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Designed by a former Pentagon researcher, this $99 kit has an easy-to-follow, natural regimen. Plus, you get to wear these cool glasses.

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I Had My Doubts About FlyKitt. But It鈥檚 Proven Itself Time and Again on My Overseas Trips.

I should be wrecked.

It鈥檚 my first full day in South Africa after a brutal 33-hour journey from my home in Bend, Oregon. I woke at 3:15 A.M. to catch the first of three flights to Johannesburg, crossed nine time zones in economy class, and finally fell into bed at 9 P.M. Typically, my jet lag for such a long-haul trip lasts for days.

Strangely, though, I feel great. I have no brain fog. I鈥檓 not dizzy or cold or getting any odd-hour cravings. And I鈥檓 alert; in fact, fighting my way through Joberg鈥檚 frenetic traffic while driving on the left side of the road in a stick-shift rental isn鈥檛 even stressful. As a travel writer who鈥檚 logged about a million miles flying across every timezone on earth over the past 25 years, this state of normalcy has me dumbstruck. No jet lag? How can this be?

Unlike other globe-trotting trips, this time I used , a $99 jet lag鈥揵usting system that five years ago was only available to elite military personnel and a few top business executives. Now anyone can buy it online.

The contents of a FlyKitt, unzipped and on display: a pair of orange-lens glasses and various supplements in blister packs
The contents of FlyKitt鈥攙arious supplements and some blue-light-filtering glasses鈥攈elp take the edge off.听(Photo: Courtesy Tim Neville)

FlyKitt had me taking dietary supplements every few hours, drinking caffeinated, sugary beverages at specific times, and wearing blue-light-filtering glasses at others. The supplements, grouped in blister packs, have simplified names like 鈥減rotect鈥 (instead of vitamin C with tart-cherry powder) and 鈥渕ellow鈥 (instead of magnesium with melatonin). Also key is its app, which queried me about my regular sleep habits and upcoming flights before producing a schedule that told me when to take which pill, when to eat and drink, when to sleep, and when to wear the glasses. The app can detect if flights are delayed and recalculate the schedule instantly.

The regimen began shortly after my alarm went off, when the app told me to eat a high-protein, low-carbohydrate meal and pop two 鈥減rotect鈥 pills and one 鈥渟ustain鈥 pill (a mix of omega-3 fatty acids and fish oil). It听ended 45 hours and 26 pills later. And because the kit comes with enough supplements and drink mixes for two trips, I鈥檒l follow a similar routine when I fly home.

I鈥檇 heard about FlyKitt from an 国产吃瓜黑料 editor, who thought I鈥檇 be a good guinea pig to test its legitimacy, given how much I travel. I was skeptical. Having researched other jet lag remedies before鈥攍ike fasting and eating a hearty breakfast鈥擨 knew most are . Science that light (and avoiding light) and, to a lesser extent, melatonin, are the only things that shift your internal clock.

But in South Africa, feeling great, I鈥檓 flabbergasted. FlyKitt鈥檚 results are mind-bending. I want to know why it works, when no verified research out there yet supports key parts of it. My curiosity turns into a monthslong quest for answers.

A Brief History of FlyKitt and Jet-Lag Research

FlyKitt is the flagship product of the Los Angeles鈥揵ased company 听(which is in the process of rebranding itself as FlyKitt.) A biotech start-up, it has evolved from offering customized coaching and wellness plans for people in high-stress jobs鈥攕uch as CEOs and national security workers鈥攖o developing health and human-performance products.

The company was founded by Andrew Herr, a former researcher for the Pentagon who holds graduate degrees from Georgetown University in health physics, microbiology and immunology, and national-security policy. The company鈥檚 chief technology officer, Clayton Kim, studied neuroscience and economics at Brown, where he conducted sleep research in the lab directed by Mary Carskadon, one of the country鈥檚 preeminent sleep researchers. According to Herr and Kim, FlyKitt solves jet lag for 93 percent of their customers.

Fount founder Andrew Herr, left, and his chief technology officer, Clayton Kim
Fount founder Andrew Herr, left, and his chief technology officer, Clayton Kim (Photo: Courtesy FlyKitt)

FlyKitt鈥檚 work builds upon a considerable body of sleep research that dates back to at least , when scientists at the University of Chicago spent six weeks living in a cave in Kentucky and discovered that humans have internal circadian rhythms. (I once spent 82 hours in total darkness during a cave retreat and my own rhythm fell apart). In 1931, American aviator Wiley Post flew around the world in eight days and described what we now call jet lag, though that term didn鈥檛 appear until around 1966 during the golden age of air travel.

鈥淭here鈥檚 no such thing as ship lag,鈥 says Steven Lockley, a circadian-rhythm scientist, professor, and creator of the app , a FlyKitt competitor that uses tested scientific research and information from peer-reviewed papers听to help travelers overcome jet lag by dictating when you should get light and when you should avoid it. I鈥檝e tried Timeshifter multiple times, too, once while jumping 11 time zones between Oregon and Azerbaijan, and had only slight jet-lag-induced wooziness for a day. It is much cheaper than FlyKitt鈥$25 a year for unlimited trips or $10 for a single trip鈥攂ut you must begin the regimen of timed light exposure a few days before your trip.

What Is Jet Lag? And How Do Long-Haul Flights Affect the Body?

A woman wearing a neck pillow and a sleeping mask on her forehead dozes with her head leaning against the side of the inside of a plane, near a window
Sleep and light exposure both play into the FlyKitt solution, because your body is thrown off by cues it receives as you change timezones after a long flight. (Photo: Frantic00/Getty)

Jet lag is easy to explain. Crossing longitudes quickly leaves our internal clock鈥攐therwise known as our circadian rhythm鈥攁nd the actual clock at our destination misaligned. What鈥檚 extraordinary is how our bodies naturally adapt. This evolutionary gift lets us adjust to seasonal changes in daylight so we can function our best during the day and rest properly at night. Our internal clock is wired to predict how much daylight we’ll have tomorrow, which, eons ago, was crucial to human survival鈥攊t ensured we were awake at the right time and rested enough to find a mate, gather food, and avoid being eaten.

Since we鈥檝e only evolved to shift our body clocks by a few minutes each day, however, travel throws that bodily forecast off, and we suffer from jet lag. It鈥檚 a delicate system, so delicate that you don鈥檛 actually have to travel to throw a wrench into the works. Monday doesn鈥檛 suck just because it鈥檚 Monday; if you stay out too late on Friday and wake up too late on Saturday, you can suffer from 鈥渟ocial jet lag鈥 come Monday morning, even if you slept well on Sunday and were never hungover. Lockley calls that type of non-traveling jet lag 鈥渨obble.鈥

Circadian systems run roughly on 24-hour cycles, but each person is different. People who have shorter circadian rhythms tend to be early birds and generally have an easier time traveling east. People with longer circadian rhythms tend to be night owls and have an easier time traveling west.

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Circadian 鈥渞hythm鈥 is misleading, because it鈥檚 actually many rhythms. Our lungs, heart, kidneys, immune system, digestive system, brain, skin, and likely every cell have their own cycles of productivity and rest. That鈥檚 one reason why 听in the morning and why people who and spend long periods of time 鈥渄esynchronized鈥 tend to be at a , , and . Our bodies simply don鈥檛 function as well when our internal clocks aren鈥檛 in sync with the ones on our wrists. One study suggested that the only organ possibly exempt from this cycle is the testicle. (The boys must always be ready.)

Each organ鈥檚 鈥減eripheral clock鈥 follows one central clock, a collection of cells in your brain鈥檚 hypothalamus called the suprachiasmatic nucleus. 鈥淭hink of the SCN as the conductor of an orchestra,鈥 Lockley says, 鈥渁nd the peripheral clocks as the players.鈥 The SCN takes its cues from retina cells that contain a special pigment called melanopsin, which can sense changes in light, especially cyan鈥攁 key color in daylight and the reason why staring at the blue light emitting from your phone before bed can affect your sleep.

To shift your central internal clock and beat jet lag, then, all of your clocks must shift, a process that takes about one day per hour of time change. A light-dark cycle registered through your eyes is key to making that shift. You can speed that process up by manipulating that cycle and using melatonin. Says Lockley: 鈥淭hat鈥檚 the only thing to have ever been shown to shift the clock.鈥

The FlyKitt Solution to Jet Lag

None of this was new to Herr. 鈥淲henever you look at performance in the military, the circadian rhythm is huge,鈥 he told me. 鈥淪oldiers don鈥檛 get a lot of sleep, and they need to perform well at night.鈥

His research went deeper than that. During his years working with the military, Herr sought ways to help SEALs endure extreme conditions鈥攍ike riding for hours underwater in exposed submersibles鈥攁nd emerge ready to fight. He also worked with fighter pilots who felt inexplicably foggy after flying at high elevations. Both led him to understand how changes in pressure and available oxygen levels were causing inflammation throughout the body that hindered performance.

Herr鈥檚 knowledge came into play later, after founding Fount as a high-end coaching and supplement service. One of his clients, a senior executive, was flying from Washington, D.C., to Seoul to close a business deal, and the South Koreans seemed to have purposely scheduled meetings for a day and time when the executive would be struggling with jet lag. 鈥淭hey were using jet lag as a negotiating tool,鈥 Herr says. The client asked Herr if there was anything he could do to help him feel rested enough to keep from getting crushed.

Herr had a hunch. What if beating jet lag wasn鈥檛 just a circadian-rhythm problem but also an inflammation problem? He knew that commercial airlines don鈥檛 pressurize cabins to sea level鈥攊t鈥檚 too costly and stresses the hull鈥攂ut to 5,000 to 8,000 feet. For a person living in New York or Los Angeles, take-off is like being transported instantly to the elevation of Santa Fe, New Mexico, at 7,200 feet, where each breath yields about 16 percent less oxygen. 鈥淒epressurization is stressful on your body,鈥 says Kim.

听People who have shorter circadian rhythms tend to be early birds and generally have an easier time traveling east. People with longer circadian rhythms tend to be night owls and have an easier time traveling west.

So Herr created a new plan. He delineated听when and what the executive should eat, and how and when he should manage light by using blue-light-filtering glasses. He also gave his client supplements tailored to tackle inflammation specific to flying. Herr听incorporated compounds like tart-cherry powder, vitamin C, and omega-3 fatty acids, as well as methylated B vitamins听to help boost energy and aid neurological functions. He included small doses of melatonin, to offer the body鈥檚 peripheral clocks time cues (called zeitgebers) on whether it was day or night. He asked the client to eat small, protein-rich meals to manage fuel for the brain and to听consume caffeine with 13.5 grams of sugar at specified times to create managed spikes in insulin that served as more zeitgebers.

phone screenshot of a calendar with flight/food/glasses plans
(Photo: Courtesy Tim Neville)

Herr thought, If I could just tamp down the inflammation, tweak the central clock, and wrap it all up in a light-dark routine with enough napping, this client might arrive in South Korea able to function well but also sleepy enough at the right time to get听a good night鈥檚 rest. He could wake up and have his meeting with little to no issues.

It worked. The client emailed Herr the next day and said, 鈥淚 slept all night, I feel fantastic! What the hell did you give me?鈥

Over the next five years or so, Herr fine-tuned the regimen, bringing Kim on to create an algorithm and eventually teaming up with a supplement manufacturer to craft custom supplements at scale. The overarching idea has remained the same. 鈥淥ther methods require you to sort of 鈥榩repay鈥 and begin shifting your clock days before you leave,鈥 Kim says. 鈥淲e wanted to create something that you could do entirely while you鈥檙e in transit.鈥

Why I鈥檓 Convinced FlyKitt Is Legit

Fount has raised $14 million in venture-backed capital. And dozens of Olympians and professional sports teams have used FlyKitt, including the U.S. national men鈥檚 soccer squad during the last World Cup, Herr says. Even so, looking over the supplements before my departure, I wondered how safe the whole system might be. For my trip to South Africa, FlyKitt had me taking more than 800 times the recommended daily allowance of vitamin B12鈥攁 move designed, in part, to provide energy and prevent sleep. Curious, I reached out to two doctor friends, both of whom told me that the amount raised no red flags, assuming I didn鈥檛 consume that quantity every day. Doctors often prescribe that much vitamin B to people with malabsorption issues, one told me.

Dr. Stephan Pasiakos, director of the National Institutes of Health鈥檚 Office of Dietary Supplements, also wasn鈥檛 worried about FlyKitt鈥檚 cocktail of pills. 鈥淲hile not commenting on the product per se, and assuming none of the ingredients mentioned exceed recommended intakes, there are no health concerns in taking these together over a relatively short period of time for healthy adults,鈥澨齢e wrote me via email.

FlyKitt has never undergone a clinical trial, but Herr hopes the military will fund one before too long. He also acknowledges that the link between jet lag and inflammation is a 鈥渘ew discovery鈥 that existing science does not yet back. 鈥淏ut I can rebuke that science with results, which is science,鈥 he says, adding that FlyKitt鈥檚 results are based on thousands of test cases. 鈥淚t鈥檚 possible we are right for the wrong reason but we are, nonetheless, right.鈥 The company also offers a money-back guarantee. 鈥淲e do not get taken up on that very often.鈥

Late on my second day in South Africa, I begin to feel jet lag鈥檚 familiar wooziness seep into my head after returning from a short hike. But the symptom disappears as fast as it came on, after about 15 minutes. Following my return trip to Oregon, I experienced no jet lag at all. Still suspicious, I tried FlyKitt on a third trip, this one with 21 hours of travel, also across nine time zones, to Norway. Once again, zero jet lag.

