I鈥檝e been hiking and camping in Colorado for more than 25 years, but last summer, I went on one of the most delicious backcountry overnights I鈥檝e ever done, literally.

The gist? I met up with a group of outdoor experts, including , aka 鈥淭he Mountain Chef鈥�, at the Fourth of July Trailhead, near Boulder, Colorado. There, we strapped on packs to haul 4.4 miles up and over the Continental Divide鈥檚 Arapaho Pass to Caribou Lake鈥攁n alpine oasis at 11,147 feet. Our goal? To test a bunch of gear and cook good food in the field.

I was stoked to tag along for two reasons: first, to hike and camp with other gear junkies who love being outside as much as I do; second, the trip’s head honcho scored a coveted backcountry permit for the Indian Peaks Wilderness, providing immediate access to this stunning (but popular) 74,000-acre chunk of Rocky Mountains in my backyard.

Because Caribou Lake sits in the exposed shadow of the Divide, it experiences rapid, severe weather swings, or in other words, becomes prime gear-testing ground. And unsurprisingly, as we crested the pass, horizontal hail and wind slammed us from the west. We descended to the lake, found our camp spot, slung off our packs, and pitched our tents.

Just as we kicked back for happy hour, a slushy hail storm rolled in. So, we scooped handfuls of ice from the seats of camp chairs and plopped them into cocktails, then Starks whipped out new MSR stoves and cook kits and began frying up Korean BBQ, followed by hot pots piled with vegetables, noodles, and sizzled strips of salty meat.Within 15 minutes, the sky cleared up into a blood-red sunset, and we stood chatting, munching, and slurping to an alpenglow show, before crashing for the night and descending the next day. (For the record: the gear held up and The Mountain Chef鈥檚 cuisine was as stellar as the views.) It was bliss.

Camping in Colorado: With Hundreds of Options, These Are Some of the Best

Beyond burly backpacking overnights, Colorado has lots of other cool ways to catch Zzzs outdoors, including at trailheads and in fancy tents. Below, I鈥檝e highlighted some notable and new places for camping in Colorado, broken down by type, from supported campgrounds to dispersed options, and more. Some of these spots are free and first-come, first-served, some require months of planning just to snag a reservation. But pick any one of these (mostly) off-grid gems and you won鈥檛 go wrong.

My bottom line? It doesn鈥檛 matter whether I鈥檓 camping with my kids, buddies, solo, or with other outdoor pros testing pots and pans in a hail storm鈥攁s long as I鈥檓 sleeping outside, I鈥檓 set.

Dispersed Camping

In Colorado, dispersed camping, a.k.a. primitive campsites are usually interspersed along dirt roads in public lands, outside of designated campgrounds. Opt for these options for solitude and the best stargazing around. Just don鈥檛 forget your own drinking water or filter, follow Leave No Trace Principles and pack out your trash, and know how to responsibly poop in the woods, please and thanks.

Pawnee Buttes

Location: Pawnee National Grasslands, northeast of Ault in Eastern Colorado

Just 13 miles shy of the Wyoming border in northeastern Colorado, the Pawnee Buttes is part of Pawnee National Grasslands. Dispersed camping is allowed on the Pawnee National Grassland year-round and there are numerous primitive campsites off the network of dirt roads that are a short drive from the Pawnee Buttes Trailhead. Per usual for dispersed camping, there aren鈥檛 facilities at any of these sites, but you鈥檒l find a bathroom and shelters at the official trailhead.

The Cost: Free
Book It: First-come, first-served;
Don’t Miss: The main reason to drive up here is to hike the , a short but inspiring 4.4-mile out and back walk to two enormous sand and rock formations rising up from the plains. Note: It鈥檚 completely exposed to the elements, and summer temperatures easily reach 90-100掳F, but early morning, spring, and fall are perfect times to visit, and camping near the trailhead gives you immediate sunrise and sunset options when it鈥檚 not as hot and bright.

