For a good number of travelers, the ultimate bucket-list experience is swimming with whales. There鈥檚 something听about the idea of being in the water with these enormous creatures that calls to people. And if you talk to people who have swum with whales, chances are they鈥檒l tell you it changed their lives. This is true even for veteran adventurers who鈥檝e seen it all鈥攑eople like 国产吃瓜黑料 contributing editor Rowan Jacobsen, whose past assignments include a journey to the Amazon to seek out the source of the world鈥檚 greatest chocolate. Last fall, Jacobsen joined a small crew in the Caribbean that was filming and studying sperm whales by getting in the water with them. Though he had no delusions that swimming with whales would heal him or transform him, he was certain that he would learn a thing or two听from being very, very close to these legendary giants of the sea. And he did.

This episode of the 国产吃瓜黑料 Podcast is brought to you by Avocado Green Mattress, makers of 100 percent听organic-certified mattresses鈥攁nd more products, like their new meditation pillow. Visit to learn more. And to save $175 dollars on any mattress, use the code OUTSIDE175 at checkout.

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Three miles off the coast of Dominica, on a flat blue Caribbean sea, Pernell Francis lowers a hydrophone into the water and slides a pair of headphones over his ears. Captain Jerry kills the engines on the Southern Cross, his sportfishing boat, and the other two people on board, the marine scientist and her mother, Stacy, get superstitiously quiet.

It鈥檚 eight o鈥檆lock in the morning on November 21, and we鈥檙e listening for the sounds of the world鈥檚 brainiest and most charismatic mega颅fauna.

Dominica is one of the best places in the world to interact with sperm whales, and each year the government grants a handful of permits that allow scientists and photographers to get in the water with them. Gaelin鈥檚 permit is for Visual Assessment of Potential Stressors on Physeter macrocephalus. Her goal is to produce a photographic record of Dominica鈥檚 whales, looking for signs of injury incurred from things like ships and fishing gear. She鈥檚 also hoping to make a film about our species鈥� complicated relationship with sperm whales. Pernell, a local Dominican who鈥檚 been called the whale whisperer for his uncanny ability to find them, is our guide.

Sperm whales communicate across miles of ocean using a complex language of sonic clicks. By listening to the hydrophone, Pernell can tell if they are near or far, diving or surfacing, feeding or cruising. He rotates the pole, pointing the device in every direction, face tight with concentration.

Behind Pernell, Dominica looms. A precipitative pile of rainforest, with countless waterfalls cascading down its 4,000-foot flanks, it has almost no natural harbors, very little nautical traffic, and deep underwater canyons teeming with large squid. It鈥檚 an ideal place for sperm whales.

But they don鈥檛 always show. Just ask Gaelin, who is standing beside me with crossed fingers and is whispering whales, whales, whales. At more than $3,000 a day for the boat, guide, and other appurtenances, the project is a major gamble. To raise the full funding for the film, she needs some killer footage, and for that she needs whales. In 2018, she secured a permit, hired Pernell, and got skunked鈥攆ive days on the water, a whole lot of silence in the hydrophones. The island鈥檚 parting gift was a flash flood at the airport that nearly swept Gaelin, Stacy, and their camera cases out to sea. Now she鈥檚 back for one more try.

But as Pernell pulls off his headphones, the early verdict is not encouraging. 鈥淚t鈥檚 quiet,鈥� he says. 鈥淣othing within three miles. We gotta keep going.鈥�

I feel Gaelin deflate a little. Trained in coastal environmental management, she now describes herself as both a scientist and a storyteller. She tagged Atlantic bluefin tuna in graduate school, but after watching her research subjects slide toward extinction, with the population declining some between 1957 and 2007, she shifted to advocacy. In 2008, she founded , which organizes research expeditions and documents the work of scientists through photography and video. More than a decade later, she has partnered with scientists in the Arctic, Antarctic, and many places in between. 鈥淚t鈥檚 about bringing back stories of expeditions that people can relate to,鈥� she says, 鈥渁s opposed to just writing scientific papers.鈥� Recent trips have taken her to Palau, to make a short about climate-resilient corals, and to the bottom of Belize鈥檚 Blue Hole with Richard Branson and Fabien Cousteau, a grandson of Jacques.

Gaelin鈥檚 film concept is inspired by a close encounter she had with a sperm whale as a child, which helped set her life鈥檚 course. (pronounced 鈥渇eisty,鈥� a play on Physeter macrocephalus) was a young sperm whale that tried to beach himself on Coney Island in 1981. Sick with a mystery illness and being battered by waves, Physty was towed to a nearby boat basin for rehab.

At the time, well over a thousand sperm whales were still being killed by humans each year, and Physty made their plight personal. Floating on his side in the basin, weak and disoriented, he became a national sensation. Thousands of people traveled to the harbor to root for his recovery.

Among them was Stacy Rosenwaks and her young son and daughter. 鈥淲e went every other day to watch the vets take care of him,鈥� Stacy says. 鈥淲e were right there next to him. You could smell his breath, see his spray.鈥�

鈥淚 remember being so close and seeing his eye,鈥� says Gaelin. 鈥淚 wasn鈥檛 quite two years old yet, but that moment of interaction was really powerful.鈥�

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Surf Uncrowded Breaks听On Costa Rica鈥檚 Caribbean Side

Costa Rica听has become one of the world鈥檚 most popular surf destinations, and with that status have come concerns that the country could lose its pura vida vibe. The once sleepy towns of Tamarindo, Nosara, and Santa Teresa are on surfers鈥� radars, and on the Pacific coast in Pavones鈥攚hich boasts the second-longest left break in the world鈥攖he waves are often packed. But you should still go, and consider the less visited Caribbean side. In the small coastal town of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, four hours southeast of San Jos茅, you鈥檒l find 50 miles of white-sand beaches, coral reefs, and waves for every skill level. The main draw is Salsa Brava, a heavy, barreling reef break reminiscent of Oahu鈥檚 North Shore. But Playa Negra is perfect for foam-top-riding newbies, and Punta Uva for intermediates craving easy rides without drama. Those who want to test the waters before trying out Salsa Brava can hire a boat in Lim贸n to reach Uvita Island, a punchy reef break.

