The morning of May 21 was cold and clear in central Colorado鈥檚 Maroon Bells鈥揝nowmass Wilderness, just east of Aspen. Around 9 a.m., ex-Navy SEAL Josh Jespersen summited the jagged, exposed 14,130-foot Capitol Peak. Having set out on a splitboard six hours earlier, Jespersen was tired, hungry, and ready to ride down. But he paused for a moment and smiled. 鈥滻 was exhausted. But I was so pumped,鈥澨齢e says.
听
While summiting any one of听Colorado鈥檚 peaks听that top out at over 14,000 feet听in winter is an听accomplishment in and of itself, Jespersen鈥檚 tag of Capitol was more momentous: it was the culmination of an 138-day effort to skin听up and snowboard听down all 54听in the state.*听And to do it faster than anyone in history. In doing so, the unimposing 30-year-old contract security worker snagged the fastest known time record from big-mountain skier Chris Davenport. When Davenport completed the same journey in 2007, in 362 days,听he commemorated the accomplishment with a and .听Jespersen took a photo, , boarded down, drove to Denver, and hopped on a plane to the Philippines for work less than 12 hours later.听
听
鈥漑The route down Capitol] was so, so steep, but it was awesome,鈥 he says. 鈥淥nce we got back to the car, I just ate whatever candy I had, and headed back to Denver. I wish I had some whiskey.鈥
听
Jespersen鈥攚ho after high school joined the Navy, eventually becoming听a Navy SEAL鈥攎oved to Colorado in 2011 to make snow at听Eldora听mountain, 20 miles west of Boulder. It was during that winter that he discovered听splitboarding. 鈥淚 went full into it鈥擨 just loved it,鈥 he says.听Six years later, he prepared for the record attempt with the singular focus that one could expect from a former SEAL (his six years with the Navy included tours in Afghanistan and Iraq). Here he tells us how he pulled the feat off, his听scariest moments, and the conversation he had with Dav after breaking the听record.
Doing Something Notable
Jespersen does contract security work overseas during the summer, which pays him enough to support his habit of skiing full time in the winter, something he has done for the past three years.听鈥淩ather than just skiing for fun this year,鈥 he says, 鈥淚 thought I should give myself a goal to achieve. I wanted to do something noteable.鈥
Jespersen had only skied three 14ers before this year. 鈥淲hen I told all my friends out here in Colorado, they just laughed at me,鈥 he says. 鈥淎nd most of my family lives on the east coast, so when I told them about my project over the holidays, they were like, 鈥極h, cool鈥︹ They had no idea what it really meant.鈥
Becoming a Lonely Storm Chaser听
While Jespersen鈥檚 main goal was, of course, to skin and ski all the 14ers in one season, he had an another mission: to hit each peak in prime conditions. 鈥淚t isn鈥檛 possible to hit powder or corn on all of them, but I tried my best,鈥 Jespersen says. “If I wasn鈥檛 skiing, I was scouring the weather, looking at reports.”
When he first moved to Colorado, Jespersen made snow at Eldora for two years and became a self-proclaimed 鈥渟now geek.鈥 He checks Colorado鈥檚 avalanche website鈥攚hich he calls 鈥渁mazing鈥濃攕everal times a day, and is .
鈥淚 would check the weather and see, 鈥極K, it鈥檚 snowing on this mountain today,鈥 I鈥檓 going to go ski it tomorrow or the next day. There was a lot of driving all over the state.鈥 His sporadic schedule meant that most of his summits were done solo. 鈥淚 have tons of good ski buddies, but not everyone was interested in dropping everything to go out for super long days,鈥 says Jespersen. 鈥淚 skied 27 of the peaks solo, and there were eight to 10 times that people came with me but didn鈥檛 summit. So I summited and skied about 35 of them by myself.鈥
No Average Day
While Jespersen says that most summits took about six to eight hours car-to-car, there really was no typical day. Some summits, like El Diente, required knife-edge ridge scrambling, others necessitated a full day, like Crestone and Crestone Needle, which Jespersen linked together over 17 hours.
