国产吃瓜黑料

GET MORE WITH OUTSIDE+

Enjoy 35% off GOES, your essential outdoor guide

UPGRADE TODAY

If you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. This supports our mission to get more people active and outside. Learn more

Kelman has long practiced what researchers and doctors now preach: Always keep moving.
Kelman has long practiced what researchers and doctors now preach: Always keep moving. (Photo: Taylor Lais)

A Tenacious 87-Year-Old Tames a Towering Climb

When he set a new record up Wyoming鈥檚 Devils Tower last month, Robert Kelman confirmed what experts say about aging and athletics: use it or lose it

Published: 
Kelman has long practiced what researchers and doctors now preach: Always keep moving.
(Photo: Taylor Lais)

New perk: Easily find new routes and hidden gems, upcoming running events, and more near you. Your weekly Local Running Newsletter has everything you need to lace up! .

Figure it one way, and the news that Rob Kelman, who鈥檚 been climbing half his life, Wyoming鈥檚 iconic Devils Tower is unspectacular. Lots of experienced climbers bag the basalt-like, 900-foot monolith. But Kelman started climbing in 1971, at age 41.

Do the math. Kelman is now 87, and officially the oldest climber ever to bag Devils Tower. He鈥檚 a retired mathematician who worked in the Eisenhower Administration鈥檚 White House, in the 1950s. Kelman tore up his left knee and lost his entire meniscus before the invention of arthroscopic surgery. He lost his ACL in that same knee while bouldering in the 1970s. He had his first heart surgery 20 years ago. He had his second in 2015, and at age 85, Kelman emerged from that procedure with resolve. 鈥淚 thought it would be nice to have a goal,鈥 he says. 鈥淒evils Tower kind of popped up.鈥

Huh? What does the bright-eyed and articulate Kelman drink, swallow, inject?聽What鈥檚 his brand of mattress? His secret?

To which Kelman replies: Climbing and exercise.

鈥淎ll this attention is a bit unexpected,鈥 says Kelman, a Loveland, Colorado, local whose achievement quickly became a feature on Denver TV news. 鈥淚 didn鈥檛 realize how things spread around the Internet.鈥

When it comes to aging and athleticism, Kelman has long practiced what researchers and doctors now preach: always keep moving. No matter your age, continue running, skiing, kayaking, downward-dogging鈥verything. As best as you can, and at different speeds, angles, and intensities.

(Taylor Lais)

鈥淭he main thing with these older athletes? They鈥檝e stayed with it,鈥 says Michael Joyner, a physician and faculty member focused on human performance at the Mayo Clinic. 鈥淭hey鈥檝e kept their muscle mass up, they鈥檙e not overweight. They go at their sports just about every day.鈥

Research has proven that athletic tenacity begets athleticism. An ambitious, , published in 2011 by the American Journal of Preventive Medicine, found that performance during physical challenges like 鈥渃hair rises鈥 and 鈥渟tanding balance鈥 was superior among 53-year-old subjects who characterized themselves as moderately active or most active. The study鈥檚 3,000 subjects had been tested with the same challenges years before, at ages 36 and 43. The research also indicated that those who were active earlier in life tended to remain active in middle age, too.

鈥淚鈥檓 always preaching lifestyle activities as lifetime activities,鈥 says Kelly Rice, an associate professor of Activity and Health at Eastern Oregon University in La Grande. 鈥淲e鈥檒l decline with age, but we can slow that decline.鈥

Enter the 87-year-old, 5-foot-6 Kelman, who鈥檚 a lifelong gym rat. Often thrice weekly, you鈥檒l find him in his 425-square-foot weight room at home. Kelman performs presses, squats, power cleans, and the like. 鈥淚 do chin-ups, palms both forward and reversed,鈥 he says. 鈥淚鈥檒l do ten with no weight. I鈥檒l do some with 30 pounds on my back.鈥澛

