Max LeNail was five minutes away from the end of his run when the hail storm started. He had already summited the South Fortuna peak in San Diego, California鈥檚 Mission Trails Park, a relatively easy trail run that was part of his training for the Dipsea Race in the Marin Headlands north of San Francisco.

When the hail came, it was unlike any hail storm the San Diego region had ever seen. LeNail kept going, following the San Diego River Crossing trail, which he thought would lead him back to his warm and dry car in the parking lot. But instead, he came across a rushing river and no bridge.

No one knows exactly what happened next.

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LeNail鈥檚 GPS data from his Garmin shows that he hesitated at the side of the river, then decided to cross it, likely wading into what is usually a very small stream in the summer, but what was swollen that January morning in 2021.

The next day, LeNail was found dead further downstream. He was almost 22, about to graduate from Brown University, with a premed concentration and plans to become a doctor.

His death was a tragedy for everyone who knew him鈥攑arents, friends, outdoor enthusiasts, even strangers across the San Diego region. It also led to his family taking immediate action to fix a problem that could have saved his life: building a bridge across the river. Two years later, they鈥檙e still fighting for that bridge.

鈥淗e Found Joy in Everything鈥�

Max LeNail鈥檚 father, Ben LeNail, says his son was always athletic. He played soccer, ultimate frisbee, and was a great runner, cyclist. He also became a world-class rock climber during high school and college. One of his closest friends, Shannon Murphy, joined Max LeNail on many of his rock climbing expeditions, and says that he had a very rare combination of being focused and determined about a challenge, but never intense.

鈥淗e found joy in everything, even when it was something that he clearly cared about achieving, But he never let that take over the joy of it, which I think was one of the really beautiful things about climbing with him,鈥� she says.

LeNail would train intensely, going to sleep early and waking up early and doing yoga and eating right, she says. 鈥淏ut when we were actually climbing and he would fall, he didn’t care,鈥� she says. 鈥淗e was just like, 鈥榦h, that was really fun.鈥欌��

LeNail was studying at Brown in 2019 when COVID struck and the campus closed. He and a group of friends made an adventure pod, where they lived in different outdoor meccas, from Lake Tahoe, California, to Bend, Oregon, and took remote classes and spent their free time outdoors. They had just relocated to San Diego and LeNail discovered Mission Trails Regional Park, an 8,000-acre urban park with more than 60 miles of trails, perfect for his ultra training.

When Trails Turn into Rivers

On Jan. 29, 2021, Max started his run around 10:30 A.M., and he ran alone, something very common in the well-traveled Mission Trails. By 12:05 P.M., he was at the top of the 1,100-foot South Fortuna Mountain and recorded a video on his phone.

鈥淚t鈥檚 a moody day,鈥� he said, showing the gathering clouds. 鈥淗opefully it鈥檚 not too cold.鈥�

By late afternoon, Max LeNail鈥檚 roommates started worrying because he wasn’t home. They called him and got no answer. Then they drove to Mission Trails, saw his car in the parking lot, and instantly knew something bad had happened. They called the police, who sent a helicopter, but by that time it was 7 P.M. and dark. The police sent a helicopter with night vision, but couldn鈥檛 find him.

Max LeNail鈥檚 roommates called his parents, and Ben LeNail says they stayed up all night organizing a search and rescue.

鈥淚t went totally viral. Boy Scouts, trail runners, mountain bikers, churches, volunteers of all kinds, and 800 people showed up,鈥� Max鈥檚 father Ben LeNail says. Max鈥檚 mother Laurie Yoler traveled from their home in Palo Alto to San Diego to help direct the search.

Max鈥檚 body was found at noon the next day. The autopsy showed he didn’t have any trauma, so it’s unlikely that he hit his head, but was instead likely sucked in a current in the river and possibly suffered , Ben LeNail says.

When Grief Turns into Action

鈥淲e’re absolutely petrified with grief. Within a day or two, we thought this could totally destroy us, and we could be broken forever,鈥� Ben LeNail says about the loss of his son. 鈥淲e could become ghosts, or we can decide not to be like that. We were very messed up, but quickly we thought, we want to be outward facing instead of people who turn inward and shut down and become completely sealed. We want to be in the world and be turned towards others.鈥�

Within a day, the LeNails knew what they wanted to do. They were hearing from hundreds of people who had the same question.

鈥淓verybody said, 鈥榠t’s insane, why isn’t there a bridge there?鈥� It is one of the most popular trails in the park, and it’s intersected by the river,鈥� Ben LeNail says. 鈥淲hy are people exposed to this danger? There absolutely should be a bridge there.鈥�

And so, they decided to build a bridge over the river and name it after Max.

Research led them to a frustrating discovery: the proposal for a pedestrian bridge at the place where their son died had been part of the Mission Trails master plan for a decade.

鈥淭here was total apathy in terms of, 鈥榳e don’t have enough money,鈥欌�� he says. 鈥淎nd frankly, I think they needed the impetus of a death, an accident, to really mobilize people and say, 鈥榣ook, we need this bridge, and we need it sooner than later.鈥欌��

A depth marker now stands in the middle of the river to show potential crossers how high the water is. But even in the winter, when the water can be four or five feet high, people cross. Many will take off their socks and shoes and wade through on a rocky, slippery spot close by.

鈥淭here was always a sense that people will cross, people will slip, and people will struggle, but nobody has come to any serious harm thus far, and we [the park administration] can kind of drag it along a little bit longer,鈥� Ben LeNail says. 鈥淢ax’s death was the impetus, and our absolutely fierce advocacy that we are not going to let go. We are going to be there advocating for the bridge and in their faces and would not drop it.鈥�

Building Bridges

Within a few weeks, the LeNails reached out to elected officials and the . Everyone agreed a bridge should finally be built. But now, it鈥檚 been more than two years after Max LeNail鈥檚 death and construction has not begun.

The target is to finish the bridge and hold an inauguration for it in 2024. But there鈥檚 a long way to go to get there.

LeNail says they are still wading through the city bureaucracy to get the required surveys and permits done. They still have to do environmental impact studies to be sure the ground is secure and that wildlife won鈥檛 be disturbed. Once construction begins, it could only take three months to build the bridge.

San Diego City Councilmember Raul Campillo represents the area and chairs the Mission Trails Regional Park task force, and he says there is always a list of projects in the park that need to be completed, and never enough money to do all of them.

鈥淪o the bridge had not been built, but things like the visitor center had been built, trail preservation had been built, markers for hikers, lots of different things like that had been built, but the bridge itself had not,鈥� he says. 鈥淚t is one of the higher-priced items, and it requires a lot of engineering, permitting, scientific research, and analysis. And so up to that point, it had just not been prioritized like things that many other hikers and trail goers use in the park on a daily basis. I would say that we’re well within a standard deviation of time to build this type of project,鈥� he says.

Campillo says it鈥檚 not unusual for a project like this鈥攁 bridge over a river in an environmentally sensitive area鈥攖o take this long.

Many San Diegans, including Jennifer Morrissey,听 executive director of the Mission Trails Regional Park Foundation, are blown away by the fact that the LeNails have dedicated themselves to something so fully听 during a time of unimaginable grief.

鈥淭hey’ve channeled this tragic event into positive action, building a bridge in Max’s memory that can provide safe passage for park users for generations to come,鈥� Morrissey says.

In early 2023, the park built a bench near the place where Max died with his name emblazoned on the front.

鈥淭his is a way for people to go and reflect and also where they can see the project, the process of construction when it’s happening,鈥� Morrissey says. 鈥淎nd then eventually one could sit on Max’s bench and be looking at the bridge.鈥�

In July, LeNail visited San Diego again to put pressure on officials. He says he鈥檚 extremely persistent, a self-described 鈥減it bull,鈥� meaning there鈥檚 no way he鈥檚 going to allow the bridge to not be built. He spends time every week, working on this project that is outside his normal job as a biotech consultant, and every day he thinks about his son and works to get the project done in his honor.

鈥淗e’d be pleasantly surprised, but I think he would be enchanted,鈥� Ben LeNail says of what Max would think about this work. 鈥淗e would love to have generations of athletes and outdoors people use the bridge.鈥�

The bridge will be made of prefabricated steel, and so it will be built to last. That means in 100 years, people will walk on the bridge and remember Max, LeNail says.

.听

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From our partners at Backpacker Magazine.

San Diego might be famous for its sunny climate, surf scene, and fish tacos, but it’s also a perfect home base for exploring a variety of classic Southern California hikes. From short jaunts overlooking the Pacific to long backpacking trips through the mountains, America’s Finest City is home to some of the state’s best trails.

Easy Hikes

Torrey Pines Beach Trail

Distance: 2.3 miles
Elevation Gain: 364 feet
Difficulty: Easy
Trail Type: Loop

If you鈥檙e looking for a mild but gratifying beach hike, the Torrey Pines Beach Trail is a terrific pick. Located near Del Mar, this hike follows the coast for a little over a mile. You鈥檒l also hike past the rarest pine tree in the United States, the Torrey pine. As a popular hike, users should expect to see other visitors to this trail. Hike early in the morning to avoid too much exposure and snag a coveted free parking spot right next to the $15-25 trailhead lot. If you want to extend your hike, there are plenty of hikes in the .

Los Pe帽asquitos Canyon Trail

Distance: 6.8 miles
Elevation Gain: 157 feet
Difficulty: Easy
Trail Type: Loop

Hikers who are looking to take a break from the coastline should check out the desert views on Los Pe帽asquitos Canyon Trail. Just 30 minutes north of downtown San Diego, this trail takes hikers down a mellow path with a section leading to a waterfall. It鈥檚 kid-friendly, pet-friendly, and relatively manageable to people of a variety of ability levels. On average, the hike takes about 3 hours to complete. It features just 157 feet of elevation gain over nearly 7 miles鈥攑erfect for hikers who prefer flat but beautiful routes.

Sunset Cliffs Trail

Distance: 2.4 miles
Elevation Gain: 95 feet
Difficulty: Easy
Trail Type: Out and Back

Sunset Cliffs makes for a casual date night hike. This 2.4-mile out-and-back features ocean views as it traces outcroppings along the coast. Like many of the hikes in this section, it鈥檚 relatively flat, so you can bring a friend (or a date) without worrying about their hiking experience. During your journey, you can even make your way down to the local tide pools to explore the ocean; bonus points if you can spot any starfish and sea urchins.

Borrego Palm Canyon

Distance: 3.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 450 feet
Difficulty: Easy
Trail Type: Loop

There鈥檚 a solid argument to make that Borrego Palm Canyon in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is one of San Diego鈥檚 most overlooked hikes. Just 90 minutes from the city, this easy loop ascends 450 feet to a small shaded area where adventurers can relax or soak in the desert and rocky vistas. Spring hikers can find a perennial stream and wildflowers throughout the canyon. Although the manageable terrain invites hikers of all levels, new hikers sometimes have trouble navigating through the canyon. Be sure to bring a map or a navigation-savvy hiker along.

Annie鈥檚 Canyon

Distance: 1.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 196 feet
Difficulty: Easy
Trail Type: Loop

Those who are looking for an easygoing hike in the San Diego area will find a lot to love in Annie鈥檚 Canyon. This 1.5-mile hike, just 30 minutes away from downtown San Diego, is free, but not recommended for claustrophobic hikers. Climb ladders up and down to sandy washes and narrow, steep-walled slot canyons. This is a family-friendly hike, and dogs are permitted in the canyon. A big plus that it’s just a couple minutes drive from the ocean, so you can take a refreshing dip after your hike.

Tijuana Estuary

Distance: 4.6 miles
Elevation Gain: 45 feet
Difficulty: Easy
Trail Type: Out and Back

The Tijuana River County Open Space Preserve is a wetland habitat that鈥檚 home to the American avocet (a large wading bird with a pink neck and blue legs), beavers, and unforgettable recreational opportunities. The Tijuana Estuary hike is a 4.6-mile walk that allows visitors to see plenty of wildlife from a relatively easy trail. Located near Imperial Beach, the trail is open year-round to hikers, bikers, and explorers. And due to the flat nature of the trail, most hikers are able to complete the whole trail in about an hour and a half.

Point Loma Tide Pools and Coastal Trail

Distance: 1 mile
Elevation Gain: 121 feet
Difficulty: Easy
Trail Type: Out and Back

This 1-mile trek takes adventurers down the coast of the ocean where they can explore the tideline for seaweed, shore crabs, and snails. It鈥檚 dog-friendly, swimming friendly, and made for those who love to explore tide pools. Downside: There鈥檚 a $15 parking fee.

