Before I tell you why I loved reading Chas Smith鈥檚 delightful new book, , I wish to raise two points of order.
First, a matter of personal disclosure: I do not know Chas Smith, and I have never so much as emailed the man, but I once practiced the very surf journalism that animates much of Smith鈥檚 self-loathing in Cocaine + Surfing, and I am personally acquainted with three of Smith鈥檚 main characters. Matt Warshaw, a dear friend of mine, appears as a Yoda-like surf historian who gamely points out that surfing and cocaine were both potentially born in Peru about 3,000 years ago.
Marcus Sanders, an occasional surfing companion of mine who occupies the in-law apartment in my San Francisco home, appears as a fellow surf journalist demanding that Smith remove a certain photograph from Smith鈥檚 tabloid-style website Beach Grit.
Finally, Brad Melekian, an English professor at the University of San Diego and a former surf journalist, has been a longtime correspondent of mine on the core existential question of Cocaine + Surfing: whether or not self-respect is even possible for someone whose job description is 鈥渟urf journalist.鈥 While writing for 国产吃瓜黑料, Melekian broke the most important drugs-plus-surfing story of all time, about the role of substance abuse in the death of former world-champion-surfer Andy Irons. Surf culture and the surf industry are both so allergic to anything resembling unvarnished truth that Melekian got widely and viciously attacked by, among others, Smith himself, who wrote that Melekian should go to hell.
Smith wrestles with the universal question of how to reconcile the life we once dreamt of living with the one in which we now find ourselves.
Now for my second point of order: Cocaine + Surfing is not really about cocaine and surfing. That鈥檚 a good thing, because although Cocaine + Surfing makes for a catchy title and a smattering of salacious anecdotes, it鈥檚 a stupid idea for a book. It鈥檚 an even stupider idea for a book conceived in the way that Smith initially (although not ultimately) conceived of it鈥攁s, to quote his equally-catchy subtitle, 鈥渁 sordid history of surfing鈥檚 greatest love affair.鈥 There have indeed been drugs in the surf world over the years, including a fair bit of cocaine, but cocaine is absolutely not surfing鈥檚 greatest love affair. (Waves, anyone? Weed?) Smith鈥檚 attempt to duct-tape over this awkward detail by defining 鈥渞eal surfers鈥 as belonging to the minuscule subset-of-a-subset of surfers who may once have had a statistically meaningful propensity for cocaine use鈥攔ich-and-famous pros and corporate tools in the surf-industrial complex鈥攊s equally absurd, not to mention offensive to the millions of dedicated surfers like myself who don鈥檛 give a rat鈥檚 ass what any of those people do with their time.
Despite this horribly misguided premise鈥攐r, rather, because of it鈥Cocaine + Surfing is a dazzling page-turner, highly-recommended beach reading, and absolutely the funniest book ever written about surfing. To hold those contradictions together in one鈥檚 mind, it helps to recognize that Smith鈥檚 literary models do not include serious works like my man Warshaw鈥檚 scholarly History of Surfing or William Finnegan鈥檚 Pulitzer-Prize winning Barbarian Days; A Surfing Life.
Cocaine + Surfing belongs, rather, to the honorable lemons-into-lemonade lineage that begins with Ross McElwee鈥檚 cult-classic 1986 documentary film Sherman鈥檚 March: A Meditation on the Possibility of Romantic Love In the South During an Era of Nuclear Weapons Proliferation, in which McElwee tries to make a film about the civil war but ends up interviewing all his ex-girlfriends instead, and Geoff Dyer鈥檚 , an unforgettable book about not writing a book about D. H. Lawrence.
In the same spirit, Cocaine + Surfing is a book about a self-loathing surf journalist getting the seemingly-brilliant idea to write a book about cocaine and surfing, hitting the road for research in various corners of the surf industry, discovering that it鈥檚 actually a stupid idea, and wondering how his once-promising life came to such a sad pass.
Or, as Smith puts it, 鈥淚 was supposed to have waved goodbye to this shallow end of the swimming pool years ago. I was supposed to be a Pulitzer Prize-winning war reporter by now, spilling valuable words on the plight of Syrian refugees while dodging bullets. Or maybe in the White House briefing room being shouted down by the press secretary for speaking truth to power. Or front row at the Fendi show in Paris, across from Anna Wintour 鈥 anywhere but here.鈥
Smith titles the chapters in Cocaine + Surfing after the classic stages in the so-called Hero鈥檚 Journey, the standard Hollywood-screenwriter鈥檚 plot template: The Call To 国产吃瓜黑料, Refusal of the Call, Supernatural Aid, Road of Trials and Tests. Hewing faithfully to format, with himself as questing hero and peace with his own dubious life choices as Holy Grail, Smith travels from Warshaw鈥檚 office in Seattle (of all places) to a wake for the defunct Surfing magazine, to a surf-movie premiere, surf contest, and 鈥渓ifestyle fashion鈥 sales convention. Along the way, Smith riffs amusingly on the relative histories of the drug and sport in question, and he does drum up a few reasonably scandalous cocaine-plus-surfing tidbits.
