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KG Kagambi on Mount Everest.
Kagambi high on the mountain during summit day (Photo: KG Kagambi)

A Conversation with a Member of the First All-Black Team to Summit Everest

Kenyan climber KG Kagambi, 62, opens up about the historic trek up the world鈥檚 tallest mountain

Published: 
from Climbing
KG Kagambi on Mount Everest.
(Photo: KG Kagambi)

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On May 12, 2022, seven members of the 11-person Full Circle Everest expedition鈥攖he first all-Black team taking on Mount Everest鈥攕ummited the world鈥檚 highest peak. Spearheaded by outdoor educator , this expedition has been warmly supported across the world and sets a new bar for cultural representation in mountaineering.聽

62, the oldest member of the expedition and the sole Kenyan on an otherwise all-American team, was among those who made it to the top. 鈥淲e nearly doubled the number of Black people who have stood on the top of Everest,鈥 he notes. 鈥淧reviously there were only eight.鈥

He sat down with me back in Kenya, his freshly shaven skin glowing after more than a month in Nepal, to chat about how the highly anticipated trip went: how he felt, what he saw, and what鈥檚 next on the horizon for him.

KG Kagambi on Mount Everest.
Kagambi on his way to the summit. (Photo: Courtesy KG Kagambi)

Climbing: What was surprising to you on this expedition?

Kagambi: The most surprising thing, which maybe shouldn鈥檛 have been, was how crowded it was at the top. There are these things that we know about but can鈥檛 fathom until we experience them ourselves. Also, Everest is about having stamina鈥攃an you walk for 18 hours, stop, and then keep going? But having a technical background does help with success on Everest, and lends a feeling of accomplishment. Otherwise, it can feel like it鈥檚 just other people doing things for you.

Climbing: How did your time at the different Everest camps go?

Kagambi: The whole time, we felt extremely supported and ate well鈥攑otatoes, rice, sandwiches, fish, sometimes mutton鈥hree-course meals. Since this was a very publicized expedition, people from all over kept coming up to us to chat, congratulate us, take photos, and wish us well. I think the most challenging thing was the cough. I couldn鈥檛 talk, sing, and dance as much as I wanted to.

Climbing: What was summit day like?

Kagambi: We had two 鈥渞otations,鈥 the first one for practice, and we sent it on the second one since the weather was good. On that second rotation, we knew we might summit. We were divided into two groups. At Camp III, I started using oxygen, which felt really good.

In terms of my emotions, the closer I got to the top, the less I thought it was real. I thought I was dreaming. But at the top with the crowds, that changed. It brought me back to earth. You had to think about your safety, clipping, and how to get down. It put me back on alert mode鈥擨 had to think about how to get out of there. I don鈥檛 feel that I had many other challenges when compared to other mountains. For instance, Denali was tougher in terms of weather and how wearing that was. Of course, this was also affected by how much support we had鈥攖ons!鈥攁nd also temperature. We were blessed; the weather was good to us pretty much the whole time.

(Photo: Courtesy KG Kagambi)

At the summit, I had wanted to pray鈥攖o kneel down and thank God. But things were not really possible up there with so many people. Still, I prayed for my country, which made me feel good. Looking over, and being on top of everything, that made me feel good.

Coming down, it was just me and my Sherpa, Sanaam. We were joking and laughing, and I had to be careful with my knees.

Climbing: You mention your knees: How did the expedition physically feel to you?

Kagambi: My knees have been a weak point, so I was very careful and conscious of where I was stepping. In general, it wasn鈥檛 an issue, but I did fall twice on crampons and hit the same spot on my left knee twice. I felt the most pain in my knees in the past two weeks, when I stopped exercising. I was supposed to have knee replacement surgery last year, which I put off for Full Circle. But now I鈥檓 undecided about whether I鈥檒l have it next year or at all鈥攚e鈥檒l just see how things go.

I did catch a cough鈥攖he Khumbu cough, as they call it鈥攆rom the cold air.

鈥淭he most surprising thing, which maybe shouldn鈥檛 have been, was how crowded it was at the top. There are these things that we know about but can鈥檛 fathom until we experience them ourselves.鈥 (Photo: KG Kagambi)

Climbing: How did it feel being an older member of the expedition?

Kagambi: It didn鈥檛 bother me at all. I think my experience helped to balance out the age gap. For instance, I refused to get out of breath. All my decades of mountaineering helped me find the right pace. Nobody should worry about me. I鈥檓 unbothered with not getting references in conversations, I just jump in when I can. If anything, I felt that everyone respected me so much.

Climbing: How was the team cohesion?

Kagambi: We all got along. We had a lot of free time, which can be challenging if you鈥檙e not expecting it. People may not realize that you need to take time and just hang out to give your body a chance to acclimate instead of rushing forward.

Phil was a true leader. From early, he decided not to summit, that he was only going to Camp II. There was much to do and deal with: logistics, cooks, porters鈥ll that needed a lot of attention. It was a very intentional choice, and he still felt that he succeeded.