Stay at the year-old Hotel on Playa Chiquita (from $290, breakfast included). The vision of Costa Rican artist Elizabeth Steinvorth and her daughter Elena Rohrmoser, it has six suites and six bungalows perched in tropical gardens, a restaurant, and bars and nightclubs nearby. Given the area鈥檚 rainforest, you鈥檒l have no shortage of options if the surf鈥檚 not up. Kayak or SUP the Punta Uva River in search of monkeys and toucans, or get close to sloths and wildcats on a walk at the Jaguar Rescue Center. Cahuita National Park is a 30-minute drive from the hotel and laced with well-marked hiking trails that lead to snorkeling spots rich with marine life. From May to October, you鈥檙e likely to glimpse leatherback turtles hatching on the beaches. 鈥�Jen Murphy

Detour: New 国产吃瓜黑料 Bases

Kasiiya Papagayo

This 听on Costa Rica鈥檚 northern Pacific coast听is set on 123 acres of untouched jungle, with trails that lead to two empty beaches. Between the wildlife view颅ing (howler monkeys in the trees, eagle rays and turtles in the sea) and five palatial tented suites, Kasiiya rivals the most over-the-top African safari stays. (From $615)

Senda听Monteverde Hotel

If spotting a jewel-toned quetzal and two-toed sloths are on your wish list, then , three hours northwest of San Jos茅, is a dream base. A hanging bridge connects the property to Aguti Wildlife Reserve,听or drive 15 minutes to Monteverde Cloud Forest听Reserve, which听is home to more than 400 species of birds, 2,500 plants, and jaguars. (From $260)

Hotel Nantipa

The project of three Costa Rican friends, this is steps from some of Santa Teresa鈥檚 best surf breaks. If you aren鈥檛 a surfer, swap your sandals for hiking boots and explore nearby Monte颅zuma Waterfalls and Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve. (From $320)

Shred New Trails听Across Baja鈥檚 Sierra Cacachilas

When it comes to Baja, most people think humpback whales, monster Pacific swells, and jalape帽o-spiced margaritas sipped on empty beaches. Now mountain bikers eager to escape winter can add their own fantasy: cycling an expanding system of singletrack at , a solar-powered adventure resort with access to 34,600 acres in the Sierra Cacachilas between La Paz and kiteboarding hub La Ventana. Since 2014, an International Mountain Biking Association鈥搕rained, 15-person crew has been building what will eventually be 43 miles of singletrack on the ranch, with an eye toward erosion control and water management, which means the trails won鈥檛 be washed away in the next flash flood.

Twenty-five miles are complete, giving intermediate and advanced riders a few days鈥� worth of exploration in a trail system that feels like an arid Fruita, Colorado, with saguaro cactus and killer ocean views. The ten-mile Sky Trail will be finished in June and peaks at a summit that overlooks the sea before spilling into a giggle-out-loud downhill. Rancho Cacachilas also offers hiking and bird-watching, as well as on-site workshops in cheesemaking and seed storage. Or just kick back by the pool with a cocktail and take in the expansive view of Cerralvo Island in the Sea of Cortez.听鈥�Stephanie Pearson

Access and听Resources

Where to stay: With a direct line to the trails, Rancho Cacachilas鈥檚 rustic main lodging area Chivato has eight safari-style glamping tents and four rooms, plus outdoor showers and a small pool overlooking the sea. The minimum stay is two nights (from $175), which includes ac颅commodations, food, and activities. The ranch is open from October 1 to May 31.

Other activities: For a change of pace, guests can sign up for ROW 国产吃瓜黑料s鈥� eight-day Sea to Mountains 国产吃瓜黑料, which involves four days of sea-kayaking the wildlife-rich waters near Esp铆ritu Santo Island, followed by four nights at the ranch (from $2,040). Or take a six-hour camp ($399) or two-hour private lesson (from $190) with Evolution Kiteboarding in nearby La Ventana.

Need to know: Don鈥檛 bother renting a car鈥攕huttle buses are available from Los Cabos Airport to La Paz; from there, guests catch a private shuttle to the ranch. The Mountain and Bike Hub, an on-site rental and repair shop, offers high-performance dual-suspension rides (from $46 for four hours).

Snorkel听and Dive the Springs听of Northern Florida

As an aquatic wonder, Florida听is overlooked. Some 700 freshwater springs fed by mineral-rich aquifers bubble up from the limestone sponge the state sits on. From ground-level pools that reach down 100 feet to caverns created by sinkholes, these crystalline lagoons look like a cross between a Yucat谩n cenote and a Caribbean reef. And at a constant 72 degrees, they鈥檙e always the ideal temperature for snorkeling and diving. The small northern outlets of Branford, Fort White, Mayo, and Old Town are prime places to start exploring, due to their close proximity to the springs and to places to stay.

An hour and a half west of Jacksonville, 2,669-acre Ichetucknee Springs State Park is a great entry point, with bream-filled cerulean pools and a diveable open-颅ceiling cavern called Blue Hole. Thirty minutes west of Ichetucknee, less visited Troy Spring State Park features a sunken paddle-wheel riverboat, scuttled by Confederates as Union soldiers advanced in 1863, that makes for a good wreck-diving site. The park鈥檚 main pool, a 70-foot-deep cavern, is shaped like a funnel, with limestone formations that resemble brain coral. A dive here usually attracts hundreds of yellow-bellied slider turtles that swirl around you.