鈥淣o matter the conditions, I always made sure that I felt like I had a good grasp on things,鈥 he says. 鈥淚 didn鈥檛 push my luck that much, and if there was any doubt or worry in the back of my head, I turned around.鈥
Training on the Indian Ocean
How does one train to skin up and ski down 54听of the country鈥檚 largest mountains when you spend the whole summer working on a merchant vessel off the horn of Africa? For Jespersen,听training consisted of lunges, squats, and step ups for hours at a time in, as he say, 鈥渁 boiling metal box.鈥
鈥淩ob Shaul at came up with a blaster of a training program for me,鈥 says Jespersen. 鈥淎ll said it was about three months, and my knees felt like they were breaking halfway though. But it was exactly what I needed to get into shape for this.鈥
During one training run on the ship鈥檚 treadmill, he was sweating so much that his shoes started foaming. 鈥淚t was miserable,鈥 he says, 鈥渂ut all winter long there was never any point where my legs got tired. A lot of people who skied with me would be fine on the way up, but not the down. My legs were solid the whole time.鈥
Ice Cream, Candy, and Tang
Jespersen, who鈥檚 six feet tall听and typically weighs 180, says he ate anything and everything he could. 鈥淚 would get off the mountain, go to Whole Foods or McDonalds, and do a calorie-to-penny comparison. I was looking for the highest ratio,鈥 he says.
But one month into his attempt, after bagging nine 14ers, he had lost 15 pounds. 鈥淚 was eating 3,000 calories per day at that point, and bumped it up to 4,000, but was still losing weight.鈥 Jespersen emailed Shaul, who recommended that he up his dairy intake. Jespersen鈥檚 interpretation: ice cream. 鈥淚 ate so much,鈥 he says with a laugh. 鈥淚 would normally get vanilla and put chocolate, honey, and peanut butter on it.鈥
On the mountain, Jespersen says he avoided 鈥渢hat fancy endurance fuel stuff.鈥 Instead, he relied on the fruity drink mix Tang, blocks of cheese, and Mounds bars. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e the best to take out in the mountains鈥攖hey don鈥檛 freeze,鈥 says Jespersen of the coconut-chocolate candy. 鈥淢y aunt works for Hershey's and sent me 100 of them.鈥
Calm, Cool, Collected
Did Jespersen have any doubt that he could pull this off? 鈥淣o, not really,鈥 he says. 鈥淚 wasn鈥檛 really broadcasting my attempt鈥擨 just made a point to get out every day. There wasn鈥檛 any point when I thought I wasn鈥檛 going to make it.鈥
Despite witnessing a slide at 13,500 feet on the side of South Maroon and getting caught in such a bad storm on Tabeguache Peak that he has to re-break trail on the way out, when I ask him about what element of his journey has stuck with him the most, his answer is simple: the awe of Colorado. 鈥淚鈥檝e been skiing here for a while, but I鈥檝e never been able to see how beautiful the state truly is until this winter,鈥 he says. 鈥淚 could ski every day all winter and not come close to hitting all the lines I wanted.鈥
Chris Davenport, a New Friend
Jespersen says that a few days after he submitted Capitol, he emailed Chris Davenport to let him know. 鈥淗e鈥檚 been super cool,鈥 Jespersen says. 鈥淚 sent him a long thank you email for paving the way and providing trip reports that people like me can look at.鈥澨
鈥淚 honestly thought it would be some random dudes on skinny gear and tights who would beat the record, not a split-boarder,鈥 says Davenport. 鈥淗e played it very low-key, which I respect in this day and age. Good on him.鈥
Bridging the Gap Between Military and Mountains
Jespersen鈥檚 main objective of his record attempt was to raise awareness for his non-profit, , which he says tries to 鈥渢ake back the true meaning of Memorial Day鈥 by taking veterans on an expedition that honors fallen soldiers every year.
Military members and mountaineers might appear to have a lot in common鈥攕tubborn determination, a knack for ignoring pain, the ability to thrive in extreme conditions, a passion for exercise鈥攈owever, Jespersen says that mountaineering, in general, is not a part of the military culture. 鈥淭here are only a few of us who enjoy climbing and that type of stuff. Most veterans do not recognize outdoor recreation as something that they can dive into,鈥 he says. 鈥淭he mountains are such a great听place for vets to go when they come back from overseas. I want听more guys听to know that mountaineering is a wonderful outlet.鈥澨
*Note:听the exact听number of听14ers听in the state of Colorado is听contentious. Most recognize between 52 and 57 peaks. , or the difference in height between a peak and its closest saddle. In terms of setting speed records on Colorado's听14ers, the number depends on the听time of year and activity. For example, summer hikers听often recognize 57 peaks, while winter hikers attempt to tackle听59. Winter skiers, however, consider the total to be 54, a precedent set by Chris Davenport and, before him, Lou Dawson,听.