Moderately Challenging Hikes

Cowles Mountain

Distance: 3 miles
Elevation Gain: 908 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Trail Type: Out and Back

If you like to be the highest (literally) person around, you鈥檒l appreciate . This 3-mile trek to a 1,593-foot summit gives hikers 360-degree views of the surrounding hills and cityscape. This is also the highest peak in San Diego, making it a coveted bucket-list destination for locals. Due to the exposure, this hike is best first thing in the morning.

Cedar Creek Falls Trail

Distance: 5.6 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,049 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Trail Type: Out and Back

Cool off at one of San Diego鈥檚 most popular swimming holes by tackling the Cedar Creek Falls Trail. Head 50 minutes east of San Diego to make it to the trailhead, where you鈥檒l hike through a sandy wash, before crossing a small stream, and making your way up the canyon. The Cedar Creek Falls Trail is a relatively challenging route, leading hikers 5.6 miles through rocky terrain. As you make your way towards the popular swimming hole, you鈥檒l get views of the San Diego River Gorge. Hiking the Cedar Creek Falls Trail requires a permit ($10), which you can secure upon your entrance. When you arrive at the waterfalls, you鈥檒l get the chance to admire the 75-foot cliffs while going for a dip.

Potato Chip Rock (Mt. Woodson)

Distance: 7.3 miles
Elevation Gain: 2,119 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Trail Type: Out and Back

Named after a thin rock feature that resembles a potato chip, is one of San Diego鈥檚 most Instagrammed spots. You鈥檒l have some company: Tourists come from everywhere to stand on top of this peculiar feature. It鈥檚 just 35 minutes outside of San Diego, located in the town of Poway, but it requires a bit of physical exertion. The trail features some switchbacks and there鈥檚 no shade along the way, which makes it a good morning or winter hike. This is also a popular bouldering hike since the trail is littered with big rocks. During weekends and holidays, parking costs $10.

Double Peak Trail via Discovery Lake

Distance: 4 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,036 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Trail Type: Loop

Situated in San Marcos, California, the Double Peak Trail packs a waterside stroll and an easy summit into 4 short miles. Near the bottom, hikers will make their way past ducks swimming in Discovery Lake before navigating their way through a neighborhood, then climbing a moderate 1,000 feet to the summit. The trail is wide, and it features a number of spectacular vistas of both the city and the coast. The top of the hike offers picnic tables and a telescope for visitors to use. The average hiker should expect to take about 2 hours on this trail. Dogs are permitted, making it a great hike for furry friends.

Iron Mountain

Distance: 5.9 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,125 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Trail Type: Out and Back

San Diego locals use as a training peak for big adventures. It鈥檚 also a secret spot for springtime wildflowers, which typically bloom in March and April. Located just 35 minutes from San Diego, Iron Mountain is an easily accessible adventure for anyone who needs a good workout. Rock lovers will be quick to notice the granite boulders across the mountain. Hikers who tackle this peak will make their way through a grove of oak trees and up a gradual dirt path, taking in views of the valley and a series of scenic cliffs as they go. The trail is popular, well-marked, and looks down on expansive views of the Del Cerro Reservoir.

Eagle Rock via the PCT

Distance: 6.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 836 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Trail Type: Out and Back

Eagle Rock is one of the most well-known spots along the Pacific Crest Trail due to a peculiar rock formation shaped like, you guessed it, an eagle. This rock formation is completely natural. To make it there, you鈥檒l follow a seasonal brook through a grove of oak trees, prior to climbing to the feature itself. You鈥檒l also experience the extreme exposure of the desert as you climb to this iconic feature. Aside from Eagle Rock鈥檚 patriotic features, it鈥檚 also a popular hike because it鈥檚 both pet and family-friendly. This trail is best tackled in the Spring, Fall, or Winter. Hikers in the San Diego area can drive 1.5 hours to Warner Springs, where the 6.2-mile trail climbs a gentle 836-feet prior to taking them to the eagle. The average hiker should put aside about 3 hours to complete the trek through oak woodlands and granite outcroppings.

Three Sisters Falls

Distance: 4.1 miles
Elevation Gain: 984 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Trail Type: Out and Back

The Three Sisters Falls hike is known for both its sheer beauty and its deadly features. In fact, this hike is often underestimated, leading to about one death per year. Due to the trail鈥檚 45-degree descents, boulder fields, and slippery conditions, this trail can be quite challenging. But it鈥檚 worth it. These three cascading waterfalls give hikers stunning vistas and a place to cool off on a warm day. This 4.1-mile hike is a moderately challenging trail near Julian, California that takes adventurers to three waterfalls, measuring about 30 feet, 30 feet, and 150 feet in height. But, if you鈥檙e hoping to see the waterfalls in all their majesty, this hike is best tackled in the early spring time since the waterfalls can dry out in the summer. Dogs are welcome in this region.

Challenging Hikes

Cuyamaca Peak via Azalea Glen Loop

Distance: 7.7 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,833 feet
Difficulty: Hard
Trail Type: Loop

If you鈥檙e a peak bagger, you have to check out Cuyamaca Peak. Cuyamaca Peak is San Diego county鈥檚 second tallest peak, measuring 6,512-feet.. the 7.7-mile hike climbs 1,833 feet through a conifer forest to get to the top. On clear days, you can expect to see features that are 100 miles away like the Coronado Islands in Mexico. The Azalea Glen Loop is straightforward and easy to follow, which makes it a great hike for strong beginners. You鈥檒l make your way through an old burn area before climbing up to 360-degree views. There鈥檚 no better way to see San Diego than from this summit. On average, it takes hikers somewhere between 3 to 4 hours to complete. But be sure to note that there is a parking fee by vehicle, and the hike is not pet friendly. But those who are hoping to find a weekend getaway can arrange camping nearby.

El Cajon Mountain

Distance: 11.1 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,579 feet
Difficulty: Hard
Trail Type: Out and Back

One of the toughest trails that you鈥檒l find near San Diego is the . This out-and-back offers 3,579-feet of elevation gain and views of everything from Palm Springs to Mexico, including the San Diego skyline. It also takes hikers past mines, a glimmering lake, through loose gravel, and over a ridgeline. Generally considered the hardest hike in San Diego, this trail is often hot, exposed, and challenging to even the fittest hikers. If that sounds like you, however, it鈥檚 a great hike to grab a half-day respite from the city.

Big Laguna Mountain Loop

Distance: 10.3 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,167 feet
Difficulty: Hard
Trail Type: Loop

Interested in hitting into the PCT for a day? Head to the Big Laguna Mountain Loop Trail. This trail overlaps with the PCT and follows the eastern crest of the Laguna Mountains, mixing alpine views with jaunts into oak and pine forest.. Best of all, it鈥檚 just an hour drive from the city. Over the course of the 10.3-mile loop, hikers can expect to climb 1,167-feet; while long, it鈥檚 not as rugged or steep as it could be. It鈥檚 also accessible year-round, which can make it a convenient pick for avid adventurers.

Boucher Trail and Palomar Mountain Loop

Distance: 10.1 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,519 feet
Difficulty: Hard
Trail Type: Loop

Interested in trading San Diego鈥檚 scenery for conifer trees, luscious meadows, and vibrant plants? If so, the Boucher Trail and Palomar Mountain Loop is for you. An hour and a half drive northeast of San Diego is the Boucher Trail and Palomar Mountain Loop. This 10.1-mile trail is a difficult trek that takes hikers up to 360-degree views of California, Mexico, and the coast. As you walk you鈥檒l travel through the trail鈥檚 pine forests, you鈥檒l pass a fire tower that you can climb up to views of the nearby peaks and valleys. A highlight for most hikers, the fire tower is both a historical landmark, and an opportunity to see San Diego from up high. There鈥檚 a $10 parking fee in the state park, but it鈥檚 well worth it. Hikers should expect to take 4.5 hours to complete this hike.

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Eddie鈥檚 hazel eyes lit up when he saw the sign: 鈥淒id you know this place was here?鈥� Though we鈥檇 only been walking for an hour from our City Heights home to San Diego鈥檚 Hillcrest neighborhood, apparently, my husband already needed espresso. I鈥檇 been hoping we could survive with less on this meander. But my sons, Kai and Nikko, hiked their masks over their noses and raced into the all-white caf茅. I stood outside with our backpacks and our dog (a designer mutt named Stella) as my family procured speed-inducing treats. Could we actually slow down during this week of walking San Diego? After I declined pastries festooned with sparkles, little Nikko pushed his glasses higher on his face and said, 鈥淲e still have like nine miles to go today.鈥澨�

鈥淚 don鈥檛 want to go fast,鈥� I replied.听

Now that life had returned to its pre-pandemic haste, I鈥檇 been longing for slowness. We鈥檇 relocated to San Diego from Santa Cruz in December to be closer to family, and I found myself driving everywhere, chauffeuring my nine- and 13-year-old boys to soccer, school, and music lessons. Though we joked that in San Diego everything was 15 minutes away, the distances felt vast, so many single-story concrete corners we鈥檇 had to traverse to reach sand or dried canyonlands. How would we ever connect with this place if we were always driving it?

I thought I鈥檇 found my answer in a podcast interview with writer, scientist, and enrolled member of the Citizen Potawatomi Nation Robin Wall Kimmerer. She explained that we were all once native to a place, and to return to this ecological connection to home, we must acquaint ourselves with the living world around us. So, I decided that my clan would do just that. We鈥檇 walk from our mid-city house to the posh seaside village of La Jolla, and back鈥�50 miles in total鈥攐ver five days. They boys helped craft the itinerary to include hotels with hot tubs and comfy beds. Eddie mapped out all the restaurants he wanted to try along the way. I made no plans other than to search for dandelions in the sidewalk鈥檚 cracks.听

On that first day, as we descended past the Mission Hills mansions perched over the glittering bay, Eddie admired the engineering feat of building a bayfront airport right in the middle of downtown. The boys marveled over a soccer pitch in a backyard. Stella sniffed at a jasmine bush manicured into an archway.听

But I felt adrift. How hard we worked to manipulate our living world to our benefit, and yet, how little connection I truly had鈥擨 didn鈥檛 know the names or characteristics of most of the plants and animals we saw as we marched into Old Town; I didn鈥檛 know the moods of the tides, the fog, the wind pressing us toward our destination for the night, Paradise Point Resort on Mission Bay.听

The next morning, as we migrated from Mission Bay to Pacific Beach, we started using Kai鈥檚 to identify the plants and animals around us by taking a photo of the species.听And though it said Stella (who is a poodle/retriever/lab mix) was an alpaca, we began to shakily acquaint ourselves with our environment. Like so many of us here in California, most of the palms, jacaranda, and hibiscus were nonnative, and these SoCal icons also housed other immigrants like the green parrots squawking overhead. So many species were like us, making a home in lands that aren鈥檛 ours. Yet they had found a way to thrive here. Could I as well?听

Hiking from Bird Rock (an affluent hillside beach community) to La Jolla, a dogwalker pointed us toward a bike and walking path we鈥檇 never noticed. On the trail, the boys found a tire swing, fairy houses, and a beehive encircled by California poppies, our state flower. 鈥淭hese can grow anywhere,鈥� Kai told us. Just like my boys. They were resilient as this landscape鈥攚e plopped them in a new city, right in the middle of a pandemic, and they found ways to connect with their environment like Mexican elderberry, which wasn鈥檛 exactly from this trail, but added nutrients to the soil and sustenance to other species.听

As I iced my feet on the hotel balcony that night, I listened to the boys recounting our success of walking so far in just two days. I wondered how much they鈥檇 noticed about the natural world around us. Because the farther I wandered, the less I understood鈥攍ike how did the Kumeyaay, San Diego鈥檚 first people, access water in their ancestral homelands? Did they live, like we do, on high ground so that when the torrential rains blew through, flooding the valleys, their homes were safe? And how had they survived the annual fires that gobbled up the dry brush on the rolling hills? What did they eat? What native plants were available to them in this coastal desert? Because for us, it was so easy to just order some sushi to be delivered to our room. How had we become so different than this land鈥檚 ancestors? And how might we regain some of that wisdom?

