Travel - 国产吃瓜黑料 - Destinations - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /adventure-travel/ Live Bravely Thu, 24 Apr 2025 14:16:47 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Travel - 国产吃瓜黑料 - Destinations - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /adventure-travel/ 32 32 This Is the Most Crowded National Park in the Country. You Should Still Go. /adventure-travel/national-parks/great-smoky-national-park/ Fri, 25 Apr 2025 09:34:07 +0000 /?p=2701354 This Is the Most Crowded National Park in the Country. You Should Still Go.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park might be crowded, but that鈥檚 only because it鈥檚 awesome. Here鈥檚 why a trip to GSMNP should still be on your bucket list.

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This Is the Most Crowded National Park in the Country. You Should Still Go.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) had more than 12 million visitors in 2024, or about 34,000 guests every day. That makes the 522,427-acre swath of mountains, streams, and historic farmland the most popular national park in the country鈥攂y far. The next-most-visited national park is Zion, with 4.95 million visitors last year, followed by the Grand Canyon at 4.92 million.

GSMNP is consistently the top park for visitation partly because of its location in southwestern North Carolina and southeastern Tennessee; it鈥檚 within 800 miles of 60 percent of America鈥檚 population.

And also because it鈥檚 beautiful. The forest is lush and green, blanketing the park鈥檚 6,000-foot peaks and obscuring streams, waterfalls, and outcroppings. There are meadows full of elk and rivers stacked with trout, steep slopes, and placid lakes. GSMNP encapsulates the best the Southern Appalachians have to offer.

Man running under fall foliage
GSMNP is consistently the top park for visitation partly because of its location and partly because it’s awesome. (Photo: Harrison Shull/Cavan)

So, yes, people show up. On my recent trip to GSMNP, I sat for a solid hour in bumper-to-bumper traffic on the Foothills Parkway, a scenic two-lane road that cruises the western border of the park. It sucked. But once I got inside the park, I was able to ditch the crowds and hike to a high elevation bald where I had a view of some of the prettiest damn mountains in the United States.

鈥淕iven the massive crowds, it could be tempting just to avoid the park altogether,鈥 says Steven Reinhold, a photographer and owner of , which works in and around GSMNP. 鈥淏ut you鈥檇 miss out on what is arguably the most beautiful and biodiverse landscape in the country.鈥

The park, he notes, spans from 1,000 to over 6,600 feet in elevation, supporting a variety of different microclimates and ecosystems that range from Southern Appalachian hardwood to Canadian spruce-fir forests, within a few miles of each other.

鈥淭he cultural history is diverse, too,鈥 he says, 鈥渇rom the stories and traditions of the Cherokee People听to the preserved farms and homesteads of its early European settlers.鈥

Great Smoky Mountains
Great Smoky National Park is home to one of the most biodiverse ecosystems in the country. (Photo: Jonathan Mauer/iStock)

Keep in mind that if you do plan to visit this spring or summer, Western North Carolina is still recovering from Hurricane Helene. While Great Smoky Mountains National Park was largely spared by the brunt of that storm, it鈥檚 possible that some roads or trails could be closed for rehabilitation. Be sure to check the status of the park and active closures .

Living in nearby Asheville, North Carolina, I鈥檝e had a lot of adventures inside GSMNP. Sure, I鈥檝e waited for parking spots, but I鈥檝e also hunted for salamanders with my children, gotten lost off trail (twice), pedaled my bike across the entire park, run into black bears, jumped off waterfalls, climbed historic lookout towers, and paddled pristine lakes. The park might be crowded, but that鈥檚 only because it鈥檚 awesome.

Here are six reasons why I think Great Smoky Mountains National Park is still worth visiting.

1. The Foliage Is Incredible

autumn colors mountain
Autumn colors light up Great Smoky Mountains National Park. (Photo: Sean Board/Getty)

Come fall, the hardwood trees that blanket almost every inch of Great Smoky Mountains National Park听transform into a riot of red, orange, yellow, and gold from mid-September to early November. The timing for peak foliage depends on the elevation: the higher the trees, the earlier they turn. To see the most color overall, shoot for mid-October.

Cruising Newfound Gap Road, a 31-mile highway that crosses the heart of the park, will deliver non-stop color to the windows of your car. It鈥檚 such a pretty drive, you probably won鈥檛 even mind the crowds. If you want color with less traffic, head to the eastern border of the park, where the Blue Ridge Parkway ends and the begins.

The first portion of the road is paved and has overlooks similar to what you鈥檒l find on the parkway, with views of the valley below and ridges on the horizon. After nine miles, the pavement turns into one-lane, gravel Heintooga Round Bottom Road, which drops for 14 winding miles into the depths of the park. It鈥檚 a slow, one-way trek that puts you in the thick of the golden forest of autumn, passing creeks and small falls before forming a partial loop and arriving in the town of Cherokee, a vibrant gateway community within the 56,600-acre Qualla Boundary, the cultural hub of the Eastern Band of Cherokee.

2. Explore Car-Free Biking听

Great Smoky Mountains biking
Cycling is one of the best ways to experience Great Smoky Mountains National Park. (Photo: Getty Images)

I鈥檝e ridden my bike across the park on Newfound Gap Road, which was beautiful but harrowing, as the car traffic on that highway is nonstop and the drivers seem unaccustomed to sharing the road with cyclists. Fortunately, park management has acknowledged us two-wheelers by creating inside the popular Cades Cove throughout the busy summer months.

Every Wednesday, from May 7 to September 24, the 11-mile loop through Cades Cove is closed to cars so walkers and cyclists can have the valley to themselves. This makes an easy, family-friendly pedal that delivers pastoral views and opportunities to check out historic structures such as cabins, churches, and school buildings. Among the plentiful hiking opportunities, is a five-mile out-and-back that follows a stream culminating at the 20-foot Abrams Falls.

3. You Can See鈥攁nd Hear鈥攖he Elk Rut听

Elk in Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Elk were reintroduced to the park in 2001. (Photo: George Rose/Getty Images)

Elk were extirpated from North Carolina back in the late 1700s, but the National Park Service the species to GSMNP in 2001, bringing 25 into the park from Kentucky. Almost 25 years later, the elk population is thriving, with numbers reaching almost 250, according to the .

And they鈥檙e huge. The bull elk in the park weigh an average of 600 to 700 pounds and can stand five feet tall at the shoulder. When my children were about seven, my wife and I took them to see the elk before Christmas, and they were convinced the animals were reindeer.

Fall is the best time to see herds, as it鈥檚 their mating season, known as the rut, when males bugle and spar for the attention of females. Cataloochee Valley, in the southeastern corner of the park, typically has the largest concentration of the animals, and the big meadow off Cove Creek Road is a good spot to watch and listen for the calls.

I鈥檝e seen the animals throughout the Smokies, from the pastoral Cades Cove on the western side to the high elevations of Balsam Mountain on the eastern edge. The elk are magnificent, but keep your distance and stay quiet so as to not disturb them.

4. The Fireflies Put On a Spectacular Show

Fireflies in Great Smoky Mountains
The fireflies put on a show every June. (Photo: Courtesy of Great Smoky Mountains National Park)

Fireflies are a delight throughout summer in the Southern Appalachians and beyond, but a species of found inside the park puts on a choreographed light show every June. The bioluminescent beetles flash in unison, five to eight times in a row, pause for several seconds, then kick in again.

The prime time to catch the show is usually early June. You鈥檒l have to register in the ($1 fee) for a chance to see the splendor. It鈥檚 not easy to get a ticket鈥20,000 people entered the lottery for just 1,240 vehicle passes in 2024鈥攂ut you can鈥檛 win if you don鈥檛 play. Or, you can book a guided backpacking trip with , which covers roughly 13 miles of moderate terrain in the Elkmont area of the park over two days, taking in waterfalls and wildflowers during the day and synchronous fireflies at night ($1,970 for two people).

And the fireflies are just the beginning. The Smokies comprise the most biodiverse unit in the entire national park system, with over 19,000 species of bugs, plants, and animals. The Flamed Tigersnail, which can be found inside the park, emits a bioluminescent orange mucus when it鈥檚 feeling threatened. Meanwhile, the hellbender salamander can reach 29 inches long. And did you hear the elk?

5. Winter Is a Great Time to Visit听

Tourists tour the mountains on the border between the territories of Tennessee and North Carolina in Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Want to avoid crowds? Hit the park in the winter. (Photo: Ronaldo Silva/Getty Images)

While I鈥檝e met people at Newfound Gap who have driven up from Florida in January so their kids can see snow for the first time, by and large visitation drops significantly in winter, and it鈥檚 a great time to explore the park. The trees don鈥檛 have leaves, which might sound like a bummer, but their absence reveals long-range views from trails that are usually socked in by the canopy.

Moreover, in my opinion, the best reason to visit GSMNP in the winter is the cross-country skiing; some of the park鈥檚 highest roads go unplowed during heavy snowstorms, turning them into XC playgrounds for the hardy. The seven-mile Clingmans Dome Road leads to the highest point in the park, formerly called Clingmans Dome and newly renamed Kuwohi in honor of the Cherokee people who consider the lofty peak sacred. Kuwohi, which collects the lion鈥檚 share of powder, is unplowed all season. Check before going鈥擧ighway 441, aka Newfound Gap Road, is often closed for plowing, preventing access to Kuwohi during the early part of storms. When the Newfound Gap Road opens, you can ski on Clingmans Dome Road and into Kuwohi.

I also like to watch , the innkeeper鈥檚 blog for the backcountry LeConte Lodge, which sits a mile high in elevation, for storm forecasts and snow totals.

6. Yes, You Can Avoid the Crowds. Here鈥檚 how.听

boy and dog paddle kayak on Fontana Lake
Paddling Fontana Lake is a great way to beat the grounds.

According to the most recent from the park service, Cades Cove is the most frequented spot in the park, with almost half of all peoplee planning to spend time in that area. Kuwohi, in the center of the park, and the on the western edge of the park, also get a lot of traffic, while half of all people also plan to hit the gateway towns of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, according to the same study.

What am I getting at? GSMNP might attract 12 million bodies, but most of them are going to the same places. They hit Gatlinburg, visit Cades Cove, and drive a piece of Newfound Gap Road to see Kuwohi.

That makes it pretty easy to avoid the crowds if you know what you鈥檙e doing. I鈥檝e spent entire days inside GSMNP feeling like I had the place to myself.

鈥淭here鈥檚 not even available parking at popular spots like Cades Cove and Clingmans Dome in the summer and fall,鈥 says Steve Dunkin, the president of Smoky Mountains Hiking Club, who also volunteers for the park inside Cades Cove. 鈥淚nstead, visit the North Carolina side of the park, or the Cosby and Big Creek areas on the north end of the park, all of which see far less traffic.鈥

I like hiking to Andrews Bald on the , a 3.6-mile out-and-back that starts on the popular Clingmans Dome Road, but quickly leaves the crowds behind. Most people tend to stick to the nature trails and scenic walk up the concrete lookout tower, known as Clingmans Dome Tower, at the top of the mountain. You鈥檒l pass through a high-elevation spruce/fir forest before hitting the bald, a grassy area with views deep into the park.

Cades Cove, Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Fields of wildflowers in Cades Cove, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, where park service has designated some days car-free for bikers and hikers (Photo: Courtesy Warren Bielenberg/NPS)

Or you can do something hard. The majority of visitors stick to short trails close to trailheads. I recently hiked to the top of Mount Cammerer, a craggy sub-5,000-foot peak in the northern corner of the park with an incredible view from a historic lookout tower. I had the entire mountaintop to myself. Why? Because getting there required a . And it was totally worth it. The view was stellar, taking in the Pigeon River Gorge below. The Cammerer tower is unique in the Southern Appalachians, as it was modeled after the live-in fire towers more common in the Western U.S.

You could also check out Fontana Lake, a 10,000-acre reservoir on the southwestern edge of the park, which offers lonely coves for paddling (look for rope swings!) and harbors isolated trails. I like the 3.5-mile piece of the that starts next to the Fontana Dam and climbs steeply to Shuckstack Fire Tower, where you鈥檒l find a broad view of the lake, Smokies, and neighboring Nantahala National Forest.

A foggy walk through the woods of the park
Proof that those who seek solitude will still find it within the park. (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Looking to camp? Try the under-valued , a 43-site facility sitting at 5,300 feet in elevation between the towns of Cherokee and Maggie Valley that has availability long after the uber-popular Cataloochee Campground fills up ($30 per night, make reservations up to six months in advance). I just checked and found sites for this upcoming weekend.

And if you have your heart set on hitting Kuwohi or Cades Cove, you can still do it without the crowds. 鈥淕o midweek, or time your visit for sunrise,鈥 says the area guide Steven Reinhold. 鈥淗it the park early and you鈥檒l be done with your adventure before most visitors ever reach the trailhead.鈥


Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national parks columnist. He鈥檚 been visiting Great Smoky Mountains National Park since he was a kid, and writing this article reminded him how much he loves that landscape.

author photo Graham Averill
The author with his daughter Addie. (Photo: Liz Averill)

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I Hiked the Southernmost Trail in Patagonia. Here鈥檚 What I Learned. /adventure-travel/destinations/south-america/dientes-de-navarino/ Thu, 24 Apr 2025 09:00:42 +0000 /?p=2700833 I Hiked the Southernmost Trail in Patagonia. Here鈥檚 What I Learned.

Battered by Antarctic storms in the southern Andes at the very tip of Chile, I met my biggest mental outdoor challenge yet on the Dientes de Navarino, the southernmost trail in the world.

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I Hiked the Southernmost Trail in Patagonia. Here鈥檚 What I Learned.

On the first night of the Dientes de Navarino circuit in Chilean Tierra del Fuego, I burrowed into my sleeping bag in my tent perched on the banks of the alpine Laguna del Salto. When I peered outside, I saw an opaque gray sky and a jagged, silent landscape dusted with snow from the blustery weather. As I yanked my hat down to cover my ears, I noticed a feeling I鈥檇 never had on a backpacking trip before: I was burned out.

