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When I eat a warm, buttery cinnamon bun from Heidi Schaffer鈥檚 recipe file next to an open window, I can almost hear the swish of skins.
When I eat a warm, buttery cinnamon bun from Heidi Schaffer鈥檚 recipe file next to an open window, I can almost hear the swish of skins. (Photo: Mark Olsen/Unsplash)

Ease into Winter with Backcountry-Approved Comfort Food

Delicious meals can make extreme circumstances feel a little friendlier. These recipes from a backcountry chef are a good place to start.

Published: 
When I eat a warm, buttery cinnamon bun from Heidi Schaffer鈥檚 recipe file next to an open window, I can almost hear the swish of skins.
(Photo: Mark Olsen/Unsplash)

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The Blanket Glacier Chalet听is only accessible听by helicopter. Nestled deep in British Columbia鈥檚 Monashee Mountains, the A-frame听has听a satellite phone for emergencies听but no cell service or Wi-Fi. Guests bring their own sleeping bags. The bathrooms are outhouses, and the makeshift shower consists of a plasticbucket attached to a pulley system. If you鈥檙e staying over, you鈥檙e not seeking amenities; you鈥檙e chasing the 60 feet of snow that falls in the area each winter. When I spent a week there with friends in early March, I wasn鈥檛 expecting much more than a wood-fired stove, but I was pleasantly surprised by all of the听gourmet food.

The Schaffer family has owned and operated the 鈥溾澨齭ince 1986. Al and Marion Schaffer recently passed the torch of daily operations on to their kids: 34-year-old Marty听handles the skiing through his听, and his 28-year-old sister, Heidi, handles the food. In听my mind, her cooking elevates the chalet to five-star status.听Topsheets, it turns out, are irrelevant when you鈥檙e eating maple-miso salmon in the middle of the wilderness. Heidi fed 16 hungry skiers five meals a day during our visit, using one oven and听supplies brought in once a week via听helicopter.

Her cooking created our daily rhythm at the chalet. We鈥檇 wake up early and trek听to the outhouses鈥攄ubbed Contemplation Point鈥攚hile she laid out a first breakfast of coffee, yogurt, granola, fruit, and warm muffins. As we listened to the day鈥檚 avalanche report, she plated our second breakfast of buttermilk pancakes or fluffy scrambled eggs. Then, while we suited up and formed a water brigade outside, passing buckets up from the mountain stream, she transformed the dining table into a smorgasbord of steak, homemade bread, deli meats, cheeses, and veggies for our picnic lunch. We鈥檇 check our beacons and head into the mountains. By听4 P.M., my mind only had room for apr猫s. Would we be welcomed home with freshly fried potato chips and artichoke dip? Or maybe warm cranberry-walnut bread and hand-whipped butter?

Heidi鈥檚听mastery of such nourishing听comfort food in this isolated outpost听is the type of inspiration we could all use right now. My friends and I听missed an important week of COVID-19 news while we were in the backcountry: When we left, hand washing was the preventative measure. When we got back听to our overflowing inboxes, markets had crashed, borders were closing, and quarantine was on the horizon. All I wanted to do was return to the chalet and find Heidi, apron on, blond听hair tied into her signature fun bun, telling us to dig in.

The weather is cooling听off again, and we鈥檙e all staring down a fall (and winter,听and likely spring) of more social听distancing,听limited travel, and difficult news. While we wait for the winds to change, I keep turning to Heidi鈥檚 gourmet yet simple recipes for comfort. When I eat a warm, buttery听piece of her walnut bread next to an open window, I can almost hear the swish of skins. I鈥檒l be trying her ricotta and chive gnocchi next.听Below,听Heidi,听the queen of isolated cooking,听shares five of听her greatest hits.

Roasted Garlic and Artichoke Dip听

This savory dip is one of Heidi鈥檚 go-to, quick appetizers, usually whipped up after sneaking in a few runs in the afternoon.

