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Moe Lemire and Jeff Senterman, The Hiker Trash Husbands
Moe Lemire and Jeff Senterman, The Hiker Trash Husbands

What It鈥檚 Like to Fall in Love on a Long Hike

Lots of people say they hike to change their lives. For some, that starts by changing their love lives.

Published: 
Moe Lemire and Jeff Senterman, The Hiker Trash Husbands

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The first night Magpie asked Constantine to make out, he demurred鈥攁t least initially.

The two long-distance hikers had met ten days or so into a thru-hike of the remote聽 (PNT). For three weeks聽they burned聽through the miles and, that night, crammed into a double bed in a stranger鈥檚 house in Washington, they were much too exhausted鈥攐r so Ryan 鈥淐onstantine鈥 Bunting thought鈥攆or a first kiss. 鈥淲e did make out,鈥 remembers Dana 鈥淢agpie鈥 Pica, with a laugh. 鈥淏ut we realized we were both so sore that we just went to sleep.鈥

Before beginning the PNT in Montana鈥檚 Glacier National Park in June 2019, Magpie had endured a breakup. She鈥檇 had on-trail romances before, and Constantine, she thought, was funny and handsome enough for a rebound fling鈥攕ome 鈥渢rail tail,鈥 she kids. Their biggest challenge soon became privacy, or finding enough time and space away from other hikers to be like any other zealous young couple.

鈥淭here are certain things you don鈥檛 do after being on trail for six days鈥攍ike, you don鈥檛 put your mouth anywhere interesting,鈥 Magpie laughs. 鈥淏ut we鈥檙e both gross, so who cares?鈥

Magpie (right) and Constantine on the Arizona Trail
Magpie (right) and Constantine on the Arizona Trail (Dana Pica and Ryan Bunting)

Indeed, love鈥攐r, at the very least, lust鈥攊s more common on long trails than guidebooks or the Guthook app comments section might lead you to believe. So long as it doesn鈥檛 get predatory,聽 (when a hiker speeds up or slows down to hike with a crush) is a prime trail pastime. Rumors of romance and quarrels of trail couples become soap-opera fodder, gossip that allows people to while away hours of聽. I once watched a man pitch his tent at the bottom of a hill during a deluge because he was irate that his girlfriend had outpaced him. Later that night, delighting in schadenfreude, we marveled as he frantically scooped water from his flooded tent with a cook pot while she slept in the shelter. I laugh about it two years later.

Still, I鈥檓 not sure I鈥檝e ever been asked more about my love life than聽of the time I spent on聽an Appalachian Trail thru-hike with my wife, Tina. We鈥檇 already survived a southern summer and a Wyoming winter in a van that sometimes felt tighter than our tent. But how can you have sex, friends would wonder, when you鈥檙e caked in blood, bites, and sweat? And how do you slide into side-to-side sleeping bags after quibbling about, say, where to make camp?

Maybe it means finding a restaurant bathroom, a trailside motel, or a hidden watering hole (but never a plywood privy). Maybe it means letting off steam with the lukewarm beer you鈥檝e packed out of town. To bastardize the bands聽 辞谤听, love will always find a way. After all, who else is going to tote your tent while you mule the food?

Following their first bedraggled tryst, Magpie and Constantine hiked together for the next 700 miles. After, they pined for one another while he trudged across Wisconsin鈥檚 1,200-mile Ice Age Trail and she tended to a dying friend in Montreal. They rendezvoused in October 2019 at the start of the Arizona Trail鈥攁n epic 鈥渇irst date,鈥 as Magpie puts it, that lasted months and 800 miles. Along the banks of the Colorado River at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, Constantine handed her a crocheted heart he鈥檇 found on trail in Wisconsin.

鈥淚t was a physical way to define what our relationship had been growing to become,鈥 says Constantine. 鈥淪he carries it around to this day. That still feels like a big thing.鈥

When they鈥檙e not on trail these days, Magpie and Constantine live together in her home in the small British Columbia town of Pemberton. She plans to join him later this year for the聽, the 4,600-mile behemoth of the聽 network. It will be the last leg of his quest to become the first known person under 30 to have hiked all of the network鈥檚 11 paths.

Magpie, 28, and Constantine, 26, talk about their love, possible marriage, and prospective citizenship plans with delight. (She鈥檚 Canadian, and a visa only buys him so much time there.) They mention their next hikes together with the casual assurance of a couple planning a Friday night at the movies鈥攖he trail, after all, formed and fortified their relationship. With a catch in her throat, Magpie remembers the more perilous moments of their 2020 voyage on Canada鈥檚 treacherous聽, from water crossings to avalanche zones. She realized then that this was much more than trail tail.

鈥淭hat hike was absolute hell,鈥 she says. 鈥淎nd those challenges really solidified my feeling that I trusted him with my life. That accelerates relationships a lot more than if you鈥檇 just met in a bar.鈥


The first time Stephen 鈥淧izza Steve鈥 DeRouen was going to meet Therese 鈥淪pecial Brew鈥 Hobson鈥檚 family, he worried.

Five days into his 2019 trek of the Appalachian Trail, near the northern edge of Georgia, he鈥檇 met Special Brew, a recent graduate of Florida State. They instantly bonded over their matching Hyperlite packs and the fact that he was from Tallahassee, where he鈥檇 managed a Chipotle she frequented during college. They started talking and, sometimes, hiking in tandem.

By the time they were out of Tennessee, they鈥檇 confessed their feelings. Special Brew called a guy back home from a trail angel鈥檚 front yard and broke off a short relationship. Two days later, they shared a tent for the first time atop聽, a panoramic bald knob where the Appalachians unfurl in an infinite ripple.

