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I found big adventure and warm weather in these national-park units spread across the Southeast and Southwest

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These Are the 7 Best National Parks to Visit for Spring Break

Planning spring break is high pressure. You only get a one-week respite from school or work, and the timing, late March or early April, makes it tough to find a location with consistently good weather. Those months could offer spring ski conditions or prime surf weather鈥攐r not.

More than a few times, I鈥檝e had to pivot at the last minute, having thought it would be warm enough for family surfing on the Outer Banks for spring break and then found temperatures in the low 50s. We moved our vacation further south.

Yes, south is the operative word. So relax, because I鈥檝e found seven national-park units in the Southeast and Southwest that offer gorgeous landscapes, many days鈥 worth of adventures, and just-about-guaranteed warm weather for the perfect spring break trip.

1. Cumberland Island National Seashore, Georgia

Best for: Swimming, Camping, and Contemplating History

Average Temperatures in March and April: Highs from mid 70s to mid 80s

seashells and empty beaches at Cumberland Island National Seashore
A bounty of seashells on Cumberland Island National Seashore, a barrier island shrouded in history (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Cumberland Island is wild. The largest barrier island off the coast of Georgia, Cumberland is a 17-mile-long, 36,000-acre swath of pristine beaches, tall dunes, maritime forests, fresh lakes, and marshy canals. Even though the Carnegie family once owned the island, and descendants still have some private property, Cumberland protects almost 10,000 acres of federally designated wilderness. The only way to reach the island is by a 45-minute ($20 one way) or private boat, and once you鈥檙e there the only way to get around is by foot or bike on hiking trails and 50 miles of sandy roads.

dirt road Cumberland Island National Seashore
No joke that this place is wild. This dirt road in the maritime forest of Cumberland Island is the main drive, and otherwise you travel on foot or bike.聽(Photo: Courtesy NPS)

The island has no stores, so bring everything you鈥檒l need, and be prepared to pack it all back out. You鈥檒l see some ruins from a Victorian-era mansion built in 1884 as a winter home for Thomas Carnegie, as well as the remnants of a freedmen鈥檚 community of former slaves. You may spot members of the colony of feral horses that still roam the island, which are likely descendants of the horses brought over by the British during the War of 1812.

As for beaches, Cumberland offers 15 miles of undeveloped sand and dunes facing the Atlantic. For solitude, keep heading north away from the docks until you reach a patch of sand that鈥檚 too far for day-trippers to claim. It鈥檚 tough to find this much raw beach on the East Coast, so soak it in. The Atlantic is rough, but fine for swimming. Stay out of the marshes on the west side of the island, as they鈥檙e popular hangouts for alligators.

Where to Stay: is an all-inclusive hotel operating in one of the Carnegies鈥 former vacation homes (from $895 a night), but most visitors . Sea Camp has bathrooms and showers and allows fires (from $22 a night). Stafford Beach is more remote, requiring a three-mile hike from the docks, and it, too, has bathrooms with showers (from $12 a night). Book your spot early, up to six months in advance.

2. Big Bend National Park, Texas

Best for: Hiking, Biking, Climbing, Canoeing, Stargazing

Average Temperatures in March and April: Low to high 70s

Chisos Mountains, Big Bend National Park
A summer shower passes through the Chisos Mountains, Big Bend National Park, Texas. These mountains are considered the heart of the park, with many of the best hikes in the region, particularly in summer when the high elevation offers cool temps. (Photo: Gary Nored/AnEyeForTexas)

The 800,000-acre Big Bend National Park has been a spring-break destination for decades. My mother-in-law still talks fondly about spending college spring breaks camping there during the 1960s.

Late March and early April are the busiest times to visit the park. But 鈥渃rowded鈥 is a relative term; I hit the place a few years ago at the end of March and never felt overwhelmed or discouraged by other visitors, mainly because the park and its neighboring Big Bend Ranch State Park are so large. I hiked, rode my bike, camped, and enjoyed the 鈥淔ar West Texas鈥 vibe of it all.

The Big Bend landscape is straight out of a Western, with its vistas of canyons, the towering Chisos Mountains, and big stretches of rocky desert. It鈥檚 a great place to explore by boot, bike, or boat, an ideal multi-sport national-park trip.

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Hikers should tackle the 5.5-mile out and back Window Trail, which descends 1,000 feet from the Chisos Trailhead, at 5,400 feet elevation, through Oak Creek Canyon to a sheer drop-off framed by towering cliffs. Be prepared (and take water) for the steady climb back to the trailhead. Depending on recent storms, there could be a small stream in the center of the canyon, but the trail is still navigable. Subject to changes in the water level, you can paddle a 20-mile section of the Rio Grande through Santa Elena Canyon, which narrows to 100 feet wide, with limestone cliffs blotting out the sun. The area has been in a drought for the last couple of years, so spring trips aren鈥檛 guaranteed, but check with for water levels and trip options (from $160 per person).

 

 

 

Rio Grande Angell Expeditions video by Taylor Reilly

Just outside the national park is , with its bounty of mountain biking, where you can pedal to a backcountry oasis and through a slope filled with sparkling gemstones. Regardless of what you do, at the end of the day you must soak in the historic hot springs that are carved out of the Rio Grande.

octillo plant in Big Bend area
Octillo blazes red in fall in Big Bend Ranch State Park, Big Bend area, Texas (Photo: Gary Nored/AnEyeForTexas)

Where to Stay: Chisos Mountain Lodge inside the park has 72 rooms, a restaurant, and a general store (from $170 a night). has 60 sites up almost a mile high in elevation; make reservations up to six months in advance ($16 a night).

3. Death Valley National Park, California

Best for Cycling, Hiking, Stargazing

Average Temps in March and April: Highs from 65 to 75

lake in Death Valley National Park
In Death Valley National Park, rains can create ephemeral lakes on the salt flats. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

It would be borderline crazy to visit Death Valley National Park in the summertime, but in early spring, the temperatures are chef鈥檚-kiss perfect. Visitors in spring may also have the huge bonus of seeing the wildflowers pop off, particularly in the lower elevations, in fields of desert gold, poppies, and verbena. If you鈥檙e really into hitting the park during peak flower power, watch the rangers鈥 on which wildflowers are blooming throughout spring and summer.

Also cool: the park is home to one of the world鈥檚 rarest fish, the Devils Hole pupfish, an endangered species found only in a water cavern in Devils Hole here. The pupfish are visible during the annual spring migration as they move within the hole seeking warmth from direct sunlight. Scientists counted 191 of them last April, the highest count in 25 years.

You don鈥檛 need to be a cyclist to enjoy Death Valley鈥攖here are plenty of hiking trails鈥攂ut two wheels is a hell of a way to explore this landscape, with 785 miles of roads open to bikes. Cruise through otherworldly terrain like salt flats, expansive sand dunes, and red-rock formations, before climbing into mountains of up to 11,000 feet.

starry skies at Death Valley National Park
Death Valley National Park is an International Dark Sky Park. Come see the skies. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Artist鈥檚 Drive, a paved nine-mile one-way loop, is the park鈥檚 signature ride. It climbs from below sea level to 880 feet above it, offering views of the surrounding moon-like white sands and mountains on the horizon. At the crest, you鈥檒l be surrounded by pink and tan hills, which narrow to canyon-like proportions on the fun downhill to finish the loop. To give you a sense of the terrain, parts of the Star Wars franchise were filmed off this road.

Where to Stay: If you鈥檙e looking for nice digs, will put you in the heart of the action, and with a pool (from $507 a night). is the best developed campground in the park, with 136 sites on the valley floor and mountain views. Book up to six months in advance (from $30 a night).

4. White Sands National Park, New Mexico

Best for Hiking and Sand Sledding

Average Temperatures in March and April: 70 to 80

Sand dunes at sunrise, White Sands National Park
Sunrise highlights the white sand dunes and far San Andres Mountains at White Sands National Park, New Mexico, established as a national monument in 1933 and receiving the further designation only in 2019. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

One of the newest national parks (established in 2019), White Sands isn鈥檛 huge, just 175,000 acres, but it protects half of the world鈥檚 largest gypsum-crystal field. The dunes roll through the Tularosa Basin like bright white waves, creating a landscape unlike anything else on this planet. You can see the San Andres Mountains on the horizon beyond the park, but it鈥檚 the sloping dunes that will mesmerize you.

father and daughter sled on Great Sand Dunes
If you walk up, you will be able to sled down. A father and daughter will remember the slide at Great Sand Dunes National Park, New Mexico. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

The eight-mile Dunes Drive scenic road delivers you into the center of the dunes from the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle, and the road also accesses the park鈥檚 five different hiking trails. The Dune Life Nature Trail is an easy one-mile loop that serves as a good intro to the landscape. But if you really want to dig into the dunes, hike the five-mile , which traces the edge of an ancient lake that has been replaced by the waves of dunes. You鈥檒l climb and descend 60-foot sandy mounds throughout.

full moon night concert
Full-moon night concert, White Sands National Park, New Mexico (Photo: NPS)

If you can time it right, hit the park on a , when White Sands is open into the night, and ranger-led programs include guided hikes. And definitely bring a sled (or buy one in the park gift shop). The dunes at the are open to sledding, and the gypsum hills behave exactly like snow slopes.

Where to Stay: There is currently no camping inside the park: its backcountry campsites are closed for rehabilitation, with no timeline as to when they will be in service. The town of Alamogordo, 15 miles east of the park, has a variety of chain hotels.

 

 

5. Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida and Mississippi

Best for Island Hopping, Swimming, Surfing, Fishing, Birdwatching

Average Temperatures in March and April: Low to mid 70s

white sand dunes and sunset sky at Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida
White quartz sand dunes glow in the light of sunset along the Gulf of Mexico at Gulf Islands National Seashore, Santa Rosa County, Florida. With clear water and bright sand, the beach is excellent for swimming and fishing. (Photo: Marica van der Meer/Arterra/Universal Images Group/Getty)

A lot of people have discovered the Gulf Islands National Seashore. In 2023, visitation jumped 40 percent, from 5.7 million to 8.2 million people, making this unit the fifth-most-visited in the park service. People are showing up for the white-sand beaches on the mainland and for barrier islands that you can only reach by boat. The national seashore is made up of a series of parks, beaches, and islands, split between Florida and Mississippi, and all surrounded by clear, aqua-blue waters that are home to gopher tortoises, bottlenose dolphins, starfish, crabs鈥nd the 300 species of birds that migrate through the area.

The easiest island to reach is Ship, 12 miles off the coast and accessible by regular from Gulfport and Biloxi ($44 per person, round trip). Once you鈥檙e on the island, you can explore the historic fort, lounge on the beaches, or swim in the Gulf. The recreation area is fully developed with concessions and restrooms, so it鈥檚 a convenient getaway.

woman paddleboarding, Gulf Islands National Seashore
Liz Averill goes paddleboarding in the waters of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Visitors also canoe, kayak, fish, and camp. (Photo: Graham Averill)

If you鈥檙e looking for something wilder, consider venturing to , an eight-mile-long barrier island protected as a federally designated Wilderness area, so there are no commercial ferries to the island and no facilities on the ground. But if you have your own boat or want to hire a charter (from $675 at ), you鈥檒l find an island ringed with sugar-white sand beaches and grassy dunes, while pine trees and lagoons pack the interior. Mind the occasional alligator.

pelican flies over Opal Beach, Gulf Island National Seashore
A brown pelican rides the air currents above Opal Beach, Gulf Island National Seashore, Navarre, Florida. The national seashore is known for its birdwatching. (Photo: Courtesy Owens/NPS)

Where to Stay: The campground, on the mainland near the town of Ocean Springs, sits inside a maritime forest, with marshes and fishing docks ($25 a night, book six months in advance). You鈥檙e also allowed to on the beach on a few of the barrier islands (Petit Bois, West Petit Bois, and Horn Island) inside the park, but stay off the dunes and any vegetation, don鈥檛 bring any mechanical devices (ie, no coolers with wheels), and be prepared for a true wilderness experience, as there are no facilities.

6. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah and Arizona

Best for Boating, Swimming, Hiking

Average Temperatures in March and April: Highs from 60 to 69

smiling woman and friends packrafting in Glen Canyon
Lizzy Scully, left, packrafting guide, smiles while balancing, yes, a bike on her boat on a trip in Glen Canyon. On the right is Steve “Doom” Fassbinder. The two own Four Corners Guides, a multi-sport outfit based in Mancos, Colorado. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Glen Canyon protects the incredible 1.25 million acres of land and water where the Colorado River pours into Lake Powell. The blue water of the lake contrasts sharply with the red and pink sandstone walls that rise directly from the edge, and the lake has countless fingers and canyons to explore by boat.

The water levels of Powell are constantly shifting, and have generally been in decline the last 20 years. Check the park site鈥檚 to make sure the boat ramp or launch you have in mind is operational. The lake was low when I visited a few years ago on a biking and paddle trip, and we had to contend with some mud on the banks, but the place was no less stunning.

The Antelope Point ramp typically has the least boat traffic, so it鈥檚 conducive to use of kayaks or canoes. From there, you can head south on the lake for a mile and paddle into Antelope Canyon, a narrow slot canyon that鈥檚 also a no-wake (no motorboating) zone. Under normal water levels, you can follow the creek upstream for about a mile. offers rental kayaks (from $75 a day). You can also launch directly from the beaches at Lone Rock Beach and Stanton Creek and explore the lake surrounding those alcoves.

Camping on the banks of Glen Canyon
Cheers! Pretty hard to beat camp beers in Glen Canyon, Utah. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Off the water, an easy 1.25-mile hike leads to one of the overlooks at , where the Colorado River takes a drastic turn around a massive sandstone escarpment.

Where to Stay: All inside the recreation area are first-come, first-served. Lees Ferry Campground has 54 sites, potable water, and restrooms ($26 a night). Lone Rock Beach has primitive sites on a sandy beach right next to the water ($14 per night).

7. Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument, Arizona

Best for Overlanding, Hiking, and Seeking Solitude

Average Temperatures in March and April: High 50s to mid 60s

river canyon of Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument
Established in 2000, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument is operated by the National Park Service and Bureau of Land Management. Once the land of the Southern Paiute and other groups, it contains burial sites, art panels, and other troves, also old mining and homestead sites and ruins. It offers solitude, camping, hiking, and dark skies. (Photo: Courtesy R. Seely/NPS)

The Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument is primitive. This Northern Arizona park has no facilities, no campgrounds, and no paved roads. Instead, visitors are treated to the sights of 1 million acres of expansive plateaus, rugged canyons, and Mojave Desert, all traversed by a series of unimproved dirt roads and hiking trails. In other words, this monument is ideal for self-contained overlanding. I spent three days cruising Grand Canyon-Parashant in a side-by-side with a rooftop tent, while hiking and biking at various spots throughout, and was as mesmerized by the solitude as the grandeur of the landscape.

overlanders camp at Grand Canyon Parashant
Overlanders converge at Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument, which is stacked with backcountry dirt roads and scenic viewpoints. (Photo: Graham Averill)

If you have a high-clearance 4WD vehicle, the monument is yours to explore. The park service details an 80-mile adventure to that cruises through a variety of terrain, from cattle fields to ponderosa forests, and ends on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. If you choose this route, you鈥檒l also have the chance to get out and stretch your legs on the Burnt Canyon Trail, an easy three-mile out-and-back on a grassy road bed that leads to a big view of the western edge of the Grand Canyon. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Mount Charleston, just outside of Las Vegas.

I took a roundabout, multi-day route to reach , with its long view into the Canyon, and an optional side hike down to the water. The last seven miles to Whitmore Point drop 1,500 feet over rocky, rutted terrain that was super fun to bomb on a mountain bike. The fastest way to this perch is a 50-mile traverse from Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse.

Where to Stay: Primitive camping is allowed throughout the monument, but if you鈥檙e looking for a bit of refinement in the midst of all this rugged adventure, the has hotel rooms and covered wagons on an inholding close to the northern rim of the Grand Canyon. It鈥檚 only accessible by a 70-mile dirt-road drive through the national monument or an airplane (the place has its own landing strip), but once you鈥檙e there, you鈥檒l be able to refuel your vehicle and have a damn fine dinner (starting at $172 a night).

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national-parks columnist. Every year, he agonizes over how to maximize his kids鈥 spring break, dragging them to campsites in Florida, beaches in South Carolina, and lakes all over the Southeast. He recently wrote about hiking in Joshua Tree National Park and his absolute favorite mountain town on the East Coast. His latest article is all about visiting national parks for free.

