Ben McGrath Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/ben-mcgrath/ Live Bravely Tue, 12 Apr 2022 21:44:36 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Ben McGrath Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/ben-mcgrath/ 32 32 The Time I Crossed Paths with a Modern Day Huck Finn /culture/books-media/riverman-dick-conant-book-excerpt-ben-mcgrath/ Wed, 13 Apr 2022 10:30:29 +0000 /?p=2574671 The Time I Crossed Paths with a Modern Day Huck Finn

In an excerpt from his new book, 鈥橰iverman,鈥 writer Ben McGrath recounts how he met an itinerant canoeist named Dick Conant, a fascinating character who mysteriously disappeared shortly thereafter

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The Time I Crossed Paths with a Modern Day Huck Finn

聽is聽the April pick聽for the 国产吃瓜黑料 Book Club. You can learn more about the book club聽here, or聽to discuss it.


In the summer of 1999, Richard Perry Conant, age 48, quit his job as a janitor at the VA hospital in Boise, declaring himself fed up with the Clinton impeachment indulgence and maybe modernity itself. Before leaving town, he stashed some frozen fish in the attic of the house he’d been renting, a stink bomb on delayed fuse. Then he drove to Yellowstone National Park, where he spied elk, goats, buffalo, and鈥攐n the Blacktail Plateau, amid lush meadows鈥攁 black bear. Finally, he went to Walmart and bought a canoe, which he launched near the border of Montana and Wyoming. Destination: Gulf of Mexico.

I met him 15 years later. In my day job as a journalist, I鈥檝e seen more than enough stunts, and had Dick Conant鈥檚 peculiar voyages come to my attention by way of a press release, touting yet another attempt at some kind of arbitrary 鈥渞ecord鈥 in a postmodern world lacking authentic frontiers, I might have dismissed or ignored it. But he found me, as he did countless others, purely by accident鈥攁t the foot of my street, in a small town on the west bank of the Hudson River, 20 miles north of Midtown Manhattan. His current mission, or so my neighbor told me, was paddling a canoe 鈥渇rom Canada to Florida.鈥 I glanced at the vessel parked near the seawall: it was red, made of plastic, and packed as if for the apocalypse, with army surplus duffels and tarps and trash bags. And then there was the skipper himself: dressed in bib overalls, muddy brown boots, sporting a patchy, rust-colored beard, and laughing with great heaves of an ample gut. He called himself a snowbird鈥攁 retiree traveling south at the pace (more or less) of driftwood鈥攁nd offered a handshake firmer than any I can recall.

It was Labor Day 2014, and I had my two-year-old son with me; I was off the clock. We soon said goodbye and good luck to the traveler, with a million or more questions unanswered, and it wasn鈥檛 until the next day, thinking again of my son and of the bedtime story that I鈥檇 let slip away, that I determined to chase Conant down. The Hudson where we live is two and a half miles wide鈥攖he Tappan Zee, a Dutch word for sea. On foggy mornings and during snowstorms, the distant eastern shore vanishes, and it鈥檚 possible, if you have a yearning cast of mind, to imagine that you鈥檝e been marooned. What better illustration of the imaginative possibilities of life alongside a big river than the sudden arrival of a bearded giant from a distant land with a grip that could kill and a laugh as disarming as St. Nick鈥檚?

I drove south to a marina near the George Washington Bridge, beyond which, I felt sure, I鈥檇 never find him. He鈥檇 be lost鈥攐stensibly forever鈥攊n an urban mess of ferries and barges and bulkheads. Inside an office on the dock, I found a clerk and asked if she鈥檇 seen a hillbilly in a canoe. Blank stare. I tried elaborating on the nature and scope of Conant鈥檚 journey, such as I (barely) understood it, and she finally cut me off: 鈥淪ome people have too much time on their hands.鈥

I was actually in a bit of a hurry鈥攐n the hook for daycare pickup duty in less than two hours. But I felt reasonably sure, from the clerk鈥檚 reaction, that Conant was still en route, so I began hiking quickly upriver, along a rocky trail. Raising a pair of binoculars after a couple of minutes, I spotted something colorful just beyond the nearest jetty, a few hundred yards ahead. It turned out to be a deflated Mylar balloon.

Urban portage to the Delaware, Trenton, NJ, October 2014.
Dick Conant in Trenton, New Jersey, in 2014聽(Photo: James Halliday)

A computer printout in my bag proved that I wasn鈥檛 alone in my curiosity. It was from a six-year-old thread on a Texas kayak fishermen鈥檚 forum. 鈥淚 thought your membership would be interested in the adventures of Dick Conant,鈥 one post read. 鈥淢r. Conant is paddling a dark green heavily loaded 16′ canoe along our stretch of the intercoastal waterway. He left Buffalo New York in early July, paddling alone.鈥 Looking at the printout again, as I dithered, I was beset by a feeling of inadequacy. Conant had evidently made it all the way to Texas once before, from considerably north of where I now stood, sweating uncomfortably in 90-degree heat. If nothing else, he wasn鈥檛 the kind of person who gives up on a crazy idea.

So I trudged on, and after a mile, looking through the binoculars again, I spied the flash of a yellow paddle blade and a sliver of red bobbing in the ebb tide.

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