I鈥檝e planned and executed dozens of backpacking trips, including a solo hike of the Colorado Trail. Usually, at the end of a tough day of hiking, I鈥檓 tired but still motivated to complete the adventure.

Isla Navarino
Isla Navarino has a savage magnificence. (Photo: Olivia James)

But that night on the Dientes de Navarino circuit, I felt different. We鈥檇 only hiked seven miles with about 2,500 feet of vert that day, but a late afternoon start, relentless wind, and zero visibility had limited our progress. While pushing through crappy weather wasn鈥檛 anything new for me, that night I felt a deeper level of exhaustion seep into the more profound layers of my being. It was emotional fatigue, a lack of that fiery determination that would usually get me through the discomfort and dread of icy days ahead in these mountains at the end of the world.

I shouldn鈥檛 have been surprised. I鈥檇 been running my life as a tight ship, traveling vigorously and working remotely for the previous year. I鈥檇 spent six months exploring Mexico from Jalisco to the Guatemalan border, then a summer in the Southern Hemisphere, traveling through Chilean and Argentine Patagonia and completing several multi-day hiking trips.

Horses in Puerto Williams
Puerto Williams, the gateway to the Dientes de Navarino circuit, 听is a small, friendly town (Photo: Olivia James)

Managing my mobile lifestyle felt increasingly overwhelming. Deep in the Chilean backcountry, I began to crave stability and consistency. But I stubbornly maintained a vice-like grip on the vision of doing and seeing as much as I could on my way down to Tierra del Fuego before I needed to return to the U.S. for a family wedding. I gave myself periods of respite here and there, like a couple of months in Santiago and a month in the Argentine Patagonian town of , but I was beginning to realize these well-intentioned stints weren鈥檛 sufficient to soothe my scattered and travel-wearied soul.

The Dientes de Navarino mountains
The Dientes de Navarino mountains. (Photo: Olivia James)

Yet, every time some part of me whispered to stop, I ignored it. I simply could not turn away from the unbelievable luck I felt I had, having the opportunity to spend four months in one of the best hiking regions in the world during peak season. Making it down to the bottom of the Americas felt like a tantalizing adventure I couldn鈥檛 let go of.

My travel approach is usually centered around seeking the unsought. I was looking for remote, almost unheard-of trails, which is how I came to discover the Dientes de Navarino circuit one night in my apartment in Santiago, reading through the last hidden corners of my guidebook. When Google returned a scant few results about the trail, I knew I was on to something.

Pureto Williams
The view from the overnight ferry trip to Puerto Williams. (Photo: Olivia James)

In , Charles Darwin鈥檚 journal of his navigation around the Americas in the 1830s, he describes with awe the 鈥渟avage magnificence鈥 of Tierra del Fuego. One glance at the spiked peaks jutting into the somber gray sky, and it鈥檚 easy to understand why. The Dientes de Navarino mountain range, or 鈥淭eeth of Navarino,鈥 so called for its jagged namesake peaks, is located in the Fuegian Andes on Navarino Island, one of the last landmasses before Antarctica. This small island is ever-so-fragmented from the main island, Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, with Cape Horn directly to its south.

To arrive at Navarino Island, visitors must take a plane or 150-mile overnight ferry across the Magellan Strait from Punta Arenas, the entry point to Tierra del Fuego and the last city on the mainland before the terrain collapses into a network of glacier-covered fjords and islands. I arrived at the 3,000-person town of Puerto Williams, Navarino Island鈥檚 hub and the southernmost settlement in the world.

Sunny and snowy tent along lake
A rare blue sky sighting. (Photo: Olivia James)

The island鈥檚 Dientes circuit is a remote and wild 27-mile route that circumnavigates the Dientes peaks with 7,000 feet of elevation gain, running through perpetually damp and cold subantarctic forest past lagoons, craggy boulder fields, snowy summits, and a variety of endemic trees, mosses, and lichen.

It鈥檚 challenging, principally due to badly maintained or nonexistent trails over rugged terrain and unpredictable, severe weather conditions. A single day in high summer can include anything from blue skies to snowstorms and violent subpolar winds. It鈥檚 difficult to plan your trip around good weather because of rapidly changing forecasts. Route finding is fundamental鈥攁nd stressful. The way forward is often indiscernible, with trail markers like signs, cairns, and ribbons, few and far between.

Each of these factors wouldn鈥檛 be as daunting on their own, but put together, they can make for a formidable challenge demanding constant caution, forcing sometimes painstakingly slow progress when conditions are bad.

The weather in Patagonia is notoriously brutal. (Photo: Olivia James)

Of course, it was this guaranteed adventure that I could not resist. The fact that very few people I had met on my travels in South America had heard of the Dientes de Navarino mountain range told me I was headed to the right place. I spoke to anyone I could along my way who knew about it, and spent my evenings crammed into hostel bunks all over Patagonia, scrolling endlessly through hikers鈥 trip reviews on . I decided to roll into town and see who else was planning to hike the trail.

Hikers in Patagonia
Lisa (left) and the author (right) pose for the rare hiker they met along the trail. (Photo: Courtesy of Olivia James)

On a clear summer day in January, I arrived at my friendly hostel in Puerto Williams. Shortly thereafter, I received a WhatsApp message. 鈥淗i! I got your number from AllTrails!鈥

(Weeks past, I had left a comment on the trail鈥檚 AllTrails webpage looking for hiking companions.) The woman who had messaged me was named Lisa. She was 26, from the Netherlands, and had recently embarked on a solo hitchhiking odyssey through South America. A savvy hiker who had completed many long-distance backpacking trips, I liked her spunk and fearlessness. After talking through logistics, we agreed to team up and tackle the trail together.

The day of our departure was gray and blustery, nothing like the glowing recent trip reports of gorgeous weather, which in this part of the world is a blessing seldom enjoyed. During the first few hours, we walked a pleasant path through the lush Fuegian forest, the darkness and cold giving the landscape a melancholy, gloomy quality. Eventually, the gusts and snow picked up, and once we broke above treeline heading up to the first of the circuit鈥檚 four passes, the rest of the day was a white vortex. We finally got to our campsite on the banks of spire-framed Laguna Salto.

Pointy rock
Los dientes de Dientes de Navarino. (Photo: Olivia James)

There, in my sleeping bag that first night, I felt the oppressive weight of my type-A ambition bearing down on me physically and mentally. I felt devoid of motivation. I knew I was wildly fortunate to be sleeping in this otherworldly landscape, but, for the first time, I felt smothered by the months of constant motion. The captain of the Beagle, the ship Charles Darwin navigated around the Americas, said that the oppressively somber weather in Tierra del Fuego was such that 鈥渢he soul of man dies in him.鈥 His words, to my surprise, resonated.

I could鈥檝e decided to turn around the next day and go back, but I didn鈥檛 want to abandon Lisa, and I also couldn鈥檛 bear to walk away from my goal. So I continued.

I endured three more days of an unrewarding suffer-fest. The morning of day two, navigating a slippery, icy rock face along the ridge up to Paso de los Dientes, staring down the sheer drop into the depths of the frigid Laguna del Paso below, I sunk further into mental fatigue.

View of lake in Chilean Patagonia
Savage, but still magnificent. (Photo: Olivia James)

My surroundings were as wild and gorgeous as I ever could鈥檝e wanted, but I was weary and depleted. At one point, coming down the steep descent from that pass, I slid and fell in the mud. The weight of my pack lurched me forward, and I hit my knees on the sharp rocks sticking out of the forest floor. I burst into tears, more from the shock and emotion than the pain itself.

I knew in that moment that I was ready to listen to myself and take a break.

But I had to complete the hike first. Lisa and I put our heads together to hunt down precious trail marker after trail marker as we tramped through the miles of muddy peat bogs and twisted dwarf forest under the gently falling snow. Her zeal and upbeat attitude, even through the most unpleasant moments, kept me from descending further into a pit of negativity.

Walking down screen field
Coming down from Paso Virginia, right before the snowstorm intensified (Photo: Olivia James)

On the third day, we began our ascent up 2,800 foot Paso Virginia, the biggest pass of the circuit. We moved past the treeline and entered the alpine tundra. As we gained more elevation, the weather conditions deteriorated. We began to move farther away from the last flat, semi-protected patch of ground in view and headed through the boulder field toward the gray void above. It occurred to me that my extremities were as numb as I had ever felt them. My hands and feet burned and tingled so painfully that I could barely move them. I had been wet since the day before due to the constant precipitation and complete lack of sunshine, but it didn鈥檛 become an issue until we gained more elevation and hit worse weather and lower temperatures.

With so many unknowns ahead of us and with such poor visibility, I told Lisa we should pitch our tent to warm up for a while in that last flat spot before moving on. I wanted to stay for the night and let the snowstorm pass, but she reminded me that the weather would probably get even worse that night; coming down the other very steep side of that pass in fresh snow the following morning could be dangerous. We chose to forge ahead.

Arriving at the top of Paso Virginia, we peered down to find a heart-stoppingly steep scree slope down to the valley. A few ginger first steps into the loose jumble of small rocks, sand, and snow soon felt like skiing through gravel.

hiking in the fog
Even Darwin thought the region was soul-crushing. (Photo: Olivia James)

We made it down the pass and set up camp at the bottom just as the snowstorm started intensifying. My pack, which had always been totally waterproof in the climate back home in Colorado, had soaked through. This left my sleeping bag barely dry enough to keep me warm. I was cold and wet. Lisa offered me her extra dry clothes.

Miraculously, the next morning we woke up to civil, temperate weather that had caused the snow to mostly melt while we slept. I pulled on my icy trail runners with exhaustion, but also relief for the weather shift and excitement that we were so close to leaving this experience behind.

Beagle Channel hiking
The Beagle Channel鈥攁nd immense relief at being at the end of the trail. (Photo: Olivia James)

The biggest hurdle we had remaining was to work our way through the rest of the forest for the next few hours until we hit cow pastures, which would signify our proximity to civilization. Even though this last stretch was all downhill, it wasn鈥檛 easy.

The original trail had long since been dammed and flooded by beavers, which had arrived in the 1940s after a disastrous idea by the Argentine government to start a fur trade. The lack of natural predators created a population explosion that has since led to waterway disruption and trail destruction, pushing us into the dense forest surrounding the original trail.

After a few hours of bushwhacking, we broke through the last of the beech forest and caught sight of the Beagle Channel stretching out in the distance. Looking out at the lumpy green cow pastures that indicated the last couple miles of trail, I felt a rush of relief.

As we emerged from the trail, we approached a quiet country road. We plopped down and waited for someone to drive by that might take us back to town.


Olivia James is 翱耻迟蝉颈诲别鈥檚 former newsletter producer. She writes about travel and health from Buenos Aires. Spending parts of her childhood in Asia ignited a love for adventure, which has led to her solo traveling and living in Latin America since 2018. You can follow her travels on her , and stay tuned for more of her stories for us at 国产吃瓜黑料, to come.

Olivia James
The author on one of her many travel adventures. (Photo: Olivia James)

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At This Costa Rican Retreat, Your Room Is in the Rainforest /adventure-travel/destinations/central-america/corcovado-wilderness-lodge-costa-rica/ Fri, 18 Apr 2025 09:00:40 +0000 /?p=2699907 At This Costa Rican Retreat, Your Room Is in the Rainforest

Corcovado Wilderness Lodge is the only hotel within Costa Rica's Corcovado National Park, which guests are encouraged to explore and help preserve.

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At This Costa Rican Retreat, Your Room Is in the Rainforest

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

The trailhead behind behind my villa is a tiny tunnel into lush green, marked only by a small black sign with the words 鈥淭ucan Trail鈥 printed in sunny yellow lettering. As I follow the path from the resort鈥檚 clearing into the thick shelter of trees, trunks wound in giant, vining monsteras that make a mockery of my houseplants, I repeatedly remind myself that I am in the rainforest, a giddy thought and a now dreamlike reality.

Tucan Trail, the access point for my (very brief) solo rainforest exploration.听(Photo: Calin Van Paris)

Thanks to era illustrator Lisa Frank and the environmental education of the 1990s, the rainforest has taken up major real estate in my imagination since I was a kid. So when I had the opportunity to visit 听, the only resort in Corcovado National Park on Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula, visions of macaws and toucans rendered in rainbow flew through my head.

During my time at Corcovado Wilderness Lodge, I see both, along with capuchin monkeys, rotund tapirs, snuffling coati, a boa constrictor, and more. The real-life encounters are better than any of my fantasies鈥攑articularly when viewed through the resort鈥檚 lens of biological preservation.

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The Lodge

corcovado wilderness lodge
Each villa in Rainforest Village is mere steps from forested trails.听(Photo: The Point PR)

Corcovado Wilderness Lodge’s 189-acre property is entirely off-grid and only accessible by boat. The rainforest, all 250,000 acres of it, borders the resort on three sides, the fourth being the palm-tree-peppered coastline. Four-wheelers transport guests up the steep, rugged rise from the coastline to the resort鈥檚 rooms, two pools, yoga shalas (though there鈥檚 one by the ocean, too), spa pavilion, and 360-degree, ridiculously beautiful views.

Wherever I wander, the environment is palpable. Monkeys swing through trees by the pool while tapirs nap beneath the Lodge鈥檚 risen walkways; flowering plants and fruit trees provide pops of vibrant color against all that saturated green; and the sounds of the rainforest never cease, the hum of insects and crystalline calls of native birds a soundtrack to every step.

鈥淭hat鈥檚 the beauty of this place,鈥 says Operations Director Blake Delatte, citing everything from the rich microbiome of the rainforest soil to the two big cats that occasionally saunter through the property. 鈥淥ur whole world used to be alive, and it still is here.鈥

Immersion Is a Luxury

Scarlet macaws decorating the trees along the coastline. (Photo: Bonnie Powers)

In the place of amenities typically required by a 5-star resort (most notably valet parking) the Lodge suggests that the ultimate luxury is the opportunity to vacation within, and help preserve, an exceedingly rare environment. Osa is considered one of the most biologically diverse terrestrial ecosystems , and Corcovado is among the last low-laying tropical rainforests in the world.

