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boundary waters Minnesota hiking Katie Heaney
Boundary Waters, Minnesota (Photo: Greg Walters/Flickr)

Get Me Out Of Here: Hiking Bass Lake

It's a lot easier to imagine you're a colonial settler when you're not 25, Katie Heaney learns

Published: 
boundary waters Minnesota hiking Katie Heaney
(Photo: Greg Walters/Flickr)

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Generally speaking, I like hiking. It makes me feel like a colonial settler, and that is easily one of my top 10 favorite feelings to have. In the backyard of the house I grew up in, we had a row of lilac trees that my brothers and I called 鈥渢he jungle.鈥 It doesn鈥檛 take much actual wilderness for me to imagine myself as a sort of pale, skinny, petticoat-wearing Bear Grylls of the 1700s. The main problem is that my imagination at 25 years of age is not what it was at eight or 10. Maintaining a historical fa莽ade for more than a few minutes at a time becomes uncomfortable pretty quickly these days. 鈥淚鈥檓 pretending there isn鈥檛 electricity yet鈥 no longer holds up when a person鈥檚 roommate finds her sitting alone in the dark, lit only by the tiny flame of a brass candleholder.聽

Get Me Out of Here

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Paddleboarding

So it鈥檚 only about four minutes into our hike before I realize that鈥攖hough I may be wielding an excellent walking stick, and acting as though it were enhancing my experience in some way鈥擨鈥檓 really just an adult woman wearing crappy tennis shoes, walking through a bunch of ferns for no reason. In 2012. Not even a cool, old year.

It鈥檚 also there, at the trailhead, that I was lied to for the second time. The first was at our cabin in Ely, and it was benign: one of the property owners told us a hike around Bass Lake was four miles long, when it is actually a bit over five. He also insinuated that this would be a relatively easy 鈥渇our鈥 miles, by warning us off another -area hike he called 鈥渟lightly treacherous.鈥 I鈥檓 too flattered by his perception of my own sliding treacherousness scale to hold these mistaken particulars against him. Rylee, on the other hand, should know better than to tell me that each of the five miles we鈥檇 be hiking would take 鈥渁bout twenty minutes.鈥澛

IT IS AT THAT moment that I learn the grief cycle can also apply to wilderness outings. Rylee鈥檚 estimates as to how long any activity will take are, on average, 50 to 100 percent off the mark. I knew she was wrong, but I wanted her to be right. (Denial.) For one thing, our trail involved several climbs and descents spanning over 1,000 feet in elevation changes鈥攖hese were not city miles. For another thing, I was going to need snack breaks. (Bargaining.) So though our surroundings were stunning and we had nowhere else to be, I was a little anxious. And when, after about an hour, Rylee announces that we鈥檝e walked 鈥渁bout two miles,鈥 I start to despair. Who thinks she can just instinctively know how many miles she鈥檚 walked in some forest she鈥檚 never been to? Finding out one of your hiking partners is a deranged lunatic is always at least a little depressing.

Acceptance was not willfully adopted, but rather thrust upon me by the reality of my situation: I may not always enjoy participating in activities with indeterminate conclusions, but I could either keep walking, or I could turn back alone and be eaten by a grizzly bear. (Why would I trust the Big Bear lobby when it says that grizzlies haven鈥檛 been within 50 miles of Ely for 5,000-8,000 years? The is located IN Ely, for God鈥檚 sake.) Besides, the hike itself isn鈥檛 bad. The area is peacefully quiet, and the scenery dynamic. My friends and I walk through humid, dark, tree-lined paths, over open stretches of flat rock, and cross a narrow bridge over an actual bog. I have always loved a good bog.

It turns out that it鈥檚 not just me who calls up American history when surrounded by trees, either. We were walking through a particularly dense patch of oaks when my friend Colleen, upon hearing Rylee say that most of them are at least 50 years old, says, 鈥淚t鈥檚 crazy that these trees have lived through the wars.鈥 I look at her. 鈥淭he Great Tree Wars of Ely, Minnesota?鈥 I ask. I know she means wars like WWII and Vietnam, probably, but can a person say the trees 鈥渓ived through鈥 those? 鈥淵ou know what I mean,鈥 she says. 鈥淧eople were different in the ’50s鈥攄ifferent style.鈥 I鈥檓 having a perfectly pleasant time imagining Danny Zuko and Sandy Olsson (did you know her last name in that movie was Olsson? What?) meeting not on a beach but in the Boundary Waters, playing not in the ocean but in a bog, when I hear Rylee say an illogical three-word sentence:

鈥淐ool, a snake!鈥

IT鈥橲 NOT VERY BIG, I tell myself, when I peer at it through my fingers. It鈥檚 only a garter snake. Still, while my friends pause to take pictures (for reasons I cannot understand), I kind of trot ahead a few paces鈥攋ust in case it turns out to be one of those large, poisonous snakes that wears a small, harmless-looking snake costume sometimes as a joke.

We walk not 100 yards more before we see a porcupine crossing our path, and while it is very cute and walks incredibly cutely, I can鈥檛 help but see him as an omen. The wildlife we鈥檙e seeing is getting larger. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 want to see anything bigger on this hike, unless it is a deer,鈥 I announce to my friends and, more generally, the forest鈥檚 inhabitants. Fortunately, the only other animal we encounter is a very friendly golden retriever named George.

A little before the halfway point, we sit down on a lakeside cliff (not too near the edge) for a snack, and we hear a sharp, throaty cry. 鈥淲hat the HELL was that?鈥 asked Colleen, and the two native Minnesotans among us (Emily and I) identify it as the , our black-and-white, red-eyed state bird. It had never occurred to me to think of that (admittedly haunting) call as something worth fearing. To me, it just sounds like home. I can鈥檛 imagine there鈥檚 a lesson in that, though.

After we鈥檝e hiked three miles, we see a signpost marking our location on the trail, and because we finally have tangible confirmation that we are closer to the end than to the beginning, we high-five each other. Rylee tries to make a guess as to how long the rest of the hike will take, but I block it out. From here on out, I鈥檒l be assuming that everyone is lying to me about times and distances, and, if I have to, I鈥檒l just keep walking until I鈥檓 there.

聽is a writer based in Minneapolis. She has a memoir coming out in early 2014.

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