Gross Reservoir / Winiger Ridge

Location: West of Boulder, Front Range, Colorado

This chunk of White River National Forest only a few miles west of Boulder is accessible by high clearance 4WD only and offers a handful of free, dispersed camping spots, mostly along a ridge above Gross Reservoir. There is a vault toilet at , but none at the campsites, which are marked with numbered posts. Although this is technically still dispersed camping, you must find an available designated site and can鈥檛 just post up anywhere. National Forest System Road 359, which provides access, is open from mid-May through mid-November during a typical year.

The Cost: Free
Book It: First-come, first-served;
Don’t Miss: The reservoir itself is open for regular and ice fishing, canoeing, and SUP (but no swimming allowed).

Bear River Developed Campsites in Flat Tops Wilderness Area

Location: Near Yampa, in north-central Colorado

There are 30 designated dispersed campsites along the Bear River Corridor, which is the main eastern entrance road to Stillwater Reservoir and the Flat Tops Wilderness (Forest Service Road 900). You鈥檒l find these spots with superb views along the road between several established Forest Service campgrounds, as well as a string of lakes and trailheads. Each site has a picnic table and fire grate and a numbered post.

The Cost: Free
Book It: First-come, first-served;
Don’t Miss: The Flat Tops Wilderness spans the Routt National Forest and White River National Forest, with elevations ranging from 7,640 to 12,354 feet. It鈥檚 the third-largest Wilderness area in Colorado. Check out the 7-mile out and back from Stillwater Reservoir.

Camping at Trailheads

The following trails allow primitive camping either in or near trailhead parking lots, providing optimal early-morning access to stunning hiking trails. Usually it鈥檚 explicitly prohibited to camp at most trailheads in Colorado, but here are a couple of interesting exceptions.

Sheep Creek Hot Springs

Location: East of Durango, southwest Colorado

Okay, let鈥檚 clear this up right from the start: there are no hot springs, just some warmish algae covered spots on the Piedra River, at the bottom of this short trail into San Juan National Forest (at least, that鈥檚 what I found when I hiked and camped here in 2022). That said, it鈥檚 still a lovely walk in the woods and you can sleep outside around here. The descends a few hundred feet to the confluence of Sheep Creek and the Piedra River, then heads upstream along the latter over a flat, mossy, other-worldly forested river bank. There are backcountry campsites down there too, as well as a few car camping spots at the trailhead, all primitive with nothing but a fire ring and some downed logs to sit on.

The Cost: Free
Book It: First-come, first-served;
Don’t Miss: Trout fishing on the Piedra River. Plus, check out Chimney Rock National Monument and the town of Pagosa Springs nearby, where you will indeed find incredible hot springs, plus some lovely shops and restaurants.

Picture Canyon

Location: Comanche National Grassland, Southeast Colorado

This lonely, remote corner of the state doesn鈥檛 get as many visitors as mountainous destinations, making it all the more reason to visit. Archeologists estimate this area has been inhabited for over 12,000 years. Evidence includes projectile points, stone tools, charred bones, and rock shelter sites. There are 13 miles of hiking and horseback riding trails throughout this section of Comanche National Grassland. Dispersed camping is permitted in Picture Canyon, both in the picnic area by the parking lot, and along several dirt roads in the area. Campers may only use existing fire rings and park in designated areas, but there are a number of obvious spots to choose from with flat spots for tents and established fire pits.

The Cost: Free
Book It: First-come, first-served;
Don’t Miss: The variety of habitat makes this a first-rate birding spot to view Eastern Phoebe, Scaled quail, Bullock鈥檚 oriole, eagles, burrowing owls, towhees, wrens, sparrows, grosbeaks, and more. You鈥檒l want to hike to local examples of rock art, although much of it has been vandalized; there鈥檚 an interesting crack cave near an old homestead, about a mile鈥檚 walk in.

Best National Park/Monument Campgrounds

Many campers plan their entire Colorado trip around visits to the five national parks (this includes , which was designated a national park in February 2024) and nine national monuments distributed throughout the state, most of which maintain and manage some pretty cool campgrounds. Here are a few of my favorites.