We took a different route back home: trekking down the beach by UC San Diego to a La Jolla waterfront trail, passing giant houses adorned with Teslas, surf schools, and botox spas to reach the flatlands of Pacific Beach,听where we recharged at a local seafood shop that imported most of the fish from afar. Looking at all these paved roads and multi-unit houses with tiny garden plots out front, the trucks lugging kayaks, the cyclists zooming by, I realized that we all had ways of connecting with the land beneath us, even if it was for fun instead of survival. Was just the desire to integrate the natural world around me a good enough start?听

That night, a loud crack made us hobble out of bed and onto our deck at Bahia Hotel. The nightly fireworks show exploded over Mission Bay. The palms clapped in the breeze. Seagulls shrieked over someone鈥檚 bonfire leftovers. The almost full moon rose over the faraway peaks to the east, reflecting in the ripples on the water. I took a deep inhale, noticing the slight saltiness in the air. Then an exhale, releasing my oxygen. My feet throbbed. I couldn鈥檛 stand for long. This walk had forced me to slow down and appreciate what it means to be walking this land. We still had another ten miles to go, but I knew that as we walked along the San Diego River and up that big Texas Street hill, stopping for a rest at one of North Park鈥檚 bustling breweries, I鈥檇 be trying my best to get to know the ground under my feet and maybe learning something about myself in the process.

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Not long ago, the notion of flying on a private plane meant earning a seven-figure income and chartering a Gulfstream V or an equally elite aircraft. But thanks to a growing number of players shaking up the noncommercial sector of the aviation industry over the past few years, travelers have more ways than ever to enjoy the perks of private flights without the historically prohibitive price tag.

Driven by crowdsourcing technology and the Uber-like on-demand model, operators offering semiprivate charters, membership-based services, and smaller carriers that utilize regional airports have helped democratize a mode of travel once reserved for the jet-setting crowd. Instead of having a connection to an individual or a business that owns a private plane, or shelling out for a broker to hook you up with one, these companies allow you to book your flight online just like you would for a commercial one鈥攁nd trust you鈥檙e paying a fair price.

They are all catering to a common customer: passengers weary of endless commercial-airline fees, long security lines, packed airports, and overbooked planes. Indeed, it鈥檚 hard to understate the sweet glory of arriving at a small regional or private airport about 30 minutes before takeoff, breezing through a metal detector in seconds, being welcomed aboard with at most a few dozen鈥攊nstead of a few hundred鈥攐thers, with nary a single TSA pat-down or seat back slammed into your face. For the premium baked into ticket prices, most of these operators offer other perks, too, including seat assignments, refreshments, and free baggage transport (JSX, a Dallas-based operator with a network of short-haul routes across Texas and the West, charges nothing for guests鈥� surfboards, skis, snowboards, and golf clubs).

Another advantage of this type of air travel? Utilizing the vast network of regional airports across the U.S. that enable easier access to remote areas, which commercial routes are less likely to service or which may have been cut during the pandemic. 鈥淭here are only a few hundred major airports in the country, whereas there are a few thousand public-use airports that are accessible via private charter,鈥� says William Herp, CEO of , an on-demand operator based in Massachusetts. 鈥淲e鈥檝e had a lot of customers flying to places that are hours away from the nearest airline airport in Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, and all across the United States and Canada, to get to their vacation or activity sooner than if they flew to an airline airport and drove hours and hours.鈥�

You can certainly expect to pay more for this kind of experience, yet how much more varies. For smaller operators with established routes, prices can be comparable to a premium-economy-class ticket (though sometimes significantly more). On-demand charter models might charge more than double that of commercial business class. However, passengers seem more amenable than ever to paying higher prices for a better (and potentially safer) experience. During the pandemic, many of these operators reported a sizable uptick in bookings from travelers seeking more socially distanced alternatives to commercial airlines, as well as easy access to outdoor destinations.

But knowing where to start can be overwhelming for the uninitiated. There are a wide range of options on the market, and they鈥檙e not all legit. (The now defunct JetSmarter, a membership-based player that touted itself as the Uber of private flying, was to members for failing to deliver promised services.)

We鈥檝e broken down different options in the space that will likely appeal to outdoor-minded people. Though there are several other options, including operators that cater to high-net-worth clientele, with models based on memberships, prepaid jet cards, and fractional ownership, the following categories鈥攐n-demand charters and public charters鈥攁re best suited for recreational travelers for their price points and the adventure destinations they serve. A word of warning: once you get a taste for this kind of travel, you may never want to wheel that rollaboard suitcase onto a commercial airliner again.

On-Demand Charters

Traditionally, travelers looking to book a private charter had to go through charter brokers, who negotiate the price with aircraft owners or management companies. However, as Linear Air鈥檚 Herp notes, many customers don鈥檛 know how to assess the quotes they鈥檙e given. 鈥淭hat process has a lot of friction and potential confusion and hesitation built into it,鈥� he says.

Companies like Linear Air and a host of other competitors, including , , , and , have changed the game with online 鈥渕arketplaces鈥� that allow users to search privately owned planes based on group size, destination, and travel dates (with flight options available for immediate booking), much in the same way that companies like Airbnb allow customers to rent owners鈥� properties. For private charters, generally the larger the group (15 to 16 passengers is the most common maximum-seating capacity), the more cost-efficient your trip, since you鈥檙e splitting the cost of the plane among more people. The total price can run from the low five digits all the way up to $50,000 or more, depending on the route, group size, dates, and aircraft type (generally, jets are pricier than single-engine turboprops).

However, there are pitfalls to watch out for. Some companies that market themselves as on demand still rely on a traditional brokerage model, meaning consumers remain at the mercy of any humans behind the scenes negotiating the transaction, which might result in hidden costs. Many require at least an email registration to search flights. In addition, cancellations aren鈥檛 uncommon, as operators will shift their aircraft to more profitable routes, or owners may decide they want their plane for the same dates you鈥檝e booked.

You can still score deals, though, especially with empty-leg discounts (鈥渆mpties鈥� in industry parlance), which happen when an operator tries to fill an aircraft while repositioning it to its home base or elsewhere. Such deals can save you 50 percent or more and make for an enticing last-minute getaway splurge: A recent email from FlyJets advertised a $1,213 single-seat fare on a Gulfstream from Westhampton, New York, to Miami. And a recent search with Linear Air鈥檚 one-way deals turned up a nine-person charter from Three Forks, Montana, to San Jose, California, for $10,221.

Public Charters

Another broad category in this space are companies that own or lease a fleet of private planes and sell tickets directly to the public, operating much like a small, regional airline. Here are three of our favorites:

Aero

The startup was created in 2019 Uber cofounder Garrett Camp. Its CEO, Uma Subramanian, says the company has also experienced an unexpected tailwind as a result of the pandemic. Aero recently announced and provides limited jet service from Los Angeles to ritzy vacation spots including Napa, California; Aspen, Colorado; and Sun Valley, Idaho. Aero also operates European routes including those to and from London; Nice, France; Mykonos, Greece; and Ibiza, Spain.

Prices are steep, starting at $1,000 one-way from L.A. to Napa, and $1,600 for all other U.S. summer routes. But it鈥檚 hard to beat the first-class feel in private airports and on board, with concierges who serve cocktails and snacks; swanky, hand-stitched leather seats designed in a one-by-one configuration (no clambering over anyone to use the restroom); and a maximum of 16 passengers per Embraer jet. 鈥淲e want the experience to feel like your vacation is starting right now, totally hassle-free,鈥� says Subramanian.

In addition, Subramanian notes, ticket prices remain consistent for the season, and routes are set. In other words, your flight won鈥檛 be canceled if the aircraft is rerouted for a more profitable booking. 鈥淲e surprisingly have had very little pushback on price,鈥� Subramanian said. 鈥淥ur customers are really experientially driven. They鈥檙e people that really value their time.鈥�

JSX

(formerly JetSuiteX) initially catered to business travelers between the San Francisco Bay Area and Los Angeles, when it began service in 2016. These days the Dallas-based operator, which brands itself as a 鈥渉op-on鈥� air service, is hitting its stride with the leisure set, too: by August, JSX will service 24 U.S. markets, a figure that鈥檚 doubled since January 2020.

CEO Alex Wilcox told 国产吃瓜黑料 that most of its new routes were driven by 鈥渕assive, massive demand鈥� for recreation-centric destinations. Additions include Lajitas, Texas, near Big Bend National Park; Reno鈥揕ake Tahoe, Nevada; San Diego and Monterey-Carmel, California; and Destin, a popular Florida Panhandle beach town. 鈥淲e鈥檙e absolutely seeing a surge in outdoor travel,鈥� he says. 鈥淔resh air is the number one thing people are looking for after a year of lockdown and Zoom.鈥�

One-way flights on JSX start at $99 but generally run a couple hundred dollars, comparable (and sometimes cheaper) in some markets to commercial fares, and passengers travel on spiffy, 30-seat Embraer 135鈥檚 and 145鈥檚. In addition to its liberal baggage policies, pets up to 35 pounds fly free (provided they can comfortably fit in a carrier under the seat), and snacks and drinks (alcoholic ones, too) are also gratis.

Wilcox says that JSX is 鈥渉yper focused on transitioning to lower-emission or non-emissions technologies鈥� as soon as possible. 鈥淲e are talking confidentially to a number of all-electric and hybrid-electric aircraft manufacturers,鈥� he says. 鈥淲e want to be the launch customer for that technology.鈥�

Taos Air

After suspending operations during the pandemic, this will resume twice-weekly direct flights on July 1 between Taos, New Mexico, and two cities each in Texas and California: Austin and Dallas, and Carlsbad/San Diego and Hawthorne (in the Los Angeles area). One-way flights start at $210, and the maximum number of passengers is 30 per plane.

Service out of a partnership between Taos Ski Valley and a group of area municipalities, and passenger perks include no baggage fees, shuttle service into town, and ski-gear rentals in the winter. 鈥淲e鈥檙e hearing from a lot of people about how excited they are to travel again, and reservations are booking well,鈥� a spokesperson told 国产吃瓜黑料 via email. Another draw for eco-conscious travelers? Taos Air offsets 100 percent of its carbon impact carbon-storage efforts.

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鈥淵ou don鈥檛 have to be an avid hiker to enjoy a hike on the PCT,鈥� says Eli Boschetto, author of . 鈥淚n many locations, it鈥檚 very accessible, and it can be hiked in smaller portions that visit some of the most scenic locations.鈥� With 2,650 miles of path to traverse, the Pacific Crest Trail is daunting to many, despite its convenience听for听the entire West Coast. For those who like the idea of exploring the PCT听but aren鈥檛 mentally or physically听prepared for the full Cheryl Strayed Wild experience, there are plenty of short treks to consider. According to the ,听none of the following听routes have been directly impacted by the recent wildfires.听From the North Cascades to the Sierra, here are our favorite day hikes along the PCT.

Kendall Katwalk

Length: 12 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Strenuous

Trailhead: Kittitas County, Washington听(47.4278, -121.4135)

One of the lengthier hikes on the听list, offers incredible views of Washington鈥檚 Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Rugged peaks and old-growth forest are decorated听with wildflowers in the summer and vibrant foliage in the fall. Best tackled between June and November, this hike has a 2,700-foot elevation gain that鈥檚 spread out over nearly seven miles and听features听360-degree views of the rocky cliff faces and surrounding wilderness. To get to the trailhead, head east on I-90 and take Exit 52 for Snoqualmie Pass, where you鈥檒l find a marked Pacific Crest Trail parking lot. Though only about an hour from Seattle, travelers can also bunk up in the quaint town of North Bend, about 23 miles west of the trailhead.

Chinook Pass to Crown Point

Length: 16 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous

Trailhead: Between Enumclaw and Naches (Yakima County), Washington听(46.872222, -121.516389)

This on Mount Rainier may be the longest on the list, but it鈥檚 also one of the most scenic sections of the PCT. The eight-mile path from the Naches Peak Loop Trailhead in Chinook Pass to Crown Point in the is home to many alpine lakes and sprawling meadows鈥攊ncluding Sheep Lake, Sourdough Gap, and Basin Lake鈥攁s well as elk and mountain goats. Once you reach Bear Gap Junction, about five miles in, continue along the PCT to Bullion Basin and Crown Point, where you鈥檒l be surrounded by听views of mountains, wildflowers, and wilderness. Be sure to pick up a either online or at a local Forest Service office before heading out.

