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Melissa Arnot Reid goes unfiltered

The post She Made History Climbing Everest Without Oxygen鈥擝ut Her New Memoir Tells a Bigger Story appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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She Made History Climbing Everest Without Oxygen鈥擝ut Her New Memoir Tells a Bigger Story

鈥淭his book is probably not what you might expect it to be,鈥 says Melissa Arnot Reid of her new memoir Enough. Reid is the first American woman to summit Everest鈥攁nd survive the descent鈥攚ithout supplemental oxygen.

For one, she emphasizes that her book is not just another contribution to the Everest canon. In fact, until the last minute, the book鈥檚 title was actually This Is Not a Book About Everest. She wanted readers to receive this disclaimer upfront, so they wouldn鈥檛 be 鈥渨ildly disappointed.鈥

Instead, her book is a deeply personal, seemingly no-filter account of her life鈥檚 journey. Released on April 1, Enough recounts everything from Reid鈥檚 difficult childhood and relationship with her mother, to lonely nights in the back of her truck in Montana, to many misadventures in love. Of course, she also discusses her extensive experiences climbing and guiding Everest, Rainier, and other peaks.

Filled with footnotes where Reid takes her off-the-cuff voice and honest takes to the next level, Enough is a book of our times, wherein candor, confessions, and embracing the bad along with the good seem to rule more by the moment.

鈥淚鈥檝e been really afraid of being rejected if I鈥檓 truly known,鈥 Reid told me from a hotel room in New York City, where she鈥檇 be kicking off a book tour the following day. That鈥檚 why this no-holds-barred approach to telling her story represents real bravery on par with her accomplishments in alpinism.

(Photo: Courtesy of Melissa Arnot Reid)

It takes courage to voluntarily share everything Reid includes in Enough. She reveals her most embarrassing childhood stories. She grapples with her exploitation of romantic partners to get ahead in the industry. She shares tales about named prominent alpinists that reveal tension and flaws. And she relives traumatic events and loss.

Since the scope of Enough ends in 2021, one subject Reid doesn鈥檛 explore in the book is her journey into motherhood, while continuing to work as a mountain guide. 鈥淚鈥檝e gone through this really wild personal experience of finding out that as a female athlete who works in the big mountains and becomes a mother, people sort of assume you don鈥檛 exist anymore,鈥 Reid reflects.

With a six-year-old daughter, a two-year-old son, and a fellow guide as a partner鈥攈e鈥檚 currently on a six-week stint in Alaska鈥擱eid describes her life these days as a 鈥渃razy Tetris game.鈥 Yet she also manages to run her nonprofit the , which she founded in 2012 to support the families of high-altitude workers who鈥檝e lost their lives in the mountains. Recently, the Juniper Fund also took over the work of the Khumbu Climbing Center, previously part of the . 鈥淭hat鈥檚 added a whole new layer of opportunity and work for us,鈥 she says.

Melissa Arnot Reid (Photo: 漏 Andrea Laughery 2024)

While Reid acknowledges that Enough is heavy at times, she encourages readers 鈥渢o look at the darkness鈥 in order to 鈥渁ppreciate the light.鈥 She emphasizes that 鈥渋t鈥檚 important not to look away from what we鈥檙e most fearful of.鈥 Clearly, that has been, and continues to be, a guiding principle of her life. It鈥檚 the modus operandi of her book, too.

We caught up with Reid to find out the triple entendre behind the title, why releasing the book feels 鈥渞eally scary,鈥 what she thinks about technological change on Everest, and the next book project on her mind.

After the interview, we鈥檝e also included an excerpt from Enough.

This interview has been edited for clarity and concision.听

Want to catch Reid in person? She鈥檒l be speaking at the 国产吃瓜黑料 Festival in Denver, Colorado, May 31鈥揓une 1. .听

Watch an excerpt from our interview with Melissa Arnot Reid

Climbing: When did you decide you wanted to write a book? And when did it become a concrete project you were committed to?

Melissa Arnot Reid: I had been thinking about writing a book for a really long time. I had been approached really early in my Everest guiding career about writing a book because my story was a little different from some of the other Everest stories. But I knew that I 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 want to write a story about Everest and I 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 want to write a story that wasn鈥檛 complete.

I鈥檝e been a lifelong writer, which most people don鈥檛 know. During the pandemic, I actually had a minute to not be guiding and constantly on trips and I had a two-year-old. I just really decided to dedicate myself to putting all the stories that I was holding in my heart onto the page.

Climbing: Count us among those who 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 realize you鈥檝e been a lifelong writer! What kind of writing do you enjoy?

Reid: I鈥檝e been writing since I was really really young. Writing is one of the only things I鈥檝e been naturally talented at. When I was in fifth or sixth grade, I started writing a lot of poetry. I have all of it still, which is both amazing and cringey. I spend a lot of time alone and I spend a lot of time reflecting鈥攅specially as a guide, I鈥檓 a natural storyteller. So to be able to bring all that together onto the page is incredibly meaningful for me.

Climbing: A dream in the making since fifth grade. So this book contains a lot of what I imagine are stories you鈥檝e never told before鈥攁bout your childhood, past life partners, and experiences in the mountains with well-known climbers. Which of these stories were you most hesitant about putting out in the world?

Reid: Honestly, this whole book makes me really nervous because my public image has been really curated and protected by myself. I鈥檝e shared the expected story of perseverance and achievement, but I鈥檝e left out a lot of the nuance. I went there with this book. I made myself a promise when I started writing that I would write as viscerally and honestly as I could and edit backwards if I needed to. It鈥檚 so essential to have the whole story out there.

I鈥檝e had a really complicated life鈥攂oth really terrible things that were not my choice and terrible things that were my choice. I take you鈥攖he reader鈥攐n that journey with me. I鈥檝e been really afraid of being rejected if I鈥檓 truly known. So this whole book is really scary because it鈥檚 me on all my good days and really bad days, my good choices and my really bad choices. Not everybody鈥檚 going to love it. I tell some critical stories from my perspective of named people that鈥攊f you鈥檙e in the outdoor world鈥攜ou will find familiar. That doesn鈥檛 scare me because those people lived it with me. I do believe that knowing somebody else鈥檚 perspective of an experience can be really beneficial for us all.

Climbing: Are you expecting to hear from folks who you told stories about now that the book is out?

Reid: If you read the book, you鈥檙e going to be like, 鈥淕osh, I wonder what so-and-so thinks of this.鈥 If you鈥檙e thinking that, it鈥檚 very likely that I already talked to so-and-so face-to-face. I tried to give people who I speak critically about at least a head鈥檚 up that it鈥檚 not a highly refined and curated story of our perfect moments. But I don鈥檛 spare myself from that same level of critique. Somebody else鈥檚 perspective is going to be really different from mine. I don鈥檛 want to say this to be baiting, but people who are in the story that I speak critically about also know what I 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 say. And that鈥檚 quite a lot actually.

Climbing: Having read Enough, I also want to reinforce what you鈥檙e saying about critiquing yourself alongside others. It鈥檚 not like you鈥檙e painting yourself out to be the hero of the story.

Reid: No, I am not. I have made a lot of mistakes. But you can be really imperfect and make tough choices and have low character moments and still be deserving. That鈥檚 sort of the journey that I鈥檝e gone on in my life.

Climbing towards the Hilary Step (Photo: Courtesy of Melissa Arnot Reid)

Climbing: Some of the experiences in the mountains that you reflect on in this book are quite tragic. Did the process of telling these stories change how you view those events? In other words, did the writing process alter your perspective on the past?

Reid: It鈥檚 been incredibly therapeutic. It鈥檚 been really interesting to see what stories continuously play in the background of my mind. The biggest thing I鈥檝e learned through the process is some things that I thought were scars from my past were actually just scabs and can bleed easily again. It鈥檚 a good place to remind yourself that it鈥檚 okay to continue healing.

Climbing: Are those scabs more from your family life or from experiences in the mountains?

Reid: I鈥檓 really exceptional at compartmentalizing. It鈥檚 made me really good in both emergency medicine and guiding. It鈥檚 allowed me to keep a really calm head, but that also doesn鈥檛 allow you to process big trauma. I was present for two back-to-back catastrophic seasons on Everest with a lot of death and trauma, while simultaneously going through a really difficult time in my personal life. It actually feels emotionally appropriate for me to revisit those things with some tenderness instead of stoicism.

Sixteen people dying is something that should affect you鈥攁nd then, of course, I had a really complicated childhood. It feels good to be able to share that side of my life. I鈥檝e always disliked when people were asking about my story, like, 鈥淵ou must have been climbing since you were little. Your parents must have been really outdoors people.鈥 It鈥檚 always graded me鈥攊f only I could tell you how that鈥檚 not been my story. And there鈥檚 never space. Now I have 304 pages to tell you all about it.

Climbing: A few months ago, you shared on Instagram that 鈥渆nough鈥濃攚hich is the title of your book鈥攐ught to be the word of the year. That feels pretty on-point right now. Have your thoughts on 鈥渆nough鈥 as the word of 2025 evolved at all now that we鈥檙e three months into the year?

Reid: 鈥滶nough鈥 is this incredibly beautiful word because it means so many things. It could mean that you are enough. It could mean that you鈥檝e done enough. Or it could mean that you鈥檝e had enough. In my case, it is truly all three.

When I think about 鈥渆nough鈥 being the theme of the year, it鈥檚 really all three of those things. I am enough: I don鈥檛 need to be anything other than what I am. So are all of us. I have done enough and I also can do more. But I鈥檝e definitely had enough. When you鈥檝e had enough, you get pretty activated to see change. That鈥檚 sort of where I鈥檓 at right now.

(Photo: Courtesy of Melissa Arnot Reid)

Climbing: As we enter the 2025 Everest season, the mountain has become more commercial than ever. We鈥檙e also seeing the , and drones are becoming more of a presence on the mountain. How has your view of Everest changed since your first climb? And as a longtime guide, what are your thoughts on where Everest is headed?