Phil was also really good at handling the film crew, dealing with the proximity of how they were filming. Of course, sometimes they get up in your face, but if Phil felt that a moment shouldn鈥檛 be recorded, he would make that clear. The film crew is made of seven people: three from Nepal, four from the U.S. And they were with us in December, so we had a good rapport going on.

Henderson (left) and Kagambi (Photo: Courtesy KG Kagambi)

Climbing: From your time on Everest, did you gain any insights into the industry there?

Kagambi: On Everest, things are easy. You can helicopter things in, have yaks carry loads. It鈥檚 definitely possible to have a luxurious camping experience on that mountain. I want to bring these ideas back to Kenya鈥攍ike having heaters in tents鈥攖o bring up what we have to offer to the next level, and charge more.

Climbing: How did the situation look up there in terms of environmental degradation?

Kagambi: To be honest, it was a lot cleaner on Everest than I had imagined and from what I鈥檇 heard. Apparently, during the height of COVID, Sherpas took the opportunity to clean up the slopes of Everest. I expected to see a lot more trash. Camp IV was indeed more littered鈥攖here were noticeably more tattered tents and empty oxygen tanks lying about.

In dealing with human waste, they carry everything down from Everest Base Camp, which is something that folks on Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya could learn from.

Something that made me happy that I wasn鈥檛 expecting was the National Geographic Society camp. They were really doing a good job. We found Sherpas cleaning everything and carrying all the waste down鈥攅ven yak poop. 鈥淟eave no trace鈥 has become an expectation at every camp; you have to sweep before they let you go.

Climbing: Were you looking forward to anything upon returning home?

Kagambi: Through all my years working in this industry, I鈥檝e learned to not hold onto any expectations; I鈥檝e been disappointed so many times in the past about what I want when I come back. It can be something like wanting to eat a piece of meat from a certain place, but getting called into the field as a replacement and having no choice but to head back into the field.

When we were coming down the mountain, the weather was changing so quickly. Phil decided that we would helicopter out. We got to the second town just below [Everest Base Camp], just in time, where we had no network for two days. I was fine with just being there, instead of going to Kathmandu to eat some momos. It ended up being a good buffer zone鈥攕topping in the middle of nowhere gave me time to think. I was mainly resting and taking care of myself. That quiet time let me appreciate the fact that our people from Full Circle went and did what they wanted to.

Climbing: I鈥檝e read interviews where there was no mention of the Sherpas鈥攚ithout whom the expedition would not be possible. What do you think this indicates about the industry?

Kagambi: From the beginning, Phil placed a strong emphasis on how much support we had鈥攏ot just in terms of sponsors. So we were quite aware that it鈥檚 a lot more than just us going to the mountain, that there鈥檚 a whole team behind us who are just as part of the expedition and helping make this happen. I could tell that not all companies set the tone this way. We definitely need to give more recognition to people behind the scenes.

I did notice the respect between Sherpas. They offered help and support to everyone they came across, not just their own clients. Instead of people competing, it felt that we were working together. They were also really good at pairing us up with Sherpas to match our different paces鈥攐ne per person. At that elevation, you can鈥檛 be subjected to other people鈥檚 speeds.

Climbing: What was the reception like back in Kenya?

Kagambi: Overwhelming. There was a lot of media attention even before we left Nepal. I had calls from Base Camp, where data gets incredibly expensive鈥$200 for ten gigabytes!鈥攁nd have a lot of events lined up for this whole first week back. But I am somewhat mentally prepared since it was busy like this before my departure as well. The President of Nepal聽had said that he wanted to meet me, although he hasn鈥檛 followed up on that. And the Minister of Tourism mentioned me by name as he was coming down from Mount Kenya himself the other week.

Kagambi (left) and Sanaam (Photo: Courtesy KG Kagambi)

Climbing: How do you think Full Circle might help elevate Kenyan climbing? It鈥檚 a question that has been percolating in the club community here.

Kagambi: The Ministry of Tourism still hasn鈥檛 recognized mountaineering or rock climbing as a sport in Kenya. In the talks I have lined up, I鈥檒l be sure to bring this up鈥攜ou never know who will hear it. You don鈥檛 have to look at it from a cost perspective; you can go for a hike for free. It鈥檚 my hope that everyone can at least try these things and see how they feel. For sure it will benefit you. I want to encourage not only mountaineering but just going out for a hike to see how that fits into your life.

Climbing: How will this change your career?

Kagambi: People have been asking me this a lot. I haven鈥檛 found an answer yet, but I still want to be myself during my time in the mountains. I鈥檓 still committed to being an outdoors educator and want to always have fun and see how kids grow up. I would be disappointed if this were taken away. I have a contract in Wyoming with NOLs, from late June to September. People ask, 鈥淲hy are you going there?鈥 They have no idea how wonderful it is.

Lead Photo: KG Kagambi

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