Indian Heaven Trail

Length: 3.3-plus听miles one-way

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous

Trailhead: Skamania County, Washington听(46.047000, -121.756300)

A favorite of the Pacific Crest Trail Association, begins at Cultus Creek Campground, on the border of in the South Cascades, about 100 miles northeast of Portland, Oregon. Start on Indian Heaven Trail听33 by the campground, where huckleberries and wildflower meadows are accompanied by views of Mount Rainier and Goat Rocks, an extinct volcano in the Cascade Range听to the north. The hike has a significant听1,500-foot elevation gain, but you can tack on a few extra miles by continuing on the PCT at either Deer Lake or Cultus Creek Trail 108 to make a loop. Be sure to have a Northwest Forest Pass on hand.

Timberline Lodge to Zigzag Canyon

Length: 5 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Trailhead: Government Camp, Oregon听(45.332892, -121.711432)

Known primarily for its wildflowers and breathtaking meadow expanses, this out-and-back hike听on Mount Hood is best tackled between July and October. Great for birdwatchers and casual hikers, the path is moderately trafficked, and the nearly 885 feet of听elevation gain听results in a pretty significant workout. For more serious hikers, continue past Zigzag Canyon to Paradise Park鈥攁n area full of scenic听alpine meadows鈥攂y taking Paradise Park Trail 757, about four miles in.

McKenzie Pass to Little Belknap听

Length: 4.6 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous

Trailhead: Sisters, Oregon听(44.260404, -121.810006)

About 18 miles west of the town of Sisters, this hike听begins where the PCT crosses Route 242 at McKenzie Pass. Hike through ancient lava fields, with extensive views of the Three Sisters range and Mount Washington, before coming upon the听stunning panoramas听of Black Butte and Black Crater at the Little Belknap Crater summit. Note that because the trail is quite rocky and exposed, temperatures can get high, so opt to tackle this route in the spring or fall. A听newly implemented听Central Cascades Permit System is being delayed until 2021 due to COVID-19, so make sure you read up on before you head out next year.

Mount Ashland Meadows

Length: 8.1 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Trailhead: Jackson County, Oregon听(42.07349, -122.69715)

This section听is a favorite of Matt Wastradowski, coauthor of Moon鈥檚 guide. As the highest peak in the Siskiyou Mountains, Mount Ashland offers panoramic views of Black Butte, Mount Shasta, and the surrounding Klamath National Forest. Start at the Pacific Crest Trailhead where it intersects with Mount听Ashland Ski Road, making your way through a mix of woods and meadows听for the first few miles before the path opens up at Grouse Gap, a popular shelter and picnic area. Because the trail is mostly flat and the meadows make for easy turnaround points, it鈥檚 a great hike for families with kids.

Castle Dome via Crags Trail

Length: 5.6 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous

Trailhead: Castella (Shasta County), California听(41.162455, -122.298590)

This short route听in Northern California is known for its exposed granite cliffs听and sweeping valleys. From the entrance near Vista Point Road, follow the sign that says Crags Trail. The path becomes harder to distinguish as you enter Castle Crags Wilderness in Shasta-Trinity National Forest, where you鈥檒l find monolithic cliffs, crevices, and jagged rock formations, as well as the unbeatable views of Mount Shasta in clear conditions. Those who aren鈥檛 sure about the 2,100-foot elevation gain can head west for a couple of miles at the PCT intersection (about a mile in) and still catch some great views of Castle Crags. No permit is required, and听dogs and bikes are not allowed.

Carson Pass to Lake Winnemucca

Length: 5 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Trailhead: South Lake Tahoe/Kirkwood, California听(38.694303, -119.988829)

About 30 miles south of Lake Tahoe, this popular path听is leisurely enough for both families and novice hikers. The trail is known for its gorgeous wildflowers in the summer, though it鈥檚 also beautiful in the fall, when the leaves begin to change and the weather starts to cool. Lake Winnemucca makes for an ideal lunch break, and it鈥檚听popular for swimming and fishing. If you鈥檙e hiking with little ones or older parents, there鈥檚 always the option to cut it short and stop at Frog Lake instead. Just make sure to arrive early, as this hike is a favorite among locals and the parking lot off California Highway 88 fills up fast.

Storm Canyon Lookout to Kwaaymii Point

Length: 11.2 miles round-trip

Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Trailhead: San Diego County, California听(32.896192, -116.448812)

Located in the , less than 60 miles east of San Diego, is fitting for day hikers and amateur backpackers. The hike begins at the Storm Canyon Vista Trailhead, along Sunrise Highway, and continues north along a wide track听with little elevation gain, eventually passing Pioneer Mail Picnic Area, site of a historic stagecoach route. On a clear day, you鈥檒l enjoy epic views of the Anza-Borrego听desert and the surrounding Cleveland National Forest throughout the hike. Dispersed camping restrictions begin at mile 13.5 and end at mile 53.2, north of Pioneer Mail Picnic Area, so your best bet is to听camp听at Laguna Campground (from $26)听in the Laguna Mountain Recreation听Area.

The post The Best Day Hikes on the Pacific Crest Trail appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

This is the tenth year of my blog at , and since I started it, I鈥檝e been fortunate to get to go on听some pretty wonderful adventures. Throughout 2020, I鈥檒l be writing about 12 of my favorites, one per month. This is the second in the series.

As we looked over our menus, we began to sense that the Waffle House staff was nearing a complete meltdown. It was evening, day 39 of our 49-day bicycle ride across America, March 15, 2010.听Tony and I had pushed our bikes and trailers into a hotel room a block away, showered, and walked to the nearest restaurant, which was a Waffle House. We were tired and ready to eat. Almost six weeks into our trip, our bodies had basically turned into machines that pedaled fully loaded bicycles all day, burning 4,000 to 8,000 calories. We鈥檇 taken only three rest days so far听and would only take one more the remainder of the 3,000-mile trip, so our daily average was 66.67 miles. The day we arrived in Bayou La Batre, Alabama, we had pedaled 105 miles听from Rogers Lake, Mississippi. It was my first-ever century ride, and although Waffle House might not be many people鈥檚 first choice after a ride like that, I was more than fine with it.

My back was to the open kitchen, so I could only eavesdrop, but Tony could see everything. From what we gathered, a rather large carryout order had come in, and the cook had totally fucked it up, causing delays with听not only the large carryout order听but all the orders for customers sitting in the dining area as well. Not to mention that the staff, arguing among听themselves in full view, were听enough to convince even the most diehard Waffle House fan to eat elsewhere that night. Despite pleas from the waitstaff to call a manager in to help, the cook adamantly refused, making things awkward for everyone within earshot鈥攚hich is to say the entire restaurant. It was the kind of thing that nowadays someone would record on a smartphone and post to Twitter in hopes that it would go viral. Since I couldn鈥檛 see, Tony narrated for me, as we tried to calculate how much food to order to replace 105 miles鈥� worth of calories.

鈥淭his is total mayhem.鈥�

鈥淭he cook just threw something.鈥�

鈥淥K, now the younger waitress is in the back crying.鈥�

Were we not touring cyclists, we might have听decided to leave. But we just wanted to eat and go to bed so we could get up early and pedal 60-some miles the next day, and our dining options in such a small town were pretty limited, and further limited by the fact that, if we wanted to go to a different restaurant, we鈥檇 have to walk to wherever it was. And,听you know, you sort of have to ask yourself: If I want to go see America, is America things like the Statue of Liberty, the Grand Canyon, and the Hollywood sign? Or is it a Waffle House in a small town, hoping that the staff doesn鈥檛 mutiny听so we can get some hash browns? That鈥檚 a rhetorical question, but I鈥檇 argue for the Waffle House. It鈥檚 open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, a completely different scene at 2 A.M. than at 7:30 A.M., affordable to anyone who can scrounge up five bucks, and thus an option to people of all income levels but mostly patronized by those of us not in the 1听percent. It听has potential for brief moments of public theater, but it mostly just chugs听along, making eggs and waffles. I mean, I love the Grand Canyon, but I think you can learn more about America at a diner.听

We eventually were able to place our order, our food eventually came to the table, we eventually ate everything, and the Waffle House was still standing the next morning when we returned for breakfast, like nothing had happened. We ate pretty much the same thing as the night before, and a local sitting at the counter chatted us up, reminding us that part of Forrest Gump was set here, in Bayou La Batre, Benjamin Buford 鈥淏ubba鈥� Blue鈥檚 hometown, where Forrest buys a boat to start the Bubba Gump Shrimp Company.

Tony and I went to high school in a town not much bigger than Bayou La Batre, and we spent many Friday and Saturday nights working together in a restaurant, washing dishes and busing tables. Tony shot up to six听feet听ten听inches听midway through high school, and everyone expected him to play basketball, but he had other ideas. He topped out at seven feet tall, went to college, and became a chiropractor in Chicago听and an entrepreneur.

When he asked me in 2009 if I鈥檇 like to bicycle across the country with him the next year, I said of course I would. He said he鈥檇 pay for it, which was an ideal situation for me, since I was making $26,000 a year working at a nonprofit. I鈥檇 been riding my steel road bike to and from work听in Denver for three and a half years, while trying to become an adventure writer听in my spare time. In Chicago, Tony had been getting into triathlons and road rides. The last time we鈥檇 ridden our bikes any distance together was the last time I did RAGBRAI, the bike ride across Iowa, in 2000, and that was more of a party than a bike tour for us, to be honest.

Having not spent much time together in the previous听eight years, but hoping we could make it across the country on bikes and remain friends, we dipped our tires in the Pacific at Ocean Beach in San Diego on February 5, 2010, pushed our rides to the pavement, and started pedaling. Our final intended destination was Saint听Augustine, Florida, the opposite end of the 国产吃瓜黑料 Cycling Association鈥檚 Southern Tier route鈥攖he flattest, shortest route across the country. Our first day, we climbed out of San Diego, managing 34.5 miles to Alpine, California.

Before I left for the trip, my wise friend Mick gave me two pieces of advice about long bike tours: 鈥淵ou鈥檙e going to have some high highs and some low lows out there鈥� and 鈥淒on鈥檛 try to muscle through anything鈥攋ust keep spinning.鈥� And my friend Maynard half-joked: 鈥淚 hope you like riding eight miles per hour into a headwind.鈥� All those things would ring true over听the span of about 24 hours听much later down the road.

I didn鈥檛 have any grand ideas about the trip, besides maybe being able to write about it for a magazine article or听even a book.听I knew bicycling across America wasn鈥檛 the most unique thing, but maybe something would happen that would sustain a narrative. I bought a URL听and created听a blog to keep our friends and families updated on our progress听and to help raise money for the nonprofit I worked for. I packed a $250 Asus laptop to try to keep the blog current听and added Wi-Fi service to my Verizon plan听so I could turn my flip phone into a hot spot when we weren鈥檛 staying in a hotel with that capability.

I updated the blog every day, downloading photos from our digital cameras, writing a few sentences about our progress and听sometimes a quote from a conversation with a stranger. Most days, though, in the 鈥渘o shit, there I was鈥� sense of adventure writing, nothing really happened. What did happen is we plugged away, every day. We got up, ate as much food as we could stomach, got dressed, filled our water bottles, wheeled our bikes out to the road, swung a leg over the saddle, and started pedaling. We鈥檇 ride together for a few minutes, then听Tony would get warmed up听and start to pull away, riding a half-mile, or a mile, or two miles ahead of me the entire day, stopping every couple hours to check in听or听stop at a caf茅听to eat lunch听or pop into a convenience store to buy cans of Coke, Snickers bars, and whatever other calories looked good. Somewhere between 40 and 105 miles, we鈥檇听knock off for the day, find a hotel, shower, and eat at a restaurant. Tony wasn鈥檛 that excited to camp, although we鈥檇 brought camping gear (including a tent that could fit a seven-foot-tall person). I protested at first, saying I thought it would be 鈥渕ore legit鈥� if we camped more. Tony said, 鈥淩iding your bike across America is legit,鈥� and I could not argue with that point.

We rode across the bottom of California, occasionally looking at听the U.S.-Mexico border fence to our right. We rode into Phoenix from the northwest听and out its听southeast side, almost 60 miles of pedaling to get across the entire urban spread, and we pedaled through the desert, away from angry dogs (I eventually developed a technique of explosively yelling at them, which stopped them in their tracks, surprised鈥攅xcept for the rottweilers) and into New Mexico, where we hit the highest elevation of the trip, 8,228-foot Emory Pass, on day 15. We started to meet other cyclists on the same route, either headed in the same direction or the opposite way, and realized there was really no 鈥渢ypical鈥� cross-country rider: some were pedaling 50 or more miles a day, unsupported and stealth camping, while others were riding solo 20 or 30 miles a day, with a friend driving a minivan somewhere behind them. Some had a schedule, some were taking their time.

