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The permitting process in the Nepal is, at best, baroque and convoluted.
The permitting process in the Nepal is, at best, baroque and convoluted. (Photo: Jimmy Chin)

Why Two Climbers Might Be Kicked Off Everest

The Sherpa community rallied around Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas after their illegal ski descent of Lhotse

Published: 
The permitting process in the Nepal is, at best, baroque and convoluted.
(Photo: Jimmy Chin)

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颁濒颈尘产别谤蝉听 补苍诲听 are currently under scrutiny and facing聽a 10-year ban from Everest after illegally skiing the Lhotse face. If Nepali officials do ban the climbers, it would effectively end the聽guiding career of the 49-year-old Benegas, who is one of the mountain's聽most famous guides. 聽

The pair planned to climb both Everest and Lhotse. During an acclimatization period, they skied 2,400 feet down the Lhotse Face, near their climbing route. Benegas, who is from Argentina,聽posted a video on his聽 page. 鈥淲ell after 10 years dreaming about it, it happen!鈥 he wrote. 鈥淢anaged to ski from Camp 3 Everest 7,200 meters to Camp 2 6,400m.鈥

Someone reported them to officials, who checked to see if the climbers had secured the appropriate permits. Unwittingly, they had not. 聽

Moniz, 20,聽issued a statement: 鈥淲illie and I have permits for both Everest and Lhotse, unfortunately, we were completely unaware of the ski permit requirement, and of course, have made arrangements to pay for the permit and comply with the regulations. We certainly respect Nepal鈥檚 mountaineering rules and regulations and believe we were in compliance.鈥

The permitting process in the Nepal is, at best, baroque and convoluted.

The word 鈥渟ki鈥 does not appear in the posted on the official website. The clause requiring a ski permit is buried in a document titled 鈥,鈥 which details the paragliding and skydiving rules. It is only published in Nepali.

Christopher 鈥淛D鈥 Pollak, co-founder of聽 has been introducing and promoting skiing to Nepalese youth and government officials for several years. I asked Pollack if the ski permit was well known and understood. 鈥淎bsolutely not,鈥 he said. 鈥淚 happened to stumble on the requirement accidentally. As far as I鈥檓 aware, if it exists in a written regulation, it鈥檚 hidden deep in a filing cabinet somewhere with inches of dust covering it.鈥 However, extreme skier Mike Marolt, who has skied in Nepal and on 8,000 meter peaks since 2000 said he has always paid a skiing fee because he applied as a ski expedition, not a mountaineering expedition. He added that he has never seen the regulation in writing.

Skiing down the Lhotse Face isn鈥檛 exactly an unprecedented feat, either. In 1970, Japanese speed skier Yuichiro Miura made the first descent. In 2006, Kit and Rob DesLauriers skied the face with Jimmy Chin; did so in 2011, as well.

With 24 Himalayan expeditions and 11 Everest summits, Benegas is no stranger to Nepal. He is an IFMGA mountaineering/ski guide. 鈥淚n my many years of working in Nepal, I have never been made aware a permit is required to ski on Mt. Everest,鈥 he said. Additionally, both climbers have deep ties to Nepal, raising over $100,000 for rebuilding efforts after the 2015 earthquake and personally delivering supplies to remote villages.

The Sherpa community at Everest Base Camp has rallied around Moniz, who is American,聽and Benegas. The Sherpa聽wrote to the Ministry saying, 鈥淲e will support the government if it takes action against anything illegal on the mountains, but in the case of Willie鈥檚 short ski descent, we all thought that giving punishment to Willie is not a fair decision of the government since Willie has been coming to Nepal over the past 20 years and supporting Nepal鈥檚 economy by bringing many tourists. He has also created jobs for many Nepali climbers, guides, and porters.鈥 They went on to comment on the potential long term impact: 鈥淏anning the legendary climbers from Nepal would mean a huge loss to Nepal鈥檚 economy as Willie鈥檚 regular staff will lose their jobs and Nepal will also lose the tourists who would come here for climbing and trekking.鈥 Nearly 140 Sherpa have signed the document.

Skipping out on the permit to save money doesn鈥檛 appear to have been a motive for Benegas and Moniz. They had already paid $12,800 in permit fees for Everest and Lhotse. The additional ski permit ($1,000) and trash deposit ($500) were minor expenses.

The additional permit also would have required them to pay for an additional Liaison Officer (LO), who is tasked by Nepal鈥檚 Department of Tourism with accompanying foreigners on their expedition to ensure that all rules are followed. They already had one LO for their climbing permit.聽However,聽their climbing LO was not at Base Camp. This has been a common complaint over the last few years: expeditions are required to hire an LO鈥攚hich costs聽$3,000 per team鈥攂ut the LO rarely appears at Base Camp or even meets the team.

In addition to an LO, every expedition is required to use a local Nepali agency to secure permits and for other logistics. As reported in聽, High Altitude Dreams, the agency Benegas and Moniz used, denied knowing they were skiing. This is a little tough to believe, as Moniz had posted on聽 that after he lost his skis while trekking to Base Camp, the agency assisted him in finding them.

For now, Benegas and Moniz are back at Everest Base Camp still planning on climbing the two peaks.聽 reported that the Department of Tourism has recommended that the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation cancel their climbing permits for Everest and Lhotse. However, the climbers have not been officially informed that their permit has been revoked. The Department of Tourism also recommended fining High Altitude Dreams and issuing聽a warning to the Liaison Officer.

Moniz鈥檚 father, Mike, told me that he鈥檚 sad the misunderstanding occurred. 鈥淢att is still聽hopeful to climb,鈥 he added, 鈥渂ut the skis will stay in his tent.鈥

Lead Photo: Jimmy Chin

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