Reid: My first season on Everest was 2008. As we were trekking through Khumbu into basecamp, the porters were starting to use Nokia flip phones and there were cell towers. The conversation was: 鈥淭echnology is going to ruin adventure.鈥 This is pre-smartphones. I remember feeling like it was such a silly thing. Fast forward quite a long time, and technology has evolved the adventure that is Everest in myriad ways. How people choose to climb and how the commercial operations run is a huge part of that.

Climbing: What鈥檚 happened since you were last on Everest?

Reid: My last season working on Everest was 2016. In the last nine years, there has been so much change that it鈥檚 hard to even articulate. I鈥檓 still very involved in the industry鈥擨 run the Juniper Fund so we鈥檙e incredibly involved in what鈥檚 happening. A lot of the commercial guiding has shifted to really big Nepali outfitters, so foreign operators like [Lukas] Furtenbach have to continue to be competitive in the ways that are meaningful to them. They also have to answer to what people want.

My personal opinions on truncating an adventure into achievement alone probably aren鈥檛 really welcome in that commercial environment. Something that I鈥檝e always thought was really wonderful about adventure is it separates you from the ways that we distract ourselves in our daily life. If you don鈥檛 allow yourself that separation, it鈥檚 not to say you can鈥檛 have a tremendous adventure, you鈥檙e just having a different one.

I鈥檓 generally accepting that things are going to change and we have to witness it and act individually as responsibly as we can. But for the armchair Everest community, which is vast and vocal, this is an interesting time.

(Photo: Courtesy of Melissa Arnot Reid)

Climbing: Does it make you wish you were still guiding on Everest to bear witness firsthand to all the changes unfolding?

Reid: Through the Juniper Fund, I鈥檓 really involved in the worst side of the industry because we get involved as soon as there鈥檚 been a tragedy and we stay really involved with those families鈥 lives really forever. I get to be really up close and I can be very honest and tell you I haven鈥檛 really had a single season pass where I鈥檝e thought, 鈥淚 just wish I were guiding on Everest right now.鈥

That鈥檚 not to say that I won鈥檛 go back. When I was guiding on Everest my first year, I was 24. I remember looking around and thinking, 鈥淚鈥檓 by 20 years the youngest guide here.鈥 So, I could take a whole 10-plus year break and come back and just be the normal age range of other guides. It would have to be really specific clients and a really specific situation for me. But I feel as involved as I want to be in it.

Climbing: Let鈥檚 talk more about your work with the Juniper Fund. What changes have you noticed since you founded this nonprofit? Have you observed any improvements or changes in the working conditions or risk level for Sherpas and other high-altitude workers?

Reid: Decline in risk is really interesting. So many of the families we serve are [impacted by] absolutely objective hazard situations鈥攁n ice fall, rock fall, a big avalanche. We are in the areas where those things occur. We have seen a huge shift in training for high-altitude workers with an emphasis on prevention from local outfitters. So, they鈥檙e training their workers to prevent the preventable things, which is excellent and is making a difference. We always have a hard time measuring, for example, the deaths that don鈥檛 occur because of preventative measures. And the numbers don鈥檛 actually tell that story very well because of the nature of accidental death.

But the conversations and the employment structures have changed a lot. It used to be foreign operators were the biggest employers of high-altitude workers, through a local agency. The largest employers [now] are local agencies who are running the entire guide service. I think the local agencies have a really close conversation with what the needs of the workers are. I can鈥檛 say that it鈥檚 better at this moment, but I do think that these conversations and the visibility have shifted a little bit.

(Photo: Courtesy Jon Mancuso Photography / Melissa Arnot Reid)聽

Climbing: Talk more about the shift in how these high-altitude workers are perceived.

Reid: We collectively used to think of Sherpa as uneducated, untrained laborers just carrying loads and it鈥檚 eminently clear now that that is just not the case. There are Nepali-born, high-altitude mountain guides who are of equal skillset to any foreign guide鈥攚orkers who have chosen this as their vocation and even have higher education, and this is where they want to be. Our landscape of understanding has changed. In supporting families with the Juniper Fund, we鈥檙e always listening to the families and grow our actions based on what they tell us: How do you feel supported? What more would you like?聽

Climbing: This work you鈥檙e doing relates to the ending of the book, which I loved: the epilogue with Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa, the son of a Sherpa who died in the mountains on a climb with you. Has Lhakpa continued climbing since your summit together in the Cascades? What has he been up to since the book ended in 2021?

Reid: He lives in Seattle and works in finance. He鈥檚 generally an adventurous guy, not specifically to climbing. I can鈥檛 speak on his behalf, but I can imagine he has a really conflicting relationship with the mountains because of his experience as a child and losing his dad when he was really young. But anybody who knows him loves him, because he鈥檚 just an exceptional, bright person and a wonderful human to have in the world.

Climbing: Does this make you want to write another book at some point? Or do you have any other big goal that you鈥檙e shifting your focus to next?

Reid: I鈥檓 interested to see how the book is received, because it isn鈥檛 going to be the book people think it鈥檚 going to be. How it鈥檚 received doesn鈥檛 really impact what it means to me because it鈥檚 so important to me.

But yes, I have another book that I am working on already. In 2016, right after I summited Everest without oxygen, I did a trip with Maddie Miller, a girl who I was mentoring. We climbed the high points of all the states, so the 50 high points in 41 days, 16 hours, and 10 minutes. And Maddie set the speed record at that time. We documented it, but we have a lot of stories from that experience. And it鈥檚 really like Maddie鈥檚 coming-of-age story as a 21-year-old in her last year of college. I鈥檓 really hoping to be able to bring that story out to the world because comparatively to Enough, it鈥檚 a fun adventure challenge.

Excerpt from 贰苍辞耻驳丑听by Melissa Arnot Reid

Excerpted from ENOUGH: Climbing Toward a True Self on Mount Everest by Melissa Arnot Reid. Copyright 漏 2025 by Melissa Arnot Reid LLC. Published in the United States by Crown, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC.

You can purchase Enough or wherever books are sold.

Obama and the Dalai Lama and Americans wouldn鈥檛 be given any more visas that season.

I exhaled with grateful relief. A change in plans I could deal with. 鈥淒on鈥檛 say it鈥檚 bad news unless someone died!鈥 I joked.

The change meant that climbing from Tibet was out, so Pasang and I decided we would climb the route in front of us, on the south side of Everest. We were here and that was all that we could do, so we might as well enjoy it.

That night, I fell into a restless high-altitude sleep. I woke up every hour, hoping that when I opened my eyes the first light of dawn would have arrived. When it finally did, it came with the distant clamor of voices on the radio. I peeked out of my tent to see Dawa waving his hands and frantically motioning me to come up to his tent. I put on my down jacket and boots and headed up, unsure what the urgency was about.

鈥淢eli, there was an accident. A big one. All Sherpas.鈥 He paused and I watched his Adam鈥檚 apple bob as he attempted to swallow. 鈥淢any are dead.鈥 The words hung in space until he loudly exhaled. 鈥淐an you go up? They need help.鈥

I took a breath to calm the flood of adrenaline that rose within me. Of course I would go. I assumed the familiar role of responder that I had practiced in my medical work, calm and intentional with my movement. I hastily departed to get dressed, planning to climb up to the accident site and help however I could. I 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 have a harness or crampons, so I borrowed them from another climber and went straight to the helipad at the edge of camp, where all the rescuers had assembled. Since I had significant medical training and experience, it was quickly decided that I would fly up first with medical equipment. No one was totally sure what had happened at the accident site, but what little news we had was grim. A large number of local workers had been climbing together when the avalanche came swiftly down on top of them. Some were dead.

Some were missing. And some were injured and desperate for care.

I boarded the helicopter, and a moment later we left solid ground and headed into something unimaginable. Tragedy was not new, nor was my facing it. Nearly every season that I had worked on Everest had included some sort of rescue or an up-close view of a tragic accidental death. That was part of the deal with the biggest mountains in the world. But I had never seen, nor even imagined, death on this scale. I had no time to wonder what it would be like鈥擨 just went in, closing my heart to the truth of what was in front of me and doing the job I was asked to do. Like so many times before, I knew I needed to seal off my emotions and do the task at hand. I could sort through the tragedy of it all later, and I would.

(Photo: Courtesy of Melissa Arnot Reid)

April 18, 2014

The air feels whisper thin and unoccupied. I stop, holding my own breath to see what I can hear. Nothing. Not a crack, nor a creak. Not even the sound of stillness. Here, everything is gone. Life is gone. It is as though something or someone has pressed pause on this moment in time and I am somehow allowed to look around and feel the absence of everything. Newton said that energy cannot be created or destroyed; it can only be transferred or changed from one form to another. I have felt that transfer many times, something turning into something else with the flip of a switch. But I wonder if Newton ever dreamed of something like this, a place where the earth opens and absorbs all the energy, leaving no trace of it behind.

The borrowed crampons on my feet are heavy and unfamiliar. But they talk to the glacier ice in the same familiar conversation of crunching and piercing, offering some comfort. I am at almost 20,000 feet and my lungs are burning like structure fires, telling me to slow down. The sound of my breath and the booming of blood flow is filling my ears now like the white noise of an ocean

in chaos. It is not rhythmic. It is not peaceful. I move quickly, following the chucks of broken ice and the splashes of red blood that are smattered about. A backpack rests near a crimson stain in the snow. I don鈥檛 know who it belongs to. I wonder if he lived or died. I keep moving, up and then down, covering every inch of the area in search of something missed. I am both eager to find something and dreading what it will be. And then, I see him. Upside down, suspended by the rope and the universe. Stopped right there and buried partially under hundreds of pounds of ice; entombed. I stop, allowing my breath to ease enough to speak. Keying the mic on the radio, I relay the news that I have found another one. We need to go check it out. The other rescuers rush from behind me, climbing up the slight incline around giant crevasses and blocks of ice, and continue to the broken battlefield ahead. I stay where I am, watching over them. I feel the weight of what might happen next pulling at us all. It feels like the mountain has only partially exhaled, and there is more to come. I do not want to be caught in her breath or see another life absorbed into her flanks. I will my soul to communicate with hers as I scour the slopes for any sign of movement. A helicopter lands below me and I see another body wrapped tightly, small and life- less. It is loaded in and flown away. It is wrong to be seeing death on this scale. Stacks of bodies, ponds of blood, wails of loss. This is the stuff of war. This is for people who signed up for the pos- sibility of carnage and had a moment to decide how they would handle it. But as that thought floats through, another comes to rest. Carnage is about the element of surprise. It is about accept- ing small losses over and over until one day you are faced with a loss you cannot ignore. A loss of size and scale you could not have even imagined.

