Conventional wisdom says that Jamie MacMahan was doing everything right when, about a decade ago, he found himself caught in a rip current while swimming聽off the coast of Monterey, California. Rips flow seaward, out to deep water, so beach access signs across the country advise swimmers to paddle parallel to the beach to escape the them. The savage, dread-inducing flows kill more beachgoers each year than any other threat and MacMahan, a professor of oceanography and a strong swimmer, was following the 鈥渟wim parallel鈥 gospel, paddling steadily. But as he thrashed in the cold Pacific, the rip refused to relent. 鈥淚 thought, 鈥楾hat鈥檚 interesting,鈥欌 MacMahan says.
MacMahan, it鈥檚 important to note, had done this to himself. A rip current expert at the聽Naval Postgraduate School聽in Monterey,聽he had volunteered to subject himself to the rip for a safety video the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Organization was filming. With plenty of experience, he wasn鈥檛 in serious danger. 鈥淏ut as I was swimming parallel to the shore, left and right, I noticed that it was easier to swim one direction more than the other,鈥澛燤acMahan聽says. The safety guidelines he was promoting鈥攖he life-saving advice we tell the millions of Americans who flock to the beach each summer鈥攈e thought, could be wrong.
In the last five years, MacMahan鈥檚 research has upended the field of rip current studies. Since that initial experience in Monterey, he鈥檚 used GPS devices to meticulously track nearshore currents in the U.S., England, and France, and has jumped into rips around the world. Rips can form on any beach,聽MacMahan聽says, and swimmers usually聽don鈥檛 know聽a rip鈥檚 present until they鈥檙e in its clutches. Panicked victims often try to swim directly back to shore鈥攁gainst the powerful offshore flow. Swimmers familiar with rips might try swimming parallel to escape. But MacMahan鈥檚 research suggests doing the unthinkable: giving in and going with the flow.
鈥淚f you can relax鈥攁nd it鈥檚 a long time, for maybe three minutes鈥攜ou鈥檙e generally going to float back to the beach.鈥
Eighty to 90 percent of rips聽MacMahan聽has studied flow in huge circles, from the shallows, out through the breakers and back again, every few minutes. A swimmer stuck in a circulating rip has no way of knowing which way the current is flowing. That means that by swimming parallel to the shore鈥攕omething signs at nearly every popular beach in the country advise鈥攖he swimmer has a 50/50 chance of paddling against the deadly current.
鈥淚f you can relax鈥攁nd it鈥檚 a long time, for maybe three minutes鈥攜ou鈥檙e generally going to float back to the beach,鈥澛燤acMahan聽says.
It鈥檚 a radically simple finding鈥攐ne that challenges our primordial instincts and everything we think we know about beach safety. The discovery, which聽MacMahan聽published in聽聽in 2010聽and calls rip current 鈥渃irculation,鈥澛爄s still contentious聽six years later. His peer-reviewed findings have dramatically changed the way Australia tells its citizens how to survive this menace. But at home, MacMahan鈥檚 work is considerably more controversial and his research has opened a gaping divide in the sleepy rip current field.
鈥淭he reaction to Jamie鈥檚 findings has polarized the community,鈥 says Rob Brander, a prominent rip researcher. For some leaders in the field, MacMahan鈥檚 recommendation to simply float through a rip current is, at best, an idea to be ignored and dismissed; at worst, though, the advice is potentially deadly.
How Rip Currents Can Be Deadly
Chris Brewster, the International Life Saving Federation鈥檚 chief in the U.S. and a 30-year veteran of the beach tower, remembers the only victim he couldn鈥檛 save from a rip.
It was an unseasonably warm February day in 1988 and the surf was triple overhead at San Diego鈥檚 South Mission Beach, where Brewster was the lifeguard sergeant in command.* From the three-story guard tower, Brewster saw two swimmers getting sucked out to sea. 鈥淚t was an amazingly concentrated rip,鈥 he says. Brewster dispatched a lifeguard as the panicked swimmers tried to swim directly back to shore. Riding the current, which can flow as fast as eight feet per second鈥攕ignificantly speedier than an Olympic swimmer鈥檚 top speed鈥攖he lifeguard reached the first victim quickly. 鈥淏ut this kid, Sam Crawley, was pulled farther out,鈥 Brewster says. 鈥淚鈥檓 intently watching him. And he just gives it up and submerges. I think that鈥檚 the only time I鈥檝e ever watched somebody die.鈥
鈥淚鈥檒l remember this kid for the rest of my life,鈥 Brewster says. 鈥淚 had to call his dad to tell him his son was dead.鈥
The U.S. Lifeguard Association estimates that nearly聽, and that lifeguards saved over 48,000 people from rips聽. The typical victim is like Crawley: he or she struggles against the unrelenting pull, panics, and eventually succumbs to exhaustion. Rips can form on any beach with waves, including the Great Lakes, in nearly any conditions. They occur when water pushed onto the beach by surf or wind flows back out to sea in narrow, concentrated channels and they can be anywhere from ten to 200 feet wide. To make matters worse, their outward course often dulls the breaking waves and creates the illusion of calmer waters for inexperienced beachgoers. Lifeguards call rips 鈥渄rowning machines,鈥 and Brewster believes if Crawley had swum parallel to the current, rather than tire himself out by grinding against it, he might have lived.