On that return trip, I decide not to use FlyKitt. Huge mistake. I鈥檓 crushed for days鈥攆oggy-headed, cold, and so sleepy that I struggle to keep my eyes open until 6:45 P.M., only to awake at 2 A.M. A week later, I鈥檓 mostly back to normal. I run all of this by Lockley, who is a competitor, yes, but also impeccably qualified to weigh in. He鈥檚 unconvinced FlyKitt is a viable solution for jet lag. 鈥淢aybe you got lucky,鈥 he says.听鈥淢aybe your flights were timed just right for avoiding light and dark. Placebo is also a thing.鈥

Without a clinical trial, Herr himself can鈥檛 be entirely sure why it works, but he鈥檚 certain that it does.

鈥淥ccasionally, I ask myself, Did we really solve jet lag?鈥 he says. 鈥淏ut then I look at the results and can鈥檛 help but conclude that we did for the vast majority of people.鈥

The author wearing a scarf and standing in front of a brown hillside with blue sky and clouds behind it
The author in Afghanistan听(Photo: Courtesy Tim Neville)

Contributing editor Tim Neville is a night owl who can fall asleep almost anywhere at any time. In fact, he can鈥檛 remember the last time he was awake for take-off. He recently wrote an Outside story about the best听travel hacks听and a feature about the world鈥檚 most traveled people.

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People Are Traveling More Than Ever, Driving Residents Crazy. It鈥檚 Time to Listen to the Locals. /adventure-travel/news-analysis/paige-mcclanahan/ Tue, 03 Dec 2024 12:00:39 +0000 /?p=2689817 People Are Traveling More Than Ever, Driving Residents Crazy. It鈥檚 Time to Listen to the Locals.

Paige McClanahan, the author of 鈥楾he New Tourist: Waking Up to the Power and Perils of Travel,鈥 lays out exactly how we can do better

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People Are Traveling More Than Ever, Driving Residents Crazy. It鈥檚 Time to Listen to the Locals.

Paige McClanahan, a journalist and travel writer, is much too diplomatic to phrase it this way, so allow me to be the grump: you鈥檙e the reason locals so often dislike tourists.

鈥淭ravel has become a consumerist exercise where the goal is to get our money鈥檚 worth out of a place,鈥 McClanahan says in a phone interview from her home in France. 鈥淲e need to wake up. Paris owes you nothing.鈥

The tourist-local tension has been around since before Marco Polo, but in her debut book, , McClanahan shows us just how bad things have gotten. Globally, travelers will log some 1.5 billion trips abroad by the end of 2024鈥攖he largest movement of people the planet has ever seen. In a handful of years, that number could reach 1.8 billion. Closer to home, Americans are on track to take almost two billion domestic leisure trips annually by 2025. Despite the buzz around mindful experiences and sustainable travel, locals from Athens to Zermatt have had enough of us. Some Hawaiians have requested that we stay home. Romans fine tourists up to $280 for clogging the Spanish Steps. In July, an annoyed mob roamed Barcelona鈥檚 boulevards dousing visitors with squirt guns.

McClanahan, who writes for The New York Times, The Washington Post, and The Guardian, has plugged her journalistic pen into this bursting dike with empathy, not by shaming or lecturing anyone. Nor does she ask people to stay put, which would be detrimental to conservation work, prosperity, and cultural bridge building. Instead, McClanahan uses the voices of locals adversely affected by tourism to inspire us to travel with more curiosity, humility, and appreciation for how our holiday can be hell on the climate and local residents. Above all, she wants us to know that we have the power to make travel a force for good.

This elevated mindset is the hallmark of the new tourist. Becoming one isn鈥檛 hard. It means visiting Iceland in the off-season or trading the line at the Louvre for a Paris Noir walking tour to soak up the city鈥檚 Black history. You can control your partying in Amsterdam and stay behind the fence at the Grand Canyon. You can insist on supporting local guides and locally owned hotels, restaurants, and food carts. (The Barcelona mob targeted people eating at a Taco Bell, among other spots.)

鈥淓ven if you鈥檙e a low-budget traveler, you can still be a high-value visitor,鈥 McClanahan says.

McClanahan, who left the United States at age 26 and has spent the past 17 years writing from Africa and Europe, admits that she has made plenty of old-tourist mistakes鈥攍ike posting a self-serving Instagram reel from Angkor Wat that barely showed Angkor Wat. 鈥淚 live in a glass house,鈥 she says.

McClanahan casts no aspersions on the types of trips you like but does bristle at people who consider themselves 鈥渢ravelers鈥 and not tourists. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 deny that people travel for a huge range of reasons, some higher-minded than others,鈥 she writes in The New Tourist. 鈥淪o, sure, call yourself a traveler but never forget you鈥檙e a tourist, too.鈥 What matters is that we make informed decisions on how to travel in ways that put places and the people who live there first.

鈥淥ne of the most constructive things we can do in our flickering moment of life is to embrace the chance to leave our comfort zones鈥攖hose dangerous lairs where we learn to languish,鈥 she writes. She adds to me: 鈥淣one of us can wave a magic wand and change the behavior of millions of other people, but each of us can be that change.鈥

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Meet the Extreme Travelers Trying to Visit Every Country in the World /adventure-travel/essays/most-traveled-people/ Mon, 25 Nov 2024 11:00:52 +0000 /?p=2689264 Meet the Extreme Travelers Trying to Visit Every Country in the World

I tagged along on a surreal trip to a conflict zone in Azerbaijan with a group of explorers attempting to see every country on the planet. No matter that the war there wasn鈥檛 over yet.

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Meet the Extreme Travelers Trying to Visit Every Country in the World

It鈥檚 a pleasantly warm afternoon in Azerbaijan, a former soviet republic sandwiched between Russia and Iran, and the tank crewmen of the Qubadli regional Border Detachment are hosting a party. For hours they鈥檝e been working to raise a wedding-style tent and set a dozen tables with cartons of fruit nectar, bowls of nuts, and plates of pale pink meats. The Azerbaijanis have been fighting off and on for more than 30 years with Armenia, another ex-Soviet state a grenade toss to the west, but tonight the war can wait.

Around 5 P.M., 14 shiny Nissan Pathfinders, Toyota Land Cruisers, and Mitsubishi Pajeros come racing into the encampment behind a military-police escort vehicle鈥攁 boxy Russian-built Lada鈥攚ith lights flashing and engine whining. The SUVs file into a gravel parking area that was scratched out of the scrubland. Dozens of the detachment鈥檚 T-72 tanks and infantry fighting vehicles sit silently nearby like insects ready to sting.

The dust settles and about 30 civilians from more than 20 countries step from the cars, stretch their legs, and look around in wonder. Some are doctors. Some are vagabonds. All of them are here to see one of the world鈥檚 most contentious enclaves.

The detachment base sits on the fringes of Nagorno-Karabakh, a 2,700-square-mile patch of the Lesser Caucasus Mountains nestled inside Azerbaijan but historically home to a lot of ethnic Armenians, too. The two have been at each other鈥檚 throats for generations over this region, with thousands of lives lost. In the past four years, Azerbaijan has reclaimed the besieged area, and more than 100,000 Armenians fled back to Armenia. While the conflict appears to be over for now, there are remnants of the war everywhere: step off the road and a land mine might do you in.

Map of Azerbaijan
(Illustration: Erin McKnight)

A muscular, jovial colonel with thin, graying hair and slate-colored eyes comes forward in his battle dress. The tank crews stand at attention in navy blue boiler suits. His name is Murad, but that鈥檚 all he can say. A patch on his chest reads O (I) RH+, which is his blood type.

鈥淲elcome! Welcome!鈥 the colonel says to the guests. 鈥淲e鈥檙e so honored you are here.鈥

The leader of the visiting guests, Charles Veley, a 58-year-old from Marin County, California, steps forward from a white Mitsubishi that I鈥檝e been riding in, too. 鈥淭hank you for having us,鈥 Veley replies. 鈥淚 hear you have a surprise.鈥

鈥淵es, yes,鈥 the colonel says. 鈥淚 hope you enjoy.鈥

What鈥檚 no surprise is that Veley, who has a boyish grin and a neutral, even way of speaking, is here. That鈥檚 because he is, according to a system he created, America鈥檚 most traveled person, a wanderer who has visited more of the planet than almost any known human in history. Fewer than ten people have seen more of the globe than he has.

To quantify that, there are lists. The most straightforward one comes from the United Nations, which affirms that there are 195 countries in existence, including places like Palestine and the Holy See. Federal Express says that it delivers to more than 220 countries and territories. The list that Veley compiled, and that thousands of other extreme travelers recognize, tops out at more than 1,500 distinct places that are currently possible for one to visit. It includes countries, regions, enclaves, atolls, both poles, and at least one small, sheer-cliffed islet in the middle of the ocean. Russia isn鈥檛 just 鈥淩ussia,鈥 but 86 discrete stops. The United Kingdom has 30 stops, including islands like Herm and Sark. To see the United States, you must travel to 79 places that stretch from the Florida Keys to the Pribilof Islands in the Bering Sea.

鈥淐harles isn鈥檛 an adventure seeker but a knowledge seeker,鈥 his friend Kolja Sp枚ri, the German founder of the Extreme Traveler International Congress, a yearly gathering of the world鈥檚 most obsessive travelers that鈥檚 been held in such places as Baghdad, Equatorial Guinea, and Siberia, told me. 鈥淗e鈥檚 the spiritual father of all country collectors,鈥 he added in a blog post.

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From a Self-Cleaning Toothbrush to an Origami Yoga Mat: Our Writers鈥 Clever Travel Hacks /adventure-travel/advice/best-travel-hacks/ Mon, 21 Oct 2024 10:30:18 +0000 /?p=2685746 From a Self-Cleaning Toothbrush to an Origami Yoga Mat: Our Writers鈥 Clever Travel Hacks

From an e-toothbrush that self-disinfects and an airline where your bike flies free, to smart socks and a genius trick for entertaining kids, our tips will transform how you travel

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From a Self-Cleaning Toothbrush to an Origami Yoga Mat: Our Writers鈥 Clever Travel Hacks

Exploring a new destination is fun, but the rigamarole to get there, not so much. Plane travel can be exhausting, packing fraught, and ensuring you have what you need to stay safe and connected during your trip means taking a lot into consideration before you step out the door. We鈥檝e all been there many times.

But travel shouldn鈥檛 be so stressful. And those who鈥檝e made a profession out of it, like our travel writers, have many tricks they turn to on every trip that make their journeys bearable, and even enjoyable. 鈥淲hat are the hacks we should be using?鈥 we asked them. Their answers鈥攁nd their anecdotes about why they changed the way they pack or entertain their kids鈥攚owed us in these 16 ways.

Gear Hacks

馃槧 The Problem: You hate packing a regular toothbrush, and your electric one only plugs into the wall
馃挮 The Solution: The Suri e-toothbrush

A black Suri electric toothbrush rests in its case next to a camera and sun visor.
Suri is the modern answer to toothbrush toting. (Photo: Courtesy Suri)

Having to pack a regular old toothbrush is always such a letdown. I went electric a long time ago. At home I use an Oral B, but it鈥檚 bulky, the battery rarely lasts more than a week, and it鈥檚 prone to spontaneously buzzing and vibrating in my bag. Awkward.

Then I got a Suri. These electric toothbrushes are sleek, and their slender hard case has a built-in USB-C-powered UV light that disinfects. You can power it in the case, too鈥攏ot that you鈥檒l likely need to. The company claims the battery lasts 40 days on a single charge. I鈥檝e not personally tested this, but mine worked every day of the two weeks I just spent hopping between Oregon, Colorado and Virginia.

Suri is good for your conscience, too. We throw away upward of four billion regular brushes annually, and most electric versions are still heavy on single-use plastics. Suri鈥檚 are made of eco-friendly materials like cornstarch and castor beans. The handle is aluminum. All of it can be recycled for free. Now it too just lives in my bag. 鈥擳im Neville

馃槧 The Problem: You鈥檝e yet to find a sizable carry-on that fits in the overhead compartment or under the seat
馃挮 The Solution: The Cotopaxi 35L

The Cotopaxi Allpa 35L pack shoved below the plane seat in front of him.
The Cotopaxi Allpa 35L is the carry-on of choice for this travel writer. He has faith it will continue to last him years. (Photo: Courtesy Tim Neville)

Friends assume I鈥檓 a champion bag-packer. They might be right. In 2019 I spent three weeks circumnavigating the globe, with three stops (the South Pacific, Middle East, Scandinavia) in three climates, and all I brought was a carry-on. That was the first time I really put the Cotopaxi Allpa 35L ($225) to the test, and it鈥檚 since been my go-to bag for almost every travel adventure.

The zippered clamshell design has two interior mesh compartments for clothes and two smaller mesh pockets that stash my notebooks and batteries. There鈥檚 also an exterior laptop sleeve and another pocket that nicely accommodates my toiletry bag and sunglasses.听I can wear the Allpa like a backpack or carry it like a briefcase.

