In November, climber topped out on The Lightning, a long and steep route in Vail, Colorado's聽Fang Amphitheater聽whose central feature聽in the winter is an ice pillar about 120 feet high, flanked by a rock wall and ridges of huge, jagged icicles. Bono had聽to contort and hang upside down while digging ice picks into a literal ceiling of rock鈥攁聽mashup of rock and ice climbing with the help of ice tools known as mixed climbing. This made Bono the first聽American woman to climb an M13 grade, the mixed climbing version of a V16 bouldering problem.聽Two weeks later, Canadian 聽became the first North American woman to climb M14 when she sent The Mustang P-51, a grueling horizontal traverse that鈥檚 considered one of the hardest mixed聽routes in the world.聽
These were huge accomplishments, but for the most part they only received air time聽in the blogs of climbing-specific magazines.聽But an all-women聽team of North American climbers and filmmakers聽think the sport deserves more attention鈥攏ot just because it鈥檚 a demanding and graceful iteration of climbing, but also because of its potential as one of the most gender-equal playing fields in action sports.

The team behind a forthcoming documentary, , says聽the leading edge of mixed climbing is changing fast. Mixed climbing, as a sport, is only 20 years old. American climber聽Jeff Lowe invented聽it in 1994 when he climbed Vail鈥檚 Octopussy, and was the first person to use his ice tools to聽climb a route that was both rock and ice. It opened up a whole new world of routes that would have been too difficult to climb using rock or ice techniques alone. Since then it鈥檚 grown in fits and spurts. In the early 2000's, for example, 鈥測ou could really feel the energy in the sport,鈥 Canadian mixed climber聽Raphael Slawinksi .聽鈥淣ew crags were being discovered, new routes were going up.鈥 In 2014, Will聽Gadd聽brought new attention to the sport when he聽 in Canada's Helmcken Falls.聽Mixed climber says there鈥檚 a big surge now, especially among women. For instance, this year 11 women competed at the Ouray Ice Fest, up from two in 2012. And the women involved are putting up routes that are almost as hard as what the dudes are doing.鈥
鈥淥n top of the fact that it鈥檚 a weird burly sport that not a lot of people do, here鈥檚 a group of women who are keeping up with the men.鈥
鈥淥n top of the fact that it鈥檚 a weird burly sport that not a lot of people do, here鈥檚 a group of women who are keeping up with the men,鈥 says Anne Banister, the producer of Mixtress. She says the potential of the sport's top women is聽what the filmmakers are聽trying to convey. 鈥淢ixed climbing lends itself much more to women,鈥 Banister says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 graceful, tools give women a height advantage, and we have flexibility and weight-to-strength benefits.鈥 All that鈥檚 missing is a bigger pool of women climbers competing and bringing more attention to the sport.
Glanc, a聽mountain聽guide聽known for winning competitions like the and putting up first ascents, hatched the idea in September. She聽was frustrated by the lack of exposure her fellow climbers were getting and, hoping to capture the current momentum,聽set out to find athletes and filmmakers who could help make the film within a year. The team successfully raised $13,333 on Kickstarter in December.
鈥淚t鈥檚 a fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants production,鈥 says Banister, herself a mixed climber and filmmaker.聽The team has been in Bozeman and Ouray for both places鈥 namesake ice festivals; next up is Vail聽to film with Bono, and Canada to try to catch Hueniken, before wrapping up filming this month. The plan is to put together an edit by next year.聽
The film will focus on the best North American women in the sport. There's聽Kitty Calhoun, an early advocate of both rock and ice climbing聽in the 80s聽who put up big alpine ascents from Kyrgyzstan to Alaska鈥檚 Kichatna Range. There's聽Kendra聽Stritch, a speed climber who's working to up the competitive side of mixed climbing by聽getting an American team together for the 2017聽. And there are the progressive climbers like Bono and Hueniken who are taking on the toughest, newest routes. By highlighting those climbers, the filmmakers hope to show the depth and breadth of the sport, and how much room it has to grow. 鈥淲e鈥檙e looking at who is going to step out next,鈥 Glanc says. 鈥淲e鈥檙e putting out a call to action.鈥
She and Banister say they want the film聽to appeal to climbers and non-climbers,聽men and women鈥攐ne of their main goals is聽to break down some of the mental blocks keeping people from giving mixed climbing a try. Glanc thinks that there are聽emotional and financial barriers聽around getting into a sport that involves an investment in ice tools along with standard climbing gear, plus the special techniques required. Still, they鈥檙e hopeful that they鈥檒l find a good audience when the film鈥檚 ready.聽
鈥淲e鈥檙e psyched that people seem to be rallying around it,鈥 Banister says. 鈥淧eople keep saying this is a film that needs to be made. They say, 鈥楴obody is talking about mixed climbing, nobody is talking about the women.鈥 And a lot of that feedback was from men.鈥