Graham Averill, author
Graham Averill on-site at Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument (Photo: Graham Averill Collection)

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The Worst Kind of Type 2 Fun in the Arctic /adventure-travel/essays/into-the-thaw-jon-waterman-excerpt/ Tue, 22 Oct 2024 12:00:22 +0000 /?p=2684071 The Worst Kind of Type 2 Fun in the Arctic

In an excerpt from his new book, 鈥業nto the Thaw,鈥 Jon Waterman vividly depicts one of his most painful expedition moments ever

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The Worst Kind of Type 2 Fun in the Arctic

More than 40 years ago, the then park ranger Jon Waterman took his first journey to Alaska鈥檚 Noatak River. Captivated by the profusion of wildlife, the rich habitat, and the unfamiliar landscape, he spent years kayaking, packrafting, skiing, dogsledding, and backpacking in Arctic North America鈥攐ften alone for weeks at a time. After three decades away from the Noatak, he returned with his 15-year-old son, Alistair, in 2021 to find a flooded river and a scarcity of the once abundant caribou. The Arctic had warmed nearly four times faster than the rest of the world.

The next year, 2022, Waterman took a last journey to document the changes. The following is excerpted and adapted from his prologue in Into the Thaw: Witnessing Wonder amid the Arctic Climate Crisis (Patagonia Books, November 12).

A former ranger in Rocky Mountain听补苍诲 Denali national parks, Waterman is the author of 17 books, including (National Geographic Books), In the Shadow of Denali, Kayaking the Vermilion Sea, Running Dry, and Arctic Crossing. He has made five films about adventure and wild places.

 

Jon Waterman kayaking among icebergs in the arctic
Jon Waterman among icebergs at the end of his 2,200-mile journey across the Arctic in September 1999. (Photo: Jon Waterman Collection)

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The below is adapted from Into the Thaw: Witnessing Wonder amid the Arctic Climate Crisis.

A Certain Type of Fun, July 10-12, 2022

Noatak Headwaters
In eventually reaching the Noatak Headwaters and passing through different ecosystems, Waterman and Chris Korbulic, his partner on the 2022 journey, will see stands of fireweed, known to colonize areas recently burned in wildfires. (Photo: Chris Korbulic)

My hands, thighs, and calves have repeatedly locked up in painful dehydration cramps, undoubtedly caused by our toil with leaden packs in eighty-degree heat up the steep streambed or its slippery, egg-shaped boulders. After my water bottle slid out of an outside pack pocket and disappeared amid one of several waist-deep stream fords or in thick alders yesterday, I carefully slide the bear spray can (looped in a sling around my shoulders) to the side so it doesn鈥檛 get knocked out of its pouch, an action I will come to regret. Now, to slake my thirst, I submerge my head in Kalulutok Creek like a water dog.

Kalulutok Creek would be called a river in most parts of the world. Here in Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, amid the largest span of legislated wilderness in the United States, it鈥檚 just a creek compared to the massive Noatak River that we鈥檙e bound for. But in my mind鈥攁fter we splash-walked packrafts and forded its depths at least 30 times yesterday鈥擪alulutok will always be an ice-cold, wild river.

Chris Korbulic surveys the Noatak headwaters valley in smoke and haze
Chris Korbulic surveys the Noatak headwaters valley, increasingly overgrown with shrubs and hazed by wildfire smoke; over 3 million acres burned in Alaska in 2022. (Photo: Jon Waterman)

It drains the Endicott and Schwatka Mountains, which are filled with the most spectacular granite and limestone spires of the entire Brooks Range. One valley to the east of us is sky-lined with sharp, flinty peaks called the Arrigetch, or 鈥渇ingers of the outstretched hand鈥 in I帽upiaq.

As the continent鈥檚 most northerly mountains, the sea-fossil-filled Brooks Range鈥攚ith more than a half-dozen time-worn peaks over 8,000 feet high鈥攊s seen on a map as the last curl of the Rocky Mountains before they stairstep into foothills and coastal plains along the Arctic Ocean. The Brooks Range stretches 200 miles south to north and 700 miles to the east, where it jabs into Canada. Although there are more than 400 named peaks, since the Brooks Range is remote and relatively untraveled, it鈥檚 rare that anyone bothers to climb these mountains. My river-slogger companion, Chris, and I will be exceptions.

Chris Korbulic and Jon Waterman fly into Brooks Range in bush plane
Chris Korbulic (front) and Jon Waterman fly into Walker Lake on the south side of the Brooks Range, in early July 2022. (Photo: Chris Korbulic)

We carry a water filter, but it would be silly to use it. We鈥檙e higher and farther north than giardiasis-infected beavers and there is no sign of caribou. The creek is fed from the pure ice of shrunken glaciers above and ancient permafrost in the ground below. In what seems like prodigious heat for the Arctic, the taps here are all wide-open.

Inuit man and sled dogs
An Inuit man praises his qimmiq (Eskimo husky) on the sea ice in Elu Inlet Nunavut, Canada, in May 1999. The qimmiq has served for 4,500 years of travel across the Arctic but is now threatened with extinction by snowmachines. (Photo: Jon Waterman)

Thirty-nine years ago, I decided to learn all I could about life above the Arctic Circle. As a climber, I traded my worship of high mountains for the High Arctic. I felt that unlike the study of crevasse extrication and avalanche avoidance鈥攜ou couldn鈥檛 just read about the Arctic or sign up for courses. You have to go on immersive journeys and figure out how the interlocked parts of the natural world fit together. Along this path, acts of curiosity out on the land and the water can open an earned universe of wonders. But you must spend time in the villages, too, with the kindhearted people of the North to make sure you get it right. And you can鈥檛 call the Arctic 鈥渢he Far North鈥濃攊t is 鈥渉ome鈥 rather than 鈥渇ar鈥 to the many people who live there.

Jon Waterman, sleds, sled dog in Arctic
The author on the sea ice outside the village of Tuktoyaktuk, the Northwest Territories in April 1998, with his dog Elias, preparing to set out on a long solo journey across the Northwest Passage. (Photo: Jon Waterman Collection)

So, after twoscore of Arctic journeys, in the summer of 2022, I鈥檓 on one more trip. I could not be on such an ambitious trip without all the previous experiences. (The more I learn, it sometimes feels like the less I know about the Arctic.)

But this time the agenda is different. I hope to understand the climate crisis better.

Chris Korbulic and I are here to document it however we can. Since my first trip above the Arctic Circle in 1983, I have seen extraordinary changes in the landscape. Only three days underway and we鈥檝e already flown over a wildfire to access our Walker Lake drop-off point. And yesterday we trudged underneath several bizarre, tear-drop-shaped landslide thaw slumps鈥攁.k.a. thermokarsts鈥攃aused by the permafrost thaw.

packrafting in Gates of the Arctic National Park
Beneath multiple thermokarst landslides caused by permafrost thaw, the author and his friend tow packrafts up Kalulutok Creek in Gates of the Arctic National Park to avoid bushwhacking in the valley, now overgrown with brush. (Photo: Chris Korbulic)

In much of Alaska, the Arctic Monitoring and Assessment Programme (AMAP) says that permafrost thaw from 2005 to 2010 has caused the ground to sink more than four inches, and in places to the north of us, twice that. The land collapses as the permafrost below it thaws, like logs pulled out from beneath a woodpile. AMAP believes this will amount to a 鈥渓arge-scale degradation of near-surface permafrost by the end of the twenty-first century.鈥 Roads and buildings and pipelines鈥攁long with hillsides, I帽upiat homes, forests, and even lakes鈥攚ill fall crazily aslant, or get sucked into the ground as if taken by an earthquake.

village of Kivalina, Alaska
The Alaskan village of Kivalina鈥攄oomed, like many I帽upiat villages, Waterman observes鈥攊s surrounded by the Chukchi Sea and the lagoon fed by the polluted Kivalina and Wulik Rivers. (Photo: Chris Korbulic)

On this remote wilderness trip, we don鈥檛 expect a picnic鈥攌nown as Type 1 Fun to modern-day adventurers. A journey across the thaw on foot and by packraft for 500-plus miles won鈥檛 resemble a backcountry ski trip or a long weekend backpack on Lower 48 trails. We have planned for Type 2 Fun: an ambitious expedition that will make us suffer and give us the potential to extend ourselves just enough that there will be hours, or even days, that won鈥檛 seem like fun until much later when we鈥檙e back home. Then our short-circuited memories will allow us to plan the next trip as if nothing went wrong on this one. An important part of wilderness mastery is to avoid Type 3 Fun: a wreckage of accidents, injuries, near-starvation, or rescue. We鈥檝e both been on Type 3 Fun trips that we鈥檇 rather forget.

Chris Korbulic kayaking in Arctic North
Chris Korbulic paddles on the vast Noatak River in the most recent expedition, two years ago. (Photo: Jon Waterman )

Today, to get Chris, a caffeine connoisseur, to stop, I simply utter, 鈥淐offee?鈥 His face lights up as he throws off his pack and pulls out the stove. I pull out the fuel bottle. Since Chris isn鈥檛 a conversational bon vivant, I鈥檝e learned not to ask too many questions, but a cup of coffee might stimulate a considerate comment or two about the weather. As I fire up the trusty MSR stove with a lighter, we crowd around and toast our hands over the hot windscreen as if it鈥檚 our humble campfire. We鈥檙e cold and wet with sweat and we shiver in the wind. But at least we鈥檙e out of the forest-fire smoke鈥攖his summer more than two million acres have burned in dried-out Alaska.

Chris Korbulic paddling on Noatak River
Chris Korbulic is able to ditch his giant pack inside the packraft here on the Noatak River headwaters alongside Tupik Creek (Photo: Jon Waterman)

Today, with the all-day uphill climb and inevitable back-and-forth route decisions through the gorge ahead, we鈥檒l be lucky to trudge even five miles to the lake below the pass. Why, I ask myself, as Chris puts on his pack and shifts into high gear, could we not have simply flown into the headwaters of the Noatak River instead of crossing the Brooks Range to get here? I heave on my pack and wonder how I鈥檒l catch Chris, already far ahead.

Shards of caribou bones and antlers lie on the tundra as ghostly business cards of a bygone migration, greened with mold, and minutely chiseled and mined for calcium by tiny vole teeth. We kick steps across a snowfield, then work our way down a steep, multicolored boulderfield, whorled red and peppered with white quartz unlike any rocks I鈥檝e seen before. As rain shakes out of the sky like Parmesan cheese from a can, we weave in and out of leafy alder thickets while I examine yet another fresh pile of grizzly feces. I stop to pick apart the scat and thumb through stems and leaves and root pieces. This griz appears to be on a vegetarian diet.

鈥淗ey, bear!鈥 We yell the old cautionary refrain again and again until we鈥檙e hoarse. I hold tight to the pepper spray looped over my shoulder to keep it from grabby alder branches.

grizzly bear among flowers
A male grizzly (brown bear) grazes like a cow amid willow and fireweed. Several thousand grizzlies roam throughout Alaska. (Photo: Jon Waterman)

A half mile farther the route dead-ends so we鈥檙e forced to descend into the gorge again. With Chris 20 yards behind, I plunge step down through a near-vertical slope of alders and play Tarzan for my descent as I hang onto a flexible yet stout branch, and swing down a short cliff into another alder thicket. A branch whacks me in the chest and knocks off the pepper-spray safety plug. When I swing onto the ground, I get caught on another branch that depresses the trigger in an abrupt explosion that shoots straight out from my chest in a surreal orange cloud. Instinctively I hold my breath and close my eyes and continue to shimmy downward, but I know I鈥檓 covered in red-hot pepper spray.

When I run out of breath, I squint, keep my mouth closed, breathe carefully through my nose, and scurry out of the orange capsaicin cloud. Down in a boulderfield that pulses with a stream, I open my mouth, take a deep breath, and yell to Chris that I鈥檓 O.K. as I strip off my shirt and try to wring it out in the stream. I tie the contaminated shirt on the outside of my pack and put on a sweater. My hands prickle with pepper.

Then we鈥檙e off again. As we clamber up steep scree to exit the gorge, my lips, nasal passages, forehead, and thighs burn from the pepper. The pepper spray spreads from my thighs to my crotch like a troop of red ants, but I can hardly remove my pants amid the incoming storm clouds and wind. With the last of the alders below us, we enter the alpine world above the tree line. By the time we reach the lake, the drizzle has become a steady rain. I鈥檓 nauseous and overheated underneath my rain jacket with the red pepper spray that I wish I had saved for an aggressive bear instead of a self-douche. Atop wet tundra that feels like a sponge underfoot, we pitch the Megamid tent with a paddle lashed to a ski pole and guy out the corners with four of the several million surrounding boulders left by the reduction of tectonic litter.

lake and wildflowers seen from the pass above the Noatak headwaters
Boykinia, one of many protein-rich plants that bears eat, bloom alongside the lake camp on the pass above the Noatak headwaters. (Photo: Jon Waterman)

I fire up the stove and boil the water, and we inhale four portions of freeze-dried pasta inside the tent. We depart from wilderness bear decorum to cook outside and away from the tent because it鈥檚 cold and we鈥檙e tired. Chris immediately heads out with his camera. His eyes are watery from just being within several feet of me.

I鈥檝e been reduced like this before鈥攚ounded and exhausted and temporarily knocked off my game. So, I tell myself that this too will pass, that I鈥檒l get in gear and regain my mojo. That maybe, I can eventually get my shy partner to loosen up and talk. That we will discover an extraordinary new world鈥攖he headwaters of the Noatak River鈥攆rom up on the pass in the morning. And that I will find a way to withstand my transformation into a spicy human burrito.

Snow feels likely tonight. It’s mid-July, yet winter has slid in like a glacier over the Kalulutok Valley.

I am too brain-dead to write in my journal, too physically wiped out and overheated in the wrong places to even think of a simple jaunt through the flowers to see the view that awaits us. I pull down my orange-stained pants and red underwear, grab a cup filled with ice water. I try not to moan as I put in my extra-hot penis and let it go numb.

Type 2 Fun for sure.

Into the Thaw book jacket
Into the Thaw: Witnessing Wonder Amid the Arctic Climate Crisis (Patagonia Books)

Jon Waterman lives in Carbondale, Colorado. An all-round adventurer, he has climbed the famous Cassin Ridge on Denali in winter; soloed the Northwest Passage; sailed to Hawaii picking up microplastics; dogsledded into and up Canada鈥檚 Mount Logan; and run the Colorado River 1,450 miles from source to sea. He is a recipient of the National Endowment for the Arts Literature Fellowship and three grants from the National Geographic Society Expeditions Council. Into the Thaw is available to purchase from Patagonia Books and for pre-order on Amazon for November 19.

Jon Waterman., author, conservationist
The author, Jon Waterman, in the field (Photo: Chris Korbulic )

For more by this author:

A Former National Park Ranger Reveals His Favorite Wild Places in the U.S.

The post The Worst Kind of Type 2 Fun in the Arctic appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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The Best Ways to Get 国产吃瓜黑料 in West Virginia /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/adventure-guide-west-virginia/ Sun, 14 Jul 2024 14:00:21 +0000 /?p=2673594 The Best Ways to Get 国产吃瓜黑料 in West Virginia

West Virginia has it all: mountains, rivers, 36 state parks, nine state forests, our newest national park, and a nearly million-acre national forest. Our travel expert reveals his favorite ways to get outside there.

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The Best Ways to Get 国产吃瓜黑料 in West Virginia

The zigzagging route to the top of the South Peak of Seneca Rocks鈥攖he high point on a 900-foot-tall ridge of Tuscarora quartzite shaped like fins on a dragon鈥檚 back鈥攚as the most challenging climb I have ever done. Vertical rock faces were interspersed by grassy traverses where we had to coil and half-carry our ropes, and I was building anchors and setting protection for the first time.

Though moderate in difficulty, the four-pitch route demanded a repertoire of skills. And we were way, way up in the air.

Seneca Rocks
The Seneca Rocks, in the Monongahela National Forest, rise some 900 feet above the North Fork River. This image shows parts of North Peak (left) and South Peak, with Gunsight Notch at center. A tower called the Gendarme once stood there, but collapsed in 1987. (Photo: Preston Keres/USDA Forest Service)

Guess where I was? West Virginia. I鈥檝e long come to the Mountain State to push myself, where you’ll find some of the best adventures east of the Mississippi, holding its own with better-known Eastern destinations such as Vermont and North Carolina for scenery, trails, and general badassery.

From to the big rapids of the Gauley River to the World Cup downhill-mountain-bike course at Snowshoe Mountain Resort, West Virginia is a wonderful and largely underappreciated outdoor destination. Over the last 20 years, I鈥檝e climbed on sandstone cliffs, skied powder dumps, and gotten lost on my mountain bike more times here than I should admit.

