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Two climbers on Denali.
Scott Lehmann (left) and Dayna Unger communicate on Denali. (Photo: Chad Unger)

How Two Deaf Mountaineers Thrive on High Peaks

Communication can be the difference between life and death in mountaineering. Climbers Scott Lehmann and Shayna Unger know that as well as anyone.

Published: 
Two climbers on Denali.
(Photo: Chad Unger)

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During their 2018 ascent of Argentina鈥檚 22,837-foot Aconcagua, climbers Scott Lehmann, 33, and Shayna Unger, 30, carried pads of paper and pens in their pockets. As they stayed at Camp 2 at 18,000 feet and awaited good weather, the two wrote down questions on the pad about the forecast and about route conditions, and then showed their written inquiries to other climbers they met. It was a cumbersome means of communication, but it was the best way for Lehmann and Unger to obtain the information, since both climbers are deaf.

Other climbers proved to be unhelpful and indecisive in answering their inquiries鈥擫ehmann and Unger believe the climbers didn鈥檛 want to be responsible for their safety on the peak. So, the two tried a different strategy. They awoke one morning at 4 A.M., unzipped the flap of their tent, and stared out into the darkness to see if other teams were preparing to push for the summit. Every few hours, they peeked their heads out of the tent, searching the camp for headlamps. Eventually, after two nights of staring into the dark pre-dawn sky, Lehmann and Unger saw lights flickering in a neighboring tent and then climbers emerging to move up the mountain. They knew it was time to climb.

Shayna Unger on Cotopaxi.
Sayna Unger (left) celebrates near the summit of Cotopaxi. (: Shayna Unger)

鈥淚t was tough,鈥 Lehmann told 国产吃瓜黑料 using American Sign Language (ASL). 鈥淲e didn鈥檛 have the opportunity to make our own decision. We had to rely on making assumptions.鈥

Deafness presents a multitude of challenges in the high mountains, and in the decade that Lehmann and Unger have pursued mountaineering, they have developed creative ways to overcome the disability. They have been in a relationship since they were in high school, and both climbers鈥 primary mode of communication is ASL; neither can converse with spoken language. The lack of spoken language-based communication creates additional risks; they cannot shout for the other鈥檚 attention in a fall, or communicate efficiently with hearing climbers if they are having a medical emergency.

Despite these hurdles, they have built impressive climbing resumes. The pair has climbed the highest points of three continents: Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, and Denali, as well as numerous other notable peaks across the globe, such as Ecuador鈥檚 Chimborazo and Cotopaxi, and France鈥檚 Mont Blanc.

As children, neither Lehmann nor Unger, who met as high school students at the Maryland School for the Deaf and began dating after, envisioned a life on high peaks, in part because they lacked deaf role models who climbed.

鈥淚n our own deaf community, there weren鈥檛 many deaf people who climbed mountains,鈥 Lehmann said. 鈥淭here was no representation.鈥

Lehmann first tried mountaineering at age 22 in 2012, during a road trip across the U.S. with two college buddies. They tried and failed to summit Mt. Rainier in Washington, but the failed summit attempt left Lehmann hooked on climbing. He wanted Unger to join him on a climb, but she needed some coaxing. She eventually joined him on Kilimanjaro in 2015.听After the climb, she, too, was hooked.

鈥淵ou can鈥檛 beat the experience of climbing a mountain,鈥 Unger said. 鈥淓very time we go on an expedition, we immerse ourselves into nature. It鈥檚 just us and the mountain. We get beautiful views that we wouldn鈥檛 see in our regular everyday lives.鈥

Though they both know ASL, Lehmann and Unger use gestures to communicate with each other on a mountain. Identifying the small hand movements of ASL is difficult on a mountain, especially when they are far apart. In such situations, they transition to basic gestures. To indicate 鈥渟top,鈥 they will make a big 鈥淴鈥 with their arms. To tell the other to 鈥渟low down鈥 they will wave their arms up above their head and down to their waist.