While I love roller bags, a soft-sided backpack is really the right way to fly. I jam the Allpa into those half-size overhead bins on regional flights, and if I don鈥檛 pack it to the gills, it fits under the seat in front of me (though The Allpa 28L is better for that). Critically, it鈥檚 subtly rugged鈥攊ts rubberized exterior adds neither bulk nor weight but has repelled snow, rain, and cat pee, as well as endured abuse in boats and one very dusty truck bed on an all-night trip across Zimbabwe. Five years in, mine looks pretty much the same as the day I bought it. 鈥擳.N.

馃槧The Problem: You can鈥檛 fit everything into your suitcase
馃挮 The Solution: Thule packing cubes

A carry-on suitcase filled with four white Thule packing cubes
Compress and organize with Thule packing cubes. You鈥檒l be surprised at just how much more you can fit into your bag. (Photo: Courtesy Thule)

To buy or not to buy packing cubes isn鈥檛 a question, because the answer is: absolutely. Not only can I cram more stuff in my luggage, with space-saving cubes of underwear and T-shirts, but having everything organized keeps me sane, and that makes life a million times easier on the road. Instead of rummaging around to find socks, I jump right to that cube. When flying, my family saves on baggage fees by bringing one big suitcase filled with everyone鈥檚 cubes to divvy up later. Packing cubes are super handy on river and backpacking trips too.

I鈥檝e gravitated to Thule鈥檚 for everything but nicer shirts and pants; those I put into an Eagle Creek Pack-It garment folder that keeps them (mostly) wrinkle-free. There鈥檚 a 鈥渃lean/dirty鈥 Thule cube fashioned with听a soft plastic barrier, perfect for a damp bathing suit, shoes, or dirty clothes. One could argue that cubes are cubes, but Thule鈥檚 are sturdy, allowing me to compress a maximum number of items into a dense packet without blowing out the zipper or stitching. 鈥擳.N.

馃槧The Problem: When you fly, your legs and feet swell uncomfortably
馃挮The听Solution: Compression socks

A woman shows off her black compression socks, which pull up to her knees.
Compression socks are all the rage鈥攁nd rightfully so: they help blood circulation and reduce swelling. (Photo: Courtesy Jen Murphy)

Rarely do I have the luxury鈥攐r luck鈥攐f flying to a far-flung destination in a lie-flat bed. Which is why I鈥檝e come to rely on compression socks鈥攚hat I call the poor man鈥檚 upgrade. Remaining seated for extended periods causes blood to pool in your legs, and that , so by the time you deplane, perhaps your feet have swollen to an alarming degree. Compression socks are the solution; designed to gently squeeze your ankles and calves, they stimulate better blood circulation, which in turn reduces swelling and lowers the risk of a serious condition called .

Bob Bacheler, managing director of the medical-transport service Flying Angels recommends compression socks on any flight of four or more hours. The most important consideration, he says, is a good fit鈥攏ot too tight or too loose. When I wear compression socks, my legs feel fresh rather than achy or tired.

I like Bombas鈥檚 colorful Everyday compression socks, which pull up just below the knee and deliver mild compression (15 to 20 mm Hg鈥攁 unit used to measure pressure). I tend to get cold on flights, and these thick cotton socks are warmer than others I鈥檝e tried. Levsox compression socks have a snugger fit (20 to 30 mm Hg) but they still don鈥檛 feel like they鈥檙e strangling my legs, and their extra arch support makes me feel like that part of my foot is getting a massage when I walk in them (and walk you should鈥攖he getting up every two to three hours). To reap the biggest benefits, Bacheler recommends staying hydrated, which increases blood circulation throughout your body, enhancing the effectiveness of the socks. 鈥擩en Murphy

馃槧 The Problem: You want to practice yoga on your trip, but your roll-up mat is too big to bring
馃挮听The Solution: The foldable Kama Mat

A woman does a downward dog on her foldable Kama Mat.
A Kama mat is more than just a place to do yoga; it can stand in as a picnic blanket and much more. (Photo: Courtesy Megan Michelson)

I first saw a Kama mat on a camping trip, when a friend unfolded this origami-style pad and placed it outside her camper van like a welcome mat where visitors were invited to leave their dirty shoes. Folded up, it resembles a large pizza box鈥搒ize trapezoid, but it pulls apart like you鈥檙e undoing a paper crane. Laid out, the mat is big enough for a downward dog. The Kama comes in three sizes: the largest option is seven feet by five feet unfolded, while the smallest looks more like a doormat at four by two feet. I was immediately won over by all the possibilities.

My Kama goes everywhere with me now. It鈥檚 a picnic blanket I stash in the back of my car, a beach pad that keeps my feet from getting sandy while I鈥檓 taking off my wetsuit after swimming or surfing, and a comfy place for my dog to sleep outdoors near the tent. The mat is half an inch thick, with a similar feel to a cushy sleeping pad, and it鈥檚 way more durable than your average yoga mat, thanks to its tough 100 percent Cordura material, a synthetic made entirely from recycled bottles that鈥檚 easy to clean. You鈥檒l want to on how to fold it correctly, unless origami comes naturally to you. They鈥檙e not cheap鈥攖he smallest size is $98 and the largest $233鈥攂ut they last and I鈥檝e yet to find something that compares. 鈥擬.M.

Tech Hacks

馃槧The Problem: You need a long-lasting, reliable power bank that鈥檚 allowed on airplanes
馃挮The Solution: OtterBox鈥檚 Fast Charge

A man holds up his OtterBox Fast Charge next to his cell phone while out on a river trip.
The OtterBox Fast Charge, hooked up to the left of writer Tim Neville鈥檚 cell phone, is packed with power and what he relies on for international travel. (Photo: Courtesy Tim Neville)

A working phone is indispensable on the road. It stores boarding passes, train passes, and itineraries in . With eSIMS opening the door to cheap data overseas, I now use my phone in places that were too expensive before, like Azerbaijan. All of this to say: I need a good TSA-approved power bank.

OtterBox鈥檚 Fast Charge has kept me going for about two years now. It weighs a pound, is the size of a thin brick tile, and stores a significant 20,000 milliampere-hours that you can tap through two ports, a USB-A and a USB-C. That鈥檚 enough oomph to resuscitate a flatlining iPhone 12 Pro at least three times. On river trips, it keeps my inReach satellite device alive for a week.

It charges things quickly, too鈥3.6 times faster than your standard five-watt transformer, according to OtterBox. I鈥檝e found that juicing my device for just five to ten minutes can push it well out of the red. In airplane mode I can fully charge my phone in about 45 minutes. When paired with OtterBox鈥檚 72-watt wall charger, the Premium Pro Fast Charge, I can power a laptop and phone simultaneously from one outlet. The only bummer? The power bank鈥檚 18 watts can鈥檛 bring a laptop back to life. For that I rely on BioLite鈥檚 Charge 100 Max, which stores 25,000 milliampere-hours, puts out 100 watts, and is designed with five ports and a wireless charging deck. 鈥擳.N.

The BioLite Charge 100 Max rests atop a towel. It charges the author's laptop when he's on long outdoor trips.
The BioLite Charge 100 Max is the author鈥檚 answer to power for many or more powerful devices that need regular juice on outdoor adventures. (Photo: Courtesy Tim Neville)

听听

馃槧The Problem: Your devices鈥 countless cords and cables aren鈥檛 organized
馃挮The Solution: GoTubbs

A circular cord-carrying case by GoTubbs
This soft GoTubbs case can be easily popped open with one hand by squeezing it, a great hack when your other hand is holding a device. (Photo: Courtesy Tim Neville)

One of the last things I used to pack, because I hated it so much, were all the cords, adapters, and wall chargers required to travel with my laptop, Kindle, phone, voice recorder, and watch. What a mess and hassle. I鈥檇 rather untangle spaghetti.

But I鈥檝e been turned on to plastic containers from Humangear called GoTubbs. Each is circular and transparent, with a fantastic, deep-sided lid that I can squeeze open with one hand. Marketing pictures showed them holding snacks and vitamins, but I saw their true calling instantly: here were the perfect containers for my gadgets鈥 power cords, chargers, batteries. And today I keep these containers in鈥攜ou guessed it鈥攁 packing cube.

For something more purpose-built, Eagle Creek recently redesigned its E-Tools Organizer Pro, which combines sleeves with zippered pockets in a clamshell design. Incase has a Nylon Accessory Organizer ($50) with thoughtful features like elastic rings to hold your wall chargers. Both are great and light-years better than rubber bands or a Ziploc. 鈥擳.N.听

听听

馃槧听The Problem: You can鈥檛 sleep in trains, planes, and automobiles
馃挮听The听Solution: Earphones (or buds) and Background or Sleep Sounds

A woman wearing earpods sleeps on what appears to be a busy, with her head tilted toward the window.
Jet engines, chattering crowds, and children crying are no match for a your choice of ear buds and some white noise piped in via your cell phone. (Photo: Maskot/Getty)

I can doze off anywhere, even as a six-foot-seven giraffe shoehorned into economy. I just need the right tools to help it happen. For years my sleep kit was little more than a neck pillow, ear plugs, and a free eye mask I scored on an upgrade. But now I use AirPod Pro 2鈥檚 and my iPhone for a trick I鈥檓 about to recommend that keeps me sleeping soundly on anything that moves.

First, find the feature called Background Sounds that鈥檚 embedded in any iPhone running iOS 15 or newer. Android phones have . (A quick web search will help you find where, or whether, this feature is located on your phone.) These are basically white-noise machines that provide various pleasing sounds that also mask or absorb any distracting sounds that can make sleep tough.

Once activated, you can choose from eight sounds on an iPhone that range from 鈥渂right noise鈥 to 鈥渄ark noise,鈥 as well as natural tracks like the ocean, rain, a stream, and night. Android users can access three sounds or anything from Spotify. Set up with this soothing tool of modern technology piped into my AirPod and I鈥檓 out before takeoff. 鈥擳.N.

馃槧听The Problem: You鈥檙e nervous the airlines will lose your checked luggage (it happens!)
馃挮听The Solution: AirTags

An image of Apple鈥檚 AirTag
Apple鈥檚 AirTag, placed in a checked bag, means you can keep your eyes on its whereabouts. (Photo: James D. Morgan/Getty)

These discrete trackers felt a little creepy to me when they first came out, despite their practical benefits when it came to finding lost keys and bags. But my editors suggested I try them, and I admit to being won over on a recent trip to Africa. I put an AirTag inside a checked bag, launched the Find My app native to iPhones, and watched with glee as it made its way between planes during layovers and eventually to baggage claim. While airlines like United have an app that allows you to track a checked bag each time a handler scans its tag, it isn鈥檛 always clear what鈥檚 happening. With an AirTag, however, I could see exactly what was going on鈥攁nd with a weekslong trip ahead of me, that reassurance was very valuable. 鈥擳.N.

Website and App Hacks

馃槧听The Problem: You want to tip your guide after a tour, but you lack local currency or access to an ATM
馃挮听The Solution: Bepo

A man holds out several bills of Polish currency.
Tipping can be tricky, but the new app Bepo takes cash out of the equation. (Photo: Ligora/Getty)

If you鈥檝e ever hired a guide, perhaps to help you climb a mountain, ski to a backcountry hut, or paddle down a remote stretch of river, you know it鈥檚 common practice to give them a gratuity at the end of your trip. American guides are usually happy to accept a Venmo payment as thanks, but internationally, there hasn鈥檛 been an easy way to tip guides without getting cash in their local currency. Which often means you wind up struggling to find an ATM, then carrying around a wad of cash.

But I recently discovered , started by a travel-loving entrepreneur named Ian Sweeney in 2022 to offer seamless digital tips to service workers and guides. You can transfer funds via credit card, Apple Pay, PayPal, or Venmo (Bepo charges a 1 percent fee on all transactions), and the person you鈥檙e tipping can cash out directly into their own Bepo account.

The site is growing 15 percent each month in the U.S. and Canada, and Bepo intends to expand globally in 2025. Best of all, you don鈥檛 have to download yet another app; just head to the website, create a free profile, and then scan your guide鈥檚 QR code to make a secure payment via whatever method suits you best. Tipping has never been so simple. 鈥擬egan Michelson

馃槧听The Problem: You鈥檝e been camping or road-tripping for days and need a few hours to recharge with hotel amenities
馃挮听The Solution: A daycation with ResortPass

The Pasadena Hotel and Pool, in Southern California, is one of numerous places on the ResortPass
In mid-October, you could pay $38 per person via ResortPass to access the rooftop pool at the Pasadena Hotel in Southern California. The rate includes free Wi-Fi, lounge chairs, and towel service. (Photo: Courtesy Pasadena Hotel and Pool)

When you鈥檙e traveling, access to a few nice amenities can make all the difference, be it fast Wi-Fi and a comfortable place to check email, a gym and showers, a hot tub to soak in and relax, or laundry facilities. Basically, if you could just check into a hotel for a few hours and use their perks, life would be golden. That鈥檚 the idea behind , which offers day use to over 1,600 properties across the U.S., Mexico, Canada, and the Caribbean for as little as $25. No membership fees are required; instead, just purchase a day pass the day you need it. Properties include everything from urban hotels to far-flung resorts. Some passes come with upgrade options like spa treatments, access to the fitness center, or poolside cabanas and water parks.