Now I’m going to share with you all the ways you can enjoy it, too.

What to Know Before Visiting West Virginia

People and BASE jumpers on New River Gorge Bridge
Bridge Day! Each autumn, visitors converge in Fayetteville to watch BASE jumpers leap from the famous New River Gorge Bridge, the third-highest in the country at 876 feet. In 2024 Bridge Day is on October 19. (Photo: Jason Young/)

West Virginia is transitioning out of an extraction-based economy and into one based on outdoor adventure and recreation. Coal was the leading industry in the state for decades; before that, it was timber. Now, it鈥檚 tourism. According to the state鈥檚 2023 , tourism contributed more than $7 billion to local economies, employing more than 59,000 people.

What many people don’t realize is how much public land there is in West Virginia, which boasts 36 state parks, nine state forests, one national park, and the 920,000-acre Monongahela National Forest. The vast majority of that land is concentrated in the Allegheny Mountains, which define the eastern side of the state. The mountains aren鈥檛 especially high (Spruce Knob is the tallest, at 4,863 feet), but they are steep and wild, loaded with sandstone outcroppings and dense hardwood and spruce forests.

At 4,863 feet, Spruce Knob, in the Monongahela National Forest, is West Virginia’s highest peak. (Photo: Preston Keres/ USDA Forest Service)

The state is within a day鈥檚 drive of many large regional cities (Washington, D.C. is about 177 miles east; Baltimore 210 miles east; and Cincinnati 365 miles west), so the most popular spots can be crowded on weekends. If you鈥檙e looking to raft in New River Gorge National Park during the summer or to ski at Snowshoe Mountain Resort in winter, book your trips a couple of months in advance. Otherwise you probably won鈥檛 find too many visitors, at least not compared to other outdoor destinations in the Southeast and mid-Atlantic.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料s in West Virginia

Mountain Biking

woman rides mountain bike over rocks in West Virginia
Bumping over moon rocks in a state renowned for every kind of mountain-bike trail. (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

I was first lured into West Virginia for its mountain biking, and the trails seem to get better every year. Seventy miles southeast of Morgantown, in the high-elevation and ring of surrounding mountains, more than 100 miles of single track pass through an array of public lands, from state parks to wildlife refuges and national forest. Much of the trail system is connected, so you can create big, all-day rides around the central town of .

(Photo: Courtesy Trailforks)

The eight-mile point-to-point runs through the heart of the valley, with numerous connections for potential loops. It鈥檚 a technical mix of rocks and bogs鈥攃lassic old-school West Virginia mountain biking. The mile-long , east of downtown Davis, is fun and flowy for beginners and can become part of a longer ride when added to local favorites like Splash Down and , with its unusually long rock garden. in Davis has beta, bike rentals (from $50 a day), and shuttles (contact the shop for prices).

Snowshoe Mountain Resort has lift-served mountain-bike trails for major races and also for recreational riding. (Photo: Courtesy Snowshoe Mountain Resort/West Virginia Department of Tourism)

, 90 miles south of the Canaan Valley, has an extensive bike park and one of the largest trail systems in the East, combining lift-served terrain and backcountry single track. The has hosted UCI World Cup events, so even top mountain bikers can find a challenge, but the 40-trail package also contains plenty of green-level berms and rollers (lift tickets from $45).

If you鈥檙e not looking for gnarly single track, consider the , an old railroad bed converted into an essentially flat, 78-mile linear park from Cass to Lewisburg, with a crushed-limestone path hugging the side of the stream. Thanks to 14 trailside campsites, you can tackle the route over several days. can help with logistics (from $85).

Hiking

Claypool Falls, a waterfall in the New River Gorge National Park
The wooded Claypool Falls on Meadow Creek, in the New River Gorge National Park and Preserve (Photo: Courtesy Gary Hartley/NPS)

West Virginia recently introduced the , where you can chase 43 different cascades scattered around the state. Some of the waterfalls come at the end of long hikes, while others only require short jaunts from the trailhead. Download the mobile passport for details on different falls, and check in as you find each鈥20 visits gets you a T-shirt; see all the falls, and you receive a limited-edition letterpress print. , which drops 57 feet in a curtain over a sandstone cliff in Blackwater River Canyon, is one of the trail highlights.

Best Hiking Trails in Blackwater Falls State Park
Best Hiking Trails in Blackwater Falls State Park (Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

The 18,000-acre , 17 miles northeast of Canaan Valley, protects a high-elevation plateau with rocky outcroppings, remote creeks, and flora such as red spruce and heath barrens鈥攑lant life more typical of southern Canada than southern Appalachia. It鈥檚 a bucket-list romp for backpackers and day hikers. is the classic Dolly Sods summer adventure, a 12.3-mile out-and-back full of sandstone boulders, swimming holes, and meadows that in August are loaded with blueberries.

The , a 25-mile point-to-point that traces the craggy ridge of North Fork Mountain within the Spruce Knob-Seneca Rocks National Recreation Area, offers nearly continuous views of the pastoral valley below. I once hiked it during the winter and was mesmerized watching peregrine falcons circling just off the pinnacles. You don鈥檛 have to hike the whole trail to enjoy it, though. From the northern trailhead, hike the 5.2-mile out-and-back to Chimney Top, a large sandstone outcropping that juts out from the ridge with a view of North Fork Mountain鈥檚 silhouette.

Coopers Rock and the Cheat River Canyon
Coopers Rock State Forest and the Cheat River Canyon, West Virginia (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

, near Morgantown, has 50 miles of trails through boulder fields that offer the occasional view of the Cheat River Gorge below. The 1.4-mile is an easy walk through rhododendron tunnels to a moss-covered rocky field. For the big river view, hike the 2.4-mile out-and-back to Ravens Rock Overlook, where you can stare straight down into the heart of the gorge.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

New River Gorge National Park is best known for its climbing and whitewater rafting, but don鈥檛 miss the hiking. is a three-mile out-and-back through a hardwood forest to an overlook with the best view anywhere of the New River Gorge Bridge. The five-mile out-and-back Endless Wall Trail is a bit more involved, crossing a small creek (narrow enough to hop over) and then traversing the canyon rim for 2.5 miles. You鈥檒l pop in and out of the woods, with views of the river 1,000 feet below from the cliff鈥檚 edge. You may see climbers working their way up the rock walls. For something a little shorter and still plenty great, an outcropping named has an incredible view of the gorge and makes for a good two-mile out-and-back from Fern Creek Trailhead.

New River Gorge
An aerial view of Diamond Point on the Endless Wall, the New River Gorge, with the New River Gorge Bridge visible in the distance聽(Photo: Jay Young/)

Skiing

is the biggest such operation in the state, with 244 skiable acres, mostly accessed from a mountaintop village. The skiing is legit, thanks to the 1,500-foot vertical drop and consistent snow every winter. Shay鈥檚 Revenge and Cupp Run are twin black-diamond runs that drop off the western face of the mountain; expect steep pitches and lots of bumps.

Timberline Mountain ski area
Skiers ride the lift at Timberline Mountain, Davis, West Virginia. Ski areas in West Virginia enjoy a plethora of lake-effect powder sweeping down from the Great Lakes. (Photo: Timberline Mountain Co-op Assets/West Virginia Department of Tourism)

Canaan Valley is home to two downhill resorts (one also named Canaan Valley) and a cross-country ski center. Canaan gets most of its powder from lake-effect storms, and the consistent snow has encouraged a vibrant ski culture. is the bigger of the local lift-served options, with steep fall-line groomers and hidden stashes of glades. A six-person chair facilitates fast top-to-bottom laps, or stick to the mid-mountain quad for its glade runs. The apr猫s scene is the best in the state.

Woman out nordic skiing at White Grass Touring Center
Sue Haywood goes out on a blue-sky winter day at White Grass Cross Country Ski Touring Center. (Photo: Chip Chase/White Grass)

No trip to Canaan Valley is complete without a cross-country day at . More than 50 kilometers of groomed trails meander up and around Weiss Knob, West Virginia鈥檚 first ski hill (established 1959). There is a nice skate-skiing track, but cross-country skiing here is mainly about going up and down, finding tree stashes, and making the most of the 1,200 vertical feet of gain.

Rock Climbing

man rock climbing at Summersville Lake
Donald 鈥淒J鈥 Grant enjoys the great and airy climbing at Summersville Lake. (Photo: Jay Young/)

The New River Gorge is one of the top climbing destinations in the East, with thousands of established routes throughout the canyon. Its hard sandstone cliffs rise 40 to 150 feet, and you鈥檒l find everything from beginner-friendly top-rope options to multi-pitch lines and sport test pieces. Head to Bridge Buttress for mellow top-rope routes like , a 5.7 up a dihedral (corner), the perfect introduction to climbing in the area.

I鈥檝e taken climbing courses and gone on guided climbs with , and its staff always put me on good routes for my ability and goals.

climber on top of Seneca Rocks
Climbing on the airy fins of Seneca Rocks dates back to 1935. (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

Some 150 miles north is Seneca Rocks, loaded with multi-pitch routes that take on an adventurous flare with scrambling and hiking between roped sections. During World War II, the famous Tenth Mountain Division trained at Seneca Rocks for deployment in the mountains of Italy. (5.4) is a two-pitch classic that finishes on the very exposed fin of the South Peak with 360-degree views of the valley and greater Seneca Rocks-Spruce Knob National Recreation Area.

If you really want to learn the art of climbing, check out the three-day traditional climbing clinic with . I took this course several years ago, and learned everything from tying the standard figure-eight knot to setting my own anchors.

Rafting

raft in rapids in the Upper Gauley River
Whitewater rafting on the famous Upper Gauley River, West Virginia, is one of the huge draws of the region.聽(Photo: Courtesy ACE/West Virginia Department of Tourism)

West Virginia has a trio of rivers that offer big-water rafting, with high-volume runs similar to what you鈥檒l find in the western U.S. The New River is the most accessible, thanks to the bevy of raft guides operating out of Fayetteville and the family-friendly Class III鈥揑V rapids. The eight-plus-mile has the most action, with countless wave trains, various Class III drops, and two Class IV+ rapids.

The Cheat River has a thrilling through a deep canyon that drops 50 feet per mile, juicing the experience with more than 40 Class III鈥揤 rapids. The river is not dammed, so the run is dependent on precipitation and usually only viable in the spring.

man and daughter boating in the Gauley
Summer fun. Two locals, Jason Young and his daughter Sky, get a little damp. (Photo: Jay Young/)

The ultimate whitewater adventure is running the Gauley, a dam-controlled river in central West Virginia, during Gauley Season. Over the course of six weekends every autumn鈥攖his year starting September 6鈥攃ontrolled releases create a choice 24-mile stretch of whitewater that draws pro kayakers and recreational boaters alike.

The gathering grounds are in the area, just north of the put-in, which maintains a festival-like atmosphere, and at nearby campgrounds. The 11-mile is considered one of the most high-adrenaline commercial rafting trips in the country, with one rapid stretching for a continuous mile and five Class V鈥檚, including a 14-foot waterfall. The 13-mile Lower Gauley also has its share of Class V water, but with calm stretches between the action, and most of its whitewater rolls along as relatively carefree wave trains.

Lake Activities

boats on Summersville Lake
Summersville Lake has been given the name Little Bahamas for its crystalline blue water. (Photo: Jay Young/)

Summersville Lake, 20 miles north of Fayetteville, spans 2,700 acres and is the state鈥檚 largest body of water. It鈥檚 been dubbed Little Bahamas for its clear blue water. Sandstone cliffs encircle much of the lake, making it a particularly beautiful place to boat or fish for smallmouth bass. Around the area are various excellent cliffs for climbing.

Paddle the mile from the Salmon Run Boat Launch to Pirate鈥檚 Cove, an inlet hemmed in by overhanging sandstone cliffs, where a waterfall tumbles directly into the water. has paddleboard rentals and guided trips (from $65 for two hours). Or check out the new Summersville Lake State Park, which occupies 177 acres on the northern shore. Eventual infrastructure will include campsites, cabins, and a robust trail system for hiking and biking. Right now you can hike a 0.7-mile trail to the Pirate鈥檚 Cove area.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 Towns in West Virginia

Fayetteville

downtown Fayetteville at night
The historic town of Fayetteville is a great base for climbing, hiking, biking, and boating. (Photo: Jay Young/)

Located on the outskirts of the New River Gorge, the historic city of Fayetteville has attracted climbers and paddlers for decades. Now that the New has been designated a national park, the rest of the world has discovered the magnificence of this little town. The downtown is laid out in a square, with a picturesque courthouse surrounded by shops and restaurants. has the gear and beta you need to make the most of your rec time in the gorge. Grab breakfast or lunch to go at , located in a small former church. In the evening, you can find pizza, salad, and beer at the lively .

Cathedral Cafe, Favetteville, West Virginia
The classic Cathedral Cafe, a great artsy and outdoorsy hangout in downtown Fayetteville (Photo: Amy Pickering)

Davis

Davis, in Canaan Valley, might be the perfect small mountain town. It鈥檚 only a few blocks wide, but full of good food, and it has a bike shop and immediate access to mountain-biking and hiking trails. Blackwater Falls State Park is on the edge of town, and Canaan Valley State Park is just ten miles south. Both downhill skiing and cross-country skiing are also only ten miles away. Get the Gendarme burrito at and pizza and beer at .

Morgantown

Home to West Virginia University, Morgantown has a fun college-town vibe, but it鈥檚 also a great base camp for exploring Coopers Rock State Forest and the Cheat River Canyon. The wide, slow Monongahela River passes through town, with five miles of along its banks. is the go-to outdoor shop, with gear and accessories for all adventures, and makes some of my favorite beers in West Virginia. Its Almost Heaven Amber goes down easy after a day on the trails.

(Photo: Courtesy Trailforks)

Where to Stay in West Virginia

Snowshoe Mountain Resort has all sorts of on-and-off mountain lodging to fit almost any budget (management has even let me sleep in my trailer in the parking lot behind the affordable Snowshoe Mountain Inn). has the nicest digs, and rooms are across the street from the expert terrain of the ski area鈥檚 Western Territory (from $99).

To explore Davis and the Canaan Valley, book into the ten-room , which has a retro vibe and a happening evening cocktail hour (from $100).

, a complex just outside Fayetteville, has everything from inexpensive tent sites to luxury cabins. Most accommodations are scattered around a 350-acre campus complete with restaurants, lawn games, a swimming pool, and views of the New River Gorge (covered platform tent sites from $49).

And don鈥檛 overlook West Virginia鈥檚 entire state-parks system; a $200 million renovation project is wrapping up that has improved every single . The is particularly enticing, with just 54 rooms and a back patio that stares straight down into the river gorge below (from $156).

Best Time to Visit West Virginia

Spring

overlook at Grandview
The overlooks at the Grandview section of New River Gorge National Park offer some of the area’s most beautiful scenery, some 1,400 feet above the New River. This view is from Turkey Spur, another don’t-miss spot. (Photo: Courtesy Dave Bieri/NPS)

Spring is the sleeper season. Temperatures can still be chilly in March and April, but the crowds are thin, so you can get good deals on lodging and guided trips to popular destinations like New River Gorge National Park. If you show up in early March, you could still enjoy lift skiing at Snowshoe, which typically has the latest closing date among resorts in the state. Hardwood leaves will bud in early April, and the forest typically reaches a full, lush canopy by the middle of the month. May is a great month to hit the state because the temperature is rising but school is still in session so families aren鈥檛 traveling yet. The leaves are fully back and, after the gray and leafless winter, everything is green again.

Summer

rafts at Canyon Doors
Rafts wait on the beach at the scenic Canyon Doors, amid renowned rapids and sandstone cliffs that rise directly above the Gauley River. (Photo: Courtesy 国产吃瓜黑料s on the Gorge/West Virginia Department of Tourism)

I think summer is the best time to visit West Virginia, but I鈥檓 a sucker for swimming holes, lakes, and whitewater rapids. You鈥檒l be cooler in the mountains than on the flats, though even there it can get hot and muggy. New River Gorge National Park will be crowded in summer, but you could have most of the other destinations in this article to yourself.

Fall

Endless Wall
Seen from Diamond Point, the Endless Wall shows why it earned the name, as fall colors light up the New River Gorge. (Photo: Courtesy Gary Hartley/NPS)

Aside from some stands of evergreens scattered throughout its highest peaks, for the most part, the mountains of West Virginia are covered in hardwoods, which means autumn is spectacular. Look for the groves of maple trees, which locals . Fall is also the famous , when, for six consecutive weekends, water from Summersville Lake is released into the Gauley River, creating one of the country鈥檚 most beloved annual events for whitewater enthusiasts. Keep an eye out for , on October 19 this year, when thousands of people converge on Fayetteville to watch BASE jumpers leap from the New River Gorge Bridge, the third-highest bridge in the U.S. at 876 feet.