On day 20, we adjusted our route to take a less hilly path, avoiding the Davis Mountains in West Texas and heading to the town of Marfa on U.S. Route 90. My memory of the day is the flattest, straightest road I鈥檝e ever ridden on, with a few barely noticeable adjustments to the left, a slight uphill grade the entire way, and wide-open ranchland along both sides of the pavement. In the morning, we caught up with a couple named Bruce and Dana, a pair of retired teachers from Tacoma, Washington, and rode with them a good part of the day. The chip-seal road was so rough that we tried to keep our wheels on the painted white line on the side of it, because it was that much smoother. Tony said he watched his bike computer slow from 14 to 9听miles per hour听several times when he rolled off the white line. In 75 miles of riding that day, the only town we鈥檇 pass听through on our map was Valentine, Texas, population 184, with no businesses to speak of aside from听the post office. A few miles before Valentine, however, is the art installation , a fake Prada store in the middle of nowhere.听I was riding with Bruce and Dana, and Tony was ahead of us somewhere. We stopped, took some photos, and pedaled on, catching Tony in Valentine a few miles later. He hadn鈥檛 stopped at the Prada store, because he hadn鈥檛 even noticed it on the side of the road as he rolled past鈥攚hich is either almost unbelievable, because the ride was so straight-ahead monotonous, or completely expected, because the ride was so straight-ahead monotonous.

A few days later, I got the high highs and low lows Mick had promised. I did a lot of things to pass the time out there, pedaling six to eight hours a day, all the time in my own head while Tony rode a ways ahead. Tony had a little speaker on his bike to play music while he rode, but I didn鈥檛 want to listen to music because I thought it would ruin my favorite tunes听for me, spending all day listening to the same playlists听for 300-plus听hours total by the end of the trip. So I chose silence, talking to cows as I passed, making up lyrics to songs, sometimes talking to myself a bit. I didn鈥檛 have a bike computer or smartphone map, so I just pedaled, watching the horizon for signs of the next town. It was fantastically boring, and a decade later, when I spend all my waking hours checking my phone every few minutes, I look back on it with incredible nostalgia. I suppose we always look at the past as a simpler time,听no matter what, because we remember the images in our minds and the general tone of a memory听but forget all the other things we were thinking about at the time. But it really did seem simple: wake up, eat, pedal, eat, pedal, eat, go to sleep, repeat until you hit an ocean.

On day 23, a few miles outside Langtry, Texas鈥攗nincorporated, population 12, home to a museum and almost nothing else鈥擨 was pedaling by myself as the wind picked up, right in my face. I had read somewhere on the internet that you could camp in Langtry, but if you didn鈥檛 arrive by 5 P.M., the water was shut off. So I was a little anxious to get there as the wind started pushing into my face, and then I began to get worried, because I had almost no water to drink, let alone to cook our food with when we camped that night. Then I got a flat tire. And the wind picked up some more. Then I got another flat tire. I got very frustrated听and then just kind of lost it for a few seconds. I screamed at the top of my lungs for a couple of minutes听while pedaling by myself听into the wind, alone on a highway, cranking my metaphorical steam valve wide open, and then, catching my breath, closing it again. Low, low: check.听

When I arrived in Langtry, the rumor about water turned out to be false. I bought and ate a few听ice cream sandwiches at the corner store. We set up the tent, had听dinner, crashed, and during the night, the wind picked up to a steady 30 miles per hour, coming from the east. The next morning, we headed out听with a handful of candy bars from the museum store to sustain us to Del Rio, 55 miles away. We pedaled, looking like two cartoon characters leaning into the wind, in granny gear on the uphills听and granny gear on the downhills, too. I just laughed听and kept spinning. The wind wouldn鈥檛 let up听or even change direction. If we鈥檇 had听more food with us, we might have stopped for the night, but we didn鈥檛, so our only hope was to reach Del Rio. We pedaled for 11 hours, stopping once at a small bar to grab some bags of potato chips and a few candy bars. We averaged five听miles per hour the entire way, the wind never relenting until our last five miles into town听in the dark. Pedaling eight听miles per hour into a headwind, as Maynard had said, would have been a dream.

We rolled our bikes into a hotel room in Del Rio, ordered three large pizzas from Domino鈥檚, ate them, and went to bed. Later that year, Tony would finish his first Ironman Triathlon, and when I texted him to congratulate him, he texted back that it wasn鈥檛 nearly as bad as 鈥渢hat day in Texas with the headwind.鈥�

One of the things I believe many people will tell you about a long trip, whether it鈥檚 thru-hiking a long-distance trail, backpacking a hostel circuit for a month and a half, or pedaling a bicycle for weeks at a time, is that it鈥檚 as much about the people you meet as it is about the places you see. You meet people on a bike tour because you are on a bike, and the bicycle is a conversation starter. People see you as somewhere between a little crazy and a complete idiot听because you鈥檝e chosen听to travel by bicycle in the 21st century听but also, because of the bicycle, they听find you probably harmless enough that you won鈥檛 mind a little chitchat. If they see you and your fully loaded bicycle outside a restaurant, convenience store, or hotel somewhere, they will ask you some, if not all, of these four questions:

1. Where are you headed?
2. Where did you start?
3. How many miles do you ride every day?
4. What do you eat?

At some point in the conversation, you鈥檒l get a chance to ask them, 鈥淎re you from around here?鈥� and in that way, you get to meet a few people. Which is something that happens way less when you鈥檙e traveling inside a gas-powered, climate-controlled vehicle, in my experience. On my bike, I had brief conversations with Walmart greeters, waitstaff, ferry employees, convenience-store clerks, and fellow restaurant patrons, and it helped new, strange places feel welcoming, wherever we were.

The thing I started to feel as we racked up the miles, and that we both agreed on years later, is that we were going a little too fast听and that maybe it would have been nice to have taken a little more time and do a little more exploring听and talking to people. At the time, though, Tony鈥檚 business was young, and he was definitely motivated to get back to work and try听to keep things moving forward from the road with spotty cell service. And I was just grateful to have two months off work (even unpaid), something that hasn鈥檛 happened since and may not happen again in my life. As we made our way across Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, and finally听Florida, we ran into more and more people bicycling the Southern Tier听and even one lady, Robin, riding the Southern Tier as just one leg of a giant rectangle around the perimeter of the United States, ensuring she鈥檇 still be pedaling her bike after I鈥檇 been back in the office for six months.听

We had friends join us for sections, including our pal Nick听from high school, who rode the last 210 miles with us from Tallahassee to Saint Augustine, slipping in as seamlessly as if he鈥檇 ridden the previous 2,800 miles. As we got closer to the end, I started to think about what we鈥檇 done听and how I framed it in my life. I couldn鈥檛 really nail it down. It felt like a big adventure, but in the Yvon Chouinard听sense of 鈥渨hen everything goes wrong, that鈥檚 when adventure starts鈥� never really happened;听we鈥檇 made it through pretty unscathed and according to plan, aside from a bunch of flat tires and a couple of worn-out bike chains. It went really well鈥攂asically the opposite of a book like Into Thin Air, when everything did go wrong, to the point where it became a disaster and a bunch of people died. In 49 days together, we didn鈥檛 even have enough disagreements to fill half an episode of The听Real Housewives of New Jersey.

In the ten years since Tony and I started pedaling east from San Diego, I鈥檝e been lucky to spend lots of time in the outdoors, doing a bunch of different things that fall under the idea of adventure. Be it backpacking, rock climbing, mountaineering, backcountry skiing, trail running, kayaking, whitewater rafting, or bikepacking, I think about all of it as travel听and trying听to understand something through a mode of travel. Because whether it鈥檚 a boulder problem or a 2,200-mile thru-hike, you define it as听moving听from one place to another by human-powered means, crimping through a 12-foot-tall V11听or walking three听miles per hour for 250 miles, from starting line to finish line or put-in to take-out. On our bike ride across America, I realized that traveling by bicycle is just about my favorite way to see a place: slow enough to take in scenery听but with the ability to coast, carrying everything I need with me听but not on my back, and burning enough calories to eat a large pizza every evening if I want to.

I鈥檝e since become friends with a couple of people who also bicycled across the U.S.听but aren鈥檛 from here, one Chinese and the other English. I sometimes wonder how different their trips were from mine, how different their perspective was on it, and if any of us (or anyone really) can say they鈥檝e actually 鈥渟een America,鈥� because America is a story听or an idea, and it鈥檚 much different now than when I pedaled across it in 2010. I guess all I know is that if you want to put in the effort, and you want to feel like you鈥檝e seen it, I don鈥檛 know a better way than on a two-wheeled machine that runs on Snickers bars and diner coffee. I can鈥檛 say exactly where you should go to look for America; I can just say I鈥檇 look somewhere besides the internet.

I never did try to write a book about our trip. I did manage a couple of magazine articles听and a few blogs about bike touring, and I left our blog up on the internet for a decade before I finally made it private. But as the ten-year mark approached, I wanted to do something to thank Tony for the trip. So I started copying and pasting all the text from all those blogs, and tracking down all the photos, and cringing at some of my writing (and fashion choices) at the time.

I spent probably 25 or 30 hours formatting everything听into a hardcover book. I printed a total of three copies鈥攐ne for Tony, one for me, and one for my parents (my dad had printed听and kept all the blog posts in a file this whole time). The photography isn鈥檛 amazing, and I鈥檓 not particularly proud of the writing, but it鈥檚 a book.

I finished it and had it ready to ship to Tony a few days late for the tenth听anniversary of the start of our trip, and I composed听a few sentences on a card to stick in the package. I can鈥檛 remember the exact words I wrote, except for two things: 鈥淭hanks鈥� and 鈥渟till one of the biggest and best adventures of my life.鈥�

The post My Bike Ride Across America appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

More than 75 percent of Baja鈥檚 3.3 million residents live in the northern cities of Tijuana and Ensenada. Much of the rest of the 55,366-square-mile peninsula鈥攕urrounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west coast and the Gulf of California on the east coast鈥攊s wide-open space, an increasing amount of which is becoming preserved as听federal lands, private reserves, and community projects. In total听there are more than 14 million acres of protected land and water, including seven national parks, like Sierra de San Pedro M谩rtir in northern Baja, where Picacho del Diablo, the peninsula鈥檚 highest peak, rises to 10,154 feet. The rocky hike to the top is rewarded with views of the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez. Mountain bikers can get in on ocean views, too, with an exponentially growing network of trails in the mountains surrounding La Paz, Todos Santos, and Los Cabos.

But Baja鈥檚 most celebrated feature is its 2,038 miles of jagged coastline, which听courts surfers, stand-up paddleboarders, sailors, scuba divers, snorkelers, paddlers, and anglers. Jacques Cousteau famously coined the Sea of Cortez, home to 800 varieties of fish, 鈥渢he world鈥檚 aquarium.鈥� Many of those species are protected in reserves like 27-square-mile on the southern tip of Baja. On the Pacific side, the new, nearly three-million-acre 听is a protective sanctuary for gray whales and sea turtles.

My first experience in Baja started in Tijuana with a fish-bowl sized margarita. It was 1988, and the city was festive and gritty. Its complexity intrigued me. A decade later, I hopped a flight to the pastel-hued 17th-century mission village of Loreto to find it full of Hawaiian-shirt-clad fishermen en route to compete in a tournament for dorado, marlin, and sailfish in the Sea of Cortez. I headed south to the solitude of a nine-room eco-resort (which has since closed) on a searing white-sand beach looking out on the mysterious, cacti-studded Isla Danzante.

Three years ago, my boyfriend and I rented a car to explore the southern tip of the peninsula, mountain-biking the foothills above Los Barriles, snorkeling with sea lions off Isla Esp铆鈥猺itu Santo, and eating whole grilled red snapper while sipping jalape帽o margaritas at an under-the-radar restaurant on the edge of La Paz鈥檚 marina. Along the way, we found a wind-carved canyon pierced by sunlight above the Sea of Cortez and long stretches of empty Pacific white sand.

A few months ago听we returned, going deeper into the peninsula, exploring a network of new mountain-bike trails, paddling the newly protected waters of the Pacific Islands Biosphere Reserve, and meeting with a young entrepreneur, Adolfo de la Pe帽a, in the old mining community of San Antonio, where he is trying to resurrect his historic community.听As quickly as things are changing in Baja, some of the best things remain the same, like that La Paz restaurant, where we returned to eat grilled red snapper. The fish was as exquisitely fresh as we remembered it.

