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Theodore Roosevelt photo illustration
(Illustration: Erin Douglas)
Theodore Roosevelt photo illustration
(Illustration: Erin Douglas)

Why Did I Hike 50 Miles Through the Jersey Suburbs? Teddy Roosevelt Told Me To.


Published:  Updated: 

The 26th president once demanded that military personnel be able to walk 50 miles in 20 hours. I set off on an ill-fated mission to see if I could do it myself.


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It鈥檚 5:30 A.M. on an unseasonably warm October morning, and I鈥檓 standing in the driveway of my New Jersey home, waiting for my friend Paul. The lawn sprinklers have just kicked on, their susurration joining the predawn chorus of crickets. A bright, waxing gibbous moon is reflected in the hood of my Subaru. I鈥檓 about to take a good, long hike鈥攖he longest I鈥檝e ever done in a day鈥攆or no real reason other than an obscure edict from the 26th president of the United States.

On December 9, 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt signed, with little fanfare, , headlined 鈥淢arine Corps Officers鈥 Physical Fitness.鈥 It directed each officer of the United States Marine Corps to undergo a physical examination and a series of tests every two years.

The tests were simple. Officers would have to ride a horse 90 miles, 鈥渢his distance to be covered in three days.鈥 Officers ranked 鈥渋n the grade of captain or lieutenant鈥 were also required to walk 50 miles, with 鈥渁ctual marching time, including rests, twenty hours.鈥 Seven hundred yards of this needed to be completed 鈥渙n the double-time鈥濃攕omething like a slow jog. This test too could be spread across three days, allowing the soldiers sleep and recovery time.

Order 989鈥檚 rationale was spelled out bluntly: 鈥淚n battle, time is essential and ground may have to be covered on the run; if these officers are not equal to the average physical strength of their companies the men will be held back, resulting in unnecessary loss of life and probably defeat.鈥

Neither the Army nor the Navy, which each got their own respective executive orders with the same test, escaped Roosevelt鈥檚 attention. 鈥淚 have been unpleasantly struck,鈥 he observed in a letter to Secretary of the Navy Truman Newberry, 鈥渂y the lack of physical condition of some of the older officers, and even some of the younger officers.鈥

Roosevelt was in the waning days of his presidency, a time when outgoing leaders often try to settle up unfinished business, notes Ryan Swanson, associate professor of history at the University of Mexico and author of . 鈥淓xecutive orders sort of come and go, and aren鈥檛 really that enforceable.鈥 But the one-time Rough Rider鈥檚 final volleys stemmed, Swanson argues, from concerns that, after a long period without a war, the Army was becoming a bunch of bureaucrats, unprepared for conflict.

And then there was Roosevelt himself. There was probably no other President in U.S. history so concerned with the bodies of the body politic. 鈥淚 wish to preach, not the doctrine of ignoble ease, but the doctrine of the strenuous life,鈥 he said in a famous 1899 speech that mixed personal uplift with more than a bit of saber rattling. Swanson says that Roosevelt, like other Progressive-era reformers, worried that 鈥渦rbanization was making us weaker鈥濃攖hat we were living in unhealthy cities, that we were toiling in offices rather than plowing the fields of the Agrarian Republic (by 1900, only 40 percent of the country worked in agriculture).

There was, undoubtedly, some political stage-management at work. Roosevelt knew how to project the image of a strong leader. But he certainly walked the walk. Plagued by asthma and extreme myopia as a child, battling injury and struggling with his own weight as an adult, Roosevelt spent virtually his whole life engaged in the 鈥渟trenuous life.鈥 One of the first things Roosevelt did upon assuming the White House was to build a tennis court, on which he played hundreds of times. He was an avid boxer and dabbled in jujitsu. And one of his favorite ways to shake off the stresses of high office, notes Swanson, was to set off on impromptu hikes through Rock Creek Park, five miles north of the White House. He particularly favored what he called a 鈥減oint-to-point walk鈥 wherein he would perambulate from point A to B, directly, no matter what cliff, pond, or impenetrable vegetation was in the way. Roosevelt, recalled British ambassador Mortimer Durand, 鈥渕ade me struggle through bushes and over rocks for two hours and a half, at an impossible speed, til I was so done that I could hardly stand.鈥

And so, when Roosevelt issued his series of executive orders on the fitness of the military branches鈥攖he predecessors to today鈥檚 physical readiness tests, or PRTs鈥攊t wasn鈥檛 merely the fiat of an armchair general. This was a man, after all, who, after being shot during a speech in Milwaukee, continued orating with a bullet inside of him. (The bullet was slowed somewhat by a sheaf of papers tucked into the inner pocket of his coat).