Winter

White Grass nordic center
A beautiful evening nordic skiing to the top of Bald Knob, White Grass Cross Country Ski Touring Center (Photo: Brian Sarfino)

You might not expect a vibrant snow-sports scene in the southern Appalachians, but West Virginia isn鈥檛 called the Mountain State for nothing. Storms generated to the north on the Great Lakes deliver plenty of powder (annual snowfall at Snowshoe Mountain Resort averages over 150 inches a year), and five downhill resorts and one cross-country ski center soak it up. Those centers are located across a band of mountains in Pocahontas and Tucker Counties, along the eastern edge of the state.

The rest of West Virginia experiences pretty mild winters, without much snow at all. New River Gorge National Park has temperate winters with reduced crowds, making it an ideal time to bike and hike.

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national parks columnist. He considers moving to West Virginia permanently after every trip.

Graham Averill
The author, Graham Averill, outdoors. (Photo: Liz Averill)

For more by this author, see:

The 10 Best National Parks in Canada

The Ultimate Guide to Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway

The 9 Most Fun 国产吃瓜黑料 Lodges in North America

 

 

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The Ultimate Guide to Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway /adventure-travel/national-parks/blue-ridge-parkway/ Sun, 09 Jun 2024 12:00:59 +0000 /?p=2668966 The Ultimate Guide to Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway

This beautiful 469-mile route connects Great Smoky Mountain and Shenandoah National Parks. Our local writer knows just where to stop for hikes, camping, and the best views.

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The Ultimate Guide to Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway

Roads usually leave me lukewarm. I understand they鈥檙e necessary, connecting us from points A to B, and they can be cool, but I don鈥檛 stay up late thinking about the adventures to be had on a two-lane blacktop. The exception, of course, is a road trip on the Blue Ridge Parkway. I鈥檝e never driven the entire road, which passes right near my home in Asheville, North Carolina, but over two decades I鈥檝e traveled, hiked, and ridden my bike on most of it.

This 469-mile highway, also known as 鈥淎merica鈥檚 Favorite Drive,鈥 is a unit in our National Park System, running north and south, connecting Shenandoah National Park in Virginia and Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina. I get excited about this particular byway as an avenue of adventure, anchoring some of the best road cycling and hiking in the Southern Appalachian mountains.

I don鈥檛 even think of the Blue Ridge Parkway as a road, but a 469-mile-long park.

view from Sharp Top Mountain
A hike up Virginia’s Sharp Top Mountain (3,875 feet) offers views of Abbott Lake and the historic Peaks of Otter Lodge. (Photo: Courtesy Peaks of Otter Lodge)

For the most part, the Blue Ridge Parkway (or BRP) is mountainous, hugging the ridge lines of some of the tallest mountain ranges east of the Mississippi, but it also drops down to river valleys and cruises through working farms amid rolling pastures. There are no stop signs or traffic lights on the entire route.

Cowee Mountain North Carolina
The sun lights up Cowee Mountain and the surrounding area, seen from an overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway in North Carolina. (Photo: Courtesy A. Armstrong/NPS)

When Was the Blue Ridge Parkway Built?

Construction of the parkway started in 1935, as a Depression-era project meant to create local jobs but also to give the country a drivable destination in and of itself. In the 1930s, motoring around in a car was as much about fun as it was commuting, and the parkway was conceived of for recreation: stringing together scenic overlooks, picnic areas, and parks with hiking trails.

It took 52 years to finish the road, with the last section, the Linn Cove Viaduct, completed in 1987. But the intention is still obvious today, almost 90 years after the first mile of pavement was poured. I get excited about this road not because of the national parks on either end, but what鈥檚 along the way.

cyclist at Back Creek Valley Overlook, Virginia
A cyclist at Back Creek Valley Overlook, near Roanoke, Virginia, in the Appalachian Mountains. (Photo: Jeffrey Greenberg/Universal Images Group/Getty Images)

The Blue Ridge Parkway is a bit of a conundrum. Yes, it connects two well-known national parks, but it鈥檚 actually the slowest way to travel between those two points, thanks to low speed limits and near-endless curves. Yes, it鈥檚 the most visited unit in the National Park System, welcoming 16.7 million people last year, more than even its southern neighbor, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which had a huge 13.3 million. Still, many people outside of the Southern Appalachians have never heard of it.

on top of Linville Peak
On top of Linville Peak in North Carolina. The entrance to the nonprofit Grandfather Mountain park attraction, with its famous Mile High Swinging Bridge that crosses to Linville Peak, is a mile from the parkway. The adjacent Grandfather Mountain State Park offers a bounty of hiking. (Photo: Ingrid Lemme/Blowing Rock TDA)

Drive the parkway in the summer, and it鈥檚 a roll-your-windows-down-and-cruise experience. Hurrying is counterintuitive to the intent, which was for motorists to meander and enjoy. Here鈥檚 a guide to my favorite adventures, from hopping into crystal-clear swimming holes to hiking to cranking out challenging road climbs.

The Best Time to Drive the Blue Ridge Parkway

Blue Ridge Parkway beauty
You never know what’s around the corner on the 469-mile Blue Ridge Parkway. A rainbow spans the mountains, with the iconic face of Looking Glass Rock, Pisgah National Forest, North Carolina, just visible. (Photo: Eric Haggart)

Much of the parkway closes for winter, usually from November until April. Spring is fine if you want to beat the crowds, but the higher elevations can still feel wintry, as the hardwoods are bare until mid May. Summer is beautiful, particularly at the higher elevations, which stay cool even during July and August.

Rhododendron Blue Ridge Parkway
Rhododendrons pop at Craggy Gardens, 5,500 feet in elevation, in North Carolina. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Everyone goes crazy for the rhododendrons, which will bloom pink and white anywhere from May into July, depending on the elevation (the higher the slope, the later it will bloom). You鈥檒l also find meadows of blueberries and blackberries that ripen in June and July, depending on the elevation. Show up in fall, and the entire landscape will be ablaze with the colors of the hardwoods. The foliage lights up early (late September, early October) at the higher peaks like Mount Mitchell.

wildflowers
Wildflowers glow on both sides of the Blue Ridge Parkway spring into fall, when the foliage goes off. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Road Closures on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Sections of the Blue Ridge Parkway at times shut down for maintenance. During my most recent trip, a portion traversing the Virginia/North Carolina line was closed, requiring an 18-mile detour. Keep an eye on the parkway鈥檚 , which lists all active closures, while planning your trip. But don鈥檛 let one or two closures deter you; there鈥檚 always roadwork going on here somewhere.

Logistics

The Blue Ridge Parkway has no entry fee, and while it has a beginning and an end, there鈥檚 no need for a 鈥渢hru-drive.鈥 Multiple access points mean you can pick one section to explore, which is how I鈥檝e approached my parkway drives over the years. If you intend to drive the entire 469 miles in one shot, take your time. Give yourself several days, especially to hike, bike, and explore.

woman views Linville falls, North Carolina
A hiker views the Linville Falls, one of the grandest waterfalls along the Blue Ridge Parkway. (Photo: Tyler Graves/Blowing Rock TDA)

How to Explore the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia

Virginia contains just over 200 miles of the parkway. The road begins in Rockfish Gap, where Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park ends. There are some mountainous miles, but in this state the road is mainly pastoral, cruising through small ranches and family farms. With all of the wooden fences and country stores, this part of the road can feel like traveling back in time in the best way.

The Best Hikes Along the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia

Humpback Rock, the Blue Ridge Parkway, Virginia
The view from Humpback Rocks, along the Blue Ridge Parkway between mileposts 5 and 9.3, just outside Waynesboro, Virginia聽(Photo: Ben Girardi/Aurora Photos/Getty)

Humpback Rocks (Milepost 6): Just six miles from the northern terminus of the parkway is one of the best short hikes in the state. The two-mile out-and-back climbs 740 feet to a protruding rock outcropping with views that take in the southern part of Shenandoah National Park, the mountains of George Washington National Forest, and the farms of the Shenandoah Valley.

Sharp Top Mountain (Milepost 86): This is a tough 2.8-mile out-and-back on which climbs 1,300 feet to the craggy peak of Sharp Top Mountain (3,875 feet), with a view of Abbott Lake and the historic Peaks of Otter Lodge below. The summit is a jumble of boulders, but you鈥檒l also see an old, now shuttered, stone restaurant that sold concessions during the 1950s and 鈥60s. The ascent is a mix of double track and stone steps, so you might feel like you鈥檙e on a Stairmaster. It鈥檚 a popular hike, and there鈥檚 even a shuttle that could take you most of the way to the top, but you鈥檒l want to do the steps.

man hikes Rock Castle Gorge, Virginia.
The author moves through the verdant canyon of Rock Castle Gorge, Virginia. (Photo: Graham Averill Collection)

Rock Castle Gorge (Milepost 169): Looking for a challenge? This begins as an easy stroll through meadows interspersed with patches of forest, but quickly drops into a narrow canyon cut by Rock Castle Creek. Early settlers named the gorge 鈥淩ock Castle鈥 not because of any notable formations, but for the six-sided crystals they found in the creek, which they thought looked like castle turrets.

The gorge offers steep walls full of rhododendron and ferns, with a 鈥渏ungle hike鈥 feel, rising for several hundred feet on either side of the creek. There鈥檚 designated backcountry camping roughly halfway through the full hike. My favorite part of the trail is the first two miles, with their broad, grassy pastures. Some of those meadows are still active cattle farms (watch for cow poop), while others are the sites of historic settlements that date back to the 1700s. Native Americans hunted and lived in and around the gorge for thousands of years before that.

man in first two miles of Rock Castle Gorge hike
The author’s favorite part of hiking Rock Castle Gorge is the first two miles of open meadows. (Photo: Graham Averill Collection)

The Best Road Rides Along the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia

James River to Peaks of Otter (MP 64 to MP 86): Calling all Type 2 Fun cyclists out there; this out-and-back begins on the James River and finishes at Peaks of Otter, respectively the lowest point and one of the highest points on the parkway in Virginia. On it, you鈥檒l tackle the longest sustained climb on the route in the state, gaining 3,500 feet in 12 miles.

You鈥檒l also get copious amounts of views from overlooks, can stretch your legs away from the bike to check out the 200-foot Apple Orchard Falls (it鈥檚 a 1.2-mile hike to the falls, so bring a bike lock if you want to go). After grabbing a bite at the Peaks of Otter Lodge鈥檚 restaurant, you can turn around and enjoy the descent back to your car.

road cycling at Fancy Gap, Virginia
The author road biking at Fancy Gap, in the verdant pasture lands of Virginia. (Photo: Graham Averill Collection)

Mabry Mill to Fancy Gap (MP 176 to MP 200): For a mellower road ride, I really like this section, rolling through farms near the border of North Carolina. You鈥檒l enjoy the occasional long-range view, but mostly you’re pedaling through small cattle ranches and family farms with tunnels of hardwoods and rhododendron scattered between the pastures. There are climbs, but they鈥檙e short, and the traffic is light.

Living off the parkway in Asheville, I regularly strike out to bike or hike different lengths of the road. During a recent midweek morning ride, I saw more deer than cars. And check out , a restored sawmill and blacksmith shop that history buffs go bananas over as a slice of Appalachian life from the early 1900s.

historic Mabry Mill
At the historic Mabry Mill, built from 1903 to 1914, Ed and Lizzy Mabry ground corn, processed lumber, and offered blacksmithing for three decades. The .5-mile Mabry Mill Trail shows visitors the historic complex, located near Floyd. The trail is . (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

The Best Gateway Towns in Virginia Along the Blue Ridge Parkway

Access roads will deliver you to many small communities throughout the 200-plus miles of the parkway in Virginia, but the burgs below are my favorites.

Roanoke, Virginia, and skyline
The mountain-adjacent city of Roanoke and its skyline (Photo: Jeffrey Greenberg/Universal Images Group/Getty)

Roanoke: More city than town, Roanoke has almost 100,000 residents, making it the biggest city on this path, with a vibrant beer and food scene. has a massive beer garden right in the heart of downtown. is the most lauded restaurant in town, with a constantly rotating menu that leans heavily into seafood, and offerings like lump crab cakes and BBQ shrimp.

Floyd Country Store, Virginia
The Floyd Country Store in southwest Virginia is a great gathering place offering live music on Friday nights. (Photo: Douglas Graham/CQ Roll Call/Getty)

Floyd: This tiny hamlet is the quintessential small farm town, complete with a lively country store, , open since 1910. You can grab a snack and even catch live music here on Friday nights. There are also breweries, wineries, and distilleries around. Check out for traditional German lagers.

How to Explore the Blue Ridge Parkway in North Carolina

Black Balsam hike
Black Balsam Knob, aka Black Balsam Bald (6,214 feet) is in the Pisgah National Forest, North Carolina, near the Blue Ridge Parkway. The above-treeline summits in this national forest draw hikers from all over. (Photo: Courtesy USFS)

After entering the state, the parkway quickly ascends to the ridge lines, and mostly stays up high all the way until its crescendo at the border of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The road contours around a series of 5,000- and 6,000-foot peaks, even skirting the 6,683-foot Mount Mitchell鈥攖he highest mountain east of the Mississippi. There are so many big views from overlooks, you could almost grow bored of them. Almost.

The Best Hikes Along the Blue Ridge Parkway in North Carolina

Hiker looks down on Linn Cove Viaduct
The author looks down from Rough Ridge at the top of the Tanawha Trail at the Linn Cove Viaduct and Grandfather Mountain. This summit offers a 360-degree view. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Tanawha Trail (MP 304): The entire runs for 13.5 miles along the flank of Grandfather Mountain, essentially paralleling the Blue Ridge Parkway. The path is super technical, thanks to all of the rock steps and boulder hopping, and completing the whole thing would be very worthy, but you may not have time for a 27-mile out-and-back. Instead, focus on the five-mile round-trip slice of this trail that begins at the Linn Cove Viaduct Visitor Center and climbs to Rough Ridge, where a granite outcropping provides 360-degree views that include the parkway below and a sea of green slopes.

One of the coolest views comes just a half-mile after you begin, when you鈥檒l find a well-worn and obvious short side trail that leads to a boulder with an incredible view of the Linn Cove Viaduct, a sinuous bridge that curves around the rocky side of Grandfather Mountain.

Black Mountain Crest Trail (MP 355.4 ): Mount Mitchell State Park contains the tallest mountain on the East Coast. Standing on top of Mitchell is a must, and you can drive within 100 yards of the summit but would share that view with dozens of other people. Sure, do it (the Mount Mitchell Summit Trail is .2 miles long) and get the picture, but here is another option.

Begin at the trailhead for the 11.5-mile , which traces the crest of the Black Mountain Range, heading south from the Mount Mitchell summit parking lot, for the chance to bag a series of 6,000-foot mountains in one walk. This three-mile out-and-back from Mitchell on the Black Mountain Crest will take you across two more 6,000 footers, .

Graveyard Fields (MP 418.8): Give the giant views a break with this that takes in three waterfalls and a meadow with excellent blueberry picking in July. The highlight of the hike is the swimming hole at the base of Second Falls along the Yellowstone Prong River, but I always get a kick out of the section through the high-elevation meadow.

swimming hole at Second Falls
The three-mile loop of Graveyard Fields passes three waterfalls and through a meadow. The highlight of the hike is this swimming hole. (Photo: Graham Averill)

The trailhead parking lot may be crowded, but you鈥檒l find solitude if you head up to Upper Falls, which most people skip, since Second Falls is much closer to the trailhead. You might want to bring your fly rod: on the way to Upper Falls are lonely stretches of the Yellowstone that house brook trout.

fly fishing in North Carolina
A spot near the Blue Ridge Parkway in western North Carolina where you might want to have a fly rod. (Photo: Amanda Lugenbell/Blowing Rock TDA)

The Best Road Rides Along the Blue Ridge Parkway in North Carolina

Craggy Gardens to Mount Mitchell (MP 364): Pedaling your bike up 6,683-foot Mount Mitchell is an accomplishment any cyclist cherishes. I try to knock it out once a year, starting from my home in Asheville. That鈥檚 a 68-mile day with 7,000 feet of climbing, but you can also decrease your mileage significantly and still hit the highlights if you begin at Craggy Gardens Visitor Center and pedal north towards Mitchell.