Aspenglen Campground

Location: Rocky Mountain National Park, near Estes Park

One of the smaller, more remote-feeling campgrounds inside Rocky Mountain National Park, Aspenglen is located on the east side of the park, about a five-minute drive from the Fall River Entrance. The campground has four tight loops with 51 sites for tents and RVs up to 30 feet, including 10 tent-only sites. Its facilities are wheelchair-accessible, and picnic tables, grills, fire rings, and tent pads are provided by the National Park Service (NPS). Flush toilets, drinking water, dishwashing sinks, food lockers, campfire programs, an amphitheater, and a riding stable are also available. Leashed pets are permitted in the campground, but don鈥檛 forget they鈥檙e not allowed on any national park trails.

The Cost: $26 per night; campers must also purchase a vehicle day pass (or have an annual NPS pass)
Book It: ; note that this campground fills up quickly when spots open up to six months in advance
Don’t Miss: Check out Horseshoe Park, the best place to see elk and bighorn sheep, as well as the 6-mile out-and-back , a singletrack day hike with epic views of Longs Peak, both of which are accessible from the campground. The is also a short drive away and is a strenuous 12.5 mile out-and-back hike up to the pristine high-alpine lake (which has a primitive campsite requiring an overnight permit).

Saddlehorn Campground

Location: Colorado National Monument, near Fruita

Most Coloradans drive by Colorado National Monument on their way to Utah, never realizing that some canyons and rock features they seek exist just south of the interstate here. The monument protects 32 square miles of rock ridges and plateaus on the northern end of the Uncompahgre Uplift. Saddlehorn Campground, which is inside the National Monument, near the Visitor Center, is perched 2,000 feet above the Colorado River, with stunning panoramic views over the valley, including the towns of Fruita and Grand Junction.

The Cost: $22 per night, plus park entrance
Book It: ; available up to six months in advance
Don’t Miss: During summer months, the campground hosts ranger-led campfire programs and guided walks. In winter, you can cross-country ski the monument鈥檚 trail system. Mountain biking and dogs are prohibited within the monument, but you can take a spin or bring your pup to most of the surrounding BLM land, worry-free. Additionally, campers may have the opportunity to join the Grand Junction astronomy club, which occasionally sets up telescopes at the campground for stargazing sessions.

Pi帽on Flats Campground

Location: Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, San Luis Valley, Colorado

Pi帽on Flats is the official campground inside the national park, located at the base of the 30-square-mile dune field, across the creek. Pi帽on Flats has 88 campsites, plus a section for big groups. It鈥檚 important to note you can鈥檛 collect firewood inside the national park, but the camp store, visitors center, and the Oasis store and restaurant (just outside of the park) all sell locally sourced firewood. Pi帽on Flats campground has two loops of sites in a pi帽on-juniper woodland, some with privacy. Note that all sites are small, most can only accommodate one tent, and it can be a bit noisy in the mornings and evenings, as generators are allowed from 7A.M.鈥�8P.M. But sunrise access to the dunes makes it worth it.

The Cost: $20 per night (group sites are $65-80 per night for up to 40 people), plus park entrance
Book It: Loop 1 is open year-round; the rest of the campground is open from late spring to early fall. are recommended and accepted for Loop 2 from mid-May to mid-September.
Don’t Miss: Most visitors spend a day exploring the dunes, hiking to any of the nearby shifting high points. If Medano Creek, the waterway that runs below the dunes, is flowing above ground (usually in late May and June), plan on some high-mountain 鈥渂each鈥� time, splashing in the shallow water.

Unique Full-Service Campgrounds

These special spots sit on the camping spectrum, somewhere between forest service campgrounds and fancy glamping. They come in different sizes, with the biggest ones operating more like mini villages than remote nature experiences, but it鈥檚 that character that makes these worth visiting鈥攅specially for family reunions with large groups.

Campfire Ranch on the Taylor

Location: Near Crested Butte, central Colorado

Campfire Ranch has several locations, including 鈥渙n the Taylor,鈥� where they offer tent, car, and van camping. They have onsite rental camping gear from leading outdoor brands and an 鈥湽怨虾诹� Concierge鈥� that connects guests with local outfitters and activities. It鈥檚 located halfway between Crested Butte and Gunnison, about 15 minutes away from either outpost, and is surrounded by hundreds of miles of singletrack trails for day hikes, mountain biking, and trail runs.

