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Not your everyday emergency room.
Not your everyday emergency room. (Photo: Grayson Schaffer)

Inside the Emergency Tent on Everest

Base Camp ER founder Luanne Freer talks triage, altitude illness, and body recovery.

Published: 
Not your everyday emergency room.
(Photo: Grayson Schaffer)

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When Everest ER opens for its 13th operational season this April, last year鈥檚 disaster鈥the avalanche that killed 16 Sherpas鈥攚ill hang heavy in the thin air at Everest Base Camp. Nonetheless, the team鈥檚 four field physicians and logistics manager will continue to do what they鈥檝e been trained to: care for climbers in the harsh environs of the world鈥檚 highest medical clinic.

Over the course of the two-month climbing season, the team will treat an estimated several hundred patients鈥攖rekkers whose final destination is Base Camp, climbers making a bid for the summit, and Nepalis supporting these expeditions. Some of the Nepalis will have awaited the clinic鈥檚 opening for the better part of a year, as it will be their first opportunity for medical treatment they can access and afford. Treating people in need is what clinic founder Dr. Luanne Freer feels most passionate about; she鈥檚 used the word 鈥渄estiny鈥 to describe her path to medical treatment in Nepal.

In 1994, five years before Freer鈥檚 first medical mission to the Himalayas, she was captivated by the challenges of high-altitude medicine. She researched Acute Mountain Sickness in Yellowstone National Park before finding her way to expedition medicine and what she calls, 鈥渢he best job in the world.鈥 This is her 15th medical mission to Nepal and her 28th trip to the country. (She鈥檚 volunteered in other capacities, including instructing mountaineering first aid courses at the .)

国产吃瓜黑料 caught up with Freer, 57, as she was en route to Nepal from her hometown of Bozeman, Montana. Just before boarding a plane in Seattle, she spoke about life inside and outside of Everest Base Camp and what she anticipates for the 2015 climbing season.

OUTSIDE: By now, you must have your pre-Everest routine down to a science. What do you do to prepare for two-and-a-half months above 17,500 feet?
FREER: I鈥檝e kind of screwed my altitude approach this year鈥擨鈥檝e just returned from an Ebola treatment hospital in Sierra Leone [near sea level]鈥攁nd I expect trekking up the mountain may be a bit more difficult. I鈥檝e also been busy with other projects like collecting equipment, including a new ultrasound machine provided by our sponsors. It鈥檚 a lot of preparation and in the midst I鈥檝e got a full-time job. It was a very harried packing process.

What are the logistics involved with getting staff and supplies to Base Camp?聽
The climate and conditions are so hard on equipment that you can鈥檛 really rely on anything working from season to season. This year we鈥檙e going up with a brand new custom-designed solar energy and communication systems. The tonnage involved is stunning. Making sure that everything makes it onto planes and helicopters before it鈥檚 carried up is a big project. I ask our designers to make no piece heavier than 30 kilograms (66 pounds) so that porters or yaks can carry it up.聽

“We鈥檝e had people brought down to the clinic where they鈥檝e been pronounced dead, but nobody has died at our clinic.”

What are some of the common illnesses and injuries you treat?
The reality is we have a very selected population at Base Camp鈥攊f you think about it, nobody chooses to climb Everest until they鈥檝e had a little bit of experience on high mountains鈥攕o we have a kind of pre-destined community that doesn鈥檛 suffer altitude-related illnesses as commonly as you would think. The majority of what we see is high-altitude cough鈥攚e call it Khumbu cough鈥攁nd it鈥檚 caused by a combination of high altitude and low relative humidity. It can be severe enough to result in broken ribs. Nobody鈥檚 immune. Nobody鈥檚 bronchial tissue lining is designed to live at that high and dry of an environment.聽

We also treat viral infections鈥攙iruses are easy to spread when you鈥檙e sharing a tent for meals鈥攁nd gastrointestinal conditions. There are hygiene issues on the mountain that make people here more susceptible to illness. We treat altitude-related illnesses like HAPE [high altitude pulmonary edema] and HACE [high altitude cerebral edema] as well.