Rather than simply celebrating this, Corcovado Wilderness Lodge works to preserve the area through research, education, and guest participation. As an example, the property recently opened an onsite research center in partnership with , a marine conservation NGO. The space allows Innoceana鈥檚 team of engineers, biologists, and divers to study (and better protect) the area鈥檚 marine ecosystems, and guests a chance to head out on expeditions and work alongside themwhile receiving PADI dive certifications听in the process.

鈥淲e wanted to figure out a way to fund the science, but also bring a different kind of education and hospitality experience to our guests,鈥 says Delatte. 鈥淚 envision the hotel as a means to create positive change; it鈥檚 a tool that allows us to do really interesting things for our local communities and the environment.鈥

Some additional partnerships and programs include the , which keeps tabs on the aforementioned big cats; Pristine Playa, a beach clean-up program that transforms trash found on听the beach听into building materials used throughout the Lodge; and Innoceana鈥檚 Blue Warriors, an initiative that teaches local kids English while offering education around heritage, environmentalism, and sustainable tourism.

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

Small motorboats take guests and members of Innoceana out to sea.听(Photo: The Point PR)

While walks through the rainforest are available to anyone via a network of private trails, a guided tour into helps ensure that you understand the full scope of your surroundings. Our hike comes with ample urgings to stop strolling and to look and listen, those pauses rewarded by monkey sightings, closer looks at plants and insects, and a reminder of the region鈥檚 vibrancy.

The tours aren鈥檛 limited to the ground: up the canopy, researchers study rare orchids and epiphytes typically only accessible when a tree falls. Guests can join in, or visit the tree climbing area to get a new perspective sans science. And for sea lovers, trips to the are an essential. Ca帽o, located just nine miles off the coast of Corovado, is a marine sanctuary surrounded by coral reefs and an abundance of sea life such as rays, sea turtles, and a rainbow of tropical fish.

Led by Laura Vanopdenbosch, one of Innoceana鈥檚 resident marine biologists, our group takes to the waters of the Pacific with hopes of monitoring humpback whales and hearing their surreal song via hydrophone. The giants elude us, but pods of leaping dolphins and a few snorkeling sessions around the reefs showcase the area鈥檚 teeming life. Afterwards, over lunch, we test water samples collected on our jaunt. Guests are also invited to partake in coral data collection, helping the team place sensors while enjoying a dive.

Choice Rooms

corcovado wilderness lodge
The rooms in Oceanview Village are nestled in the trees and positioned for an idyllic view.听(Photo: The Point PR)

I was lucky enough to experience two of the hotel鈥檚 room types during my stay: a suite in Oceanview Village and a villa in Rainforest Village. For privacy, tapir sightings, and one of the most beautiful bathtub views you’re likely to find, the network of ocean view rooms is impossible to beat. Meanwhile, Rainforest Village finds you closer to the pools, gardens, and your neighbors, an outdoor shower guaranteeing that you can still enjoy an al fresco cleansing moment.

Eat and Drink

corcovado national park
Corcovado Wilderness Lodge听restaurants mix Costa Rican fare with seasonal produce. (Photo: The Point PR)

Corcovado Wilderness Lodge has two open-air restaurants, which is good, because a trip to town for a meal is a big ask (you’d need to schedule a boat ride to leave the resort).

Los Vitrales is centrally located near Rainforest Village, the pools, and the lobby, while Terra Kitchen and its epic vistas can be found closer to Oceanview Village.听Both restaurants feature plant-forward menus that are constantly shifting, the better to showcase the Lodge’s own fruits, vegetables, and fresh catches.

Grab a cocktail or sip on wellness elixirs (the Blue Lotus infusion gave me some lovely vivid dreams) from crafted from the region鈥檚 plants to ease or energize your mind and body, depending on your mood. Founder Ariana Ayales was born and raised in Costa Rica, and uses her knowledge of the area’s plant life for inspiration.

When to Go

Corcovado鈥檚 dry season runs from December to April making this the most popular time to visit the region. Still, dry is a relative term in the rainforest. During my January stay, we had several showers and one riotous thunderstorm. Keep in mind, September and October are considered Corcovado鈥檚 wettest months.

How to Get There

The breathtaking view upon arrival to Corcovado offers a glimpse of what’s the come.听(Photo: Calin Van Paris)

The journey to Corcovado Wilderness Lodge is an adventure all its own. A flight into San Jos茅 is followed by an hours-long drive to Sierpe. From there, the boat ride, which doubles as a wildlife tour, is just over an hour. (Alternatively, a flight into Drake Bay is followed by a 45minute boat ride.) Scan the mangroves for monkeys and sloths, and enjoy the approach to Corcovado from the waves. A final, smaller boat delivers you from the tour boat to the shores鈥攅xpect to get a little wet.

Don鈥檛 Miss

corcovado wilderness lodge
Yoga teacher Andrew Sealy leads a class in CWL’s forested yoga shala. (Photo: The Point PR)

Chilling by the pools or at the beach is an easy way to unwind, but for some extra pampering, the offers a menu of massages, facials, and more in (surprise!) an outdoor setting. Massages are conceptualized around the Corcovado experience, with options like Fresh Soul, which uses aloe and a quartz massage to soothe sun-soaked skin, and the muscle-releasing Rainforest Delight, an ideal post-hike option. Though in-room services are available, the view from the spa pavilion is among the most epic on the entire property.

Still not relaxed? Yoga props (mats, blocks, bolsters) are available for use at either the oceanfront yoga shala, a deck with a thatched roof at the far end of the property鈥檚 playa, or the forested shala. I鈥檇 opt for the latter鈥攁 dusk practice at the edge of the rainforest, the sounds of animals rustling through the brush and calling through the trees, is an experience I won鈥檛 soon forget.

Details

Price: Starting at $1,500 per person. This includes a three-night stay (which is the minimum), transportation from Sierpe or Drake Bay, all meals, a snorkeling excursion to Ca帽o Island, and a guided hike through Corcovado National Park.

Address: Puntarenas Province, Drake Bay, Costa Rica

To Book:

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The Top 9 Small 国产吃瓜黑料 Towns in the U.S. /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/small-adventure-towns/ Wed, 16 Apr 2025 08:00:15 +0000 /?p=2700021 The Top 9 Small 国产吃瓜黑料 Towns in the U.S.

These tiny hamlets, with less than 6,000 locals, provide the perfect blend of quaint vibes and outdoor fun

The post The Top 9 Small 国产吃瓜黑料 Towns in the U.S. appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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The Top 9 Small 国产吃瓜黑料 Towns in the U.S.

Bigger is not always better. While we spend plenty of time oohing and ahhing over larger mountain towns like Boulder or Chattanooga, there are dozens of smaller hamlets with fewer than 6,000 full-time residents that offer the right combo of amenities and quick access to some of the best spots for outdoor recreation in the country. Here are my favorite small adventure towns across the United States, from minuscule hiking and climbing outposts to bustling ski towns.

Bethel, Maine

Autumn leaves decorate the valley below the Sunday River Ski Resort in Bethel, Maine
Autumn leaves decorate the valley below the Sunday River Ski Resort in Bethel, Maine. (Photo: Cynthia Farr-Weinfeld/Getty)

Population: 2,730

Why I Love It

Bethel is the kind of town that makes you consider relocating. Tucked into Western Maine鈥檚 Lakes and Mountains region, the village itself is super walkable with an eclectic array of restaurants, while being surrounded by public land, from the peaks that make up the expansive White Mountain National Forest to the less-intimidating Community Forest trails accessed directly from town.

The slow-moving Androscoggin River passes through the village (prime tubing in the summer) and an ever-growing is attracting more and more mountain bikers.

Oh, and Bethel is flanked by two ski resorts. is the larger of the two, with more than 2,000 feet of vertical and 750 acres of terrain (not to mention a couple of heated lifts), while is the mom-and-pop ski hill we all wish we had in our backyard, with $39 lift tickets every day, a friendly uphill policy, and a solid mix of terrain to keep it interesting.

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Most people come to Bethel to ski Sunday River. If you鈥檙e looking for a challenge, head to Oz, a zone loaded with steep double black runs, or take Lollapalooza to Blind Ambition, an expansive gladed run on the edge of Jordan Bowl. Bring your mountain bike during the summer. Mt. Abram has lift-served terrain, but you can hit a number of trails directly from the edge of town. is a fun, flowy three-mile loop in the center of the Bethel Village Trails on the south side of the village.

Where to Eat

has a genius cocktail menu, as well as a seafood chowder that hits just right on a cold winter night. If you鈥檙e looking for something more casual, has burgers and a rotating New England IPA on tap.

Where to Stay

The will put you on the southern edge of the village, within walking distance of restaurants, and direct access to some of the town鈥檚 most loved mountain bike trails (from $126 per night).

Stowe, Vermont

Vermont's Stowe offers some of the most intense skiing in the east and a European-style village to stay in after.
Vermont’s Stowe offers some of the most intense skiing in the east and a European-style village to stay in after. (Photo: Greg Petrics/Stowe)

Population: 5,230 or 745

Why I Love It

Quite simply, Stowe is the East Coast鈥檚 best ski town, especially this winter as Stowe Mountain Resort has enjoyed 329 inches of snow (and counting) at the time I鈥檓 writing this article, and then you have the New England charm of the village itself, with its steeples, covered bridges, and brick federal architectural style. And all of this sits in the shadow of the massive Mount Mansfield State Forest and Smugglers鈥 Notch State Park.

Not cool enough yet? How about an aggressive and progressive local population that鈥檚 worked to preserve more than for public use while building out a growing system of singletrack and nordic trails that can be accessed straight from town. Is Stowe still a sleepy hamlet tucked into the hills? Yes and no. The village still feels small, but it can be expensive, and it can get crowded, but that鈥檚 the proverbial price you pay for being the best ski town on the East Coast.

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In the winter, you鈥檙e obviously skiing Stowe, which is one of the East鈥檚 best resorts, with more than 2,000 vertical feet of drop, and 653 skiable acres split between two mountains: Mount Mansfield and Spruce Peak.When the snow melts, combine a slice of the and the for an eight-mile loop that climbs the 4,393-foot Mount Mansfield via a 2,000-foot climb that includes some ladders and scrambling before reaching the treeless summit, where you can see the surrounding Green Mountains and the White Mountains in New Hampshire.

Mountain bikers should pedal the Stowe Recreation Trail, a six-mile paved path along the What River, to access , Stowe鈥檚 signature trail network with 12 miles of purpose-built singletrack. Make sure you hit the mile-long Florence, considered by many the best flow trail in the northeast. And listen, everyone should make a point to visit Stowe during fall, when the weather is crisp and the hardwoods are popping off in a barrage of reds, yellows, and golds.

Where to Eat

is incredibly hip, incredibly good, and incredibly crowded, but get on the waitlist and when it鈥檚 your chance, order the Vermont cheddar fritters and their smash burger and listen to the DJ spinning from a wall of vinyl. And if you鈥檙e in Vermont, you have to stop by the and pick up a four pack of the beer that put the brewery on the map, Heady Topper.

Where to Stay

Stowe has resorts attached to the ski hill and quaint bed and breakfasts, but check out the new cabins and lodge rooms at a few miles outside of town, with direct access to Stowe鈥檚 Recreation Path. The lodge has its own bar, pool, and hot tub and a grassy lawn overlooking the West Branch of the Little River (from $151 per night).

Silverton, Colorado

Snow in Downtown Silverton, Colorado on of the best small adventure towns
A dusting of snow in downtown Silverton, Colorado, where you can peruse the shops and restaurants to re-fuel after a day of heli-skiing in the San Juan Mountains. (Photo: David Toussaint/Getty)

Population: 713

Why I Love It

Sitting at 9,300 feet in elevation, Silverton is a former gold and silver mining town that has found new life as a basecamp for outdoor adventure, thanks to the surrounding San Juan Mountains鈥攁 hotbed of skiing in the winter and alpine adventure in the summer. If you鈥檙e standing in downtown Silverton, you鈥檙e within and 15 miles of seven of Colorado鈥檚 14,000-foot summits.

The entire town is a National Historic Landmark with buildings erected in the late 1800s that still retain their Wild West vibe. Greene Street, the main road through the heart of town, is the only paved street in the municipality. I鈥檝e visited Silverton during the winter, on my way to ski the backcountry terrain in the San Juan mountains, but I鈥檓 dying to get back in the summer and early fall to check out the growing network of mountain bike trails and see the aspens surrounding town turn gold.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料s

Experience the best of the San Juans in summer by hiking the , located in the Weminuche Wilderness of the San Juan National Forest. The eight-mile out and back passes through meadows packed with wildflowers before delivering you to a trio of high-alpine lakes that are known to house rainbow, cutthroat, and brook trout. The hike tops out at 12,000 feet in elevation, but you can climb higher by picking up the Continental Divide Trail above the lakes.

The local bike club, the Silverton Singletrack Society, is in the process of building out 30 miles of singletrack in a system called that you can pedal to from town. The first six-mile loop has just opened, offering a steep climb before releasing you to a 1,000-foot, flowy descent.

If you have the skillset, I highly recommend skiing , which is like no other ski 鈥渞esort鈥 in the country. A single chairlift rises from a warming hut, from the top you can skin out to a cornucopia of backcountry lines, all of which demand expert-level skiing. If that鈥檚 not enough terrain, Silverton Mountain also offers heli-bumps from the top of the chairlift.

Where to Eat

has great IPAs as well as a full menu, from cauliflower tacos to pizzas loaded with sausage and bacon.

Where to Stay

The has 15 modern rooms in a multi-story building that once housed a gas station, ballroom, and lodge hall. The hotel sits in the heart of downtown and every booking comes with a $10 drink credit in the lobby bar (private rooms from $176 per night; bunks in the 10-bed bunk room from $75 per night).

Highlands, North Carolina

Springtime at Dry Falls on the Cullasaja River on scenic drive between Franklin and Highlands, North Carolina.
Springtime at Dry Falls on the Cullasaja River on the scenic drive between Franklin and Highlands, North Carolina. (Photo: Dee/Getty)

Population: 1,110听

Why I Love It

Highlands, which is one of the highest incorporated towns east of the Mississippi (elevation: 4,118 feet), has been a mountain escape since the late 1800s, originally attracting wealthy travelers who flocked to the village for its clean air and pristine surroundings.