The Cost: Ranges from $67 per night for campsites to $130 per night for their 鈥渕icro cabin鈥�
Book It: Season runs mid-May to early October. can be made only 14 days in advance, though for 3+ campsites or for large groups you can reserve up to 6 months before your stay.
Don’t Miss: The Taylor Canyon is home to the gold-medal fishing waters of the Taylor River and decent whitewater for rafting and kayaking. Venture east to Taylor Park to enjoy one of Colorado鈥檚 most stunning high-alpine valleys for more fishing, boating, hiking, and off-roading adventures.

Sun Outdoors Rocky Mountain

Location: Granby, Colorado

This huge collection of accommodations near the Colorado River, just across the road from Granby, is especially nice if you鈥檙e traveling with children or older folks. You can all stay comfortably at camping and non-camping accommodations, including RV hookups, tent sites, Airstream trailers, and covered Conestoga wagons. There are on-site amenities like a big pool, hot tubs, restaurant and bar, playgrounds, recreation center, arcade, and more. When I last stayed here with my mother and children, I was able to head out early for a long hike in Indian Peaks Wilderness, knowing that my family had plenty to do on Sun Outdoors鈥� campus. Pro tip: rent a golf cart to get around for added fun.

The Cost: Summer rates for tent spots start at $67 per night, Airstream and wagons start at $155. Book early, especially for summer weekends.
Book It:
Don’t Miss: Day hike in Rocky Mountain National Park or Indian Peaks Wilderness, both to the east; soak at , just to the west; or visit , an hour to the north.

Dolores River RV Resort

Location: Dolores, Four Corners Region, southwest Colorado

This river-side oasis in southwest Colorado is the perfect stopover between Four Corners and the San Juan Mountains, and it also operates like a micro-village. Most adventurers use this location as a basecamp, as it鈥檚 uniquely situated between destinations with awesome, 360-degree outdoor access. Stay in one of 78 tent or RV sites, or in a tepee, yurt, cabin, vintage trailer, or covered Conestoga wagon. All guests can use the community bathhouses, laundry machines, and a large common recreation hall, and enjoy grub from food trucks, as well as scheduled music and social events.

The Cost: Tent and RV sites begin at $29 per night, and glamping options like a covered wagon start at $62 per night
Book It:
Don’t Miss: Check out , a 2.5-mile loop, in . A little closer, just drive up Highway 145 which follows the Dolores River upstream toward the San Juans and Telluride. There are ample spots to pull off and explore, or head into the little town of Dolores and walk the Dolores River Trail.

Yurt and Wall Tent Camping

Yurts and wall tents feature sturdy, semi-permanent structures like wooden frames and tent platforms, providing a comfortable shelter in a rustic, natural setting. Tent material is typically thick, waterproof canvas, and you鈥檙e often sleeping on an actual bed, as opposed to the ground.

Rustic Rook Resort

Location: Near Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, in San Luis Valley, Colorado

Just off the approach road to the national park, this new camping compound offers furnished tents, upcycled grain bins (a.k.a. repurposed farm silos) with stargazing loft domes, plus a few vintage RVs. Rustic Rook is a family owned and operated business and has a handful of fully furnished platform tents with wood burning stoves (five have in-tent plumbing, guests at the rest use a community bath house). Rustic Rook serves fresh, pre-adventure breakfast burritos each morning and s鈥檓ores around the campfire at night.

The Cost: $160-$330 per night
Book It:
Don’t Miss: In addition to the nearby national park, the San Luis Valley has an eclectic and alluring list of attractions, including a UFO Watchtower, , and .

Dunes Desert Camp

Location: Near Mosca and Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, in San Luis Valley, Colorado

This 320-acre private property in San Luis Valley has luxury safari tents with views of the surrounding valley and Sangre de Cristo mountains. The owner, Chris Mahoney, spent 14 years guiding safaris in Africa, so he鈥檚 well versed in luxury camping and works with to arrange guided hiking, biking, climbing, horseback riding, rafting, and 4WD tours. The tents are cozy and carpeted and have private stargazing porches. Plus, there鈥檚 a communal fire pit for grilling up tasty meals after a long day of adventuring.