What You Need to Know Before Visiting Baja

Prepare for warm days and cold water: The Baja sun is hot, but the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean can be cold, so pack protective Buffs, hats,听UPF 50, and quick-drying cover-ups. Also bring a solid pair of shoes beyond flip-flops鈥攃actus spines are omnipresent, from the beaches to the mountain-bike trails.

Get supplemental car insurance: If you plan to drive your car into Baja, make sure it鈥檚 in prime working order. Pending how remote you plan to get,听you may not be able to find replacements parts if needed. For an idea of spare parts to bring along, visit All About Baja鈥檚听. And be sure to buy a Mexican car-insurance policy as听U.S. plans don鈥檛 work south of the border. Get a quote from听, a company that has been selling Mexican auto insurance since 1983, from one-day to one-year policies.

Or rent a car: If you aren鈥檛 driving down yourself, unless you plan to never leave a resort, you鈥檒l want a car to explore. Note that the minimum age for car rental is 25 years old, but some companies accept drivers 21 and older with a valid driver鈥檚 license from another country and add a surcharge to the rental fee. American car-rental agencies like Hertz and Thrifty are ubiquitous at the Los Cabos airport鈥攁nd be sure to buy the Mexican听rental insurance. According to Mexican law, uninsured drivers can be arrested and held for liable damages.

Drive only during the day: For three key reasons: there are wandering cows,听the roads are narrow with no shoulders, and听in the evening, there are a lot more big-rig听cargo trucks.

Find a less expensive flight across the border: Fly to San Diego, then take a 30-minute shuttle, Uber, or taxi to the听听(CBX) facilities, a 390-foot-long pedestrian skybridge that crosses from California into Mexico and goes directly to Tijuana International Airport. If you use the CBX service (from $16 one way, and an additional $12 one way if you use the CBX shuttle), there鈥檚 no need to enter Tijuana airport鈥檚 main departure lounge. You鈥檒l pass through the CBX鈥檚 security and go directly to your gate. On a good day, it鈥檚 possible to reach your gate in about twenty minutes (though you should always allow for extra time pending high volume travel days and other factors). Domestic Mexican airline听 offers direct flights to Loreto, La Paz, and Los Cabos, and has direct flights to Loreto and La Paz.

Check travel advisories for the region: The Baja Peninsula is safer than most of mainland Mexico, but the situation is fluid, so keep an eye on U.S. State Department travel advisories.

Do your camping homework: Unlike the U.S., camping is not strictly regulated in Baja, which has its pros and cons. You can find yourself alone on a stretch of golden sand savoring the sunset of a lifetime, but there are also fewer amenities, like toilets and trash receptacles. The best places to camp are near small coastal towns and away from mega resort corridors, like Los Cabos. Read online forums听and feel out the vibe of the place before staking the tent.

What鈥檚 the Best Time of Year to Visit Baja?

January to March is prime whale-watching season and the height of tourist visits.听Summer is the best time to surf and brings temperatures that can soar into the nineties. Spring (May and听June) and fall (October and听November) have more moderate temperatures鈥攖he seventies听to eighties鈥攁nd fewer crowds, but beware that the Pacific Ocean hurricane season runs mid-May through November. In the fall of 2019, the area around La Ventana was deluged with rain, which made the desert lush and green听but also left听roads impassable in some places. The calmest water for sea kayakers can be had听from October through early December,听the best time for kiteboarders and windsurfers is mid-October to early April,听and anglers can try their luck year-round, depending on what they听want to catch.

Where to Go in Baja

We鈥檝e separated the peninsula into four general regions and chosen the best adventures and activities to do in each, from drinking world-class wine in Baja Norte, the official designation of the northern half of the state, to surfing off Los Cabos, at the southernmost tip. Driving the entire 775-mile-long peninsula, as many Americans do annually with their dogs, tents, mountain bikes, surfboards, and SUPs, takes a solid week.

Baja Norte听

For a great starter Baja road trip, complete with surfing, hiking, canyoneering, kayaking, and an opportunity to redefine your notion of what constitutes Mexican food,听try this 346-mile loop, which听starts and ends in Tijuana, going through Valle de Guadalupe and its vineyards, the coastal city of Ensenada, and the little-known Constitution of 1857 National Park along the way. Add stuffing yourself with the world鈥檚 most authentic fish tacos, and you鈥檝e got way more fun than you can fit into a five-day outing, the ideal amount of time for an introduction to this area. Or simply choose a couple of the destinations or adventures below.

Day 1: Cross the border from San Diego into Tijuana

Tijuana is experiencing a cultural renaissance, with cutting-edge architecture, colorful murals, and a spicy food scene. Enter into Mexico at Mercado Hidalgo, a plaza flapping with Mexican flags and brimming with pi帽atas, sombreros, and sweet dulces. Stop for lunch at听, a former vacant lot turned food-truck haven where creative eats like octopus-and-corn-fungus tacos go well with smoky cucumber margaritas. In the afternoon, meander the mural-and-graffiti-filled pasajes, or artistic corridors, of El Centro. Head to for a smooth cream ale, then on to for an explosion of traditional central-Mexico听flavors and classic Baja ingredients, like seafood, quail, and organic chicken.

Day 2: Head east to Tecate and then on to Valle de Guadalupe

From Tijuana, head east on Highway 2D for 36 miles to Tecate.听Stop at 听in Tecate,听where the husband-wife owner-chefs have impressive culinary pedigrees. Order the chile- and garlic-infused tortilla soup, garnished with octopus. From Tecate, turn south on Mexico 3, and drive 46 miles to Valle de Guadalupe. The award-winning wines in this region are the handiwork of a little-known sect of Russian Christians who planted grapes when they immigrated here in 1905. In the past decade, the valley has become Mexico鈥檚 answer to Napa, with chic tasting rooms and sleek hotels with infinity pools. At , a relaxed restaurant within the exquisite hotel , local David Castro Hussong has created an organic oasis on 200 acres of vineyards, where the stark elegance enhances the surrounding arid landscape.

Day 3: Surf in Ensenada

A tranquilo fishing port 30 miles south of Valle de Guadalupe, the surf here stretches north and south of the city, with serious waves at beaches like La Fonda, El Pico, and Stacks. Gentler breaks are farther south, at Playa Hermosa. Stop in at听 for rentals, lessons, or to watch owner Alfredo Jaro and his crew shape boards. About 45听minutes south of the city, you鈥檒l find , the second-largest marine geyser in the world. It鈥檚 a well-touristed spot, but it鈥檚 awe-inspiring to watch the salt water blow and is also a good way to scout the incredible coasteering options available alongside the rugged Pacific. Ensenada-based听offers canyoning, rappelling, hiking, kayaking, or a combination of all four in one day.

Day 4: Hike and seek wildlife in Constitution 1857 National Park

The Sierra de Juarez is 60 miles east of Ensenada on Mexico 3. An oasis for mule deer, bighorn sheep, cougars, coyotes, bobcats, and soaring falcons, the 12,380-acre forested park sits at about 5,000 feet and boasts high-alpine Hanson Lake. Hike Jeffrey Route, a two-mile loop from the visitor center. Along the path sits a representation of a Kumeyaay camp, the indigenous people who settled in what is now the southwestern U.S. and Mexico more than 12,000 years ago. Or hike to the top of Hanson Hill, the summit of which is almost 6,000 feet.

Day 5: Head back to Ensenada

Take advantage of the incredible array of fish and shrimp tacos sold at stands on nearly every Ensenada corner. They go well with the locally brewed Aguamala Astillero Imperial IPA. Tijuana is a 70-mile drive north on coast-hugging Mexico 1D.

Where to Stay in Baja Norte听

Tijuana:听, a 14-room boutique hotel in the center of everything, with clean, modern lines, exposed brick walls, and beds so comfortable you can sleep off an all-nighter. Doubles from $55

Valle de Guadalupe: At听, eight glass-and-wood suites surround听a main living room, pool, and deck听and are so organically designed that you feel immersed in the surrounding landscape. Doubles from $438

Ensenada: There鈥檚 a good array of Airbnbs here, or book an ocean-view room at , an updated old-school resort hotel听with clean and peaceful rooms. From $131

Camping: There are a few gated campgrounds, like Playa Saldamando, eight miles north of Ensenada. For a more private option, drive south of Ensenada, boot up Google Earth, zoom in, and find dirt tracks that lead to any empty remote coastline, where you can camp as long as you leave no trace.

Los Cabos and听Todos Santos

On the southern tip of Baja, you鈥檒l find Los Cabos, a collective term for the town听of Cabo San Lucas, to the west; the 18th-century mission village of San Jos茅听del Cabo, to the east; and the 20-mile corridor of sand and rock escarpments in between. Los Cabos deserves its rap as the hub for听tequila-slamming, scantily-clad spring breakers, largely because it鈥檚 easily accessed by Los Cabos International Airport. But the region still has gorgeous bones, like Cabo El Arco, the craggy rock arch that delineates where the Pacific ends and the Sea of Cortez begins, and, on the far east end of San Jos茅听del Cabo, Estuary Beach, which is backed by a freshwater lagoon that harbors more than 350 species of vegetation and wildlife. In between are resorts for every budget, 11 major surf breaks, ample opportunities to watch whales or deep-sea fish for wahoo, marlin, and tuna, and culinary oases, like听, a 25-acre organic working farm and an open-air restaurant in the foothills of Sierra de la Laguna. For those who prefer more solitude with their sand and waves, the laid-back village of Todos Santos is about an hour鈥檚 drive north of Cabo San Lucas on Mexico 19. Beware: many beaches in Los Cabos are often closed to swimming due to deep drop-offs near the shoreline that create dangerous riptides and currents, so heed the signs. The most swimmable spots are Medano Beach, in the heart of Cabo San Lucas; Chileno Beach, in the luxury hotel zone northeast of Cabo San Lucas (and it has lifeguards on duty); and Playa Acapulquito, or Old Man鈥檚 Beach, near San Jos茅听del Cabo.

What to Do in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Find surf action for everyone in Los Cabos: From the hard-charging surfer to the adventurous family of five that wants the ultimate multisport ocean vacation, there鈥檚 something for everyone in Los Cabos. The string of breaks around Playa Costa Azul is the center of Los Cabos surf culture. Zippers, the rocky right-point break close to the beach, is home to the Los Cabos Open of Surf in June and has been part of the women鈥檚 and junior听World Surf League pro tours for the past few years, while Old Man鈥檚 Beach听and Pescadito are favorites for longboarders and beginners.听听offers rentals, lessons, and expert guides who lead excursions to lesser known breaks.

See a humpback whale breach: It鈥檚 one of the most awe-inspiring phenomena in the animal kingdom. Whales begin migrating south to the Los Cabos region in the middle of November, birth their calves in late December and January, nurse them through March and April, then begin their migration north. During this generous six-month window, take a two-and-a-half-hour Zodiac tour with听 (from $89). It鈥檚 led by a marine biologist and is the most exciting way to see the whales as safely for them鈥攁nd for you鈥攁s possible.

Go deep-sea fishing: Los Cabos has been hit hard with the illegal harvesting of billfish, so it鈥檚 imperative that you do your research on the most ethical charter company before signing up for a day of deep-sea fishing. One of the most long-standing is听, which started operating in La Paz in 1978 and eventually migrated south to Los Cabos. In 1995, it was honored with a Lifetime Achievement Award for Conservation by the International Game Fish Association. Since then听several of its captains have been recognized with the Billfish Foundation Award for most striped marlin released worldwide. The company charters everything from 22-foot skiffs to mega yachts (from $112).

Lose the crowds in Todos Santos: This beautifully preserved听18th-century mission village an hour north of Los Cabos isn鈥檛 exactly a secret, but it鈥檚 still a nice big resort antidote, with artisan shops, boutique hotels, and , mistakenly believed to be the inspiration for the famous 1976 Eagles song. Mountain bikers will want to stop in at , a full-service bike shop that rents current models and full-suspension mountain bikes听and can guide riders or point them in the direction of the area鈥檚 30 miles of hand-built trails that roll over dunes and into the foothills and show off panoramic Pacific views.

While Todos Santos is near the Pacific, it鈥檚 not actually on the Pacific. Drive west of town, and almost any road will dead-end at a dune from which you can walk the seemingly endless stretch of golden sand known as La Cachora beach. Its water is so rough that surfers gravitate five miles north of town to La Pastora, a sandy beach with fun right breaks. You鈥檒l need four-wheel drive to get there, but it鈥檚 worth it, especially since it鈥檚 also home to the听 restaurant, named for the ephemeral feel and color on the inside of a wave. The restaurant鈥檚 mezcal margaritas and smoked tuna p芒t茅, served right on the beach, are the perfect way to wind down a busy day.