Ginnie Springs, a 35-minute drive southeast from Troy Spring, has a series of seven aquamarine pools along a two-mile trail that runs parallel to the Santa Fe River, filled with large gar, bass, and turtles. Plan a full day to snorkel or dive the springs. For technical divers, there鈥檚 also the Devil鈥檚 Spring system, with more than 30,000 feet of underground tunnels. Forty miles south, Devil鈥檚 Den Spring and nearby Blue Grotto, in the town of Williston, attract scuba and cave-certified divers, respectively, who come to explore the ancient fossil beds. Devil鈥檚 Den is a naturally lit underground pool, while Blue Grotto is 100 feet deep and has a passage to a 300-yard-long chamber. 鈥�Tony D鈥橲ouza

Where to Stay

听(from $20) is a mile from the park鈥檚 northern entrance, but consider a 20-minute drive to stay at 听(from $100) south of Branford. There are three cabins and a three-bedroom farmhouse on-site; book Earl Cabin, a cyprus-clad 19th-century shotgun house. Snorkeling gear is sold at the general store near the south entrance, but you鈥檒l need to bring your own diving equipment.

Primitive camping sites (from $23) dot 200-acre Ginnie Springs, many of them along the Santa Fe River. The three-bedroom 听(from $175) is also located in the park and has a large deck and a fully equipped kitchen. The park鈥檚 dive center rents equipment.

In the historic Old Florida town of Micanopy, 20 minutes south of Gainesville, the 11-room, two-cottage 听(from $125) makes a great base for divers headed to Blue Grotto and Devil鈥檚 Den Spring. Both sites offer full gear rental.

Land Some of the Caribbean鈥檚 Most Evasive Fish in Belize

The small fishing town of Punta Gorda in southern Belize听offers some of the most elusive catches on a fly. At the听edge of Port Honduras Marine Reserve, the area鈥檚 flats have a thriving population of permit, as well as big schools of bonefish and tarpon. Better yet, Punta Gorda, a 50-minute turboprop flight south from Belize City, still feels undiscovered. For more than 15 years, the Garbutt brothers鈥擠ennis, Eworth, Oliver, and Scully鈥攈ave been slowly putting the town on the map. Former commercial fishermen, the brothers now run a sportfishing charter company, dive outfit, and three-cabin lodge overlooking Joe Taylor Creek, from which their boats depart (from $1,340 for three nights).

The day starts with a breakfast burrito as you motor to spots chosen by the Garbutts鈥攕ometimes a small island in the Gulf of Honduras, some颅times coastal marshes, depending on tides and wind. Aboard a 23-foot super-panga with casting decks and poling platforms, your guides will propel the skiff into the shallows while searching for fish. Along the way, it鈥檚 common to spot manatees, lemon sharks, and dolphins. The brothers also have exclusive access to Lime Caye, a shallow flat 40 miles east of Punta Gorda known for its bonefish, permit, and diving sites. 鈥擟hris Santella

Where to stay: If the three cabins at 听are booked, 听(from $179) has 16 spacious suites and a three-bedroom villa overlooking a 12,000-acre nature reserve. The hotel transports you by car to a nearby dock that the Garbutt brothers use to pick up anglers and divers.

Other activities: There are plenty of nonfishing adventures. At the southern edge of the Belize Barrier Reef, 36 miles east of Punta Gorda, snorkel or dive with manta rays, sea turtles, and, from March to June, whale sharks at Sapodillas Cayes Marine Reserve. The well-preserved Lubaantun ruins, a 19-mile drive from Punta Gorda, date back to 730 A.D. After, cool off with a swim in Hokeb Ha Cave about ten miles southwest.

When to go: December through April is high season in Belize, with clear skies and temperatures around 80 degrees. Permit and most fish species are present all year.

What to bring: While the Garbutt brothers have a few rods to loan, most anglers bring a nine- or ten-weight and floating line. Bauer and raghead crabs are popular flies.

Hike an Entire Island Along Dominica鈥檚 Waitukubuli听National Trail

This volcanic island between Martinique and Guadeloupe was well on its way to becoming the Caribbean鈥檚 top adventure destination when Hurricane Maria hit in 2017. Many of its neighbors are focused on rebuilding as quickly as possible, but Dominica听is working toward a different goal. Following the hurricane, prime minister Roosevelt Skerrit pledged to make the small country of 73,000 the world鈥檚 first climate-resilient nation. In the past few months, long-awaited eco-hotels like 听and 听opened, and the country鈥檚 biggest draw, the 115-mile Waitukubuli National Trail, is expected to be complete by the spring, with final clearing efforts by volunteers, the government, and the private sector.

The entire length can be broken up into day hikes ranging from four to 11.2 miles, each showcasing a different aspect of Dominica鈥檚 dramatic topography. The first segment (4.7 miles) begins in Scotts Head Village, at the island鈥檚 southwestern tip, and traverses a wildlife-rich volcanic area and a series of hot sulphur springs. The trail culminates in the seaside village of Soufri猫re, where you can snorkel Soufri猫re鈥揝cotts Head Marine Reserve, a bay filled with underwater fumaroles and colorful reefs. On segment four, a challenging eight-mile rainforest route, you鈥檒l hit lookouts with views of five of the island鈥檚 peaks and traverse a deep gorge in the heart of Morne Trois Pitons National Park, home to the famous Boiling Lake, set in a lunar landscape.

