Olivia Dwyer Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/olivia-dwyer/ Live Bravely Tue, 27 Dec 2022 08:47:05 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Olivia Dwyer Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/olivia-dwyer/ 32 32 We Desperately Need Maternity Outerwear for Winter /outdoor-gear/snow-sports-gear/maternity-section-technical-winter-outerwear/ Sat, 16 Mar 2019 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/maternity-section-technical-winter-outerwear/ We Desperately Need Maternity Outerwear for Winter

It's time for maternity-specific winter gear to be available in retail.

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We Desperately Need Maternity Outerwear for Winter

In April 2018, traversed the European Alps, the only female ski mountaineer on a four-person team that . Weeks later, back home in Jackson, Wyoming, Smiley learned she was pregnant. Was it time for the professional mountain athlete and coach to sit out a ski season?

Hardly. On November 8, six months pregnant and 25 pounds heavier, Smiley logged her first backcountry ski day with a baby on board. She moved uphill at a slower pace, and it was awkward when her belly bumped her knees midturn. Still, Smiley skied five days a week to keep her body and mind healthy as she prepared for childbirth.

A crucial piece of technical outerwear made her outdoor winter activities more comfortable: a custom jacket extender created for her by a designer at听Arc鈥檛eryx.听It was a triangular swath of air-permeable synthetic insulation with two zippers. Each side zipped onto either end听of Smiley鈥檚 jackets, adding width to the garments as her body changed. 鈥淚 can鈥檛 wear it without [every woman]听I run into commenting,鈥 she says. 鈥淢ostly, 鈥榃here do I get one? Can I use it when you鈥檙e done?鈥欌

Janelle Smiley with her baby in the BabyBj枚rn carrier under the Jacket extender
Janelle Smiley with her baby in the BabyBj枚rn carrier under the Jacket extender (Mark Smiley)

But the jacket extender isn鈥檛 available in stores, and most major outdoor brands don鈥檛听offer apparel or accessories designed specifically for pregnant women. There鈥檚 the听 zipper extender ($63) and听 line of maternity apparel and gear, but outside of these retailers and a couple others, maternity outerwear is scarce.

Meanwhile, maternity-activewear styles, or clothing designed for exercise, have increased 231 percent since 2014 in the U.S., where maternity wear is a $1.96 billion business. Smiley鈥檚 experience suggests a growing niche market for maternity technical outerwear.

Motherhood has never stopped women from outdoor sports participation, but听it did once mark听the end of a professional athletic career. That鈥檚 changing. At the 2018 Winter Olympics, cross-country skier Kikkan Randall was the only mother on Team USA. But when she won gold in the team sprint, there was anothermother on the podium鈥攂ronze medalist Marit Bjorgen of Norway. 鈥淲e鈥檝e reached a collective consciousness, where more of these stories are being told and seen,鈥 says professional skier听. She has two young daughters and was filmed for the 2016 Warren Miller movie听 while pregnant with her first. 鈥淚t鈥檚 getting to be more the norm.鈥

That holds true for recreational athletes, too. 鈥淲e have a lot of very active pregnant women who want to continue to do winter sports,鈥 says Dr. Erin A. S. Clark at University of Utah Health, who has treated pregnantresort and backcountry skiers, nordic skiers, winter hikers, and snowshoers. 鈥淔alls are the primary risk we talk to people about. Otherwise we鈥檙e really encouraging.鈥

Leading experts and government policy echo that. 鈥淭here鈥檚 a mindset that being sedentary makes for a healthier pregnancy, and that鈥檚 absolutely wrong,鈥 says Gregory A. L. Davies, who has researched exercise during pregnancy for the International Olympic Committee. The U.S. Department of Health and Human Services recommends 2.5 hours a week of aerobic activity for pregnant women听and states that those accustomed to high-intensity aerobic workouts can safely continue.

鈥淚t鈥檚 not just empowering women, it鈥檚 a good business move,鈥 says Kit DesLauriers. 鈥淚t says, We hear you, we acknowledge you, and we want to support you in every phase of your life.鈥

So why don鈥檛 many major outdoor brands make anything for pregnant women to wear? Arc鈥檛eryx, the North Face, and Patagonia听declined to comment. Interviews with seven brand ambassadors who are mothers indicated that sponsors happily supplied larger sizes during their pregnancies. Recreational athletes rustle up oversize听bibs at the Salvation Army, borrow from partners, and pass on what works to friends. Perhaps because the need for maternity outerwear is short-lived鈥攖he nine months a women is pregnant鈥攇ear companies rarely get requests. 鈥淧eople are acutely invested [while they鈥檙e pregnant], and then they move on,鈥 says Majka Burhardt, a professional climber and mother of twins. Without obvious demand, niche product is a risky investment for manufacturers committed to factory-order minimums.

