In the beer aisle, we tend to make decisions聽based on risky factors like label allure or suggestions from the anonymous critics who actually take the time to contribute to review sites. Which means you鈥檝e got a pretty good shot at spending your hard-earned cash on a crappy bottle. This is unacceptable in the Information Age.
鈥淲hat tastes good to one person is really subjective,鈥 says Trace Smith. Smith is the COO of , an app that uses crazy amounts of data to tell consumers what beers and wines they might like. Palates are a bit like thumbprints, Smith says: They鈥檙e unique from person-to-person, and they dictate whether you鈥檙e more inclined towards, say, a caramel-flavored malt beer over a bitter IPA. 鈥淲e looked at Pandora鈥檚 Music Genome Project and thought, 鈥榃hy can鈥檛 we do something like that for beer and wine?鈥欌
So the Next Glass team went on the ultimate beer run, sending a van to gather 15,000 beers from 48 stores in 35 cities. They ran each brew through a mass spectrometer that essentially sorts all the chemical compounds in a beer by size, which produced tens of thousands of data points to work with. By feeding them into Next Glass鈥檚 app, Smith claims it can tell you whether you鈥檒l like a beer or not based on how its chemical compounds compare with the beers you normally drink.聽
鈥淲e looked at Pandora鈥檚 Music Genome Project and thought, 鈥榃hy can鈥檛 we do something like that for beer and wine?鈥欌
An app that can pare down our beer-aisle deliberations just as Netflix feeds you movie recommendations? It sounds great, but Next Glass doesn鈥檛 portend to know how every single chemical compound found in beer affects taste. For example, the app will tell you that a beer contains diacetyl (the compound that gives some brews a buttery flavor) but translating that into a qualitative measure of 鈥渂uttery flavor鈥 is beyond its powers.
鈥淏eer is an extremely complex matrix of hundreds of different compounds, several hundred of which have been identified and determined to play at least some sort of role in the flavor profile,鈥 explains Brett Taubman, a researcher at Appalachian State鈥檚 Fermentation Sciences department. 鈥淲e're still a long way from understanding exactly how all of the compounds come together to determine a beer's flavor profile.鈥澛
There鈥檚 also the fact that a beer鈥檚 flavor profile changes as it ages鈥sometimes for the better and sometimes not. And the same beer from the same brewery can vary year by year due to tweaks in a recipe or subtle changes in the brewing process.聽
Perhaps the biggest variable Next Glass fails to address convincingly is your complexity. A 鈥測ou鈥檒l-probably-like-this-too鈥 rating system feels insufficient when it comes to the human palate. 鈥淚 never know what I'm going to like, let alone what anyone else will,鈥 says Emily Engdahl, who runs , a website that helps visitors to Oregon figure out exactly where they should go drinking. 鈥淭here are times I pour myself a beer and think 鈥榃hoa. That sounded way better than this tastes.鈥欌 Engdahl鈥檚 job is to show the drinking public that there鈥檚 something out there for every taste, and that there are no wrong or right choices. She鈥檚 not convinced that an app could ever聽top the human factor in that sense, but she thinks it could be a great step for encouraging new connoisseurs to branch聽out and learn about what's on the market.
When I poked around the app, it paired me with several brews I absolutely love鈥攐ne from Bells and one from Oscar Blues. It also suggested something I鈥檇 drink only in the throes of a dire crisis鈥攁n orange creamsicle ale. (In all fairness, I鈥檇 never tried it, but I can say with certainty that I never will.) Creamsicle ale aside, I had tried most things offered up in the app鈥檚 first round of suggestions, but, then again, I write about beer for a living. For someone just starting their foray into craft brews, the suggestions likely would have been unique, but not maddeningly-impossible-to-find-at-your-local-liquor-store unique.
Like any good beer snob, the company will need to stay on top of new offerings and continually do beer censuses in order to keep the app relevant. But its other challenge may be tougher: Replacing the social aspects of talking about beers with friends. 鈥淭hat's the whole point of beer鈥攖o bring everyone to the table. And the conversations can be funny and enlightening and wandering tales of so much more than styles or beer, for that matter,鈥 says Engdahl. 鈥淚'm not so naive to think that an app couldn't be created to accurately guess beer suggestions鈥攂ut what fun would that be?鈥