Dennis Sizemore is limping, shuffling his swollen left ankle through the dusty streets of Maun, Botswana, the听gateway city to the wildlife-rich Okavango Delta. Over his听long conservation career, it鈥檚 hardly the 67-year-old鈥檚 first injury. The former college linebacker has been slapped into a tree by a grizzly, breaking ribs and his left arm;听traded gunfire with poachers in New Mexico;听and been听medevaced听to Anchorage, Alaska, when that same hapless arm was nearly severed by the prop of a floatplane.听
Considering the brutality of injuries past, this latest wound feels a little ironic. It鈥檚 mid-September 2019, and听Sizemore has ruptured his Achilles tendon听stepping into a Maun hotel conference room for a meeting with the leaders of the Okavango safari industry. But听as he well knows, the most significant conservation work often gets done in conference rooms.
Sizemore is the director of , a university ecology program that offers students听semesters in places like Namibia, Chile, Mongolia, and British Columbia. At the same time, the organization has secured protection for听19 million acres worldwide, some of the largest blocks of biodiverse wilderness on earth, with a full-time staff of just eight. Round River听works to empower indigenous people to set and reach their own environmental stewardship听goals.听In a conservation movement historically听characterized by white people telling indigenous people what to do with their land, the organization stands out for listening instead.听
鈥淩ound River does the kind of work that is focused on the community, which isn鈥檛 as common as you might think,鈥 says Rhea Suh, former president of the Natural Resources Defense Council and an assistant听secretary of the Interior Department under President Obama. 鈥淭hat means taking local economies into account. Finding ways to do conservation without evaporating residents鈥櫶齟conomic opportunities is the hardest work, but it鈥檚 the most durable.鈥
Tourism is Botswana鈥檚 second-largest industry after diamond mining, drawing people from around the globe听to experience thriving populations of lions, leopards,听补苍诲 zebras. The country is home to some 130,000 elephants鈥攏early half the world鈥檚 remaining wild population鈥攗p from 80,000 in 1996. Trophy hunting was banned in Botswana in 2014, but the increase is due in听large part to the fact that听the animals have been for years to avoid poachers in neighboring countries.
That population boom, however,听has led to human conflicts. Between August 2018 and August 2019, elephants killed 17 people in Botswana, many of them defending their crops. In addition, conservationists link the conflicts to an uptick in poaching, as farmers听victimized by elephants have fewer qualms about helping foreign ivory poachers.听
In the villages of Sankoyo and Mababe, just outside the Okavango Delta, it鈥檚 easy to see the effects of the increased elephant population鈥攆ields lie fallow, fruit trees are broken and bare, and elephants have trampled nearly every fence. Villagers there say they haven鈥檛 bothered to farm since 2013.听
鈥淢y house used to be surrounded by crops,鈥 says Igea Newa, 66, gesturing to dusty fields. 鈥淣ow we can鈥檛 plant fruit trees or a garden. The elephants destroy them.鈥澨
Last spring听the government announced that听trophy hunting would once again be allowed in an effort to cull elephant numbers.听Newa welcomed the change, but the decision has been controversial, , a drop in safari bookings (something听that has been exacerbated by the current coronavirus pandemic), and听anger over how the 158 licenses were issued and that .听
In a conservation movement historically characterized by white people telling indigenous people what to do with their land, Round River stands out for listening instead.听
Some conservation groups, including Round River鈥檚 local partner, Botswana Predator Conservation Trust, are听, focusing on trophy hunting鈥檚 capacity to generate employment and revenue for wildlife programs.听Still, Round River hopes to keep the bloodshed from ramping up by funding solutions to human-wildlife conflicts that don鈥檛 involve killing鈥攏ot just of elephants听but also lions and other predators. Think: renting watering holes from ranchers for migrating zebras or creating a market for higher-value听鈥渨ildlife-friendly beef,鈥 which incentivizes farmers to bring their cows in at night so they aren鈥檛 killed by predators.听
Communities will choose their own听tactics, but each requires money, which is the purpose of Sizemore鈥檚听trip to Maun鈥攈is 40th to Botswana. He has arranged a meeting of the major players in the Okavango safari industry in hopes they鈥檒l agree to ante into a fund to pay for his plan. Round River would augment the envisioned $50 million fund with donations from environmental foundations. 鈥淭he problem isn鈥檛 raising the money,鈥 says Sizemore, limping into the meeting. 鈥淚t鈥檚 getting a bunch of competitors to agree to work together.鈥澨
Sizemore has raised millions for conservation in his career, but he started Round River with just a bottle of George Dickel whisky听补苍诲 a few pounds of backstrap from a pronghorn his father had听shot. Those were the gifts he bore in 1991 when he knocked on the door of grizzly bear activist Doug Peacock.
