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It鈥檚 hard to overstate just how ridiculously fast their record is.
It鈥檚 hard to overstate just how ridiculously fast their record is. (Photo: Corey Rich)

Honnold and Caldwell Break Two Hours on El Cap’s Nose

Over the past week, the duo has made repeated attempts to climb the Nose route on Yosemite's El Capitan in under two hours. They finally succeeded.

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It鈥檚 hard to overstate just how ridiculously fast their record is.
(Photo: Corey Rich)

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After three weeks of practice runs, two broken records, and one hundred-foot fall, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold became the first people to climb the Nose route on Yosemite鈥檚 El Capitan in under two hours. On Wednesday morning, they topped out聽the 3,000-foot hunk of granite in 1 hour, 58 minutes, and 7 seconds after they left the valley floor.聽

It鈥檚 hard to overstate just how ridiculously fast that is. They averaged a time of 3 minutes and 48 seconds over each of the 31 pitches, moving at a rate of more than 25 feet per minute. For context, most parties take around three days to climb the route.聽

Last October, when Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds knocked the record down to聽2:19:44鈥攕having聽four minutes off the then-fastest time held by Honnold and Hans Florine鈥攊t felt like they might remain on top of the record books for at least a little while. Turns out, they were only on top for a single winter. Last Wednesday, Honnold and Caldwell knocked the time down to聽2:10:15. 鈥淔rom the get go, we鈥檝e been talking about sub-two,鈥 Honnold told 国产吃瓜黑料 shortly after that record. 鈥淚 think we can. We鈥檙e going to keep trying a bit.鈥

On Monday, they climbed the route in聽2:01:53, despite a stuck rope near the top that cost them at least two minutes. 鈥淲e鈥檙e both adapting to the level of effort,鈥 Honnold said. 鈥淲e've been climbing the Nose four days a week for three weeks. This climb felt more casual than our聽2:10聽climb.鈥澛

If you were following their progress, sub two hours started to feel inevitable, even to the two climbers.聽鈥淭hat鈥檚 totally how it felt,鈥 Honnold聽said this morning.聽鈥淓ach time we were improving a bit.聽Today honestly wasn鈥檛 perfect, but it was good enough, so we鈥檙e psyched.鈥澛

For his part, Caldwell was worried that he wouldn't聽be able to keep up聽with Honnold. 鈥淚鈥檓 getting kind of old,鈥 he said.聽“But Alex has a way of whipping me into shape.鈥

Honnold聽feels that the true human potential on the route is closer to 1:30 or 1:15, though they won鈥檛 be trying again any time soon. 鈥淲e鈥檙e totally over it,鈥 Honnold said.聽“Not trying again.鈥

鈥淲e definitely did it way safer than we could have and it felt very reasonable the whole time,鈥 Caldwell said. 鈥淏ut it鈥檚聽been stressful for聽our聽family and friends.鈥

Will Gobright and Reynolds take another shot? 鈥淚鈥檓 inspired and relieved they got their sub-two-hour time today,鈥 Gobright said.聽鈥淚t鈥檚 the proudest speed climbing ascent to have happened in the history of U.S rock climbing. I鈥檓 proud Jim Reynolds and I held the record for a bit of time but in all honesty our time is no where close to their time. The level of talent and confidence required to climb El Cap that fast is hard for me to grasp. Part of me would be excited to see someone try to break it but deep down I hope no one tries. At least not in my lifetime.鈥

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