Then there鈥檚 the idea that no one buys pricey new gear for a single season. But that hasn鈥檛 stopped the North Face and Patagonia, among others, from producing infant and toddler apparel designed for mere months of use. In fact, two mothers on the North Face鈥檚 athlete roster鈥攔enowned ski mountaineers and Hilaree Nelson鈥攁sked for and collaborated on that brand鈥檚 first infant-toddler collection; that听launched in 2010, and听now听the line contains 79 individual styles. DesLauriers thinks a small maternity line could also do well. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not just empowering women, it鈥檚 a good business move,鈥 she says. 鈥淚t says, We hear you, we acknowledge you, and we want to support you in every phase of your life.鈥

The numbers in the marketplace may deter outdoor companies as well鈥攚omen do represent a smaller market for technical apparel than men. , which tracks retail data, counted $2.8 billion in outerwear sales last year, and听female garments made up slightly less than half those sales. In the noninsulated-shells category, men鈥檚 items outsold women鈥檚 $483.6 billion to $247听billion. But as more women stay active well into their pregnancies, the investment for gear companies may be worthwhile.听鈥淲inter clothes were the hardest, and I definitely would have bought a maternity ski pant,鈥 says professional skier Crystal Wright, mother to a one-year-old. 鈥淚 spend 80 percent of my days in athletic and outdoor wear, so it was tough for me to find clothes that worked or fit.鈥

鈥淏irth and motherhood are physically draining experiences,鈥 says a professional climber with three-month-old twins. 鈥淓mbarking on these phases strong, fit, and vibrant from staying active in pregnancy just seems like a way to set yourself up for success.鈥 Caton also owns and operates in British Columbia听and says she鈥檚 guided more than 20 pregnant women on snow and rock.

Liz Oakes Smart's DIY maternity pants
Liz Oakes Smart's DIY maternity pants (Liz Oakes Smart)

Liz Oakes Smart, an IFMGA-certified guide based in Chamonix, France, skied until she was eight months pregnant with her firstborn. 鈥淎 certain part of it is I need to work, and this is my job,鈥 she says. 鈥淎nother part is I鈥檝e skied my whole life, and it鈥檚 just what I do.鈥 Now expecting her second child, she plans to guide through her second trimester. Smart also relies on custom gear鈥攖wo pairs of ski pants she transformed into maternity wear with the help of YouTube tutorials.

Back in Wyoming, Smiley continued to use her jacket extender well into her third trimester, proving that major outdoor brands possess the ability and the capacity to create maternity garments. On February 26, she wore it听on a 1,000-foot ski tour up Snow King, where her contractions began. She later zipped into the jacket extender on the way to St. John鈥檚 Medical Center.听Even after her daughter鈥檚 arrival, Smiley still finds use for the custom piece.

鈥淚 can wear it over a BabyBj枚rn carrier,鈥 she says. 鈥淣ow we鈥檒l both go about our winter activities.鈥

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Founded on Obsession: 12 Startups That Could Be Outdoor鈥檚 Next Legacy Brands /business-journal/brands/founded-on-obsession-next-legacy-brands/ Wed, 07 Feb 2018 03:48:28 +0000 /?p=2572794 Founded on Obsession: 12 Startups That Could Be Outdoor鈥檚 Next Legacy Brands

Startups fueled by passion keep the outdoor industry moving forward. Meet a few launched by industry vets, core users, and garage inventors

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Founded on Obsession: 12 Startups That Could Be Outdoor鈥檚 Next Legacy Brands

We all know the outdoor industry鈥檚 legacy brands: Patagonia, The North Face, Arc鈥檛eryx, Black Diamond. But where are the fresh-faced newcomers destined to become titans?

First, why startups matter: 鈥淚nnovation and industry progression come from the group, not a handful of companies,鈥 said Drew Simmons, founder of PR agency Pale Morning Media. 鈥淓ven the best company with the largest R&D budget can鈥檛 match the innovation from hundreds of brands with small budgets.鈥 Meaning startups fueled by a connection to the outdoors feed the industry鈥檚 success and relevancy.

At Outdoor Retailer + Snow Show in Denver this January, we looked for startups pushing the industry forward. What do they share with legacy brands? Gear obsessions, perfected. And a tireless zeal for sharing innovation with the masses. We predict big things from these 12 nascent brands.

