After surfer Greg Long caught the biggest wave of his life, an undocumented 70-to 80-foot monster that formed in 2008, he shook, vomited, and cried. “There wasn't even a sense of stoke, or that excitement afterwards,” says Long. “That, I was outright terrified.”
Sine Qua Non, a 24-minute documentary profile of Long by , offers an intimate look into the Californian's quest to ride the world鈥檚 biggest waves. It works as much for what it contains鈥攈onest, plain discussions with Long's family and friends about the biggest and scariest moments of his life鈥攁s for what it lacks鈥攎oody music, surfing clich茅s, hyper-cut clips of big waves, and platitudes from colleagues. Long is no ordinary surfer, and this is no ordinary surf flick.
Watch it.
The film is the first in a series of profiles by . 聽