Follow that with segment ten, a 4.3-mile meander through a forest that connects to the Syndicate Nature Trail. Join the island鈥檚 chief ornithologist, Bertrand 鈥淒r. Birdy鈥� Jno Baptiste, for a one-mile-loop detour to spot parrots endemic to the island, like the red-necked Amazon, or jaco, and the Imperial Amazon, or sisserou. Even if the rarest birds stay hidden, Dr. Birdy will make sure you spot at least a few dozen of the island鈥檚听167 species. 鈥�

Detour:听New Eco-Lodges

Jungle Bay

After being destroyed in 2015 by Tropical Storm Erika, , a boutique wellness resort overlooking Soufri猫re鈥揝cotts Head Marine Reserve, reopened in June. Run by a Dominican couple leading the charge on sustainable practices, the lodge uses solar energy (emitting 30 percent less carbon than traditional resorts) and has 30 eco-villas with bamboo furnishings and biodegradable bathroom products. The Waitukubuli National Trail is just an eight-minute drive south. (From $294)

Cabrits Resort and Spa Kempinski

Set adjacent to Cabrits National Park, this opened in October with two dining options and four swimming pools. The hotel gets an estimated 60 percent of its food from local farmers and fishermen, and it uses solar energy and a gray-water treatment system, diverting waste water to irrigation. Nearby, you can visit some of the island鈥檚 most spectacular beaches, SUP or snorkel crystal-clear Toucari Bay, and access Waitukubuli National Trail鈥檚 segment 12. (From $370)

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A note from Secret Bay (10/24/2017):听On the evening of听Monday, September 18, the island of Dominica sustained a direct hit from Hurricane Maria. At the time, the resort was closed for regular maintenance and, thus, no guests were on-site. We are heartbroken to report our beloved Secret Bay has suffered significant damage at the hands of the storm. Our team is currently assessing the damage with hope to reopen in the future. Those interested in future stays at Secret Bay will be added to our database and contacted as soon as a reopening date is determined. Our hope, and the strength to restore resort grounds and villas, is multiplied exponentially by the outpouring of support that has come our way since the storm. On behalf of Secret Bay鈥檚 ownership, executive team and management, we are deeply and eternally grateful.

Renowned Venezuelan architect presented his daughter, Sandra, with the ultimate wedding gift: a treehouse-style villa on the small, lush island of , perched atop a dramatic 120-foot cliff overlooking Prince Rupert Bay.

Sandra and her听husband went on to incorporate their 2,700-square-foot retreat into a boutique eco-resort, erecting five more villas and two smaller bungalows. They called it , and it lives up to the name. Guests feel like they鈥檙e floating above the forest canopy, enjoying 180-degree views of azure salt water and Dominica鈥檚 moun颅tains. With decks for meditation, yoga, and sunset watching, meals of lobster and local greens with homemade herb vinaigrette, kayaks and SUPs at the ready, and three secluded white-sand beaches at their disposal, some visitors never leave the property.

That鈥檚 understandable, but there鈥檚 a lot to do on this 290-square-mile island. A rich rainforest covers 60 percent of Dominica, home to the rare Sisserou parrot, the world鈥檚 second-largest boiling lake, over 350 rivers, and the Caribbean鈥檚 first long-distance hiking path, the 115-mile . Offshore, there鈥檚 diving on , named for the bubbles that rise up through the sand from an underwater hot spring. Hire a guide and spear lionfish, an invasive species in the Caribbean known for its poisonous dorsal spikes. It also happens to be delicious, especially when the Secret Bay chef grills it up for dinner.

Dominica

Access: Fly to Dominica on American, Delta, or JetBlue, with a connection in San Juan, Puerto Rico, to Seaborne Airlines.

Climate: Temperatures range from 70 to 90 degrees year-round. Average annual rainfall is 70 inches, so plan to go from February to April, the driest season.听

Detour: Day-hike a section of the Waitukubuli National Trail, which winds through local villages, the ruins of an 18th-century French settlement, and iconic Emerald Pool, a cascading waterfall in the 17,000-acre Morne Trois Pitons National Park.

Indulge: Try a four-handed massage. Two therapists set up shop on the deck of your villa, cleansing the skin before applying a soothing herbal infusion to stimulate circulation.

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Don’t put your tent in storage just yet. During our colder months, some great southern hemisphere trails shine and a few too-hot-for-summer circuits open up in our southerly states and in the Caribbean. From a couple of weeks to a few days, here are some worthy long walks to take this winter that don’t involve snow.

W Trek, Patagonia

35 miles;听4 days;听November to March

On the W Trek in Chile鈥檚 Torres Del Paine National Park, you鈥檙e never far from view of the iconic, glaciated granite spires that sore eight thousand feet into the air above Patagonia. The trek boasts stunning mountain scenery: turquoise alpine lakes, enormous glaciers, and beech forests. Weather on this track is notoriously temperamental but is most stable during our winter. 听runs tours for the uninitiated (from $3,545), but if you鈥檝e been on an overnight and feel comfortable navigating in a Spanish-speaking country, you can do it yourself. Tack on a few more days to do the Circuit鈥攁 10-day, 52-mile journey around the entire , including the W.

Ozark Highlands Trail, Arkansas

165 contiguous miles (218 total);听10 to 14 days;听October to early February

The 听is one of the few American trails etched into the wilderness mostly by hikers, who completed a large portion of system after federal funding stopped flowing in the early 1980s. Switchbacks and connectors sling you east and west over ridgelines and flat topped mountains (maxing out at 2,380 feet), littered with creeks, ponds, and a forest of red cedars, white oak, and pawpaw groves. In summer, the water sources tend to dry up but the humidity soars. It鈥檚 doable in fall and spring鈥攋ust be wary of the cold and wet March and April weather鈥攂ut if you go in winter, when the days are in the mid-50s and night鈥檚 at around freezing, you鈥檒l have the place all to yourself. Stock up in 听about 45 minutes away. Only have a few days? The 37 mile stretch between Fairview and Ozone is especially beautiful.

Tongariro Northern Circuit, New Zealand

27 miles; 3 to 4 days;听December to April

Tongariro Crossing is a 12-mile path that shows off New Zealand鈥檚 most otherworldly capabilities鈥攊f you鈥檝e seen The Lord of the Rings, you’ll know it as Mordor. Plenty do it on an eight-hour day hike, but there are another two or three days of less crowded emerald lakes, volcanic peaks, and golden tussock-filled valleys in the wilderness beyond. If you plan to hike the entire out, you鈥檒l need听a听permit, which will start to sell out towards the end of the year. You can use the backcountry hut system, which have heat and water during the southern hemisphere summer.