While on a long-haul camping trip through the Pacific Northwest with my kids last summer, I bought a day pass to a hotel in Bend, Oregon, just to get access to a swimming pool and a shower. The听total price for three of us was, incredibly, just $35. We spent the afternoon living like high-end hotel guests鈥攐rdering food and drinks poolside and using fancy shampoos and fluffy towels in the spa鈥攂efore returning to our campsite that night. 鈥擬.M.

馃槧听The Problem: Taking melatonin or eating a big breakfast upon arrival have failed to cure you of jet lag
馃挮听The Solution: FlyKitt

Travel writer Tim Neville takes a selfie of himself at the Newark airport wearing two sets of glasses; one is a tinted pair used as part of the FlyKitt protocol to help prevent jet lag.
Why is this travel writer wearing two sets of glasses? One pair are part of the FlyKitt protocol to prevent jet lag. (Photo: Courtesy Tim Neville)

The best way to beat jet lag is to not get it at all, but for most travelers who fly, that鈥檚 usually not possible. Or is it?

Fount, a human-performance R&D company, purports to have discovered a way to make jet lag 鈥渁 choice.鈥 To make the right one, you need FlyKitt, a system that will have you听 wearing blue-light filtering glasses, eating supplements, taking naps, and drinking coffee and electrolytes, all at specific times generated by a free app.

Curious, I ordered one for an upcoming trip from my home in Oregon to South Africa. The pouch, the size of a toiletry bag, included everything I鈥檇 need for one round-trip journey. I plugged my flight info into the app, and a rather intense routine was laid out for me: starting with the morning of my first flight, I had to consume more than 20 capsules of things like tart cherry powder, vitamin C, magnesium, and omega-3 fatty acids over the course of the next 24 hours. I鈥檇 take the last pill the day after I arrived in Johannesburg, nine time zones ahead of home.

The results were shocking鈥攁nd I say that as someone who has tried all kinds of jet-lag remedies. I had one 15-minute spell of grogginess after arriving in Johannesburg. But upon my return to the U.S., I had zero jet lag. It was as if I鈥檇 never left. Typically, I鈥檓 wrecked for days, both ways.

Others have tried FlyKitt without success. One reviewer for The Points Guy felt silly wearing the light-filtering glasses in public and skipped that part and also didn鈥檛 take all of the supplements. However, another reporter, from the Seattle Times, tried it out and had the same results as I did. I worried that consuming 41,667 percent of vitamin B12鈥檚 daily value might upset my stomach, but it didn鈥檛鈥攁nd a doctor later reassured me that this dose isn鈥檛 dangerous鈥攕o I stuck to the routine. I certainly plan to use FlyKitt again. 鈥擳.N.

馃槧听The Problem: Getting an infection in a remote place, days or miles from medical help
馃挮听The Solution: Carry amoxicillin

A box of amoxicillin
Amoxicillin is an antibiotic used to treat bacterial infections. (Photo: Clubfoto/Getty)

In general, I鈥檝e never needed antibiotics, but there was a time that my kid did, and I didn鈥檛 have them. I鈥檓 not doing that again. Once, on a three-day float trip down 翱谤别驳辞苍鈥檚 remote John Day River with family and friends, my 11-year-old curled up in the bow and went to sleep for the entire morning. This was worrisome. She loved river trips and typically wanted to spend every minute kayaking.

That afternoon, pain set in. She complained that it felt like an ice pick was chiseling away at her skull below one eye and above her teeth. My wife and I pumped her full of Tylenol and Ibuprofen, but nothing helped. Then her face began to swell.

I鈥檓 deeply wary of using any medicine willy-nilly, and I鈥檓 no doctor, but I knew she needed antibiotics. Decades before, on a remote island in the Philippines, I鈥檇 languished for a week with a ruptured eardrum that was horrifically infected. That could have been avoided with antibiotics. And fortunately for travelers, in many countries, you can walk into a pharmacy, explain your symptoms, and walk out with what you need. But occasionally, we find ourselves seriously sick in remote locations and in need of powerful medicine, like my daughter that day on the river.

We eventually got her to a hospital, where she was diagnosed with a tooth abscess. She鈥檇 need a root canal, but amoxicillin cut the pain quickly. And that鈥檚 why I never travel without it now. For antibiotics in the U.S., you鈥檒l need a doctor鈥檚 prescription, so I suggest making an appointment ahead of time if you know you鈥檒l be somewhere remote and are concerned about medical resources in that area and no better recourse. In my experience, it鈥檚 worth asking for more than you鈥檒l need to keep stashed in your Dopp kit. 鈥擳.N.

Kids Entertainment Hacks

馃槧听The Problem: You’re road-tripping with the kids and want them to enjoy the scenery without screens
馃挮听The Solution: Play just the audio of their favorite film

Two kids sitting in the back of a car smiling while their parents look back, too.
Keep the imagination going strong on a road trip. With this hack, kids can look out the window at the scenery and still stay engaged for hours. (Photo: FatCamera/Getty)

Playing movies on road trips has become a staple in my family. But not watching them鈥listening to them. When my daughter was really young, this kept her entertained, and my wife and I loved how it stoked her imagination without a screen. The trick was to download a favorite film, like Puss in Boots, Kung Fu Panda, or. Penguins of Madagascar. Because she鈥檇 already seen it a million times, she could picture it entirely by sound: That鈥檚 Rico eating the snow globes. That鈥檚 the penguins bouncing in the bouncy house. Other forgettable sounds became hysterical, like a chicken clucking after Kevin Hart鈥檚 character explodes in Jumanji.

This hack isn鈥檛 just for kids. I use it myself on long drives at night when I鈥檓 tired of podcasts. A favorite? Interview with a Vampire. The gurgling, slurping sounds; Brad Pitt鈥檚 breathiness; and Christian Slater鈥檚 nasalness are all so bad it鈥檚 incomparably great鈥攎aybe even better than watching it on screen. 鈥擳.N.

Airline Hacks

馃槧听The Problem: Your flight is delayed or you have a general complaint听about your carrier鈥檚 service
馃挮听The Solution: Pipe up when things go wrong鈥攊t often pays off

A United I鈥檓-Sorry card shows the flight information and a hand-written note from the captain to the passenger.
When a United flight was delayed earlier this year, our travel writer was presented with a card that included details of the delay in case she wanted to file a complaint with its customer-care department. (Photo: Courtesy Jen Murphy)

Over the past year, airfare has , but airline reliability has plummeted. According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, of domestic flights were delayed or canceled in the first half of 2024. Only 50 percent of the 63 flights I鈥檝e taken this year left on schedule. What鈥檚 your recourse?

First, know your rights: the Department of Transportation posts a listing the services or amenities domestic airlines promise clients affected by delays and cancellations. Armed with this information, you can then reach out to a representative of your air carrier and ask for compensation. It鈥檚 worth noting that every major U.S. carrier offers meal vouchers for delays of three hours or more (talk to your gate agent). Alaska, JetBlue, and Southwest provide a travel credit or voucher for a delay of more than three hours. Only Alaska, however, promises frequent-flier miles in addition to a travel credit.

Things should improve in the next five years, thanks to a new federal regulation requiring airlines to refund customers, or offer credits that last up to five years, for flight delays greater than听 three hours for domestic travel and six hours for international trips. Until then, a quick email complaint can go a long way, I鈥檝e found, particularly with United Airlines. It takes less than three minutes to fill out and submit a grievance, whether it鈥檚 a delay or annoying hiccups like a broken seat that won鈥檛 recline or spotty Wi-Fi. Nine times out of ten, I receive some type of compensation; in fact, last year I was awarded close to 20,000 miles, earned nearly $2,500 in I鈥檓-sorry vouchers, and was even refunded the $8 I spent on faulty Wi-Fi. I appreciate this service. It takes some of the sting out of plans gone awry 鈥擩.M.

馃槧 The Problem: You want to travel with your own bicycle but don鈥檛 want to pay hundreds to check it
馃挮听The Solution: Choose an airline that lets your bike fly free

A man disassembles his bicycle to pack into a case for plane travel.
Shipping your bicycle can cost hundreds of dollars鈥攐n top of the expense of a suitable case to get it to your destination. Wouldn’t it be nice to ship it for free? Turns out you can. (Photo: AscentXmedia/Getty)

Airlines have mutilated a number of my surfboards, so I鈥檝e never been willing to gamble on flying with my much pricier road bike. I鈥檓 far from a pro, and rentals are way better than they used to be; plus, I like to support local bike shops. But I know that serious cyclists suffer separation anxiety鈥攁nd for you I have intel.

If you don鈥檛 want to be charged an oversizeoverweight fee of upward of $200, you need to make sure your rig and its box weigh 50 pounds or less and are smaller than 80 inches. A nice carbon road bike tends to weigh between 17 and 20 pounds. Factor in a light case and remove the front wheel, and you can just make the cut.

But the airline beloved by many cyclists bringing bikes is Southwest. It鈥檚 the only domestic airline that grants two free checked bags, regardless of loyalty status. If your bike meets the proper dimensions (62 inches or less and less than 50 pounds), it鈥檚 counted as a free checked bag.

It鈥檚 also worth considering Delta and United if you have status with those airlines. On Delta, those with Medallion status or Delta Amex cardholders can check a bicycle for free if it meets dimensions (62 linear inches) and it鈥檚 the sole piece of checked luggage. On United, status members are granted an extra 20 pounds per checked bag, which can make a difference if you鈥檝e sprung for a hard-shell case to keep your beloved bike free from dings. 鈥擩.M.

Tim Neville and Megan Michelson are 国产吃瓜黑料 contributing editors, and Jen Murphy is a longtime 国产吃瓜黑料 correspondent. All spend weeks of the year traveling around the country and abroad and reporting back to us. Neville recently recounted his scary multi-night stay in a dark cave in Oregon, Michelson rounded up the best outdoor festivals, and Murphy wrote about the countless ways to explore Costa Rica.听

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The Darkness That Blew My Mind /adventure-travel/essays/dark-cave-retreat/ Tue, 26 Mar 2024 09:00:41 +0000 /?p=2662661 The Darkness That Blew My Mind

Embarking on four days of total blackout, inside the sensory equivalent of a tomb, our writer went on a dark-cave retreat, the same one as quarterback Aaron Rodgers

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The Darkness That Blew My Mind

The darkness has a name, but I don鈥檛 know that yet. All I know is that I鈥檓 scared.

I鈥檓 sitting with my feet in a creek in the scrubby mountains southeast of Ashland, Oregon, watching how the water spills over gray rocks into a shallow pool. All day long, I鈥檝e been alone and unplugged, doing my best to savor moments like this one. I note how the sunlight filters through the black oaks and flickers in the water like coins in a fountain. Colors get special attention: the denim-blue lupines, the amber grass, and the plum-colored mountains around me. I squirrel these images away to return to later, like nuts before winter.

A forgettable dirt road follows the creek out of Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument, which surrounds this place, but that鈥檚 as much as I鈥檒l say about the location. A lot of famous people keen on their privacy come up this way, but even plebs like me are welcome. Once you鈥檙e here, you have to become no one anyway. In a metaphorical sense, which doesn鈥檛 feel metaphorical at all, you must be ready to be buried alive.

I walk slowly, deliberately, uphill to a small clearing ringed by aspen and oak. The anxiety that鈥檚 been ricing my lungs turns steely and sharp when I see a pale wooden door built into a hillside, framed by lava rock. It looks like the entrance to Bilbo Baggins鈥檚 house. I go in. A stairway tumbles down to a windowless, 300-square-foot room with textured walls, a bathroom, and a wooden bed that smells like sage. A single low-wattage bulb hums faintly overhead. It鈥檚 controlled by a switch covered with a hard plastic guard, which makes it difficult to turn off and on. That鈥檚 the point.

This room and two others like it in these secret woodlands are the heart of what might be the country鈥檚 only established commercial dark retreat. This is a spiritual place, where visitors pay good money to spend long periods of time in crypt-like blackness, devoid of all light and most sounds, in an attempt to uncage their minds and, they hope, discover something deeper within. I鈥檓 here to give it a shot, but the mere thought has left my hands clammy and my breathing pinched. I flip the switch to see just how dark the dark is, and terror presses into me like 13,000 vertical feet of seawater. I implode and race outside, gasping.

All humans know the feeling. This isn鈥檛 the dark of the inside of a tent on a moonless night, when the forest sways in purple starlight, nor is it a creepy basement where a thin ribbon of light can weasel under the door. You can feel this kind of dark at a place like Carlsbad Caverns, where 830 feet under the New Mexican desert, the rangers turn off the lights and let the children scream. It鈥檚 the kind that triggers some atavistic line of code that sends your amygdala rag-dolling over evolution鈥檚 awful ledges. How can I survive this? How can I escape it? And the worst: What else is in here, and is it hungry?