People today show up for the same reasons, and Highlands has grown into a cultural hub of the mountains, with a surprisingly robust art and culinary scene given its small footprint. Main Street is bustling with shops, galleries and restaurants, while the surrounding Nantahala National Forest offers fast access to hiking trails, mountain lakes, and waterfalls.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料s

Hiking Whiteside Mountain, a 4,903-foot peak named after the sheer, granite face that rises to its summit, is the must-do adventure close to town. The two-mile forms a loop that delivers you to the edge of this 700-foot cliff, one of the tallest in the eastern U.S.

You can actually drive your car behind Bridal Veil Falls, just outside of town, but for a more adventurous waterfall, head to Bust Your Butt Falls, a swimming hole just off Highway 64 on the Cullasaja River with a jumping rock and natural water slide at the base of the falls.

Where to Eat

You can鈥檛 turn around without stumbling into another fancy (and pricey) restaurant in Highlands, but I like for its to-go sandwiches and snacks that hit the spot on big hikes.

Where to Stay

Highlands has no shortage of high-end hotels and resorts, but I like the new , a 14-room motel that was recently renovated into a boutique stay where each room has its own typewriter and turntable with record collection (from $189 per night).

Kanab, Utah

man hiking along navajo trail in bryce canyon national park
Bryce Canyon National Park, near Kanab, Utah, famously has the most hoodoos in the world, with 12 amphitheaters featuring these bizarre rock formations (Photo: Ed Freeman/Getty)

Population: 5,200听

Why I Love It

You can鈥檛 beat Kanab鈥檚 location. Tucked into the desert of southern Utah, just north of the Arizona border, Kanab sits within striking distance of some of the Southwest鈥檚 most iconic landscapes. Bryce Canyon National Park is an hour north, Zion National Park is 45 minutes west. If you鈥檙e looking to take a dip, Lake Powell is an hour east, and drive two hours south and you鈥檒l hit the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

The town itself is steeped in Hollywood history, as more than 200 Westerns were filmed in the canyons around town. Kanab itself has a bit of a Moab vibe (think adobe buildings and streets sprawling through the desert floor) but it鈥檚 far sleepier than its gateway cousin, and in my opinion, has a much better culinary scene.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料s

So many parks, so little time. For something unique, head to where you can sand-board the 75-foot tall dunes, made of grains of quartz coated with iron oxide, giving them a pink hew. You can rent sand boards or sleds from the at the park ($25 per board).

Hike Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch, considered the longest slot canyon in America. The is the fastest way into the gorge, a 3.4-mile round trip that delivers you to the canyon. From there, you can explore up or down the canyon to your heart鈥檚 content. The gulch is in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. You鈥檒l need a for the day hike.

Buckskin Gulch is more than 12 miles long, and 200 feet deep at its low point. The walls are never wider than 20 feet during its entire length.

Where to Eat

Kanab is a legitimate foodie destination with a handful of restaurants that punch above the weight of a town this size. If you鈥檙e looking for a memorable dinner, head to , where the menu revolves around a series of small plates, from foraged local mushrooms to chili-rubbed beef sourced just across the border in Arizona.

Where to Stay

There are plenty of hotels around town, but spend the night at , a glamping resort with geodesic domes that have king beds, their own kitchenette, and massive windows overlooking the red rock cliffs (from $170 per night).

Patagonia, Arizona

Motorcycles frame the historic downtown core of Patagonia, Arizona
Motorcycles frame the historic downtown core of Patagonia, Arizona. Pop into Patagonia Lumber Company for a cup of Joe in the morning before you start your day’s adventure.听(Photo: Matt Gush/Getty)

Population: 789

Why I Love It

Start in Tucson, then head an hour south (almost to the Mexican border) and you鈥檒l find tiny Patagonia, a former mining town that鈥檚 just starting to transition into a bonafide adventure town. This one-street village is surrounded by 10,000-foot peaks, and sits within striking distance of two state parks鈥擯atagonia Lake and Sonoita Creek. But the real draw here is the myriad of gravel roads that extend from main street into the surrounding hills, traversing an endless sea of desert grassland.

You鈥檒l hear both Spanish and English spoken throughout town, which also sports the tell-tale signs of a modern mountain outpost (like at the coffee bar with weekend food trucks), but is still hanging onto its blue-collar roots (and rooms are still relatively cheap).

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料s

The 800-mile long Arizona National Scenic Trail, which runs the length of the state, can be found just outside of town. Head south for a meandering hike through rolling grasslands, or north and you鈥檒l tackle the Santa Rita Mountains, where steep climbs and granite peaks await.

But you鈥檙e probably here for the gravel riding, too. The options are endless, and the terrain is rolling instead of grueling, so plan for big-mile days. Start with the 30-mile Alto Ghost Town ride, which climbs through a series of canyons on its way to the ruins of a former mining camp. The undulating grasslands turn gold in the fall but form mesmerizing, shimmering waves regardless of when you ride through them. has rentals (from $125 per day).

Where to Eat

The has build-your-own pizzas, margaritas, and classy oil portraits of The King, while brews coffee in the morning, beer in the afternoon, and hosts rotating food trucks on weekends.

Where to Stay

Grab a spot in the nine-room hotel, which sits on main street within walking distance of everything, and has dedicated bike storage (from $125 per night).

Mazama, Washington

A kayaker plays in a hole on the Methow River, near Mazama, Washington and North Cascade National Park
A kayaker plays in a hole on the Methow River, near Mazama, Washington and North Cascade National Park. (Photo: Michael Hanson/Getty)

Population 200听

Why I Love It

There鈥檚 small, and then there鈥檚 Mazama, a hamlet in central Washington鈥檚 Methow Valley that has less than 200 year-round residents and a 鈥渄owntown鈥 that鈥檚 nothing more than a handful of businesses situated around a junction where two roads meet. But Mazama has everything you need鈥攆ood, beer, supplies, and a place to sleep.

More importantly, the town is surrounded by the , the largest network of nordic ski trails in the country (120 miles), all of which were created and maintained by a non-profit, also called . During the summer, there鈥檚 whitewater rafting on the Methow River, and trad and sport climbing on the Goat Wall, a 1,500-foot tall cliff overlooking the valley. Need more? Mazama is a gateway to North Cascades National Park, which has more glaciers than any park in the lower 48, and also happens to be one of the least visited parks in the country, with under 17,000 visitors last year.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料s

State Road 20, a.k.a. North Cascades Highway, closes from Mazama into the park during the winter, but come summer, the two-lane offers a beautiful 90-minute drive west over Washington Pass. The of the park offers the easiest access to Mazama. There, you鈥檒l find three reservoirs of differing shades of milky blue. Grab a canoe ($75 a day) from and explore the lake, which is surrounded by steep, green mountains. Or hike the 3.5-mile to a prominent point overlooking Diablo Lake.

If you make the trek during winter, cross country skiing is the ticket. There are 120 miles of nordic trails throughout the valley, all of which are groomed nightly. Crazy right? Mazama has its own trailhead, where you can kick and glide along the 11-mile , which has minimal gain but big-valley views.

Where to Eat

There aren鈥檛 a lot of options, but the has to-go sandwiches and snacks and is the best example of what a modern general store can be. The has a taproom and patio with views of Goat Peak, not to mention craft beer, rice bowls, and even sushi.

Where to Stay

The has lodge rooms within walking distance of the Public House (from $182 per night).

Fayetteville, West Virginia

A climber works on solving the cruxy roof of Great White Shark (5.12c) at Bubba City in the New River Gorge near Fayetteville, West Virginia
A climber works on solving the cruxy roof of Great White Shark (5.12c) at Bubba City in the New River Gorge near Fayetteville, West Virginia. (Photo: Harrison Shull/Getty)

Population 2,900听

Why I Love It

In the 1800s, the New River Gorge area attracted lumberjacks and coal miners, as the river canyon was rich in both resources. Now, it attracts hikers, boaters, and climbers, and the New River Gorge has become one of America鈥檚 newest national parks.

The small town of Fayetteville has stood witness to it all, evolving into a world-class gateway community with a historic downtown square, and just enough in the way of restaurants and shops to keep visitors and locals satiated. Fayetteville still retains that sleepy, small town vibe, but just beyond the city鈥檚 borders lies some of the best outdoor recreation in the East, starting with the whitewater rafting and world-class climbing inside the New River Gorge. There鈥檚 also mellow paddling on Summersville Lake, mountain biking on the Arrowhead Trails, a hand-carved system built by Boy Scouts, and more whitewater action on the nearby Gauley River.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料s

Most people show up to raft the , which runs for 53 miles through the heart of the 1,000-foot deep canyon. The river is typically broken down into two day-long runs. The Upper New is more family friendly, with 13 miles of class I-III rapids, while the Lower New has big hits that reach class IV plus.

The whitewater is exciting, but the climbing is actually better, with more than 1,500 established routes along the sandstone walls that loom over the river below. And that doesn鈥檛 even include the growing number of bouldering problems found in the gorge. The climbing isn鈥檛 easy (grades top out at ) but will put you on the right route if you鈥檙e looking for a guide (starting at $130 per person).

Where to Eat

Fayetteville鈥檚 downtown square sports a handful of restaurants. Operating out of a former church just off the square, has been the town鈥檚 go-to for breakfast and lunch for decades. If you ride a couple of hot laps on the flowy , make sure to stop by the for a cold beer and a brat (or taco) served al-fresco in their beer garden.

Where to Stay

The New River Gorge supports several adventure outposts, where you can find cheap campsites or luxury cabins. I like , which has options spread across a 350-acre campus with its own restaurants, a pool, and a stunning view of the gorge itself (covered platform tent sites start at $49 per night).

McCall, Idaho

The sparkling lights of the small adventure town of McCall, Idaho, reflect across the calm waters of Payette Lake at sunset
The sparkling lights of the small adventure town of McCall, Idaho, reflect across the calm waters of Payette Lake at sunset. (Photo: Anna Gorin/Getty)

Population: 4,066听

Why I Love It

The obvious draw to McCall is the skiing. The small town sits in the Cuddy and Salmon River Mountains of Idaho, collecting 300 inches of snow a year, with quick access to three ski resorts, Tamarack Resort, Brundage Mountain, and the aptly named Little Ski Hill, which has night skiing and just a T-bar for a lift.

But then you also have Payette Lake, a 5,000-acre beauty surrounded by green peaks and full of trout that have been beckoning anglers since the 1800s. Not to mention, whitewater rafting on the Middle Fork and Main Fork of the Salmon, and a growing portfolio of mountain bike trails, as well as ample hiking trails in Payette National Forest and Ponderosa State Park. Begin stacking all of these attributes up and it becomes obvious that the draw to McCall is鈥everything.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料s

Many will argue that has the best powder in Idaho, so skiers should head there during a winter visit. The mountain has almost 2,000 acres of front-side terrain to explore, but it鈥檚 the 18,000 acres of backcountry that you can access via the resort鈥檚 that are the real gem here (starting at $575).

Bring your bike in the summer as McCall is rapidly becoming a , earning a Silver Ride Center designation from IMBA, with a diverse suite of trails that鈥檚 rapidly approaching 500 miles large. Head straight for , a golf course resort that鈥檚 gone all-in on mountain biking with 17 miles of fast, flowy descents, some of which are packed with wooden features, all accessed via easy-to-climb fire roads or shuttle ($30 per rider).

Where to Eat

McCall is a bustling adventure town with plenty of options for a good meal, but has award-winning lagers to go along with their fried wild salmon and chips.

Where to Stay

takes modern Scandinavian-inspired design and puts it into a 1970s-era motel built with local timber. And the rooms walk out onto an expansive lawn with games and fire pits (from $131 per night).

Bigfork, Montana

Two paddleboarders peruse Woods Bay, in Bigfork, Montana, on a sunny, summer day
Two paddleboarders peruse Woods Bay, in Bigfork, Montana, on a sunny, summer day. (Photo: constantgardener/Getty)

Population: 5,249听

Why I Love It

At first glance, Bigfork is a lake town, sitting on the edge of the massive Flathead Lake, which has 200 square miles of water and 185 miles of shoreline. And it has plenty of kayaking and fishing for those that are water inclined. But it鈥檚 also a hiking town, with quick access to the Bob Marshall Wilderness, the Flathead National Forest, and numerous state parks.

Want a little adrenaline? Bigfork is also the basecamp for whitewater adventures on the Middle Fork and North Fork of the Flathead River. Oh, and Bigfork is just an hour from the West Glacier entrance to Glacier National Park. So is Bigfork a lake town? Yes, but it鈥檚 also so much more.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料s

Head to the of Flathead National Forest, a 15,000-acre tract within the Bob Marshall Wilderness featuring more than 20 alpine lakes. Hike a 6.6-mile loop combining the (#717) and the Picnic Lakes Trail to the rocky summit of the 7,000-foot Mount Aeneas, where you鈥檒l find views of the Jewel Basin lakes below, and the ridges of Glacier National Park on the horizon. You鈥檒l occasionally find mountain goats on the summit too. Bring a flyrod and try to land one of the cutthroat or rainbow trout that thrive in the Picnic Lakes on the back end of the loop.

Flathead Lake has six state parks that protect its shoreline and the islands in the middle of the water. Paddle two miles across the lake from the boat launch in Dayton, Montana, to , a 2,165-acre state park in the middle of the lake that鈥檚 only accessible by boat. Instead of cars, you鈥檒l see feral horses and bighorn sheep. has kayak and paddleboard rentals (starting at $40).

Where to Eat

has views of the lake, 16 beers on tap, and a large pub-food menu that includes a burger topped with jalape帽o poppers. So, yeah. Yum.

Where to Stay

is an all-inclusive dude ranch on 2,000 acres running along the shores of Flathead Lake. You鈥檒l get access to the property鈥檚 15-mile private mountain bike trail system, canoes, hikes, and horseback rides to backcountry breakfast (starting at $5,103 a week). If you鈥檙e looking for less of a financial commitment, has cabins and Airstreams, all of which come with private access to the lake (from $210 per night).

