Patagonia has already mastered the puffy and聽successfully launched a line of sustainable foods and snacks. Now it wants to bring its Earth-first manufacturing philosophy to craft brewing, adding the first beer to its Patagonia Provisions lineup: .听
The company first聽entered the beer market聽in 2013, partnering with New Belgium for a 40th anniversary beer. 鈥淚t was really just a special-event beer,鈥 says Brigit Cameron, the senior director for Patagonia Provisions. When the leftover cans聽got snapped up, the company realized there might be enough interest to produce a brew for wide-scale distribution. 聽
But Patagonia doesn鈥檛 add products to its 聽just聽based on demand. 鈥淓very product has to have a deep reason for being,鈥 says Cameron. 鈥淭he whole mission is to rethink our food-supply chain.鈥 For example, Patagonia Provisions doesn鈥檛 produce shelf-stable sockeye salmon just because it鈥檚 a delicious thing to pull out of your pack on a hike. It does it to support sustainable commercial fishing practices, with the idea being聽that if sustainable fishing can become lucrative, more fishermen will choose to participate.
So how could they apply the same philosophy to beer?聽
Enter kernza, a Eurasian grass that produces a wheat-like product. In 1983, plant breeders at the , a Kansas-based non-profit doing sustainable agriculture problem-solving, started experimenting with a perennial grain. While most grains are annuals鈥攆ields must be re-tilled, plowed, and planted each year鈥攌ernza sticks around all year, with no need for a costly replanting process.
鈥淚t鈥檚 not overwhelming, but you find your palate hunting for it. It lingers with just a touch of heat, but it has a mellowness like a rye would produce.鈥
Perennials like kernza are good for agriculture for a few reasons. First, tilling the soil almost always results in at least some topsoil loss, even when using best practices. And running tractors to re-plow and re-sow sucks up聽fossil fuels. A grain that comes back year after year has a softer footprint than its one-season-and-done cousins. Plus,聽kernza's聽giant root system聽can actually reduce聽carbon in聽the atmosphere,聽says Cameron. This process聽鈥渋s going to be so important for mitigating climate change,” she says.听
While the Land Institute has spent the last 30 years perfecting the grain for North American growing, there was still one issue: no market for the final product. Which is where Patagonia Provisions comes in. 鈥淲e want farmers to know that if you grow this kernza, we鈥檒l take it,鈥 says Cameron.听
And they'll聽brew it. Long Root Ale, which will be available in select聽Whole Foods聽starting Monday, uses kernza for about 15 percent of its grain makeup. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not overwhelming, but you find your palate hunting for it. It lingers with just a touch of heat, but it has a mellowness like a rye would produce,鈥 says Christian Ettinger, the founder and brewmaster at 聽in Portland, Oregon.听
Hopworks, which has been a leader in organic brewing since it opened in 2007, brewed the beer for Patagonia. Cameron says choosing Hopworks as a partner was easy. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e a B-corporation, we鈥檙e a B-corporation. They鈥檙e fully organic certified and they really, deeply care about the things we care about,鈥 she says. As for聽Ettinger, he聽says that getting that call from Patagonia was one of the highlights of his聽career.听
Still, it wasn鈥檛 all hugs and beer聽mugs clinking聽when it came to crafting the final product. Ettinger's聽natural instinct was to create a really hoppy, Northwest-style beer. But the California contingent wanted something more session-able. After a few iterations, they finally met in the middle,聽with a 5.5 percent ABV ale.听
For now, Long Root Ale is only available at West聽Coast Whole Food locations. However, the company is eyeing expansion to the East Coast. And this may not be the last kernza offering from Patagonia:聽Ettinger says that he wants to continue playing with the grain, perhaps experimenting with malting it聽or doing a brew with a higher percentage of the stuff.听
The only real departure between this beer and the rest of Patagonia鈥檚 offerings? While the company鈥檚 puffies and corduroy pants are known for lasting decades, the beer doesn鈥檛. Before you know it you鈥檙e eyeing the bottom of the can and reaching for another.听