Climbers ascend Denali.
Lehmann (right) leads Unger on Denali. (Photo: Chad Unger)

They also set rules on how to get each other鈥檚 attention. When they are roped up, they simply tug on their rope three times. If they鈥檙e not roped up, the person in front will look back every one or two minutes to ensure that the other is safe and to see if they have anything to communicate.

Lehmann and Unger prefer to climb without a guide. With each other, there is no communication barrier; they both know and trust their system of gestures and rules. But they had no choice when climbing Ecuador鈥檚 19,347-foot Cotopaxi and 20,549-foot Chimborazo in 2018.

Upon learning that they were deaf during their first in-person meeting, the guide they hired was dumbfounded.

鈥淗is eyes went wide,鈥 Unger said. 鈥淲e could tell his mind was churning, thinking of how he could communicate with us.鈥

Lehmann and Unger had come prepared. They had downloaded an English-Spanish translation app on their phones to make initial communication easier. Then, they taught the guide some of the gestures they used on mountains.

On Cotopaxi, the guide looked back in bewilderment the first time Unger tugged on the rope to get his attention. She had wanted the guide to adjust their pace, so she waved her arms up and down and made a thumbs down gesture. The guide stared at her in confusion and she mouthed the words 鈥榮low down鈥 until the guide finally understood. They summited, but the climb hadn鈥檛 felt smooth; they weren鈥檛 on the same page with the guide yet.

After one night鈥檚 sleep in between climbs, they started up on Chimborazo. Quickly, they noticed that the guide was becoming more comfortable communicating with them. They fell into an easy rhythm and reached the top without any issues.

Afterward, the guide admitted to Lehmann and Unger that he could barely sleep the night before they started climbing, worrying about communication and safety. The deaf climbers had proven that he needn鈥檛 have worried.

鈥淗e told us that we climbed as well as anyone else he鈥檇 guided,鈥 Unger said. 鈥淲e just communicated with him differently from them.鈥

For a 2021 expedition on Denali, they spent months meticulously reviewing each section of the climb. Along the West Buttress route, they identified an exposed stretch between the 9,600 foot camp and the Denali Base Camp called Windy Corner. As climbers rounded the Corner, their sleds, carrying their equipment, would slide down in the direction of a crevasse-pocked glacier field, its weight and momentum pulling the climbers downward. It was important for Lehmann, Unger, and Unger鈥檚 brother Chad, the third member of their all-deaf Denali climbing team, to stay focused and maintain their balance during this critical stretch.

Two climbers stand atop Aconcagua.
Unger and Lehmann stand on Aconcagua in 2020. (Photo: Shayna Unger)

They decided on two temporary tweaks of their communication system for Windy Corner. One was that they would not tug on the rope to get anyone else鈥檚 attention. A tug might be mistaken for the expected pull from a sled鈥檚 slide and the confusion could increase the danger to them. The second tweak was that the climber in front was to glance back far more frequently than normal鈥揺very fifteen to thirty seconds, instead of one to two minutes. If they were behind the others and needed to stop, they were to raise their hand to get the other climbers鈥 attention.

The special rules worked and they cleared Windy Corner on June 5th. Eight days later, on June 13th, they became the first deaf-led expedition to summit Denali.

鈥淏efore every climb, we study the route until we know it by heart,鈥 Scott said. 鈥淲e might do twice the preparation work of some other climbers, but we do it to ensure that we climb safely.鈥

Last spring, Lehmann and Unger announced that they are aiming to become the first deaf climbers to complete the Seven Summits. They named their Seven Summits project 鈥楽eeing Beyond,鈥 alluding to their broader goals of changing perceptions of deaf people and improving accessibility and inclusion in the sport of mountaineering.

鈥淲e hope to inspire other deaf people to pursue their dreams,鈥 Scott said.

To them, setting this goal is a testament to the long journey they鈥檝e followed to arrive at this point. The goal is ambitious and their odds of success may be long; only 460 people have accomplished the feat.

But there are some things that they know that they can count on. They will show up at every mountain knowing the route by heart. They will have a plan for every dangerous section of climbing. And, as always, they will have pens and pads of paper in their climbing packs.

Lead Photo: Chad Unger

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