Ingredients:听

  • 1 whole head of garlic
  • 1 cup mayonnaise
  • 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 14-ounce can artichokes, drained and chopped
  • Cooking oil
  • 1 green onion, thinly sliced (both white and green parts)
  • 3 tablespoons fresh tomatoes, chopped

Directions:

Heat the oven to 350 degrees听Fahrenheit. Cut off听the top of the head of the garlic so the cloves are exposed, and place it on a parchment paper鈥搇ined sheet pan. Drizzle with olive oil and a pinch of salt, and roast听for 30 minutes听or until golden and soft. While the garlic is roasting, combine the mayonnaise, Parmesan, and artichokes in a mixing bowl. Once the garlic is done, remove it from the oven (but keep the oven on). Let the garlic cool, then mince听the cloves and add them to the mayonnaise mixture. Spoon the combined ingredients into a shallow casserole dish sprayed with cooking oil. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes听or until the top is golden.听Garnish with the fresh green onion听and chopped tomatoes. Serve with crackers, raw vegetables, or fresh bread.


No-Knead Honey, Walnut, and Cranberry Bread

Homemade bread might be intimidating, but Heidi鈥檚 recipe is approachable. And if she can bake听it in听the backcountry and at high altitude, you can definitely do it in your kitchen. 鈥淢aking the dough the night before is a huge time-saver,鈥 she says. 鈥淭his goes really well with a hefty slice of Brie cheese and some butternut-squash soup.鈥 Her recipe calls for using a听Dutch oven, but you can also bake the bread on a parchment paper鈥搇ined pan. The crust just won鈥檛 be as crunchy.

Ingredients:

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour
  • 陆 teaspoon instant yeast
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 陆 cup walnuts, chopped
  • 1 cup dried cranberries
  • 1陆 cups room-temperature water
  • 录 cup honey

Directions:

Add the flour to a large mixing bowl. Then add the yeast to one side of the bowl and the salt to the other. Using a wooden spoon, stir the yeast into the flour on its side and the salt into the flour on its side, which helps ensure an even distribution听of ingredients.听Then stir the whole thing together.听Add the chopped walnuts and cranberries to the flour and mix again. Pour the water and honey into a separate bowl, stirring with a fork to combine. (Water that is too warm or too cold can kill the yeast and prevent the bread from rising, so make sure you get the temperature right.) Then pour the honey water into your flour mixture and stir with the wooden spoon until all ingredients are combined.听This is not typical bread dough鈥攊t will be a bit sticky, and the recipe does not require any kneading鈥攕o听don鈥檛 be too concerned about the appearance.听Just make sure听the ingredients are combined well and that there鈥檚 enough room for the dough to double in size, then cover听the bowl loosely with plastic wrap and set听in a warm, draft-free spot. Let it rise for 12 to 18 hours.

Place a piece of parchment paper on the counter, and dust it with flour. Rub flour on your hands, and scrape the dough away from the sides of the bowl, gathering it in your hands as best you can. Transfer it to your parchment paper, and form it into a circular loaf.听Once it鈥檚 shaped, the dough needs to undergo a second rise. Sprinkle flour over the top of the loaf, and loosely cover it with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming. Let rise for about 45 minutes. (Note that听after the second rise, you should handle the dough as little as possible;听touching it too much听may cause it to deflate.)

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place听your Dutch oven inside, and let it heat up for about 20 minutes. Once the dough has risen, remove the plastic wrap and score the loaf with a sharp knife (a shallow slit right down the middle will do the trick). Trim the parchment paper into a circle closely around the dough. If it doesn鈥檛 look like the dough has risen that much, don鈥檛 worry. The loaf will puff up when it hits the heat of the oven.

Remove the preheated pot from the oven and carefully听transfer your听dough into it, handling听it as little as possible听and using听the parchment paper to carefully听lift and lower it in. Place the lid on the pot,听and return it to the oven for 35 minutes. Don鈥檛 open the oven during this time, and don鈥檛 take the lid off the pot听(steam building听up in the pot will help give it a crispy crust). After 35 minutes, remove the lid from the pot and continue baking for another 15 minutes. (If you鈥檙e using a baking sheet, simply bake the bread for 45 to 55 minutes.) Remove the loaf from the oven, and place it听on a wire rack to cool. Brush a little extra honey on the top of the bread听if you want.

Resist the urge to cut into the bread until it has cooled. The bread continues to bake on the inside even after it鈥檚 been removed from the oven, and cutting it too early may result something听gummy or rubbery.