Everest ER is a project of the (a Nepali NGO) run in conjunction with a U.S.-based nonprofit called the Himalayan Rescue Association-USA. How is it funded?
The bulk of the money in the nonprofit account comes from my motivational speaking in the past. Currently the money that helps the season operational funding break even comes from the $100 that most climbing operators opt to pay per non-Nepali team member. If the entire non-Nepali team donates, the Nepali team members enjoy unlimited doctor consults. Slightly more than half of the patients we treat are Nepali. All of our patients pay a very low fee for medications as used.

Can you describe a medical treatment that went really well, a patient with a particularly severe illness or injury that had an unexpectedly good outcome?
The one that first comes to mind, just because it was so unusual, involved a 2009 epidemic of illegally and improperly sold alcohol that was causing people to die of methanol poisoning. A Sherpa who almost died鈥攈e was found unconscious, his breathing was irregular, and he鈥檇 suffered frostbite鈥攚as saved by his buddy鈥檚 quick thinking and collaboration between different teams. He was treated by our doctors and not only survived but came back the following year to thank me for having our doctors on the mountain because he surely wouldn鈥檛 have survived if he鈥檇 been farther from medical care. It was a really heartwarming thank you. There are tons of them.聽

How about a patient you treated that was particularly tough for you personally?
It鈥檚 hard to find somebody at Base Camp that we don鈥檛 know, so it鈥檚 really hard whenever there鈥檚 an accident on the mountain. Of course, every life is important, but it seems to hit even harder when it鈥檚 a Sherpa struggling to support their family. Unfortunately, it seems like every year somebody who might not have the choice to do a less risky job loses their life. It really makes you realize the devastation that lies in wait.聽

That said it鈥檚 worth mentioning that we have never had anyone die in our clinic. We鈥檝e had people brought down to the clinic where they鈥檝e been pronounced dead, but nobody has died at our clinic. The reality is that most of the really big problems, injuries, and illnesses happen up higher, and because we don鈥檛 have a technical rescue team on Everest, they鈥檙e not able to reach Everest ER in time for us to provide advanced life-saving care.

(Courtesy of Luanne Freer)

What happens when somebody dies higher up on the mountain, where it is more difficult and risky to get people down?
A lot are still up there. I don鈥檛 know if it鈥檚 changed this year, but my understanding is that in past years, there鈥檚 a rescue deposit that each team has to pay and they鈥檙e required to bring down all of their human waste and garbage and that includes the bodies of the deceased. The [the organization responsible for both waste management on Everest and fixing the Khumbu Icefall Route] has basically put a financial incentive on bringing everything down, including the bodies. Of course sometimes that is not possible, and I know that they leave some up there, but I think there鈥檚 been a renewed effort to bring them down, especially now that we have helicopters powerful enough to extract them.

Are bodies ever carried down by hand?
Absolutely. I think any way you shake it, it鈥檚 a fairly expensive proposition to get them down and ultimately the family decides if they want to hire 鈥淴鈥 amount of team members to retrieve the body or involve a helicopter. Last year, Everest ER鈥檚 logistics manager Lakpa Norbu Sherpa was involved in helping package the bodies because he is one of the few technically trained in long-line helicopter rescue. We are otherwise rarely involved with body recovery.

The Nepalese government has said that they鈥檙e improving rescues and medical care this year. How do you think it will play out?
I read 聽that you did. I鈥檓 anxious to see what turns up. The four doctors they鈥檙e talking about are my four doctors at Everest ER. I received a very generous donation so that we can better protect the national workers and respond more quickly in the event of a rescue situation. I鈥檓 going back with donated and purchased rescue equipment.聽

I鈥檝e been lobbying for a Sherpa-run technical rescue team for years. If there鈥檚 a silver lining to last year鈥檚 tragedy, it鈥檚 that there鈥檚 growing support for a fully trained and equipped technical rescue team.聽

Lead Photo: Grayson Schaffer

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