The mental wilderness, the mindful wilderness, the landscape-meets-headspace wilderness that I鈥檝e been exploring for two decades, always alone, always without a map, always motivated by this same curiosity, part fear and part excitement鈥攈ere I am again. A subalpine basin in the backcountry of Colorado鈥檚 Elk Mountains this time, a rugged spot accessed by rugged bushwhack. It鈥檚 the first evening of a late-spring weekend that I鈥檒l spend, for want of a better description, climbing Mount Nothing.
My bivy sack is spread out beside a shallow tarn, the teal surface of the water rippling with leaping trout that I do not intend to catch. Hanging in a stunted spruce, my pathetic kitchen bag (peanut butter, tortillas, instant coffee, gas-station sugar packets) inspires zero elaborate dinner ideas. I have no camera, no phone, no watch, no thrilling spy novel to read, no blank journal to fill with doodles and dreams and distractions. Half a dozen beautifully craggy peaks surround my minimalist camp, but despite the enticement, I will scramble precisely none of them tomorrow at dawn.
If there鈥檚 a plan, it鈥檚 an anti-plan. Sit patiently on this thin bedroll, rocks and roots digging into my butt, faint stars pricking the purple sky above. Challenge myself with the boredom, discomfort, and basic humming weirdness of an unattempted route on Mount Nothing. Gaze out from that rarely visited summit. See what there is to see.
My life of outdoor adventure鈥攅xperimenting with it, creatively tinkering with it鈥攂egan on the Long Trail, a 272-mile wilderness footpath that traces the spine of Vermont鈥檚 Green Mountains. I through-hiked it one summer, at 16, as a novice backpacker. Relentless rain, mud to the armpits, blistering blisters, ravenous mosquitoes, dismal lows and the infrequent, enlivening high鈥攊t was an education and a transformation, a proper rite of passage. After three weeks, I emerged from the tunnel of foliage, dead on my feet and utterly elated.
To borrow a term from the philosophers, that formative trek was purposive: a linear trail, A to B to C, and your task, young lad, is to reach Z, to sweat and swear and ultimately stand triumphant at alphabet鈥檚 end. Returning to school down in the Champlain Valley of western Vermont felt flat by comparison, and I incorrectly attributed the malaise to the absence of any raw wilderness in my daily existence. Another couple of years elapsed鈥攖ime spent crisscrossing New England, ticking off traditional objectives on skis and bicycles, in kayaks and cramponed boots鈥攂efore I realized that the actual source of my intoxication and addiction was clarity of focus, disciplined commitment to a well-defined goal.
During the winter of my senior year in high school, I grew concerned that in concentrating exclusively on the linear, goal-directed model of adventure, I was missing out on other variations of Earth and Self. To break loose from habit, I devised a quirky project. On a single-digit weekend in January, equipped with only a tarp, a foam pad, and an enormously puffy sleeping bag, I tromped into the thickety forest behind a neighbor鈥檚 house and set up shop on the plate of a frozen creek, then listened for 50-plus hours to the gurling, groaning, moaning, muttering, maddening, crazy-making water below the ice. Whoa. Is that my inner dialogue or the damn creek that won鈥檛 quit yammering? In either case, can somebody please lower the volume?
While the rigors of my project were profound (hands and toes burning with cold, belly begging for anything at all to eat), the psychological test was twice as severe. Trying to keep hold of the familiar human realm of language and logic, I studied the fine-print legalese of a Sugarbush ski ticket attached to my jacket鈥檚 zipper. When that ran its course, I obsessively inventoried pocket lint. Finally, I rolled a giant snowball and marched untold miles around it. It was a second rite of passage: the purposive, linear trail, A to B to C, had morphed into a circular path leading nowhere. This was my first pilgrimage to Mount Nothing.
Nowhere鈥攇oing there, arriving there鈥攊s tough. Ditto for deliberately undermining the will: eschewing the agendas, schemes, designs, and framing devices (run the rapid! shred the gnar! snap the photo! upload the photo! establish the FKT!) that defend us against the existential ass-whupping of nature鈥檚 pure meaninglessness. Perhaps in this utilitarian, achievement-oriented culture of ours鈥攐ne that celebrates Mount Something but seldom acknowledges its silent, shadowy twin鈥攋ust loafing in the mental wilderness, the mindful wilderness, can be a worthy expedition. Maybe we ought to consider alternating the active, sporty excursions (I still love them dearly) with more contemplative outings. It isn鈥檛 my place to predict what exactly we鈥檒l gain by embracing aimlessness. I鈥檒l only suggest that once freed from the confines of our ambitions, the world has a tendency to grow, to expand. And so do we.
Mental, mindful. Those terms smack of pop psychology; nevertheless they鈥檙e useful. The former, to me, connotes a hog-tying, goose-chasing, gerbil-wheel-spinning brain, fidgety and neurotic, poking and poking and poking at the bonfire. The latter connotes Buddha-like peace鈥攁 calm, empty consciousness able to receive the present moment鈥檚 infinite gifts, whether that鈥檚 birdsong, a racing cloud, a pebble鈥檚 smoothness, a spiderweb鈥檚 silvery flash of dew, or the sudden scent of pine pitch. Typically, we conceive of these modes as polar opposites, but I suspect they are in fact two sides of the same coin鈥攏ay, of the same mountain. In my experience, the mental isn鈥檛 a barrier to overcome, beyond which awaits the bliss of the mindful. The climb involves both, and it鈥檚 their interaction that generates a fascinating adventure.
So here I am again. Sitting by a tarn, surrounded by craggy peaks, vacillating between WTF-confusion (a gang of buddies and an epic quest sure would be a lot more fun than this) and OMG-gratitude (praise be to the fading light, the glowing chartreuse lichen, the shivery breeze, the stupendous glory of all!). Even after these many years of prodding at Earth and Self, repeatedly braving the steep slopes and narrow ridges of Mount Nothing, nights remain hard for me, intense with doubts and cravings. What I鈥檇 give for the safety blanket of purpose, a telescope and a star chart, a straightforward reason for easing onto my back, reclining into the loneliness and the eerie quiet. The nights are best, though, too. That lonely quiet now a vast and mysterious unknown, deserving of my attention. Lying supine. Flying through the deep black gaps inside constellations and inside my own twinkly thoughts. Seeing what there is to see.