The entire route is above 5,000 feet in elevation, and the overlooks on this 28-mile out-and-back are outstanding, giving you views of seasonal waterfalls and distant ridges while gaining a total of 3,500 feet. The real push comes at the end as you peel off the parkway and leg it up the five miles of Highway 128 to the summit of Mitchell.

Looking Glass Rock from Blue Ridge Parkway
Looking Glass Rock (a 4,000-foot peak) in the Pisgah National Forest can be seen from an overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway. (Photo: Eric Haggart)

Pisgah Inn to Black Balsam (MP 408): Another high-elevation romp that barely dips below 5,000 feet, this 26-mile out-and-back delivers some of the best views along the entire parkway. My favorite is the Looking Glass Rock Overlook at MP 417, with the 500-foot granite face of the nearly 4,000-foot mountain popping out of the lush forest below. This ride climbs more than 3,000 feet, so it鈥檚 no joke, but save some energy to hike the mile-and-a-half round trip on , which comes at the end of the road climb, leading to a grassy mountaintop with views that stretch for 100 miles. It鈥檚 a great way to break up the road ride.

The Best Gateway Towns in North Carolina Along the Blue Ridge Parkway

Downtown Blowing Rock
Downtown in the fun gateway town of Blowing Rock, North Carolina (Photo: Todd Bush/Blowing Rock TDA)

Blowing Rock: Nestled between MP 291 and MP 294, Blowing Rock is an upscale resort town known for its food and quick access to the outdoors. Main Street is packed with boutiques and restaurants, while wellness resorts dot the surrounding landscape. Grab a wood-fired pizza at , and meander over to for a beer.

Asheville, North Carolina, from the air
Asheville, North Carolina, is located amid the Blue Ridge Mountains and at the confluence of the French Broad and Swannanoa rivers. It offers rafting and other boating, also hiking, trail running, and climbing, plus a vibrant arts scene. (Photo: )

Asheville: The parkway curves around Asheville, giving motorists quick access to one of the South鈥檚 most beloved communities. The beer scene is off the charts here ( is my personal hometown favorite), and spend some time walking around downtown and see the various murals painted by Native Americans as part of the . If you鈥檙e feeling sore from all the hiking and cycling you鈥檝e been doing, pop into for a sauna/cold plunge pairing.

mural from Indigenous Walls Project, Asheville
Jared Wheatley, artist and citizen of the Cherokee Nation and the United States, stands in front of a mural at the Indigenous Walls Project in Asheville. (Photo: Lucho Serapio/Asheville Multicultural )

Where to Stay Along the Blue Ridge Parkway

You can drop off the parkway into adjacent towns the whole way, but two lodges and eight established campgrounds are located directly on the road.

drone view Peaks of Otter Lodge, Blue Ridge Parkway
A view of the historic Peaks of Otter Lodge, just off the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia (Photo: Courtesy Peaks of Otter Lodge)

Peaks of Otter Lodge (MP 86): Sitting on the edge of Abbott Lake in Virginia, the offers quick access to miles of hiking trails (see Sharp Top Trail, above) and a good restaurant that serves three hot meals a day. Rates start at $138, and every room has a view of the lake.

Pisgah Inn: The offers a ridge-top experience, sitting on the edge of the parkway above 5,000 feet with views of Pisgah National Forest from its observation deck. Rates start at $250 a night, and reservations can be hard to get, so try to book six months in advance. Even if you don鈥檛 snag a room at the Pisgah Inn, try to have a meal at the restaurant, where most tables have amazing views.

Otter Creek Campground (MP 60): Sitting at the lowest elevation on the Parkway, gives you the chance to enjoy a lush valley floor complete with a babbling creek running between sites. There are 39 sites you can reserve six months in advance, and 29 spots available first-come, first-served ($20 a night).

kayaking on Julian Price
Kayaking in the forest-ringed Julian Price Lake, just beside the campground of the same name. Canoes and kayaks are available for rent. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Julian Price Campground (MP 297.1): You can鈥檛 go wrong with any campground on the parkway, but I like because it sits on the shores of Julian Price Lake, where you can rent a canoe or kayak and paddle the calm waters, which are surrounded by forested slopes. It鈥檚 a large campground, with 115 sites available to reserve six months in advance, while 75 more are first-come, first-served ($20 a night).

Cycling Safety on the Blue Ridge Parkway

A cyclist on the Blue Ridge Parkway
A cyclist on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Heed the author’s advice to stay safe out there. (Photo: Jeffrey Greenberg/Universal Images Group/Getty)

See also: 鈥,鈥 from 国产吃瓜黑料鈥檚 sister brand . In addition to eight , each dedicated to a national park, National Park Trips publishes four magazines a year, providing expert travel service. National Park Trips also provide free trip planners for many parks. See the Great Smoky Mountains National Park trip planner .

The Blue Ridge Parkway is a bucket-list destination for road cyclists, and many of us dream about taking a week and riding the entire length. Mile for mile, the scenery can鈥檛 be beat, and while the road is full of elevation changes, no climb exceeds an eight-percent grade, which makes the ride challenging but not dire.

You will share the road with vehicles. There鈥檚 also no shoulder, which can be intimidating for some cyclists. But generally, the parkway is one of the safer bike routes in the Southern Appalachians. The speed limit is 45 miles per hour or lower, and drivers are accustomed to sharing the road with cyclists.

Still, ride with caution. Try not to pedal alone, make sure to have a tail light and headlight, and avoid earbuds, so you can hear traffic approaching.

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national-parks columnist. He spends a lot of time on the Blue Ridge Parkway, usually on his road bike, sweating uphill.

The author wearing a blue flannel and a ball cap, with the green Appalachians in the background
Graham Averill at home in his corner of southern Appalachia (Photo: Courtesy the author)

For more by Graham Averill, see:

Boating Turns Me Green. But I Couldn鈥檛 Miss a Chance to See the Channel Islands.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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The Best Canoes, Kayaks, and Rafts on the Market /outdoor-gear/water-sports-gear/best-kayaks-and-rafts/ Tue, 04 Jun 2024 23:14:51 +0000 /?p=2669815 The Best Canoes, Kayaks, and Rafts on the Market

Our favorite boats for flatwater to Class V rapids

The post The Best Canoes, Kayaks, and Rafts on the Market appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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The Best Canoes, Kayaks, and Rafts on the Market

From lightweight packrafts that weigh less than some tents to whitewater rigs that can take on the gnarliest rapids, there are hundreds of different types of boats on the market these days. Last year, we tested canoes, kayaks, rafts, and everything in between from Colorado鈥檚 rivers to Florida鈥檚 estuaries. Below you鈥檒l find a sampling of some of the best paddle craft for hitting the water in 2024.

Be sure to check out our favorite boardshorts and women鈥檚 swimsuits as well.

At a Glance

All gear in this guide was tested by multiple reviewers. If you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. This supports our mission to get more people active and outside. Learn more.


Sotar Rogue Argo
(Photo: Courtesy Sotar)

Best Raft

Sotar Rogue Argo

Length: 12 ft
Exterior Width: 68 in
Tube Diameter: 21 to 17 in
Air Chambers: 4 (including thwarts)
Capacity: 675 lbs
Weight: 60 lbs

Pros and Cons
Nimble enough to get through creeks while also big enough for the biggest rapids
Diminishing tubes makes it extremely responsive
The guide position is hard to get used to if you have three people paddling

Taking advantage of the growing small inflatable market, Sotar set out to make the ultimate R2/R3 raft (which means it can carry two or three paddlers) and came up with its new Rogue Argo, a 12-footer that paddles like a paddle cat but has a floor like a raft. The result is a craft that鈥檚 small and nimble enough to charge creeks while beefy enough to run meaty Class IV-V rapids, like on the Gauley River in West Virginia. Diminishing tubes in the front (but not the stern), two thwarts, and a weight of only 60 pounds鈥攍ighter than some of the 10-footers on the market鈥攁re just a few of the features that had our testers sold. It’s so light that it turns your strokes into speed when you need it most and lets you cartop or shoulder-carry it single-handedly. All these features make for a craft that dishes up the same fun as a paddle cat but with a raft鈥檚 space and buoyancy.

That said, don鈥檛 assume the Rogue Argo is just a shrunken-down expedition raft. The durable RF-welded urethane construction and new design features are built specifically for the category. Perhaps the raft鈥檚 most noticeable feature is its diminishing tubes, whose diameters are smaller up front and larger in the stern (17 inches to 21 inches). 鈥淚t creates additional rocker which lets you go up and over oncoming features while keeping the back buoyant,鈥 said tester Aaron Ball, a Swiftwater Rescue instructor for Colorado鈥檚 Southwest Rescue. 鈥淚t was super responsive for two people, tracked well, and took hits with ease. The Reverse Mullet might have been a better name for it.鈥

A mesh floor keeps the weight down while draining water quickly, maintaining buoyancy. While water can enter it in wave trains, it sits up high and out of the water most of the time thanks to cam straps securing the mash to the thwarts. It also drains fast鈥攐ur testers on Colorado鈥檚 Animas River found it dryer than expected. 鈥淚ts mesh was great鈥攊t didn鈥檛 let much water through and made the boat lighter for an already small craft,鈥 Ball said. His only concern: 鈥淲ith frigid water temps, it could lead to cold feet.鈥

The two thwarts and grab handles were ideal for holding on when the going got rough. The thwart spacing is adjustable, which made it easier for testers to lock their feet in. 鈥淚t鈥檚 nice that two thwarts are included,鈥 said tester and former international guide Miles DeFeyter. 鈥淎 lot of rafts don鈥檛 have that. And the grab handles are awesome鈥擨 held onto them several times鈥攖his thing was made to run the gnar.鈥

The only knock? Paddling it as an R3. 鈥淭he guide position takes a little getting used to,鈥 added Ball. 鈥淪itting on top of the 21-inch tube feels a bit different than the standard 19-inch of a classic raft. It takes a while to figure out what position feels most comfortable to guide from.鈥


Esquif Huron 15
(Photo: Courtesy Esquif)

Best Canoe

Esquif Huron 15

Length: 15 ft.
Width: 35 in.
Weight: 55 lbs.

Pros and Cons
Durable material so it doesn’t get dings easily
Can’t be loaded with too much gear, or it becomes sluggish

It鈥檚 rare for a new canoe to hit the shelves, but Esquif鈥檚 new Huron 15 impressed testers enough last fall to make this year鈥檚 cut. It can be paddled solo or in tandem and has a hull based on its popular Prospector design, but trimmed slightly lower from 14.5 inches to 12.5 inches鈥攎aking it more sporty and less susceptible to wind. It鈥檚 designed for cottagers and recreational paddlers who want a solid canoe for calm water and small rivers but don鈥檛 need the depth and capacity of the Prospector.

Tester Nick Hinds took it out with his son, Finn, on Washington鈥檚 Cottage Lake, putting it through its paces on a quiet morning with glassy water and moody skis. 鈥淚 could load it by myself鈥攚hich is hard with most canoes鈥攁nd I could paddle it solo or with my son,鈥 he said, calling it agile and forgiving. 鈥淚t seemed like the hull knew where I wanted it to go.鈥 Hinds also prized its efficiency. 鈥淓ach stroke was felt instantly,鈥 he said. 鈥淚t carved turns right when needed and tracked when we needed to go straight. And while limiting its use on whitewater, its low sidewall prevents it from being blown off course.鈥

The only drawback Hind noted was its carrying capacity. 鈥淧erfect for mild moving water鈥攁s long as it鈥檚 not loaded too heavily,鈥 he said, explaining that it was best for two lighter people or one heavy person, and not too much gear. As for outfitting, the webbing seats 鈥渨ere comfortable鈥 and the ash yoke 鈥渇ormed well for one-person carrying.鈥

Tester Alan Schmidt, who owns eight canoes and has been paddling for 40 years, put it through its paces on Washington鈥檚 low-water Class I-II Skykomish with not a child, but his 80-pound Labrador, who had no trouble centering his weight. Schmidt said that despite the Esquif 15鈥檚 rock and log dodging, the canoe tracked well, requiring 鈥渕inimal correction strokes,鈥 and was responsive to sharp turns. He also appreciated the seat height and tumblehome (the inward curve of the hull above the waterline), which 鈥渁llows for easy and efficient solo paddling.鈥

Best of all, testers don鈥檛 need to worry about dings. It鈥檚 made from T-Formex a layered plastic with flotation and abrasion resistance, which has supplanted Royalex. Schmidt loved the material, especially on the unavoidable submerged rocks. 鈥淚t slid over them easily instead of sticking, as some composite materials do.鈥

Still, Schmift did manage to flip the Esquif 15 in the tight confines of the canyon, putting him and his dog into the drink. Luckily, they had no trouble getting back in. 鈥淭he recovery was simple and easy due to the positive buoyancy and the handles on each end,鈥 he said.


Alpacka Refuge
(Photo: Courtesy Alpacka)

Best Pack Raft

Alpacka Refuge

Length: 87 in. (medium)
Width: 34.5 in. (medium)
Weight: 6.7 lbs (medium)

Pros and Cons
Super lightweight but very river-worthy as well
Re-rigging time takes just five minutes
Might replace all your other rafts

Devotees of uber-lightweight backcountry craft with whitewater chops, rejoice: Alpacka鈥檚 new 2024 Refuge will have you re-thinking where you can paddle, whether you鈥檙e shouldering it to a high-alpine fishing lake, accessing remote rivers, or even bikepacking with it as part of your shuttle.

This packraft combines features of its earlier Refuge and whitewater version into one model, checking all the boxes for exploring wilderness waterways. Already known for its material鈥檚 bombproofness, Alpacka upgraded the new version to a beefier 840-denier nylon, along with a 210-denier high-count nylon hull. Now available in medium (7 feet 3 inches long) and large models (7 and a half feet and 5 inches long), it also comes standard with a backband, inflatable whitewater foot brace, and two-point thigh straps to hold you in when the going gets rough.

We tested it on the rivers and lakes of Northwest Colorado, assessing its whitewater mettle and its packability. First off, the weight comes to just 6.7 pounds for the medium (barely more than a three-person tent), making it easy to carry. It鈥檚 also fit onto the outside of our daypack easily, with plenty of weight to spare for beer, bread, and Brie. After carrying it into Jonah, Whale, and Martha lakes, we were also impressed with its game-changing cargo fly and airtight zipper that lets you stash gear inside the tubes, keeping it out of the way and your center of gravity low for added stability. 鈥淵ou just have to make sure you load it evenly so it鈥檚 not lopsided,鈥 said one tester. Deflating it between lakes, we had the re-rigging time down to just five minutes. Simply roll it out, insert the nozzle of the micro-weight bellows bag, fill 鈥榚r up with a pump, and top it off by blowing.

Another tester took it on the nearby Class II+ Colorado River, sussing out its whitewater cred by assessing the thigh straps, backband, footbrace, and sprayskirt, which attaches to a PVC rim. In the Eye of the Needle rapid, it slipped into the scouting eddy effortlessly and easily punched through the wave train. 鈥淚t rode up and over the waves like a raft,鈥 he said. 鈥淎nd the skirt kept all the splashes out.鈥 The beefier floor shrugged off all abrasions, including a bottom-dragging landing.

Tester Dan Ransom, a 6鈥1鈥 packrafter who paddles 60 days a year, took it out on Oregon鈥檚 Class II-III Rogue River and appreciated its river worthiness and roominess. 鈥淭he whitewater rigging makes it a super capable boat for the size and weight,鈥 he said, adding it packs down smaller than comparable whitewater models. 鈥淚 was impressed by how stable, fast, and nimble it is. A fun little playboat for go-karting around on rivers with easier features. And it’s the easiest-rolling boat Alpacka makes.鈥 Its biggest strength: 鈥淎 capable boat that鈥檚 very light when it’s on your back. Ideal for trips that require a lengthy approach or exit, moderate whitewater, and where weight is at a premium.鈥


Pyranha Firecracker
(Photo: Courtesy Pyranha)

Best Whitewater Kayak

Pyranha Firecracker

Length: 7鈥11鈥
Width: 26 in
Weight: 41 lbs

Pros and Cons
Great for every skill level
Higher knee placement provides comfortable paddling position
None

Pyranha鈥檚 new Firecracker is plain, well鈥xplosive. With its volume loaded up front for river running and a slicey stern for more playful paddles, the new half-slice lets you whip into micro eddies, snap onto waves, and get vertical wherever you want, all while retaining river runnability, Our testers put it to the task on various sections of Washington鈥檚 Skykomish River and the East Coast鈥檚 Nolichucky River, and found it extremely capable in both settings.