Over the decades, Kelman has climbed in various corners of North America. He wrote a , a granite outcropping in southeast Wyoming. But as time passed, Kelman increasingly found himself to be his tribe鈥檚 consummate graybeard. 鈥淚鈥檝e lived long enough for four of my climbing partners to die of cancer,鈥 he says. 鈥淎nother one died of a heart attack. But these are just life鈥檚 exigencies.鈥

Kelman does have DNA on his side. His mother lived to 99 and he had aunts who lived into their 100s. The experts, however, say not to make too much of biological inheritance. 鈥淕enetics may tell us something about potential,鈥 says Rice. 鈥淏ut behavior and lifestyle decide if we鈥檒l ever reach our potential.鈥

Kelman set his mind on Devils Tower, which is less than a day鈥檚 drive from his home and has an easy approach, several months after his 2015 aortic valve replacement. He also liked that the landmark is widely revered鈥攁nd that he might set a record. 鈥淚 did want to break it,鈥 he says. The Mayo Clinic鈥檚 Joyner finds swagger in a lot of truly old but dedicated athletes. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e pleasantly aggressive,鈥 he says. 鈥淚n a sort of crazy, paradoxical way, they have the attitudes of 16-year-olds.鈥

The valve replacement, however, initially left Kelman feeling puny. After the surgery, he spent months lifting virtually nothing. He wouldn鈥檛 let himself return to the rock before meeting self-imposed goals: complete 12 chin-ups; perform six somersaults. 鈥淭he body needed to be sturdy enough,鈥 he says.

Kelman returned to the rock in spring 2016. His high-stepping was weak. His endurance lacked. He went to Devils Tower, which he鈥檇 last climbed in the 1990s. While Kelman is an experienced crack climber who once climbed 5.11, the 5.7, crack-filled wall turned him back. 鈥淚 remembered clearly how to do every move,鈥 he says. 鈥淏ut I鈥檇 put my hand there and my foot here, and pull鈥攁nd nothing would happen.鈥

So he went back to the gym.聽


Last month, when Kelman again stood at the base of Devils Tower, alongside hired climbing guide Taylor Lais, he was a vastly improved athlete.聽Yet Lais had concerns. In the walkup and pre-climb prep, Kelman had moved slowly. In a way, he acted his age. 鈥淚 just thought, if the shit hits the fan, what would that be? How am I going to deal?鈥 Lais later told me. He鈥檚 previously guided upwards of 40 trips up Devils Tower. Obviously, Kelman was his oldest client.

But soon Lais was relieved and impressed. The rock had a Midas effect on Kelman: he touched it and was transformed. 鈥淚 could immediately tell that Rob has been doing this for a long time,鈥 says Lais. 鈥淩eally it was like, holy cow. He has his technique down.鈥

Research has proven that athletic tenacity begets athleticism.

In the spirit of added rest and greater oversight, the pair agreed to break up the ascent into a numerous eight pitches. The temperature climbed, the rock heated to the point of feeling less sticky, and more chalk was sought for sweaty hands. The climbers kept climbing. 鈥淚 took a couple falls, but the protection was good,鈥 says Kelman. 鈥淚 was mostly annoyed with myself.鈥

Halfway up, though, Kelman felt his strength ebb. He drank from the water that Lais had hauled up the wall, and ate an energy bar meant for kids. 鈥淵ou鈥檙e not going to stop now,鈥 he told himself.聽Lais said the turning point came at the end of the sixth pitch. He truly believed that his 87-year-old client still had enough left to finish the Tower, and rightfully claim that he did it all on his own. 鈥淚 told him, it鈥檚 going to happen, Rob. You鈥檒l make it,鈥 says Lais.

About five hours after he started out, Kelman reached the top and posed next to the summit post.聽The whitish-gray beard and slightly stooped stance said old man. The orange helmet, sunglasses, and long-sleeve T-shirt with a huge Superman logo said kid.聽

鈥淎t the top, I said a little prayer of thanksgiving,鈥 says Kelman. 鈥淚鈥檓 here. That鈥檚 good.鈥

Filed to:
Lead Photo: Taylor Lais

Popular on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online