The Cost: Safari tents from $250 per night, campsites from $50 per night
Book It:
Don’t Miss: Plan to hike around Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve early, so the sand isn鈥檛 so hot. Plus, you鈥檒l experience the post-dawn light show on the dunes. Other area activities outside of the park include taking the short hike to Zapata Falls, birding at , and visiting the mountain town of Crestone.

Mudita Camel鈥檚 Yurt

Location: South of Alamosa, in San Luis Valley, Colorado

I found this gem on Hipcamp鈥攁 solid resource for unique campsite reservations. Mudita Camel鈥檚 Yurt is a 35-acre, high-desert property in Trujillo Canyon surrounded by public lands and national forest in a striking and remote corner of the San Luis Valley. And, boy, does it deliver as advertised: a homey yurt next to a herd of photogenic camels that the owners take care of. Why camels? This herd is tangentially related to the now extinct Camelops that once roamed this valley, mingling with wooly mammoths and other Ice Age creatures, up until about 13,000 years ago. The yurt sleeps up to four, you can bring your pets, and your hosts may or may not be making soaps and other products from camel milk when you visit. Ask for a farm tour.

The Cost: $137 per night
Book It:
Don’t Miss: Ride the narrow gauge , which follows the high passes between Antonito, Colorado and Chama, New Mexico. There鈥檚 also hiking in the Southern San Juan mountains (try , a 3-mile out and back to incredible high-alpine meadows). After your train ride or hike, feast on the enormous platters at Dos Hermanas Mexican-American Steakhouse (on Main Street in Antonito).

CampV

Location: Naturita, in Western Colorado

This unique, under-visited part of western Colorado, west of Telluride, is on the site of a repurposed abandoned mining community. CampV鈥檚 mission is to 鈥渃ombine art, history, architecture, design, outdoor recreation, and unique spaces,鈥� and the result is quite unique as far as outdoor stays go. Crash the night in one of the fully furnished Airstreams, a Lotus Belle or safari tent, a historic restored luxe cabin, or at the primitive riverfront campsites. There are RV hookup sites as well.

The Cost: Tent sites from $30 per night, glamping options from $155, cabins from $185
Book It:
Don’t Miss: CampV offers an on-site 鈥淪targazing and Snuggles鈥� experience in an old, empty water tank, where they鈥檒l set you up with blankets, a fire, and hot drinks, and a chance to enjoy the certified Dark Sky above. You can also hike or bike the 4.1 mile out-and-back to the confluence of the San Miguel and Dolores River.

Snow Mountain Ranch Yurts

Location: Near Winter Park and Granby, Colorado

This is one of Colorado鈥檚 best family destinations, run by YMCA of the Rockies at Snow Mountain Ranch. It鈥檚 a massive 5,000-acre affair with lodges, cabins, campgrounds, and yes, a yurt village. Each yurt sleeps six guests via one queen bed and two bunk beds, and has a tent pad, picnic table, and fire pit outside. Available from June to October, yurt amenities include a public bathhouse with hot showers and flush toilets, and a dish-cleaning area.

The Cost: $140 per night
Book It: open the first Wednesday of January each year and fill up quickly for summer
Don’t Miss: There is an enormous menu of on-site activities right on site, both indoor and outdoor; my kids鈥� favorites are roller skating and the climbing wall. The craft center is also a big hit, not to mention, the campus has playgrounds, tubing hills (in both summer and winter), horseback riding, and a pool. You鈥檙e also not far from the west entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. In winter, use the on-site nordic ski trail system, or head to Granby Ranch, a smaller, less crowded ski area minutes away.

is a teacher, wilderness instructor, writer, and former wildland firefighter, who has been camping and hiking in Colorado for 20 years. He is the author of seven books, including Moon Colorado Camping and Moon Colorado Hiking, and a contributor to The Denver Post travel column, 鈥淎round Colorado.鈥�

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[Rainforest Respite]
LAMANAI OUTPOST LODGE
Orange Walk Town