South of Todos Santos is Pescadero, a reef break close to shore, and Cerritos, a sandy-bottom beach break with the most consistent surf in Baja Sur. Los Cerritos Surf Shop rents boards at the beach from sunrise to sunset.听 and听, in the small hamlet of El Pescadero, also offer surfboard rentals, in addition to lessons and excursions (including kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding). Fuel up for the morning with a cup or two of organic, honey-processed java and a veggie frittata with spicy Mexican salsa from听, an outdoor caf茅听nestled among mango trees.

Three species of endangered sea turtles nest on the beaches of Todos Santos from October through March: the olive ridley, black, and critically endangered leatherback. Help them out by volunteering with听, a nonprofit that needs people to care for hatchlings, relocate nests, clean up the beach, and guard the turtle sanctuary.

Where to Stay in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Airbnb and VRBOs are a ubiquitous option Los Cabos鈥擳odos Santos alone offers more than 200 VRBO listings and endless Airbnb rentals, from canvas tents to palatial beachfront haciendas.

Todos Santos:听At the end of a dirt road on isolated Punta Lobos beach, 3.5 miles south of town, the newly opened, 32-room 听is a throwback to simpler times, where guests gather around a bonfire at night to sip cervezas. The on-site restaurant serves locally harvested bounty, from fish caught earlier in the day to herbs and greens pulled from听nearby fields. From $270

Or check out听, which offers basic, clean eco-casitas, some with fully equipped kitchens, for their volunteers. From $60

Los Cabos:听, a 12-room boutique hotel, is a surprisingly inexpensive and peaceful oasis in the heart of Cabo. It was founded by a cyclist who rode his bike the length of the Baja Peninsula and loved Los Cabos so much that he founded the property in 1996. The walled courtyard and trellised bougainvillea are welcome respites from the action outside. From $70

Another great option is the听, the first Montage property to open outside the U.S. This luxurious and intimate new resort fronts a sandy crescent beach on Santa Maria Bay, which protects swimmers and snorkelers from the riptides and waves. There鈥檚 a 40,000-square-foot spa, but lounging by the exquisite infinity pool is a meditation unto itself. From $825

The East Cape and La Paz

Long the haunt of sea-loving luminaries like John Steinbeck and Jacques Cousteau, Baja鈥檚 Sea of Cortez on the east coast is a marine biologist鈥檚 dream. It鈥檚 also a wind machine from mid-November to early March for kiteboarders and windsurfers. The less traveled East Cape stretches from the marina of San Jos茅听del Cabo听some 90 miles north through Cabo Pulmo National Park to the gentrifying coastal villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana. Fifty miles farther north is La Paz; this city of 240,000 residents, with its hopping 尘补濒别肠贸苍, or seaside promenade, is the jumping-off point for the 244 protected听World Heritage site islands, the largest of which is Isla Esp铆ritu Santo. Drive 221 miles farther north and you鈥檒l find the 17th-century mission village of Loreto, the original point from which Jesuit priests set out to evangelize the peninsula, and San Ignacio Lagoon, the winter sanctuary of the eastern Pacific gray whale. The best way to access this part of the peninsula is to fly to San Diego, cross the border to the Tijuana airport, and book a flight directly to La Paz on a regional airline. The other option is to fly into Los Cabos International Airport and rent a car. Reliable shuttles like make multiple trips between the Los Cabos airport and La Paz daily.

What to Do in the East Cape and La Paz

Snorkeling and scuba diving at Cabo Pulmo National Marine Reserve: In the 1990s, local fishermen stopped commercial fishing to let the waters and reefs regenerate. Since then, the reefs have rebounded, biodiversity has increased more than fourfold, and every formerly endangered major species has rebounded. Experience the comeback by snorkeling with, owned by the descendents of Jesus Castro Fiol, a pearl diver who was born here in 1897 and was instrumental in creating the national marine reserve. The center鈥檚 two-and-a-half-hour tour (from $55) explores coral gardens and the sea life that lives in them. Go deeper with听, whose expert instructors offer diving at 14 sites, like the 45-foot deep听El Vencedor听wreck, and possible encounters with tiger and bull sharks at the coral reef La Esperanza (from $139).

Kiteboarding and windsurfing at Los Barriles and La Ventana: November through March, it鈥檚 not uncommon for 鈥�El Norte鈥� to howl down the coastline at almost 30 miles per hour, which is why the fishing villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana, 50 miles farther north, come alive with wind fanatics in the winter months. Based in the beachside听 (from $140),听 is a one-stop shop for kiteboarding, windsurfing, stand-up paddling, freediving, mountain biking, and, now, foiling. The laid-back little enclave offers special foiling clinics from world-champion pros like Daniela Moroz, updated equipment rental, and a community of like-minded souls. La Ventana has a long beach with a natural arc that, thanks to the wind direction, ensures even beginners will eventually wash ashore. The hotel, restaurant, and surf school听 is situated in the heart of the beach, which means instantaneous action when the wind blows. It听鈥揷ertified instruction for all levels, three-day camps, equipment rentals, or storage for surfers who bring their own gear.

Mountain biking at Rancho Cacachilas: Mountain bikers head to the hills at听, a solar-powered adventure resort that sprawls across 35,000 acres in the Sierra Cacachilas between La Ventana and La Paz. With 24 miles of existing and 43 miles of planned International Mountain Biking Association鈥搒anctioned singletrack on the ranch, the riding is designed for all skill levels and and offers great ocean views. There鈥檚 also 37 miles of trails for running and hiking, and the ranch offers sustainability-oriented classes like beekeeping, artisan cheesemaking, seed storage, and water collection.

Sea kayaking and snorkeling: La Paz has a three-mile-long seaside promenade that makes for fun people watching during a sunset stroll after dinner at听, a low-key seafood restaurant tucked into the marina with tables in the sand. Spend a night in the city, then launch into the Sea of Cortez to kayak, snorkel among听sea lions and whale sharks, and stretch out on the sand at one of many empty beaches.听 offers one-to-ten-day journeys from La Paz up to Loreto and over to the Pacific Ocean鈥檚 Magdalena Bay. Trips include everything from kayaking to whale-watching to hiking. To take a deep dive into outdoor leadership and personal communication skills, sign on to one of听鈥檚 three Baja adult expeditions, an eight-day coed or women-only coastal sailing expedition, or a seven-day women鈥檚 sea-kayaking expedition.

Surfing: The waves on听the Sea of Cortez are less consistent than the Pacific. Most breaks require a big south swell or a strong storm. If you hit the timing right, you鈥檒l find a nice, lonely right break at Nine Palms Beach in Santa Elena Bay, about an hour east of San Jos茅听del Cabo. BYO boards.

Hiking: This region of Baja has a rich human history that dates back at least 10,000 years. The aforementioned Sea Kayak 国产吃瓜黑料s offers a five-day journey from Loreto to the Sierra de San Francisco, where guests hike to visit many of the thousands of Unesco World Heritage cave paintings of people, deer, snakes, birds, and even whales. Another great day hike between La Paz and La Ventana that offers an opportunity to interact with locals is the old, partially cobblestoned Camino Real de Santa Ana, the route miners used for 300 years to transport precious metals north to San Diego. Start at the 听in El Triunfo, then hike roughly five miles along the Camino to the town of San Antonio, where local Adolfo de la Pe帽a, whose father was a miner, has started the the cooperative . You can book an appointment with Adolfo, who will guide you through the town鈥檚 mining history, complete with a hike to two nearby mines鈥攐ne of which is underground鈥攁nd the best local sites, including the home of Bertholita, who cooks visitors spicy empanadas and queso fresco, and a local art cooperative.

Where to Stay in the East Cape and La Paz

Cabo Pulmo:听 has various-size听villas and bungalows, all of them clean and colorful, some with full kitchens, and most within a few steps of the beach. From $89

La Ventana:听 has ten campsites and three RV sites for rent just 200 feet away from the beach, hot showers, and a washing machine. From $20

Rancho Cacachilas: , the rustic main lodging area at the ranch, has ten cabin tents in addition to six bunk rooms that sleep two people each, plus outdoor showers, composting toilets, and a central outdoor kitchen and gathering space. Or try Los Pisos, a ranch camp higher in the mountains that offers platform safari-style tents surrounding an outdoor kitchen. From $175 all-inclusive, minimum stay two nights; open October 1 to April 30

La Paz:听, within a few blocks of the promenade, is a delightful jumping-off point for Sea of Cortez adventures, with breakfast by the pool, a third-floor terrace with views to La Paz Bay, clean rooms, and cruiser bike rentals for $10 per day. From $55听

On the other end of the promenade, is located in the heart of La Paz鈥檚 historic district and within steps of chic new restaurants, like Marinera Poke and Seafood (try the gyozas del puerto and the pin-up margarita), and offers free breakfasts at a street-side caf茅听next door. From $73

How to Be Conscious in Baja

Go local: A common practice in Baja is for gringos to buy up rental properties, fishing charters, and yachts, then use them to provide under-the-table tourist services to other out-of-town 鈥渇riends鈥� without paying local taxes or using local guides. This depletes residents鈥� resources. Be sure any U.S-owned entities鈥攆rom fishing guides to hacienda owners鈥攁re doing fair and honest business that benefits the locals by providing training and income and puts money back into the communities. Better yet, look for locally owned businesses and guides, like Adolfo de la Pe帽a in San Antonio.

Speak the language: It鈥檚 always respectful to speak the language of the country you鈥檙e visiting, so study up on your rusty high school Spanish.

If camping, pack out what you pack in: Garbage collection isn鈥檛 always consistent, so keep it with you until you can find a place to properly dispose of it.

Be frugal with your water use: Baja Californians have the country’s听lowest availability of fresh water per inhabitant鈥�785 cubic meters per year鈥攚hen the Mexican听 national average is 4,200, according to data from the National Institute of Statistics, Geography and Information Technology. The lack of water will become a serious issue soon, especially if resort development remains unchecked. Be conscientious of your usage, and choose lodging and outfitters who are as well.

See marine life and other wildlife in an ethical way: Baja is one of the only places in the world guests can get within close proximity to gray whales after they鈥檝e birthed calves in the Sea of Cortez lagoons or humpback whales as they start to migrate north to cooler Pacific waters. The most ethical way to see these giants is with boat operators who give them wide berths and heed local rules, like obeying limits on the numbers of vessels allowed on the water at any given time.

Looped video (seen on the desktop version) by ianmcdonnell/Getty

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Living in a big city doesn鈥檛听mean you don鈥檛 have听access to the wild outdoors. The , an initiative within the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, manages 567 national wildlife refuges, including听101 听located within 25 miles of cities housing populations over 250,000鈥攕erving the 80 percent of Americans who live in and around metro areas.听We鈥檙e talking about massive plots of lands, immense networks of trails, and thriving biospheres听of animals and plants in 36 states, all within an hour of places听like Detroit or Birmingham, Alabama.

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

John Heinz

11 miles from the Liberty Bell

,听located within Philadelphia鈥檚 city limits, was our country鈥檚 first urban refuge, established in 1972. Known for听its focus on education, it enlists community members to听convert unused lots into urban-pollinator gardens and hosts听local听students听for in-the-field environmental courses and summer internships. There鈥檚 incredible wildlife spotting along the 285-acre freshwater tidal marsh,听including bald eagles, beavers, and deer. (You can borrow binoculars from the visitor听center for free.)听Or opt to听paddle a canoe down the 4.5-mile tidal segment of Darby Creek听or hike 10 miles of trails that traverse the site.

Albuquerque, New Mexico

Valle de Oro听

7 miles from the Albuquerque airport

Wildlife and habitat restoration are听priorities at听, set along the eastern banks of the Rio Grande just a few miles from downtown Albuquerque. Park staff are听currently teaching听the听ABQ Backyard Refuge Program, where people听learn how to rebuild habitats and garden to reintroduce听wildlife in their own backyards. The 570-acre swath听was created in 2012 on a former dairy farm, making it one of the country鈥檚 newest听urban wildlife sanctuaries and the first in the Southwest. Come for a visit and you鈥檒l score views of migratory birds, like snow geese and sandhill cranes, with听the Sandia Mountains听as a backdrop. There are also听guided walking tours on newly built trails听and stargazing sessions.