Evening comes. Time to be brave. I take one last look around outside and gather a few more nuts. A mountain chickadee twitters about. Deer slip through the grass. I go inside and seal myself into the room with a few necessities I鈥檒l be able to locate by touch. A toothbrush. A Hydro Flask. A gray cotton onesie my wife got me for Christmas, because of the way it feels and smells鈥攖wo senses the dark can鈥檛 steal. I light a small candle and turn off the overhead light, hoping to feel a sense of control for one last minute.

You can do this.

I blow out the candle and swallow the panic as the enormity of the situation settles in. My eyes will never adjust to this. Today is Sunday. It鈥檒l be Thursday before I see a single photon again. That鈥檚 82 hours, alone, in the absolute absence of light.

I can鈥檛 think about any of that now. Instead, I go to bed early and pretend everything is all right. But it isn鈥檛. Things are about to get really, really weird.

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Swarovski鈥檚 AI-Powered Binoculars Tell You What You’re Looking At /outdoor-gear/tools/swarovskis-ai-powered-binoculars-tell-you-what-youre-looking-at/ Thu, 11 Jan 2024 14:00:23 +0000 /?p=2657349 Swarovski鈥檚 AI-Powered Binoculars Tell You What You're Looking At

Swarovski Optik just unveiled the world鈥檚 first set of smart binoculars. Our correspondent got to test them, and the results are groundbreaking.

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Swarovski鈥檚 AI-Powered Binoculars Tell You What You're Looking At

It was late fall, the Texas sun sufficiently merciful, and I was standing on a wood platform overlooking the humid, green core of Hazel Bazemore Park on the western outskirts of Corpus Christi. Though forgettable by most metrics, this 87-acre swatch of honey mesquite and lowland grasses ranks as one of the country鈥檚 richest and most diverse places to see migrating raptors. Three North American flyways converge here and by the time I鈥檇 arrived in early November, more than 1.2 million broad-winged hawks, turkey vultures, Mississippi kites, kestrels, and more had passed through, a record number for the second year in a row.

The park was a fitting testing ground for some super cool tech aimed largely at birders, still one of the of outdoor enthusiasts. I joined about a dozen of the country鈥檚 more influential bird nerds鈥攅ach of us armed with a pair of the , the most advanced set of binoculars in the world. , the Austria-based offshoot of the larger, highly secretive, luxury crystal brand, Swarovski, would not introduce them to the world until Jan. 9, 2024, and as such we were asked not to let other birders see them up close. That鈥檚 because the AX Visio can do what no other binocular or scope in the world on the consumer market today can do: tell you what you鈥檙e looking at, instantly, at least when it comes to virtually every known bird on the planet. The binos can also identify hundreds of species of mammals, and soon, butterflies and dragonflies. And that’s just the start.

鈥淚f you have a database on wildflowers or mushrooms or stars or whatever, we can train the system to identify them,鈥 Ben Lizdas, Swarovski Optik鈥檚 business development manager. 鈥淭he idea is absolutely for developers to be able to contribute to this. It鈥檚 limitless.鈥

The identification feat alone is groundbreaking, but so are the other tasks that the smart binoculars can handle. The AX Visio has a tagging feature that allows you to drop a pin on a certain subject or location, like a mountain goat on a distant ridge. Hand the glass to a friend and a reticle in your field of vision will direct the viewer to the exact spot you just pinned. Paired with a smartphone app, the binoculars can also stream a live feed to up to four other devices at a time (though they need to be within about ten feet of each other), so everyone on safari can watch the jaguar eat. The display projected directly into the viewfinder can also show a digital compass offering both cardinal directions and azimuth angles. It has an onboard camera, a GPS, and Bluetooth capabilities for firmware updates and app connectivity. To function fully, it needs no signal from anything whatsoever.

Of course, Swarovski optics aren鈥檛 cheap, think $3,000 or more, and neither is the AX Visio. With an MSRP at about $5,330, they are not for everyone. But after three days of playing with them in Texas, followed by another two weeks around my home in Oregon, I can say they鈥檙e a blast, intuitive, and offer all sorts of implications for birders, hunters, guides, travelers, and those who just like to navigate the natural world by name. 鈥淚 think there are applications that we can鈥檛 even imagine yet,鈥 says Janet Moler, a manager with Portland (Oregon) Audubon. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 recall anything on the market even close to this.鈥

At the moment, in Texas, I trained the glass on a flamboyant yellow bird with a sky blue head and a black throat that had materialized as if out of a Walt Disney film. I鈥檇 never seen a bird like it. The words 鈥淕reen Jay鈥 illuminated in a simple, unobtrusive orange font almost instantly along the bottom of the hyper crisp image. Suddenly I could appreciate this park a little more.

Swarovski’s AX Visio binoculars (Photo: Courtesy Swarovsky)

The Swarovski AX Visio Binoculars Basics

The AX Visio (a riff on something like 鈥渁ugmented-experience vision鈥) looks like a chunkier, more militaristic set of binoculars with 10×32 lenses, which, like all optics, translates to 鈥渉ow big by how bright;鈥 In the AX Visio鈥檚 case, 10x magnification with 32 millimeter objective lenses. That鈥檚 enough glass to collect sufficient light for most outdoorsy applications, though a little under-gunned for dimmer conditions, like in the thick of a rainforest.

Like all of Swarovski鈥檚 optics, the lenses are crafted to nanometer precision. But the real magic lies with a fiercely guarded mix of light-altering chemical coatings applied in as many as 50 layers to enhance clarity and contrast. So secret is the recipe for these coatings that Swarovski has opted not to patent them, a protection that would require the company to divulge its materials and methods. Better to let the competition spend the time and money trying to reverse engineer it all with lasers and gas spectrometers than to spell it out in a patent, or so the thinking goes.

Some of the experts on this trip, most of whom are on the front line of the birding world as dealers who sell optics to other birders, said they could see birders wanting a brighter lens, say 42 mm, but the smaller 32 mm glass saves on weight. That was necessary because a third optical barrel sits under the bridge linking the other two barrels near the focus wheel. This third barrel houses a 13 megapixel camera with a fixed 2.2 f-stop (and maximum exposure time of 1/125) that鈥檚 capable of shooting HD video at 30 to 60 frames per second. Figuring out how to pair a camera with the binoculars was key to the whole 鈥渟mart鈥 process.

鈥淧eople have tried to put cameras in binoculars before, but the technology was changing so fast that by the time it came out it was already obsolete,鈥 says Daniel Nindl, the company鈥檚 head of product management. Now the components are so small and the processors so robust that Swarovski Optik, which first began toying with smart binocular designs about a decade ago, felt confident enough to move into prototype stages about six years ago. In the end, engineers packed the AX Visio with 37 lenses, eight prisms, and nine electronic boards powered by a removable, rechargeable lithium battery pack. Combined with the 390 individual parts (think sensors, a gyroscope, magnetometer, accelerometer and more) all housed in a forest-green, IP68-rated moisture- and dust-tight body, the unit is about three pounds. Though it鈥檚 a bit of a beast, it feels great in your hands.

How Does The AI-Generated Identification Work?

The ID feature is well worth the heavy weight, especially when you consider some of the alternatives. I got into birding the way many others did during the pandemic, when I happened to look out my window to find a delightful little guy with a body as yellow as an Easter Peep sporting a jaunty black patch atop his tiny birdy crown. I went full analog and hauled out a dusty copy of , eventually landing on page 825, a Wilson鈥檚 warbler.

Though I鈥檓 not a serious birder, I鈥檝e learned a few very basic tricks that make identifying birds so much easier than that, namely the free Merlin Bird ID app. Merlin is a 鈥渕achine learning -powered bird ID tool鈥 put out by the avian gods themselves at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology at Cornell University. I take a picture of a mystery bird with my smartphone, record its song or enter its description, and Merlin will spit out a list of species possibilities. I use it almost every day just walking the dog.

This app, or rather the research and database behind it, forms the muscle behind the AX Visio鈥檚 ability to identify birds. Swarovski Optik obtained the rights to use the data and then figured out how to pack the hardware and software into binoculars that could make sense of it. The system includes a processor similar to one in your phone that powers an algorithm using a 鈥渘eural processing unit鈥 based on the Merlin app. In short, artificial intelligence.

What鈥檚 truly amazing is the sheer size of the bird reference library that the AX Visio鈥檚 AI can tap. On your phone, the Merlin app is so data-heavy with photos and sound bites that you have to pick and choose which 鈥渂ird packs鈥 to install based on your geographic location. Those packs narrow down the realm of possible birds to those the user is most likely to see in that particular area. For example, that鈥檚 717 birds for 鈥淯.S. and Canada: Continental鈥 and 810 birds for 鈥淐osta Rica.鈥 The AX Visio, meanwhile, can only identify birds by 鈥渟ight.鈥 That data set consumes less storage space than the full Merlin app and allows the binoculars to have an on-board reference library that essentially includes every bird from every bird pack鈥攔oughly 8,000 birds total. The processor needs no connectivity to access it. That means it can identify a satyr tragopan in a remote rhododendron forest in Bhutan as easily as a mourning dove in New York City.

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Understanding how this all unfolds is material for a graduate degree, but as a user, it couldn鈥檛 be more simple. To identify the green jay, I powered the unit on, waited for it to lock in a GPS signal, and turned the 鈥渕ode wheel鈥 to the bird ID function. Looking through the viewfinder, which included adjustable eyecups I could dial in to fit my sunglasses, a reticle appeared in the shape of a circle cut into four equal, curved segments. The more the bird can fill that circle, the higher the confidence in the AI result. Holding the binoculars naturally, you can toggle the size of the circle by depressing a button using a right forefinger.

A second, adjacent button acts like a shutter release on a camera. Once I had the jay lined up in my sights, I depressed the second button halfway, and the unit鈥檚 autofocus took over. Depressing it the rest of the way, the unit took a picture that was automatically uploaded to my paired iPhone 12 and then produced an ID readable directly in the viewfinder. All four segments of the circle had grown thicker, like a font in bold, signaling a high-confidence result. The fewer segments in bold: the lower the AI鈥檚 confidence in its result.

The system isn鈥檛 perfect. The unit couldn鈥檛 decide if a seagull was a laughing gull or a Franklin鈥檚 gull鈥攊t kept alternating between the two each time I hit the release. Ideally, the viewfinder needs to be filled with 224 x 224 pixels, though the minimum it needs is 100 x 100. Other times, it tested my own limitations. A hummingbird showed up and it was difficult to get a clear, stable shot of it that filled the circle. I tried anyway and the unit said it couldn鈥檛 recognize it or it wasn鈥檛 in focus. When I did get a decent shot of the bird face-on, the AI thought it was an Allen鈥檚 hummingbird when the birders all knew it was actually a Rufous. The differences between the two are difficult for beginners to distinguish and boil down to the shape of the tail feathers.

鈥淭o be fair,鈥 said Clay Taylor, a naturalist who joined Swarovski Optik in 1999 as the division鈥檚 first in-house bird specialist, 鈥渆ven (famed ornithologist) David Sibley would need to see its back before he could tell you what it is.鈥

Other times I was shocked the AI could make sense of what I fed it at all. A raptor rocketed by and I fired off a sloppy shot. The unit called it a northern harrier, correctly. In the most comical, extreme example, perhaps, a bird never seen anywhere north of Panama suddenly showed up in downtown Corpus Christi, having likely hitched a ride on one of the many ships that come into port鈥攁 vagrant in birder-speak. The AI must have overridden what its own GPS said it couldn鈥檛 possibly be (or perhaps the unit couldn鈥檛 lock in a solid GPS signal among the buildings) and identified it as a cattle tyrant, a fly-eating fiend with a yellow breast and olive-brown back that had found an endless feast in a blue downtown dumpster. Soon hundreds of people from all over the country had gathered around this greasy trashcan to catch a glimpse.

Additional Features

I played with the other functions over the next few weeks. The location tagging setting led me right to a vermillion flycatcher a friend had spotted on a fence. Another time, I put it on mammal mode and drew a bead on a shih tzu walking down the beach, but all it could say was 鈥渄og.鈥 One day, for giggles, I pointed it at my teenage daughter. 鈥淗uman,鈥 it said, though the state of her habitat would suggest otherwise.

I wondered if hardcore birders who already know hundreds of species by heart would have a need for something like this, and the answer is maybe. 鈥淲e can all go someplace new and be totally lost,鈥 says Diane Porter, co-founder of . Moler of Portland Audubon agrees: 鈥淭here were many birds in Texas it identified when I didn鈥檛 have a clue,鈥 she says. Having a pair to share among a group seems ideal, like an outfitter that equips its trip leaders and guides with a set to help clients see an owlet in the redwoods or a lion snoozing in the shade.

I shot a video of one egret bullying another in a pond and took pictures of distant buildings with architectural features I thought were cool, which was easy since I didn鈥檛 have to put down the binoculars and take out my phone or a camera. Though I enjoyed the photo function, it still can鈥檛 compete against a dedicated camera with, say, a 600 millimeter lens. 鈥淣o way will it replace my big camera,鈥 Porter says.

The most exciting features, however, may be the ones to come. The mode wheel already includes two empty slots ready to be claimed by future functions (which will also be open to third party developers). Perhaps one day one will go to the names and elevations of distant peaks or even climbing routes to the top. Maybe plane spotters will find a way to use it. In the meantime, there鈥檚 no doubt they鈥檙e game changers for many.

