Most climbing gyms are ripe venues for bingo. Tribal tattoos, alternative piercings, man buns鈥攃heck 鈥檈m off. But at one of America鈥檚 only nonprofit climbing gyms, you鈥檒l find a much wider array of people walking through the door: a basketball team, a Boys and Girls Club, 30 family members celebrating a grandmother鈥檚 95th birthday. Some visitors are avid outdoor climbers, thrilled that Memphis finally has a full climbing gym. Others are neighborhood residents, curious about a sport they鈥檝e never seen or experienced.
鈥淚t鈥檚 the most diverse group I鈥檝e ever seen,鈥 says Jon Hawk, head of operations at . 鈥淚鈥檝e been managing climbing gyms since 2004, so I鈥檝e seen a lot, and this has been pretty freakin鈥 inspiring.鈥
Memphis Rox opened its doors in late March, emphasizing inclusivity from the start. Anyone who can鈥檛 afford the $50 monthly membership can volunteer for five hours instead, either at the gym or other nonprofits in the city. The facility also features a pay-what-you-can juice bar, a fitness center, and spaces for yoga and meditation to meet more of the community鈥檚 needs. The gym鈥檚 approach is inseparable from its surroundings: the neighborhood of Soulsville, a stretch of low houses and humble storefronts south of the city center.
From 1960 to 1975, Soulsville was home to Stax Records, the legendary label behind acts like Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes, and Booker T. Jones. Even before Stax came to town, Soulsville had been a cultural hub鈥攊t was the site of the first city park in Memphis, the first female educational institution, and the first African-American school and college. But it wasn鈥檛 immune to the pressures hitting urban neighborhoods all over the country: After streetcar lines closed in the 1940s, white workers migrated to the suburbs and local businesses started shutting down. Stax鈥檚 bankruptcy, in 1975, hastened the neighborhood鈥檚 decline. By the early 1990s, Soulsville was struggling with some of the highest rates of poverty and unemployment in Memphis.
Later that decade, community members started working to bring life back to the neighborhood. They rebuilt Stax Studios as a museum honoring the label鈥檚 legacy, with new projects including a music-focused charter school and mentoring program. In 2009, a complex of commercial buildings was constructed across the street, intended to house a grocery store and offices to jump-start the area鈥檚 economic revival. (Soulsville is considered a food desert鈥攊ts grocery stores have all closed, so residents have no local access to fresh food.) But the shiny new complex just sat there, empty. Weeds colonized the unfinished floors.
While all this was happening in Memphis, a different sort of rebirth was taking place in Los Angeles. , the director of blockbuster comedies like The Nutty Professor, Ace Ventura: Pet Detective, and Bruce Almighty, started to feel uneasy about his lavish lifestyle. He sold his 17,000-square-foot mansion in 2007 and moved into a mobile-home community in Malibu, making plans for a simpler life. Then, on a trip to Virginia that fall, Shadyac crashed his mountain bike and sustained a concussion. The symptoms incapacitated him for days, then weeks, then months.
Shadyac emerged from the experience with an even deeper desire to make the most of his remaining time and resources. He poured money into projects, like a homeless shelter in Virginia and international charities like . In 2013, Shadyac started teaching a storytelling class at the University of Memphis and grew more involved in the life of the city. He found out about the unused complex in Soulsville鈥攁nd then he bought it.
鈥淲hen I met Tom two years ago, he had two empty buildings he didn鈥檛 know what to do with,鈥 says Chris Dean, director of outreach at Memphis Rox. The now 59-year-old Shadyac talked to Soulsville residents like Dean and identified recreation as one of the neighborhood鈥檚 greatest needs. He organized a youth climbing trip to Boulder, Colorado, where, Dean says, 鈥渨e slowly started to piece together what we thought this place could become.鈥
It鈥檚 a serious climbing facility, but the Memphis Rox team values accessibility and service to the community above all else.
The end result isn鈥檛 just 鈥渁 little, tiny gym,鈥 as Hawk put it. During construction, the roof was raised to accommodate 55-foot routes. The building has about 100 top-rope lines and will average between 150 and 200 boulder problems. It鈥檚 a serious climbing facility, but the Memphis Rox team values accessibility and service to the community above all else.
The team actively looks for ways to make an impact beyond their walls, including training new route setters. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 want people to think that you just come in and climb and then leave. There are many, many jobs in the climbing industry that people don鈥檛 realize,鈥 says Josh Jimenez, the gym鈥檚 head setter. Hawk agrees: 鈥淩oute setters can go anywhere in the country, anywhere in the world, and find a pretty damn good wage these days.鈥 He points out that he and Jimenez are the only employees who aren鈥檛 native Memphians. 鈥淭he other 28 employees are all locals, learning a trade they would never have been exposed to otherwise.鈥
Hawk expects that Memphis Rox will rely on local donors and grants from foundations for its first few years, but he also hopes to get the national climbing community invested in the project鈥檚 success. , , and all funded guest setters to help with the opening.) 鈥淚 think climbing can build a stronger community than any other sport or activity. We all have different backgrounds, but we come together to work on the same problem.鈥 And if the program is successful, Dean says, 鈥渨e want a Detroit Rox, we want a Chicago Rox, all in underprivileged areas. I don鈥檛 see why not.鈥