Maple-Miso Salmon听

鈥淭his is one of my go-to salmon marinades, and I get asked for this recipe every time I make it,鈥 Heidi says. 鈥淭he richness of the miso and soy, with the zip from the ginger, makes the fish听heavenly.鈥

Ingredients:

  • 4 single-serving salmon fillets (around four ounces each)
  • 录 cup maple syrup
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1 heaping tablespoon white-miso paste
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 clove garlic, grated
  • 1 tablespoon ginger, grated

Directions:

Whisk all of the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Place the salmon in听a dish, cover with the marinade, and let sit for 30 minutes.听Preheat the oven to 400 degrees, and set听the pieces of salmon on a foil-lined baking tray. Brush the top of the salmon with a little of the marinade using听a pastry brush. Place the remainder of the marinade to the side. Bake for ten听minutes for medium-rare salmon, and 12 to听15听minutes for well-done. (Note that cook time for salmon can vary, depending on the cut and type of fish, so pay attention. Press gently on the thickest part of the fish with a fork; if it flakes easily, it鈥檚 done.)听While the salmon is baking, reduce the leftover marinade in a saucepan over medium heat until it has听thickened.听Glaze the salmon with the reduced marinade before serving.


Ricotta and Chive Gnocchi听

Making pasta doesn鈥檛 have to be听complicated, and this听gnocchi is an easy place to start.听鈥淚 always thought homemade gnocchi was intimidating and time-consuming, but this recipe is neither,鈥 Heidi says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 a game changer.鈥

Ingredients:

  • 1 pound ricotta
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tablespoon听olive oil
  • 录 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 陆 cup chives, finely听chopped
  • 1 teaspoon lemon zest
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 陆 teaspoon pepper
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • Vegetable oil for frying

Directions:

Place the ricotta in a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl, leaving听enough space for liquid to drip from the cheese. Put a small plate over the cheese in the strainer and then听a can or another object atop the plate to weigh it down. Let your setup press the ricotta in the strainer overnight in the fridge.

Put a large pot of water on the stove to boil. In a large bowl, mix the pressed ricotta, egg, olive oil, Parmesan, chives, lemon zest, salt, and pepper thoroughly. Add the flour and gently stir it in, being careful not to overmix. Let the dough rest for ten听minutes. Lightly sprinkle flour on your work surface. Grab听a baseball-size听piece of dough, and roll it out with your hands into a one-inch-thick log. Cut the roll into bite-size pieces, around three-fourths of an inch wide,听and set them aside on a lightly floured baking pan.

Place your听gnocchi in the boiling water in several batches. They will swirl around and sink. Once they float back to the top, scoop them out with a slotted spoon, and place them in a bowl of ice water for two听minutes. Strain all the gnocchi, and place them on a baking tray lined with a paper towel.听Then听fry the gnocchi in vegetable oil in a nonstick frying pan until golden brown on each side. Lightly season with salt and pepper, and pair with your favorite sauce. Butter browned over medium-low heat with sage leaves is a great, simple option.


Puff Pastry Apple Cinnamon Rolls

鈥淭hese buns have become a staple at the lodge,鈥 Heidi says.听鈥淚 created them as a total experiment one day when I was out of yeast and flour. They are a great alternative to your traditional yeasted cinnamon buns and take half the time. What I often do is make them the night before, cover them, and keep them in the fridge overnight. Then when I鈥檓 up at the crack of dawn to start the day鈥檚听prep, I just turn on the oven and toss them in.鈥

Ingredients:

  • 1 box puff pastry
  • 陆 cup salted butter
  • 戮 cup听light brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon ground clove
  • 陆 cup walnuts or pecans,听coarsely chopped
  • 1 Granny Smith apple, grated

Directions:

Take your puff pastry out of the freezer to thaw. This will usually take a few hours at room temperature.听Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Dust your work surface with flour to prevent sticking, and roll your puff pastry into a rectangle about eight inches long.

To prepare the听filling, slowly melt the听butter in a pan on low heat. Then add the brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, nuts, and grated apple to the melted butter. Stir until combined, then听spread evenly over the rolled pastry, leaving just a little room on the sides.

Starting at the long end closest to you, roll the rectangle tightly into a cylinder. Pinch the seam so it鈥檚 well sealed, and roll the dough over once onto itself to make sure it鈥檚 tight. Using a serrated knife, cut it evenly into about 12 to 15 buns.听Place the buns onto parchment paper on a baking tray, leaving about a fourth inch between each one. Bake for 30 minutes听or until golden on top.

Lead Photo: Mark Olsen/Unsplash

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