Personally, I鈥檇 kill to own a pair for the sheer amount of joy I got out of the Genesis-like gift of being able to give names to these delicate, gorgeous marvels of the world, and for the way that knowledge enriched my time in Texas, expanding doors and introducing me to others. (Like those 1.2 million raptors spotted at a tiny park for starters.)

鈥淚t鈥檚 a revolutionary product,鈥 Moler says. 鈥淣ow when a person walks in and says, for that price, those binoculars should identify the bird for you, I can say, they do.鈥

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13 Unique and Fun Winter Trips to Plan Now /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/fun-winter-trips/ Tue, 20 Dec 2022 12:00:36 +0000 /?p=2614486 13 Unique and Fun Winter Trips to Plan Now

Winter opens up endless adventure opportunities. And there鈥檚 no time to hibernate, because it鈥檒l be gone before you know it. Here are 13 unique and fun adventures, from backcountry lodges to fat biking to the world's longest ice skating path.

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13 Unique and Fun Winter Trips to Plan Now

1. Stay at a Cozy 国产吃瓜黑料 Base Camp

The in Hillsdale, New York, about two and a half hours from Manhattan and Boston, opened in August with 14 rooms that blend 1950s Berkshires ski culture with the feel of a Swiss chalet (from $345). The lodge is set at the foot of the Catamount Mountain Resort, one of the country鈥檚 oldest ski areas, which has 1,000 feet of vertical and 43 trails, including the steepest run in the Berkshires. Back at the lodge, relax in a barrel sauna before dinner at the Tavern, where a James Beard Award鈥搉ominated chef is at the helm.

Farther south, in Pennsylvania鈥檚 Pocono Mountains, the keeps things cozy with 25 tiny homes tucked in 20 acres of snowy deciduous forest (from $320). A sauna, hot tub, and fire pits are on site, and it鈥檚 a ten-minute drive to the slopes of Jack Frost and Big Boulder, where you can night-ski and use your Epic Pass.

In the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains, in North Carolina, the town of Boone is a great jumping-off point for cross-country skiing around 6,285-foot Roan Mountain or downhilling at Sugar Mountain and Appalachian Ski Mountain. Get a suite at the 15-room , a boutique hotel (from $280) in downtown Boone.

Or head north (way north) to the Charlevoix region of Quebec on the Saint Lawrence River, a mini North American Norway, with stunning fjords and dense woodlands. Stay right in the middle of it all in the Laurentian Mountains at , a collection of walk-in geodesic huts (see image above) with private hot tubs, fireplaces, and fully equipped kitchens (from $350). Fifteen minutes away, the ski area has just over 2,500 feet of vertical drop, the most east of the Canadian Rockies.

2. Ride the Winter Trains

In Switzerland, most everyone takes the train to the ski mountain. There are a few locomotive options on this side of the pond, too. The from Denver to Colorado鈥檚 third-largest ski area is back this season. Trains with baggage compartments for skis and boards leave Denver鈥檚 Union Station every Friday through Sunday, January through April, starting at 7 a.m. During the two-hour trip ($29 each way), you鈥檒l roll through 31 tunnels and view the Continental Divide. Returning trains depart Winter Park at 4:30 P.m. Even cooler, if you time your flights right, you can hop the A Line train鈥攚ith commuter service between Denver International Airport and Union Station鈥攁nd skip the rental car.

For a more vintage vibe, board the Mount Washington Cog Railway, which has been chugging up the flanks of New Hampshire鈥檚 tallest, worst-weathered peak since 1869. The three-mile journey to the 6,289-foot summit is unavailable in winter鈥200-mile-per-hour winds, anyone?鈥攂ut you can ride up to Waumbek Station, at about 4,000 feet. There you disembark to warm up with hot drinks and cog-shaped sugar cookies by a fire pit. The ski descent drops 1,300 vertical feet on an easy-to-intermediate trail beside the tracks.

Yet another train trip to experience national parks in the winter is , which runs from Chicago to Seattle and south to Portland, passing within a snowball鈥檚 distance of Glacier National Park. Book yourself on Vacations by Rail鈥檚 nine-day ($3,600) and you鈥檒l stay at Glacier鈥檚 Lake McDonald Lodge for hikes around the lake, stop for a snow-coach outing to spot bison in Yellowstone, and go cross-country skiing in Jackson, Wyoming.

3. Ice Skate On Forever

Almost 200 years ago, a British Royal Engineer completed one of the greatest transportation projects in the world, a 126-mile waterway between Ottawa and Kingston, Ontario, called the Rideau Canal. In winter, a portion of the canal becomes something even cooler: the world鈥檚 longest ice-skating path. It鈥檚 up to Mother Nature when the 4.8-mile opens鈥擩anuary is always a good bet鈥攂ut when it does, you can glide through the heart of downtown Ottawa. Rent skates at one of three locations along the route, or stay at the Westin Ottawa, which offers skating packages. From there you can push past warming huts that serve hot chocolate and BeaverTail pastries topped with cinnamon and sugar.

Meanwhile, in the U.S., some kids in Warroad, Minnesota, 250 miles northwest of Duluth, might argue that their five-mile deserves the longest-skateway title. A couple of years ago, when the pandemic closed the two hockey rinks in town, they built a pair of their own on the frozen Warroad River. Their parents then cleared a path between the rinks, and the route took off. Base yourself at the four-room (from $260) and bring your hockey stick for pickup games.

4. Sled Your Heart Out

Sledding isn鈥檛 just for youngins. in Quebec may have the best skiing east of the Canadian Rockies, but what鈥檚 really a hoot is the five-mile sledding trail that whips down 2,703-foot Mont Liguori. A snowcat will take you up 2,620 vertical feet to the entry point. Strap on a helmet and count on taking two hours to get all the way to the bottom, with a pause at one or more of the warming chalets along the way serving hot chicken soup. For an unforgettable twist, do the run at night with a headlamp.

翱谤别驳辞苍鈥檚 , located in Government Camp, across from its 11,240-foot namesake peak, boasts the world鈥檚 only cosmic tubing park, with 600,000 LEDs, black lights, and lasers dancing in trippy bliss across 14 tubing lanes every weekend and holiday evening. Listen to Portland DJs and live music, or go skiing on 34 lit slopes, the most night-skiing terrain in the country. The midmountain offers up toasty bowls of homemade Hungarian goulash.

Midwesterners have it good, too. Ohio鈥檚 biggest ski area, , outside Columbus, turns 60 this year and has two lifts dedicated to tubers sliding about 300 vertical feet down as many as 20 lanes, depending on the conditions.

5. Earn Your (Delicious) Calories

There鈥檚 night skiing, and then there鈥檚 truly unforgettable night skiing. For the latter, you need alpine touring gear, so make this the winter you finally get yours. Then head to for the full moon on January 6, February 7, or March 7, when you can skin approximately 1,800 vertical feet up the Main Buttermilk Route, with shimmering views of Highlands, Pyramid Peak, and the magnificent Maroon Bells ($69 for a season-long uphill ski pass). There, the Cliffhouse restaurant stays open just for adventurers like you, with fire pits, a bar, and 脿 la carte dining options. Fueled up and warm, strap on your headlamp and cruise back down to the base.

Back east, about 200 miles west of Washington, D.C., West Virginia鈥檚 , a 37-trail ski area with 1,500 feet of vertical drop, features backcountry hut dining in a log cabin just two miles up the Cheat Ridge Trail. Snowmobiles whisk your party to the cabin for a gourmet meal. Try the daytime resort skiing, too: with 180 inches per season, Snowshoe gets the most natural snow in the mid-Atlantic.

6. See the Northern Lights

The northern lights appear to be gathering their might this year. What better place to catch the phenomenon than at , a pod of 20 glass-domed igloos on 100 acres of forest 25 miles outside Fairbanks, Alaska (from $1,793 per person). Guests can rent 12-by-32-foot 鈥渃ubes,鈥 each with a full wall of glass on the northeast end for prime viewing. This place fills up fast, so if you can鈥檛 get in, try the , reachable via a half-hour bush-plane flight from Yellowknife, in the Northwest Territories (from $1,500 for three nights). The lodge, which has hot tubs and about four miles of groomed cross-country trails, sits under the auroral oval鈥攖he belt around the magnetic pole鈥攐ffering some of the best panoramas.

7. Check Out This Cool Ski Resort News

One of the more impressive upgrades this winter is at Snowbird, in Utah. The resort, famous for its thigh-burning steeps, plans to unveil two new tram cabins with viewing panels built into the floor and floor-to-ceiling windows for the journey to 11,000 feet. Nearby has a new fixed-grip quad lift and additional terrain.

For the second time ever, , in Montana, will run a guided night-skiing excursion; at sunset you ride the heated seats of the Ramcharger 8 lift (each chair is enveloped in a weatherproof bubble) for a tour of groomed corduroy off 8,800-foot Andesite Mountain.

This season also marks the grand opening of the $65 million, 2.2-mile Base to Base Gondola at California鈥檚 . It will connect the resort鈥檚 Olympic Valley and Alpine Meadows areas. Close by, at Northstar, a high-speed six-pack will replace the Comstock quad, boosting capacity by 50 percent.

In Vermont, and are adding six-person high-speed lifts, and Killington鈥檚 improved K1 Base Lodge will open in November.

In the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, the ski capital of the Midwest, Big Snow Resort is under new ownership and being upgraded and relaunched as , while the state is investing $20 million to renovate the nearby .

8. Explore the Best of the Backcountry

The stretches for 300 miles through some of Vermont鈥檚 most spectacular terrain鈥攁 wild tableau of snowy peaks, chutes, and forest. Amid that territory, one section near , 25 miles east of Burlington, stands out, offering access to some of the best backcountry skiing in New England.

Trail options are almost limitless here, but consider tackling the nine-mile tour linking Bolton Valley with Stowe鈥檚 (founded by the family of The Sound of Music fame), leading through hardwood forests perfectly spaced for tree skiing. When you finally arrive at the lodge, a brat platter with housemade pickles and an Austrian beer await. Bolton Valley offers guides and shuttles as well as backcountry clinics (from $175).

Next door in New Hampshire, the sits at 2,700 feet in Mount Cardigan State Park and serves as a perfect base for a few days of playing around in the snow. The 1938 cabin has one room with six beds (sleeping up to 12 people total), a propane stove, and a woodstove for keeping warm ($169 a night per person). From there you can tour about half a mile to the exposed summit of 3,121-foot Mount Cardigan, or work your way over to Duke鈥檚 Ski Trail off Firescrew Mountain鈥攐ne of Mount Cardigan鈥檚 three summits鈥攆or a run that will drop you close to the , a full-service hut where a hot family-style meal comes with your overnight stay (from $177).

9. Learn Something New, Like, Yep, Snowkiting

Kiteboarding on snow may sound daunting, but it鈥檚 easier to learn than on water. For starters, you use skis, you鈥檙e already standing up, and a gentle breeze will suffice. Book a lesson with in Fitchburg, Wisconsin, on the southern outskirts of Madison.

Or head 230 miles west to Clear Lake, Iowa; on February 18, it hosts the largest kite festival in the Midwest, where you can also book a snowkiting lesson.

Want to try your hand at fat biking on snow? is home to 20 miles of fat-biking and cross-country trails. Rent a rig from the Northstar Cross Country Center and set out solo, or with a guide, on one of eight beginner-friendly routes.

East Coasters can book a guide with , in that New York city鈥檚 Canalside neighborhood鈥攖he only place in the world where you can learn to ice-bike. Picture a bicycle atop a sled with broad, stable runners and a fork with skate-like blades that allow you to turn.

10. Get Festive at These Awesome Events

No winter is complete without a fun festival celebration. For ice climbers, that means heading to Munising, Michigan, about 175 miles north of Green Bay, Wisconsin, for the lively , February 8 to 12. The action happens at along Lake Superior, home to sheer walls and lots of frozen goodness. The festival includes skills clinics and talks from experts.

There鈥檚 also the in Snowmass, Colorado, March 11 and March 18, with a gondola ride up to Elk Camp, where you can watch fire dancers, go snow tubing, eat s鈥檓ores, and sled down the mile-long Breathtaker Alpine Coaster. Dates this season start on December 28, with select nights in January, February, and March, too.

in the Adirondacks of upstate New York goes big with a ten-day, 126-year-old winter carnival; this season it鈥檚 from February 3 to 12. Tour a giant ice palace, enter a nordic ski race, or play softball in your snowshoes.

Meanwhile, there鈥檚 , a music and art blowout. Dance your face off January 19 to February 11 in minus-25-degree cold to sixty-something acts, most of them EDM.

Or head west for the annual at Bally鈥檚 Tahoe on January 7, where you can take in adventure cinematography and mingle with filmmakers and athletes.

11. Ski Utah鈥檚 Famous Champagne

Welcome to , an incredible multi-resort adventure. This ski trip links to and up to four other resorts, all in a day, all on skis鈥攁nd you don鈥檛 even have to skin (though there are some uphill traverses). Hire a guide through Ski Utah and decide how many resorts you would like to ski to. Longer tours include about 25 miles of skiing down 15,000 vertical feet, starting with a lift ride up at Deer Valley and concluding with a run at Snowbird.