Whether you鈥檙e a pro or an average Joe, you鈥檒l be comfortable running rapids on the Firecracker. The boat鈥檚 planing hull keeps it stable, spinnable, and surfable, while its rockered but short bow keeps you dry and relaxed. 鈥淎 nice balance of playfulness and forgiveness,鈥 said 145-pound tester Judah Harms, who put the medium through its paces on Washington鈥檚 Skykomish. 鈥淎nd the volume up front keeps the bow dry when surfing.鈥 He added that playboaters will like how it sprays water away when its surfing.

Wider than many of Pyranha鈥檚 other kayaks, the Firecracker鈥檚 planing hull also eases into a gentle edge for carving. 鈥淚t鈥檚 just enough to work with but novices won鈥檛 find it too aggressive,鈥 said Harms. And the stern, he said, 鈥渋s super fun鈥攚hat little volume it has is distributed nicely, which helps it engage.鈥 He found it did really well when he got vertical on rapids, too.

Tester Nick Hinds took it on Washington鈥檚 Class III Teton River at low water, ripping up three surf waves and stern squirting eddylines (stern squirting is the kayak-equivalent of doing a wheelie on a bike). 鈥淚t carves great on a wave, without kicking out from too much rocker,鈥 he said. 鈥淚t sits in the wave鈥檚 sweet spot. I was able to surf until I was sore.鈥 Calling it an 鈥渁gile little kayak鈥攆ast on a wave for its length,鈥 he added that it鈥檚 great for catching waves on the fly, making hard cutbacks, and splatting rocks and stern squirting. One demerit: 鈥淭here鈥檚 no drain plug, so don’t forget your sponge.鈥

Our testers also liked its higher knee placement, providing a comfortable paddling position while freeing up foot room. In particular, Harms calls out the boat鈥檚 forgiveness, which lets it accommodate a wide variety of paddlers. 鈥淚鈥檇 put a beginner in it and recommend it to intermediates wanting to get more playful on their hometown runs, while experts will love it to up their freestyle game.鈥


Old Town Ocean Kayak Malibu Two XL
(Photo: Courtesy Old Town)

Best Recreational Kayak

Old Town Ocean Kayak Malibu Two XL

Length: 13 ft
Width: 35 in
Weight: 90 lbs

Pros and Cons
High weight capacity
Not for windy conditions

You鈥檒l look at lakes, bays, and easy-flowing rivers in a new light while paddling the Ocean Kayak Malibu Two XL recreational kayak. Perfect for heading out with your kid, spouse, pooch, or friend, it鈥檚 the ultimate family machine that can be paddled solo or tandem, with 491 pounds of weight capacity.

Our testers took it throughout the bays and inland waterways of Florida and found it perfect for the Sunshine State and beyond. 鈥淰ery dry with a well-planned out deck,鈥 said tester Tony Lai of St. Petersburg, who paddled it in wind with a little chop and touted its built-in seats with backrests, storage hatches, cup holders, molded footwells and cooler spot, and front and rear tank wells. 鈥淧lenty of space for whatever you want to bring.鈥 He also relished its higher sitting frame seat (an upgrade) and center deck space for fishing. 鈥淪uper easy to stand up on and get back down,鈥 he said. 鈥淎 great poling platform for sight fishing.鈥

Sarasota鈥檚 Ryan Nowakowski took it out with his 70-pound son Jackson,10, on a calm bay with an outgoing tide and winds around seven knots. 鈥淩oomy, comfortable, stable and versatile,鈥 he said, acknowledging its tracking ability and AirComfort seats, which have an adjustable backrest and position your knees at a natural bend. 鈥淐an handle family beach days, lazy bay paddling, and wind, waves and chop. Not for super long distances, but great for shorter jaunts with stability and comfort.鈥

Testament came when they were drifting in about three feet of water, and out of nowhere the bow beneath Jackson was hit and launched up in the air by a very startled manatee. 鈥淛ackson was scared but the kayak didn鈥檛 capsize,鈥 he said.

Nowakowski also applauded the waterproof hatches in front of each seat, which are deeper than those on other models and able to carry phones, wallets, keys, and more, as well as improved scupper locations so any water that gets in drains back out quickly. 鈥淵ou can stuff your accessories right in front of you for easy access, which frees up the tank well for coolers or other items,鈥 he says. 鈥淯nfortunately, we couldn鈥檛 grab our phone quick enough for the manatee.鈥

Noting it didn鈥檛 want to track as well in windy or up current conditions, we wouldn鈥檛 recommend the Malibu Two XL for more serious expeditions.


Old Town Sportsman BigWater ePDL+ 132
(Photo: Courtesy Old Town)

Best Fishing Kayak

Old Town Sportsman BigWater ePDL+ 132

Length: 13鈥2鈥
Width: 36 in
Weight: 143 lbs

Pros and Cons
E-bike technology makes it easy to go against ocean tides while fishing
Lifetime hull warranty
Have to cut off the power to go into reverse, which can waste precious seconds with a fish on the line

The BigWater ePDL+ is Old Town鈥檚 most innovative pedal kayak, essentially using what is best described as e-bike technology. In short, its battery-powered pedal-drive lets anglers switch between manual paddle, pedal, power-assist pedal, or fully motorized cruise control, upping the versatility for kayak fishing. The LED screen shows you the mode, speed/assist level, and battery consumption level.

鈥淰ery intuitive, not much of a learning curve,鈥 said tester Christi Holmes, who paddled it on lakes and tidal bays in Maine and Florida. 鈥淓xcelled going against ocean surf and tides when trying to get to my fishing grounds.鈥 She loved that she could take breaks for snacks, photos, and changing lures while the kayak kept cruising. 鈥淟iked knowing that if my battery died, I could just pedal back,鈥 she said, adding it was great for trolling and heading against Maine鈥檚 powerful tidal rivers. 鈥淚t works best in tidal areas or areas with strong currents and you need to get somewhere. Less work meant I could go farther and fish longer.鈥

Tester Bill Sikora used it on the fresh and saltwater of the South Florida canal. 鈥淪table hull and lower speed great for trolling for gamefish and against the tide,鈥 he said, adding that while trolling a small blade bait he hooked into a peacock bass. 鈥淚 locked the rudder in place and just enjoyed the ride. The drive never felt glitchy and maintained speed even during extended use鈥攁nd never felt it would die thanks to the power indicator.鈥 The only weakness he noted was that you had to cut the power off to go into reverse. If a hooked fish turns toward a structure on a bank, he said, pedaling backward lets you pull it back out into open water. 鈥淲ith the power-assist engaged, you have to pedal a few times before it kicks off and the drive goes back into manual mode,鈥 he said, which takes up precious seconds when you have a fish on the line.

Other features include a lifetime hull warranty (two years for the ePDL+ drive), a 36-volt lithium-ion battery, EVA foam floor pads for standing, rod and cup holders, a tackle box, full-length accessory tracks for customization, a wide stern tank well, and an offset shallow water anchor mount.


How to Choose a Boat

Generally, there are canoes and sea kayaks for touring lakes and bays, hardshell recreational and inflatable kayaks for user-friendly flatwater paddling (and also inflatable kayaks for Class I-III whitewater), and whitewater rafts and kayaks designed for running rivers. It鈥檚 important to decide what kind of paddling you鈥檙e most interested in before making any decisions about which boat to buy. Factors should include your proximity to water (and what type of water that is), skill level, and storage access. Below is a quick rundown on the types of crafts you can choose from.

Sit-Inside Kayaks

These are good for folks paddling in cooler climates or taking longer trips, since sitting inside a closed cockpit keeps you drier and more out of the wind. They also offer better in-hull storage for gear, making them better for extended jaunts. Touring models such as sea kayaks are generally longer and narrower, making them faster and better suited for bigger crossings and multi-day trips (most come with a nylon spray skirt to keep splashes at bay). Recreational kayaks cater more to entry-level paddlers and are shorter, wider, and more stable, plus they usually have larger cockpits. The tradeoff is they鈥檙e a bit slower and require more effort to paddle long distances.

Sit-on-Top Kayaks

These are touring and recreational kayaks that let you sit outside in a self-draining depression in the hull rather than inside a cockpit. They鈥檙e great for entry-level paddlers since you can climb back on if you tip over, and are well-suited for warmer climates. In general, wider means more stable, and longer means faster, even though they鈥檙e generally slower than their sit-inside brethren.

Inflatable Kayaks

Let鈥檚 call them IKs instead of duckies; it sounds better and is more in line with their performance. As with rafts, abrasion-resistant rubber makes inflatable kayaks well-suited for rivers and other rocky environments. What inflatable kayaks lack in hull speed they make up for in stability, durability, and portability鈥攚hen you鈥檙e through paddling, simply roll them up for transport and storage back at home. Available in both single and double models, most also have inflatable self-bailing floors.

Fishing Kayaks

Fishing kayaks are the same as sit-on-tops, but with options to add accessories such as rod holders, bait platforms, anchors, tackle compartments, electronics, and more. They鈥檙e generally wider, heavier, and more stable (some let you cast while standing), with large maximum capacities for gear鈥攁nd fish. Pedal kayaks are propelled via a removable system that drops through the hull in front of your seat (note: you can also use a paddle). They can reach speeds of five miles per hour (faster than you can paddle) and are steered with a hand-operated rudder. While their origins stem from fishing (i.e. they keep your hands free for casting), they鈥檙e becoming popular for general recreational use as well, and are good options for birding, sightseeing, exploring, and other uses. Most also come with a forward and reverse mode, which can be handy for retrieving a snagged lure.

Whitewater Kayaks

Whitewater kayaks run the gamut from tiny playboats built specifically for surfing waves to more bulbous creek boats for charging through hydraulics, to well-rounded river runners, built for easy paddling downstream. Determine what kind of water you鈥檒l be paddling before making your decision. 鈥淗alf-slice鈥 boats are becoming increasingly popular, with a forgiving bow for river running and a flat stern for playing, squirting, and surfing.

Pack Rafts

This burgeoning category consists of uber-lightweight, bathtub-shaped inflatable rafts that are easy to carry into hard-to-reach lakes and other waterways. They come in a variety of shapes, weights, and sizes, from super light (under four pounds) for easy portaging, to more robust models complete with sprayskirts and thigh straps for whitewater.

Whitewater Rafts

These durable boats are generally made for carrying gear and passengers down whitewater rivers. They range from heavy-duty haulers for multi-day trips to light and fast fishing vessels complete with raised seats and casting platforms.

Other Considerations to Ask Yourself

There are a lot of choices when it comes to design and materials. Ask yourself a few questions to narrow your search to the best craft for your needs, such as:

What kind of paddling do I want to do?

The water conditions will greatly affect the type of boat that is right for you. Will you be sticking to flatwater lakes and rivers or tackling whitewater?

How much space do I need?

For longer day trips and overnights, you鈥檒l need room for extra gear, so consider slightly larger, or even tandem models.

What鈥檚 my budget?

There鈥檚 a wide range of prices depending on size, design, and material, for everything from rec to whitewater kayaks. Decide how high-performance you want to go and what your budget constraints are before narrowing it down.

Do I want a tandem or single?

Many rec and touring kayaks are made in single- and two-person versions. While it is possible to paddle a tandem kayak solo, it鈥檚 more difficult, so only get a tandem kayak if you鈥檒l be using it mostly with someone else.

What type of material should I choose?

As with most things, you get what you pay for. Weight and durability are the big variables to watch for. Some higher-end boats are made of fiberglass and composite, making them lighter but more expensive and less durable. The majority of recreational and whitewater kayaks are made from plastic, which is affordable and durable.


How We Test

  • Number of testers: 14
  • Number of products tested: 19
  • Miles paddled: 136
  • Cumulative put-ins reached: 24
  • Post-paddle PBRs: 36 (minus the one that exploded)
  • Cups of coffee: 25
  • Hull bumps by manatees: 1

To test boats this season, we assembled a team of expert paddlers from around the country who took some of the newest paddle craft on the market everywhere from the manatee-filled estuaries of Florida to the Rockies and rivers of Washington. The group consisted of guides, retailers, whitewater junkies, fishing aficionados, and more, all sharing a love for being on the water as often as possible. Overall, we got our feet wet on 19 different tester boats, whittling the list down to the above five based on performance, weight, and durability.


Meet Our Lead Tester

Testing manager Eugene Buchanan is the 14-year publisher and editor-in-chief of Paddler magazine and founder of PaddlingLife.com. He鈥檚 written about the outdoors for more than 30 years. He鈥檚 a former ski patroller, raft, and kayak guide whose passion for paddling has taken him to more than 30 countries on six continents. A Fellow member of the , he was also the recipient of W.L. Gore & Associates鈥檚 prestigious Shipton-Tillman grant for a 27-day, white-knuckle whitewater trip down Siberia鈥檚 Bashkaus River, a trip he chronicled in one of his five books, .

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Put These Beautiful National Monuments on Your Must-See List /adventure-travel/national-parks/best-national-monuments/ Mon, 13 May 2024 11:00:20 +0000 /?p=2667351 Put These Beautiful National Monuments on Your Must-See List

We love national parks, but they can get packed, especially in summer. These national monuments have the same spectacular landscapes, hikes, and adventures, just without the hordes.

The post Put These Beautiful National Monuments on Your Must-See List appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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Put These Beautiful National Monuments on Your Must-See List

What is a national monument, anyway? That鈥檚 what I kept asking myself as I rode a mountain bike down a rocky trail on sedimentary layers in the Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument. I was rapidly approaching a lower point on the northern rim of the canyon, which is more than a mile deep at some sections. I stopped 2,000 feet above the bottom of the gorge and watched the Colorado River curve through steep cliffs.

The scenery is stunning, the landscape huge鈥o how is it different than a national park? Turns out, not all that much, at least from a visitor鈥檚 standpoint. Most national monuments protect vast landscapes of environmental, cultural, or scenic importance. Ditto national parks.

The real difference is how they鈥檙e created: national parks are voted into place by Congress, national monuments are designated by presidents via the Antiquities Act. With monuments there鈥檚 less red tape, but sometimes more drama (see Bears Ears, below). Also, while many national monuments are managed by the park service, some are managed by the U.S. Forest Service and others are run by the Bureau of Land Management.

There are 133 national monuments scattered across the U.S., usually no less magnificent than their more famous national-park cousins. Sometimes they have fewer amenities (many lack visitor centers, some have no paved roads), and most of them have fewer crowds. Traveling more than 100 miles around last May, I never saw anyone outside of my own group. That would not have been the case in Grand Canyon National Park. Meanwhile the adventure was just as epic.

I鈥檝e gathered 11 of the greatest national monuments in the country, from green mountains on the East Coast to canyons full of cliff dwellings in the Southwest, to fields of wildflowers on the West Coast. Most of these monuments aren鈥檛 famous, but all deserve to be on your bucket list.

Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, Maine

Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument
Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument includes 30 miles of the International Appalachian Trail. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Katahdin Woods and Waters encompasses 87,563 acres of remote mountains, rivers, and backcountry ponds in northern Maine, sustaining healthy populations of moose and black bears. The monument sits to the east of Baxter State Park, where the Appalachian Trail finishes on top of 5,269-foot Mount Katahdin.

While this neighbor park hosts the last, most difficult gasp of the 鈥淎.T.,鈥 Katahdin Woods and Waters has 30 miles of the (a northerly variant that begins here and extends through New Brunswick, Quebec, and a ferry route to Newfoundland), along with a tumultuous portion of the East Branch of the Penobscot River, which flows for 25 miles south through the monument, dropping more than 200 feet in its first 10 miles in a series of waterfalls. Cross-country skiing is popular during the winter; hiking rules in the summer.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

国产吃瓜黑料: If you want a quick taste of the monument, the 17-mile Katahdin Loop Road offers short hikes and grand scenic overlooks. But to truly experience Katahdin Woods and Waters, tackle the 10-mile round-trip hike to the summit of via a portion of the Appalachian Trail. You鈥檒l have to ford the thigh-deep Wassataquoik Stream and climb almost 1,600 feet, but 360-degree views and a historic fire tower reward you at the 1,942-foot summit. The monument is primitive, without a lot of developed facilities (nor any flush toilets). There are , but you need reservations.

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah

Burr Trail, Grand Staircase-Escalante
Burr Trail in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (Photo: Jim Thomsen)

Sandwiched between Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon, gets its name from the series of plateaus that descend between those two massive and scenic ditches. Not to be outdone by its more famous neighbors, which cover 36,000 and 1.2 million acres respectively, Grand Staircase is nearly 1.9 million acres of colorful sandstone canyons, cliffs, and arches.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

国产吃瓜黑料: Connecting in the Dry Fork area of Grand Staircase-Escalante makes for the perfect entry into this unique terrain. It鈥檚 a three-mile loop, but plan on a whole afternoon exploring the narrow red- and purple-walled gulches. Some of the passages in Spooky get tight, and there is mandatory scrambling, but no technical climbing is required. If you want to explore more technical canyons, has been guiding canyoneering trips in the monument for more than two decades, and offers a rotating roster of full-day adventures packed with rappels (from $225 per person).

