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Lorenzo Pernigotti scales Grandes Jorasses, a summit in the Mont Blanc mountain range
Lorenzo Pernigotti scales Grandes Jorasses, a summit in the Mont Blanc mountain range

How Climate Change Is Making the Alps More Dangerous

As the mountains thaw, rocks are coming loose from the ice, increasing the risk of injury or death for even the most experienced mountaineers

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Lorenzo Pernigotti scales Grandes Jorasses, a summit in the Mont Blanc mountain range

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In July, Lorenzo Pernigotti, a seasoned mountain climber who has听summited听over 100 peaks in the Alps, scaled听Aiguilles du Diable鈥斺渄evil鈥檚 horns鈥 in English鈥攁 set of rock towers on one of 11 major high pointsin the Mont Blanc massif, which straddles the border of Italy and France. The climb grew more difficult as he and his partner, Davide Iacchini, neared the top. At 13,000 feet, they reached the final leg, where they would climb out of a narrow corridor and onto the jagged ridge.听

Pernigotti, 30, took the lead on听the wall of the corridor, scanning for knobs and crannies where he could place his hands and feet听while bound to his partner by a short length of rope. Above him, he spied a large rock jutting from the wall, like a handle, that he could use to hoist himself up. He pulled on it with one hand, then two, testing to see if it would hold his weight. After a couple of sharp tugs, he hung from it. But as he dangled there, the rock gave way.听It slid down a few inches, and Pernigotti yelled at Iacchini听to shorten the rope connecting听them. As the rock began听crashing down听into the corridor, Pernigotti听let go, falling 30 feet before the rope went taut,听with otherrocks, snow, and ice tumbling听into the chasm all around him.

He was lucky. Pernigotti听suffered only a ruptured Achilles tendon听and, with his partner鈥檚 help, made it to the crest, where a helicopter came to his rescue. But the experience rattled him. Even the most experienced climbers are now struggling with increasingly perilous conditions in the Alps. Experts say that the problem is climate change. As temperatures rise and the peaks thaw, rocks that were previously held firmly in place by ice are coming loose.

The Mont Blanc mountain range is becoming more dangerous to climb as permafrost melts and rocky areas start to crumble.
The Mont Blanc mountain range is becoming more dangerous to climb as permafrost melts and rocky areas start to crumble. (Federico Ravassard)

During the 20th century, temperatures in the Alps rose by 3.6 degrees Fahrenheit, double the amount of warming seen across the Northern Hemisphere on the whole. If humans make only modest cuts to pollution, the Alps are expected to听warm by close to another six听degrees Fahrenheit by the end of this century, according to a of climate research. Climbers听are already seeing the effects of global warming.

Jacques Mourey, a geographer at the Universit茅 Savoie Mont-Blanc, has听 how rising temperatures have altered climbing conditions on the Mont Blanc mountain range over the past 40 years. He and his colleagues identified 25 changes affecting mountaineering. Among them,听 is melting snow and spurring avalanches; melting ice is producing wider crevasses; and rising temperatures are yielding less snowfall. For a recent听, he focused on one of the most dangerous changes: falling rocks.听

鈥淚t鈥檚 a very tricky condition,鈥 Mourey said. 鈥淵ou think the rock is safe, and then it moves.鈥

This听mountain range is partly covered by permafrost, areas where the landscape is constantly frozen. Ice within rock fissures acts like cement, keeping parts of the mountain together. But around 20 years ago, the听鈥攖he altitude at which air temperature remains at or below 32 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the day鈥攂egan to creep upward. In the 1990s, the summer freezing level was typically around 11,000 feet, but in 2003, it was closer to 13,000 feet, according to听, an organization听supporting research on the Alps. That summer, the permafrost started to thaw. Scientists say it will听 as the climate warms, causing more rocks to come loose, like the one that nearly killed Pernigotti.听

Recent years have seen massive听. From 1990 to 2017,听 and 230 were injured in the听Grand Couloir, on the popular route to the 15,774-foot peak of Mont Blanc, the highest summit听in the range and the tallest mountain in Western Europe. Rockfall accounted for 30 percent of the accidents.

Mourey said that while the number of yearly injuries on the Grand Couloir has remained roughly flat over the past two decades, fewer people are staying overnight on the mountain, a figure that has decreased from 62,000听between听1999 and听2001听to less than 51,000听between 2014 and听2016. In other words, smaller groups of climbers are听racking up the same number of injuries, which means the probability of getting hurt has increased听over time.听

鈥淥n a trafficked route, the rock was previously glued with ice, and mountaineers were using it. That rock had never moved before听but suddenly fell,鈥 Mourey听explained. He believes that at least two deadly accidents in 2018 can be blamed directly on climate change. In听, a climber grabbed a huge stone that slid unexpectedly. It was precisely what happened to Pernigotti, except the听other climber was crushed and killed by a falling rock.

Alpine guides spend most of the year in the mountains, where they see the growing danger firsthand.听, 44, started climbing in the Alps with his parents when he was five and became a guide in 2002, when he was 26. He compared the cold summers of his childhood with the unusual heat he saw last January, 鈥渨hen the sun felt closer and closer.鈥

Once covered with snow throughout the year, parts of the Mont Blanc mountain range are bare by July.
Once covered with snow throughout the year, parts of the Mont Blanc mountain range are bare by July. (Federico Ravassard)

鈥淭he day might be fantastic, and you are at 13,000 feet wearing shorts. But how many risks have you taken to get there?鈥 he said. Lately, Rossi has avoided leading听his clients on old-favorite high-mountain routes due to the dangerous, unpredictable changes.听

Rossi has begun fighting to make the mountain more secure by advocating for a forecasting system that can predict the danger of rockfall given the current weather conditions, something similar to the听 ratings available for many mountain environments.听

In Courmayeur, on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, some alpine guides are being trained to take climate change into account while planning trips for their clients. Jean Pierre Fasson, secretary general of听, a foundation dedicated to making mountaineering in the Alps safer, has added a weeklong module on climate change to his organization鈥檚 alpine guide course.

The Trois Monts route up Mont Blanc. Climbing routes like this one are changing as glaciers melt, crevasses widen, and ice towers collapse.
The Trois Monts route up Mont Blanc. Climbing routes like this one are changing as glaciers melt, crevasses widen, and ice towers collapse. (Federico Ravassard)

鈥淒isasters are part of nature, and it鈥檚 wrong trying to stop them,鈥 said Fasson, who believes that mountaineering will survive on Mont Blanc, but that climbers will need help navigating the growing risks. Between 1999 and 2017,听 of accident victims were amateurs who attempted to climb Mont Blanc without a guide. Fasson said it鈥檚 up to alpine guides to understand the rapid changes听and avoid routes that might pose greater danger.

Pernigotti said that only those who regularly climb in the Alps can appreciate how warmer weather has made the mountains more treacherous.

鈥淣ot everybody sees what鈥檚 happening. Only people who live daily in strict contact with nature can understand the impact of climate change,鈥 Pernigotti said. 鈥淚f you live in the city, you don鈥檛 see the stars. You don鈥檛 feel the wind. You can鈥檛 understand what鈥檚 happening.鈥

This story was published in partnership with听.

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