The orders immediately kicked up complaints. As historical journal The Grog recounts, 鈥淣avy Surgeon James Gatewood complained that the endurance test would leave participants in a 鈥榙epressed physical state.鈥欌 The Navy鈥檚 surgeon general said it could put the lives of officers over 50 at risk. As if to carry the torch for his own initiative, on January 13, 1909, Roosevelt (then 51) and a small party of Naval officers set out for a horseback ride to Warrenton, Virginia, a distance of 49 miles each way. Following a 3:45 A.M. breakfast of steak and eggs, Roosevelt, on his own steed Roswell, set out into a day marked by freezing rain, eventually returning to the White House at 8:30 P.M., declaring the ride鈥攜ep, you guessed it鈥斺淏ully!鈥

Shortly after, Roosevelt was out of office. His successor, William Taft, demolished the tennis courts. A , 193, did away with the test and called for a monthly ten-mile walk, 鈥渢o be completed in neither more than four nor less than three hours.鈥 Roosevelt鈥檚 challenge may have faded into historical memory, were it not for its later rediscovery by John F. Kennedy who engaged in his own Rooseveltian crusade, albeit with a Cold War twist.

According to the podcast Ultrarunning History, Kennedy charged his Marine Commandant with putting a group of his officers to the test in 1962. While not intended for the general public, word got out, and there was a brief, nationwide 鈥50-mile frenzy鈥 in the early 1960s, with everyone from Eagle Scouts to a mother of three to the President鈥檚 brother, Robert, completing 50-mile walks. But this mania soon subsided, and all most of us know today of Kennedy鈥檚 fitness program were the push-ups and shuttle runs we might have been asked to do in our grade school gyms.

A man hikes away from the camera through summertime greenery with no visible trail through
Paul Rosica hikes through a particularly green portion of the route. (Photo: Tom Vanderbilt)
A small, still waterway surrounded by low bushes with trees in the background
New Jersey scenery isn't all turnpikes and strip malls. (Photo: Tom Vanderbilt)

When, not long ago, I learned about Roosevelt鈥檚 Executive Order, I got it into my head that I needed to attempt it. I started looking for suitable hikes, briefly fixating on in the Adirondacks, which is encircled by a 50-mile trail (and people who complete it are awarded a patch). But that involved a long round-trip drive from my home in Madison, New Jersey, and a hotel. I came across a popular race in Maryland known as the . That also involved a drive and a hotel, and I didn鈥檛 want chip timing and aid stations. I didn鈥檛 want something I was supposed to train for. I wanted to go back to the source, and Roosevelt specified a walk.

A far simpler idea soon dawned on me: Why not just leave straight from my front door? The main problem is that I live in the New Jersey suburbs. On , my address rates a 22 out of 100 (鈥渁lmost all errands require a car鈥). The state, which can sometimes seem like one long divided highway flanked by strip malls鈥斺渂agels/nails/tanning鈥濃攊s hardly a pedestrian paradise.

But I knew there were nature reserves, patches of trail here and there. I wondered if I could somehow stitch them together, like the narrator of John Cheever鈥檚 classic story who swims across his town via his neighbor鈥檚 pools, 鈥渁 quasi-subterranean stream that curved across the county.鈥 I asked my friend Paul Rosica, an expert in the local terrain who crafts an annual 鈥渄irty鈥 bike ride that sends road bikes onto single-track, if he could craft a route.