The author wearing a blue flannel and a ball cap, with the green Appalachians in the background
The author, Graham Averill, at home in his corner of southern Appalachia (Photo: Courtesy of Graham Averill)

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national parks columnist. He鈥檚 been lucky enough to live in a few of America鈥檚 most fun (and expensive) adventure towns, and recently wrote about the country鈥檚 best mountain towns. He also recently wrote about the best national parks for spring break trips.听

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The Best Surf Schools in North America /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-surf-schools/ Tue, 15 Apr 2025 09:00:37 +0000 /?p=2700581 The Best Surf Schools in North America

Whether it鈥檚 your first time paddling out or you鈥檙e looking to fine-tune your bottom turn, surf lessons can take your skills to the next level.

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The Best Surf Schools in North America

Surfing has an undeniable allure. The ancient Polynesian practice combines both power and grace and forges an intimate connection between a surfer and the ocean. The pros, like John John Florence and , make wave riding look effortless. But even experienced surfers are regularly humbled by the ocean. First-timers often get pummeled just trying to paddle out.

I still recall my first surf experience as a kid on the Jersey Shore. I had borrowed a friend鈥檚 shortboard and couldn鈥檛 make it past the relentlessly pounding breakers. Exhausted from being clobbered by the incoming waves, I gave up and tried to ride the whitewater. I ended up with a bathing suit full of sand and water leaking from my nose for what seemed like days.

Drone photo of surfers
Surf Simply, an all-inclusive surf coaching resort in Nosara, Costa Rica, is widely considered the top dog of surf schools. (Photo: Courtesy of Surf Simply)

After a few more failed solo sessions, I booked a lesson and my frustration instantly turned into enjoyment thanks to some basic pointers. Even one hour under the tutelage of an instructor can be a gamechanger, especially if you鈥檙e a total novice. Intel such as where to paddle out at a break, how to read the incoming sets, and knowing which size board is right for you, can transform your surf experience. Most newbies consider standing up on the board a success. But here鈥檚 a little secret. Learning to read the ocean and being able to paddle into a wave on your own, without a push from an instructor, is the real beginner鈥檚 success.

Now in my 40s, I consider myself an intermediate surfer. But I still try to take a lesson at least once a year, particularly when I travel to a new destination. Surfing is a lifelong practice, and the ocean is an ever-changing arena. You can always be learning and improving. And you鈥檙e never too old to hop on a board. One surf instructor I know says he regularly teaches students in their 60s and 70s.

Whether it鈥檚 your first time paddling out or you鈥檙e looking to fine-tune your bottom turn, the following surf schools can help get you up and riding and take your skills to the next level.

Hammer Surf School, Jersey Shore

Big wave New Jersey surf
If you can surf in Jersey, you can surf just about anywhere. (Photo: Courtesy of Hammer Surf School)

Pro surfer Sam Hammer has chased waves around the world from the tropical beaches of Costa Rica to the frozen shores of Iceland to star in Chris Burkhard鈥檚 hit film, Under An Arctic Sky. But he hasn鈥檛 forgotten his Jersey Shore roots. His namesake surf school hosts private 75-minute lessons throughout the summer in several Shore towns, including his hometown of Lavallette. And most locales, like Spring Lake and Bay Head, can be accessed by train from New York City via New Jersey Transit. Hammer personally teaches the Sunday sessions in Spring Lake and you can book him for private coaching. I grew up on the Jersey Shore and know first-hand that if you can surf in Jersey, you can surf just about anywhere. The waves tend to be weak, yet steep, so they鈥檙e harder to paddle into, and, once you鈥檙e in, tougher to navigate. Summer conditions tend to be more mellow, but still, if you earn your surfing chops on the Shore, you鈥檒l feel like a pro on the slow, peeling waves in other destinations.

Beginner Tip: “Don’t overthink your movements on a surfboard,鈥 says Hammer. 鈥淟ike with any sport, you learn mechanics slowly and will instinctually move faster through repetition.”

Details: $99 for a 2.5-hour adult group surf class; $113 for a 75-minute, one-on-one private lesson;

Mario Surf School, Todos Santos, Mexico

Beginner surfer on a mushy wave
Mario Surf School, in Todos Los Santos, makes surfing accessible and mellow. (Photo: Courtesy of Mario Surf School)

Over the years, Los Cerritos beach has been discovered, but even with the crowds, it remains one of my favorite surf spots. Located just 10 minutes south of the hip town of Todos Santos and 45 minutes north of Cabo San Lucas, it鈥檚 incredibly accessible to reach and its mellow, smooth waves and a sandy bottom make it a friendly place for beginners. But those aren鈥檛 the only reasons Mario Becerril, a Baja native and former pro, chose to base his surf school there nearly 20 years ago. 鈥淚t鈥檚 also one of the few beaches in Mexico that has gradual wave zones suitable for all levels,鈥 he explains. This helps ease the congestion and is great for progression. Becerril鈥檚 school is known for its three-step, beginner-focused pop-up technique and also for offering more advanced learning options, such as multi-day clinics, and its surf excursions, which showcase the region鈥檚 best waves, like premier point break Punta Conejo.

Beginner Tip: 鈥淒on鈥檛 be afraid to surf on a bigger board when you are learning and work your way down to smaller boards progressively,鈥 says Becerril, 鈥渁nd remember the best surfer out there is the one that has the most fun.鈥

Details: $67 for a 60-minute group lesson; $80 for a 60-minute private lesson; $180 for a three-day clinic; $350 for a private eight-hour surf excursion

Mary Osborne Surf Academy, Ventura, California

Women walking on beach to go surf
Ventura-based Mary Osborne Surf Academy offers lessons year-round. (Photo: Courtesy of Mary Osborne Surf Academy)

Champion longboarder Mary Osborne has over 25 years of teaching experience and excels at tailoring lessons to match her clients鈥 goals. Her Ventura-based camp offers lessons year-round, but she suggests clients book between late August through December to score magical weather and epic right-hand point breaks. The area has a variety of surf breaks, making it ideal for progression. She starts beginners at Mondos Beach. 鈥淚 call it the Waikiki of California, because it is very easy, slow, safe, and great for learning,鈥 she says. And she coaches experienced riders how to cross step toes to nose on a longboard. Most adults book her 90-minute private lessons, however she also offers two-hour group adult classes on Saturdays, lessons with apr猫s surf brunch, music, yoga, and massages, and she can customize beachfront rental homes, dining reservations, and activities for visiting clients who book multi-day lessons.

Beginner Tip: 鈥淎 lot of times people will want to book a lesson everyday for a week, which sounds incredible,鈥 says Osborne. 鈥淗owever, the reality is the body gets tired and you may need a break every other day.鈥

Details: 90-minute private lesson from $150;

Pro Surf School Hawaii, Waikiki, Oahu

Because of its gentle, forgiving waves, Waikiki is one of the best spots to learn to surf. (Photo: Courtesy of Pro Surf School Hawaii)

In my opinion, Waikiki is one of the best spots to learn to surf. Legendary two-mile Honolulu beach has gentle, forgiving waves, plus it鈥檚 the birthplace of modern surfing, which makes it all the more special. Kai Sallas, the reigning International Surf Association longboard champion, was born and raised in Waikiki and operates his surf school from the stylish on the quieter, eastern edge of the bustling neighborhood. You don鈥檛 need to be a hotel guest to book a lesson (though if you鈥檙e visiting from out of town, it鈥檚 a relatively affordable, super convenient base, with the best brunch in town). Sallas and his team cater to both beginner and intermediate riders, educating on everything from surf etiquette and wave knowledge to performing more advanced maneuvers like cutbacks and snaps. He鈥檚 also a shaper and can suggest the perfect board for your riding abilities.

Beginner Tip: 鈥淎lways keep your eyes on the ocean,鈥 says Sallas. 鈥淪tudy it before you go out. Watch it as you paddle out and sit in the lineup. And keep examining the wave as you鈥檙e paddling into it.鈥

Details: From $99 for a two-hour beginner group lesson, $199 for a private one-on-one; .

Skudin Surf, Long Beach and Rockaway Beach, New York

Beginner surfer foam board
Take the subway to Skudin Surf, at Long Beach and Rockaway Beach, in New York. (Photo: Courtesy of Skudin Surf)

Over the last two decades, brothers Will and Cliff Skudin have helped put New York surfing on the map with their global big wave pursuits and their community-driven, namesake surf school. Throughout summer, they offer adult lessons at surf spots in Long Beach and Rockaway Beach. Both can be reached from New York City by train (the former via the Metropolitan Transit Authority and the latter on the subway). Summer is typically the best time for beginners, because the ocean is a bit warmer and the waves are more manageable. Dealing with Mother Nature鈥檚 whims is part of surfing, but riders who want to finesse their pop ups in a more controlled environment can book lessons year-round at America鈥檚 largest indoor wave pool in East Rutherford, New Jersey, a 10-minute drive from Manhattan. The brothers also run a nonprofit, , which helps make surfing accessible to the economically disadvantaged and people with disabilities.

Beginner Tip: 鈥淎lways check the conditions before you go out to surf, so you鈥檙e set up for success,鈥 says Will Skudin. 鈥淭here鈥檚 nothing worse than gathering all your gear, being stoked to get out there, and showing up to flat or dangerous conditions.鈥

Details: $125 for a 75-minute private lesson at Long Beach or Rockaway Beach; $99 for an hour-long wave pool session;

Surf Happens, Santa Barbara, California

Beginner surfing wave
Surf Happens鈥 methodology builds on the fundamentals. (Photo: Courtesy of Surf Happens)

Surf Happens has helped groom pros like Lakey Peterson and brothers Parker and Conner Coffin. The school鈥檚 successful teaching formula鈥攔efined over 25 years鈥攊s rooted in founder Chris Keet鈥檚 experience as a competitive surfer and lifelong waterman.

鈥淲hat sets our curriculum apart is its focus on levels of evolution, principles, and techniques that build upon one another. It resembles a martial art in its progression,鈥 he says. 鈥淩egardless of skill level or ability, from beginning to elite, there are cheat codes to get to the next level within the phases we teach.鈥

Surf Happens鈥 methodology builds on fundamentals, like evaluating the ocean conditions for hazards, finding line-up markers, reading the winds, waves, tides, and currents, and understanding techniques like paddling and duck diving. The school鈥檚 home beach is Santa Claus Lane, which offers a sand bottom break with idyllic learning waves year round. But Keet and his team take students to various point, reef, and beach breaks in the area, from Campus and Leadbetter Point, to other secret spots. Adults have their choice of private or group lessons, coaching series, surfaris, and week-long custom packages that explore the best waves for your ability.

Beginner Tip: 鈥淭reat surfing like a life skill and be patient, humble, and hungry to learn,鈥 says Keet. 鈥淟earn how the ocean works, be respectful of her power, and the people who you share it with, know your limits and never give up.鈥

Details: 90-minute private lesson from $150; three-day coaching series from $750; half-day surf safari from $250; week-long surf experience from $1,250;

Surf Simply, Nosara, Costa Rica

Cut back wave long board
Surf Simply has earned a cult following for its unique, analytical style. (Photo: Courtesy of Surf Simply)

This week-long, all-inclusive surf coaching resort in Nosara is widely considered the top dog of surf schools and typically books up six to 12 months in advance, so plan ahead. The sleek, 10-room lodge is just 200 meters from Playa Guiones, a long, wide beach that delivers over 350 surfable days each year, with wave conditions for all abilities. Surf Simply鈥檚 earned a cult following for its unique, analytical style, which provides students a road map of skills and drills. 鈥淲e don鈥檛 teach you how to surf, we teach you how to teach yourself how to surf, or surf better through a combination of video feedback, theory lessons, and in-water coaching,鈥 says Robin Bass, the school鈥檚 logistics manager. This holistic approach includes classroom sessions on swell forecasting and board design, fine-tuning board agility and turtle rolling in the pool, plus mobility work and post-surf massages. Surf Simply鈥檚 team of nine coaches work with just 12 guests per week, ensuring personalized attention. And every guest is sent home with photos of their sessions and a video from the week.

Beginner Tip: 鈥淐ontrary to what a lot of people believe, I don鈥檛 think you need great balance to surf,鈥 says owner Harry Knight. 鈥淲hat you do need to be able to do is to relax your body in this unusual situation, so that your core stability muscles can do their job. The more you rush, the more tense you are likely to be and the harder it will be to find and keep your balance. Good surfing should be slow and smooth, not fast and jerky.鈥

Details: $8,716 solo and $15,646 per couple for one-week, all-inclusive;

Surf Sister, Tofino, Canada

Walking through surf in Tofino
Tofino is the surf capital of Canada. (Photo: Courtesy of Surf Sister)

With more than 20 miles of rugged shoreline, the tiny coastal town of Tofino on Vancouver Island is considered Canada鈥檚 surf capital. The area鈥檚 wild backdrop of snow-capped peaks and old-growth forest are well worth donning a wetsuit to brave the brisk waters (you鈥檒l want a 4/3mm in summer and at least a 5/4mm, plus a hood and booties in winter). Surf Sisters set up shop here in the late 1990s with the mission to introduce more women to the sport. Mission accomplished. They now aim to make the sport accessible to all genders, races, and ages (their oldest client to date was 76).

Beginner lessons start with a briefing on ocean safety and surf etiquette, before moving into waist deep water where students can familiarize themselves with their longboards. A second lesson goes out past the breakers and gets into how to choose and catch a wave and how to begin to maneuver and turn once you鈥檙e up and riding. 鈥淥ur goal is to create a good foundation of knowledge so students can continue practicing and learning on their own,鈥 says Surf Sister staff member, Alyssa Teremy. Experienced riders looking to uplevel their skills can book private coaching with Shannon Brown, the head coach of the Canadian National Surfing Team, who can help with everything from surf psychology to improving stance and style. Conditions determine where you鈥檒l surf, but Surf Sisters typically teaches at South and North Chesterman and Cox Bay. The school also operates a surf shack at on Cox Bay, which caters exclusively to guests.