Black Canyon Trail, Arizona

82 miles;听7 days;听November to April

What began as an early Native American trading route became a stagecoach path on the frontier, a livestock road in the 20th century, and, as of 2008, a , run by the Bureau of Land Management. The bike-friendly trail winds along the floor of saguaro-clad dessert at the feet of the Bradshaw mountains and through classic frontier scenery. Stock up in Prescott or Phoenix, which are both about 40 miles away from the trailhead. And even though it鈥檒l be nice and warm, with temperatures ranging from 40 to 70 degrees,听wear good long pants and boots鈥攖his is rattlesnake country.

South Coast Track, Tasmania, Australia

40 miles;听6 to 8 days;听December to April

What was once a journey of survival for shipwrecked sailors is now an undulating playground of empty gold-sand beaches, primitive jungles, and the high alpine passes of the Ironbound Mountains. The trailhead to one of the roughest hikes on the island of Tasmania鈥攖he 鈥攊s reached only via air: fly into Melaleuca, a remote finger of land in southwest Tasmania, from Cambridge airport, located in the greater area of Hobart.听You’ll need a permit and supplies, which you can get through , the airline that operates the route. If you’d like a guide, 听(from $2,695) has been running small group expeditions since the 1980s.

Mountains of the Moon, Uganda

43 miles;听8 to 9 days;听December to March

Think of the Mountains of the Moon trail as the longer, more remote听alternative African alpine summit to Kilimanjaro. The trek, which originates in听Rwenzori national park, nine hours鈥� drive west of the capital of Kampala,听includes the summit of Margherita Peak, Africa’s third highest at 16,762 feet, with views over southwestern Uganda’s snow-capped Rwenzori Mountains. Our winter is the only season where you won鈥檛 need crampons to summit Margherita; it鈥檚 also the best chance to see the rare Rwenzori leopard. Pick up a guide in the capital of听, or book ahead of time with , which leads guided 13-day听tours that include gorilla tracking.

Waitukubuli Trail, Dominica

115 miles; 14 days;听January to May

The Caribbean’s longest walking trail is driest and coolest in winter. It snakes through , known for its boiling lake and waterfalls, and crosses the 听and northern jungle, before skirting the northern coast to , where you can jump into the Caribbean and check out Dominica’s oldest fort. Along the way you’ll stay in local communities, either camping, at bed and breakfasts, or in home stays. It’s fairly simple to do this one alone鈥攖he Park will help you prepare , but you can also find a guide in , the town closest to the trailhead.

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You're in the pastiest grips of winter, but all is not lost. These destinations are perfect for last-minute escapists. In no time at all you'll be upping your Vitamin D intake while bombing a volcano, riding empty breaks, or even cycling around an island paradise.

Bomb the Trails in Maui, Hawaii

Among the Hawaiian Islands, Maui has the trifecta of accessibility (direct flights from West Coast cities), climate (the North Shore gets just 18 inches of rain per year), and adventure ( is a geological moonscape with 鈥╝ 10,000-foot volcano). The best way to enjoy it: on knobby tires.

Base yourself in the small upland town of Makawao and crash at the (cottages from $155). 鈥═hat puts you adjacent to Bike Park Maui, a new 80-acre terrain park created by Paul Turner, the founder of RockShox. 鈥↗ust down the road is , where owner Moose will set you up with a bike, maps, and trail reports (rentals from $35).A ten-minute drive (or 45-minute uphill ride) from the shop is , where 28 miles of recently upgraded singletrack weave through canopy rainforest, including a Whistler-style flow section. Then there鈥檚 Maui鈥檚 ultimate ride: bombing down the slopes of Haleakala on the 19-mile . Commercial shuttles are prohibited in the park, so your crew will need to rent a second car to leave at the end, near Kula. The trail drops 7,000 feet from the bone-dry summit, passing through high desert, forests of native koa and Spanish pine, and lush pastureland.

Surf Empty Beaches at Rancho Santana, Nicaragua

Nicaragua鈥檚 Pacific coastline has the same waves as neighboring Costa Rica, but without the crowded lineups. , a two-hour drive south of Managua (direct flights from Houston, Miami, and Atlanta) is a 2,700-acre resort community where you can rent a villa or stay at a new inn opening in March. The property sits on two miles of coastline with five distinct beaches.Playa Santana, steps away from the clubhouse, offers a consistent beach break, plus swimming and tuna fishing (board rentals from $25 per day). Playa Los Perros, a short drive from the inn, has a renowned reef break that peels both ways.Or go for total privacy at Playa Duna, an isolated beach that requires a ten-minute drive (or 20-minute bike ride) and a rocky scramble, but rewards the effort with dramatic rock formations and a 50-foot dune.

When there鈥檚 no swell, the resort has yoga, horseback riding, and guided mountain-bike tours to a nearby hot spring. Just make it back in time for dinner at , the property鈥檚 farm-to-table restaurant, with produce grown on-site. From $249.

Find Solitude in Tulum, Mexico

It鈥檚 no longer the overlooked and bargain-priced gem it used to be, but it鈥檚 still got white-sand beaches, turquoise water, and a stunning Maya temple, all just a 90-minute drive from Cancun, which can be reached by direct flights from dozens of U.S. cities. The key is to avoid the spring break hordes, which take over in mid-March, and know where to escape the crowds the rest of the year.

Your best bet for guaranteed solitude is a guided trip into the Sian Ka鈥檃n biosphere, a 1.3-million-acre Unesco World Heritage site that features tropical forests, mangroves, and marshes along one of the largest barrier reefs in the world. Picture the Everglades, but with ancient ruins, clear lagoons, and spider monkeys. Maya-owned runs daily trips that can be customized to include bird watching, archaeology, snorkeling, and kayaking (from $55).

There are tons of great dining and lodging options, but we鈥檙e partial to , a beachfront boutique hotel that serves spear-caught fish grilled over a wood fire and is located next to a dive shop (from $165), and , where in-the-know travelers line up for local Maya dishes.

