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Gobright climbs Vertigo.
Gobright climbs Vertigo. (Photo: Cedar Wright)

Brad Gobright Is the Next Great Free Soloist

Boulder climber Brad Gobright works as a busboy, shares a house with five other dudes, and climbs stuff most of us would never dream of鈥攚ithout a rope

Published: 
Brad Gobright will be the subject of a movie from climber Cedar Wright and filmmaker Taylor Keating.
(Photo: Cedar Wright)

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It鈥檚 10:30 a.m. on a sunny fall day in Boulder, Colorado, and Brad Gobright has just started up the dirt trail toward the Naked Edge, a 5.11b that is one of America鈥檚 classic trad climbs and the most famous route in . He hikes in his climbing shoes and carries little more than a chalk bag鈥攏ot even a rope or harness鈥攚hen suddenly Jere Burrell stops him. Burrell, a wiry 34-year-old Eldo regular and rock-climbing guide, is belaying a friend from the trail.

鈥淲hat鈥檚 your name, dude?鈥 Burrell asks.听

鈥淏谤补诲.鈥澛

鈥淥h. I think I saw you solo this over here the other day,鈥 Burrell says, pointing toward a vertical, north-facing 5.12c route on the other side of the canyon known as Hairstyles and Attitudes. No one in Eldo鈥檚 storied history had climbed it without a rope until Gobright did on October 25.听

鈥淵eah,鈥 Gobright confirms shyly鈥攈e was the climber Burrell saw.

Gobright, who is 27, later explains that he planned the Hairstyles first ascent for more than a year, rope-soloing the route at least 50 times to perfect each move. Whereas Gobright does most of his climbing for fun, free soloing Hairstyles served a different purpose. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not like I just want to go up there and climb,鈥 he says. 鈥淚 want to challenge myself mentally and know that I鈥檓 secure enough and confident enough and strong enough to do it. It takes 100 percent confidence.鈥

Earlier in October, two weeks prior to his pioneering ascent, Gobright climbed to the base of Hairstyles but backed off 鈥渨hen the butterflies weren鈥檛 going away.鈥 He downclimbed back to the road. But on the morning of October 25, finally feeling confident about the route, he called Boulder-based climber and filmmaker , who is making a movie about Gobright with fellow聽filmmaker Taylor Keating. 鈥淚f you guys want this footage, you better come out because I鈥檓 going to do it today,鈥 Gobright said. He proceeded to send the route鈥攃limbing it without stopping鈥攄espite a heartstopping moment halfway up, 350 feet off the ground, when he appeared to lose his balance and teeter outward from the wall. (Falling from that height would have meant certain death.)

Wright, a longtime climbing partner of big-wall free-soloist Alex Honnold, has seen some crazy feats on rock walls. Last year he filmed Honnold鈥檚 free solo of Mexico鈥檚 sheer 2,500-foot-long El Sendero Luminoso (5.12d), which the North Face said at the time 鈥渃ould be the most difficult rope-less climb in history.鈥 But Gobright scaling Hairstyles and Attitudes without a rope was something else, Wright says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 by far the raddest and scariest thing I鈥檝e ever shot.鈥

鈥淧lenty of聽dirtbags聽can scrape their way up a 5.11,” says pro climber Mason Earle.听“But Brad鈥檚 on the cutting edge of the disciplines he climbs.鈥

Back at Eldorado, Burrell wishes Gobright luck on the Naked Edge, a sharp ar锚te that Gobright has soloed roughly 20 times, including the previous afternoon. A hundred feet up the trail, Gobright says softly, 鈥淭hat happens all the time. People don鈥檛 know my name, but they鈥檒l kind of say, 鈥楬ey, was that you on so-and-so the other day?鈥 And I鈥檒l be like, 鈥榊eah, probably.鈥欌


Gobright is 5鈥7鈥欌 with tussled black hair, the taut upper-body muscles of someone who puts his life into climbing, and an unassuming demeanor that fits his profile. He was born and raised in Orange County, California, started climbing in a gym when he was seven, and became consumed by rock climbing in high school. In 2008, at age 20, he dropped out of community college, moved to Yosemite, and began sleeping in the boulders above Camp 4. He free soloed the 800-foot Rostrum (5.11c) in 2012鈥攈is first big solo, and, coincidentally, Honnold's first big solo five years earlier鈥攁nd projected significant trad routes around the West, including four聽5.14a鈥檚.

