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This crew of climbers from British Columbia isn't slowing down anytime soon.
This crew of climbers from British Columbia isn't slowing down anytime soon. (Photo: Courtesy the subjects)

Life Advice from the Oldest Climbers at the Gym

This unlikely climbing crew hasn't let age stop them from having a good time. In fact, some things are better than ever. We asked them how they do it.

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This crew of climbers from British Columbia aren't slowing down anytime soon.
(Photo: Courtesy the subjects)

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Pat Bates and his climbing buddies stand out at the crag. That鈥檚 because Bates and his crew are, well, old: their average age is 71.

Bates, 67, is short and lean, and wears a flat-brim baseball cap over his unruly salt-and-pepper hair. He and a few members of his crew鈥攆ive other senior or near-senior citizens鈥攎et in 2015 at the Spirit Rock Climbing Centre in Kimberley, British Columbia, where they now train regularly and belay for the gym鈥檚 after-school kids鈥 programs. They get outside whenever they can, climbing locally and traveling to other North American destinations. Recently, they began developing a crag in the popular St. Mary Lake area just west of Kimberley. They call it Tora Bora, after the adjacent trail, and in three years have created more than a dozen single-pitch routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.10b, with one 5.11鈥斺渞outes in our pay grade,鈥 says Bates.

I鈥檝e always assumed that rock climbers slow down with age, losing strength and stamina. At least I have, at 46. But this crew of grandparents seems to be stepping on the gas. I felt like I had something to learn about pursuing outdoor passions later in life, and they graciously offered their wisdom.

Pat Bates

Pat Bates climbing on Mt. Maye in the Purcells, his home mountain range
Pat Bates climbing on Mt. Maye in the Purcells, his home mountain range (Photo: Courtesy Pat Bates)

Pat Bates told me that the sport 鈥渋s paramount to my being, essentially.鈥 He was born in Kimberley and has been climbing both rock and ice since he was in his early 20s, but his enthusiasm for the sport has ebbed and flowed over the years. And that鈥檚 okay, he says. You can put your passion down for years and still maintain your love for it.

He鈥檚 delighted to be at a stage in life where he鈥檚 climbing again, which he attributes in no small part to his crew of like-minded friends, and the fact that his wife Jocelyn recently picked up the sport.

Bates assures me that sport climbing is great for older people because it doesn鈥檛 require massive commitments of time, energy, or equipment. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not like going into the big mountains where it鈥檚 big days and it鈥檚 super physical,鈥 he says. 鈥淪port climbing鈥檚 more casual鈥攜ou spend more time sitting around in the shade chewing the rag. You can tailor it to your abilities.鈥

He also tells me that his ego has quieted as he鈥檚 gotten older. 鈥淲e鈥檙e just out here having fun,鈥 Bates says. 鈥淪o what if we climbed two grades harder 15 years ago? This is now.鈥 A sense of humor is also important. Consider the name of the route at Tora Bora that he and Wilkinson set: No Green Bananas 聽(5.8, 11 bolts). 鈥淲hen you reach a certain age, you stop buying green bananas,鈥 Bates explains. 鈥淏ecause you might not be around long enough for them to ripen.鈥

Debbie Gale, 74

Debbie Gale patches a flapper on Ken's finger.
Debbie Gale patches a flapper on Ken’s finger. (Photo: Courtesy Debbie Gale)

Debbie Gale climbed regularly as a young woman in her 20s, before having two kids with her husband, John, and then started back up again in her early 70s. Debbie credits her crew, which she describes as very encouraging, for reigniting her passion for the sport. She was surprised to discover how hard it was to overcome the cognitive dissonance between climbing as she remembered it, and climbing in a body that鈥檚 taken more than 70 laps around the sun. 鈥淚 haven鈥檛 got the balance that I used to, I haven鈥檛 got the flexibility, and most of all I haven鈥檛 got the strength,鈥 she says.

She quickly realized that while she can improve her physical skills with time and practice, she鈥檒l never be able to move like she did as a 20-year-old, 鈥渄oing gymnastics on the rock,鈥 as she says. 聽Instead, she began to view the sport as playtime. She鈥檚 started sticking to the easier routes, 鈥渢o just have fun and muck around.鈥 The technique has brought levity and curiosity back into the experience. 鈥淚f I only get eight feet off the ground, it doesn鈥檛 matter to me.鈥 Debbie says.