Ride the World's Best Roads in Gran Canaria, Spain

It takes a full day of flying to get here鈥攜ou need to stop in Madrid鈥攂ut the journey is worth it. February and early March are the shoulder season on this Spanish island off the coast of Morocco, when daytime temps hover around 70 degrees and you鈥檒l have some of the world鈥檚 best road biking mostly to yourself. Pro cyclists train on Gran Canaria in winter because they can climb from sea level to 6,000 feet on perfect pavement with little traffic in glorious weather.

Several outfitters offer packaged riding tours of the island, but you can have more fun on a free-spirited DIY trip. Get a high-end bike and route tips from in Maspalomas, which also offers guided group rides 鈥╯ix days a week (rentals from $20, guided rides from $60).

Set up camp 20 minutes to the northwest at the (from $300) in the fishing village of Puerto de Mog谩n, where you鈥檒l have immediate access to a number of classic routes, including the Valley of Tears, an 80-mile loop that climbs 9,800 feet at an average grade of 10 percent鈥攁nd a maximum of 25.

Swim Where No One Is Watching in Dominica, 鈥╓est Indies

Dominica is among the least inhabited and least visited Caribbean islands, partly because two-thirds of it is rainforest. Beaches are scarce, the snorkeling is mediocre, and there are no golf courses. Which is fine: you come here to trek remote trails and swim in secluded spring-fed pools.

There are no direct flights from the U.S., but it鈥檚 only a two-hour flight from Puerto Rico, on Seaborne Airlines (tip: book directly with the carrier). From the oceanside (from $158), in the capital of Roseau, it鈥檚 a 15-minute drive to the village of Laudat, access point for Morne Trois Pitons National Park and the 115-mile Waitukubuli National Trail, which bisects the island from north to south. The full walk takes about two weeks, but from Laudat it鈥檚 just a half-mile to Titou Gorge, where you can swim in crystal-clear water through a narrow volcanic slot canyon to a waterfall. Continue on for five forested miles through the Valley of Desolation, with its sulfur rivers and volcanic vents, to Boiling Lake, where the water is heated to 180 degrees by magma. A guide is strongly recommended for the ($75).

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Rum鈥攈istorically guzzled by Hemingway, happy islanders, and frat bros spring-breaking in Fort Lauderdale鈥攊s having a renaissance. But forget the blended slushies, Flaming Zombies, and tiki bars. Modern rums are as smooth and drinkable as fine cognac鈥攁nd considerably less expensive.

In Jamaica, the heart of rum culture, the spirit is becoming tastier than ever. The oldest distillery in the land, Appleton Estate, has been making rum since the mid 1700鈥檚. Their , readily available in the US, is a balanced rum that mixes well and, at $35 a bottle, hardly a budget-buster.

Brugal Rum is another Carribean rum that carries the (tiki) torch for the islands. The only 100% Dominican rum on the market, Brugal is truly a local operation to this day, with family members not only as owners in the company, but supervising the technical details of every batch. Deep texture of cinnamon and nutmeg, ($55) is an expression of chocolate, honey, and brown sugar, with a finish of mulled wine and apple spice. And yes, it鈥檚 as amazing as it sounds.

While few consider rum an American-sourced product, Jim Meehan (of PDT fame in New York City) has helped create a solid blend from five islands around the world. Banks 5 Island ($29) sources rums from 6 distilleries in Jamaica, Trinidad, Guyana, Barbados, and Java, to make a delicious, clean, and more mixable drink.

If you are going for pure class, and a sultry, sippable rum, ($37) is worth the hunt. Sometimes tough to find in the U.S., Ron Diplomatico is one of the most award-winning rums in the world. Hailing from Venezuela, this fine spirit is aged for at least 12 years, and features the raisin, cinnamon, banana, and vanilla flavors that your palate dreams of when swashbuckling through your weekend.

Still want to relive a bit of that Hemingway style? Check out , from Hemingway Rum Company. Winner of the 鈥淒ouble Gold鈥� at the 2013 World Spirits Competition in San Francisco, this fine sipper comes in Dark ($40) and Blonde ($30). The former is a well-aged (up to 24 years) blend with a long, velvety finish, while the Blonde is part of a growing class of rums that forego the aging process to showcase the 鈥減ure鈥� taste of the ingredients.

We鈥檙e not gonna fault you if you want to mix one of these into a mojito, or pour into a flaming Zombie at your favorite tiki bar. But try them alone on the rocks if you really want to know why this under appreciated spirit is making a bold comeback.听

Sinjin Eberle is director of , and a licensed spirits sommelier.

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Overrated destinations don鈥檛 exist鈥攐nly unimaginative travelers. You can turn any trip, even to the lamest of foreign tourist traps, into a cultural adventure with a little planning and research. So, instead of focusing on a specific 鈥渙verrated鈥� country or town, I鈥檒l point out a couple of popular, well-known resorts鈥攚hich we鈥檒l call 鈥渙verrated鈥濃�攖hat you can probably erase from your must-visit list. (Hint, you鈥檒l notice that I can鈥檛 stand massive, self-contained, all-inclusive resorts filled with Americans who never venture off-property.) I鈥檒l also recommend some quiet spots鈥攆or our purposes: 鈥渦nderrated鈥濃�攖hat might be off your radar.

Coconut Beach Club, Antigua
Excellence, Punta Cana, Dominican Republic
Jungle Bay, Dominica
The Royal, Cancun, Mexico

Underrated Caribbean Retreats: Coconut Beach Club, Antigua

I鈥檓 a huge fan of the safe, placid island of Antigua and its uncrowded beaches. The people鈥攆rom the sailing partiers of Falmouth Harbor in the south to the shopkeepers of St. Johns on the north end鈥攁re warm and welcoming, as long as you remember to drive on the left side of the road. offers 59 wooden, open Caribbean-style cottages perched above the ocean, where you can watch the waves fall onto the long, white beach from the hammock or Adirondack chairs on your balcony. Rates start at $375 a night.