Within a few hours, the final body has been freed from its icy tomb and wrapped and laid next to the others, waiting its turn to be loaded into the helicopter. We climb in and for a moment I feel a small sprig of gratitude that we are alive. Then I feel guilty and selfish for feeling anything good.

As we reintroduce ourselves to the rest of Base Camp, we cannot be understood. We are new people now. The others want to know what we saw. They want to feel grateful, too, that it was not them. But what can be said about death on this scale?

The Tibetans believe that a goddess lives inside every mountain. The one inside Everest is called Myosangmalangma, and she is extraordinary. She is fierce and powerful, riding on top of a wild white tiger that she has tamed. She is generous, holding a mongoose that spits gold coins and a basket of fruit that she willingly shares. She is different from the goddess that they believe resides in K2, Takar Dolsangma. That goddess is angry and has the taste for human flesh, which she will take to satiate her hunger. But not Myosangmalangma. If she takes a life, it is not for hunger, it is to teach you something. I wonder if I will learn the lesson she is offering. I wonder if I even can.

As night falls on the end of this horrific day, I look up at her moonlit flanks. She has taken so much, but she is quiet now. I do not feel anger toward her. I wonder what she is trying to say. I can feel her protective qualities, casting out over us all again, even amidst this great loss. I can sense her generosity still dormant under the veneer of terror she has cast. I silently make her a promise that I will listen. I am paying attention. With a settling crack, the icefall adjusts its position once more. I feel the vibration under my feet, and I feel her exhale in my soul. I breathe a deep breath, letting the air absorb into my body and exhaling gratitude back to her.

* * *

The details of the accident became more and more tragic as we pieced them back together. The Sherpas had been climbing up in the early

hours of the previous morning when they arrived at one of the metal ladders that were placed to help cross the gaping crevasses. It was broken, making the route impassable, and they shed their loads to wait for the icefall doctors to come fix it.* They pulled out their thermoses and cigarettes and snacks and huddled together in a sort of dogpile to stay warm. A thunderous crack ripped through the sky. Two thousand feet above, an ice block the size of a suburban house calved off the cliff and careened down, breaking apart and spewing destruction in every direc- tion. The men were buried. Those who tried to run were hit by ice chunks or knocked into crevasses hundreds of feet deep. The seven men who stayed huddled were crushed under the ice and under one another and mostly suffocated.

It was a tragedy that would affect every village in some way and bring the climbing season to a halt. Workers demanded a better safety net for their families if they were going to do such a dangerous job. Women in villages threatened to bring all the children and leave them at Base Camp if their husbands climbed. I sat with Pasang as we both cried. She had lost an uncle and knew almost every one of the sixteen who died. I knew six of them well after years of working alongside them on this very mountain. One was Ang Tshering, the Camp Two cook who had so tenderly helped me after Chhewang died.

I wondered how things might have been different for us if Pasang and I had our climbing gear. Would we have been caught too? I chose not to dwell on this what-if and instead decided to return home.

I stayed in Nepal for a week after we returned from the mountains to Kathmandu. I cried every day and felt empty and helpless. My sleep was interrupted by images of the ice splattered with blood. I would wake up wanting to flee from myself but with nowhere to go. By the time I got home to Idaho, I had placed all my feelings on a shelf with a label.

鈥淭hings No One Can Understand鈥 and met everyone with quietness. I had spent a huge part of my adult life facing traumas on the ambulance and in the mountains, but this was on a scale that was much harder to wrestle down in my mind and soul. With Jon, I was icy, distant. I 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 even attempt to let him close. His best friend was getting married that May and he was excited that I could join him at the wedding now that I was back early. I resented his excitement and looked at him with disgust that he could find a bright side to something so horrific.

Truthfully, he 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 know what to do. Who would? He offered me all the space I needed but I greedily took more, wanting to be surrounded by only my own thoughts. I decided to ride my bike alone across Montana instead of going to the wedding, replacing one discomfort for another in the rhythm of survival that had brought me here. I started to seriously wonder if here was where I even wanted to be. How long would I be able to avoid the truth that was crashing down around me, a serac of its own?

*The icefall doctors are a group of Sherpas who are paid by every team to set the ropes and ladders in the icefall only. They don鈥檛 go above Camp Two but instead work to keep the ever-changing route passable.

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Finally! Climbing Will Have 3 Medal Categories at 2028 Olympics /outdoor-adventure/climbing/olympics-climbing-2028/ Sun, 13 Apr 2025 08:02:12 +0000 /?p=2700750 Finally! Climbing Will Have 3 Medal Categories at 2028 Olympics

Lead and bouldering split, as competitive climbers breathe a collective sigh of relief

The post Finally! Climbing Will Have 3 Medal Categories at 2028 Olympics appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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Finally! Climbing Will Have 3 Medal Categories at 2028 Olympics

The International Olympic Committee Board announced this week that it plans to split up the lead and boulder climbing disciplines in the 2028 Summer Games in Los Angeles. Compared to Paris 2024, the 2028 Olympics will admit nearly 12% more climbing athletes鈥76, instead of 68鈥攁nd offer three additional climbing medals.

Sport climbing鈥檚 Olympic presence has come a long way since its 2021 debut. In the Tokyo Olympics, the three disciplines of lead, boulder, and speed were awkwardly combined into one super discipline that required athletes to compete across all disciplines. The combined format proved a massive challenge for some specialized climbers. For example, in Tokyo, Adam Ondra took second in lead, but placed fourth in speed and sixth in boulder. For a moment, it looked like Ondra would win gold, but was such that Alberto Gin茅s L贸pez took the gold by placing first in speed, seventh in boulder, and fourth in lead. (Scores were determined by multiplying the scoring results of each discipline.)

In 2024, things improved: the IOC separated the hyper-specialized discipline of speed climbing, but kept lead and boulder lumped together. The climbing community鈥斺攕till felt that none of these disciplines ought to be grouped together.

According to the , the International Olympic Committee (IOC) explained that specific athlete quotas for the 2028 Games across the three events will 鈥渂e finalized in the Olympic Qualification System.鈥 This will also clarify whether climbers can compete in multiple events.

natalia grossman in bouldering competition
Natalia Grossman competes during the Women鈥檚 Boulder Lead Semifinal at the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris (Photo: Al Bello / Getty Images)

鈥淚鈥檓 really excited about the news that all three disciplines will be separate at the 2028 Summer Olympics,鈥 says Natalia Grossman, who competed in the lead/boulder event in 2024. 鈥淔rom the very beginning, the community has been pushing for three sets of medals鈥攁nd now we鈥檝e finally got them!鈥

Jesse Grupper, who also competed in lead/boulder in the 2024 Games, felt similarly. 鈥淪ince climbing first became a discipline in the Olympics, this event has always pushed athletes to conform to the disciplines decided on by the Olympics,鈥 says Grupper. 鈥淭his marks a new era where the core disciplines of climbing are determining what happens at the Olympics and not the other way round. As an athlete with a focus in lead, I鈥檓 over the moon to have an opportunity to vie for a spot to do what I love on the biggest stage in the world.鈥

Another exciting development in Olympic climbing is the at the 2028 Games. Significant groundwork has already been laid in establishing classifications for the rollout of paralympic climbing in Los Angeles.

In addition to its announcement regarding the new climbing format on Wednesday, the IOC revealed a number of other changes for the LA 2028 Games. of these changes is to achieve better gender parity. For example, the number of women鈥檚 football (soccer) teams increased to 16, while the quota for men鈥檚 soccer teams decreased to 12, swinging the gender imbalance in the other direction. The IOC also announced a new weight class for women boxers, and added five new sports, including cricket, flag football, and lacrosse.

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The 19 Funniest Mountain Project Comments on Yosemite Routes /outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountain-project-comments/ Sun, 06 Apr 2025 08:32:18 +0000 /?p=2700255 The 19 Funniest Mountain Project Comments on Yosemite Routes

鈥淩oute is much easier if you hire a mule鈥

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The 19 Funniest Mountain Project Comments on Yosemite Routes

Sometimes, we go to Mountain Project for the beta. But sometimes, we go for the chat. And sometimes, the chat is funny. We鈥檝e seen brawls break out over bolts and grades. Stoke-spangled reviews鈥攁nd ho-hum appraisals of testpieces. Crusty cameos. Sketchy ethics. And non-sequiturs that add to the lore of the classics.

Here are 19 of the funniest Mountain Project comments on classic routes in Yosemite.

Note: All comments are only very lightly edited for grammar to retain the casual forum feel and the voice of each commenting climber.

