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Many of these cookbooks really shined when it came to (surprise) salads.
Many of these cookbooks really shined when it came to (surprise) salads. (Photo: Milles Studio)

The Vegetarian (and Vegan) Cookbook Smackdown

A pair of recovering carnivores, faced with too many recipe options, put five plant-based cookbooks to the test

Published: 
Many of these cookbooks really shined when it came to (surprise) salads.
(Photo: Milles Studio)

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When I pitched the idea to my husband聽of eating less meat, I was surprised when he actually seemed excited about it. He only had one request: 鈥淐an we actually use cookbooks and not just wing it with the recipes?鈥澛

I pulled out my old, the Bible of all nineties-era vegetarians. But the recipes (many of which called for fat-free dairy ingredients) felt dated. So I turned to my trusty Amazon Prime account, but searching 鈥減lant-based cookbook鈥 turned up more than 1,200 options. Clearly I鈥檓 not the only one yearning for a more conscientious diet these days. Where to start, though?聽

Lucky for me, plenty of my friends are聽practitioners of plant-based diets, so I asked them聽for their favorite cookbooks聽and ordered the five that seemed to be on everyone鈥檚 list. Then we lived off them for a few weeks. I wanted to find the book with the tastiest recipes, of course, but I was also looking for one that fit my lifestyle. That means recipes I can make fairly quickly after my post-work run, ingredients I can find and afford, and a maximum of three vessels required for cooking (we don鈥檛 have a dishwasher).

This is how the books stacked up.


#5: The Plantpower Way

The Authors: Ultra-endurance athlete Rich Roll and his wife, plant-based chef and artist Julie Piatt.聽
The Sell: Meat is the only聽thing standing between you and your best self聽(or something).聽

shines brightest in the salad section, with clever combinations like cabbage beet ginger slaw and聽a roasted corn and tomato number that鈥檚 perfect for summer. We also had decent luck with the blackened tomato and cashew sauce served over pasta鈥攖hough in our reforming meat-eater eyes, it seemed lacking on protein for a post-workout meal.

I didn鈥檛 get to try as many recipes as I鈥檇 like from this book for one big reason: many of them聽call for specialized ingredients like gluten-free tamari, mung beans, or soy-based pasta noodles. My best grocery store is Walmart, and Whole Foods is more than an hour away. Those are things that I鈥攁nd many other Americans鈥攕imply cannot get.聽

My other issue with The Plantpower Way聽is that, because I have a history of disordered eating, I try really hard not to equate my self-worth with my food choices. But in this book, the two are completely intertwined. There鈥檚 lots of talk of detoxing oneself from heavy metals by eating cleansing foods like beet soup. Roll and Piatt are quick to point out in their intro that this is not a diet book, but they give clear instructions for 鈥渢ransformation via the phoenix path.鈥 With no oils, fats, processed foods, gluten, or refined sugars, it sounds like a diet to me. I love that their popularity is converting others to a plant-based lifestyle. But by the end I felt myself teetering on the edge of falling back into disordered eating. This book wasn鈥檛 for me.聽

Taste Factor: Good, but not great. The recipes I tried worked fine, though聽I did end up adding more salt and sometimes amping up the spice.聽

Usefulness Factor: If I lived in a different place, with access to a Whole Foods and a Visa Black card, I would probably keep this book in my collection for inspiration. It does offer many primers on useful basics for plant-based eating, like how to make homemade coconut milk and punchy fermented kraut. 聽聽

Smug Factor: GOOP on gluten-free, raw, vegan EPO.聽


#4: Plenty

The Author: Celebrated London chef and food writer Yotam Ottolenghi.聽
The Sell: Gorgeous, restaurant-quality dishes where veggies are the star.

came highly recommended by several friends and, all important, my mom. Ottolenghi聽isn鈥檛 a vegetarian, and so this is a good transitional book for meat eaters who are trying to reform their ways. He tops dishes with eggs, allows cheese in the mix, and even suggests pairing a few items with smoked fish or meat. Alongside some of the more strict books, this felt downright reckless.聽

The recipes are fantastic, with rich flavors, great mixes of texture, and plenty of protein and fat to make the dishes feel satisfying. Unfortunately, they鈥檙e also hellishly time consuming. The first recipe we tried was a mushroom ragout with poached duck eggs, in which the mushrooms have to be cooked in small batches so they sear properly. I started cooking at 7:30 P.M.聽after going for a run, and we ate well after 10. The same thing happened when constructing a roasted veggie tart.聽

The other problem with this book is that it鈥檚 organized by vegetable. While that鈥檚 great for figuring out what to do with the chicory that came in your CSA box, it鈥檚 sometimes unclear whether a dish is meant to be an appetizer, side, or main. Things like roasted butternut squash with sweet spices, lime and green chile, or caramelized endive with Gruyere, seemed stuck in the middle鈥攖oo hearty (and complicated) to be a side, but too light to be a main.聽

Taste Factor: Unreal. The dishes we tried, we adored. I鈥檇 pay good money for them in a restaurant. 聽

Usefulness Factor: Very low. This is not a book made for harried weeknight chefs. Save these recipes for dinner parties or special occasions.聽

Smug Factor: Nonexistent. Ottolenghi admits upfront that he鈥檚 a meat eater, and you never feel judged for thinking,聽鈥淚鈥檇 like to put an egg on that.鈥澛


#3:听The VB6 Cookbook

The Author: New York Times food journalist and recipe writer Mark Bittman. Of all the authors on this cookbook list, I trust his judgment the most.聽
The Sell: Eating plant-based breakfasts and lunches, then eating whatever you want for dinner, can make you a healthier human.聽

stands for 鈥渧egan before six,鈥 and it鈥檚 a philosophy Bittman devised to stay healthy while being a food writer. He consumes no animal products for breakfast and lunch, then eats a healthy 鈥渇lexitarian鈥 dinner. Sometimes that means meat, sometimes it doesn鈥檛.