But Brew soon developed a chronic case of plantar fasciitis聽so debilitating that it sometimes made it impossible to put weight on her right foot. Steve slowed down, too, and stuck聽by as doctors jabbed steroids into her foot or when the pain demanded she pull up for the night a bit early. Nearly 1,300 miles into their northbound adventure, Brew hopped off the trail to let her foot rest and to visit nearby family in New York. Steve trudged on solo to the Pennsylvania鈥揘ew Jersey border, where Brew鈥檚 family scooped him up, too. But what would they think of his thru-hiker hygiene?

鈥淚 was concerned and nervous鈥攆ull-grown beard, very smelly,鈥 remembers Steve. 鈥淚 had to let them see me the next day聽after I鈥檇 cleaned up.鈥

鈥淎t least they got to smell me first,鈥 Brew cuts in.

Her family soon dispatched Steve鈥檚 fears. They offered a shower and a shave, of course, but Steve was more taken by their warmth and rapport. He could tell how much they cared for one another, which prompted him to start calling his own family from the trail.

Brew鈥檚 family understood the circumstances that had galvanized the couple鈥檚 bond. Even before Brew鈥檚 foot woes, word of a man wielding a machete and threatening hikers worked its way along the trail grapevine.聽He eventually stabbed two hikers and killed one, so Brew was glad to have someone she trusted nearby. 鈥淚 could feel that Steve was looking out for me without him saying it,鈥 she says. 鈥淎nd that鈥檚 when I knew.鈥

Their shared pace also taught Steve, who had planned to finish in four months, to slow down and enjoy the adventure, since a return to life and work would come soon enough. They now live together in western North Carolina and will start working at the same聽dairy farm this spring鈥攔oles that will give them the same proximity they enjoyed when they first fell in love.

鈥淚 have my way of doing things, and I want to do it that way. But Steve is an outstandingly patient person,鈥 says Brew, scoffing as he jokes that he just needed her water filter. 鈥淲aiting for me was not always easy, but he always made it seem 别补蝉测.鈥

She learned from that. In fact, the best thing about finding love on a long hike or simply hiking with your partner is that you have no choice but to absorb what they know and聽embrace how they feel. It鈥檚 an intimacy that doesn鈥檛 ferry secrets.

Magpie, for instance, is a queer woman from British Columbia who lived in Canadian聽punk houses and whose two best friends are nonbinary. One day, Constantine鈥斺渁 very conventional straight guy raised in the South,鈥 as Magpie puts it鈥攁sked why she kept referring to one person as 鈥渢hey.鈥 She spent miles and miles walking him through聽,, and聽. He was fascinated. She fell for his openness; he fell for her knowledge.

鈥淲hat was attractive was that he was willing to listen to my experiences and knowledge about something he knew nothing about,鈥 says Magpie, just days after聽. 鈥淗e believed me and respected me. He wanted to learn.鈥

Special Brew (left) and Pizza Steve
Special Brew (left) and Pizza Steve (Stephen DeRouen and Therese Hobson)

This is just as true for couples who didn鈥檛 meet on the trail but, rather, took their relationship to the trail. Scroll through the index of, and you鈥檒l notice a litany of shared last names鈥攖he聽, the聽, the, all pairs who have completed a top feat of American endurance athletics.

After a decade together, Tina did not know of my devotion to Pop-Tarts until we crossed the Mason-Dixon Line; I don鈥檛 think I understood her ability to hear a single podcast about, say, beavers, and then wax poetic about them for a day. You also have constant chances to help your partner at their weakest or tap their strength when you need it. I鈥檝e never been more in awe of anyone than while watching Tina聽power through three possibly broken bones for a thousand聽miles.

鈥淥n those grueling days, you don鈥檛 always have to be perfect鈥攁nd, really, with someone you love, you shouldn鈥檛 be,鈥 says Jeff 鈥淚ndiana鈥 Senterman, who鈥檚 made a career out of managing trails and is now hiking more of them with his husband, Moe 鈥淪torm鈥 Lemire. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 a lesson for regular life, too.聽You have to rely on each other. If you do that, you鈥檒l enjoy each other, even when it sucks.鈥

In 2016, Senterman started a new job as director of the聽, a New York nonprofit that maintains the region鈥檚 forests and trails. Before also making the move to New York, Lemire, his college sweetheart and husband of nearly two decades, decided to hike the Appalachian Trail alone. Senterman visited as often as possible, but they struggled with the six-month separation.

Yet watching his husband prove that聽he could endure 2,200 miles inspired Senterman. When Lemire came home, they started hiking more together, rekindling an early passion of their relationship. They now run聽 together in the Catskills and completed their first thru-hike as a couple, the 138-mile聽, amid last summer鈥檚 heat. Up next, as soon as Senterman gets a sabbatical at the Catskill Center, they鈥檒l hit the Pacific Crest Trail.

罢丑别听, as they call themselves, do have聽one caveat, that鈥檚 perhaps聽more familiar to couples who hike together than couples who met while hiking: 鈥淵ou can have sex or hike, but not both,鈥 says Senterman.

But that doesn鈥檛 mean there aren鈥檛 other rewards. 鈥淲hen it鈥檚 just us together, the act of hiking itself is pretty darn intimate,鈥 says Senterman. 鈥淵ou鈥檙e experiencing that person in a way you wouldn鈥檛 by just having coffee. The intimacy that comes with spending that much time with a person is a blessing. I hope he feels the same way.鈥

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