Overrated Caribbean Retreats: Excellence, Punta Cana, Dominican Republic

To say that Punta Cana, on the eastern side of the island, gets a little overrun with American tourists is like saying that Wisconsinites sort of have a thing for cheese. It鈥檚 with good reason, though. Punta Cana鈥檚 sugary beaches, warm, shallow waters, and tropical climate are ideals of a Caribbean vacation. But if you鈥檙e going to the deservedly world-renowned, adults-only , you鈥檙e probably not planning to ever leave the property, which occupies a mile-long stretch of beach all to itself. Boasting nearly 450 rooms, nine restaurants, and a 4,500-square-foot fitness center, it practically dares you to find a reason to venture off its secluded confines. Rates start at $462 a night.

Underrated Caribbean Retreats: Jungle Bay Resort, Dominica

Sleepy, barely-discovered Dominica is kind of like Costa Rica, just on its own island鈥攙erdant, hilly, and filled with tropical beauty. Domica attracts an outdoorsy set who prefer zip-lining and hiking through volcano-carved jungles over sunbathing. And the finest of the island鈥檚 small selection of eco-resorts is . Its hardwood-framed cottages, etched into the steep hillside on stilts鈥攕ome that require a 200-step climb from the main path鈥攐verlook the water and offer seclusion within the jungle. Rates start at $283 a night.

Overrated Caribbean Retreats: The Royal, Cancun

Cancun. Need I say more? The beach bars are like Venus flytraps filled with Jell-O shots, or something, but you really can have some non-Spring Break fun here if you try. There are the archeological sites at Chichen Itza and Tulum, the magnificent island of Isla Mujeres, and, of course, the beach at Cancun itself. One of the more highly-regarded resorts is 鈥攊f you鈥檙e into sprawling, soul-sucking concrete palaces with 288 satellite-TV-equipped rooms, eight restaurants (with cuisine covering four continents), 14 bars, a jewelry store, and unisex beauty salon. Ugh. But hey, if that鈥檚 your thing, by all means. Rates start at $647 a night.

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Dominica has steep folded jungles, dozens of backdrops used in Pirates of the Caribean, and the chronic misfortune of being mistaken for the Dominican Republic, 500 miles to the northwest. But with few beaches and a rugged interior, it’s dodged the crowds that descend upon its tax-haven neighbors every winter. Our kind of island. Last fall, I joined pro kayaker Brad Ludden and three others to paddle Dominica’s unexplored rivers. We found what we’d expected鈥攚hitewater of every grade鈥攑lus much more we hadn’t, like a half-day sea-kayaking route along the lush thousand-foot cliffs of the southeastern shore, superb snorkelling where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean, and guided canyoneering in the slots of Titou Gorge. These fresh pursuits cluster conveniently around the year-old, locally owned Jungle Bay Resort & Spa (doubles from $500; ), 35 stilted cottages and鈥攂ecause this is still paradise鈥攁n airy, stone yoga studio overlooking the Atlantic.

Kayaking Dominica

PADDLE TO THE SEA: Brad Ludden at the take-out from Dominica's White River after completing a first decent with the author

American () flies from Puerto Rico.

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Om Away from Home: Jungle Bay Resort & Spa, Dominica

Waterworld: Mesoamerican Reef, Belize

O Captain! My Captain!: The Arabella, St. Barth茅lemy

Greco-Caribbean Fusion: The Beach House, Barbuda

A Resort Reborn: Club Med Buccaneer's Creek, Martinique

Fly Me to the Surf: Macaw Air, Costa Rica

Om Away from Home

Jungle Bay Resort & Spa, Dominica

Jungle Bay Resort

The Path to Laziness and Enlightenment: Jungle Bay Resort

Wellness is the operative word at Jungle Bay, a yoga-centric tropical getaway that opened last February on Dominica. The locale is all restorative calm: Fifty elevated hardwood cottages鈥攚ith white cedar platform beds, private outdoor showers and decks, and swaying hammocks鈥攁re tucked away in the rainforested foothills near Morne Trois Pitons National Park, an eastern-Caribbean UNESCO World Heritage site. Visitors salute the sun at dawn yoga classes on an easterly veranda overlooking the Atlantic鈥攐r throughout the day in the airy 2,400-square-foot studio, housed in the volcanic-stone-and-hardwood main lodge. Just up the trail is Jungle Bay's spa, where guests can opt for a deep-tissue aromatherapy massage in an open-air pavilion suspended over the crashing surf.

Afternoons are for island explorations: Spot pods of sperm whales from the cockpit of a sea kayak or grab a mountain bike and blaze the island's long, steep grades. Better yet, take a hike: The ten-hour round-trip trek to 4,747-foot Morne Diablotin, the island's tallest peak, is a lush visual feast, with massive tree ferns, orchid blooms, banana trees, and endangered and endemic red-necked and imperial Amazon parrots. Fuel for all the jungle tramping and warrior ones: Dominican specialties like breadfruit salads, roasted plantain, and fresh-squeezed tamarind juice. Seven days from $1,400 per person, including airport transfer, meals, and all activities; 767-446-1789,

Waterworld

Mesoamerican Reef, Belize

Many water-faring visitors to Belize bomb through coastal Belize City and beeline straight for the Blue Hole, the country's best-known diving-and-snorkeling attraction. Starting this winter, World Wildlife Fund is offering a brand-new snorkeling expedition that dives into many other wonders of the Mesoamerican Reef, the world's second-largest barrier reef and a WWF priority conservation zone that's home to more than 60 species of coral and more than 500 species of fish.

