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The most visibly prominent peak in Colorado's front range, Longs is visible from the state's major population centers, drawing climbers in.
The most visibly prominent peak in Colorado's front range, Longs is visible from the state's major population centers, drawing climbers in. (Photo: Chris Rosenberger)

Why Colorado鈥檚 Most Dangerous Peak Is Also Its Most Appealing

Deaths, injuries, and helicopter rescues are a regular occurrence on Longs Peak, but that doesn鈥檛 stop people from trying to climb it

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(Photo: Chris Rosenberger)

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On Friday, June 3, ten听members of an unspecified U.S.听military special forces team from Longs Peak in听Colorado after suffering altitude sickness. It was the first of two helicopter rescues so far in 2016. This week, the 14,249-foot mountain . One听of 53 fourteeners in Colorado, and听the highest in Rocky Mountain National Park ,听what makes this particular summit听so dangerous?听

鈥淟ongs Peak is the most visibly prominent peak in the front range,鈥 explains 国产吃瓜黑料 contributor Ty Brookhart, who grew up in nearby Gold Hill, where he could see the mountain from his back porch. 鈥淵ou can see it from both Denver and Boulder, so much like Rainier to Seattleites, it鈥檚 something any outdoorsman wants to check off their list.鈥

Longs is the mountain on the back of Colorado鈥檚 state , and fans of classic science-fiction may remember it as the location of a 200-inch reflector telescope in two Jules Verne novels,听From the Earth to the Moon, and Around the Moon. Astronomers would have hard a hard time installing a giant听telescope on the mountain鈥檚 summit; it wasn鈥檛 successfully climbed by a white man鈥擩ohn Wesley Powell鈥攗ntil 1868; three years after the first in Verne鈥檚 series was published.听

Local Arapaho men were probably the first to climb the mountain. They used tall peaks like this one to place traps for eagles. As part of a ritual, they would hide in brush-covered pits atop mountain summits, fasting for days at a time, and bait the birds of prey to get in close using a coyote carcass. It鈥檚 saidthat using this method; the feathers were used in ceremonies and worn as decoration.听

It鈥檚 technically possible to summit Longs in a single day. But that鈥檚 going to be a day that includes 15 miles of hiking (round trip), with 5,000 feet of elevation gain. The National Park Service doesn鈥檛 consider the most popular route鈥攖he Keyhole鈥攁 hike at all, but rather a technical climb. It recommends visitors wear helmets.听

鈥淟ongs is, well, long,鈥 Brookhart says. 鈥淧eople end up exhausted, low on blood sugar, dehydrated, and sick with altitude as they approach the most difficult sections. Both the Narrows and Homestretch portions of the climb deserve respect and focus.听It鈥檚 a huge test of confidence as it鈥檚 wide, open, steep, and fully exposed to drops of 100 feet or more.鈥

This is the area where a 61-year-old man from Greeley, Colorado, slipped on ice, and fell to his death on October 2. His body had to be recovered by a long-line helicopter operation.

Climbers scramble through a section of the Narrows portion of the Keyhole route.
Climbers scramble through a section of the Narrows portion of the Keyhole route. ()

The Parks听Service won鈥檛 quote an official number of deaths, but does provide . 鈥淢any accidents on the Keyhole Route occur on the way down from the summit when fatigue or the false assumption that, 鈥業鈥檝e done the hardest part,鈥 can lead to inattention and poor decision making,鈥 it advises, going on to warn against summit fever, getting lost, slipping and falling, solo travel, shortcutting, and ever-changing weather conditions.听

鈥淏ecause it stands well above most other peaks in the area, Longs creates its own weather,鈥 says Brookhart. 鈥淚鈥檝e seen clear days turn very quickly into high winds, and very, very cold temperatures. Unlike New Hampshire鈥檚 Mount Washington, the weather here isn鈥檛 usually enough to kill you on its own, but hypothermia can lead to poor decision making can often lead to a misstep. And a misstep here kills.鈥

Contributing to changeable weather conditions is the sheer length of the hike. The NPS advises climbers to allow 12-plus听hours to complete the hike, which typically means hitting the trailhead around 2 or 3 in the morning. The local rule of thumb suggests that if you haven鈥檛 summited by 10 a.m.., you should turn around.听

It takes so long because the hike up to the Keyhole portion of the climb is five miles long, and from there you鈥檒l be walking and climbing over boulders, at times completing Class 3听scrambles.听

"The Keyhole route is NOT a hike!" Warns the NPS. This is a section of the route climbers must traverse.
"The Keyhole route is NOT a hike!" Warns the NPS. This is a section of the route climbers must traverse. ()

鈥淎fter you go through the boulder field, and through the keyhole, you step out onto a narrow series of off-camber ledges running parallel to each other,鈥 says Brookhart, who鈥檚 climbed the mountain several times. 鈥淭his route traverses the very steep west side of the peak, toward the Homestretch, and the area available for your feet ranges from zero to 18 inches. Worse, some apparent routes disappear and cause climbers to backtrack.鈥澨

Backtracking causes its own problems on the narrow route. With up to 15,000 climbers attempting Longs each summer, overcrowding on the trail is a real issue. 鈥淢eeting another climber here is akin to meeting another vehicle on a one-lane mountain road with no guard rail,鈥 says Brookhart. 鈥淎ny mistake here in wet, snowy, or icy conditions is severe, and as history has shown, often deadly.鈥澨

鈥淚鈥檝e seen several experienced climbers stopped in the Narrows crying, and shivering as they get exposed to the west side鈥檚 winds,鈥 Brookhart says. 鈥淭hey were afraid to go further, but watched as over-zealous neophytes motored past them, unaware or apathetic to the risks.鈥

The success rate for the Keyhole route up Longs Peak? . Most people attempting the climb are smart enough to turn back when they realize they can鈥檛 complete it. But, like Mount Washington on the east coast, it seems like the real killer at Longs isn鈥檛 the climb itself, or even the often extreme weather. Instead, it鈥檚 the relative accessibility of the peak, combined with its fame, that draws in thousands of climbers who are often ignorant of the risk, or who just ignore it.听

鈥淭he high elevation may affect your judgment,鈥 states the NPS鈥 official Keyhole route brochure. 鈥淐areful descent is the best treatment.鈥

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