Agency Aspect
Agency Aspect’s Crossbody bag (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

Agency Aspect / outdoor gear with a touch of luxury

You鈥檝e already seen gear designed by Michelle Rose and Liana Delucca Johnson. Before teaming up to launch Agency Aspect and create women鈥檚 bags, both women worked for The North Face. Rose helmed the team behind women鈥檚 outerwear; Johnson focused on backpacks. That experience informs Agency Aspect’s inaugural 鈥渁ctive luxury鈥 bags. The Hybrid Crossbody and larger Messenger鈥攆eatured in the brand鈥檚 current Kickstarter campaign鈥攄eploy 500D Cordura, premium leather, climbing hardware, magnet closures, water-repellant zips, and ergonomic shape for hands-free use. 鈥淭he bags are a hybrid of luxury and performance,鈥 said Rose.

Chill angel betsey seabert
Betsey Seabert poses in front of her merino wool jammie line. (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

Chill Angel / merino wool PJs promise quality Zzzs

After Betsy Seabert survived breast cancer, doctors prescribed an estrogen blocker that triggered hot flashes every 20 minutes. Each night featured sweat, chills, and scant shuteye. Then Seabert turned in wearing a merino wool base layer she at home in Steamboat, Colorado. Unlike synthetic pajamas, the wool pulled moisture away from her skin and retained warmth when damp. Seabert woke up rested鈥攁nd inspired. She launched Chill Angle merino wool sleepwear in November 2017, drawing on her career in sales with Smartwool and Point6 to source New Zealand merino that鈥檚 cut and sewn in California. The line uses 18.5micron yarn at 200 grams per square meter for a smooth, light feel against skin. 鈥淭he idea is to make your sleep as comfortable as your outdoor activity,鈥 said Seabert.

Coalition Snow Jen Gureki
Jen Gureki of Coalition Snow is looking to \”shred the patriarchy.\” (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

Coalition SNOW / skis for women who rip

At Coalition Snow鈥檚 booth, skis and snowboards purpose-built for women display common high-performance features: wood cores, ABS sidewalls, sandwich construction, camber underfoot, tip and tail rocker. So, what sets the Reno-Tahoe brand apart? 鈥淭he way we design products is the innovation,鈥 said co-founder Jen Gureki. 鈥淲e see women鈥檚 differences as a strength, not a deficit.鈥 She and co-founder Danielle Rees learned the technical components of ski manufacturing from veteran builders and engineers. Then they built skis from 157 to 180 centimeters long, with torsional stiffness and stiff flex鈥攁ll qualities scarce in women鈥檚 specific models. Shred the patriarchy, indeed.

Jim Lamancusa Cusa Tea

Jim Lamancusa is stoked about (Cusa) tea. (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

Cusa Tea / revolutionary brews

Jim Lamancusa carried tea on a 2016 backpacking trip鈥攁nd emerged from his Colorado Rockies sojourn burdened with soggy tea bags. 鈥淭ea absorbs 400 percent of its weight in water,鈥 he said. 鈥淚t鈥檚 the only thing heavier to pack out than pack in.鈥 Twelve months and 22 patents later, Lamancusa debuted the world鈥檚 first premium instant tea. Lamancusa鈥檚 method starts with a cold brew of organic tea leaves and real fruit, then uses vacuum dehydration to produce tea crystals. Empty a 1.2-gram sachet into a mug, add 14 ounces of hot or cold water, and your cuppa鈥檚 ready in three seconds.

Fisher + Baker
Mike Arbeiter and Greg Horvitz are obsessed with performance and style. (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

Fisher + Baker / urban menswear built for outdoor moments

When Greg Horvitz lived in mountain towns, he favored function over style. He wore Gore-Tex to Vail鈥檚 bars; rocked flannel and Carhartts at a Maine office. Then Horvitz moved to Minneapolis. There, he needed sophisticated layers that worked for his daily bike commute. As the industrial designer refined prototypes, he connected with outdoor industry vet Mike Arbeiter. In 2016, they launched Fisher + Baker, a menswear apparel brand that combines classic silhouettes, technical fabrics, and functional tailoring. Consider the Birmingham CPO jacket: Schoeller鈥檚 c_change membrane blocks wind and rain, synthetic insulation adds warmth, and underarm zips provide ventilation. 鈥淓ven in a city, I find little outdoor moments every day,鈥 said Horvitz. 鈥淚 wanted confidence in the elements鈥攁nd style.鈥

Flowfold Charley Friedman
Charley Friedman makes cool gear out of old sails. (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

Flowfold / upcycled sailcloth becomes durable gear-haulers

In 2005, Charley Friedman learned to sew sails on the Maine coast at his high school summer job. Then he used mylar and carbon fiber scraps from racing sails to make indestructible, featherlight wallets. Friedman kept stitching as he studied civil engineering. After graduation, he decided to build Flowfold around transforming pre-consumer waste into minimalist, hard-wearing wallets, bags, packs, and duffels. 鈥淚 wanted to figure out how to make money and give back,鈥 said Friedman. 鈥淭he outdoor industry is faster paced than designing roads or building chemical plants.鈥 His company works with fellow Maine brands: Sterling Rope offcuts become dog leashes; L.L.Bean carries exclusive product. And every Flowfold product is made in the USA.