These days he works as a busboy at the in Boulder, drives a 1994 Honda Civic, and counts grocery-store donuts among his diet staples. He lives with five roommates in a rented house in Boulder and climbs every day鈥攐ften on rock in the morning and聽in the gym in the afternoon. Sponsors send him free ropes and shoes, but that's about it.听鈥淚鈥檓聽a dirtbag,鈥澛燝obright says. Professional climber Mason Earle, a friend of Gobright鈥檚, confirms that much: 鈥淗e鈥檚 definitely gotten caught swiping food off tables in Yosemite that people have finished eating.鈥

Nevertheless, over the past five years, largely due to his free solos, Gobright has attracted a rare following鈥攎ore by word of mouth than through social media and sponsorships鈥攁mong core climbers that has some wondering whether they are watching a much bigger ascent than they realize.听鈥淧lenty of dirtbags can scrape their way up a 5.11, but Brad鈥檚 on the cutting edge of the disciplines he climbs,鈥 Earle says. 鈥淵ou compare his tick list with a lot of big-name climbers in the country and they would be impressed鈥攁nd maybe even feel light-duty.鈥

Wright is more blunt: 鈥淭he only other guy soloing like this in the U.S. is Honnold.鈥

Gobright has heard that comparison before. He has also climbed with Honnold in Yosemite and Squamish, British Columbia. They completed a single 15-hour free climb of聽the聽Heart Route on El Capitan last summer. 鈥淚鈥檓 no Alex Honnold,鈥 Gobright says, as if to snuff the comparison. 鈥淭he stuff that he does I would never consider doing.鈥 Gobright isn鈥檛 just talking about the difference in scale between their free solos (Honnold鈥檚 are typically much larger), but also about their mental makeup. 鈥淪ome of the moves on the routes Honnold has soloed will feel insecure for me no matter how strong I鈥檓 climbing,鈥 Gobright says. 鈥淗e鈥檚 got more confidence in his climbing than I do. He knows his abilities a little better than I do.鈥


Earlier this year, inspired in part by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson鈥檚 Dawn Wall climb, Gobright joined Earle on a first free ascent up the 26-pitch Heart Route (5.13b). It took them six days (Gobright completed every move except for a V10 that both he and Earle say required longer limbs than he has) and capped a five-year project. This fall, he soloed Hairstyles and Daub Griffith (5.11c), the two hardest ropeless ascents in Eldorado鈥檚聽history. The only comedown: his speed record, with Scott Bennett, on the Naked Edge fell to Jason Wells and Stefan Griebel on September 19 (Wells/Griebel鈥檚 time of 24 minutes and 29 seconds, beat Gobright/Bennett鈥檚 24 minutes and 55 seconds*).

鈥淚鈥檝e been scared on a rope plenty of times,” Gobright says,聽“but if you鈥檙e scared soloing, you鈥檙e not doing it right.听You should go down.鈥

Despite Gobright鈥檚 low profile, his recent feats鈥攑articularly the free solos鈥攈ave attracted a fair bit of attention on social media, and he doesn鈥檛 always know how to handle it. On some level he still seems conflicted about participating in a film about, of all subjects, him. After he soloed Hairstyles, he called his girlfriend, Taleen Kennedy, and said, 鈥淚 really hope people don鈥檛 just think I did this because there were cameras involved.鈥 Later, when trolls started predicting his death on Instagram, Wright recommended that Gobright stop reading their comments.

鈥淪oloing is very occasional,鈥 Gobright says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not this thing I鈥檓 doing all the time. I build up to it.鈥 He says he has never been gripped, or physically聽worn out,聽during a free solo. 鈥淚鈥檝e been scared on a rope plenty of times, but if you鈥檙e scared soloing, you鈥檙e not doing it right. You should go down.鈥

Strangely, Gobright is much less confident in his ability to turn climbing into his career, although he'd like to. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 have what it takes, honestly,鈥 he says, before rattling off a list of goals that includes climbing El Cap twice in a day, something only his hero, Caldwell, has done.

Honnold, notoriously difficult to impress, says Gobright 鈥渙bviously has a gift for soloing鈥 but stops short of anointing him. 鈥淗e鈥檚 a really good climber, just not, like, the best climber. I think the next year or two will be a deciding period for him. If Cedar makes a good film and Brad actually picks up more sponsors, maybe he would get a lot better a lot faster鈥 because he wouldn鈥檛 have to work as often and would have more financial support.

Honnold pauses, then adds: 鈥淗e definitely has a ton of potential. But I worry about him a little.鈥 Specifically,聽that he might fall.听鈥淏ut聽I鈥檓 sure people would say the same thing about me.鈥

Back in Eldorado聽on a Tuesday morning, the sun is warming up the sandstone, and Gobright is unsure whether the Naked Edge is still safe to solo. He decides to ascend the 5.8 approach and check. When he gets to the base of the ar锚te, he stops for a minute, then downclimbs almost as fast as he went up.

鈥淚t was just a little hot, just a little less than perfect,鈥 he says back at the trail. He turns to hike down to the road, mumbling to no one but himself, 鈥淏etter safe than sorry.鈥

*CORRECTION: A previous version of this article incorrectly stated that the record on the Naked Edge was set in 24聽hours and 29聽minutes.

Lead Photo: Cedar Wright

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