THERE’S A REASON HEART OF DARKNESS comes to mind when your motorboat emerges from the snaking New River into a 28-mile-long lagoon towered over by the jungle-cloaked Maya temples of Lamanai: Part of the 1994 film adaptation of the Joseph Conrad novel was shot here. Docking at the well-concealed Lamanai Outpost Lodge—where workers clad in camouflage whisk away your bags as black howler monkeys woof from the trees—adds to the private-dominion effect, but no worries: There are no madmen in this luxe encounter with a lost world. The resort’s 20 palm-thatched cabanas are handsomely built from local hardwoods and come with ceiling fans, minibars, and verandas slung with hammocks. Gravel paths wind through orchid gardens to the lofty restaurant and bar, a fine perch for enjoying sweeping views of New River Lagoon, where you can swim, canoe, and fish for freakily large tarpon. Spot toucans and red-lored parrots as you wander around the highly atmospheric, 950-acre Lamanai Archaeological Reserve, one of the largest ruins of the pre-Classic Maya world, dating to 1500 b.c. Doubles, $312–$513 (based on double occupancy), all-inclusive; 888-733-7864,

Hidden Valley Inn

Cayo District

THE BRACING STEAM WATER may be a shock, but how often do you get to dive deep, surface behind an idyllic cascade, then drip-dry your bare bod on a moss-scented, sun-soaked rock surrounded by exotic orchids? It’s no wonder honeymooners feel the gravitational pull of Hidden Valley Inn, a 7,200-acre spread in the Maya Mountains of western Belize. And serious birders can commune with the likes of rare orange-breasted falcons, king vultures, stygian owls, and golden-hooded tanagers. Ninety miles of trails and old logging roads spoke outward from Hidden Valley’s 12 cottages and main lodge, where you’ll be welcomed back from each day’s expedition with a swirling Jacuzzi, a blaze in your room’s fireplace, and a candlelit dinner under the stars. The menu fuses Belizean Creole with international cuisine, including coconut curry beef and carrot-coconut-ginger soup. No biggie—you’ll burn it off on the way to tomorrow’s waterfall. Doubles, $150–$170; 011-501-822-3320,

Blancaneaux Lodge

San Ignacio

Blancaneaux Lodge

ROOM WITH A VIEW: Porch at Blancaneaux Lodge

OCCUPYING ONE OF THE FEW CORNERS of the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve not ravaged by the beetle blight of 2000, Blancaneaux Lodge—owned by director Francis Ford Coppola—is an opulent, detail-rich delight set on a green bluff above the flowing waters of Privassion River. Designed by renowned Mexican architect Manolo Mestre, the ten cabanas and seven grand villas feature dark hardwoods, Balinese carvings, and soaring thatch ceilings and are accented with tropical splashes of colorful fabrics. While Thai-massage therapists work their magic inside an Indonesian-rice-house spa, the resort’s Ristorante Montagna offers organic herbs and vegetables from an on-site garden, served in a range of Italian-themed salads, pastas, sandwiches, and gourmet pizzas. Horseback-riding trips to Big Rock Falls are most popular, and Blancaneaux’s proximity to the Caracol archaeological site—a vast Maya city only partially excavated—makes a visit to the ruin practically mandatory. Doubles, $180–$500; 800-746-3743,

The Lodge at Chaa Creek

San Ignacio

THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE LODGE at Chaa Creek from humble riverside backpacker haven to award-winning “adventure center, rainforest reserve, and spa” has been a 24-year odyssey for owners Mick and Lucy Fleming. The American-British couple discovered their plot of paradise while traveling in the late 1970s and opened the country’s first jungle lodge in 1981. The grounds are now crisply manicured, and a handsome, uniformed staff serves a year-round stream of guests. Chaa Creek’s 23 thatch-roofed cottage rooms, including a handful of luxury suites, have Mexican-tile or hardwood floors, rich Guatemalan fabrics, and Maya masks on the walls; two “treetop Jacuzzi suites” put you at eye level with massive orange iguanas lazing in the surrounding branches. For a taste of the old days, the Macal River Jungle Camp consists of ten canvas-roofed, screened casitas on stilts, about a ten-minute walk from the main lodge along the Ix Chel Medicine Trail. Sign on for a custom mountain-bike tour to the nearby Xunantunich ruins; you’ll have access to a modern fleet of high-end Specialized bikes and a skilled posse of local guides. Doubles, $85–$125; treetop Jacuzzi suites, $255–$320 (for four); camp casitas, $55 per person, including breakfast and dinner; 011-501-824-2037,