Beginner Tip: 鈥淭ake your time,鈥 says Teremy. 鈥淕etting into your wetsuit is hard enough when you first begin, so pace yourself with all things surfing and your entire surfing career will be all the better for it.鈥

Details: 2.5-hour group lesson $99; private $199; $350 for a half-day of private coaching;

South Beach Surf School, Newport, Oregon

Big slash turn wave Newport
South Beach Surf School helps you hone in on essential techniques. (Photo: Courtesy of South Beach Surf)

After running a surf school in Virginia Beach, Russell McClanan, a former competitive surfer and captain of the USA surf team, relocated to the Oregon Coast and was wowed by the lack of crowds and consistency of the surf. 鈥淚 got tired of teaching in flat conditions,鈥 he says. 鈥淚n Newport, there鈥檚 knee- to waist-high waves nearly every day of summer. The air is 65 to 70 and the water hovers in the mid 50s. A five millimeter wetsuit keeps everyone warm.鈥 His one-on-one lessons are geared to serious wannabe surfers who care more about learning to read the currents and understanding etiquette than popping up on day one. 鈥淓ach surf break is like a different football team that wants to beat you up,鈥 he says. 鈥淵ou need to study it and do your research and have a strategy before you paddle out.鈥 Every session starts with 20 minutes of balance exercises and some stretches before entering the water. Once out past the breakers, he hones in on essential techniques, like how to use your legs to spin your board while sitting on it in the lineup. He also offers big wave training and tow-in lessons for seasoned riders looking to up their game.

Beginner Tip: 鈥淧ractice the surf burpee on land so you get used to the mechanics of jumping to your feet,鈥 says McClanan. 鈥淵ou might be able to surf the whitewash crawling to your knees, but you can鈥檛 ride a real wave if you can鈥檛 get to your feet.鈥

Pricing: $160 for a two-hour private lesson; $300 for two hours with video analysis;


Jen Murphy is a regular 国产吃瓜黑料 contributor and considers herself a lifelong student of the ocean. She tries to take a surf lesson at least once a year and regularly hires a coach or guide when visiting a new destination. She鈥檚 surfed around the world, from the remote shores of Easter Island to the rugged coast of Scotland.

Author Jen Murphy on the beach
For the author, surfing is a lifelong practice.听 (Photo: Courtesy of Jen Murphy)

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Yes, This Magical Icelandic 国产吃瓜黑料 Lodge Is Real鈥攁nd Wonderful /adventure-travel/destinations/europe/deplar-farm-iceland/ Fri, 11 Apr 2025 09:00:42 +0000 /?p=2700092 Yes, This Magical Icelandic 国产吃瓜黑料 Lodge Is Real鈥攁nd Wonderful

Iceland's Deplar Farm is an extreme adventure outpost and luxury boutique resort ready to swaddle you in comfort.

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Yes, This Magical Icelandic 国产吃瓜黑料 Lodge Is Real鈥攁nd Wonderful

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

Standing on the black-sand shore at the edge of Iceland鈥檚 Troll Peninsula, Jay Sweet tapped the top of his head twice and laughed when I stood up and returned the gesture, signaling I was fine after being walloped by a little wave I鈥檇 attempted to surf in the Arctic Ocean. Actually, I was much more than fine鈥攆or the second day in a row, in February, I was surfing (or, you know, trying) a dozen miles beneath the Arctic Circle. I was ecstatic.

Surfing iceland arctic circle
At Deplar Farm, in Iceland, you can go surfing a few dozen miles from the Arctic Circle. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Back in the States, Sweet is the executive director of the , the vaunted American institution where, yes, Dylan went electric six decades ago but has also long worked to expand the definition of what American folk can entail. But on the north shore of Iceland a few weeks per year, Sweet is also a de facto surfing instructor for , a 15th-century sheep farm that鈥檚 been converted into a boutique luxury resort and extreme adventure outpost 15 miles inland from where we sought our break.

Peeling waves.
Yes, the suring is legit. Cold, but legit. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Shuffling out of the water, with my entire body blanketed in borrowed neoprene, I could see , the Arctic recording outpost owned by Deplar鈥檚 parent company and the space I鈥檇 come to tour. (Sweet is a consultant there.) It is an isolated artist retreat where musicians look to go inward. My wife, Tina, and I clambered into a Toyota truck with Sweet, heat cranked and our boards hanging out of the back. We headed to the studio to prepare for the next journey. We had, after all, come to Iceland to go outward.

Studio location & equipment images shot for FLOKI Studio in Northern Iceland owned by Eleven (Deplar) Experience. This shoot was facilitated through Burkard Studio & contracted out to Joel & Vidir
Want to record your EP in between surf sessions? This is the place. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Indeed, during the 48 hours since our party of six had arrived, our lives had become a toggle between indoor comfort and outdoor escapades. As soon as we鈥檇 stopped surfing the day before, we鈥檇 retreated to a massive hearth in the recording studio鈥檚 lounge with warm bowls of soup. We鈥檇 then toured the valley on small but sturdy Icelandic horses renowned for their idiosyncratic and smooth gait know as the .

When that was over, we returned to the Farm itself, an unassuming black house with a living roof planted with tundra grass that unfolds in several levels and wings of luxury that are almost impossible to see from the road. I showered in my room, which instantly felt like home and headed for an enormous geothermal pool, slipping like a harbor seal beneath a glass wall to the heated outdoor half. I cycled between the pool, a sauna, and a hot tub for hours鈥攐r until it was time for dinner鈥攁 three-course meal of elegant updates to classic Icelandic fare like cod, lamb, and Icelandic Happy Marriage cake, all at a communal dining table that seated two-dozen. During those two hours, strangers from several countries became friends, the mood collectively enhanced by the realization that we were in a corner of wintry heaven, here at the end of the earth. As everyone drifted to the bar or their bedrooms, I stepped on our little porch and looked up, waiting for the Northern Lights to dance.

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel听

When that second day of surfing was done, we had an appointment to keep鈥攁 group sauna session in a round house built into the side of the hill, the roof covered with towering grasses. Inside, a tattooed sauna keeper with muscles that looked like bundles of paracord talked us through the history of the Icelandic sauna, then snapped a towel in front of each of our faces to direct the heat toward us like a fireplace bellows. One by one, she marched us outside to a cold plunge pool dug into the hillside, with a spotlight aiming up from the bottom. She timed us before returning us to the sauna, repeating the process until we all relented.

Pool in Iceland
At Deplar Farm, life becomes a toggle between indoor comfort and outdoor escapades. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

That was supposed to be the end of our adventures, after the horses and the surfs and the hikes, and after we鈥檇 turned down chances to take fat bikes onto frozen lakes and go ice fishing. But ever since we鈥檇 arrived, Tina and I had eyed the tall ridges that surrounded Deplar Farm and talked (furtively, at first) of climbing one. When we finally broached the subject with S贸lr煤n鈥攖he knowledgeable and funny guide for our group, who insists you call her Maria if her real name is too difficult鈥攕he enthusiastically agreed we should give it a go. And since we鈥檇 be leaving in less than 16 hours, we knew this was our last chance. So we met her in Deplar鈥檚 gear barn, a cathedral of skis and poles and paddles and clothes and crampons. She would be watching us by GPS, she said, but we were free to go on our own with the help of the ice axes and spikes she鈥檇 supplied.

waterfall Iceland
Between skiing, fishing, horseback riding, biking, music-making, hiking, climbing, helicoptering, and exploring, you will hopefully never get bored at Deplar Farm. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

We ascended the steep face 2,000 feet until we realized we鈥檇 soon lose the battle with daylight, especially since the farm below had already disappeared behind a whiteout. We picked our way back down the slick faces, glissading the last few hundred feet on the banks of a frozen river. We returned to Deplar, covered in a little mud and bleeding from at least one knee and feeling totally victorious. It was my favorite moment at the Farm, the sensation that comes with the satisfaction of doing something about which the other guests weren鈥檛 so sure.

That flexibility and scope are key at Deplar. They will take you heli-skiing (for the price of the fuel) in aggressive terrain, or they will lead you on cross-country meanders. They will cut you loose to test your own skills on unknown slopes and trust that you will be back by dinner, or they will join you on a slow horseback trot along unpaved roads. Each morning, your guide presents some options and then lets you plot the course of your adventure, however heavy or light you hope to make it.

Eat and Drink

Deplar Farm’s culinary approach takes the standard fare of Iceland, sourcing as locally as possible, and then applying techniques imported from classic French cuisine. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

鈥淒id you see those lights up the road, on the top of the hill?鈥 the chef asked the table during our first night at Deplar Farm. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 where the lamb comes from.鈥 He was talking about the lamb shank that stood on each plate like an obelisk, surrounded by a sea of blood-red beet puree, perfectly tender potatoes, and succulent mushrooms. It was the night鈥檚 main course and emblematic of the place鈥檚 culinary approach鈥攖ake the standard fare of Iceland, source it as locally as possible, and then apply techniques imported from classic French cuisine. Dinner, then, was always full of surprises, where ingredients you came to anticipate, like cod, were recast in unexpected roles, as when the fish was diced so that it looked more like rice. Eating was a protracted and social process, too, each of the three courses patiently revealed and explained by the chef and sommelier.

Pancake with blueberries
Don’t worry, if you drink a few too many Kaldi’s, a plate of Icelandic pancakes will await you in the morning. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

But the true standouts were simpler. There was the ever-present table butter, so soft it seemed to spread itself over sourdough. There was the breakfast, dominated by crepe-like Icelandic pancakes and massive bowls of Skyr, Iceland鈥檚 wonderfully acidic and protein-loaded yogurt, piled generously with granola and fruit. And there were the blessed snacks, from the in-room refrigerator replenished each morning to standing spreads of nuts, trail mixes, and dried fruits, ready to be bagged before you headed out the door.

Deplar bar
The drinks at Deplar鈥攚hether NA or otherwise鈥攁re as generous as everything else. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

I should say that I stopped drinking years ago. But the drinks were so generous for everyone鈥攁nd the non-alcoholic options so plentiful for everyone else鈥攖hat I found myself playing bass during an impromptu karaoke jam with three women older than my mother on the final night as my successful, professional friends played beer pong nearby. When I woke up the next morning, the bar resembled the remains of a college party, and Wilco鈥檚 Sky Blue Sky was still playing. There were, suffice it to say, a lot of Icelandic pancakes at breakfast.

Choice Cabins

Bedroom at Deplar Farm
Each of the 13 rooms at Deplar has a deeply cozy design. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

In my first few days on the Appalachian Trail, I became Gunner, an ignominious trail name bestowed upon me by someone who has somehow become a best friend because I looked like Elmer Fudd. It felt a little like fate, then, when we arrived at our room to see 鈥淕unnar鈥 painted across the white door in a tight, black hand. It was presumably a reference to Gunnar H谩mundarson, a warring Icelandic leader a millennium ago. Each of the 13 rooms at Deplar has its own historic name, and they all share a deeply cozy design, from king beds piled high with sheepskin blankets to a slate shower with water hot enough to toast you after escaping the Icelandic winter. Each room is meant to be personalized, too, from separate sound systems in the bathroom and bedroom you can adjust yourself to a refrigerator that is constantly restocked with house-made hummus, jerky, and drinks.

Northern lights Deplar
At Deplar, you won’t want to miss watching the Northern Lights dance. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

But you鈥檒l want to leave your room for the common spaces, too鈥攁 library with mountain views, a media room with deep couches, multiple gyms, and, my favorite, a hearthside hangout zone equipped with towering hi-fi speakers, a fancy turntable, and an assortment of very good records. (, the company that owns Deplar and a string of properties on several continents, is named for .) Each morning in Iceland, I woke up very early to write a profile about the singer . The record perched by the turntable when I arrived? Panda Bear鈥檚 masterpiece, Person Pitch. It was a coincidence (I think) by studio engineer Wade Koeman, but it wasn鈥檛 the only bit of magic I encountered at Deplar, where the tall troll hill feet from the front door is treated as sacred space.

When to Go

Northern lights at Deplar Farm
It says a lot when the Northern Lights are only part of the appeal. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

As we left Reykjavik, our small Icelandair plane shuddered when it broke through the clouds, pushing through the gray of the day in the capital city. But an hour later, we landed in Akureyri鈥攁 town of 20,000 at the edge of one of Iceland鈥檚 longest fjords鈥攁mid a blue-bird day, the sky so bright and the ground so free of snow you might not have guessed it was winter in Iceland. The two-hour drive to Deplar Farm was all horizon, cliffs tumbling into oceans into infinity. By the next morning, though, our valley was a mix of ocean air and white, a strange snow globe with no visibility. The conditions shifted constantly between these two states.

Ski mountains Deplar Farm
Come for the surf. Stay for the skiing. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

All this to say: Go anytime. Every person I spoke to at Deplar Farm recommended a summer return, when the hiking, biking, and fishing were as endless as the green of the valley. They also suggested being there with more snow, so that the barn of DPS skis and the stable of snowmobiles could take us far and fast.

How To Get There

Deplar was formerly a 15th century sheep farm. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Two airports serve Reykjavik. In all likelihood, you鈥檒l fly into Keflav铆k International, a hub for Icelandair, which has 20 direct stateside destinations. A Deplar emissary will scoop you there, shuttling you either to a quaint guesthouse they keep near the city鈥檚 harbor for the night or straight to the second airport, Reykjavik Domestic. You鈥檒l fly to Akureyri, at the country鈥檚 northern edge, and again be picked up by a Deplar representative, your adventure guide for your stay. Sit on the right side of the van for the best scenery, and don鈥檛 fret too much about the one-lane tunnels that cut beneath mountains. Deplar isn鈥檛 the easiest place to reach, but Akureyri is working to expand its international flights. And the remoteness, after all, is part of the reward.

Don鈥檛 Miss

As an American, it is tempting to look at Iceland as a speck of sparsely populated lava rock between two oceans, smaller than the state of Tennessee, and assume you can see it all quickly. If you鈥檙e spending major money to go stay at a luxe spot where your every wish becomes someone else鈥檚 task, isn鈥檛 that enough? How much can there really be to see? Don鈥檛 make that mistake.