New Orleans, Louisiana

Bayou Sauvage听

46 miles from the French Quarter

If you want to spot American alligators close to New Orleans, head to the marshes of听鈥擩oe Madere Marsh is one of the best places for viewing this endemic species. You can learn about the importance of marshes and wetlands in protecting New Orleans from storm surges, fish for largemouth bass or catfish in its听freshwater lagoons and bayous,听or launch a canoe and听paddle the canals and small lakes that dot the property. Short boardwalk trails are also popular with hikers听and nature photographers. More recently, students from the University of New Orleans have been learning to plant trees and marsh grasses to help rebuild wetlands here.

San Diego, California

San Diego Bay听

13 miles from the San Diego Zoo

stretches over 12,300 acres, offering easy access to wilderness for the millions of residents in this听metropolitan area. The park has听trails for hiking and mountain biking, restored grasslands and oak woodlands that were once damaged by wildfire, and endangered butterflies and waterfowl that stop听over during their winter migrations. The 听facilitates听educational programs here, and the听San Diego听nonprofit organization , which connects local kids to outdoor activities, leads excursions听at the refuge like fishing, biking, and kayaking.

Portland, Oregon听

Tualatin River

15 miles from Powell鈥檚 City of Books

Just outside Portland, within the floodplain of the Tualatin River, you鈥檒l find a peaceful sanctuary in an otherwise busy urban area. The , southwest of听downtown, is a stopover for migrating waterfowl and songbirds on the Pacific Flyway and home to a number of mammals, including coyote, deer, and bobcat. Several miles of trails are open to hikers. In the fall,听admire the听changing foliage and migrating geese and swans. The park hosts well-loved events, like the annual Tualatin Bird Festival in the spring or youth-oriented programs听through , an organization that encourages wilderness education and community involvement for local schoolchildren.

Minneapolis, Minnesota

Minnesota Valley听

Less than 2 miles from the Mall of America

Smack in the middle of the Twin Cities, covers 14,000 lofty acres and 70 miles along the Minnesota River.听Paddle the waterway听in a canoe, or hike or run听46 miles of winding trails. The refuge hands out free loaner binoculars, fishing gear, and snowshoes at its听visitor听center,听and local kids can听borrow snow clothes and boots when they show up midwinter.听An on-site art gallery showcases nature-inspired work from hometown听and rotating artists.

Denver, Colorado

Rocky Mountain Arsenal听

14 miles from Mile High Stadium

Spot bison, deer, bald eagles, prairie dogs, songbirds, and endangered black-footed ferrets at the 15,000-acre, located between Denver International Airport and听downtown鈥檚听skyscrapers, with views of the Rocky Mountains. Hike the ten听miles of trails or motor along Wildlife Drive, an 11-mile loop where you can see bison and deer. Fishing is big here: there鈥檚 bass in听Lake Mary or Lake Ladora, as well as and an for those with disabilities.

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Despite being hailed by some bike advocates as a way of , the dockless e-bike experiment may be in trouble. Last week, Uber鈥檚 bike service, Jump, sent out an announcement to users in Atlanta and San Diego: The company was pulling all of its e-bikes from Atlanta by Friday, September 13, and from San Diego the following week.听

Uber, which acquired Jump in April 2018, is the newest major entrant to the dockless bike wave, following in the footsteps of Lime and Lyft, which both launched their dockless e-bike shares in early 2018. Jump, which at its peak operated in 23 North American cities,听has been in San Diego for a year, and Atlanta for only nine months. But this summer, Uber also ended its Jump operations in , and , raising questions about the long-term viability of private free-floating bike shares. In February, that it would pare back its bike program in favor of e-scooters. A spokesman for Lime told 国产吃瓜黑料 that doesn鈥檛 mean that bikes will disappear entirely鈥攈e points out that there are 4,500 still on the streets of Seattle, which doesn鈥檛 yet allow scooters鈥攂ut that the company has seen a shift in demand from customers. (Lime declined to provide usage rates for scooters versus bikes.)

In San Diego, Jump pulled both its e-bikes and e-scooters after tension with the local government, which implemented new rules and fees on free-floating bike shares in July. Jump responded to a request for comment with a statement saying that it hoped to resume service in the future and that it looked forward 鈥渢o working with the city to develop more sensible regulations.鈥� It declined to answer other questions.

In Atlanta, the relative popularity of e-scooters appears to be the reason for the decision. Eight companies, including Jump, offer scooters in the city, and that鈥檚 reduced interest in bikes. Julie Wells, the former general manager of the city鈥檚 public bike share program, says this is largely because of the city鈥檚 lacking bike infrastructure. 鈥淚t feels comfortable riding scooters on sidewalks, and there are no rules around them,鈥� she says. 鈥淏ut because people don鈥檛 think our roads are safe, they aren鈥檛 willing to ride the bikes.鈥� Wells says that the scooters are also less expensive to manufacture, and cheaper to maintain, which makes it more affordable for companies like Uber to put them on the streets.听

Some bike advocates see the loss of dockless bike shares as a blow鈥攖he e-bikes were a way to push cities for safer bike infrastructure, and the companies themselves at times acted as allies. For example, Lime shares usage data with cities to help them make more informed traffic decisions, according to a company spokesperson. And 鈥淯ber was committed to providing e-bikes as a great transportation option,鈥� says Andy Hanshaw, executive director of the San Diego County Bicycle Coalition, which partnered with Jump on education and outreach. 鈥淎 lot of people saw the e-bikes as an entry-level way into bike commuting.鈥� But Uber laid off many of its community outreach coordinators, along with other marketing positions, earlier this year, says Zoe Kircos, director of grants and partnerships with the advocacy group People for Bikes. (We reached out to Uber to confirm, but they declined to respond.)听

Dockless bike share companies have struggled with technical and political challenges. After a rash of complaints,听The Seattle Times and found that only half of Jump bikes and a quarter of Lime bikes were charged and rideable. Atlanta after dark following several instances in which drivers killed scooter riders. Guerrilla听tactics鈥攊n California, Bird e-scooters have been 鈥攈ave led to stricter penalties for all dockless companies. Haphazard parking of the bikes and scooters has also , who say that companies haven鈥檛 done enough to make sure sidewalks and crosswalk ramps remain clear.听

At the same time, Uber, which has expanded from ride shares to meal delivery to bikes in the past two years, reported a $1.3 billion operating loss in the second quarter of 2019, and has yet to turn a profit. A number of observers believe . It鈥檚 unclear if the pruning of Jump has to do with those financial challenges, but 鈥渢hat鈥檚 the question on everyone鈥檚 mind,鈥� says Kircos.

That e-scooters are apparently winning over e-bikes isn鈥檛 necessarily a negative from a bike advocacy perspective, Hanshaw says. Bike shares created momentum for infrastructure, and scooters can continue it. 鈥淚 see everyone from people in suits to tourists riding them,鈥� he says.

But while Wells听agrees that scooters might drive public support for safer streets, she adds that it will take time to engage scooter users鈥攚ho are typically younger and more diverse than bicycle advocates鈥攖oward this aim. 鈥淲hat we now have is a massive group of new people that we haven鈥檛 figured out how to tap into and mobilize,鈥� she says.

And some bike advocates are okay with the downfall of private dockless bike shares. Ryan Packer, a senior editor at the Urbanist, a Seattle website that emphasizes transit activism, says that public docked models like are preferable because they tend to serve more neighborhoods, and are more reliably stocked. Public bike shares can also and provide accessible pricing.听

At the same time, there might be lessons to be learned from private floating bike shares, Packer adds, pointing to Portland, Oregon鈥檚 Biketown program as an example. There, the publicly managed bike share takes a hybrid approach: bikes (not electric for now, though e-bikes are coming) can be locked anywhere, but through a combination of credits and fees, the city encourages users to leave them at docking stations. Packer believes that a bike share that acts in the public interest is still best run by a public entity. 鈥淥ther types of transportation are partly subsidized,鈥� Packer says, 鈥渟o why not bike shares?鈥澨�

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California鈥檚 Highway 1 is a perennial favorite for adventurous听road-trippers鈥攁nd for good reason. You can visit the sunny beaches of San Diego, the wine country of the central coast, the rugged cliffs of Big Sur, and the towering redwoods of Mendocino without ever leaving the road.听Sections of the iconic highway were closed听due to wildfire and mudslides for over a year, but these听reopened in July 2018 and the route听is听eager for visitors. Along the way, score dreamy campsites overlooking the Pacific Ocean or post up at the many revamped retro hotels that dot the route. Tackle the whole thing, or take it on piecemeal by planning a trip for one of the sections below.

Leg One

San Diego to Santa Barbara

Start from the southern end of Highway 1 in San Diego, where you鈥檒l find a thriving craft-beer scene, friendly surf breaks, and 65 miles of trails in the city鈥檚 1,200-acre听. Stay in 听(from $323), a听historic guesthouse on Coronado Island in the heart of San Diego Bay, and don鈥檛 miss the ever changing collection of small plates, like pork shoulder with bacon-braised lentils and black trumpet mushrooms, at the听award-winning restaurant 听in the city鈥檚 Harbor View neighborhood.

, near Newport Beach (south of Los Angeles), has oceanfront cottages and private rooms for rent starting at just $37 a night, or continue north and听hit听听in Huntington Beach听for mahi-mahi tacos, beer, and a surf session before checking into Malibu鈥檚听听(from $369), a revamped 1950s-era motel with wetsuits and surfboards for rent and a rooftop deck.听Near Santa Barbara, 听(from $179) is another renovated motel, this one with outdoor showers overlooking wine country and loaner mountain bikes for exploring the area鈥檚 miles of quality singletrack.

Leg Two

The Central Coast

Camp, sandboard, or drive ATVs on more than five miles of sand dunes in ,听and check out the history of skateboarding at the .听Then be sure to grab听a scoop of Harmony Valley Creamery ice cream at the legendary Thursday-night 听in San Luis Obispo. The (from $445) opens in June, or check out the town鈥檚 eccentric 听(from $109), where you can stay in a rock-lined room designed to mimic the granite walls of Yosemite.

Instead of continuing north on Highway 1, make a听short detour inland听to visit the wineries that surround听Paso Robles听in addition to a new multi-acre听installation听from artist Bruce Munro called , where you can wander听among 58,800 solar-powered spheres that light up the night. Back on route, spot elephant seals on the beach in the seaside听village of听Cambria, and book a tour of 听in San Simeon to take in the art, gardens, and free-roaming zebras that were once part of William Randolph Hearst鈥檚 private zoo.

Leg Three

Big Sur to San Francisco

Stop off in听听and you鈥檒l find a secluded beach and views of the Big Sur coast.听Then hike the trails and pitch a tent in , which should reopen听sometime this summer after a storm damaged it in early February. From there, it鈥檚 just an hour north to Big Sur proper and the surf breaks at Sand Dollar Beach. If you鈥檙e in search of some luxe accommodations, opt for a safari-style tent nestled in a redwood forest at 听(from $450), which overlooks the ocean and has Japanese-inspired hot baths and a gallery featuring the works of local artists. Can鈥檛-miss听eats in the area include the cookies at 听and the听Ambrosia burger on the outdoor patio at听.

On your way north toward San Francisco, , in the charming one-square-mile town of Carmel-by-the-Sea, has espresso and surprisingly good ramen bowls, and there鈥檚 quality mountain biking in Santa Cruz鈥檚 , just south of San Francisco. Don鈥檛 miss the freshly baked artichoke bread at 听in the old fishing town of Pescadero, just off Highway 1, and the sunset from听.

Leg Four

Mill Valley to Mendocino

Once Highway 1 crosses the Golden Gate Bridge, you鈥檒l be treated to vast stretches of empty, jagged coastline and little towns worth long听pit stops. Start with a mountain-bike ride or a trail run with ocean views in ,听north of Muir Beach, where mountain biking first got its start. There鈥檚 a well-loved surf break in Bolinas鈥攁nd good beta and gear at the town鈥檚 , which rents boards and offers lessons鈥攊f you can find the turnoff for this . Fuel up with tasty tacos in an old lifeguard tower at听听in Stinson Beach.

In Guerneville, 听(from $190) rents decked-out Airstreams for a night along the Russian River and provides canoes for a mellow paddle. Or book yourself into the 听(from $189), which has recently renovated rooms on a rocky bluff above the sea. In Mendocino, 听rents paddleboards and bikes and offers guided boat tours on outrigger canoes up the Big River, which flows into Mendocino Bay. From there the highway continues along the coast for a few dozen miles before turning inland to join Highway 101.

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