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A view of Shishipangma in China.
Shishipangma is the world's 14th highest peak. (Photo: Weng Huo/Associated Press)

The Death Toll on Shishapangma Has Risen to Four

China has suspended rescue efforts on the world鈥檚 14th highest peak, ending the search for American Gina Rzucidlo and Nepali Tenjen Lama Sherpa

Published: 
A view of Shishipangma in China.
(Photo: Weng Huo/Associated Press)

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The climbing community is mourning the victims of last week鈥檚 deadly disaster on 26,335-foot Shishapangma.

On Saturday, October 7, two avalanches swept down the mountain near the summit and buried multiple climbers. Rescuers recovered the bodies of American Anna Gutu and Mingmar Sherpa of Nepal, after the slides, but two others鈥擜merican Gina Rzucidlo and Nepali guide Tenjen Lama Sherpa鈥攚ere missing.

According to , Gutu, 32, and Rzucidlo, 45, were both attempting to be the first American woman to ascend all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters. Tenjen Lama Sherpa was guiding Rzucidlo, while Mingmar Sherpa was leading Gutu.

Rescuers attempted to find Rzucidlo and Tenjen Lama that afternoon, and sources told 翱耻迟蝉颈诲别听that Nepali guide Mingma G of expedition company Imagine Nepal fell during the attempt and suffered serious injuries. reported that he slid approximately 500 feet down the face of the mountain and struck a rock, and later required resuscitation.

On Monday, October 9, Chinese officials ended the rescue attempt and declared the two missing climbers dead, bringing the official death toll to four. The news was first by Gina Rzucidlo鈥檚 sister, Christy Rzucidlo. 鈥淭he Rzucidlo family wants to share that Chinese authorities have declared my sister Gina and her Sherpa Tenjen Lama as deceased,鈥 she wrote. 鈥淐hina has halted all activity on Mount Shishapangma due to unsafe snow conditions and has closed the mountain for the season. Requests for search by helicopter from Nepal have been declined by the Chinese government.鈥

A Chinese state-run news agency then that 鈥渁ll climbing activities have been suspended鈥 on the peak on Tuesday, October 10. According to the agency, 19 rescue personnel had participated in a search for the two missing climbers.

The disaster prompted some criticism of the climbing methods on Shishapangma. Climbers and guides that Gutu and Rzucidlo were racing each other to reach the summit at the time of the avalanches. Some sources said they believed the competition between the two had ratcheted up the danger on the mountain.

鈥淭he lesson, while not new, is that the death zone is no place for competition,鈥 an American climber named Tracee Metcalfe told the site.

News of China鈥檚 decision to suspend the search spread quickly across social media, with climbers and guides offering condolences to families and friends. British-Nepali climbing company Elite Exped to Gutu and Mingmar Sherpa on its site鈥擥utu had climbed all 14 peaks with the climbing company in 2023. 鈥淎nna and Mingmar, there will never be adequate words to describe what you meant to us all and how heavy your loss is to the entire mountain community and Elite Exped family,鈥 the company wrote. 鈥淲e are shocked and devastated鈥攚e cannot believe you are not here with us. Your memory and legacy will be one of greatness and will stay with us in our hearts forever.鈥

Multiple individuals posted heartfelt notes to Tenjen Lama, 35, who in 2023 became a celebrity within the circle of Himalayan mountaineers for setting a new speed record for climbing the 14 above 8,000 meters. Tenjen Lama and Norwegian climber Kristin Harila completed the expedition in just 92 days. On Tuesday, Harila of Tenjen Lama on her Facebook page.

鈥淥n the mountains, you were so confident, so knowledgeable,鈥 Harila wrote. 鈥淵ou moved in unity with the mountains. You were home, and you so kindly invited me in.鈥

In a lengthy post, Tenjen Lama鈥檚 employer, Seven Summit Treks, referenced his 鈥渋ndomitable spirit.鈥

鈥淗is mountaineering legacy will forever shine brightly, and his memory will be etched in our hearts,鈥 the company wrote.

Friends and family of Rzucidlo, 45, also posted updates online and eulogized her to local and national media. 鈥淕ina was just an amazing person,鈥 her mother, Susan Rzucidlo, The New York Times. 鈥淪he just lived life to the fullest. She really wanted to accomplish this.鈥

Rzucidlo lived in New York City but grew up in Auburn, Massachusetts. 聽she climbed Mount Everest in 2018, and then completed the Seven Summits鈥攃limbing the highest point on all continents鈥攖he following year. In 2021 Rzucidlo ascended 26,545-foot Annapurna, and the following season she ascended 28,251-foot K2. The Times reported that聽Rzucidlo was attempting to scale five of the 8000-meter peaks in 2023 to complete the 14, and that Shishapangma was her final ascent.

鈥淲hen she set her mind on a goal, there was no quitting, and she would succeed,鈥 Rzucidlo鈥檚 brother, Terry Rzucidlo, told Boston.com.

Lead Photo: Weng Huo/Associated Press

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