Bears Ears National Monument, Utah

Bears Ears National Monument
The bear’s-ears-shaped buttes that give Bear Ears National Monument its name (Photo: Courtesy )

Named after twin buttes rising from the desert floor of Southeastern Utah, has seen more than its share of debate since it was established by President Obama in 2016. The 1.36-million-acre monument is a place of scenic glory and cultural significance: massive red rock cliffs and canyons abound, and a bevy of Native American historical artifacts, from cliff dwellings to pictographs, have been found here.

Today, the Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, Navajo Nation, Hopi Tribe, Ute Indian Tribe, and Zuni Tribe all participate in stewardship of Bears Ears as a sacred place. In 2022, the Biden administration signed an agreement that gives those five tribes input into management of the area, and the five Tribes of the Bears Ears Commission (the Commission) and federal agencies released a this year. As for recreation, the Indian Creek Unit, in the northern section of Bears Ears, is a mecca for climbers, who come for the seemingly endless number of cracks in the red rock cliffs. Hikers and bikers follow trails and view artifacts across the region.

biking at Bears Ears
The author and friends on a ride in Bears Ears National Monument. (Photo: Graham Averill)

国产吃瓜黑料: Bears Ears holds world-class climbing. Sadly, I鈥檝e never climbed in the area (it鈥檚 on my list), but I鈥檝e bike-packed through the monument and was awestruck by the sheer volume of towering rock. There are thousands of climbing routes, though not many for beginners. Supercrack Buttress has a high percentage of classic climbs, including the historic Supercrack of the Desert, a sustained and strenuous 5.10+. Consider a full-day guided climbing adventure in Indian Creek with the Moab-based (from $220 per person).

Comb Ridge, Bears Ears National Monument
Comb Ridge, in the southeastern part of Bears Ears National Monument. This aerial image shows the variety as well as beauty of the historically and culturally significant area. (Photo: Courtesy )

To see some of the cultural artifacts within Bears Ears, hike an easy through Mule Canyon where the payoff is access to a series of cliff dwellings tucked into a sandstone overhang. The most notable home has been dubbed 鈥渉ouse on fire,鈥 because of the fire-red-toned rock that forms its ceiling. The hike itself is relatively flat as it traverses the dry gorge, with some optional scrambling up sandstone slopes at the end.

There are three designated campgrounds in Indian Creek, all first-come, first-served ($15 a night). has 10 sites tucked into mushroom-shaped outcroppings. Always bring plenty of water; there鈥檚 no potable water at any of the established campgrounds.

Devils Tower National Monument, Wyoming

Devils Tower as seen across a field of sagebrush
The monolith of Devils Tower rises from the prairie, seen across the sagebrush from Joyner Ridge Trail. (Photo: Courtesy Avery Locklear/NPS)

Created by Theodore Roosevelt in 1906, was the first national monument in the country, and it鈥檚 still one of the most distinctive. The center of the monument is Devils Tower, a solitary butte rising almost 900 feet from the prairie. The monument is not large, at just 1,346 acres, and there are only five hiking trails within the designated area, and all can be combined for a full day of hiking. Tackling only the will give you a good sense of the landscape, as it delivers views of the massive tower and the more serene Belle Fourche River Valley.

国产吃瓜黑料: Climbers have been drawn to Devils Tower for many decades. Parallel cracks divide the formation into large hexagonal columns, and create a variety of crack and corner climbs for experienced traditional climbers. Routes range from 5.7 to 5.13. Durrance, a 500-foot, six-pitch 5.7, is widely considered the easiest way to the summit. Register your climb at the trailhead to Tower Trail, the approach to the monolith, and heed the June voluntary climbing closure, which was implemented out of respect for Native American tribes associated with the tower, which perform ceremonies at the tower during the month. has 46 first-come, first-served sites under cottonwood trees ($20 per night).

Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado and Utah

Mouth of Sand Canyon The mouth of Sand Canyon on the Yampa River
The mouth of Sand Canyon on the Yampa River, Dinosaur National Monument (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

preserves 210,000 acres of western Colorado and eastern Utah, where the mighty Green and Yampa rivers converge, creating 2,500-foot-deep canyons. Within the monument are whitewater rapids, red rock canyons, dinosaur fossils encased in rock, and 1,000-year-old petroglyphs and pictographs left by the Fremont people. You can get a sense of the monument by car; Harpers Corner Road is a 32-mile one-way scenic road with views of the Green and Yampa rivers.

If you have a 4WD, peel off the paved road and head to the Echo Park area, the monument鈥檚 signature landscape where the Yampa flows into the Green and the conjoined river wraps around the massive Steamboat Rock. There鈥檚 a picnic table if you just want to take in the view, or you can camp (see below).

rafts approach Tiger Wall on the Yampa River
Rafters approach Tiger Wall on the Yampa River, Dinosaur National Monument (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

国产吃瓜黑料: Raft the Green River through the heart of the monument. The classic run starts at the Gates of Lodore in Colorado and ends at the Split Mountain Campground in Utah. It鈥檚 a class III trip, appropriate for families. runs four-day trips with catered meals (from $1,499 per adult). There are six established campgrounds, all of which are located on either the Green or Yampa rivers, within the monument. has a small campground with 22 sites, first-come, first-served ($10 per site).

Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Arizona

Grand Canyon-Parashant
Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument sits on the northern edge of the Grand Canyon, in Arizona, and is as spectacular as the national park with fewer crowds. (Photo: Graham Averill)

While Grand Canyon National Park encompasses arguably the most dramatic swath of 鈥渢he great ditch,鈥 the lays claim to more than 1 million acres in northern Arizona, including the less crowded and still awe-inspiring northern stretch of the Grand Canyon. The terrain is a mix of Mojave desert, ponderosa pine forest, broad plateaus, and deep canyons.

Just traveling through the monument is an adventure, as there are no paved roads, only 4WD routes and hiking trails. Don鈥檛 come looking for a visitor center or developed campgrounds. You鈥檙e on your own. I spent a few days driving ATVs, biking, trail running, and camping in and around this monument and was amazed at the views and solitude.

The roads in this monument are rough. This is legitimate 4×4 terrain, so always bring spare tires, and if you鈥檙e not comfortable with that sort of travel, this may not be the monument for you. There are others!

国产吃瓜黑料: If you have a high-clearance 4WD, Grand Canyon-Parashant offers nearly limitless options. Try the 80-mile trek to , which passes through ponderosa pine forest and fields of grazing cattle on its way to a three-sided perch on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, with views of Sanup Plateau, Burnt Canyon, and Surprise Canyon. The dirt road turns to clay as it approaches the Grand Canyon, which can be impassable after a heavy rain. There are a number of primitive campsites along the rim of the canyon; only pitch a tent in sites with existing fire rings.

There aren鈥檛 a lot of designated hiking trails within the monument, but check out the six-mile out-and-back up , which leads to a doozy of a view of the Grand Canyon. The trail follows an old roadbed up the side of the 7,072-foot peak crossing over chunky, volcano rock towards the summit. On a clear day you can see Mt. Charleston, outside of Las Vegas, on the horizon, as well as the western end of the Grand Canyon.

Colorado National Monument, Colorado

woman climbing desert tower, Colorado National Monument
Lindsay Herlinger climbs the historic and plenty exciting Otto’s Route (5.8) to the top of Independence Monument, Colorado National Monument. (Photo: Johann Aberger)

High on the Colorado Plateau, near Grand Junction, the 20,533-acre could be considered a mini Grand Canyon, as the red rock canyons the monument encompasses are full of towers and rock formations, like the puffy-looking Coke Ovens pinnacles. You can glimpse much of the monument from the 23-mile Rim Rock Drive, which runs along the edge of the canyon with near-constant high views.

Independence Monument, Colorado National Monument
The desert spire of Independence Monument, Colorado National Monument, in Western Colorado near Grand Junction聽(Photo: Graham Averill)

国产吃瓜黑料: Climbing Independence Monument, a sandstone spire that rises 450 feet from the heart of the canyon, might be the signature adventure in the monument. A number of different routes ascend the tower, most of them four to five pitches, followed by a double rappel to descend. The 5.8 Otto鈥檚 Route is the classic line. leads day trips up Independence (from $375 for the first climber). has 80 sites, with half first-come, first-served, while the other half can be reserved in advance ($22 a night).

A number of short hikes begin at Rim Rock Drive. is my favorite, as the 1.5-mile out and back leads through some impressive sandstone outcroppings, including the Devils Kitchen, a large natural opening surrounded by towering upright boulders.

Misty Fjords National Monument Wilderness, Alaska

Misty Fjords National Monument
Mountains and waterfalls in Misty Fjords National Monument, 22 miles from the port city of Ketchikan, Alaska. (Photo: Peter Plottel/Getty)

is quintessential Alaska: 2.2 million acres of rainforest, coastal cliffs, and narrow fjords where glacier-carved rock walls rise 3,000 feet from the sea. In this monument, part of the Tongass National Forest in Southeast Alaska, waterfalls drop directly into the bay, while backcountry lakes and streams are surrounded by thick vegetation. Most people experience Misty Fjords via a scenic flight or boat cruise from nearby Ketchikan, but kayakers have free rein.

people in kayaks at Misty Fjords National Monument, Alaska
Kayaking in the green-blue waters of Misty Fjords National Monument, amid sea cliffs and rock walls soaring 3,000 feet above (Photo: Barry Winiker/Getty)

国产吃瓜黑料: Kayaking is the best way to explore this monument, with its complex shores and many secluded coves. The Behm Canal, a natural channel of calm water carved by glaciers, slices through the heart of Misty Fjords like a highway for boaters. On the east end of the canal, Walker Cove and Punchbowl Cove, where 3,000-foot granite walls rise from the edges of the water, are popular boater destinations with day hikes leading from rocky beaches.

Punchbowl Lake Trail is a two-mile out and back that climbs through the rainforest to a small lake with its own granite walls forming a ring around it. runs a six-day guided kayaking trip into Misty Fjords that will have you paddling up to 12 miles a day, hiking to interior lakes, and camping on remote beaches ($1,800 per person).

Thirteen public-use scattered across the monument can be reserved in advance (from $45 a night), as can four first-come, first-served shelters. Punchbowl Lake Shelter, in Punchbowl Cove, might be the best of the lot, as itsits on the edge of a small lake, with access to a canoe.

Carrizo Plain National Monument, California

People hiking at Carrizo Plain National Monument, California, USA
Hikers move among meadows and wildflowers at Carrizo Plain National Monument, California. (Photo: Josh Miller Photography/Aurora Photos/Getty)

No cliffs, no caves, no canyons鈥 is just a massive expanse of rolling grassland, 15 miles wide and 50 miles long, butting up against the 3,000- to 4,000-foot Temblor Mountains in Southern California. This stretch might sound ho-hum until you realize that the vast prairie is absolutely popping with colorful wildflowers in the spring.

The Nature Conservancy, which worked to protect the Carrizo Plain, acquiring the land and partnering with the BLM and California Department of Fish and Game to manage it, compares the landscape to that of the Serengeti because it鈥檚 home to California鈥檚 highest concentration of threatened and endangered species, including the pronghorn antelope and San Joaquin kit fox. The centerpiece of the monument is Soda Lake, a normally dry alkali lake bed that occasionally fills with water after heavy rains and聽 shimmers white with deposits of sulfates and carbonates after that water has evaporated. It looks like a circle of baking soda surrounded by tall grasses and wildflowers.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

国产吃瓜黑料: Soda Lake sits near the north entrance of the monument, and you can see it via the 2.1-mile Overlook Hill Trail. But for a real sense of the scope of these plains, bring your gravel bike and pedal a big loop through the rolling hills past the remnants of former ranches, and look for elk and antelope on the prairie. Show up in spring and you may be greeted by colorful fields of poppies, goldfields, and white and yellow tidy tips that stretch toward the horizon. Traffic is minimal, and you can put together a variety of different rides. A great one is a 60-mile all-day adventure on mixed surfaces, combining Elkhorn Road, Panorama Road, Soda Lake Road, and Simmler Road, covering the heart of the monument and with views of Soda Lake.

Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico

Tyuonyi Village, once home to Ancestral Pueblo people, at Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico.
The excavated remains of Tyuonyi Village, once home to Ancestral Pueblo people, at the bottom of Frijoles Canyon in Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. (Photo: Courtesy Sally King/NPS)

Protecting the traditional lands of roughly 23 tribal nations, is worth visiting from a cultural perspective alone. But the landscape is also remarkable, as the 33,677-acre monument is packed with mesas, canyons and a federally designated wilderness with 70 miles of backcountry hiking. Ancient culture and dramatic terrain mesh in the monument鈥檚 cliff dwellings, homes that the Ancestral Pueblo people built directly into the sides of rock walls.

The 1.4-mile round-trip paved Pueblo Loop Trail is an ideal option for families. The first section is flat and wheelchair and stroller accessible. (Photo: Courtesy Sally King/NPS)

国产吃瓜黑料: Take your time and explore the archeological sites in Bandelier. The 1.4-mile winds through a series of small alcoves carved in the soft rock walls that you can access via ladders, and into the ruins of large stone houses. From the Pueblo Loop, tack on a one-mile out-and-back side trip to the Alcove House, a massive carved niche that was once home to 25 people. You can reach it by climbing a series of steps and ladders.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

has 57 campsites, 16 of which are first-come, first-served, while the rest can be reserved up to six months in advance ($20 per site).

San Juan Islands National Monument, Washington

San Juan Islands National Monument
The San Juan Islands National Monument way north in the Puget Sound, Washington, encompass a medley of green-forested coves, sheer bluffs, rocky beaches, and lighthouses. (Photo: Campbell Habel)

Not to be confused with the San Juan Islands National Historic Park, the protects 1,000 acres of the Puget Sound islands, covering a contrasting mix of green-forested coves, sheer bluffs, rocky beaches, and lighthouses, all managed by the BLM and scattered throughout the larger 450-island San Juan archipelago adjacent to the Canadian border.

国产吃瓜黑料: The monument is scattered throughout the Puget Sound, so you need a boat to do it justice. It鈥檚 tough to decide where to focus your energy in the San Juans, but Patos Island should be on your itinerary. This 200-acre spit of land is managed by the BLM in conjunction with Washington State Parks, and has beaches, hiking trails, a historic lighthouse, and established (from $12 a night). It鈥檚 also the northernmost point in the Lower 48.

If you want to explore more of the monument, offers a variety of kayak tours throughout the San Juan Islands. Check out their five-day expedition that features amping on small islands and peeping at orcas from the belly of a boat (from $1,199 per person).

How to Be a Conscientious Traveler

Newspaper Rock is among the cultural treasures within Bears Ears in Utah. (Photo: Jim Thomsen)

National monuments often lack the same infrastructure as national parks, which means they may not have the staff on-site to help with questions, clean up campsites, or offer guidance. It鈥檚 super important to practice principles in these monuments, and be aware of the cultural importance of the landscape. Many of these properties encompass the historical territory of Native Peoples and contain artifacts that are important to their heritage. Be kind and respectful, leave what you find, and whenever you have the opportunity, use local guides and purchase items from local shops.

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national parks columnist. In his opinion, national monuments represent the best of America鈥檚 public lands: with all the beauty of national parks, but none of the crowds.

 

Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument
The author in Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument (Photo: Graham Averill)

For more by Graham Averill, see:

The 5 Best National Park Road Trips in the U.S.

The 9 Best Gateway Towns to U.S. National Parks

And the 11 Least Visited National Parks Are鈥

The 10 Best Backpacking Trails in Our National Parks

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Meet the Rucky Chucky Raft Crew of Western States 100 /running/news/raft-crew-of-western-states-100/ Wed, 26 Jul 2023 11:30:34 +0000 /?p=2640192 Meet the Rucky Chucky Raft Crew of Western States 100

The boat people volunteers who shuttle runners across the American River at mile 78 on the Western States 100 Mile Endurance Run have seen it all

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Meet the Rucky Chucky Raft Crew of Western States 100

The Western States Endurance Run is billed as the world鈥檚 oldest 鈥渙fficial鈥 100-mile trail race. And to put such an event on, year after year, takes a lot of people and a lot of attention to detail. One of the most popular spots on the epic run from Olympic Valley, California, to Auburn鈥檚 Placer High School stadium, is the Rucky Chucky checkpoint, at mile 78, where the trail crosses the American River just below .

