国产吃瓜黑料

GET MORE WITH OUTSIDE+

Enjoy 35% off GOES, your essential outdoor guide

UPGRADE TODAY

While Dorian has fine-tuned his workouts and nutrition over the years, he says the biggest evolution has been his perspective.
While Dorian has fine-tuned his workouts and nutrition over the years, he says the biggest evolution has been his perspective. (Photo: Trevor Moran/Red Bull Content Po)

Surfer Shane Dorian Is Planning for the Next Big Wave

Although he retired from the World Tour in 2004, Shane Dorian isn't slowing down

Published: 
While Dorian has fine-tuned his workouts and nutrition over the years, he says the biggest evolution has been his perspective.
(Photo: Trevor Moran/Red Bull Content Po)

New perk: Easily find new routes and hidden gems, upcoming running events, and more near you. Your weekly Local Running Newsletter has everything you need to lace up! .

has nothing left to prove. A key member of the so-called听, a group of young surfers听who听became some of the sport鈥檚 greatest athletes听in modern history, Dorian spent a solid decade competing in the World Tour before retiring in 2004 to focus on big-wave surfing. But he didn鈥檛 stop winning鈥攊n 2011, he earned the coveted 听for surfing a 57-footer at Jaws in Hawaii, the biggest wave ever听at the time. He repeated that feat again in 2015 and 2016, with massive waves in Puerto Escondido, Mexico, and Jaws, respectively, and notched countless other World Surf League Big Wave Awards, including best overall performance in 2015 and 2016. Now,听at 46, he鈥檚 still tackling some of the biggest waves in the world.

When I talk toDorian in early May, he鈥檚 at his home in Hawaii, packing for a weeklong trip to Australia, where he鈥檒l camp in the desert and chase swells for a GoPro film project. 鈥淢y life is basically split between being at home, living a pretty normal lifestyle as a dad, and traveling to chase surf somewhere,鈥 Dorian says. 鈥淵ou gotta be fit to survive heavy conditions or handle a weeklong surf trip.鈥

When he was younger, Dorian was always considered one of the strongest听athletes on the World Tour, squeezing in body-weight and jump-rope circuits while traveling full-time to compete. But he says听his obsession with fitness didn鈥檛 really kick in until he retired听and discovered CrossFit. He went all in, training five days a week for several years. 鈥淐rossFit is amazing. There鈥檚 always someone faster and stronger than you, which is fine, as long as you don鈥檛 make any decisions with your ego,鈥 he says.

But in 2015, injury鈥攁n overdeveloped back from years of surfing, which created a lopsided core鈥攆orced Dorian to abandon CrossFit. 鈥淏asically, I have the opposite problem of most people, who have an overly weak back from sitting in an officeall their life. There鈥檚 too much curve in my lower spine from the muscular imbalance,鈥 he says.听

Not deterred, Dorian took the high-speed, circuit approach of CrossFit and adapted it to a bodyweight workout he can do at home and on the road. He鈥檒l use free weights and resistance bands to add a strength element, but his workout consists mostly of pull-ups, push-ups, lunges, and core exercises like planks and leg lifts. 鈥淎s long as you鈥檙e breaking a sweat for 45 minutes several days a week, you鈥檒l be OK,鈥 he says. As for cardio, Dorian doesn鈥檛 run or bike. He simply surfs and chases after his two kids, who are 12 and 9. 鈥淲e get after it every day, and they both have a lot of energy.鈥

Dorian is also a proponent of cross-training听and has developed a passion for bowhunting, which听he says has helped him develop not just endurance听but patience and persistence. 鈥淚 didn鈥檛 grow up a hunter, but I love the discipline that it takes to get really good at it,鈥 Dorian says. 鈥淲ith bowhunting, you get this immediate feedback about whether you suck or not. Because if you suck, your freezer is empty.鈥 Dorian will spend days on end hunting boar and venison in the mountains of Hawaii. His passion for the sport has led to a fairly strict diet of wild game and fruits and vegetables. 鈥淚鈥檓 at that age where I鈥檓 hyperaware听when some type of food doesn鈥檛 work for me, so diet is so important,鈥 he says. 鈥淚鈥檓 semi-paleo, limiting the rice and bread听I eat,听and听stick mainly to venison when it comes to meat. It鈥檚 really nutrient dense, with a higher percentage of protein per pound than on other red meat out there.鈥

While Dorian has fine-tuned his workouts and nutrition over the years, he says the biggest evolution has been his perspective. Instead of training for what he can do now, at the age of 46, he鈥檚 training for what he wants to do in 10, 20, and 30 years. 鈥淚鈥檓 looking at my seventies听and thinking about the life I want to live.听I鈥檓 not overtraining, I鈥檓 not lifting superheavy weights. I鈥檓 taking a more long-term approach to wellness, because I want to be surfing at a good level in my sixties听and seventies.鈥

Lead Photo: Trevor Moran/Red Bull Content Po

Popular on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online