When was on vacation in El Salto, Mexico, last fall, she听decided to knock out a different 5.13 every day. Just because she could. And therein lies the difference between the 55-year-old world-class climber and the rest of us: she鈥檚 never lost the confidence in her abilities that, for many of us, seems to diminish听as we age.
鈥淭his is the problem with adults,鈥 Erbesfield-Raboutou says. 鈥淜ids think they can do anything. Nothing is impossible for them. But adults are stuck in an 鈥業 can鈥檛鈥櫶齧indset. For adults, so many things seem impossible.鈥听
And Erbesfield-Raboutou knows exactly what鈥檚 possible in the world of rock climbing. After discovering the sport at age 18, she soon turned her newfound passion into one of the most successful professional climbing careers in history. While听听four World Cup titles and five U.S. Championships in the eighties听and nineties, she became just听the third woman in the world to climb a 5.14a. In 1993, she went undefeated for 11 straight competitions. Soon after,听.
In 2005, she听created , a gym and training center in Boulder, Colorado, that has won seven national climbing-team championships and produced countless national and world champs, including听Chris Sharma and Margo Hayes. 贰谤产别蝉蹿颈别濒诲-搁补产辞耻迟辞耻鈥檚 own children are among her trainees and are setting the climbing world on fire right now. Her oldest, 20-year-old , ticks off some of the hardest climbs in the world, and her 17-year-old daughter, , is sending V13 boulders and 5.14c sport routes.
鈥淔or adults, so many things seem impossible.鈥
Although Erbesfield-Raboutou retired from professional climbing in 1996, she听enters the occasional amateur competition. But听because there isn鈥檛 a deep masters field in women鈥檚 competitive climbing,听she ends up comparing听her scores to women half her age. Still, she鈥檚听finding new endeavors to keep her motivated outside. 鈥淚鈥檇 like to go back to Mexico this year and find another 5.14 to send. I did a couple last season, and I鈥檓 psyched to try again,鈥 she听says. She trains five days a week when she鈥檚 working a project, using the hang board to foster strong听arm tendons and fingers and doing weighted pull-ups to build strength. Climbing days alternate between sport routes in the gym, where she climbs well below her grade to build endurance and fine-tune rope management,听and bouldering days, to build power and nail down certain movements.
Erbesfield-Raboutou听says听she鈥檚 learned the true value of rest as she鈥檚 gotten older, and she听periodically听takes听a day (or two) off.听But听she鈥檚 still tenacious. If she鈥檚 working a sport climb outside, she鈥檒l put in five to seven听pitches a day. If she鈥檚 bouldering, she鈥檒l work a project until there鈥檚 no daylight left. 鈥淚 feel like my body is amazing,鈥 Erbesfield-Raboutou says. 鈥淚t responds to anything I ask it to do. I think if I wanted to be a full-time climber, I could reach a level similar to what I had when I was 27.鈥
贰谤产别蝉蹿颈别濒诲-搁补产辞耻迟辞耻鈥檚听experience coaching some of the best young climbers in the country has听helped her hone this confidence. The first step, she says, is to align the mind with the body, whether that鈥檚听with meditation or visualization. Figure out where you are as a climber, define your goal, and start telling yourself that you can do it. 鈥淵es, there is a physical change in a person鈥檚 body as they age. We have to come to terms with that,鈥 Erbesfield-Raboutou says. 鈥淏ut what鈥檚 more important听is your mindset. Are you motivated? Can you stay positive?鈥
Pick a goal, convince yourself you can do it, and then put in the work.
Erbesfield-Raboutou has her students take a page out of听faux motivational speaker听鈥檚 book by repeating positive affirmations before and during a climb: 鈥淚 can do this.鈥 鈥淚鈥檓 prepared.鈥 鈥淚鈥檓 ready for this climb.鈥 The young athletes听surround themselves with uplifting thoughts by affixing sticky notes around their houses with supportive statements听and placing听stones with messages written on them in their chalk bags. 鈥淔or some odd reason, we are programmed to have negative thoughts. It鈥檚 just part of the human mind,鈥 Erbesfield-Raboutou says. 鈥淲hat we try to do is block those negative thoughts and replace them with something positive. That鈥檚 where it all starts.鈥 These tricks have helped her as well: recently, Erbesfield-Raboutou she couldn鈥檛 send when she was younger, and she attributes听this success to a听stronger mental game.
Pick a goal, convince yourself you can do it, and then put in the work. Any climber can adopt an intense training schedule, but the most important aspect of your training should be what exactly you want to accomplish, according to Erbesfield-Raboutou. 鈥淚鈥檓 sure we鈥檙e limited as we get into our seventies听or eighties, but you鈥檙e gonna have to shoot me before I give climbing up,鈥 she says. 鈥淐limbing is a lifelong sport. It鈥檚 something you can get stronger at as you age. I can get any adult to climb 12a in a certain amount of time. The door is pretty open.鈥