When I called Brewster to ask him about circulation, he was a little exasperated. 鈥淚鈥檓 unhappy to see it printed,鈥 he said, referring to Jamie MacMahan鈥檚 research. 鈥淵ou have to understand: Jamie looks at it from a very scientific perspective. The logical thing, in his view, is try floating and see if that works.鈥 But nothing is logical when you鈥檙e being sucked out sea in pounding surf. 鈥淎re you going to make that very, shall we say 鈥榙ispassionate鈥 decision, when you think you might die?鈥
Brewster is not alone in his resistance. The U.S. Lifesaving Association聽has refused to incorporate MacMahan鈥檚 research into its advice for beachgoers and instead supports NOAA鈥檚 public advisory campaign that urges swimmers to 鈥渂reak the grip of the rip鈥 and swim parallel to the shore. Spencer Rogers, a researcher directly involved in NOAA鈥檚 campaign says that while the evidence is being reevaluated, 鈥淲e don鈥檛 think we can tell somebody just to float.鈥
Recent research on the East Coast by Rogers, a coastal erosion expert affiliated with the research outfit North Carolina Sea Grant, showed that while most rips in North Carolina do circulate, about half stopped after several laps and deposited any floating GPS trackers out to sea,聽. Rogers says that while circulating cells most definitely exist鈥攁nd are particularly persistent where聽MacMahan聽carried out his research in California鈥攖he phenomenon isn鈥檛 consistent or widespread enough to change the way we talk about surviving rips.聽Every beach is different, Roger says.
鈥淲e put people in rips that are good swimmers or shitty swimmers. Everything we鈥檝e done points to the fact that there鈥檚 not one single message that works.”
MacMahan聽readily acknowledges that not all rips take swimmers back to shore, but still advises a 鈥渇loat first鈥 approach. The current guidelines, he says, frighten swimmers and encourage them to overexert themselves trying to escape the rip. 鈥淎 lot of the rip current educational info instills fear and panic,鈥 he says. 鈥淭here are other brochures with pictures of a beach with a tombstone that says RIP. I say, if I鈥檓 someone who has seen this in my peripheral and end up in a rip current, that tells me I鈥檓 dead. Then you panic. You haven鈥檛 created a sense of survival.鈥
How to Survive a Rip Tide: The Science
The best place to look to understand the science of rip currents, and how to survive them, may be the beach-happy continent of Australia, where 85 percent of the population lives by the coast and surfing is a national pastime. There, the danger of rip currents is more seared into the public conscious.
On February 6, 1938, crowds packed 厂测诲苍别测鈥檚 famed Bondi beach to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Britain鈥檚 colonization of the continent. A little after 3 p.m., on what would become known as Black Sunday, a set of large waves swept through the surf zone and wiped away the sand bar. Suddenly, hundreds of swimmers found themselves being pulled out to sea. Lifeguards were overwhelmed and 鈥渟ome of them had to punch their way through a wall of distressed bathers to get to others in more danger,鈥 . The beach, at one point, was littered with the unconscious bodies of 60 victims. All told, 200 some odd people were plucked from the water and, after herculean resuscitation efforts, only five died.
Today, rips kill more Australians than bushfires, floods, cyclones, and sharks combined. Perhaps as a result, the ideological riff over how to survive the currents has been more public. Surf Life Saving Australia, the country鈥檚 main water safety group, has worked closely with Rob Brander, a professor at the University of New South Wales who goes by the nickname 鈥淒r. Rip,鈥 and, in the last few years, the lifeguarding organization鈥檚 opinions have evolved with Brander鈥檚 studies.
Brander has worked with MacMahan and other prominent rip researchers around the world, but lately his studies have focused on something scholars ignored for decades: how swimmers caught in rips actually respond to the life or death terror of being pulled into deep water. He鈥檚 interviewed dozens of survivors and strapped GPS devices onto actual swimmers and put them into rips. The results are not so clear-cut.
鈥淲e put people in rips that are good swimmers or shitty swimmers,鈥 Brander says. 鈥淓verything we鈥檝e done points to the fact that there鈥檚 not one single message that works. Sometimes swim parallel is great, sometimes it doesn鈥檛 work. Same for floating.鈥
It鈥檚 a view that the Surf Life Saving Australia has taken, too. After working聽with Brander, they鈥檝e updated their messaging. Rips are a complex, dynamic hazard and the multitude of variables鈥攕wimming ability, current strength, circulation, wave size鈥攎ake the threat nearly impossible to solve with one-size-fits-all advice. No single 鈥渆scape strategy鈥 is appropriate all the time, the group now says, and lifeguards in Australia currently recommend combining the advice from both MacMahan鈥檚 circulation concept聽and traditionalists like Brewster. If you鈥檙e not a strong swimmer, stay afloat and signal for help; if you can swim, consider paddling parallel to the beach toward breaking waves鈥攖hough be mindful of the potential circulating current. 鈥淎ll responses,鈥 the group concedes, 鈥渉ave their pitfalls.鈥
In the U.S., no such compromise appears likely and the 鈥渆scape the rip鈥 signs promoting swimming parallel won鈥檛 be coming down any time soon. In the end, all any expert can do is promote public awareness of rips, MacMahan says. 鈥淭he scientific community has accepted [the circulating research],鈥澛燤acMahan聽says. 鈥淭hey don鈥檛 see flaws in our methodology. Until proven otherwise, we believe this is what we know. But changing policy is hard.鈥
*CORRECTION: A previous version of this story stated that Sam Crawley died at Ocean Beach.