鈥淗ow many days does this take most people. I can preaty [sic] much do a 5.10 blind-folded.鈥
鈥擲cott Morrison

鈥淕reat route. Few people know that the name comes from the Gogol short story. A man loses his nose, only to find out it had been baked into a loaf bread and subsequently masquerading around town as a local official.鈥
鈥擲endasaurus Rex

鈥淭his is it folks. The grand-daddy of all shit shows. Score Instagram content as you stand in ladders on perfect hand cracks. Witness behavior that can only be comparable to that seen at the airport on Thanksgiving day. Lastly, make sure to stroke the ego of NIAD鈥檈rs as they go by.鈥
鈥擲un Dawg

鈥淒reams Transcending!! The Force is strong with this one!鈥
鈥擬ike Holley

鈥淭his seems like an absurd route. I watched the movie and it looked awful and not fun at all.鈥
鈥擥iancarlo Rhodes

鈥淚 thought this climb sucked. I hope the rest of is better. We did Beggars Buttress and the Rostrum on the same trip. Both were way better. Maybe my expectations were too high for Freeblast, but considering the location and history you can understand why. Most of the climbing was forgettable awkward or just plain blah.鈥
鈥擧别辫辫苍别谤诲

鈥淩oute is much easier if you hire a mule to carry your stuff up to the rock. Some may call it cheating. I call it smart.鈥
鈥擲ean Cobourn

鈥淎fter years of having wet dreams about this route, I was finally offered a chance to make a push for the summit on my 26th birthday. May 2nd, 2015. The spring is running strong and is the best and coldest water you will ever taste. I promise.鈥
鈥擬isterCattell Cattell

鈥淚 climbed this 27 years ago. I brought my bagpipe up with me and I think I played Bonnie Charlie from the top. They say it was heard in the valley. Note I am not Celtic. Anyway the climb was fun if a lot of extra hiking up and down. I think with all the traffic, someone soloing might get knock off by the crowd.鈥
鈥攄驳别濒尘补苍

鈥淲ow, there are a lot of redundant comments. Here鈥檚 a new one: **Don鈥檛 piss in the hole you heathens! Traversing over a few feet and peeing on blank rock that no one touches would be better than filling the hole at the belay.鈥
鈥擪ristoffer Schmarr

鈥淚 got a severe off-the-couch ass-whipping on this one in the early `80s despite being pretty solid on Yosemite 5.9 of the time on hexes and stoppers and yarded and rested on any and everything I could. Was jello by the end of the second day (originally was rated Grade VI, 5.9 A4/5 (?) one of the first in Yosemite). Still a testpiece no matter how you get up it by all recent reports.鈥
鈥擪ing Tut

鈥淚 took Stefan Glowacz here early `90s and he couldn鈥檛 touch it. He rapped off by threading the rope through a bolt hanger (!). I belayed on the FA and he was doing shit with his feet I 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 understand.鈥
鈥擩oe Hedge

鈥淩ap rings on the summit? C鈥檓on, John Muir soloed up and down it with clogs made of granite. Okay it was leather boots, but still, if an old Scot can do it without sticky rubber, I think you can do it with sticky rubber.鈥
鈥擩iggs Casey

鈥淥hhh my Buddha! Just did this route, late March 2016, and it was truly an epic and educational experience to say the least. Long approach, which is made much more grueling with haul bags. Essentially, every single pitch was seeping with water (some even mistakable for waterfalls) and the slippery wet exposed third-class top-out was most terrifying (with haul bags on back)! The 11c pitches were pretty stout, had to pull through gear on most cruxes 鈥 To make life much simpler I would totally recommend doing this route in a day if possible. Climbing is climbing though and overall it was still fun as biscuits!鈥
鈥擬ike Holley

鈥淭his spike of adrenaline due to wasp nest makes the climb significantly easier and may consider as use of doping. I propose to change rating of Waverly back to original 10c, while wasp is active.鈥
鈥擜lexey Zelditch

鈥淵ou are so right about the ants. :< I almost got eaten alive 鈥 my partner had to basically use me as a punching bag for over 10 minutes just to get all the ants off me 鈥 I think the ants got out some rage on me 鈥 It鈥檚 funny that some actually made it up to Dinner Ledge with me in my draws and they seem to know when you鈥檙e making a hard move.鈥
鈥擠wook Nicholson

鈥淧artied on Dinner Ledge for my birthday a couple weekends back (weekend of 4/15). 12 fucking people up there! We drank tequila and beers, smoked some herb, watched Ryan lead the Kor Roof at night. It was fucking awesome!鈥
鈥擬ax McKee

鈥淲ow 鈥 just super major woooooooow 鈥 if I could rename this route I would call it 鈥渨hat even is this life?鈥 I was just that impressed with this climb. It really is so crazy how accurate it is that everyone I talk to about this route says it鈥檚 probably their favorite route ever. Every Yosemite climber needs to climb this route.鈥
鈥擜ndrew Upchurch

鈥淧itches like this almost make me believe in a higher power.鈥
鈥擲keletor 69

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The Untold Story of the First All-Women Team Who Summited Denali 55 Years Ago /outdoor-adventure/exploration-survival/first-all-female-ascent-denali/ Sun, 16 Mar 2025 08:50:06 +0000 /?p=2698752 The Untold Story of the First All-Women Team Who Summited Denali 55 Years Ago

The new book "Thirty Below" tells the tale

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The Untold Story of the First All-Women Team Who Summited Denali 55 Years Ago

In 1970, six women made the first all-female ascent of Denali. Alaskan mountaineer Grace Hoemen led the team, which included talented climber and chemist Arlene Blum, New Zealand geologist Margaret Clark, and pilot (and Forbes family pariah) Margaret Young.

Last week, the story of this historic achievement came into full focus with the March 4 release of , written by award-winning adventure writer . In her new book, Randall recounts the tale of the Denali climb, as well as the many challenges the female alpinists faced, from extreme winds and storm conditions, to a high-risk self-rescue, to the many insults of their male compatriots, like 鈥渘o way dames could ever make it up that bitch.鈥

The whole team on Denali (Photo: Margaret Young)

Yet the women succeeded in summiting the West Buttress route. While Hoeman and Blum were skilled enough to take on a more technical line on , they also knew that the stakes were high. 鈥淎n all-women鈥檚 ascent had never been done before,鈥 Randall explains. 鈥淭hey were鈥攁s are many boundary breakers who bear the burden of proving not just their own capability, but the capability of the entire demographic to which they belong鈥攔epresenting all women on this climb.鈥

Furthermore, Randall emphasizes that this 鈥渓ess technical鈥 line was anything but easy鈥攅specially back in the day, with heavy loads of unwieldy equipment. 鈥淭he route still presented hidden crevasses big enough to swallow a bus, icefall, avalanches, and steep ridges that dropped off thousands of feet,鈥 Randall says.

Whiteout conditions on the climb (Photo: Margaret Young)

We caught up with Randall to find out why this story hasn鈥檛 been told until now and what surprised her in her research. Below the Q&A, we also include an excerpt from Thirty Below.听

Thirty Below author Cassidy Randall

Q&A: Thirty Below Author Cassidy Randall

Climbing: What inspired you to tell the story of the first all-female ascent of Denali in book form?

Cassidy Randall: One morning in February of 2022, snow fell outside my window in Montana as I opened an email from my agent with a link to a National Park Service blog post. 鈥淚s there a good story here?鈥 she鈥檇 written. Clicking on it transported me to a different snowy world half a century ago: 1970 on the slopes of Denali. That year, six women made for its wind-hammered summit in the first all-female ascent of North America鈥檚 tallest peak.

This was no small thing. By 1970, we had sent men to the moon, but women had yet to stand on top of the world鈥檚 highest mountains. Popular belief held that they were incapable of withstanding high altitudes, savage elements, and carrying heavy loads up storm-ravaged slopes. I鈥檇 been writing about adventure and women鈥檚 issues in the outdoors for several years by then. Yet I鈥檇 never heard of this audacious, boundary-breaking climb.

Who were these women? And had enough accounts survived to tell the tale? In my research, it became clear that not only was this Denali climb the first all-women鈥檚 summit of any of the world鈥檚 high peaks鈥攊t was an improbable tale of survival. And yet it had escaped widespread notice and thus disappeared from our collective consciousness.

鈥淗istoric firsts are important as they set the bar for what is possible,鈥 the NPS post read. 鈥淭he stories of these firsts sometimes become common knowledge in certain communities, or grow into legend, while some feats fade as time passes.鈥

I considered it past time this historic first, and the people who were part of it, received their due.

Climber Faye Kerr in a snow cave

Climbing: Why is this an important story to tell right now?

Randall: Female figures in mainstream adventure and exploration literature, in the vein of Touching the Void and Into Thin Air, are shockingly slim. There remains a void of strong and complex women in the canon: stories of female mettle, bravery, curiosity, and impact鈥攐n how we see the world, what we know of the world, and what we are capable of in it. These six are some of those women that history unjustly forgot, though they deserved a lasting place in the annals of adventure. There are no doubt many more stories like theirs, perhaps waiting for the one that opens the floodgates to all the rest.

Also, we鈥檙e still in an era where women sometimes aren鈥檛 allowed to be complex. Too often, we鈥檙e only meant to play the roles we鈥檝e been historically assigned: lone heroine, damsel in distress, princess, witch. We鈥檙e supposed to be likable, or villainized for being unlikable. Far from a fairy tale exploit with clear-cut saints and sinners, Thirty Below explores the complicated dynamics of real and complex individuals on their own arcs of development: the stakes each were facing, what emotional weight they were carrying up the mountain, the pressures they were under.

And regardless of the timeliness of gender equality鈥攊t鈥檚 just a damn good story, one that reminds us that it鈥檚 possible to do the things that everyone else believes are impossible.

a climber stands on the summit during the first all female ascent of Denali
Margaret Young on the summit (Photo: Margaret Young)

Climbing: What鈥檚 your own experience on Denali or in the mountains?

Randall: I鈥檓 not an alpinist. For Thirty Below, I 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 climb Denali. I already know from other mountain climbing that my body doesn鈥檛 do well at altitude. But I am a backcountry skier who dabbles in ski mountaineering, so I understand the call of the mountains. I鈥檝e been on multi-day expeditions with a small team of people, and I鈥檝e been in wilderness situations where I thought I might die, including in Alaska鈥檚 Brooks Range. I spent several days at the end of the road at Wonder Lake in Denali鈥檚 shadow, flew around it in a bush plane, hung out in Talkeetna with famed bush pilot Don Sheldon鈥檚 daughter Holly, and, obviously, spoke with and spent time with so many people who climbed the mountain in that era.

I have imposter syndrome around not being a true mountaineer myself. But then I think it allows me to hit the sweet spot between carrying the same kind of awe that average people do when they think of accomplishments like this, and the almost blas茅 attitude that those of us who are steeped in these pursuits tend to inevitably adopt.

Climbing: What surprised you about women climbers when researching and writing this story?