The surprising joy of this book, though鈥攁nd it really is a joy鈥攈as nothing whatever to do with cocaine. It lies entirely in Smith鈥檚 brilliant skewering of surf culture, the surf industry, his own complicity in both, and the frailty of the human ego.
This includes bewilderment at ludicrous surf fashion items like Reef鈥檚 Mick Fanning signature beer-bottle-opening flip-flops. 鈥淵es, Reef literally and honestly makes a sandal with a bottle-opener on the bottom,鈥 Smith writes. 鈥淟ike, you walk down the street to your friend鈥檚 BBQ, walk through dog urine or bum urine or horse urine 鈥 grab a beer, take your sandal off and use its bottom to pop the cap. Literally. Honestly.鈥 Smith also delights in deep inside-baseball stuff like his repeated reference to the formerly-terrific Australian surf magazine Stab as 鈥渢he fake version of Beach Grit鈥 when everybody knows that his own Beach Grit is in fact a fake version of the original Stab.

Smith is also quite good on the insane recalcitrance of many young pro surfers around journalists, combined with their equally insane behavior in front of same鈥攁s if the culture has somehow deluded young pros into thinking that journalists are only allowed to write down whatever you say during a formal question-and-answer interview, so it鈥檚 fine to treat journalists like garbage and behave like a racist intoxicated cretin in their presence so long as you answer all of their direct questions with meaningless platitudes. (Notable exceptions, in my experience, include Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, honorable men who give reliably terrific interviews).
Smith is also an astute observer of surf culture鈥檚 exhausting repertoire of secret (and moronic) codes of cool, as in, 鈥淒on鈥檛 walk down the beach with your leash attached to your leg. Don鈥檛 hype a hurricane swell 鈥 Keep your hands in your armpits in the lineup. Don鈥檛 keep your hands in your armpits in the lineup if another surfer already has his hands in his armpits. Don鈥檛 rub sand in your wax before paddling out. Sometimes rub sand in your wax before paddling out based on thirty distinct factors.鈥 At one surf-industry gathering, Smith sees a young woman dressed scantily in Monster-Energy-branded clothes, working a Monster Energy Drink booth, and wonders 鈥渋f she was once excited to be a Monster Girl. Like, if that was once her dream.鈥 He runs into a brand representative 鈥渨ho is old now and has slowly slid down pole of relevant surf brands, Rip Curl wetsuits to On A Mission surfboard bags and is now shilling wax and skateboards. He should know better. He should have gotten out forever ago but the whole damned surf thing is a trap and he asks me, 鈥榊ou seen Dill-dog? Somebody said that bro is here but I swear he Christian Baled an hour ago. How鈥檚 that? I told him this party was gonna be on like Donkey Kong 鈥︹
My personal favorite is Smith鈥檚 introduction of a prominent filmmaker as having once made vampire softcore porn for Showtime. Smith then describes this guy ordering 鈥淢exican coffee with extra Mexican鈥 and quotes him as saying, to Smith, 鈥淲hy do you always tell people that I directed vampire softcore porn for Showtime? I鈥檝e had films in Cannes, in Sundance. I鈥檝e won awards.鈥
What makes all this winning instead of cruel is that the true target of Smith鈥檚 ridicule is Smith himself. He holds himself above nobody, implicates himself in all of surf culture鈥檚 dopiness, and caps his book with a 尘别补-肠耻濒辫补鈥meeting Melekian and conceding 100 percent that Melekian showed journalistic bravery in exploring the more painful aspects of the Andy Irons story. Reflecting on his own public abuse of Melekian, all those years earlier, Smith can only say, again of himself, 鈥淥ops 鈥 What a dick. What a prick. Trivializing cocaine abuse and writing myself into a story I鈥檓 not a real part of.鈥
Near the end of the book, Smith looks forward by looking inward, asking, 鈥淗ow does a surf journalist look at sixty? Does he look like an asshole? Does he just completely cave and wear the Mick Fanning beer opening sandal?鈥 Put another way, Smith wrestles with the universal question of how to reconcile the life we once dreamt of living with the one in which we now find ourselves.
I won鈥檛 spoil the plot by telling you how Smith answers that question except to say that he ends with the classic Hero鈥檚 Journey finale as Master of Two Worlds. And also that it involves a sandal, a beer, and the unmistakable taste of something unsanitary.