After a season with low snow, water flow rates can be controlled through retention at an upstream dam. When the water levels can be lowered, runners cross the river on foot, with cables and volunteers to help. But for years like 2023, after epic snow in the Sierra Nevada mountains, flow goes over the dam and cannot be controlled.

This year, like other big snowmelt-induced, high river flow years on the American, rafts were required to transport runners across. Chris Thornley, the younger brother of race director Craig Thornley, is in charge of all things that have to do with the river crossing.

鈥淪ince Craig took over 10 or so years ago, he put me in charge of river crossing safety,鈥 Chris says. On race weekend, Chris uses his own personal raft, and then they rent additional rafts and hire guides from a local commercial rafting company to float runners across the river.

Craig and Chris might know the course and the area better than anyone else. In 1978, when they were 14 and 8, the two boys set out on a solo camping trip along the American River. That year they woke to runners shuffling by on their way to the mile 85 aid station. 鈥淲e saw this guy come up running, he was super dirty, and he was asking if we knew how close the aid station was. We had no idea what he was talking about,鈥 Chris said. But the moment stuck with both brothers as a kind of magical thing.

鈥淐raig and I didn鈥檛 talk about that experience until much later,鈥 Chris said. 鈥淲e both remember it being an important moment鈥攚itnessing the headspace that someone was in after running more than 80 miles. We both felt the same way.鈥 Chris and Craig鈥檚 family went on to volunteer at aid stations for years. Both brothers experienced every inch of the course and have since understood what those first runners they saw as kids were going through.

Besides running, Chris has also been rafting and boating his whole life. He now has an expert level of water rescue experience. 鈥淸For Western States 100] we run four rafts at the peak times, starting at about 10 P.M. through about 4 A.M. And we’re just running four rafts in an egg beater fashion so we have a constant flow.鈥

Chris ran Western States in 2006, and recalls that being a raft year as well. 鈥淚 had to wait 40 minutes or more for a raft, and I was at the back of the pack so it wasn鈥檛 really about racing, but I was thinking, I have to get in under 30,鈥 he says, referencing the 30-hour cutoff time for the race. When runners exit the water they have 22 miles left to the finish.

鈥淪o when I became responsible for the river crossing, I told Craig it鈥檚 really worth the extra money to have more rafts. This year the longest anyone had to wait to get in a raft was maybe one minute.鈥 The whole raft crossing only takes two minutes, so it鈥檚 very efficient these days.

Western states 100 raft at rucky chucky
(Photo: Peter Maksimow)

What鈥檚 More Popular: Raft or Rope?

The first time a boat was used to cross the river was in 1980. 鈥淚t was an old aluminum fishing boat,鈥 Chris said. 鈥淭he captain of the boat in 1980 was Bob Suter. And since then we鈥檝e used boats about 12 times.鈥

After his many years stationed at the river, Chris thinks there鈥檚 a pretty even split among runners who would rather cross the river on their own versus being in a raft, and it usually has a lot to do with the weather and the time that they鈥檙e crossing. During a hot year, the leaders might prefer to cool their core down and fully immerse in the river. But if you鈥檙e crossing in the dark, when things have cooled down significantly, being completely wet even for a few minutes might take a lot of energy and leave you chilled during the ensuing miles.

RELATED: This Packraft Weighs Less than a Pineapple and Is Perfect for Summer 国产吃瓜黑料s

Athletes also have to think about chafing鈥攊f they get completely wet, they often lose all of the benefits of their lube. In addition to being a raft and water safety guy, Chris Thornley and his wife Stacy are the founders of Squirrel’s Nut Butter, an anti-chafing and skin restoration salve company.

鈥淔or the leaders, in general, they don’t really care about being sopping wet or having wet shoes,鈥 Chris said. 鈥淚t’s more those later in the day and further back in the pack that are kind of happy to keep their feet dry.鈥 Regardless of whether it鈥檚 a raft year or an in-the-water year, Chris always has a stash of Nut Butter on both sides of the river.

western states 100 raft aid
(Photo: Peter Maksimow)

Enjoying the Ride

During this year鈥檚 race on June 24-25, Chris noticed that many athletes seemed happy about the raft ride. 鈥淚t was a cooler weather year, and I had a bucket in the raft full of river water, so they could cool down with that. For a lot of runners, I think they felt like it was very cool that a boat took them across the river.鈥

Chris usually films his raft action with a GoPro, which he did this year as well, but he was also featured in the first ever live-feed of the race on YouTube. Although in previous years he鈥檚 seen some athletes in dark places by the time they reach the river, this year seemed generally very positive, with runners in good spirits and happy to be there. Thornley forgot to wear his GPS watch to track how many trips he made, but says it seems like at least 100 crossings.

Chris says. 鈥淎 lot of times, especially with the leaders, they’re grinding so hard. But Courtney stood out. She was obviously in the zone but so able to show her appreciation. And not just for the cameras. It’s a genuine appreciation. And it is magic. Everybody can see it.鈥

RELATED: Courtney Dauwalter Sets Back-to-Back Course Records at Hardrock and Western States

When Things Go Wrong

In 2016, Jim Walmsley notoriously 鈥渢ook a swim鈥 while crossing the river. When he arrived at the river it was impossible to keep feet on the rocks, so he opted to swim without the aid of the cable. And he ended up being swept a short distance downstream and exited on his own. At the time, there was some discussion as to whether Walmsley would be disqualified if he had been helped out of the water. (He would not have been.)

But that was a rare and never repeated instance, partly due to how fast Walmsley arrived at the river. Two years ago the race signed an agreement with the state that the water would be lowered early enough so that runners would all have the same experience. Previously, the water flow had been left high enough for recreational users to have a full day on the river, and then the water would be lowered in the evening, around the time that most runners arrived. But Walmsley ran so fast that when he arrived in 2016, the water was still raging.

鈥淲e signed a 40-year agreement that says lowering the base flow will happen way earlier [in the day] to allow those 14-hour folks that are crossing at four o’clock in the afternoon to have a much safer crossing,鈥 Chris said. And in years when the flow can鈥檛 be controlled, Chris is on raft duty.

The Future of the Crossing

While this was a record-breaking year for California snowpack, could an even bigger snow year change the river crossing entirely? What happens if the river flow is so heavy that Chris and the other rafters can鈥檛 possibly row across?

鈥溾嬧婭f we had needed to do the crossing in conditions like they were on our Memorial Day training weekend, that would be very difficult,鈥 he says. 鈥淭he flow was significantly higher鈥攆or sure double if not triple what it was for the race鈥攁nd that actually would have been very challenging.鈥

In such a situation, Chris says they would have to come up with a new system for getting across the river. 鈥淲e most likely would have to go to some sort of tethered highline system, with a tether on the raft, because otherwise you鈥檇 be pushed downstream.鈥 Chris said that because the race is well into the season he鈥檚 not worried about that kind of thing happening. 鈥淭his was a record-breaking snow year, so it would take something even beyond that.鈥

Climate change is prompting more and more intense versions of all different kinds of weather, so big snow seasons probably won鈥檛 be rare, but for now, the runners at Western States are lucky to have Chris Thornley making sure they make it to the other side.

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National Parks Close Roads and Campgrounds and Delay Summer Openings /adventure-travel/news-analysis/national-park-delays-closures/ Thu, 18 May 2023 12:00:25 +0000 /?p=2630870 National Parks Close Roads and Campgrounds and Delay Summer Openings

Road damage, projected flooding, delayed openings: here鈥檚 how the big winter will affect national parks this summer

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National Parks Close Roads and Campgrounds and Delay Summer Openings

We鈥檒l be talking about the winter of 2022鈥23 for years. Epic snowfall blanketed much of the western U.S., creating the best ski season in memory. So far that snowpack is delivering one of the best spring rafting seasons in decades.

But all that precipitation and increased snowpack also left a lot of destruction in its path, including damage to the infrastructure in some of our national parks, with projected flooding from the spring thaw prompting temporary closures in others. For example, in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, in California鈥檚 Sierra Nevada, the record snowfall and heavy rains led to rockfall and road damage, causing closures throughout the park.

raging merced river
A rowdy Chowchilla River just outside Yosemite National Park, as seen earlier this spring in a rain flood (Photo: Sean Kenneth Jones)

鈥淚t was an intense winter for us, and we鈥檙e still plowing snow and working hard on road construction,鈥 says Sintia Kawasaki-Yee, chief of communications with Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. 鈥淚t鈥檚 going to be a different spring [than usual], with some areas closed.鈥

Other major events include the closure of the famous Narrows hike in Zion, flood warnings in Yosemite, and campgrounds still under snow at Grand Canyon.

grand canyon lodge buried snow
The Grand Canyon Lodge, on the North Rim of Grand Canyon, was still buried in April. (Photo: E. Shalla/NPS)

鈥淚t鈥檚 been challenging, but I don鈥檛 want people to think they shouldn鈥檛 come to the parks,鈥 Kawasaki-Yee says of Sequoia and Kings Canyon. 鈥淭here are still things to do. They just need to be prepared and aware of certain closures.鈥

All of that snowpack means water tables are replenished to some degree, and more water is flowing through the West鈥檚 parched river basins. Lake Mead and Lake Powell, both of which sit on the Colorado River, are already seeing a rise in lake levels. And park employees are working diligently to clear the snow, repair road damage and get things open.

river surfing
This is the year of all years for the river-surfing, as well as kayaking and rafting, seen on the Merced, Yosemite. The image is a detail from a video of Anthony Taylor on the water. (Photo: Sean Kenneth Jones)

Here are seven national-park delays and closures that are a direct result of extreme weather, as well as our advice for how to deal and find alternatives.

Great Basin National Park, Nevada

Record-setting snowfall has delayed the spring opening date of Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive, Wheeler Peak Campground, and popular hikes like the Alpine Lakes Loop inside Great Basin National Park, as portions of the park are still buried. The roads, campgrounds and trailheads within the higher elevations of the park typically open at the end of May, but the park service expects a delay until July 1. Park management also says hikers should be cautious of flash-flood conditions as temperatures warm. Get current conditions

Our advice: Wheeler Peak Campground might be closed, but Baker Creek and the Upper and Lower Lehman Creek Campgrounds are open on schedule. If you can鈥檛 hike the high terrain, consider going underground鈥 are operating as usual.

Yosemite National Park, California

In Yosemite, Big Oak Flat Road is closed from the park boundary to the Merced Grove while crews repair cracks in the roadway up to four feet deep and 200 feet long. from recent storms. This photo taken May 4. (Photo: NPS)

In Yosemite, Big Oak Flat Road (Highway 120) is closed from the park boundary to the Merced Grove while crews repair cracks in the roadway up to four feet deep and 200 feet long from recent storms. The park expects the road to be closed until mid-June and possibly into July, which means visitors coming from the west will have to take an alternate route to access Yosemite Valley. The Mariposa Grove Road is also closed due to storm damage through May and into June. Visitors wanting to reach Mariposa Grove will have to hike two miles each way, with a 500-foot elevation gain. The park is also closing Lower and North Pine Campgrounds starting May 15 due to potential flooding from snowmelt. There鈥檚 no current timeline for the campgrounds to reopen. See conditions

Our advice: If you want to explore the Valley, Highways 140 and 41 are still open from the west. If you鈥檙e looking to camp in the Valley, Camp 4 campground is open, first-come, first-served until May 21, at which point you鈥檒l need advance reservations. Upper Pines Campground is also still open and requires reservations.

lodge under snow
Can’t imagine why anyone is having trouble digging out. This is the Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite this past winter. (Photo: Courtesy Tenaya Lodge)

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Grand Canyon has had to delay the opening of the North Rim until June because of record snowfall. The North Rim saw more than 250 inches of snow this winter, burying the Grand Canyon Lodge, necessitating plowing and facility repair. The North Rim campground will open June 9, while the North Kaibab Trail will be closed until June 1 for trail reconstruction due to rockfall and landslides. Current conditions

overlook Grand Canyon
Though some closures are in effect, you can still find places in Grand Canyon National Park to hike, camp, and contemplate existence. Three visitors鈥(left to right) Rainy Adkins, Charlie Barta, and Owen Kahn鈥攔each an overlook last fall. (Photo: Nyima Ming)

Our advice: You鈥檒l have to be patient if you鈥檙e set on exploring the North Rim. Until the park service can clear the snow, the South Rim is your destination, with plenty of options for hiking and camping. We say bring your bike and pedal Hermit Road, which has more than half a dozen scenic overlooks, and is closed to all vehicles (except park shuttles) from March 1 to November 30.

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, California

giant sequoias
Looking for sequoias? Currently the giant trees cannot be seen in Sequoia National Park due to road closures. You can see them instead in the Grant Grove area of Kings Canyon National Park. The two parks are jointly managed. Access to this loop trail is about a 20-minute drive from the entrance to Kings Canyon. (Photo: NPS)

Roads inside Sequoia National Park suffered damage from the winter storms, closing all but six miles of the Generals Highway, the main access road, within the park and preventing access to the giant sequoias at this time. The Giant Forest, Wolverton Snowplay Area, Lodgepole, Wuksachi and Moro Rock Areas are closed until at least June 9, while Crystal Cave and Mineral King Road will be closed throughout the summer because of road damage. Cedar Grove, inside Kings Canyon, is also closed due to severe road damage on Highway 180. Management doesn鈥檛 expect the road to reopen until fall. The park service updates road closures frequently and maintains a map of current road status within the park. Check conditions

Our advice: The Foothills Area of Sequoia, which is accessed by the first six miles of Generals Highway, is open, and has its own system of hiking trails and camping at Potwisha Campground (reservations required). The wildflowers are going off in this section of the park this spring, but there are no large trees. Park management is recommending visitors go to Grant Grove, in Kings Canyon National Park, to see the giant trees.

Zion National Park, Utah

flooding
The Virgin River shown flooding in storm, Zion National Park, Utah (Photo: John Elk III/Getty)

In Zion, the popular Narrows hike, through a slot canyon along the Virgin River, is closed indefinitely due to the unusually high snowmelt and the flow levels in the Virgin River. The park service closes access to the Narrows any time flow levels exceed 150 cfs, and this spring levels have not dipped below 600 cfs. Emergency responders have already had to rescue one woman from the Virgin River鈥檚 Grotto area, in April.

Meanwhile, Zion Canyon Scenic Drive has been reduced to one lane because of road damage caused by rockfall, which caused a fissure in the road, and Kolob Canyons Road is closed beyond the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center for the same reason. See updates

Our advice: The shuttle is still operating on Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, so your hiking plans are still intact. While you wait for the Narrows to reopen, try to score a to hike the Subway, a strenuous 9-mile round trip hike through a slot canyon on the Left Fork of North Creek.

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah and Arizona

Here鈥檚 some good news: The winter鈥檚 snowfall and subsequent melt is raising the water level of Lake Powell, inside Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. As water levels have receded on the lake during the last 20 years, park management has had to close a number of boat ramps, severely limiting boater access. But this spring, the opposite is happening; Glen Canyon recently announced the Bullfrog North Boat Ramp, in north Lake Powell, is operable again for houseboats and larger vessels. More than a dozen ramps and access points remain inoperable because of low water levels, but spring runoff has already raised the lake level by 10 feet. Check for updates

Our advice: Take advantage of the higher water while you can. Launching on Lake Powell can be easier at the higher water and you can paddle deeper into narrow gorges like Antelope Canyon and Lone Canyon.

Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Arizona and Nevada

While all that snow in the mountains is helping replenish Lake Mead鈥檚 coffers (lake levels had risen by three feet as of May 1 and could rise several more by the end of July), the summer heat is expected to put a crimp on hiking plans in the recreation area. Lake Mead has already announced seasonal closures to strenuous areas and trails from May 15 to September 30, citing a sharp increase in medical-emergency calls each summer. To prevent potential distress and tragedies, the park service is closing the following areas: Goldstrike Canyon, White Rock Canyon ad White Rock Canyon Trail, Arizona Hot Springs and Arizona Hot Springs Trail, Liberty Arch Trail, Lone Palm Trail, Sugar Loaf Trail and the Lone Palm and Sugar Loaf surrounding areas. See updates

Our advice: Take to the water. While the Goldstrike Canyon and White Rock Canyon Trails are closed this summer, the hot springs at the end of those trails are not. In fact, they鈥檙e accessible by boat from Lake Mohave. Just limit your soak time. You know, because it鈥檚 hot outside.

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national parks columnist. He continues to be fascinated by how this winter鈥檚 epic snowfall is impacting outdoor recreation well beyond the last of the flurries.

graham averill
The author, Graham Averill, on a sunny day (Photo: Liz Averill)

 

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