. He also asked if he could come along. And so, on a Tuesday morning, as the world was getting ready to go to work and to school, we set off from my driveway. It was warm, and the walk would be long, so I went for lightness: a tech T-shirt, REI running shorts, Saucony Kinvara 14s, and a 2.5 liter Osprey hydration pack, stuffed with peanut butter sandwiches and Fig Newmans. Rounding it out were a headlamp, Band-Aids, and a phone battery pack. We headed toward Morristown, passing the historic home of Washington鈥檚 Headquarters, eerie in the predawn gloaming. We passed a pair of adults smoking cigarettes on a jungle gym at a local park. At one point the trail was impassable, choked with weeds, so we walked on railroad tracks, attracting surprised stares from the workers at a cement plant.

We soon picked up the Patriot鈥檚 Path, a trail network that winds through various counties, and walked the outskirts of the Frelinghuysen Arboretum, a sylvan 124-acre tract that I鈥檇 never visited. There were dewy glades, foggy fields, burbling creeks. This still being New Jersey, however, the path would sometimes bump up against a highway, or emerge into the back corner of a parking lot of a suburban office complex, where the hiker would be greeted by a dumpster and no clear idea of where to resume the path. In moments like these, we鈥檇 have to do brief reroutes or simply pause and look for faint clearings in the treeline. This elemental bushcraft, amidst the dull roar of traffic or in the view of fluorescent-lit offices, felt weird.

A man in hiking clothes walks through a slot canyon with red walls
The author on a hike in the Southwest鈥攄ecidedly not New Jersey (Photo: Tom Vanderbilt)
A pair of dirty running shoes
Vanderbilt's walking shoes, fifty miles later. (Photo: Tom Vanderbilt)

At about mile eight and just under two and a half hours in, I started to discern a difference in pace between Paul and me. (He had an old knee injury from college football.) He urged me to go ahead; I started doing the math on the day ahead and, reluctantly, did. I followed the Patriot鈥檚 Path as it wound through Lewis Morris Park, whose 2200 wooded acres I sometimes mountain bike. I began to run in some stretches, per Roosevelt鈥檚 鈥渄ouble time,鈥 eventually reaching the Dismal Harmony Natural Area. (鈥淚t would be hard to imagine,鈥 in the words of the New York-New Jersey Trail Conference, 鈥渁 more inapt name for this beautiful nature preserve.鈥) The hike grew progressively more difficult: muddy, rocky, twisting upwards. Near the Clyde Potts Reservoir, in Mendham, the trail became increasingly faint, and overgrown with thick, thorny brambles. Ascending a hill under power lines, I stumbled from one thicket to another, thorns tearing at my legs and arms, until I finally found the path, past an old stone wall.

I stopped for lunch at Buttermilk Falls, sitting on a large boulder overlooking the small but energetic cascade. It鈥檚 a popular spot, but today I was alone. It was just after noon, and I was keeping a decent pace, having hit the 20-mile mark. If I ran more, I might even be done by 7 P.M. What I didn鈥檛 realize is that the trail was about to essentially disappear, instead becoming a grueling, interminable scramble along the rock strewn and muddy banks of a river (per hikemendham.org: 鈥渙ne of the most challenging hikes in Mendham Township鈥). My ankles, and my spirit, were taking a pounding. My average pace dwindled from somewhere around four miles per hour to just two.

The most remarkable thing about the route, which I鈥檇 gleaned before the hike, was that despite wending its way through the country鈥檚 most densely populated state, it passed not a single gas station or convenience store. I had noticed, on the map, the Ralston Fire Station, and I鈥檇 devised a plan to stop there to refill water鈥攅nvisioning the jovial scene as I told the firefighters of my epic quest as they pushed some hearty firehouse fare my way.

But the firehouse, clearly a volunteer affair, was shuttered. A twinge of concern crept in: For moderate hikes in moderate weather, half a liter per hour of hydration is recommended. I鈥檇 already passed that, with more than 20 miles to go, and neither the hike nor the weather was moderate. I climbed through the Schiff Nature Preserve, a 700-acre tract said to have once housed a Revolutionary War outpost, then faced the one section of the hike that was dominated by roads. Out in the open sun and heat, on a road with fast traffic, blind curves, and no shoulders, I could feel my muscles beginning to cramp, my energy sagging. I looked in vain at the huge houses, old and new, along Bernardsville Road, but there was little sign of life behind their iron fences besides landscaping crews. And what would a homeowner make of me, dirty, sweaty, looking half-crazed, walking up their driveway? Like Cheever鈥檚 swimmer, standing on Route 434, 鈥測ou might have wondered if he was the victim of foul play, or had his car broken down, or was he merely a fool?鈥

