Most climbers who attempt Capitol Peak鈥檚 infamous Knife Edge听either scoot across 脿 cheval or use the serrated ridgeline as a handhold as they work their feet along tiny ledges on either side. Which is all well and good, unless you鈥檙e a dog and lack opposable thumbs.
Loki, an eight-year-old Siberian husky, had an out-and-back trip over the 150-foot Knife Edge鈥攚hich features a sheer drop of at least 1,000 feet on either side鈥攂etween him and becoming the third dog in history to climb all听58听of Colorado鈥檚 14,000-foot peaks.
A nipping mid-September wind served as a reminder that snow could arrive any day in the high country, bringing an end to the brief 2019 summer climbing season. If he wasn鈥檛 successful, the completion of Loki鈥檚 (no, not听that听尝辞办颈) seven-year quest would be put on hold until the following summer.
It was a situation his owner, Ellie Briggs, knew well. She and Loki initially attempted the peak in September 2018听but bailed before making much progress due to high winds. They鈥檇 waited a full year for another try at Capitol, a mountain that made headlines in 2017 for killing five climbers in a six-week period. The prospect of another failure, of another year of frayed nerves, weighed on Briggs鈥檚 mind. Because she鈥檇 done all of her climbing alongside Loki, Capitol would be her final fourteener听as well.
鈥淚鈥檇 built up the mountain as being so treacherous听and so much worse than it really was. I had so much anxiety,鈥 says Briggs, 37. 鈥淓very time I would think about it, my heart would start racing.鈥
There鈥檚 a running joke that dogs tend to look like their owners, but one glimpse of Briggs and Loki together dispels that notion. She鈥檚 a scientist with striking red hair and a rangy climber鈥檚 build, while Loki is short and compact for a Siberian husky, weighing in at only 40 pounds. Briggs believes he was the runt of his litter, though she has no way to be certain. She adopted Loki through Craigslist after another family rescued him from a closed puppy mill in early 2012.
Within a few months of welcoming Loki into her home in Littleton, Colorado, Briggs developed health issues听that she says听made her eligible for a service dog. She entered Loki into training, unsure how he鈥檇 perform. Siberian huskies are often independent and difficult to teach, but Loki passed his two-year course with flying colors.
Neither dog nor owner had much outdoor experience when they started hiking fourteeners in 2012. Their first success came on Mount听Elbert, Colorado鈥檚 highest peak and one of the few fourteeners听with a groomed hiking trail from parking lot to summit. Briggs immediately craved more. It was obvious from an early stage that Loki, too, had a talent and passion for climbing.
鈥淭he way that Loki moves over the rock, it鈥檚 like watching a dance. He鈥檚 just very agile and very light-footed,鈥 Briggs says.

The pair ripped through as many summits as they could each summer, beginning with the easiest hikes and progressing to Class 3 scrambling. As the difficulty continued to ratchet up, beyond what most dogs are capable of, Loki simply kept on climbing. Briggs figured they鈥檇 attempt more and more challenging peaks until they reached a point where he seemed uncomfortable. It never came.
鈥淚f he doesn鈥檛 want to do something, we鈥檙e not going to do it. I鈥檓 not going to force him,鈥 Briggs says. 鈥淚 always thought as long as he wants to keep going, we鈥檒l keep going.鈥澨
They summited 57 peaks over six years, until only one remained: Capitol. After the initial aborted attempt in 2018, it took a full year for conditions, nerves, and partner schedules to align for a second try. For Briggs, that meant 12 months of worrying over whether the risk was worth the reward of getting Loki to arguably the most difficult of Colorado鈥檚 fourteener听summits.
The existence of 14,130-foot Capitol Peak is perhaps the main reason so few dogs have joined the increasingly trendy ranks of fourteener听finishers. While many of the easier fourteeners鈥攖wo-thirds of them are considered walk-ups鈥攎ight easily be confused as off-leash dog parks, the seriousness of the exposed Class 4 scrambling required on the most dangerous peaks serves as a natural barrier for four-legged companions. Few are more sustained, loose, or exposed than Capitol.
Longs Peak and privately owned Culebra Peak have also historically proven difficult for dogs, mostly due to red tape. Pets aren鈥檛 allowed on trails in Rocky Mountain National Park, which includes Longs, and the ranch that owns Culebra has changed hands several times over the past few decades. Some proprietors have limited or blocked access. Briggs and Loki climbed both legally, with permission, based on Loki鈥檚 status as a service dog.