In between you鈥檒l ride lifts and work your way over to , through the backcountry to in Big Cottonwood Canyon, and beyond to in Little Cottonwood Canyon, with a last traverse over to Grizzly Gulch. Finally, a shuttle will take you and your tired legs back to Deer Valley, 40 miles away by road. A steeper and deeper option starts and ends at Snowbird and includes a 20-mile loop with 15,000 feet of skiing across Alta, Brighton, and Solitude. There are shorter tours, too, and guides will tailor the day to fit the group. From $475

12. Take a Hut Tour in Maine

offers a four-day, three-night self-guided tour in the Carrabassett Valley, about 100 miles west of Bangor. Four off-the-grid huts are tucked away among the state鈥檚 4,000-foot High Peaks and are anywhere from nine to twelve miles apart, linked by fat-biking and cross-country-skiing trails. Inside each you鈥檒l find a common space, reading areas, a fireplace, and hot showers. The huts sleep up to 48 people, in rooms for two to six (from $90 per person).

On weekends, caretakers with Huts and Trails serve popular home-cooked meals like lasagna. The highlight of the tour comes on day two when you leave the Poplar Hut and roll for about 14 miles above Flagstaff Lake, gliding through hardwood forests to the Flagstaff Hut. At 1,200 feet, it perches on a peninsula jutting into its eponymous lake, with views of 4,150-foot Bigelow Mountain to the southwest.

13. Nordic Ski in the Cascades

奥补蝉丑颈苍驳迟辞苍鈥檚 , some 200 miles northeast of Seattle, runs like a poker deep into the North Cascades, a famed nordic-skiing hub. The more than 120 miles of groomed trails in the Methow wend through fragrant forests, past warming huts, and out to huge-sky vistas. Base yourself at the (doubles from $200) and grab one of its 16 cabins on Patterson Lake, with 35 miles of trails right outside the door.

The lodge rents all the gear you need. Near Chelan, 80 miles south, the Echo Ridge trail system (day passes, $10) runs for 25 miles through the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. Rent skis at , where you can pick up a map. Work out the kinks afterward at YogaChelan; instructors sometimes offer 鈥渟nowga,鈥 if you require still more time outside. Stay at , with 170 waterfront rooms on lovely Lake Chelan (from $114).

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The Last Ride of Legend, a Pony Who Lived Up to His Name /culture/essays-culture/last-ride-chincoteague-pony-legend/ Tue, 04 Oct 2022 10:15:46 +0000 /?p=2602925 The Last Ride of Legend, a Pony Who Lived Up to His Name

Born on an island off the coast of Virginia, home to a wild herd that inspired the classic children鈥檚 novel 鈥楳isty of Chincoteague,鈥 this gentle, blue-eyed gelding enjoyed an adventurous life with a family in New Mexico. After his death, a mother and daughter went on a mission: to lay him to rest amid the sand and the waves.

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The Last Ride of Legend, a Pony Who Lived Up to His Name

A sickle of moon hung in the black Atlantic sky as the four of us began the mile-long walk to the beach. It was shortly before 5 A.M. on the southern reaches听of Assateague Island, off Virginia鈥檚 Eastern Shore, but already a hundred people or more were chasing the cones of their cell-phone lights听across the marshes and dunes of .听Farther south, nearly 15,000 more had gathered in a shorefront parking lot. Blades of grass waved spookily in the glow.

The humidity was like it always is here in summer鈥攈ateful鈥攁nd the mosquitos had their feast. I walked with Mattie Allen, communications director of an in Espa帽ola, New Mexico, and noticed how her curly auburn hair had become a nebula that blotted out the stars. The humidity hairdo had become a running joke, a novelty that underscored how far she and her 13-year-old daughter, Maizie, had traveled to be here. My own daughter, Evie, who is also 13, fell in with Maizie, the two new BFFs hitting it off over middle school and pressures to wear makeup.

Mattie and Maizie, who has her mother鈥檚 hair and talks rapid fire, are both horse people, and they had invited Evie and me to join them for the annual Chincoteague Pony Swim, a weeklong festival held every July on the island of Chincoteague, a splotch of听sand, water, and coastal vegetationthat sits just beyond waterways with names like Mosquito Creek and Mud Bay Gut, three miles off the Virginia portion of Delmarva, the rural tristate peninsula that divides the Chesapeake Bay from the Atlantic.

Chincoteague, which has an average elevation of about 21 inches, is protected from the open ocean by , a 37-mile-long听barrier island that spans the Maryland-Virginia line. Unlike Chincoteague鈥檚 3,000-person urban center鈥攚hich is also called Chincoteague and is known for hotels, vintage beach-house rentals, ice cream shops, and seafood restaurants鈥擜ssateague is feral, an undeveloped mix of windswept terrain, all of it protected as parkland in one form or another, mostly by the federal government. It鈥檚 on Assateague where you鈥檒l find the local celebrities: a fabled herd of wild, salt-grass-eating ponies.

How they got there is听a mystery. The more mundane theories have suggested that pirates or early English settlers left them on the island to forage. The most fantastic and repeated tale holds that, centuries ago, a Spanish ship carrying horses between Spain and its New World colonies wrecked off the coast, and the animals swam ashore and survived. With only nutrient-poor marsh grass to fill their bellies, the horses grew smaller over the generations until they became ponies, meaning a horse that鈥檚 less than 14.2 hands tall鈥攁bout four foot nine. (Some ponies are genetically different from horses, but these are not; they鈥檙e just small.)

As it turns out, that shipwreck tale, long dismissed as a myth, might be true. Archeologists know of at least buried in the seafloor off the coast of Assateague. And this July, a researcher at the University of Florida published that offered DNA evidence closely linking horses brought to the Caribbean island of听Hispaniola from Spain in the 1500s to the ponies on Assateague.

However the animals came to be here, Chincoteaguers have been capturing them since the 1800s to use as their own, and since 1925, a posse of horsemen now known as the saltwater cowboys has run organized roundups. The ponies are excellent swimmers, and once a year, during 鈥減ony penning鈥 week in July, the cowboys swim the herd across a quarter-mile channel from Assateague to Chincoteague, where they run through the streets, past adoring, gleeful crowds, to fairgrounds on the west side of the island. There, toward the end of the week, about 60 foals go up for auction before the cowboys swim the rest back to Assateague.

Doing all this keeps the herd size in check at around 150 ponies and, combined with proceeds from an annual carnival, raises nearly $800,000 for the , which has owned and managed the herd for nearly 100 years.

For everyone else, the week is a chance to overdose on some seriously cute ponies.

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Our Travel Writer鈥檚 Favorite Apre虁s 国产吃瓜黑料 Food /adventure-travel/destinations/best-apres-adventure-meals/ Thu, 21 Jul 2022 14:28:02 +0000 /?p=2589379 Our Travel Writer鈥檚 Favorite Apre虁s 国产吃瓜黑料 Food

From kimchis in South Korea to falafels in Egypt, our author says these meals refueled him after adventures on the road

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Our Travel Writer鈥檚 Favorite Apre虁s 国产吃瓜黑料 Food

Contributor Tim Neville has spent years on the road finding off-the-grid destinations to write about for 国产吃瓜黑料. So when he says these are the most memorable meals he’s eaten after a day of adventuring, that’s really saying something.

The Meals One World Traveler Can't Stop Dreaming About

Tim Neville has been around the world and back again, and as good travelers do, he鈥檚 made sure to try the local cuisine at every stop. So we asked him to write about his favorite meals鈥攁nd how you can try them too.

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Mestia, Republic of Georgia

What: Dumplings and bazhe salad
国产吃瓜黑料 pairing: Paragliding

After a day of soaring around the Caucasus Mountains above Mestia, I made my way to the and ordered the khinkali meat dumplings and a salad with bazhe sauce, a miracle paste of crushed walnuts packed with blue fenugreek, coriander, and marigold. A guy at the next table started to sing, and soon everyone else joined in. Nothing strange in that鈥擥eorgians love to sing at dinner.

Pyeongchang, South Korea

What: The buffet
国产吃瓜黑料 pairing: Skiing or hiking

Shortly before the 2018 Winter Games kicked off, I spent a week skiing and exploring the region鈥檚 temples and barbecue joints. But it was the buffet at the that I would return for. Picture a room the size of an airplane hangar, with dozens of stations displaying spicy kimchis, rich sundubu-jjigae (a tofu stew), hoeddeok (sweet pancakes), and so many crocks of fermented veggies that I think I overdid it.

Vis, Croatia

What: Lamb peka
国产吃瓜黑料 pairing: Scuba diving

A few years ago, I visited this island in the Adriatic to dive among the ancient amphorae that dot the seafloor. Still wet, I drove to a spot between the towns of Vis and Komiza and found , a winery and family restaurant in a gorgeous stone building. I sat under a colossal tree and devoured a bowl of peka, a rich lamb stew with spices and carrots that鈥檚 slow-cooked over an open fire at an outdoor kitchen.

Egypt

What: Ful mudammas, falafel, labneh
国产吃瓜黑料 pairing: Cruising the Nile

In 2016, a few years after the Arab Spring rocked Egypt, I went to see whether tourism was bouncing back. It wasn鈥檛. I stuck around and ended up aboard a luxury Nile cruiser, the , which traveled between Luxor and Aswan. Every morning I鈥檇 sit on the top deck and eat a plate piled high with falafel, ful mudammas (a fava bean stew), and creamy labneh (strained yogurt), watching kids play in the river and the ancient villages and temples coming into view. I could eat that meal three times a day.

Ryukyu Islands, Japan

What: Umibudo
国产吃瓜黑料 pairing: Island hopping

The Ryukyus stretch southwest from Japan toward Taiwan, and at the northernmost part of the chain is Okinawa, which is something like the Hawaii of Japan, with a different culture, music, and culinary tradition than on the mainland. Here you order umibudo, a type of sea-grape-looking seaweed that鈥檚 crunchy, bright, and salty. It鈥檚 the closest thing you can get to taking a bite out of the ocean.

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These 8 Meals Are Worth Traveling For /adventure-travel/destinations/meals-worth-traveling-for/ Thu, 21 Jul 2022 14:26:29 +0000 /?p=2589376 These 8 Meals Are Worth Traveling For

Tim Neville has been around the world and back again, and as good travelers do, he鈥檚 made sure to try the local cuisine at every stop. So we asked him to write about his favorite meals鈥攁nd how you can try them, too.

The post These 8 Meals Are Worth Traveling For appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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These 8 Meals Are Worth Traveling For

In the late 1970s, my parents took my brother and me to a cabin on Little Cobb Island, an uninhabited dollop of beach and seashells on the Atlantic side of Virginia鈥檚 Eastern Shore. The cabin was only accessible by boat, and things could get sketchy if the fog rolled in and you drifted too close to the surf. It was November, and the lodge was cold and drafty, so all four of us slept that first night stacked like cordwood in a single musty bed.

I was only four or five years old, but four decades later I can still recall with full clarity the smell when I woke up the next morning. Bud Taylor, a local roofer who doubled as the cabin鈥檚 caretaker, was cooking sausage in a cast-iron pan atop a stove fired by driftwood. 鈥淗ere, boy,鈥 my father said, handing me a link. It was small and gray and wet with fat. Every bite sent delicious bolts of grease sizzling around my scrawny body. 鈥淓verything tastes better when you鈥檙e roughing it,鈥 my father said, sensing my astonishment and handing me another link. 鈥淒on鈥檛 eat 鈥檈m all.鈥

The author (right) with his brother on Little Cobb Island in 1978
The author (right) with his brother on Little Cobb Island in 1978 (Photo: Tim Neville)

Our Travel Writer鈥檚 Favorite Apre虁s 国产吃瓜黑料 Food

From kimchis in South Korea to falafels in Egypt, our author says these meals refueled him after adventures on the road

Read More

There was nothing even remotely special about that sausage. It was just a pack of Jimmy Dean that Bud had picked up at the local Meatland market before we launched from the town of Oyster. But consuming those lumpy treasures out there, with the wind bullying the windows and the tide marching in, had transformed every single bite into a culinary masterpiece.

That鈥檚 the beauty of food and adventure, that something as simple as saucy grits can be downright magical on 翱谤别驳辞苍鈥檚 John Day River. Lentils at home are just wrong鈥攃onvince me otherwise鈥攂ut when spooned over rice in a remote Nepalese teahouse, with the Himalayas shimmering in the purple moonlight, you鈥檒l be crying for more, too.

Food has given me so many great reasons to travel, to be curious, to try something new. I spent the bulk of a Swiss vacation hunting for a particular cheese, learned to make pickles from an Estonian lady who exacted her payment in kisses, delighted a friend by picking her pomegranates while hiking in Albania, and gave my tongue a fungus eating so many fermented things on a ski trip to South Korea. One great bite can change your entire perception of a place. If you want to fall in love with North Dakota, go run through the grasslands with a bag of Dot鈥檚 pretzel sticks.

That鈥檚 what I did. And of course I ate 鈥檈m all. Here are some of my other favorite meals from around the world.