Victoria House

Ambergris Caye

YOU HEAR “Y’ALL” a lot around the two swimming pools, groomed beach, and elegant dining room of Victoria House, on Ambergris Caye. Not surprising, since Ambergris—a mere three-hour trip from Houston—is like a Hamptons for in-the-know Texans. With such a friendly vibe, Victoria House—an assortment of thatch-roofed casitas, plantation rooms, and tin-roofed villas, all freshly painted white with mahogany trim—is anything but pretentious. First stop after getting settled should be the Fantasea Dive Shop, in a palapa on the pier, to rent kayaks; or sign up for all manner of snorkeling, diving, or fishing trips. Top on the list: snorkeling at nearby Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley, where you’ll float around with southern stingrays, nurse sharks, and stoplight parrotfish. After dark, dine on snapper cakes and cashew-crusted grouper in the poolside garden. Or snag a golf cart for the two-mile ride to the funky, pastel town of San Pedro for pork and plantains at low-key Elvi’s Kitchen. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a water taxi 25 minutes north to hip Italophile Mata Chica Beach Resort for calamari fritti. Doubles at Victoria House, $155–$485; 800-247-5159,

Cayo Espanto

San Pedro

WHEN YOU ARRIVE AT THE DOCK of Cayo Espanto, a six-minute launch ride from Ambergris Caye’s hub of San Pedro, you might find yourself envying Salty, the island’s resident yellow Lab, who calls this four-acre speck of raked sand and palm trees home. But you’ll realize this is no dog’s life as you sink into your king-size bed facing a seemingly endless expanse of aquamarine sea, slip into your own private plunge pool, lounge on your private dock, and dine whenever and wherever you feel like it. Four villas plus a smaller bungalow are strategically placed around the island so that you’ll never be aware of other guests. And with a two-to-one staff-to-guest ratio and your own personal “houseman” running around in what looks like a pith helmet, you can literally choreograph every minute of your vacation. Feel like something sweet? Within ten minutes, freshly baked chocolate-chip cookies arrive on a silver tray. Feel like bonefishing, snorkeling, playing golf, having a massage? Not a problem. One past guest, Leonardo DiCaprio, liked the formula so much that he bought his own island off Belize, 104-acre Blackadore Caye, and is working with the team from Cayo Espanto to develop it. Doubles, $1,095–$2,450; entire island (up to 14 guests), $9,000–$13,000 per night; 888-666-4282,

Kanantik Reef and Jungle Resort

Placencia

FLYING INTO KANANTIK’S PRIVATE AIRSTRIP between Dangriga and Placencia, with the resort’s 300 acres of untamed jungle sprawling behind its palm-studded beach and the big blue stretching beyond, you know you’re in for a sweet experience. The vigorous white-haired Italian owner, Roberto Fabbri, designed the 25 Maya-inspired palm-thatched bungalows, gorgeous restaurant, and poolside bar mostly himself, and every detail, from the homemade pasta served in the high-ceilinged open-air restaurant to the elegant dock with its sparkling fishing and dive boats, has been keenly thought out. The circular cabanas feature rock-wall showers, four-poster beds draped with mosquito netting, and big wooden lattice windows that welcome the balmy ocean breeze. When you’re not lounging, take a Hobie Cat out for a sail, canoe to the nearby Sapodilla Lagoon, fish for permit, bonefish, and tarpon, or fin with Fabbri in his bright-red Speedo among the massive loggerhead turtles and spotted eagle rays that prowl the outlying reefs. Nearby, the 128,000-acre Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, established in 1990 as the world’s first jaguar preserve, is one of the best places in Belize to spot the elusive cats. Doubles, $365, all-inclusive; 877-759-8834,