A former research assistant with the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish听补苍诲 biologist at the University of Montana, Sizemore wanted his work to have bigger effects. He figured that Peacock, with his ties to听the activist edge of the conservation movement, could help.听
Over the bourbon and backstrap, the pair launched Round River Conservation that same evening, naming it after a seminal essay on ecosystem protections. Their first donors were Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard and the late ecological philanthropist Doug Tompkins, whose landscape-scale restoration project in Chile听foreshadowed the group鈥檚 preference to preserve large blocks of habitat. In those chunks, points out Peacock, 鈥測ou always find indigenous people living,鈥 a fact Round River has relied on to make its听mark on the conservation world.听
Sizemore has had particular success in British Columbia:听Round River helped save five million acres of old growth in the Great Bear Rainforest, and in the听Taku Watershed, after a 14-year fight, eight million acres were spared. A key in both cases was Sizemore鈥檚 deployment of 鈥渢raditional ecological knowledge,鈥 a听technique that augments field surveys with locals鈥櫶齡enerations-long experience of hunting and gathering on the听land.听The process had听the side effect of galvanizing local听support among people tired of being听disenfranchised. 鈥淏eing involved听got people to open up and get very organized with protecting our lands,鈥 says John Ward, a Taku River Tlingit First Nation elder.听
Another key strategy to Round River鈥檚 outsize听results are its student groups. Each semester, fresh cadres continue long-term ecological studies in the regions where the organization works, helping underpin the conservation objectives听but also allowing it to maintain an active presence in certain听communities for years on end. That can be a significant contrast from the more sporadic, and jaded, appearance听of some larger conservation groups. 鈥淧eople听like having the students around,鈥 says Sizemore. 鈥淭heir optimism and energy make them great ambassadors.鈥
In the Maun conference room, Sizemore is at his ambassadorial best. He has his swollen leg听propped on a chair beside him and speaks softly, letting others drive the meeting as much as possible. Not always so benevolent,听Sizemore鈥檚 grizzly-like tenacity is legendary. He is, says author and close friend Terry Tempest Williams, a man of 鈥渂ig ideas, big results, big heart, big shadows.鈥 Sizemore likes to tell the story of challenging one former Round River staffer to a fistfight during a meeting with Namibian government officials听补苍诲 has had fallouts with allies during the push to designate Bears Ears as a National Monument.听
But no fistfights are necessary in Maun. In fact, Sizemore doesn鈥檛 have to say much because he鈥檚 brought along a ringer. Ross McMillan, the recently retired CEO of the environmental nonprofit听, tells the safari-industry stakeholders the story of the $120 million Coast Funds, which he helped engineer. Born听from an agreement between 26 separate First Nations tribes in the Great Bear Rainforest and the Canadian government, the fund is much more complex than what鈥檚 being proposed in the Maun meeting, but it brightly illustrates what鈥檚 possible. Logging in that rainforest, the source of years of bitter political protests, would have yielded just a handful of local jobs for First Nations people, says McMillan. Instead, supported by the fund, 1,033 jobs have been created in sustainable logging, aquaculture, and tourism since 2009.听
The dozen safari-industry representatives are sitting up straight and peppering McMillan with questions. Everyone is essentially convinced, and the remaining day and a half consists of people getting used to the idea. Afterward,听Jennifer Lalley, cofounder of the safari operator Natural Selection, says that while some companies like hers already support conservation work, collective projects are usually more successful. 鈥淎ny collaborative efforts in conservation or poverty alleviation have the potential of achieving a much greater impact than individual efforts,鈥 she says.听
Anderson Kambimba, a staff member of the Botswana Democratic Party, agrees that such a fund would help both his Okavango community and the animals听living nearby. 鈥淲ildlife in and around my community are unfortunately viewed as government property and responsibility,鈥 he says. 鈥淭his results in wildlife and habitat receiving negative attention every time government is perceived in a bad light.鈥 A community conservation fund, he says, would bring a sense of ownership and accountability. 鈥淲hen people connect economic benefit to wildlife and habitat conservation, their commitment to protecting it rises. The community will fight wildfires, discourage and guard against poaching, police harmful waste-disposal practices, and so on.鈥
Sizemore has raised millions for conservation in his career, but he started Round River with just a bottle of George Dickel whisky and a few pounds of backstrap from a pronghorn he鈥檇 hunted.
After the meeting, Sizemore meets a group of Round River students for dinner at a caf茅. Despite the meeting鈥檚 success, and in what is meant to be a pep talk for the students, he can鈥檛 help but veer into melancholy.听
You鈥檒l be doing important work,听he tells the eight undergrads. 鈥淏ut it can be awfully hard sometimes. One has to learn to embrace loss.鈥 His voice cracks, and a tear runs from behind his yellow-tinted eyeglasses. He apologizes and blames the emotion on the four Advil he took and the double gin and tonic he鈥檚 drinking, but it鈥檚 obvious that he鈥檚 a man whose emotions are always swirling close to the surface.
Later, Sizemore mentions a quote of Leopold鈥檚: 鈥淥ne of the penalties of an ecological education is that you live alone in a world of wounds.鈥澨
The students help push him on, even as he eclipses the age when most would throw in the towel.听鈥淚 try to absorb as much of their youthful exuberance as I can,鈥 he says, acknowledging a duty to those who continue to show up looking for tools to heal a world that, even in their brief lifetimes, has been accumulating even more wounds.