View of water and mountains in Iceland
Deplar Farm might feel like it has everything you could ever need鈥攂ut don’t forget to explore Iceland itself. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

As exceptional as my stay at Deplar Farm was, my time outside of it might have been my favorite part of my first Icelandic visit. After we returned to Reykjavik, Tina and I grabbed some pastries from the incredible bakery and a tiny rented Kia and headed for , where a volcano and glacier lord over a peninsula with a coastline so rugged it makes the crags of Maine look like a small-scale model. We climbed atop and drove into craters, waded into water loaded with seals, and stood on a beach where the tide lurched in and out of smooth lava rocks, creating one of the most psychedelic sound experiences of my life. There were hot springs, commanding columns of basalt, and, at the cheap motel we found halfway back to Reykjavik, the best Northern Lights of our trip. (Many hotels have a sign-up sheet; when the Lights appear, they call you, no matter the hour.) Don鈥檛 let guided adventures, however great, replace a self-guided one, especially in a country with as many uncanny spectacles as Iceland.

Surfing in Iceland
Surf in the Arctic Ocean in February? Sure! (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Details

Price: From $3,970 (winter) or $4,377 (summer), three-night stay required

Address: 570 Fljot, 脫lafsfj枚r冒ur, Iceland

Book Deplar Farm


Why was 国产吃瓜黑料 hiking columnist and Backpacker contributor Grayson Haver Currin touring a music studio in Iceland? Long before he had finished the Triple Crown of Hiking, ever since he was a teenager in North Carolina, he was a music journalist. He continues to write about music for GQ, The New York Times, Pitchfork, and many more.

Grayson Haver Currin

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The 7 Best Stargazing Road Trips in North America /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/stargazing-road-trips/ Thu, 10 Apr 2025 00:06:23 +0000 /?p=2700399 The 7 Best Stargazing Road Trips in North America

Want to see more stars this season? Plan your next trip around one of these dark-sky hot spots.

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The 7 Best Stargazing Road Trips in North America

Of all the road trips I鈥檝e plotted in my travel writing career, the best had this in common: they were scenic, they were unhurried, and they capped each day beneath the cosmos. The following astro-meets-adventure itineraries tick every box.

There鈥檚 no better way to celebrate the start of road trip season鈥攁s well as from April 21 to 28鈥攖han by taking a long, star-focused drive. Some of these itineraries might already be on your list, others may surprise you, and all can be completed in a long weekend. Here are the best stargazing road trips in North America.

Cook County Aurora Route

3+ nights | Northern Minnesota

Cook County is among the northernmost points in the continental U.S. That makes this Lake Superior region arguably the best place in the lower 48 to chase the aurora. Here鈥檚 a 140-mile out-and-back drive through northern Minnesota鈥檚 forested fringes.

  • Lutsen: Start roughly 90 miles north of Duluth for a stint on the 300-mile Superior Hiking Trail by day. Trek by day, then unwind beneath the stars after dusk. Sprinkle in some wellness with a stay at , where each abode has a private sauna with forest-view windows.
  • Grand Marais: Drive 20 minutes north along the lake to reach Grand Marais, a spirited arts community. See the stars in unmitigated splendor on a guided night-vision hike with , a first-of-its-kind outfitter located just outside of Grand Marais. To optimize your aurora odds, book an accommodation within walking distance of ideal lights-hunting perch Artist鈥檚 Point (like ).
  • Gunflint Trail: Sip your last dregs of city life before heading an hour inland on the 57-mile Gunflint Trail. This traverse, thick with maples and birches, is famous for its numerous moose sightings. For remote stargazing, reserve digs like or pitch your tent at a local campground (typically open starting in May). If you have time, set aside another day to explore nearby Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, another DarkSky Sanctuary
Grand Canyon at night
Winter stars over the Grand Canyon (Photo: Stephanie Vermillion)

The Arizona Traverse

3+ nights | Arizona

Inky nightscapes abound in Arizona, where global light pollution authority DarkSky International has certified more than two dozen astronomical getaways. Catch the cosmos on this 340-mile road trip, which weaves northward through the Grand Canyon State鈥檚 space-watching听hotspots. Consider adding a few detours, like Petrified Forest National Park. Your adventure starts in Tucson, and can end in Flagstaff or Las Vegas鈥攂oth major Southwest transit hubs.

  • Tucson: Start your Arizona Traverse on the new , a mini road trip in itself that connects a dozen astronomy attractions in and around the city. Highlights include Kitt Peak National Observatory, home to one of the world鈥檚 largest radio telescopes, and Saguaro National Park, a DarkSky-certified escape where towering cacti pierce a sparkly night sky. Camping is available in six designated Saguaro Wilderness Area campgrounds. (Note: the sites are only accessible by foot.)
  • Sedona: Head roughly three hours north of Tucson for stop number two, Sedona, another DarkSky-certified destination with star-view options galore. Admire the silvery pinpricks from Beaverhead Flat Scenic Overlook or the Aerie trailhead. Or, watch for stars and peculiar flying objects on a guided UFO tour. Reserve accommodations like to enjoy the dark-sky splendor from bed.
  • Grand Canyon National Park: There鈥檚 nothing like sky-watching from the spellbinding Grand Canyon, whether it鈥檚 a ranger-guided astronomy session on the South Rim, or DIY stargazing on the remote North Rim, which is open from mid-May to mid-October. For the ultimate twilight treat, try the lottery for a sleep at Phantom Ranch, the only lodging on the Grand Canyon鈥檚 base.

Baja Coast to Coast

2+ nights | Baja Sur, Mexico

You could make a multi-month adventure out of zigzagging along Baja鈥檚 many natural and night-sky attractions. But for those who don鈥檛 have unlimited PTO, here鈥檚 a bite-sized, 100-mile trip from the Gulf of California to the Pacific coast. You could tackle this road trip in a quick weekend, but I recommend at least four nights to soak up the culture and daytime marvels.

  • Loreto: Start your Baja Sur weekend in Loreto, a seaside town famous for its blue whales, national parks, beach clambakes, and鈥攖hanks to a recent community movement鈥攕targazing. The local astronomy club Cielo Magic hosts for residents and tourists in town. There鈥檚 also a local sky-watching meetup every Friday near the main plaza. Or, take a roughly 30-minute drive out of town to admire the planets and stars in the foothills of the Sierra de la Giganta mountains. Stay at historic and centrally located , which has a rooftop for space-gazing above the main square.
  • Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos: Crisscross the peninsula鈥檚 mountainous interior to reach this tiny coastal town鈥攁 magnet for whale watchers between January and March. But marine life isn鈥檛 the only reason to visit. You can also book twilight sand dune tours and picnics through local outfitters. Overnight at an before heading back to Loreto the next day.
Night sky above the Sierra de la Giganta mountains outside of Loreto
The night sky above the Sierra de la Giganta mountains outside of Loreto in Baja, California. (Photo: Stephanie Vermillion)

Oregon Outback

3+ nights | Central-South Oregon

Few destinations top stargazers鈥 bucket lists like the Australian Outback, but most don鈥檛 know that the U.S. has its own version much closer to home: the Oregon Outback, a stretch of high desert in the state鈥檚 central and southern regions. The region鈥檚 half-dozen DarkSky destinations are all within a few hours鈥 driving distance. Consider spending an additional evening in Sisters, an artsy DarkSky-certified community just outside of Bend.

  • Prineville Reservoir State Park: Begin an hour from Bend at Prineville Reservoir State Park, a stop with kayaking, paddle boarding, swimming, and fishing, as well as year-round for all-hours star access. If you鈥檙e more of a glamper, book one of the park鈥檚 five deluxe log cabins to start your trip in style.
  • Summer Lake: A three-hour drive south of Prineville Reservoir will drop you in the 2.5-million-acre Oregon Outback International Dark Sky Sanctuary. Try the Summer Lake Wildlife Area for birdwatching in the marshes and camping beneath the cosmos. Or, upgrade your visit with a stay at the , a collection of campsites and cabins with onsite soaking pools.
  • Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge: This remote, high-elevation refuge鈥攋ust three hours southeast of Summer Lake鈥攊s the ultimate Pacific Northwest retreat for space lovers. Pitch a tent for free at to snooze beneath the stars, then spend your daytime hours searching for petroglyphs or hiking to see pronghorns, pikas, and bighorn sheep.
Stargazing and aurora hunting in Dawson City, Yukon
Stargazing and aurora hunting in Dawson City, Yukon (Photo: Stephanie Vermillion)

Nova Scotia to New Brunswick

3+ nights | Eastern Canada

Life in Atlantic Canada centers on the sea, but don鈥檛 sleep on this maritime region鈥檚 starry skies. Three Dark Sky Preserves lie within a picturesque, six-hour road trip across the region. You鈥檒l start in Halifax and end in Moncton, though you can add stops like Prince Edward Island along the way.

  • Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site: Kejimkujik鈥檚 thick pine forests, set two hours west of Halifax, brim with natural wonders and Mi鈥檏maw culture. Try hiking or biking through forests or along the coast, or take a to follow the footsteps of the area鈥檚 earliest humans. After sunset, snag a campsite (open mid-May to late October) and point your eyes skyward for a glimmering twilight fresco.
  • Fundy National Park: A four-hour drive north will lead you to Fundy National Park, home to the highest tides in the world. Explore the expansive mud flats and craggy coasts in the afternoon, then watch for planets and stars by camping in the Dark Sky Preserve (sites and yurts available year-round).
  • Kouchibouguac National Park: Conclude your journey with a 115-mile drive up to Kouchibouguac National Park, a mosaic of honey-hued dunes and sprawling wetlands. Spend daylight looking for river otters and seals, or mountain biking the park鈥檚 nearly 40-mile trail system. Camping, available from mid-May to late October, provides the best twilight view. You can also try a nearby cabin, , and visit the park at night.
A view of the stars from Pisgah National Forest in the Southern Appalachians
Far from city lights, the Blue Ridge Mountains are among the best places to see the stars. (Photo: Wes Hicks via Unsplash)

Across the Appalachians

3+ nights | West Virginia to Virginia

Link up three DarkSky getaways just a short trip from D.C. This Virginia-West Virginia adventure totals roughly 150 miles point-to-point. Spend more time in West Virginia鈥檚 Monongahela National Forest, a rock-climbing oasis, if your PTO allows.

  • Watoga State Park: Drive four hours west of Washington, D.C., or 2.5 hours north of Roanoke, for a starry retreat with all sorts of aquatic adventures. Watoga State Park, a 10,000-acre getaway with swimming, fishing, boating, and hiking, is part of one of the east coast鈥檚 largest DarkSky-certified areas. Overnighting in one of the park鈥檚 (from $157), or pitching a tent at one of its three (from $50), puts you smack-dab in the stargazing action.
  • Natural Bridge State Park: Cross state borders to reach Natural Bridge State Park, a two-hour drive east of Watoga. This DarkSky-certified spot is full of karst terrain and navigable caverns. The park will host events starting April 25. Alternatively, book a primitive campsite or at a nearby campground and do your own star-watching from there.
  • James River State Park: Around 60 miles east of Natural Bridge State Park, this Virginia escape offers pristine twilight skies and plenty of overnight accommodations, from park-run to full-service campsites. Spend your non-astronomy hours hiking the scenic 3.5-mile Cabell Trail or angling for smallmouth bass or catfish.
Auroras on the road outside Whitehorse
Auroras on the road outside Whitehorse (Photo: Stephanie Vermillion)

Klondike Highway

3+ nights | Yukon Territory, Canada

This historic highway parallels the route miners traversed during the Klondike Gold Rush. It鈥檚 also one of the continent鈥檚 best night-sky drives. Fortunately, you can tag some of the best bits in a long weekend. Start in Whitehorse, drive six hours up to Dawson City, then head back the way you came.

  • Whitehorse: The aurora often flickers above Whitehorse, the Yukon territory鈥檚 main city, between early fall and spring. Book a private telescope session at the Yukon Astronomical Society鈥檚 Observatory, or try beneath the aurora. Come summer, enjoy another astronomical marvel: the midnight sun. Sleep just outside of town at forest-fringed , a quiet escape tucked amid evergreens.
  • Carmacks: Just two hours north of Whitehorse, you鈥檒l find the quiet riverside town of Carmacks. Local companies offer aurora tours from mid-August to mid-April. Hit the hay at a hotel in town, then stock up on road-trip snacks at the general store for the next leg of your drive.

Dawson City: After the 220-mile drive from Carmacks, your arrival in Dawson City will feel like striking gold. This National Historic Site overflows with Indigenous and gold-rush history. Explore downtown on foot, then admire the nightscapes from a yurt. If you鈥檙e here for the midnight sun, try summer camping up in mountainous Tombstone Territorial Park, a protected area on the Dempster Highway.

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The 12 Best Campgrounds in California to Ditch the Crowds /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-camping-california/ Tue, 08 Apr 2025 09:44:09 +0000 /?p=2699775 The 12 Best Campgrounds in California to Ditch the Crowds

The Golden State might have more campgrounds than any other in the U.S.鈥攁nd more visitors, too. From desert to coast to mountains, here are the best uncrowded spots to get a site.

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The 12 Best Campgrounds in California to Ditch the Crowds

On a late fall camping trip, my family and I were headed to Picacho State Recreation Area. The remote desert park is situated along a scenic 9-mile stretch of the Colorado River on the border of Mexico near Yuma, Arizona. We were trying to get there before sunset, going as fast as the 18-mile dirt road would let us. We were later than planned. A day earlier, a wildfire closed the desert highway, and we set up camp nearby to wait it out. When we finally arrived, it was golden hour, the sinking sun playing off jagged pinnacles of volcanic rock all around us. We were properly awed by the unexpected andesite formations ignited by the last light鈥攁lmost like we planned it.

California might have more stunning campgrounds than any other state. The area boasts the most national parks of any state (nine), 280 state parks with over 15,000 campsites, 840 miles of coastline, three distinct deserts, and mountain ranges with some of the highest peaks in the lower 48. A staggering number of visitors flock to see these wonders, which makes getting a campsite at high profile destinations (ahem, Yosemite) a competitive sport. The good news is that tons of incredible spots don鈥檛 involve the .