鈥淵ou鈥檙e putting an animal at risk, and it鈥檚 a very personal decision. You鈥檝e got to be as responsible as you can in the calculated risk that you鈥檙e taking.鈥
Only three canines, including Loki, are known to have climbed all the fourteeners, compared with the nearly 2,000 human finishers who have registered their accomplishment with the . Roger Edrinn and a fuzzy white mutt named Diente came first in the 1990s, followed by Mike Gulsvig and his chow chow鈥揋erman shepherd mix, Melvin, in 2014.听
Two other dogs finished just one peak short. A golden retriever named Sawyer completed all but Capitol during his heyday in the 2000s.听Dylan, an off-white mixed breed belonging to brothers Paul and Dan McCabe, never secured access to Culebra.听
Sawyer鈥檚 owner, Josh Aho, turned their adventures into a book, Climbing Colorado鈥檚 14ers with Sawyer. Though he retired from climbing when Sawyer passed away in 2014, Aho continues to record the history of dogs on fourteeners听on his website, . His research has found that only eight dogs have summited at least 50 fourteeners, a benchmark after which difficult scrambling becomes unavoidable.听
Six peaks require Class 4 moves: Little Bear Peak, Pyramid Peak, North Maroon Peak, Mount Wilson, Sunlight Peak, and Capitol Peak. Most dogs physically can鈥檛 handle that level of scrambling, which involves near-vertical pitches. Those that try can find themselves one slip away from certain death.听
鈥淵ou鈥檙e putting an animal at risk, and it鈥檚 a very personal decision. You鈥檝e got to be as responsible as you can in the calculated risk that you鈥檙e taking,鈥 Aho says.
As they advanced from the walk-up trails to the听more difficult peaks, Briggs and Loki honed techniques to mitigate the potential hazards. The dog鈥檚 extreme trainability also allowed Briggs to teach him skills specific to mountain climbing, including staying directly in front of her on the uphill scrambles and leaning against her body as they negotiated steep descents. They climbed on weekdays or practiced extreme alpine starts to avoid other hikers and lessen the rockfall danger, and Briggs rarely climbed challenging routes without a competent human partner to assist.听
Loki and Briggs even learned technical rope skills to belay him across dangerous sections鈥攖echniques they鈥檇 put to further use when they climbed Washington鈥檚听Mount听Rainier, again with permission from the National Park Service, in June 2019.
Briggs carried听a rope to protect Loki as he crossed Capitol鈥檚 Knife Edge during the 2019 attempt, but it proved unnecessary. She and her climbing partner, Korrena De, kept Loki sandwiched between them as they all slowly scooted across, ensuring they could grab Loki鈥檚 harness in case of a slip. Having De along for the finisher climb brought the journey full circle, because she was the one who introduced Briggs to fourteeners听back on Elbert in 2012.
Though she got choked up as she neared their final summit, Briggs didn鈥檛 allow much room for celebration until they were safely back at camp. The Knife Edge gets all the press, but the terrain between it and Capitol鈥檚 highest point also requires sustained scrambling over rock that makes a Jenga tower seem stable. It took all the knowledge and skills the pair had acquired together during their seven-year journey, plus the methodical patience inherent to seasoned climbers, to听reach the top.
Of course, the presence of a dog on Capitol attracted the attention of other hikers.
鈥淓very single person that we passed was like, 鈥楥ongratulations!鈥 They were so excited.听They were so psyched to see Loki. It was really, really heartwarming,鈥 Briggs says. 鈥淎ll the encouragement made it so much more special.鈥
With Capitol completed, Loki joins Mike Gulsvig鈥檚 Melvin as the only living canine fourteener finishers. Melvin still resides with his owner in Golden, Colorado, though at 14 years old, his peakbagging听days are behind him.
鈥淗e鈥檚 retired and enjoys Home Depot,鈥 says Gulsvig, 34. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 his adventure now.鈥
Like most people who have just achieved a major life goal, Briggs shies away from听committing to exactly what鈥檚 next. She鈥檇 like to explore some of the fourteeners听in California with Loki, though she acknowledges completing that list, which includes Class 5 routes, would be impossible for a dog. Her ultimate aspiration would be for the pair to summit Denali, an adventure she鈥檚 potentially targeting within the next two years.
鈥淚鈥檒l keep coming up with things for us to do, as long as he鈥檚 willing to climb with me,鈥 Briggs says.