I kept trudging on, my water down to some drops in the tube. Paul, who鈥檇 called it quits at mile 23 and gotten a ride home, texted and offered to bring fluids. By the time I phoned him, around mile 34, after just under ten and a half hours鈥 walking, I knew . I went home, shivering in bed with the tremors of dehydration, downing an entire pitcher of chocolate milkshake. The next day, I banged out another ten in about two and a half hours during the day on trails closer to home, before pausing to pick my daughter up from school. I finished the last 5.77 in an hour and 45 minutes that night, accompanied by my wife. We hit the Stop and Shop on the way home, so I completed Roosevelt鈥檚 challenge, in about 15 hours, somewhere in the cereal aisle, as U2鈥檚 鈥淪weetest Thing鈥 played overhead.

Sun shines through a grove of deciduous trees covered in vines
New Jersey's finest鈥攔eally (Photo: Tom Vanderbilt)

I spent the next day sore, scratched, bitten, and burned, reflecting on the hike. It was, by the standards of Roosevelt鈥檚 Executive Order, not a failure. I鈥檇 completed the 50 with time to spare, across some pretty gnarly terrain, with elevation. But I鈥檇 wanted to do it all in one go, like Roosevelt had on his horse, and I have no way of knowing what鈥檚 harder, 50 miles on foot or 100 on a horse. (If anyone has a pair of steeds and wants to show me, please drop a line.) Maybe if I鈥檇 been better prepared, better trained. In retrospect, I could have just done 16 or so loops of the two-miles-and-change circular walking path near my house, stopping off for hydration, rest, and moral support. But part of me wanted to get lost, to encounter problems, to face the unknown鈥攊sn鈥檛 misadventure often what we鈥檙e really talking about when we talk about adventure?

Teddy would have approved, I like to think. 鈥淩oosevelt was very much about get out there, make it happen, don鈥檛 train first,鈥 Swanson says. He was the consummate dabbler, fencing, boxing, hunting, hiking, and riding. 鈥淚 was never a champion at anything,鈥 Roosevelt notes in a letter to Pierre de Coubertin, the founder of the modern Olympics. Instead, he says, 鈥淚 have always felt that I might serve as an object lesson as to the benefit of good hard bodily exercise to the ordinary man.鈥

Roosevelt was, Swanson suggests, trying to point a way forward for a society that was undergoing a massive lifestyle change (Americans鈥 body mass indexes were at the turn of the century). 鈥淏efore Roosevelt, everyday life was very different. Most Americans were working in some kind of agricultural context,鈥 Swanson notes. Roosevelt is the first president to say, 鈥Hey, you know, we need to take time out of our day to do something physically strenuous. That would be a crazy thought pre-20th century, because our whole day was strenuous.鈥

More than 100 years later, I just wanted, like Roosevelt (if a few years older, at 55, than his 51), to go out my front door and blow off steam in the woods; not to compete, but to test myself against the unknown, to carve out a whole hidden world of adventure at the drop of a hat.

As Swanson notes, Roosevelt spoke about two kinds of success. The first kind comes in momentous athletic achievements鈥攖he free-climbing of Alex Honnold, the tennis prowess of Serena Williams鈥攖hat, as Roosevelt wrote, 鈥渘o amount of training or body or mind would enable any good ordinary man to perform.鈥 But a second, 鈥渕ore common鈥 form of success, Roosevelt said, comes to the person who squeezes as much out of the 鈥渁ptitudes that he does possess.鈥 Call it talent versus grit. If you can walk, there is no special skill in walking 50 miles in 20 hours, just the determination to do it.

In a silent 1912 newsreel shot at his home in Oyster Bay, Long Island, the old Bull Moose is shown vigorously chopping down a tree, wearing shirtsleeves and a vest. 鈥淎ny of you can do that,鈥 Roosevelt says, via titles. 鈥淏ut the thing is鈥攚ill you?鈥