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We鈥檝e always been thrilled to see orcas near our home in Alaska. But sailing through the waters along the Iberian Peninsula, where 600 boats have been hit鈥攁nd five sunk鈥攂y whales, was unnerving at best.

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To live in the small town of Haines, Alaska, is to live with bears, with roughly one brown bear for every nine human residents. Last winter, a local snowboarder woke a hibernating brown bear in the backcountry and was severely injured, furthering tensions between food-stressed bears and anxious local residents. But in most encounters, it鈥檚 the bear that ends up dead, prompting the question of what it means to coexist.

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What a 4,000-mile expedition with her husband taught Caroline Van Hemert, author of 'The Sun Is a Compass,' about navigating a relationship in close quarters

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