Himali Tendi Sherpa and Dave Schaeffer
A passion for big mountains led Tendi Sherpa and Dave Schaeffer to start Himali. (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

Himali / high-altitude outerwear by seasoned mountaineers

Tendi Sherpa first met Dave Schaeffer in 2014, at base camp in the Argentinian Andes below Aconcagua鈥檚 22,281-foot summit. A year later, the mountaineers launched Himali, an apparel brand dedicated to building layers for brutal high-altitude environments. Tendi, a Nepali IFMGA-certified guide who鈥檚 summited Everest 11 times, brings two decades of experience on 8,000-meter peaks to the design process. Dave is a former REI staffer with a mountaineering habit and a business degree. After a trio of Kickstarters, the duo arrived at OR + SS 2018 with three styles for men and women: an 800-fill, 9.8-ounce down jacket; a waterproof/breathable hardshell; and a stretchy, windproof softshell. Think technical, elegant layers, built to perform from base camp to summit鈥攚ith proceeds supporting Himalayan schools and clean water initiatives.

Noso Patches Kelli Jones
Kelli Jones of NoSo Patches has created a better duct tape. (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

NoSo Patches / DIY gear repair gets better

Kelli Jones has skied Wyoming鈥檚 Jackson Hole for 16 years, where the rugged Tetons shred her outerwear. 鈥淏ut I鈥檓 not putting duct tape on my $400 puffy jacket,鈥 she said. Instead, the accountant spent nights in her garage with an X-acto knife, fabric swatches, and assorted glues to design a patch that wouldn鈥檛 fray or gum up. Next, she handed out samples in Jackson鈥檚 tram line and raised $15,000 in a 2017 Indiegogo campaign. Today, NoSo Patches offers patch kits ($4.99鈥$14.99) that pairs a top-secret adhesive with ripstop nylon for foolproof gear repair. Simply open the package, peel off backing, press over a tear, seal with heat. Third-party testing shows Jones鈥檚 product lasts for 50 laundry cycles.

Qalo wedding rings
QALO silicone rings, founded by a couple of newlywed climbers (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

QALO / put an outdoor-proof ring on it

The perfect accessory for your technical flannel? A medical-grade silicone wedding ring. That鈥檚 the basic premise behind Qalo (say it: kay-lo), a California outfit launched in 2012 by Ted Baker and KC Holiday. The friends had each recently married, but metal rings didn鈥檛 suit their active lifestyles. They bet rock climbers wary of avulsion injuries felt the same. Ditto ski patrollers, guides, gym users, or anyone whose daily grind destroys gemstones. 鈥淲hat drives me is people, not what it鈥檚 made of,鈥 said Baker. Worried silicone will succumb to chain grease or scorching desert? Try Q2X, a non-conductive polymer that resists chemicals and tolerates high temperatures. From $20.

reDew jeans
ReDew jeans not only could revolutionize the way denim is made,听 our testers say they’re听 “ridiculously comfortable for how good they look.” (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

reDEW / a new kind of denim

Peter Lantz knows that denim is a dirty business. It鈥檚 also a massive business 鈥攇lobal denim sales top $50 billion each year. He saw this firsthand at H&M and VF, parent corporation to Lee and Wrangler. When he and Anders Haglund teamed up, they decided to make jeans that last, so consumers buy less. 鈥淲e want our base in the outdoors, where people actually care about the environment and the durability and lifecycle of the products they buy,鈥 said Lantz. In reDEW鈥檚 Core Collection (from $150), organic cotton blends with recycled polyester for a durable fabric with 360-degree stretch. The manufacturing process trims water and chemical use by 80 percent and cuts energy draw in half compared to standard practices. Coming soon: reDEW ditches cotton. This summer, reDEW will debut jorts cut from Zero Cotton Fabric, a blend of aspen, pine, and birch fibers from ISKO, a Turkish textile manufacturer that dominates global denim.Teton Bros Nori Suzuki