This is technically a diet book, which I didn鈥檛 realize when I ordered it. But the recipes aren鈥檛 particularly carb- or fat-phobic, so it doesn鈥檛 feel overly focused on weight loss. In fact, the whole thing felt refreshingly moderate.

We found the recipes to be an easy bridge between eating tons of animal products and eating less of them. Think of these as dishes to wean you off of meat. Eggs and dairy are allowed at first in creative recipes like a dinner porridge. But there are plenty of vegan lunch recipes you can make for dinners once you鈥檙e ready to go cold turkey, like teriyaki tempeh with bok choy. There are a couple of places where Bittman and I don鈥檛 see eye-to-eye, like when he calls for brown rice in his risotto (blasphemy!), but for the most part, the recipes are what I鈥檝e come to expect from his New York Times writings鈥攂old flavors, fuss-less preparation, and helpful intel on new ingredients and techniques.

Taste Factor: More, please!聽Dishes are uncomplicated but delightful.聽

Usefulness Factor: My only real complaint is that I tend not to cook new breakfasts and lunches every day鈥擨 don鈥檛 have time. Because most of the true plant-based meals in the book were created for those meals, I had to wait and cook them on less-rushed weekend mornings. We鈥檒l end up keeping a lot of the excellent flexitarian dinners in rotation, even if they don鈥檛 completely count within the scope of this story.聽

Smug Factor: Zero. This is a judgement-free zone. Bittman won鈥檛 tell you what not to eat鈥攊nstead he guides you through what worked for him.聽


#2: Oh She Glows Every Day

The Author: Angela Liddon, a plant-based blogger turned cookbook author.聽
The Sell: Nutrition-packed food that your whole family will eat.聽

I had to be talked into trying , with its oh-so-juice-cleanse-y title.聽But I鈥檓 glad my friends made me give it a try. The recipes are excellent and written with time and ease in mind. The creative salads are the standouts. Liddon has a gift for turning the oft-maligned side into a bona fide main dish, topped with seasoned legumes, roasted nuts, and interesting grains. She celebrates produce rather than falling into the vegetarian-cookbook trap of trying to imitate favorite animal-product-laden dishes.

We thoroughly enjoyed her sweet potato, spinach, and coconut curry recipe, along with her Big Tabouli Bowl. Her marinated lentils have become a standard in my fridge, and I鈥檒l often top a lunchtime salad with a spoonful.聽

Taste Factor: Yum. You could cook from this book for a year without boring your palette.聽

Usefulness Factor: Excellent. Liddon鈥檚 prep and cooking time estimates were accurate, and she notes if something needs to be started the night before (like overnight soaking聽grains or聽beans).

Smug Factor: Gwyneth in training. The聽Miracle Healing Broth and Satiety Smoothies will make you roll your eyes a bit, but Liddon does keep it real enough to admit that sometimes her kid won鈥檛 eat her recipes.聽


#1:听Thug Kitchen: Eat Like You Give A F*ck

The Authors: Matt Holloway and Michelle Davis are Southern California food bloggers who have turned their vegan cooking into a cookbook empire with three plant-based titless plus a whole host of veggie-amorous merchandise.聽
The Sell: Fast(ish) food for adventurous eaters.聽

When I asked my Facebook friends what plant-based cookbooks they adored, they mentioned more than any other volume. People love this book, and I can see why.聽

These recipes are made for people who want to eat hearty food that doesn鈥檛 require the sacrifice of an animal, not for those looking to consume mostly lettuce and fresh-pressed kale juice. The authors helpfully categorize recipes as breakfasts, snacks and salads, soups and stews, and mains, so there was no question about whether something I was making was going to be substantial enough to suit our dinnertime needs.聽

We plowed through the five-spice fried rice with dry-fried tofu after a five-mile evening run and felt completely satisfied. The black bean tortas with coconut chipotle mayo were equally rich and made enough leftovers for several days.聽

Taste Factor: Excellent. The authors aren鈥檛 afraid to use hefty doses of curry or five spice powder to make a dish interesting. (I usually ended up adding a touch more spice than the recipes called for, but we鈥檙e heat lovers, so that鈥檚 not unusual.)

Usefulness Factor: Weeknight appropriate. I do wish the recipes gave an estimate of the time they take, but for the most part I was able to make dinnertime happen before聽9 P.M.鈥攁 reasonable time for me.聽聽

Smug Factor: Surprisingly low. On a scale from 1 to GOOP, I鈥檇 rate this book as a newbie Crossfitter who鈥檚 excited about their new find but not in so deep as to be supremely annoying. Plus, the authors are pretty good at explaining some of the more unusual ingredients they use (like nutritional yeast) and give ideas on where to find these items. 聽

Lead Photo: Milles Studio

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