The Inn at Robert’s Grove

Placencia

“WHO’S ROBERT?” everyone wants to know at the Inn at Robert’s Grove, near Placencia. That’s not too hard to figure out, since the owners, Robert and Risa Frackman, are easy to spot—having cocktails at the small bar, dining on Caribbean lobster at the next table on the terrace, saying hello as you splash in one of the three Mexican-tiled pools. In fact, you’re staying in what was originally planned as a beachfront vacation home for these Manhattan refugees, and it still feels that way. All 52 rooms in the nine red-roofed two- and three-story buildings have Risa’s stamp: a jungly feel created by saffron-yellow walls mixed with leopard prints, emerald tiles, and Caribbean artwork. Amble across the road to the lagoon side (the resort is on a narrow peninsula), where boats leave for dive trips to the reef and daylong excursions up the Monkey River to see huge green iguanas, bare-throated tiger herons, and howler monkeys. If all this isn’t enough of a getaway, head to one of the resort’s two private islands (Robert’s Caye and Ranguana Caye), each more than a half-hour away by boat, where you’ll stay in a rustic bungalow and bask in the sun like a true castaway. Doubles, $145–$720; 800-565-9757,

Big Fish: Whale Sharks

Chasing Belize’s friendly behemoths of the sea

I’M FINNING 80 FEET DEEP off the coast of Belize with a small cluster of scuba divers and our dive master, Brian Young. We have paid him to lead us to elusive, enormous Rhincodon typus—whale sharks. At the moment, with shafts of sun stabbing through the myriad shades of aqua surrounding us, the ocean feels empty.

Then, about 20 feet beneath us, a swirling school of thousands of cubera snapper appears. Young stops, and we gather in a circle above the fish, our air bubbles rising. Hopefully the white cloud will mimic snapper spawn, and the gentle giants will come up from the deep to investigate. But then one of the divers does the unthinkable: She breaks away from the group, drops into the school, and starts setting off her camera flash. The fish quickly disperse, and we return to the surface, the first of our two dives a bust.

Back in the sweltering cabin of Viper, the yellow-green-and-red-striped dive boat, tempers are running as high as the 97-degree heat. Several of the well-heeled divers onboard have spent a fruitless week searching for a whale shark. Young shakes his head: “I jes been havin’ me a terrible streak of bad luck.”

Divers come from all over the world to swim with these behemoths, and, locally, Young is one of the whale shark kings, having long demonstrated an uncanny ability to locate the animals on instinct. He’s been diving for 15 years among the whale sharks, which come annually to Gladden Spit, an elbow-shaped reef formation about 26 miles off the coastal town of Placencia, in the southern third of Belize’s coast. Young recognizes many of the same sharks year after year.

The giant creatures, which can grow up to 50 feet long and weigh more than 12 tons, show up around the full moons, especially from March to June, when the snapper come to spawn. Very little is known about the nonaggressive animals. In Belize, whale shark watching has become big business, and a ranger-patrolled marine park has been established to keep things under control.

It’s time to get back in the water, and Young is anxious—this will be the last chance for most divers onboard to see whale sharks, and he wants to deliver. We descend to 80 feet, and for 15 minutes we see nothing. Then another school of snapper appears, and Young gathers us together. As our bubbles rise, lo and behold, a 25-foot specimen emerges, its wide straight line of a mouth opening for business, its white belly silhouetted against the surface. Slowly, the whale shark corkscrews down around our column of bubbles, its gray spotted flank passing a yard from my mask before vanishing into the deep. Young’s streak of bad luck, it appears, is over.

Details: Brian Young owns the Seahorse Dive Shop; $150 per two-tank dive; 800-991-1969,

Access and Resources

Getting There: Continental (800-231-0856, ) flies nonstop to Belize City from Houston for $475 round-trip; American (800-433-7300, ) flies direct from Dallas for around $650 and from Miami for $750.

Getting Around: Single-engine airplanes are an easy way to hop around a country with an underdeveloped road system. Tropic Air (800-422-3435, ) and Maya Island Air (800-225-6732, ) run scheduled flights throughout Belize from Belize City. A one-way flight to Ambergris Caye on Tropic Air costs about $55 per person. For those up for a different sort of adventure, numerous car-rental companies are located in Belize City; a four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended. Thrifty (800-847-4389, ) and Budget (800-283-4387, ), with locations at the airport, rent Suzuki 4x4s starting at $500 per week. Gas in Belize costs about $4.50 a gallon.

Best Time to Visit: High season is December through April, when the average temperature hovers around a balmy 75 degrees; the wet season is June through November.

Resources: Belize Tourism Board, 800-624-0686,

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