Randall: It鈥檚 wild to me that still in 1970, people truly thought women were incapable of climbing mountains without men鈥檚 help. The outrageous things women had to deal with in trying to break into the climbing world are appalling. I wrote about some of those incidents in Thirty Below to illustrate what an audacious idea this Denali ascent was at the time. And stories about the few women who had broken into mountaineering weren鈥檛 widely told, so even women immersed in that world, like Grace and Arlene, knew of few role models who鈥檇 come before them.

Climbing: Is there one unforgettable quote that you found from your research?

Randall: There are some great ones from the insults these women faced leading up to the climb, including 鈥渘o way dames could ever make it up that bitch,鈥 they had 鈥渋llusions and grandeur鈥 and 鈥渓ight experience,鈥 鈥渨omen climbers either aren鈥檛 good climbers or they aren鈥檛 real women,鈥 and 鈥渨omen should be able to climb McKinley more readily than men鈥攁fter all, they have all that extra insulation.鈥

Thirty Below Excerpt

Below is an excerpt from Chapter Two of Thirty Below, courtesy of Abrams Press.

In 1967, Alaskan mountaineer and doctor Grace Hoeman was the only woman on an Alaskan expedition to summit Denali. By this time, we were racing to send men to the moon, and women still hadn鈥檛 stood on the highest points on Earth. Popular belief held that they were incapable of withstanding high altitudes, savage elements, and carrying heavy loads without men鈥檚 help. On that expedition, the team leader turned Grace back midway up the mountain claiming he suspected she was suffering from altitude sickness鈥攅ven though a nightmare storm had broken over the summit, several mountaineers from another party above had disappeared in it, and a doctor might be critically needed for those men. That incident, along with the one below to recover the bodies of the climbers who ended up dying in that storm, would help spur Grace to develop a bold idea: to lead the first all-women鈥檚 team up the great mountain.

That fateful summer of 1967, Grace鈥檚 husband Vin returned to civilization from Mount Logan on July 31 to news of the tragedy on Denali鈥攁ll seven climbers at the top dead in a savage storm鈥攁nd the relief that his wife was not among them. She was safe. But the mysteries left as to the decisions that led to those men鈥檚 deaths spurred Vin, a member of the Alaska Rescue Group, to organize a climb to the summit to learn what he could, and try to identify and bury the bodies. He pulled together a six-person expedition that included Grace, who was again the only woman. It was a humanitarian expedition. It was also Grace鈥檚 second chance at Denali.听

On August 19, after climbers and supplies had been organized and a weather window opened up, Alaskan bush pilot Don Sheldon flew the team straight into the Kahiltna Glacier at 9,800 feet to start climbing鈥攏early three thousand feet above the usual base camp elevation. The group climbed to Windy Corner at over thirteen thousand feet the following day.听

Grace again felt sick. Her pack was too heavy, she thought. She popped medications to sleep. She went back down to base camp with Vin and another teammate for a gear carry. Vin encouraged her to climb Mount Capps with them as a side trip, a 10,790-foot peak at the head of the Kahiltna Glacier. She did. And then was too weak to accompany the men back up to Windy Corner. In a nightmarish repetition of her ill-fated expedition the month before, the men refused to wait for her to recover enough to continue. Although there was no urgency this time鈥攖he men at the summit had already perished鈥擵in left her in a leaky tent on the glacier at the base camp, alone, with only the wind and heavy snow for company.

鈥淚鈥檒l have to tell the world again of my failure,鈥 she wrote in her journal, shivering in the bleak tent. 鈥淚t would have meant the world to me to go up that mountain again and DO it. And my husband knew it鈥he park will never give me permission to climb again.鈥

Sheldon flew in the next day to the base camp to collect Grace and the boxes left there for a higher supply drop. As the plane circled above, Grace noted that the team hadn鈥檛, in fact, made much progress without her. She dropped the boxes from the sky for them, and then was flown back to Anchorage, to be alone in her home once more.

So much new snow had fallen over the last month that Vin鈥檚 team could not locate any trace of the men who鈥檇 died. It remains the worst disaster ever to occur on Denali. In the months and years following, the Wilcox expedition would be would be excoriated for its choices, personal dynamics, and infighting as possible contributors to the tragedy, and rescuers and the park service would re-evaluate everything they knew about rescue on the mountain.听

The incident also no doubt caused many outside the climbing community to question: why would anyone climb mountains at all? Why, through the ache of cold and hunger and exhaustion, when avalanches and storms and falls claim companions and lovers, wreak injury on bodies and sometimes minds from the trauma of disasters like the one Grace lived through, when chances of even making it to the top are slim鈥攚hy leave the comfort of home to risk all that? Why risk their lives at the hands of such a great and powerful wild?

Some would say it鈥檚 because, at its simplest, it鈥檚 in our genes. More specifically, it鈥檚 in one particular variant of a dopamine receptor gene, called DRD4-7R, carried by an estimated twenty percent of all humans. Studies have isolated 7R as the driver behind what makes people more likely to take risks, seek novelty like exploring new places and experiences, and pursue adventure. But if you ask those devoted to mountains鈥攆rom rock climbers to backcountry skiers to mountaineers鈥攎any will tell you it鈥檚 more ephemeral, more foundational, more beatific than some biological mechanism. That it鈥檚 not science.听

It鈥檚 magic.

Some climb mountains to test themselves, to prove their strength and skill鈥攖o themselves or others. Some, in attempting more dangerous routes, are after the quicksilver rush of adrenaline. With the lungs rinsed with the high clear air and burning with the work of movement, the blood brims with endorphins. Perhaps there鈥檚 a kind of addiction involved in going back, over and over, for the high, the rush, the rapture.听

Some will say it鈥檚 bigger than that. That the feeling of true awe that mountains provide transcends the self, so that even our perception of time changes and we feel part of something bigger. Absent the distractions of cities and obligations, ringing phones and jobs, when life is pared down to the simplicity of waking, sustaining oneself, and moving forward and upward, the human-made veil between us and the natural world begins, magnificently, to dissolve.听

Some scale mountains because there鈥檚 a kind of meditation in moving鈥攁nd in the presence of risk. The proximity to the thin line between life and death at the hands of the volatile elements of this Earth demands an ultimate presence: the kind of presence that some meditate for hours and lifetimes to achieve. Walking that teetering edge of mortality鈥攚here our own decisions and will and capability determine our fate鈥攊s where we feel the most alive. And at the end of it all, riding the tail of the experience before inevitable re-entry into the 鈥渞eal鈥 world, is the closest we come to grace.听

Once we鈥檝e had a taste of it, we often make sacrifices to return to the mountains. What others might see as a kind of madness, true believers see as a quest for an elusive peace in the devotion to the vertical wall, the towering mountain, to the terrible, beautiful wild.

On clear days from Anchorage, Denali is visible towering impossibly above the horizon: a regular reminder to Grace of her failure, at the same time it was a constant reminder of the mountain鈥檚 spectacular presence. Of a summit that, after everything, still beckoned from its impossible heights.

The women descending (Photo: Margaret Clark)

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The 9 Best Utah State Parks, Ranked /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-utah-state-parks/ Mon, 10 Mar 2025 09:00:58 +0000 /?p=2697958 The 9 Best Utah State Parks, Ranked

From Bear Lake to Snow Canyon, these are our desert expert's coolest places to romp around outside

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The 9 Best Utah State Parks, Ranked

The national parks of Utah usually steal the thunder, but don鈥檛 forget about its state parks. Utah has 46 state parks, and there are some serious gems among them. I鈥檝e rounded up nine of my favorites, ranked.

I do want to add a disclaimer that, while I’ve visited every park on this list, I haven鈥檛 gotten a chance to visit all the state parks in Utah yet. A few on the top of my list are Goblin Valley, Dead Horse Point (where I would love to go mountain biking), and our state鈥檚 newest park: Utahraptor. Established in 2021, will stage its grand opening this spring. Visitors can explore an area where more than 5,500 dinosaur bones have been found, including those of the park鈥檚 namesake. The park also has a new campground and trails for hiking, mountain biking, and off-roading鈥攁nd preserves the historic site of a former Japanese internment camp.

But back to the state parks on this list鈥攆or each park, I鈥檝e shared my favorite adventure, the best time of year to go, and some local tips for maximizing your time. While individual park fees vary, if you plan to visit more than five or six state parks in the next 12 months and you鈥檙e a Utah resident, it makes sense to purchase a ($125). Finally, all of Utah’s state park reservations can be made through the site up to four months in advance.

9. Great Salt Lake State Park, Magna

a collection of cairns by a lake
Cairns along the shore at Great Salt Lake State Park (Photo: Maya Silver)

Specs: 162 acres, with access to the 1,000,000+ acre lake

Best For: Boating, wandering, learning, bird watching

While not the most idyllic environment, the Great Salt Lake is a defining feature of the state of Utah and this is the perfect place to learn about it. The mostly consists of the marina, shoreline, a campground, and a short trail. If you鈥檙e interested in learning more about this bizarre, saline environment, the visitor鈥檚 center here is the best place to start.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 in Great Salt Lake State Park

Rent a tandem kayak at the marina through (from $40 for two hours) and paddle out to explore the biggest saltwater lake in the Western Hemisphere. Bring binoculars and see how many birds you can spot. Millions of birds visit the lake each year to feast on brine flies鈥攎ore on that below.

When to Go

The park is open year-round, but it鈥檚 most pleasant in the fall. hatch from April and stick around through November. Mid-spring can be a particularly nasty and unpleasant time to be on the lake or its shores due to the bugs. Call ahead to check on the fly status.

Local Pointers for Great Salt Lake State Park

The nearby historic Saltair is just a couple miles from the park (a five-minute drive) and is a strange and interesting site to check out. First built in 1893, the recreational building has been the victim of fire and flooding over the years, with several reconstruction efforts over the years as a result. Today, it mainly serves as a .

