How Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison Skied Lhotse
Nelson and Morrison are the first to successfully ski 7,000 vertical feet from the summit of Nepal鈥檚 Lhotse, one of the most prized high-altitude lines in the world

Big-mountain skiers听Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison鈥檚 first turns on the summit of Lhotse, the fourth-highest mountain in the world, took commitment. The snow on the 27,940-foot听Himalayan听summit was waist-deep and sugary, sloughing off a rocky pyramid at the top of the mountain. With a slope angle of 60 degrees and plenty of high-altitude exposure, this triangular听cliff was their entrance into the Lhotse Couloir, the iconic听2,000-foot听north-facing line听that makes this descent so coveted by skiers.
At 2:30 p.m. on Sunday, September 30, both Nelson and Morrison clicked into their ski bindings on the summit and became the first people to ski the Lhotse Couloir. Morrison dropped into the right side and made hop turns from the top. 鈥淭here was just enough snow to make it possible,鈥 says Morrison.
Nelson arm-wrapped a rope and shimmied to get around the cliff. Then听both skiers made calculated, careful turns into the fold of the couloir.
The rest of the 7,000-foot descent was direct and uncomplicated, save for the fact that they were skiing at such a high elevation and the snow conditions were ever changing. Morrison described the conditions as a 鈥渕ixed bag of tricks鈥 that varied from 鈥渞elatively good snow, to ice, to breakable crust, to windboard.鈥
鈥淗alf our skis would be on this slippery wind slab and the other half would be buried in sugar,鈥 says Nelson.

Both Nelson and Morrison had dreamed of skiing Lhotse for years. Morrison, who lives in Tahoe City, where he founded a luxury-home-building company, has long been an established skier and climber in the Sierra Nevada. Only in the past few years has he been pushing for bigger descents in higher mountains鈥攎any of those projects, including skiing Makalu, Denali, and Papsura, he has done with Nelson. Nelson is one of the most accomplished expedition leaders and ski mountaineers in the world. In 2012, she became the first woman to climb two 8,000-meter peaks鈥擡verest and Lhotse鈥攊n 24 hours. Having climbed Lhotse before gave her familiarity with the mountain, which helped when she came back to ski it, she says.
The听Lhotse expedition started at the very end of August, timed to coincide with the end of monsoon season and when snow would be covering the high peaks of Nepal鈥檚 Himalayas. Their group鈥攚hich included five Sherpas, two icefall doctors, and photographers Dutch Simpson and Nick Kalisz鈥攚as alone on the Everest Massif, a sharp contrast from the ever crowded peak climbing season in the springtime. From the beginning, their trip was challenging. The group had to set their own route and fix听lines. And weather delayed the arrival of gear and food. At one point听they were uncertain if their skis would even arrive at听Everest Base Camp.
鈥淓very part was hard and super challenging,鈥 says Nelson, reflecting on the expedition from her home in Telluride, Colorado. 鈥淏ut now that I step away from it, I see what a cohesive group we had in terms of the Sherpas, the cooks, and Nick and Dutch. We all managed to go that extra mile. The Sherpas especially worked so hard with the icefall doctors. It鈥檚 funny, in hindsight, how everything had to happen perfectly.鈥

Nelson and Morrison said they could never have skied this first descent without their entire group. 鈥淭o be the only team in the Western Khumbu, put all the routes in, and make it happen and get to the summit required a monumental effort from the whole team,鈥 says Morrison.
Palden Namgye Sherpa, the sirdar (or lead Sherpa), and two other听Sherpas听set up fixed ropes to the top the day before Nelson and Morrison summited. Early in the morning on September 30, Nelson and Morrison started their push to the summit with Simpson, Kalisz, and Fu Tashi Sherpa and Ila Nuru Sherpa. 鈥淭hey helped so much with trail breaking and just smiling and being psyched,鈥 says Nelson. 鈥淚t makes all the difference. It helps so much.鈥
The climb to the top was cold and slow-going. They broke trail through ankle-deep snow that was punchy and slippery. Once they got into the couloir, the snow came up to their knees. 鈥淭here was no break in it whatsoever,鈥 says Nelson. 鈥淲hich is what makes it such a great ski.鈥

For the majority of their expedition, Nelson and Morrison did not use oxygen. But about 1,500 feet below the summit, they changed their minds and decided to strap on masks to help them push to the top.
鈥淚t was really hard for me, I really wanted to do it without oxygen,鈥 says Nelson, explaining that听the mask makes her feel claustrophobic. But without it, Nelson says the climb to the summit would have taken five hours longer. At one point, they were crawling on all fours through deep snow in the middle of the couloir.

To descend, they used their skis, boots, and poles. They did not use ropes because they did not have to rappel. At one point, the pinch of the couloir was hardly wider than Morrison鈥檚 skis, but the two of them were able to shimmy back and forth to get through the ten-foot-long choke. The entire north-facing couloir was engulfed by shadows.
鈥淵our whole view in the couloir is this huge wall,鈥 says Nelson. 鈥淵ou鈥檙e looking right at Everest. It鈥檚 dark and cold. As you come out of it, the whole aspect shifts to the west and you go from this narrow couloir to this massive face鈥攊t must be a half-mile wide. It was totally in the sun.鈥
Nelson and Morrison took off across the face, spreading out and making long links of turns. They laughed and enjoyed more relaxing turns to Camp III at 26,000 feet, where they took a break, drank some water, and packed up camp. But their day was not yet over. They still had another 5,000 feet to ski back to Camp II.
鈥淎t that point, the sun had gone away,鈥 says Nelson. 鈥淭hat was the steepest part of the descent and it had refrozen.鈥

For the team, this historic feat was a dream come true. Standing on the summit of Lhotse with Nelson and their skis was a culminating experience, says Morrison. 鈥淚t was monumental and epic and awesome to be skiing down from the Lhotse Couloir,鈥 he says. 鈥淲e were pinching ourselves.鈥
And though听Nelson has set records on Lhotse before, this time听she has the first descent鈥攚ithout the female qualifier.