Traveling from Belize City aboard Le Levant鈥攁 45-cabin expedition ship featuring a fleet of Zodiacs for land excursions, on-demand scuba gear, and lip-smacking French cuisine鈥攖he trip carves a counterclockwise loop through some of the most pristine and least visited expanses of the reef. Led by renowned marine biologist Joel Simon, guests will snorkel through far-flung spots like South Water Caye Marine Reserve, the habitat of choice for endangered manatees and rare longsnout seahorses, and the Turneffe Islands' soaring coral pinnacles. There's also landlubber adventure, with guided visits to red-footed booby reserves, secluded mangrove forests, an important grouper spawning ground at Glover's Reef atoll, and Carrie Bow Caye, a Smithsonian marine-research field station. A team of lecturers and naturalists complements the site visits with expert analysis and explanation. And don't worry: The ship even calls at the rightly renowned Blue Hole. Eight days from $4,390, all-inclusive; 888-993-8687,

O Captain! My Captain!

The Arabella, St. Barth茅lemy

Arabella

All Tans on Deck: Island hopping on the Arabella

If you've always wanted to yacht like a blue-blooded New Englander but couldn't stand the chill, take note: This January, the 160-foot Arabella will add a seven-day itinerary through the islands of St. Bart's, French St. Martin, and Anguilla to its list of regular northerly routes. Starting in Marigot, the caf茅-filled village capital of St. Martin, you'll sail around the Caribbean in style: The intimate 20-stateroom yacht has in-cabin satellite television and phones, a hot-water spa, and daily deckside hors d'oeuvres and spiced rum punch. You can also arrange for one-on-one sailing tutorials on the Arabella's operations with the ship's captain and crew.

Leave the mother ship for day trips swimming and snorkeling at Colombier Bay Beach, a private, sandy cove accessible only by boat or a half-hour hike along a steep, rocky goat path. Or drop anchor at 脦le Fourche, a jewel of a deserted island that teems with undersea life, for world-class diving and sea kayaking. The trip finishes off with a dinner at the exclusive Eden Rock hotel, in St. Jean鈥攐nce a hideaway for Garbo, it's perched high on a rocky promontory. Here, you'll be right at home uttering her famous line from Anna Christie: “Gimme a whiskey, ginger ale on the side. And don't be stingy, baby!” From $1,295, based on double occupancy, including most meals and activities; 800-395-1343,

Greco-Caribbean Fusion

The Beach House, Barbuda

Greko-pillared Beach House

The Greeks Have It: The Greko-pillared Beach House

Miles of pink-sand beaches front the aptly named Beach House, a tranquil 21-room lodge that opened last year on the tiny scuba paradise of Barbuda, one of Antigua's sister islands. The look is Greek-island-meets-minimalist, with distinctive whitewashed buildings, teak deck chairs, and spare walls hung with black-and-white photographs. But the atmosphere is Caribbean luxe: Guests are met with frosty cocktails brought by “service ambassadors,” designated personal butlers who set up complimentary welcome massages and diving, fishing, and horseback excursions around the island. A gleaming saltwater pool is the centerpiece of the open-air Club House, which also features a library, bar, and fusion restaurant with seafood specialties like lobster tagliatelle. A short walk through the lounge leads to breezy beaches where snorkelers can mingle with rays, dolphins, and schools of barracuda. Post-swim, settle into an overstuffed white recliner and ponder the gushy collision of the Atlantic and the Caribbean. There are no televisions in the guest rooms, which feature king-size four-poster beds, but rest assured: Upon departure you'll wish you were always so unplugged. Doubles from $750; 888-776-0333,

A Resort Reborn

Club Med Buccaneer's Creek, Martinique

Club Med is branching out into more “upmarket” territory, and the company's $60 million overhaul of its Buccaneer's Creek resort, which reveals its white-sand beaches in mid-December on the Caribbean shores of Martinique, in the Lesser Antilles, sets the new standard.

The 55-acre, coconut-palm-grove property blooms with bougainvillea, hibiscus, and frangipani, as befits Martinique's hothouse status as the “Island of Flowers.” The resort's 293 brand-new French Caribbean鈥搒tyle rooms and suites come with goodies that wouldn't have been dreamed of back in 1969, when the resort originally opened: pillowtop beds, CD players, flat-screen televisions, and deluxe “rainshowers.” Other resort trappings include a jetted, 5,000-square-foot infinity pool surrounded by a flotilla of plush daybeds with glittering sea views. Club Med specializes in nonstop activity, so the resort's three beaches cater to every sand-and-surf whim. Seaside Zen? A new fitness palapa hosts yoga, meditation, and Pilates. Jet skiing? Head to the water-ski-and-wakeboard dock, on the same stretch of sand as the beach volleyball and live music. Quiet beach time more your thing? A third shore is strictly nonmotorized. Seven nights from $1,775, based on double occupancy, including airfare, meals, and activities; 800-258-2633,

Fly Me to the Surf

Macaw Air, Costa Rica

Every surfer worth his wax dreams of Costa Rica's tropical beaches, sun-glinted waves, and minimal crowds. But if the surf drops off at your favorite break鈥擳amarindo, for instance鈥攜ou might be stuck thumbing through the latest le Carr茅 novel while the waves crank away down south at the country's longest left, Pavones. After all, it's two days of jangling, potholed driving between the breaks.

Surfers now have an alternative. Launched in the fall of 2004, Macaw Air is the first coastal airline catering to the wave-chasing set. The brainchild of former Canadian mountain guide and charter pilot Chris Uniacke, Macaw neatly fills a hole: “No one was flying up and down the coast, and that's what surfers want to do,” explains Uniacke, who partnered with tour operator Greg Rothermel to offer reasonably priced, swell-dictated surf adventures. Packages like the Pavones and Matapalo Surf Getaway include the spectacular flight from Tamarindo to Puerto Jim茅nez, an air-conditioned shuttle ride to Matapalo Point's wicked breaks, and accommodation at a jungle eco-lodge鈥攁ll for less than $600. But if the surf's better elsewhere, Macaw will whisk you there.

You don't have to be a surfer to fly Macaw, either: Spend the morning deep-sea-fishing off the coast of Playa Flamingo, then sleep the night deep in the southern jungle amid the whoops of howler monkeys. Itineraries and prices vary; 011-506-653-1362,

Additional reporting by Shanti Sosienski

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