8. Anasazi State Park Museum, Boulder

A kiva in the desert
A replica of a kiva at Anasazi State Park Museum (Photo: Maya Silver)

Specs: 6 acres

Best For: Learning

This is not your ordinary state park鈥攊t鈥檚 actually a museum located on the historic site of what was once a large Ancestral Puebloan village. Puebloans lived on these lands from 1050 to 1200 C.E. At , you can tour remnants of the original site, explore a replica of an ancient dwelling, and see artifacts excavated from the site itself. The museum is located in tiny, quirky Boulder, one of the gateway towns to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 in Anasazi State Park Museum

While the artifacts inside the museum are interesting, I most enjoyed walking around the original site and the replica of a kiva. I visited on a cold November day and it was fascinating to imagine living in this landscape in a round, subterranean structure year-round, staying warm by fire.

When to Go

You won鈥檛 want to travel all the way to Boulder, Utah, for this museum鈥攎ost likely, you鈥檒l be tacking it on to a trip to Grand Staircase-Escalante. While the museum is open year-round, the best times of year to explore the national monument are early fall and mid to late-spring.

Local Pointers for Anasazi State Park Museum

This museum is within spitting distance of , a James Beard-nominated restaurant, and in my opinion, the best in Utah. Open seasonally (usually mid-March through early November), the grill is a mandatory stop for breakfast or dinner. The grill is located at the Boulder Mountain Lodge, if you鈥檙e looking for accommodations in the area, too.

7. Jordanelle State Park, Park City

a stand up paddleboard on a reservoir in the mountains
Stand-up paddleboarding near the Rock Cliff entrance at the Jordanelle (Photo: Maya Silver)

Specs: 6,704 Acres

Best For: Beaching, boating, fishing, grilling, camping

Utah鈥檚 Wasatch Back鈥攖he backside of the Wasatch Mountains鈥攈as a number of reservoirs that are managed as state parks with high-quality fishing, boating, and beaching. Echo, Deer Creek, and Rockport are all fine options, but by far the largest and most developed in terms of infrastructure is the Jordanelle. With three separate recreational areas and 363,000 acre feet of water, this reservoir offers a beach-like experience with plenty of opportunities for every stripe of boater, from jet skiing to SUPing.

has three separate entrance areas. Hailstone is the main marina and by far the most developed with cabanas, pavilions, several campground options, and even cabins for overnight rentals. While Hailstone makes sense if you鈥檝e got a big crew, my favorite area is Rock Cliff near Heber, with a nature center, a boardwalk through wetlands, and trails. There鈥檚 also the quieter Ross Creek entrance, with cabanas, a non-motorized boat ramp, and a perimeter trailhead. But if sand and boating are your main objectives, Hailstone is the place to be.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 in Jordanelle State Park

SUPing is my favorite way to experience this massive reservoir. On a hot day, it鈥檚 a fun way to cool off and you can get on the water without waiting in a line of boats. You can bring your own SUP, kayak, or other boat to take out on the Jordanelle. Or you can rent a kayak, SUP, jet ski, or boat from the marina at the Hailstone area through (pontoons start at $499 for four hours; kayaks start at $30 for one hour; full pricing and reservations available online).

When to Go

Summer is the time to be at the Jordanelle. In spring or fall, temperatures might be favorable, or it might be snowing鈥攜ou never know. The park is great year-round for hiking and peaceful waterside walks, but if you鈥檙e coming for the watersports and the beach vibes, peak summer will be prime fun.

Local Pointers for Jordanelle State Park

While there is a plethora of camping options at the Jordanelle, these sites book up months in advance. Reservations open up four months in advance of any given date, so set a reminder for yourself to make reservations on your calendar. Or use a site like to snag a campsite when someone cancels. Also consider what type of camping experience you want鈥攖he Jordanelle offers RV campgrounds, tent-only campgrounds, group campgrounds, and the hike-in Phostan Bay Campground. There are also five cabins available to rent as well as three cottages that sleep up to eight. If you鈥檙e only coming for the day, but want a cabana, you should聽reserve that well in advance, too.

6. Wasatch Mountain State Park, Midway

a mountain biker on a trail with grass and trees
Riding the WOW Trail in Wasatch Mountain State Park (Photo: Maya Silver)

Specs: 21,592 Acres

Best For: Hiking, mountain biking, golfing, cross-country skiing, camping

This state park is practically in my backyard (20 minutes away), so it definitely makes the list of my favorites. Within the park, you鈥檒l find campgrounds, endless trails, the Wasatch Mountain Golf Course, and the Soldier Hollow Nordic Center, which was used during the 2002 Winter Olympics.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 in Wasatch Mountain State Park

More often than not, I go to to mountain bike, usually to ride the relatively new , which tours aspen groves and fields of wildflowers. You can ride this trail as an out-and-back鈥攃limbing up some 2,400 feet, then descending back the way you came鈥攂ut most ride it as a downhill shuttle, since the climb is a grind. WOW isn鈥檛 the only ride in the park鈥攖he Dutch Hollow trails are flowy, fun and there鈥檚 plenty of road riding, too. Trail Forks has a helpful map of the riding .


When to Go

Summer is my favorite time of year to hit the trails at Wasatch Mountain State Park. Rarely do temperatures sore too hot for me to tolerate. Fall, when the foliage is popping off, is also an incredible season to hike or bike in the park. In winter, you can explore the extensive groomed cross-country skiing and tubing of Soldier Hollow. Spring is the least ideal, since trails are likely to be snow-covered or muddy.

Local Pointers for Wasatch Mountain State Park

The gateway town to this state park is Midway, which bills itself as a Little Switzerland. There are a few awesome restaurants worth checking out in town, including Lola鈥檚 Street Kitchen and Midway Mercantile. You can also have a post-ride or post-hike soak at the Homestead Crater, a 65-feet deep hot spring.

5. Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, near Kanab

sand dunes
Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park (Photo: Maya Silver)

Specs: 3,700 Acres

Best For: Wandering, ATVing, camping

You鈥檒l think you made a wrong turn on the long, narrow, dusty road that leads to . This massive dune deposit formed from Navajo sandstone rock that eroded millions of years ago. Like Great Sand Dunes in Colorado鈥攐ne of my favorite national parks鈥攖his state park is a beautiful place to roam, explore, and spend a night under a starry sky.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 in Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park

I鈥檓 not a motorized sports person, so I won’t tell you that an ATV is the best way to explore this park. For some, that may indeed be the most fun option. But I believe the best way to take in this serene and stunning landscape is on foot. Pick a point in the distance and hike to it. Grunt up hills, then rollick back down them. Spread out a blanket and read a book. Become one with the sand. You do you at the dunes.

When to Go

While the park is open year-round, this is the desert and there is no shade. It follows that the best seasons for the park are spring and fall, when you鈥檒l find moderate temperatures. In summer, you鈥檒l only be able to tolerate the heat early in the morning or at dusk. Don鈥檛 get caught out in the dunes barefoot and burn the bottoms of your feet. Winter can also be a smart time to explore this state park, when the moderate crowds thin even further. But you鈥檒l want to hike with shoes and it may be pretty chilly to camp.

No matter which season you go in, with the limited shade, be sure to bring plenty of water and sun protection, including sunscreen and UPF apparel.

Finally, as the name suggests, sunrise and sunset are spectacular times to behold the dunes blushing coral pink鈥攁nother reason to consider camping here for a night or two. But be sure to in advance.

Local Pointers for Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park

There is also good hiking and scenic driving surrounding the park. One cool and easily accessible stop off Sand Springs Road is the South Fork Indian Canyon Pictograph Site. Just a short hike from the parking area, this rock art features several figures, including twins.

4. Kodachrome Basin State Park, Cannonville

The entrance to Kodachrome Basin State Park
The entrance to Kodachrome Basin State Park (Photo: Maya Silver)

Specs: 2,240 Acres

Best For: Hiking, camping, horseback riding

This quiet, off-the-beaten-path state park is known for its 67 pillars鈥攕and pipes, in geologic terms鈥攖hat rise out of the desert landscape like geologic sentinels. makes for a nice add-on to a trip to nearby Bryce or the northwestern edge of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.

a sand pipe
A sand pipe rises above the landscape (Photo: Maya Silver)

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 in Kodachrome Basin State Park

This little state park offers three campgrounds as peaceful as they are scenic. All reservations can be made , and if you鈥檙e going on the weekend from spring through fall, book four months in advance (or as early as possible). With plenty of easily accessible, family-friendly trails nearby, it鈥檚 easy to hike around the sand pipes right from your campsite, too.

When to Go

Spring or fall are the best seasons to visit this state park. Summer can get quite hot, and winter, surprisingly cold.

Local Pointers for Kodachrome Basin State Park

If you鈥檙e more of a glamper than a camper, stay at nearby (from $250 per night) just a ten-minute drive from Kodachrome Basin. The glamping domes let you stargaze from bed and come equipped with firepits and grills so you鈥檒l feel like you鈥檙e camping, but still get to sleep in a real bed and have a bathroom. Or check out the Clear Sky Resorts domes in nearby Cannonville (from $300 per night), which are a 15-minute drive from Kodachrome Basin.

3. Bear Lake State Park, Garden City

A lake on a windy day with two kids standing in the water
A windy August day at Bear Lake State Park (Photo: Maya Silver)

Specs: 7,400 Acres

Best For: Water sports, swimming, beaching, camping

Spanning 20 miles from southern Idaho into northern Utah, is a massive body of water formed around 30,000 years ago by earthquakes. It鈥檚 known for its striking blue hue and named for the black bears that dwell in the woods nearby. When I posted photos of Bear Lake, friends asked what ocean I had visited鈥攕o if you鈥檙e looking for the seashore in Utah, this is as close as you鈥檒l get.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 in Bear Lake State Park

Even though the lake was quite choppy on the weekend I visited Bear Lake鈥攚e had to convince the marina to let us go out, since my friend was an experienced boat captain鈥攚e still had the best time. Despite the聽strong winds, sailing on those turquoise waters with hills and mountains surrounding us was a blast. The tubing was a bit like hurtling through a supersonic wind tunnel, but fun all the same.

When to Go

If you want to get in the water and bask in the beach vibes, summer is the time to go鈥攂ut it鈥檚 also when it鈥檚 most crowded. Flocks of boaters and campers descend during this season, so you鈥檒l want to and plan your trip four months in advance. If you don鈥檛 care about swimming and sun, the park is open year-round and the lake is just as dreamy to behold on a stroll through the sand in February as it is in August.

