By 2044, people of color will make up the majority of the U.S. population. Naturally, there鈥檚 a resulting urgency for more diverse representation in marketing. Yet even with diversity on everyone鈥檚 table, influencers hired to check that box aren鈥檛 always eating. Most of us are giving away our talents and skills for free, getting paid with 鈥渆xposure.鈥 This devalues our work and denies us an equal seat at that table, but it doesn鈥檛 have to be that way.
I started modeling after I was street cast by a large American clothing company, which used my image in their stores and digital marketing all around the world. After not seeing payment, I reached out and was told my compensation was exposure鈥攖hat the 鈥渙pportunity鈥 would help me. Confused, I consulted a fashion photographer I know in New York City to get his opinion. 鈥淎t a minimum, you should be paid six Gs,鈥 he said. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 the average rate for that caliber of job.鈥 Needless to say, I felt used and a little embarrassed.
I鈥檓 now seeing a similar problem in the outdoor industry.
I鈥檝e recently been contacted by outdoor brands wanting me in their ambassador programs. One offered me two apparel items. In return, I would have to send them three to five photos of each product to be shared on social media, plus email, website, and promotional use.
My agent (yes, I now have an agent) also recently found a client offering $2,000 for the use of my image. The contrast in opportunities is striking.
So, with frustrated poise, I responded聽to that outdoor brand: 鈥淒o you have any聽paid opportunities? If so, I would love to pursue that.鈥
The (actually pretty empathetic) marketing coordinator explained that this is an opportunity they give influencers to build their portfolio, and noted that paid opportunities may arise after 鈥渢esting the waters.鈥 Sigh.
The crazy thing? I understand. It makes business sense to test the waters, and for the right person, it鈥檚 a great opportunity to be associated with a popular brand. And it can lead to larger projects, or to fruitful referrals that can launch you to the next level.
But exposure still doesn鈥檛 pay the bills鈥攅specially considering that some studies pin influencer marketing as having 11 times the ROI of traditional advertising. Influencers, here鈥檚 my advice:
Always ask for paid opps. This sets the precedent for all future conversations. If they don鈥檛 have the money, say no and move on. Only work with brands for free if you see a mutual benefit and are having a transparent conversation.
Negotiate image usage. Always ask and understand how the images will be used. I once received this: 鈥淎ll images in exchange for the product will be used in social media, website, email, and promotional material.鈥 I said social media only, and they obliged. Usage beyond social is exploitative (including promotional ads on social media). Companies have marketing budgets and pay models for these channels.
Do your research. Know what you鈥檙e supporting. Does the brand appropriate indigenous cultures鈥 designs? Tout U.S.-made but manufacture in Sri Lanka? Push diversity in campaigns, but not in their workplace? It鈥檚 up to you to decide where your personal brand intersects with a potential client鈥檚鈥攁nd only you should draw the lines.
The table is set. Let鈥檚 all eat.