Brats and Bikes: Hermann, Missouri

Back in the early 19th century, German immigrants left their homes in Philadelphia and set out west looking for land to build their own community. They settled along the Missouri River, where the hills and sunshine reminded them of the Rhineland, and the town of Hermann was born. Today you鈥檒l still find families named Oelschaelger, streets like Goethe and Gutenberg, and, of course, heaps of wunderbar food and drink. Biking is one of the best ways to experience that legacy, too. The Katy Trail runs for 240 carless miles over rolling hills between Clinton and Machens and is the country鈥檚 longest rail-to-trail path. You will spin over mostly limestone gravel through farmland and along the Missouri River, then past wineries and into small towns like Rocheport, where the welcomes diners and riders alike with a fleet of rentals, and Hermann, a town worthy of a layover. Start things off at the on East First Street, where wurstmeister Mike Sloan peddles classics like knockwurst, weisswurst, and bockwurst, as well as creative, American-influenced versions like the Bloody Mary brat, a hickory-smoked iteration with celery, tomato, and horseradish. You won鈥檛 go thirsty, either. The whole riverfront region between Saint Louis and Jefferson City is known as the Missouri Rhineland for its scores of wineries. Hermann鈥檚 own Stone Hill is also home to the restaurant Vintage 1847, serving various wursts, krauts, and kartoffelpuffer, a potato pancake that鈥檚 a delight to say as well as eat. Forty miles east, the area around Augusta became America鈥檚 first federally recognized wine region in 1980, beating California鈥檚 Napa Valley by eight months. At the end of the line鈥攐r anywhere along it, for that matter鈥攇etting back is easy. Amtrak trains zip along the opposite bank, with special cars that can accommodate your bike.

Fondue Redux: Obwalden, Switzerland

It doesn鈥檛 take a culinary Sherlock to figure out what happens when a country famous for cheese shares a border with one famous for pasta鈥攜ou get world-beating mac and cheese. And the Swiss version is excuse enough for an ocean crossing. Called 盲濒辫濒别谤尘补驳谤辞苍别苍, or herdsman macaroni, it鈥檚 richer and smokier than the American stuff, made with bacon, butter, wine, and supremely stinky cheese melted in pools of heavy cream in a cast-iron cauldron over an open fire. Pour it over macaroni or penne and the result is exactly what you want after a long day in the Alps. You can find this dish throughout the country, but for the most authentic experience head to the central canton of Obwalden, where several small mountain farms double as restaurants come summer. Once, while cycling over the 5,285-foot Glaubenbielen Pass, I happened upon one where the matriarch, a boisterous woman named Rita Enz, served me a mound with a side of applesauce and stiff stone-fruit brandy. The Enzes have since retired, but their farm was located along the 脛lplermagronen Trail, which lives on today. Its little-known network of well-marked footpaths and dirt roads lead to a handful of farms that create the namesake dish using ingredients produced on-site. To explore, keep your objective simple, with a two-mile out-and-back hike along the Obwaldner H枚henweg Trail, starting from a parking area just west of Glaubenbielen Pass; you can stop at the Glaubenbielen Alpine Farm, near the 5,860-foot Rotspitz, or wander a few miles west to the Alp Arni-Schwand farm. For an overnight trip, hike about 4.5 miles one way south on the B盲rgmandlipfad Giswil Trail, also called Trail 576, to reach the Fluonalp farm, where the dairy cranks out 29,000 pounds of cheese each summer, some of which ends up in 盲濒辫濒别谤尘补驳谤辞苍别苍. You can stay there, too (from $70).

Food Finds

Camp Chef

Three outdoor schools take backcountry cooking to a whole new level

Want to blow your friends away with a hearty stew or a freshly baked pie on your next river trip? The near Philipsburg, Montana, offers a four-day class that will see you mastering the art of Dutch-oven cooking (from $800). Or learn to barbecue better with four-time world-champion pitmaster and bestselling cookbook author Myron Mixon, whose in Unadilla, Georgia, will bolster your confidence preparing everything from pork butts and shoulders to chicken, beef, and ribs (you know, all the food groups) during a three-day course at his home (from $895). And if you鈥檝e simply got to perfect pasta, Italy鈥檚 Emilia-Romagna region is the premier place to start. Make it a weeklong adventure with a van-supported, 156-mile bike tour from Parma to Bologna with (from $1,500). You鈥檒l stop in towns along the way for tutorials on balsamic vinegar, gelato, and, naturalmente, handmade pasta.

Breakfast Club: Lone Pine, California

Last summer, photographers Dan and Janine Patitucci spent months mapping remote trails in California鈥檚 Sierra Nevada, looking for the best 36 paths to highlight in a new trail-running guidebook, to be published later this year. Their most rewarding discovery? Breakfast at the . And by breakfast we mean pie. The diner has perfected the art of the light, flaky crust, and it loads them up with the freshest fruit available. The triple-berry pie sells out fast, but the Patituccis also recommend the peach and blackberry, which you can order in a six-inch round just for yourself. The caf茅 is located just 12 miles from Whitney Portal, the jumping-off point for climbing (or running) 14,494-foot Mount Whitney, the highest point in the lower 48. It鈥檚 also about 120 miles from Badwater Basin in Death Valley National Park, at 282 feet below sea level the country鈥檚 lowest point. Summiting Whitney is a big day by any measure, with about 21 miles and 6,600 vertical feet to cover. If that鈥檚 your goal, order the Iron Man Scramble鈥攁n eggy hodgepodge of spinach, avocado, mushrooms, and tomato slathered in hollandaise sauce鈥攁nd get your pie to go. If you鈥檙e spending the night, grab a slice in the morning.

First-Reds Frenzy: Cordova, Alaska

Each spring, a craze begins to cloud the minds of Alaskans, and it has nothing to do with the approach of summer and, with it, of long stretches of actual daylight. Spring is when the first Copper River reds, a highly coveted and especially tasty sockeye salmon, begin arriving on the docks of Cordova, located at the mouth of the river, about 145 miles southeast of Anchorage. The fish, which can easily go for $50 a pound, are prized by chefs for the additional fat they pack on to complete their 300-mile journey, which makes for richer and more decadent eating. While you could order a fillet from Sarah Ecolano, a commercial fisherwoman and founder of the sustainable , why not head deep into the Last Frontier to witness the madness firsthand? First book a room in Cordova at the (from $140) overlooking the inlet, then set out on any of the 40 streams and rivers guides have access to. You can sportfish for salmon in the salt water, or head up to the Eyak River to throw big streamer flies at reds and Dolly Varden trout. At the end of your trip, the lodge will process up to 50 pounds of fish per person per day at no additional charge, flash freeze it, and store it for you until you鈥檙e ready to head home.

Food Finds

Hunt, Gather, Eat

A series of courses teach the value鈥攁nd ethics鈥攐f holistic harvesting

You鈥檝e probably heard that one of the best things you can do for the planet is give up meat, but that kind of misses the point. It鈥檚 not the burger that鈥檚 the bogeyman but the industrial, methane-spewing, water-polluting complex behind mass-produced meat. Enter Bruce McGlenn and his . Based in Kettle Falls, Washington, McGlenn teaches students who have never held a rifle or harvested a wild oyster how to hunt and gather. 鈥淗unting is really about strengthening our connection to nature so that we feel we鈥檙e a part of it,鈥 he says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 about being human.鈥 From May through June, McGlenn holds a series of four-day Awaken the Hunter courses, designed to brief you on how to prepare for and carry out a 鈥渉olistic, ethical hunt.鈥 It covers everything from regulations and strategy to choosing the right rifle or bow. In the field, you鈥檒l learn how to dress and butcher your kill, as well as proper ways to cook it. McGlenn also offers half-day shellfish-foraging lessons on Hood Canal, where you鈥檒l learn how to identify Manila clams and shuck a wild oyster. The session ends with a three-course feast right on the beach. Foraging from $195; hunting from $2,400 for four days

Eater on Belay: Kalymnos, Greece

The Greek island of Kalymnos sits just off the coast of Turkey, about 150 miles southeast of Athens, and counts as the closest thing to Elysium on earth. Whitewashed villages ring a ragged coast of limestone cliffs facing the Sea of Crete. While climbers know this 42-square-mile paradise for its thousands of sport routes, which ascend spectacular sun-fired arches and walls, you should come to meet George Pizanias, quite possibly the island鈥檚 best cook, judging by the crowds that flock to his restaurant, the , in the town of Massouri. Pizanias runs the establishment with his wife and three daughters, and prepares traditional Greek recipes with 鈥渁n extra touch,鈥 as he says, like adding homemade fruit chutneys that set the meal apart. Grab a table on the patio that overlooks the island of Telendos and let gluttony rule. Should you start with the stuffed grape leaves or the 鈥渁ncient鈥 salad? (The latter is a mix of wild vegetables the islanders have been eating for millennia, something Pizanias鈥檚 culinary research uncovered.) The whole leg of lamb, roasted to perfection, is hard to pass up, but it鈥檚 the tuna that鈥檚 exceptional; caught that day, it鈥檚 pan-seared with sesame seeds and served with marinated beets, red cabbage, olive oil, lemon, and fig chutney. If that doesn鈥檛 seal the deal, dessert probably will. Pizanias makes his own ice cream and serves it atop little fried dough balls called loukoumades, which he then drizzles with Kalymnos鈥檚 most famous ingredient: a golden, naturally herbal-tasting honey made by bees drawn to the island鈥檚 large swaths of wild thyme and oregano. Try not to think about that when it鈥檚 your turn to belay.

The Meat and Three: From Oxford to Hattiesburg, Mississippi

Chef Robert St. John knows a thing or two about awesome southern food. As the author of 11 cookbooks, the owner of seven restaurants, and the producer of the foodie show , the 60-year-old from Mississippi has spent a lifetime refining family recipes that have defined the region for centuries: Fried chicken. Dumplings. Black-eyed peas. For him, the greatest way to experience the South is to taste it, and to do that, he suggests a 250-mile road trip from Oxford in the north down to Hattiesburg via the capital city of Jackson. The itinerary links some of the most memorable community caf茅s in the state offering the traditional 鈥渕eat and three鈥 lunch special: a choice of protein with three sides, like collard greens, butter beans, and rice with gravy. The main at in Oxford is southern-fried catfish, while Bully鈥檚 in Jackson does everything from pigs鈥 feet to beef tips, all served on a wonderfully lowbrow cafeteria tray. The highlight might be the in Hattiesburg, run by St. John. 鈥淏est fried chicken of your life,鈥 he says. Bring a paddleboard or a kayak to explore the northern recreational playgrounds of Grenada Lake and Sardis Lake, the latter also popular with mountain bikers, who enjoy 13.5 miles of singletrack at Clear Creek. End your trip in the Gulf town of Biloxi; from there you can quickly paddle to Deer Island Coastal Preserve, a four-mile undeveloped stretch of white sand where you can pitch a tent for free.

Food Finds

Bison steak at Owamni in Minneapolis
Bison steak at Owamni in Minneapolis (Photo: John Yuccas)

Back to Their Roots

A new Minneapolis restaurant is serving up gourmet Native American cuisine

There鈥檚 a growing movement of Native American chefs exploring their traditional food cultures, and it鈥檚 only getting tastier. In July, Sean Sherman, better known as the and lauded for his bestselling cookbooks, and Dana Thompson, executive director of the , opened , a restaurant in downtown Minneapolis on the banks of the Haha Wakpa, or Mississippi River, that鈥檚 dedicated to Native cuisine. You鈥檒l find no dairy, chicken, or pork on the menu鈥攐r any other ingredients that aren鈥檛 indigenous to North America. Instead, chefs whip up delectables like native-corn tacos with grilled mushrooms, bowls of tepary beans with wild rice and wojape (a chokecherry sauce), and plates of braised bison. Even the cricket salad looks irresistible.

Big Sky, Big Steak: Hatch, Utah

If you could survey the legions of visitors who come to southern Utah every year to explore the national parks and monuments that pepper this beautiful part of the country, chances are good they would say these three things impressed them most: the rocks, the sky, and the steak in Hatch. Tucked in a rather boring brown building in this dusty hamlet, a mere 15 miles from the gates of Bryce Canyon, the on Main Street is an institution worthy of your attention. It鈥檚 a classic western joint, with a taxidermied bear on its stage and a bar where passersby can belly up for a spiked sarsaparilla on an actual saddle for a seat. But it鈥檚 the giant, open-flame grill in the room that makes this place unique. That鈥檚 where you go to cook your own steak. This is cattle country, and the beef is as good as you鈥檇 expect鈥攍ocal, grass-fed, mouthwatering cuts. Most folks aren鈥檛 from around these parts, so they opt for something hard to mess up like a New York strip. The more dedicated, however, should set their sights on the Tomahawk, a 24-ounce rib eye that covers the entire plate. The grill has meat probes to help you get that perfectly pink middle, or you can spend an extra three dollars to have the staff grill it up for you. If steak isn鈥檛 your thing, the chef smokes a batch of baby back ribs daily with hickory and other hardwoods until the meat falls off the bone. Also, sorry, families; no one under 21 is allowed inside, because Utah. As for working all those calories off, it just so happens that the nation鈥檚 newest long-distance hut-to-hut mountain-bike route runs right past the saloon. The Aquarius Trail stretches for 190 miles from Brian Head to Escalante and includes rollicking descents on solid singletrack like the 12-mile Bunker Creek Trail, which you鈥檒l ride on day one into Hatch; from there, the first hut is just a few merciful miles away.

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