Local Pointers for Bear Lake State Park

While there is plenty of camping at Bear Lake鈥攖hough reservations fill up fast鈥攖hey are far from the most scenic or idyllic campsites in Utah. The appeal is the proximity to the shoreline, not the campsites themselves. They are quite developed and there鈥檚 not much separating you from other parties. It sort of felt like camping in a public park.

Bear Lake is also known for its locally grown raspberries, so refuel after a day on the water with a raspberry milkshake or other treat.

2. Snow Canyon State Park, Ivins

red cliffs rise up from a hill
The red rock landscape of Snow Canyon State Park (Photo: Maya Silver)

Specs: 7,400 Acres

Best For: Hiking, mountain biking, climbing, camping

Generally speaking, I am not a fan of St. George. It鈥檚 congested, a golfing hub (in a place with a water shortage), and feels like someone decided to stack as many strip malls and chain restaurants as they could in the middle of the desert. I also find it pretty disgraceful that the word 鈥淒ixie鈥 continues to stay past its welcome in this area, including in the name of the convention center and a nearby national forest.

But one reason to come to (or at least through) St. George is . The landscape rivals what you鈥檒l find in Utah鈥檚 national parks, but with much less hype.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 in Snow Canyon State Park

The takes you through sandy washes and over red rock scrambles to a cave with a keyhole-shaped opening and sweeping views. At 4.4 miles total, it鈥檚 also easily doable in a half day鈥攐r easy to sneak in at dawn or dusk if you鈥檙e visiting from late spring through early fall when the weather is super hot.

4 silhouettes of women standing in the entrance to a cave
The classic Scout Cave photo (Photo: Maya Silver)

When to Go

Early/mid-spring and late fall are the best times to visit Snow Canyon. If you don鈥檛 mind hiking in a puffy jacket, winter is also an awesome time to get your desert fix with no crowds. In summer, it gets extremely hot, so only pre-sunrise or post-sunset adventures should be undertaken.

Local Pointers for Snow Canyon State Park

I鈥檓 a bit biased as the editor-in-chief of , but I鈥檝e had my sights set on the for a while. I鈥檝e only visited the park once鈥攚ith some friends who don鈥檛 climb鈥攂ut I would love to return. If you climb, it鈥檚 definitely worth bringing your gear and sampling the sport and trad routes on sandstone. Moderate climbers will love the Island in the Sky Traverse (5.3, trad), but there are plenty of harder routes in the 5.12 neighborhood for climbers who want more of a challenge. You can also book a local guide through (from $410 per person for a half-day climbing trip, but as little as $130 per person if you have a larger group) if you鈥檙e climbing curious, but don鈥檛 have the gear or knowledge yet.

1. Antelope Island State Park, Syracuse

tiny bison grazing on the shore with a mountain in the background
Bison grazing the shores of Antelope Island State Park (Photo: Maya Silver)

Specs: 28,000 Acres

Best For: Hiking, biking, camping, wildlife viewing, stargazing

The largest island in the Great Salt Lake, offers an eclectic mix of wildlife, ranching history, and trails. As far as outdoor adventures go, it鈥檚 a great spot for hiking, trail running, road cycling, mountain biking, and camping.

The Best 国产吃瓜黑料 at Antelope Island

One of the coolest aspects of visiting Antelope Island is the unique wildlife that abounds there. While the island is named for the resident pronghorn antelope, the most well-known fauna around are bison. Somewhere between 550 and 700 bison live on the island and can be frequently seen grazing the island鈥檚 shores. Every October, viewers can observe the annual , which consolidates the herds and provides health screenings. Birdwatching is also a popular activity, since the island attracts over 250 species along their migration pathways.

When to Go

Antelope Island is open year-round, though in mid-spring, midges hatch and make a visit absolutely miserable. While these nasty biting midges can be present from spring through fall, they鈥檙e usually tolerable after their annual spring resurgence. Call ahead to check on midge conditions.

Antelope Island also doesn鈥檛 see a lot of snow and visiting during the less crowded winter months is a nice, quieter way to experience this state park.

Local Pointers for Antelope Island State Park

While no one besides the animals call Antelope Island home these days, a few Latter-day Saints settlers did move there and built a ranch in 1848. Now a preserved historic site, the is a fun stop on your Antelope Island tour. The park sometimes hosts ghost tours of this allegedly haunted ranch in fall, aka spooky season. Another cool event to check out is one of the on dark nights, from spring through fall, which pair perfectly with a night camping on the island.

maya silver
The author riding Thunder Mountain Trail, near Kodachrome Basin State Park and Bryce National Park

is the editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine and the author of four Moon travel guides to Utah, including and . She has lived in Utah for eight years and has been exploring its beautiful public lands for far longer. While she lives just outside the Uinta Mountains, she is a desert person at heart who would always rather be climbing or riding her mountain bike over some red rock under the sun.

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Here鈥檚 What You Can Learn from the 8-Year-Old Who Climbs Way Harder than You /culture/active-families/8-year-old-reagan-goodwyn-climber/ Wed, 12 Feb 2025 23:11:23 +0000 /?p=2696365 Here鈥檚 What You Can Learn from the 8-Year-Old Who Climbs Way Harder than You

Enter the extraordinary realm of Reagan the rope gun

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Here鈥檚 What You Can Learn from the 8-Year-Old Who Climbs Way Harder than You

The first time Reagan Goodwyn led a climb, she was four years old. My son is also four, and sometimes I still wipe his butt.

But Reagan鈥攁nd her family鈥攊nhabit a different realm than us mortals. Reagan, her parents, and her three little siblings live in a van. All the kids (except the almost two-year-old) climb. And most mind-boggling of all: The Goodwyn family 诲颈诲苍鈥檛 start climbing until after having kids.

When I found this out, I felt like I had missed some serious beta. To me, becoming a parent is synonymous with climbing less (and worse). But for the Goodwyns, it鈥檚 been the opposite. Reagan started climbing when she was three years old鈥攋ust casual bouldering in Alabama. 鈥淲e actually weren鈥檛 into climbing at all,鈥 Reagan鈥檚 dad David Goodwyn says. 鈥淲e were more into mountain biking.鈥

Then the family moved into an RV and headed west to find better mountain biking. The impetus for getting into climbing was a fluke鈥攖he Goodwyn family had been on the way to ride in Bentonville, Arkansas when an injury threw a wrench in their plans.

鈥淲e were in Memphis, Tennessee, about halfway there [to Bentonville],鈥 David remembers. 鈥淚 was stepping out of our camper and I rolled my ankle.鈥 Unable to ride, David pointed the RV further west to Moab, where an off-roading event they wanted to check out was taking place.

After some off-roading, the family noticed all the climbers at the Wall Street area off Potash Road. They鈥檇 always wanted to try roped climbing and they already had climbing shoes for bouldering. So they bought a rope and some quickdraws and 鈥済ot pretty into it.鈥 The family started with sport climbing, but quickly got into trad. And it wasn鈥檛 long before a natural leader emerged among the Goodwyns.

Photo: David Goodwyn

World鈥檚 Smallest Rope Gun

Reagan got her first foray into leading on a low-angle slab route at the in Moab. Then, shortly before her fifth birthday, while hanging out in Indian Creek, she asked her dad if she could lead a trad climb: , a 5.9+ thin hands crack.

David recalls initially brushing off his daughter鈥檚 bold request. But then Reagan waltzed over to the route, climbed up a bit and plugged a cam into the crack. David took a look: It was bomber.

鈥淪he crushed it,鈥 David says. 鈥淚 was blown away.鈥

Reagan says she climbs because it鈥檚 fun鈥攁nd for the sense of achievement. 鈥淚 like the feeling of getting up high and feeling accomplished when I send,鈥 Reagan reflects. 鈥淚 like that feeling a lot 鈥榗ause I鈥檝e overcome my fear of falling.鈥

Most of Reagan鈥檚 accomplishments have been in the crack department. Her 鈥攚hich is managed by her parents鈥攊s filled with reel after reel of her sending splitter sandstone cracks in , wearing her signature send uniform: Carhartt overalls, a pink long-sleeved shirt, a magenta Ocun harness, and a blue helmet. (Thankfully, Ocun also makes crack gloves small enough for her hands.)

Watch Reagan Send Spaghetti Western in Indian Creek

While she鈥檚 a crack climber through and through, Reagan will climb slab if there are decent crystals or holds. She says overhanging sport climbs feel 鈥渨eird鈥 because she can鈥檛 see the next hold to assess whether it鈥檚 any good.

Reagan鈥檚 also been getting more into multi-pitch climbing鈥攁nd has even learned to make her own anchors with trad gear. 鈥淲e鈥檝e done a lot of multi-pitch together where she鈥檚 had to build her anchors all alone, up above me,鈥 David says. 鈥淪he belays me up on the anchor she鈥檚 built. So I definitely trust her.鈥

I asked David if he was nervous the first time Reagan belayed him on an anchor she built. 鈥淚鈥檓 always like, 鈥榊ou鈥檙e pretty sure it鈥檚 bomber?鈥欌 David says. But every anchor that she has built has been solid, according to him.

One thing Reagan loves is topping out on a multi-pitch climb, then eating a snack in the sun鈥攄ried mangos or stroopwafels. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 always a really fun thing to do when you鈥檙e at the top and you just accomplished something you really wanted to do,鈥 she reflects.

Reagan placing pro in J Tree (Photo: David Goodwyn)

Safety Check: An Eight-Year-Old on the Sharp End

鈥淲e feel like what we鈥檙e doing is pretty safe,鈥 David says. During Reagan鈥檚 early days of leading trad, David would hang on a static line above her to make sure her placements looked good as she worked her way up. Though he tried to remain relatively hands off 鈥渁s long as everything looked safe.鈥

鈥淗ave you taken any whippers? What鈥檚 the most scared you鈥檝e ever been?鈥 I ask her.

