About six years ago, Nike debuted its 聽construction鈥攜arn wizardry designed to make athletic shoes as comfortable and well-fitting as a knit T-shirt. In July, it unveiled a sports bra with the same technology. After a season of testing, I'm impressed.
The 聽($80) looks like your聽basic pullover racerback. It has almost no seams, to minimize聽chafing, and a knit “underwire” (basically a strip of thicker fabric) below and between the breasts to provide聽support and definition. Uniboobs, get out of here.聽An open weave down the center of the back helps the bra breathe better.聽
When I first tested the Fe/Nom this summer, I was immediately聽struck by the聽fabric feel: it's聽unusually silky. This bra fits like a second skin, and it鈥檚 definitely softer and conforms聽better than most sports bras, even the highest-end ones.聽I鈥檝e now worn it for running and mountain biking, and found it to be perfectly supportive during both. It鈥檚 not a squasher/smasher bra鈥攊t allows enough space and movement to let me breathe deeply鈥攚hile also controlling bounce.聽
But I'm a C-cup. And Nike's boldest claim about the Fe/Nom is that in size XL, it comfortably聽supports a 36D. I was initially skeptical. For the past several years, I鈥檝e coordinated聽sports-bra testing for Runner鈥檚 World, and I鈥檝e never heard a D-cup tester endorse a pullover tank. The pullover racerback style聽tends to be too elastic to adequately聽support聽bigger breasts, as it needs to be stretchy enough to get over a wearer's head.聽
That said, Nike uses novel construction methods.聽Flyknit machines create knits with various shapes and properties, which designers can apply with impressive precision. If an athlete needs support here, breathability there, stretch somewhere else, Nike can seamlessly engineer those properties into different parts of the bra.聽
I wanted to see if this tech enabled it to solve the support issue, so I gave聽an XL Fe/Nom to a聽friend, who wears a 36D.聽She loved it.聽鈥淲ithout underwires or bulky seams, this bra is all comfort from the moment you put it on,鈥 she told me. She ran and did Crossfit workouts in the Fe/Nom, and found it to be just as supportive as the聽bulkier contraptions she鈥檚 used to.聽
I should note that when I had another friend (size 36DD) test the XL,聽she found it to be too bouncy to be comfortable while running. So it seems Nike's right: this bra works for women up to a 36D cup. But I'd love to see it聽design something for women with even bigger breasts鈥攖here are a聽lot of options for sizes up to 36D out there, and a lot fewer beyond that.聽
Other gripes: we all聽found the shoulder straps to be a touch too long for our torsos. That鈥檚 another design limitation with racerbacks鈥攚earers can鈥檛 adjust the distance from breasts to shoulders. But Nike says that future versions of the Flyknit bra will be offered in individual band and cup sizes, which should accommodate a wider range of body types.聽
Finally, this bra is unusually slow to dry, which surprised me given that open weave in back.聽Although I didn't聽notice the bra鈥檚 sweat-soaking nature while I was wearing it鈥攊t does a good job of wicking moisture away from my skin鈥攖he super-slick聽yarns apparently like to hold onto water. The bra stayed damp for an hour or two after my run. That means it's not a great 鈥渢rail-to-tavern鈥 bra, but it鈥檚 brilliant for workouts that end in a changing room.