In 1993, Lynn Hill did something that no one else鈥攎an or woman鈥攈ad ever done in the history of climbing, despite years of attempts: she completed the first free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite. And then, because she鈥檚 such a rock star, Hill returned the following year and free-climbed the Nose again鈥攖his time 鈥渋n a day,鈥澨齧eaning a single 24-hour period.
Hill is one of the most famous climbers of all time, yet听somehow, this easily fact-checkable milestone was inadvertently erased by many major news outlets around the world last weekend.
As they reported on Emily Harrington鈥檚 in-a-day听free climb of Golden Gate (which is another route on El Capitan that isn鈥檛 the Nose),听a shocking number of news organizations听mistakenly characterized her as being the first woman ever to free climb El Capitan听in a day, not just Golden Gate. That error not only effectively erased Hill鈥檚 achievement, it also erased those of Steph Davis and Mayan Smith-Gobat, who each free-climbed Free Rider (also a route on El Cap that isn鈥檛 the Nose) in a day in 2004 and 2011, respectively.
On November 7, on , Hill shared a story from the Associated Press with the mistaken headline:听鈥1st Woman Free Climbs El Cap in a Day.鈥
鈥淚鈥檓 so happy that Biden won the election!鈥 wrote Hill. 鈥淏ut here鈥檚 a news story that needs some clarification.鈥
Predictably, climbers about the error, a mistake akin to听claiming that Harrison H. Schmitt was the first person to walk on the moon. The appears to be ground zero for the viral spread of misinformation that plagued later reports at听the听, CNN, NBC, , The Guardian, and others. (The BBC gets an award for the most nails-on-chalkboard headline, with 鈥,鈥 which to my ears sounds as bad as听鈥淩oger Federer Ping-Pongs a Hat Trick at Tennis-Matchy Thing.鈥)
Tom McCarthy, a national-affairs reporter at The Guardian who is听also a climber, responded to my听听tweet : 鈥淔or the record our original (very short-lived but that doesn鈥檛 make the mistake any less wince-y) version was a straight take from AP, a wire service pick-up, & that wire was I鈥檓 sure the superspreader seed. But they nailed the election!鈥 McCarthy helped push听The Guardian听to fix its headline. Many other outlets have also since corrected their errors.听
Watching one prestigious news outlet after another committing the same regrettable mistake, I was reminded of a from a few years ago, in which a bunch of kids pour out of a tent and every single one of them trips and face-plants in the grass.
Look, I get it. You can understand how an editor might carelessly make the jump from 鈥淓mily Harrington is the first woman to free-climb Golden Gate in a day鈥 to 鈥渇irst woman to free-climb El Capitan in a day.鈥 No one outside of climbing knows what Golden Gate is, and most people have heard of El Capitan. Putting El Capitan听in your headline is better SEO, better for clicks, and easier to understand. But this sloppy approach comes at the expense of erasing some of the most inspiring and fantastic achievements in听climbing history. (It has also听continued听to erode readers鈥櫶齠aith in journalism across the board鈥攐n a Mountain Project , one user wrote: 鈥淛ust remember they report all the other news with the same rigid fact checking and attention to detail.鈥)
It also looks bad for Harrington鈥攗nfairly, in my opinion鈥攚ho, instead of enjoying some well-deserved rest and recovery from her lifetime achievement, has spent the past few days calling journalists around the world to get them to unfuck their headlines and copy.
鈥淭his whole thing has been mortifying in a way,鈥 says Harrington. 鈥淚鈥檓 the fourth woman to free-climb El Cap in a day, and I鈥檝e never claimed anything different. I鈥檓 standing on the shoulders of Lynn Hill, Steph Davis, and Mayan Smith-Gobat, and I have nothing but respect and admiration for them.鈥
Harrington is also quick to highlight that some news organizations did get the facts right (including 国产吃瓜黑料). 鈥淎nyone who actually put in the effort to reach out and speak with me directly, which I was ready and willing to do, wrote an accurate and legitimate story,鈥 she says.
Climbing is a complicated sport, full of nuances and its own jargon. As a climbing journalist, I sometimes think that I鈥檇 rather free-solo El Cap than have to write another sentence that spells out the difference between a听free solo听and free climb.听It can be tiresome to make these nitpicky distinctions, but this media cycle has proven the consequences of not hiring journalists who are climbers to write stories about climbing. At the very least, do a basic Google fact check.