Reagan level-sets with me: 鈥淚鈥檝e never had a placement where I鈥檝e been not sure that my gear was going to hold.鈥 Though this was Reagan鈥檚 first interview ever, she consistently exudes a confidence beyond her years鈥攊n her gear placements, in her climbing, in herself.

As for whippers, Reagan took a few on what she considers her favorite route of all time鈥攁nd also the scariest climb she鈥檚 ever done. is a 5.12 in Indian Creek on the Way Rambo crag. The .75 hand crack is right in Reagan鈥檚 wheelhouse, but the roof puts her skills to the test. 鈥淭he rope gets so heavy that I just fall on it every time and I鈥檓 like, 鈥楧ang it!鈥欌 she says.

鈥淪he鈥檚 taken some pretty interesting whips on that one,鈥 David agrees.

But did Reagan鈥攚ho always wears a helmet鈥攕ustain any injuries on those interesting whips? 鈥淚 just chipped my fingernail, that was all,鈥 Reagan says. The chipped nail remains her only climbing 鈥渋njury鈥 to date.

The day after struggling up Slice and Dice, Reagan went back to try it again鈥攁nd sent it. 鈥淚 overcame my fears and I knew I could do it,鈥 she says.

The other safety question implicated in Reagan鈥檚 story? Trolls. David started the account before she really even started climbing, mainly to take videos of her riding her bike. He put 鈥渞ocks鈥 in her handle because the family was doing a little bouldering at the time. At first it was for fun, but then it became about documenting Reagan鈥檚 accomplishments.

Initially, the Goodwyns experienced a 鈥渕ixed鈥 response on Instagram, with some people who were very supportive, and others who felt that kids shouldn鈥檛 be attempting what Reagan was doing. Some started to suggest the photos they were posting of her leading were staged, so David started posting more videos instead of photos. But these days, the response to Reagan鈥檚 content is overwhelmingly positive.

鈥淲e鈥檝e seen less and less of the haters out there,鈥 David says. 鈥淚f anything, now it鈥檚 just people saying her hands are so small or the strength-to-weight ratio makes it easier for her, trying to discount her achievements.鈥 But the family could care less about those haters鈥擱eagan is working hard and having fun and 鈥渢hat鈥檚 all that matters,鈥 David says.

Reagan on Valentine鈥檚 Day in Red Rock (Photo: David Goodwyn)

Reagan鈥檚 Climbing Advice for Grown-Ups鈥攁nd Kids, Too

鈥淕o to Indian Creek鈥: That鈥檚 Reagan鈥檚 best pointer for anyone who wants to get better at climbing cracks. She explains that climbing in Indian Creek 鈥渢eaches you to stay in the crack鈥 because there鈥檚 nothing on the face.

And how might a full-grown adult acquire the confidence of this crack climbing prodigy? 鈥淚 get scared sometimes,鈥 Reagan admits, 鈥渂ut you just got to place good gear and feel confident in everything you鈥檙e doing.鈥 Beyond that, she says her main goal is safety.

Another goal of Reagan鈥檚? To find some climbing partners who aren鈥檛 grown-ups. 鈥淚 would love to have more little friends out there,鈥 she says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 kind of hard to come by.鈥 She鈥檚 hoping more kids will start getting into climbing like her.

On the upside, Reagan is starting to serve as a mentor to her three younger siblings鈥攊n play and on belay. Her oldest brother Anderson just turned six, and he鈥檚 already led his first 5.11. 鈥淚 was so nervous,鈥 David recalls of the milestone, though he notes that Anderson got up the route no problem. 鈥淗e鈥檚 gung-ho trying to lead more and keep up with his sister,鈥 David explains.

Reagan in J Tree (Photo: David Goodwyn)

A Rock Warrior鈥檚 Childhood

In a world of hectic schedules, growing academic obligations, and pervasive screens, Reagan鈥檚 childhood is rooted in the outdoors and climbing. Her family of six drives the van where the climbing is good. Schooling is unschooling, and David says they follow Reagan鈥檚 lead. When she鈥檚 into math, they focus on math. Now she wants to be able to read more signage, so she鈥檚 working on spelling and reading. After a few hours of learning, they go outside, explore, and climb.

Moab is as close to a 鈥渉ome base鈥 as the Goodwyn family has, and it鈥檚 where you鈥檒l likely find them in spring or fall. It is, after all, where they store their mountain bikes. During the rest of the year, you might find them in Vedauwoo, Joshua Tree, Squamish, or Red Rock, where they spoke to Climbing from the back of their van. One day, Reagan says she hopes they can visit Patagonia. 鈥淚鈥檝e looked at some pictures and I would like to climb those really good sheer rock faces,鈥 she says.

As for nearer term climbing goals, Reagan wants to do more multi-pitch and get into big walls. But there鈥檚 鈥渙ne big goal鈥 that she really wants to tick off: Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13), an invert offwidth in Indian Creek.

I asked her when she鈥檚 hoping to climb this notoriously challenging route. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 really have any timelines,鈥 Reagan says. 鈥淚鈥檒l do it when I really want to. Sometime soon.鈥

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Is This the Most Dystopian Climb in the US? /outdoor-adventure/climbing/pricecicle-utah-the-most-dystopic-climb-in-the-us/ Sat, 11 Jan 2025 09:01:41 +0000 /?p=2693621 Is This the Most Dystopian Climb in the US?

Diesel fumes be damned, the Pricecicle exceeds expectations

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Is This the Most Dystopian Climb in the US?

Diesel fumes. Cyanide. Falling dirt, laced with coal. Mysterious flecks of neon plastic.

These are a few of the things you might accidentally inhale while climbing Utah鈥檚 Pricecicle, a 60-foot pillar right off Highway 6.

If you like your ice like I like my martinis, then the Pricecicle will not disappoint. Is this the greatest dirtcicle in the West?

There are, in fact, more elements to the weirdness that is the Pricecicle. Take, for example, the adjacent graffiti-tagged bridge, or the drive-by spectators who stop to take a selfie while eyeing you with equal parts curiosity and bewilderment.

Then there鈥檚 the (circa 2009) between two decidedly sus contributors dubbed Bill Bones and Stevie Nacho regarding frozen poop and secret bolts. Or consider the who likes to swing her tools there, from time to time.

Weird or not, in the waning days of 2024, my husband Casey and I found ourselves driving two hours from the Park City area to the Pricecicle with our friends Vicki and Adam to catch some ice to close out the year.

I blame climate change, which delivered a balmy December. With a 50-degree high just a week or so earlier, the usually abundant ice up Provo Canyon was far from in. A sad, thin veneer of slush and drip clung to Provo鈥檚 rock face. Maple Canyon鈥檚 ice climbs weren鈥檛 in either. And the Great White Icicle was anything but.

In Utah, in addition to living in a literal desert that becomes more desert-y with each additional part per million of carbon dioxide added to our atmosphere, we also live in an ice park desert鈥攁t least compared to my former home of Colorado, where make ice climbing a reliably accessible pursuit.

So the Pricecicle it was.

Though we鈥檇 never climbed this WI3/4 pillar before, all of us had driven by it countless times, usually en route to Ouray. We never stop. Usually, because it looks not that good鈥攁nd dirty. But had we written off the Pricecicle too quickly?

鈥淣ot as bad as people say,鈥 writes Salt Lake City-based climber Alex Mankouski on . 鈥淲orth doing,鈥 weighs in another local climber.

Generally speaking, we found these positive reviews to be accurate. Not only was the pillar in, but it was thick and the conditions were good: cold and dry.

two climbers climbing a frozen waterfall
The Pricecicle was far better than expected

Conveniently for time-strapped ice climbers with little kids like ourselves, the Pricecicle is just a 90-second approach from the pullout off Highway 6. The risk-averse will be happy to know that no avalanche risk exists. Top-ropers can take a muddy walk-up to the bolted anchors. And the nearest medical center lies just 17 miles to the south in the pillar鈥檚 eponymous town of Price.

As we swerved into the pullout at speed, we celebrated the absence of any other cars or parties on the pillar. Seconds later, a Toyota Tacoma pulled in ahead of us. Bummer! We rushed to pack up our gear and hike alongside the highway to reach the base of the climb first. But dude in the Tacoma shimmied up the walk-up, meaning he鈥檇 reach the anchors first.

Thankfully, our Pricecicle-mate was courteous and called down to see which side of the pillar we wanted. As Adam racked up screws to lead the right side, he rapped down the other side and cursed himself: He鈥檇 forgotten his tools up top! Luckily for him, we had three pairs to spare.

As it turned out, the other folks who had rolled up in the Tacoma were the climber鈥檚 family members and they were staying in the car while he sampled the Pricecicle. So he rope soloed himself up with a Grigri, then peaced out.

four climbers in down jackets
Belay jackets all day at the Pricecicle

I don鈥檛 remember the last time I climbed in a belay jacket, but I needed one by my second lap up the roadside pillar. The temps were in the low 20s, with a wind chill of eight degrees Fahrenheit. Cold, but not as frigid as the prime screaming barfy conditions I鈥檝e experienced on many an early Ouray morning. I blame the Pricecicle鈥檚 location in a little urban enclave, where the sun never shines. That, and the wind gusts that blew our way each time a semi roared by 30 feet behind us.

Shortly after we pointed the car north back toward home, Vicki was perusing the Utah Ice Climbers Facebook group. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 Adam!鈥 she exclaimed. Dude in the Tacoma had snapped a photo of Adam climbing without any of us realizing it and posted it in real time.

At the end of the day, we were glad we鈥檇 made the trek to the Pricecicle, and finally climbed the pillar we鈥檇 passed on the highway so many times.

When the climate crisis means that none of the ice is in lower down, this weird pillar is a nice option to have in our back pockets. Yet between the questionable substances (cyanide, diesel, plastic, etc.), the proximity to the highway, the sneaky social media post, and the overarching vibe of the Pricecicle, it鈥檚 also the most dystopian place I鈥檝e ever climbed.

But as Bill Bones of the climb鈥檚 storied Mountain Project comments says, for us Utahns, 鈥淚ce is too rare to be picky.鈥

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