John Gale, 75

John Gale trad climbing in Skaha
John Gale trad climbing in Skaha (Photo: Courtesy John Gale)

John Gale, who has been climbing since he was 14, doesn鈥檛 sugarcoat what it鈥檚 like to be an athlete in his eighth decade of life: 鈥淵ou can鈥檛 climb as long or hard in a day. You have to rest. You get more aches and pains. The aches and pains last longer.鈥 He works with a physical therapist to maximize his mobility, and says his fingers and shoulders are especially vulnerable these days.

Gale serves as his crew鈥檚 resource on injuries and prevention, a topic of interest he shares with his and Debbie鈥檚 40-year-old daughter, who climbs at the 5.13/14 level, and who he calls 鈥渁 mine of information.鈥 Their son is also an accomplished athlete, and while Gale enjoys watching his kids 鈥済lide up almost effortlessly,鈥 he prefers climbing with his peers. 鈥淲ith the kids, it always feels as though I鈥檓 slowing them down quite a bit,鈥 he says. 鈥淚鈥檇 rather be with the old guys, where we all know exactly how each of us is feeling when we say we鈥檝e had enough.鈥

Ken Wilkinson, 81

Ken Wilkinson climbing on 鈥淣o Green Bananas鈥
Ken Wilkinson climbing on 鈥淣o Green Bananas鈥 (Photo: Courtesy Ken Wilkinson)

Ken Wilkinson appreciates the sport even more now that he鈥檚 retired because, 鈥淓very day can be a climbing day.鈥 He鈥檚 a late-comer to the sport, having taken it up in his early 60s at the urging of his youngest son, Kevin who needed a belay partner. Kevin eventually became a professional athlete with the Petzl team, and the two would sport climb together all over the world. They were at Maple Canyon, near Salt Lake City, when Kevin notched his first 5.14, and Ken his first 5.12.

His style hasn鈥檛 changed his 80s, Wilkinson says. 鈥淚鈥檓 an overhang, juggy guy,鈥 he says. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 how I was brought up at [local climbing area] Lakit, which is steep but has big holds. I鈥檓 not very good on slabs; I don鈥檛 know if my ankles are not flexible, or what, but I鈥檝e never trusted my feet on slabs.鈥

For Wilkinson, the sport’s biggest impact on his life has been the relationships and connections it his fostered, first with his son and now with his friends. His life advice? 鈥淔ind something that you love to do, and you will do it for life.鈥

Bruce Hart, 64

Bruce Hart working a climb
Bruce Hart working a climb (Photo: Courtesy Bruce Hart)

Bruce Hart didn鈥檛 think he should comment for this story. 鈥淢y co-climbers are much more accomplished than I am myself,鈥 he says. 鈥淎nd I鈥檓 64, so technically, I鈥檓 not even a senior.鈥 But his cohort insisted. Hart took up the sport about four years ago, after double hip replacement surgery.

鈥淚 needed to rehabilitate my hip,鈥 Hart says, 鈥渁nd the climbing gym is really friendly for working on that kind of thing鈥攜our strength and flexibility, your balance.鈥 He鈥檚 since progressed to cragging outside with the crew, and recently set his first route at Tora Bora, a 5.8 he calls Lichen It.

Hart is less reckless and more thoughtful about preserving his body鈥檚 mobility that he used to be. 鈥淲hen you鈥檝e got two bum hips, it鈥檚 not like there鈥檚 a 50-50 chance of landing on the good one,鈥 he says. Hart hopes that by being calculated, he, like Wilkinson, will still be able to participate in his 80s.

While he鈥檚 still relatively new to the crew, Hart already holds these friendships in high regard. 鈥淵ou know those college friendships where you can just pick up the conversation right where you left off the last time, even if it was a decade ago?鈥 he says. 鈥淚 think your climbing pals become like your college pals. You go through a lot together.鈥

Lead Photo: Courtesy the subjects

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