Nori Suzuki’s passion for backcountry skiing drove him to jump into the highly competitive arena of outdoor apparel. (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

Teton Bros听/ apparel for the skin track and the white room

Teton Bros designs herald a new generation of technical apparel in a highly competitive field. But we鈥檙e not talking urban cardio. Founders Nori and Junko Suzuki make backcountry-specific apparel. Nori, once a Spyder distributor in Japan, drew on ski days at home and in the American West to build 鈥渇unctional beauty鈥 into technical garments. That means off-center neck zips to prevent frostbite. Pit zips positioned on the chest for better air flow. And detachable bibs with an offset waist zip that delivers versatility minus cold spots. Plus, Polartec NeoShell, Alpha insulation, and Power Wool, for breathable yet protective layers throughout. Established a decade back in Japan, Teton Bros arrived stateside in 2015.

Weston Snowboards Leo Tsuo Mason Davey
Leo Tsuo and Mason Davey sell their snowboards from an innovative mobile showroom. (Photo: Olivia Dwyer)

Weston Snowboards / backcountry-inspired snowboards

Powder. That鈥檚 the first obsession snowboarders Leo Tsuo and Mason Davey shared. And the reason both worked in the Weston Snowboards shop in Minturn, Colorado. When the founder decided to sell in 2016, Tsuo and Davey purchased Weston and partnered up on a second obsession: backcountry-inspired snowboards. 鈥淎dvanced riders aren鈥檛 getting enough at resorts,鈥 said Tsuo. 鈥淭here鈥檚 still stoke to be built.鈥 They replaced the storefront with a mobile showroom. And engineered a 2018/19 splitboard line with hole-less bases鈥攎eaning smooth bases without visible hardware, a standard feature among top brands鈥攆or better glide and durability. Coming in 2019/20: a swallowtail split with weighted tails for user-friendly kick turns.

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The Best Women鈥檚 Alpine Skis of 2016 /outdoor-gear/snow-sports-gear/best-womens-alpine-skis-2016/ Thu, 08 Oct 2015 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/best-womens-alpine-skis-2016/ The Best Women鈥檚 Alpine Skis of 2016

The winners from our Snowbird, Utah, test.

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The Best Women鈥檚 Alpine Skis of 2016

We put these four听women-specific听skis to the test alongside two dozenothers at听Snowbird, Utah,听this year. They made it into the issue听for a reason.

(Atomic)

Atomic Vantage 90 CTI W听

All Mountain听Frontside听

Even frontside devotees detour into trees and bumps. : a ski that pairs on-piste performance with stellar off-trail capabilities. Camber underfoot is backed by a wood core and vibration-eating metal to ramp up carving power. A top-sheet window reveals woven carbon mesh that runs from tip to tail for torsional strength. Subtle rocker makes for supple turn initiation, while the wide 90-millimeter waist means you鈥檒l stay lifted in the fluff. 129/90/112.5

Price $725
(痴枚濒办濒)

V枚lkl听100Eight听W

All Mountain Powder

excels when storm totals measure in feet. Full rocker and a 108-millimeter waist kept testers atop thigh-deep powder and moving slough. Taper up front cut cleanly through chop and let us feather turns in the trees. Also noteworthy: a raised center ridge channels pressure through the ski for even flex and efficient power transfer. This steps down to a thinner profile at the edges, which reduces mass and saves energy. An ash and poplar core combines for a nimble fat ski, but there鈥檚 enough edge to handle hard snow. 141/108/124

Price $825
(K2)

K2 Skis听Fulluvit听98Ti听

All Mountain听

The aces corduroy, but that鈥檚 only half the story. The new K2 shines off-trail as well. Hold the ski in the sun and you鈥檒l see the aspen, paulownia, and bamboo core, engineered to trim thickness and swing weight. Less obvious are the center grooves, which shed more grams. Solid wood at the edges transfers power and grip, while metal absorbs terrain impact. K2 put camber in 70 percent of the ski, then added rocker at the tip and tail and taper to reduce tip deflection for a more forgiving feel. 131/98/119

Price $850
(Rossignol)

Rossignol Temptation 100听

All Mountain

The effortlessly navigates the whole hill. Camber through 70 percent of the ski paired with wood and metal guts delivers a damp, stable ride. On corduroy we drove it through full-throttle GS turns and easily shifted to short-radius arcs. Tip and tail rocker smooths turn transitions and works with the 100-millimeter waist to guarantee float even in boot-deep snow. And because honeycomb tips reduce swing weight, testers praised the Temptation鈥檚 maneuverability in bumps, narrow tree alleys, and broken chop. 140/100/130

Price $850

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