For Miriam Pracki, a 36-year-old from Germany, taking up climbing was an essential step in听overcoming years of mental health hurdles. In 2000, when she was a teenager, she developed an听eating disorder. By 2010, she鈥檇 been hospitalized three times, and regular patterns of depression and self-harming behavior led her to put her university coursework on hold. But when Pracki, who had always been active and outdoorsy, heard that a new climbing gym was opening nearby, she decided to give it try.
The skills she learned climbing eventually paved the way for her recovery. 鈥淲hile you鈥檙e climbing, the only important thing is the now,鈥 she says. 鈥淵ou can鈥檛 think about your body weight, or your job, or whatever.鈥 The sport made her feel strong; she recalls with excitement the tension in her core as she completed her first boulder problem on a steep horizontal roof. 鈥淭hat was such a cool feeling,鈥 she says. 鈥淏eing strong in climbing made me stronger in general. I was able to transfer that success and positivity into everyday life.鈥澨
In the four years following her first trip to the climbing gym, she recovered, returned to a healthy weight, was diagnosed with and treated for ADHD, and finished school. Now听she鈥檚 married with kids鈥攈er husband is also a climber鈥攁nd works as an interior designer. She continues to boulder and sport-climb both at the gym and outdoors.听
The sport holds therapeutic promise for many reasons. Climbing can bring about mindfulness, the in-the-moment focus that Pracki experienced, which is key to treating depression, explains Katharina Luttenberger, a psychology researcher at the University of Erlangen听in Germany. It鈥檚 also objective鈥攜ou either top out or you don鈥檛. That makes it harder for those struggling with self-esteem to discredit themselves, as you can鈥檛 simply send a route because you were lucky. The sport is loaded with metaphors, too. 鈥淎 depressed patient needs to find a hold again in life, or you have to climb out of your depression, you have to let go to move on,鈥 says Luttenberger.听
In a movement currently centered in Germany and Austria but gaining traction around the globe, practitioners like Luttenberger are evaluating bouldering psychotherapy鈥攚hich typically involves a combination of talk therapy and climbing鈥攊n controlled studies听and applying it in hospitals and private practices. With a growing body of evidence and support from experts, these psychologists hope to persuade health officials that this therapy is a valuable alternative to more traditional talk-therapy approaches.
Luttenberger and her colleagues have developed a ten-session curriculum over听nearly a decade听of research. Each of the sessions starts with a meditation. Next,听the instructor talks about the theme for the day, such as听self-esteem, trust, or social relationships. The therapist then leads a climbing exercise that illustrates that theme. For example, patients might听boulder blindfolded with the guidance of the instructor or other patients to explore fear, which usually听dissipates once they learn to rely on others鈥 guidance. The exercise is then followed by a discussion听and another meditation or relaxation exercise.
A paper in BMC Psychiatry found that a climbing-based therapeutic program was a more effective treatment for depression than other exercise regimens that did not involve therapy,听and it was as effective as established methods of talk therapy. The trial followed 240 patients: one-third participated in听bouldering therapy, another third did cognitive behavioral therapy听(a common form of talk therapy), and the final听third initiated听an exercise program at home. The group that听received the climbing treatment improved significantly more than those in the exercise program听and similarly to the group that听received cognitive behavioral therapy. 鈥淐BT is powerful and has a long history,鈥 says Luttenberger, who led the study. 鈥淎nd we could show that bouldering therapy was not inferior to CBT, which is great.鈥听
Creating a control group听听without a therapy component听was critical to the study, because exercise, in general, has been shown to have positive effects on mental health.听, conducted in 2012 with 47 participants, found that depression levels dropped significantly among participants who got to boulder, compared to a group placed on a waiting list as a control鈥攂ut it didn鈥檛 prove that bouldering therapy was any better than simply getting your heart rate up and your body moving. The 2020 study expanded the听parameters and made a better case for climbing therapy having real-world potential.听
鈥淭he way people approach a boulder problem is very similar to the way people approach life outside of bouldering,鈥 says Lisa Vigg, a psychologist who assisted with Luttenberger鈥檚 research and who led her own patients through bouldering-therapy routines in Germany. It reveals behavioral patterns that therapists and patients can then work through in the climbing gym, which serves as a safe place to practice new skills.听
Alexis Konstantin Zajetz, an Austrian psychotherapist, has been exploring climbing therapy since the early 2000s and founded the听 in Salzburg in 2005. A dedicated climber himself, he saw potential in the sport听because of the intense focus it requires and the strong emotions it can bring up, and he began to incorporate bouldering sessions into talk therapy with certain patients. In one session, when Zajetz instructed one of his patients to pick an easy route to climb, she refused to climb below a moderate grade. 鈥淪he was demanding so much from herself,鈥 says Zajetz, because she was afraid of what others would think if she didn鈥檛 climb at a certain difficulty. After that, he was able to work with her on her struggles with self-judgment, both in and out of the gym.听
Compared to other adventure sports, bouldering is relatively approachable and affordable鈥攁ll you need are听shoes and chalk, and gyms are plentiful these days, with the cost of a day pass usually under $30. Plus, it鈥檚 fun and intuitive for many people, adds Zajetz. Even on their first day, most people can complete a route with minimal instruction, bringing a sense of accomplishment, with little time spent refining technique. Advanced and beginner climbers can practice side by side, working on separate routes, making the sport particularly inclusive, says Vigg.
鈥淎nything that gets people who are suffering from depression active physically and socially is a good thing,鈥 Catherine Forneris, a psychiatrist at the University of North Carolina, says听of the research team鈥檚 findings. She adds that there are a lot of 鈥渦nanswered but intriguing questions鈥 about the approach. What the existing听studies听can鈥檛 tell us is which听aspect of the therapy is most powerful: Is it the bouldering itself? Is it exercising with a group? Is it the mindfulness lessons? Perhaps all contribute, but for now it鈥檚 unclear to what extent the different parts of the program are beneficial.听Forneris adds that future work should seek to replicate the studies with different patient groups outside Germany.
The other goal is to get more widespread recognition.听In January, the first conference on climbing therapy was held in Germany, with about 200 attendees. It featured workshops on听mental conditions听like addiction, depression, anxiety, and PTSD. Pracki also gave a talk on climbing鈥檚 role in her recovery. 鈥淭he participants were so happy to meet other people working with climbing,鈥 says Zajetz.听
In Germany, several clinics and hospitals have climbing walls, so therapists can prescribe a bouldering exercise as part of an intervention. 国产吃瓜黑料 that setting, however, it鈥檚 harder for patients to access bouldering psychotherapy. Zajetz鈥檚 patients pay him privately for bouldering sessions. Luttenberger hopes that situation will change in coming years so that bouldering treatments are eventually officially recognized and covered by health care systems. As she points out, it could听be a good alternative for people who may otherwise be wary of the stigma of conventional therapy. In the next few months, she plans to publish a manual for therapists based on the program she鈥檚 refined through her research. Zajetz also holds regular trainings at the Institute for Climbing Therapy for instructors and psychologists interested in the approach.听
After leading sessions for Luttenberger鈥檚 research, Vigg, who lives in England, says she鈥檚 now planning to switch her entire practice to bouldering therapy. 鈥淚t is so worthwhile to get up from the therapy chair and get active with patients,鈥 she says. 鈥淚鈥檝e worked with psychotherapy, both inpatient and outpatient, with groups and individuals, and I would say from experience that听this is the easiest and most joyful way to do therapy for patients and therapists alike.鈥澨