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Backpacking the Needles District
Backpacking the Needles District
63 Parks Traveler

Who Needs Mars When You’ve Got Canyonlands?

Mountain-bike world-famous slickrock at our 62 Parks Traveler's 14th stop on her journey to visit every U.S. national park in a year

Published: 
Backpacking the Needles District

New perk: Easily find new routes and hidden gems, upcoming running events, and more near you. Your weekly Local Running Newsletter has everything you need to lace up! .

62 Parks Traveler聽started with a simple goal: to visit every U.S. national park in one year. Avid backpacker and public-lands nerd聽聽saved up, built out a tiny van to travel and live in, and hit the road. The parks as we know them are rapidly changing, and she聽wanted to see them before it鈥檚 too late.

Pennington has returned to traveling and is committed to following CDC guidelines during the COVID-19 pandemic to ensure the safety of herself and others. She鈥檚 visiting new parks as they open and closely adhering to best safety practices.


鈥淭his is a no-fall ride, so if you see something that looks intense, feel free to walk it,鈥 our聽mountain-biking guide told our group. He鈥檚聽a curly-headed outdoor addict who wanted everyone to have a good time. 鈥淪lickrock stair climbing on a bike is a uniquely Moab skill set,鈥 he added. 鈥淭here鈥檚 no need to push, dude.鈥

It was my first time mountain-biking intermediate trails. A canopy of diffuse, gray clouds hung high overhead and extended all the way to the snowcapped La Sal Mountains, in stark contrast with the burnt tangerine cliffs of Dead Horse Point State Park, which neighbors聽this Utah聽national park. We set off on an eight-mile loop skirting Canyonland National Park鈥檚 grounds, which afforded聽panoramic views of its expanse.聽(Bike tours are also聽offered within Canyonlands聽but weren鈥檛 available when I visited, due to the pandemic.). The terrain was rugged and dotted with small junipers as we made our way across Big Chief Trail.

I clicked into a higher gear and tried to balance gracefully on my pedals as the path聽swerved sharply and into a rocky descent. Hovering my butt just above the saddle, I thanked my lucky stars for the excellent suspension on my loaner bike. My crotch and聽I survived the journey unscathed.

With the biking adventure behind me, I had to hustle to make the 107-mile drive to the park鈥檚 Needles District before sunset. I cranked up the volume on a banjo-heavy playlist and headed聽south, passing mile upon mile of crumbling tablelands.

Canyonlands鈥 Needles District is known for its otherworldly landscape of bright-orange spires and giant mushrooms of Cedar Mesa sandstone. Hiking amid its formations feels like being plopped right into a desert-themed version of Alice in Wonderland. You feel unusually small as you make your way through聽the maze. It takes effort to stay on track and not get lost.

Since I had visited two years prior, this time I wanted to spice things up and go backcountry camping. Alone. I shrugged my fully loaded pack onto my shoulders and nervously made my way up and down the rough-cut sandstone stairs leading into Elephant Canyon.

I shuffled through聽the Martian terrain, trekking between聽narrow slits in huge boulders and up a sandy wash before reaching my picture-perfect聽numbered campsite with no one around for miles. Once my tent was up, I ate a simple dinner among聽the glowing, fire-red rocks as the sun sank.

The moon was a ribbon-thin waning crescent, and I found the vast dark, with no city lights, almost terrifying to take in. An incessant wind kept my tent flaps vibrating all night. Sleep came intermittently.

When morning dawned, though, the light felt warmer, kinder. I boiled water and sat on a rock, humming softly. I鈥檇 spent the night on Mars, and yet,聽somehow,聽here I was, enjoying coffee with my feet firmly on the Earth.

Who needs NASA when you鈥檝e got Canyonlands?

62 Parks Traveler Canyonlands Info

Size: 337,598 acres

Location: Eastern Utah

Created In: 1964 (national park)

Best For: Backpacking, hiking, mountain biking, four-wheel-drive聽adventures, geology, river rafting

When to Go: Spring (35 to 82 degrees) and fall (30 to 88 degrees) offer the most temperate weather for those looking to hit the trails. Winters (22 to 52 degrees) are cold but crowd-free. The park is best avoided in summer, when temperatures聽hover above 100 degrees聽and monsoon storms聽can make for dangerous travel.

Where to Stay: Canyonlands National Park has , with assigned, well-spaced campsites available for hikers, bikers, and four-wheel-drive motorists. In the Needles District, backpackers must stay in designated campsites, while other park areas allow visitors to reserve space in an at-large zone.

Where to Eat: in downtown Moab serves a mean turkey panini with a bite-size聽dessert on the side. The entire menu can be prepared for grab-and-go service, which is perfect for social distancing or outdoor lovers eager to quickly get a move on.

Mini 国产吃瓜黑料: Hike to the edge of Grand View Point. Located at the southern tip of the park鈥檚 Island in the Sky District, this destination features聽a striking, panoramic view of the La Sal Mountains, White Rim Road, and the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. Head along聽the accessible, 100-yard paved trail, or traverse the canyon鈥檚 rim on a relatively flat two-mile round-trip.

Mega 国产吃瓜黑料: Go mountain biking. The area is famous for its slickrock cycling trails and red-rock canyons. in Moab offers a stellar variety of options for every level, from half-day introductory rides to multi-day overnight adventures along the infamous聽White Rim Road (starting at $105).

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