From my home in Los Angeles, my camping preference is for California鈥檚 deserts, where I can get off the grid and soak up the solitude. I dig desert camping so much that I even 鈥Death Valley and Joshua Tree. But at some point, the deserts get too hot, and I head to the mountains or coast to keep up my four-season camping habit.

Below are some standout under-the-radar California campgrounds broken out by geography鈥攄esert, coast, and mountain. They range from free and dispersed, to supported, to sites with some serious amenities (hot tubs, what?). Pick any of these, and you鈥檒l be experiencing the state鈥檚 incredibly diverse landscape at its finest.

California’s Desert Camping听

Picacho Campground

Campground photo sunset Picacho
Proof that California might have more stunning campgrounds than any other state. (Photo: Jenna Blough)

Location: Picacho State Recreation Area, north of Yuma, Arizona

Located in California鈥檚 remote Colorado Desert, Picacho Campground is the main campground serving a stretch of the scenic lower Colorado River. The 54 campsites are huge and widely spaced, tucked amid striking ancient volcanic rock formations. For being so far out there, it鈥檚 surprisingly well-developed and maintained with concrete picnic tables, shade structures, fire pits, and bathrooms with solar showers.

Don鈥檛 Miss: Fishing for bass, catfish, and bluegill on the Colorado River. Take the short two-mile drive to Taylor Lake to see one of the river鈥檚 scenic backwater lakes. Hike the two-mile round-trip Stamp Mill Trail over volcanic hills for views of the river and mining ruins.

The Cost: $20 per night

Book It:

Kelso Dunes

Hot springs tub
Welcome to the Mojave Desert. (Photo: Jenna Blough)

Location: Mojave National Preserve

The dispersed sites at the Kelso Dunes sit on the edge of the largest dune field in the Mojave Desert. A jaw-rattling washboard road takes you past the official trailhead for the dunes (there鈥檚 no camping at the trailhead) to a collection of widely spaced campsites. Some have fire pits, and vault toilets are available. If you hear an eerie booming sound, that鈥檚 the singing sand; wind or footsteps trigger small avalanches and create deep vibrations.

Don鈥檛 Miss: You can technically climb the dunes anywhere, but there is an . Follow the three-mile round trip route to a high ridge where you will have sweeping views of, you guessed it, more dunes.

Pro Tip: If you are set on having a campfire, bring your own metal container in case you don鈥檛 get a site with a fire pit.

The Cost: Free

Book It:

Juniper Valley

Mountain view campground at Juniper Valley Weed California.
It’s hard to beat the views from Juniper Valley, near Weed, California. (Photo: Courtesy of Hipcamp)

Location: Weed, California

Awesome views are what make the sites at Juniper Valley a good pick. Two sites are perched in Northern California鈥檚 high desert near the Oregon border amid widely scattered Ponderosa pines, juniper, and manzanita. The lack of dense vegetation means that you have open views of a whole crew of impressive peaks in the Cascade Range鈥攕now-capped Mount Shasta, the distinctly shaped Haystack Butte, and Goosenest, an ancient volcano. The camping here is stripped down from the sparseness of the landscape to the amenities. Sites have a picnic table and access to potable water but no bathrooms or fire pits.

Don鈥檛 Miss: The crystal-clear night skies. Also, hiking in the nearby Shasta-Trinity National Forest. The four-mile out-and-back McCloud River Trail winds through a basalt lava rock canyon, passing three waterfalls with opportunities for summer swimming.

The Cost: $50 per night

The Inn at Benton Hot Springs

Hot springs Benton California
The 13 campsites at the Inn at Benton Hot Springs each have their own tub filled by the natural underground springs on the 1,255-acre property. (Photo: Jenna Blough)

Location: Benton Hot Springs, California

Hot springs are the reason the picturesque almost ghost town of Benton continues to exist. The 13 campsites at the Inn at Benton Hot Springs are a unicorn, each with its own hot tub filled by the natural underground springs on the property. The 1,255 acre-ranch is operated in conjunction with the Eastern Sierra Land Trust to preserve the property from development. Most visitors don鈥檛 leave the campsites, opting to prune up in the tubs while meditating on the foothills of the White Mountains and grazing cows in the field next door. Bring everything you need. The closest town with supplies is Bishop, California, 40 minutes south.

Don鈥檛 Miss: The nearby Volcanic Tablelands, named for a cataclysmic volcanic eruption 750,000 years ago, draws rock climbers for its fantastic bouldering and desert rats for the austere landscape and petroglyph sites.

The Cost: $95 for two-person sites, $105 for three-person sites, plus $10 per night additional person

Book It: up to one year ahead of time; book early

Ricardo Campground

Campground Red Rock Canyon
Easily accessible from Los Angeles, Red Rock Canyon is a beautiful destination in the fall when the temperature is perfect. (Photo: Jenna Blough)

Location: Red Rock Canyon State Park

Campsites at Ricardo Campground are tucked under an unexpected crop of red sandstone cliffs in the northern Mojave Desert. The cliffs rise up out of nowhere along flat and Joshua tree studded desert Highway 14, like you temporarily hallucinated Utah. Most people cut through it on the way to the Sierra Nevada Mountains or Death Valley, but it鈥檚 easy to access from Los Angeles, and a beautiful destination in the fall when temps are lovely.

Don鈥檛 Miss: Hike a series of short trails, including the Red Cliffs Trail and Hagen Canyon Nature Trail to get close to the fluted formations. Venture out on off-road adventures to nearby ghost towns and mining camps including the Burro Schmidt Tunnel, a .5-mile tunnel hand-dug through solid granite.

The Cost: $25 per night

Book It: . Sites can fill by Thursday night or Friday morning in the spring, fall, and on holiday weekends.

Blair Valley

Campsite at Anza Borrego Desert State Park
Primitive sites are scattered along low rocky hills ringing a wide valley at Anza Borrego Desert State Park. (Photo: Jenna Blough)

Location: Anza Borrego Desert State Park

The largest state park in California, the Anza Borrego Desert State Park has badlands, palm oases, mountain peaks, and waterfalls all accessed by miles of unpaved roads and hiking trails. It also has 12 campgrounds and tons of open camping. Of all the options, Blair Valley is my go-to for a secluded base camp to explore the park. Primitive sites are scattered along low rocky hills ringing a wide valley. In wet years, this is a hotspot for spring wildflower viewing. There is a vault toilet near the entrance, and some of the campsites have fire pits.

Don鈥檛 Miss: Anza Borrego is a certified dark sky park, and Blair Valley is one of the best places in the park for stargazing. There are also a few short, interesting hikes that leave from the campground. A 2-mile round trip trail up the face of Ghost Mountain (Yaquitepec) leads to 360-degree views and the ruins of a 1930s adobe homestead. You can also check out pictograph panels and ancient grinding stones by following the trail signs at the end of the valley.

The Cost: Free

Book It:

California’s Coastal Camping

Jedediah Smith Campground

National Park Trails
Northern California’s redwoods are unlike any other trees on the planet. (Photo: Creative Commons)

Location: Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park

The Northern California coast is dotted with a long strand of redwood parks, with the Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park at the top, near the Oregon border. The campground setting has a primeval feel, situated in dense old growth forest along the scenic Smith River, where banana slugs frolic (okay, maybe move slowly and strangely). There are 89 sites with picnic tables, fire rings, and animal-proof lockers.

Don鈥檛 Miss: Hiking through lush rainforest on the park鈥檚 20 miles of trails. Try the 5-mile , which goes through redwood forest, periodically opening up to views of the Smith River. Or opt to drive the historic Howland Hill Road. The Smith River is good for fishing and kayaking.

The Cost: $35 per night

Book It: ; available up to six months ahead of time

Jug Handle Creek Farm

Coves and tidepools at Jug Handle State Preserve
A wooden staircase from the farm leads down to scenic coves with tidepools at Jug Handle State Reserve. (Photo: Courtesy of Hipcamp)

Location: Caspar, California

As if its location on the edge of Mendocino鈥檚 famously wild and rocky coast was not enough, Jug Handle Creek Farm has 33 acres of fir forest and meadow as well as its own native plant nursery, community gardens, and nature trails. The farm is actually a nonprofit nature center supporting nature restoration projects in Mendocino County and offering onsite educational programs for kids. There are 11 private campsites situated across the property in a forest or meadow.

Don鈥檛 Miss: A wooden staircase from the farm leads down to scenic coves with tidepools at Jug Handle State Reserve. Be on the lookout for Harbor seals.

The Cost: from $40 per night

Freedog Farms at Cactus Flower Ranch

Freedog Farms campground Hipcamp
Freedog Farms is a great spot for large groups and families with lots to do and plenty of space for the kids to roam. (Photo: Jenna Blough)

Location: Buellton, California

Freedog Farms is one of my favorite Hipcamp sites, a good resource for unique camping. At the ranch, optimally situated between Central Coast wine country and its beaches, campsites are terraced into 43 acres of rugged hills with incredible views.

Goats, chickens, and dogs run freely throughout the property, hence the name. There are also two vintage trailers where you can stay the night. Even if you are tent camping, the level of amenities automatically upgrades you to glamping status. The features include a central area with a barn for gathering, a firepit, cold dunk tank cowboy pools, hammocks, and a hot outdoor shower. This is a great spot for large groups and families with lots to do and plenty of space for the kids to roam. The owners always have projects in the works and, if they have time, they will give you a tour to go along with your welcome drink.

Don鈥檛 Miss: Have a beach day at nearby Gaviota, Refugio, or El Capitan beaches. Also, do the short hike in Nojoqui Falls Park to an 80-foot waterfall. Afterwards, the Folded Hills Winery Farmstead has a great spot for a picnic.

The Cost: $75 base rate for one person, plus $50 per person, per night; Ages 3-13 costs $10 per person, per night and those under 3 are free

Jalama Beach

Beachfront camping Jalama
The camping at Jalama Beach County Park is at beach level, a rarity along California鈥檚 dramatic, bluff-lined coast. (Photo: Lindsey Kampmeier)

Location: Jalama Beach County Park

The thing that makes this particular beach so special is seclusion. Jalama Road leaves the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) and winds 14 miles through coastal hills to reach the rocky, windswept beach. Plus, the camping here is at beach level, a rarity along California鈥檚 dramatic, bluff-lined coast, with all 107 campsites beachfront or overlooking the ocean. The campground feels like a small village with hot showers, restrooms, water, and a general store with sundries, supplies, breakfast and a 鈥淛alama burger鈥 that people swear by. In addition to the tent and RV sites, the park offers seven cabins.

Don鈥檛 Miss: Jalama Beach for swimming, surfing, whale-watching, birdwatching, and surf fishing.

The Cost: $35 per night standard sites; $50 per night beachfront partial hook-up sites

Book It: ; reservations available six months in advance

California’s Mountain Camping

Mill Creek Resort

Camping at Mill Creek, camper, woods
Mill Creek has plenty of options for every type of camper. (Photo: Courtesy of Hipcamp)

Location: Community of Mill Creek, south of Lassen Volcanic National Park

Mill Creek Resort makes a good base camp for visiting Lassen Volcanic National Park, located 11 miles north. The collection of accommodations, set on 12 acres of cedars and pines, is based around the historic 1930s Mill Creek Lodge. A wooded campground has tent and RV camping, vintage cabins, glamping tents, and retro trailer and RV rentals.

Don鈥檛 Miss: Lassen Volcanic National Park for its steaming fumaroles, idyllic meadows, clear mountain lakes, and volcanoes. Drive the park鈥檚 main road and then choose one of many hikes. Try the 3-mile Bumpass Hell trail past bubbling mud pots or hike the 2.8-mile round trip path from Hat Lake to Paradise Meadows, where you will want to twirl and sing 鈥淭he hills are alive!鈥澨

The Cost: Camping May through October, cabins year-round, from $28 per night tent sites, from $48 per night RV sites, from $90 glamping tents, trailers, RVs, and cabins

听听

Green Creek Campground

Dirt road in the woods
If you can get there, Green Creek Campground is a true gem. (Photo: Jenna Blough)

Location: Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, south of Bridgeport

Green Creek has 21 sites tucked into an aspen grove along the banks of the scenic waterway known for excellent fishing. The combination of first-come, first-served sites and the 11-mile unpaved road to the area can make getting a spot feel daunting, but if you鈥檙e willing to chance it, the campground is a gem. On a trip this past Labor Day Weekend, we showed up mid-Friday afternoon and landed a campsite, but they were all full by evening. Group sites are directly along the creek and can be reserved. If the campground is full, you can post up at one of the backcountry sites along Green Creek Road. Strictly no fires are allowed at these sites.

Don鈥檛 Miss: A moderate trail from the campsite heads into the Hoover Wilderness for a six-mile round trip hike through aspen groves to alpine Green Lake. Or change course entirely and head back out to CA-395 to visit Mono Lake, a high desert lake where limestone spires rise from the water to create a hauntingly beautiful sight with opportunities for swimming, hiking, and kayaking.

The Cost: $22 per night, $75 and $100 per night for group sites (25 and 50 people)

Book It: , late April to early October

Rock Creek Lake Campground

Mountain lake Mill Creek
At Mill Creek Resort, 鈥渢he hills are alive!鈥 (Photo: Jenna Blough)

Location: Inyo National Forest, northwest of Bishop, California

The forest service leaves a wheelbarrow in the parking area so you can haul gear across Rock Creek to the 28 campsites, tucked into aspen and pine forest at 9,600 feet. It鈥檚 surrounded by the gorgeous John Muir Wilderness, known for granite peaks, creeks, and alpine lakes. Make sure to use the provided bear boxes and keep a bear-safe camp. On my last trip, a surprise visitor showed up at night, enticed by a neighbor鈥檚 buffet of un-stored food and drink.

Don鈥檛 Miss: Fishing and kayaking or canoeing the lake. on the other side of the lake, has kayak and canoe rentals (as well as a small store and breakfast). Trailheads for miles of spectacular hiking begin along Rock Creek Lake Road. Hike the 8-mile round-trip trail through Little Lakes Valley to several alpine lakes and meadows for one of the most scenic and popular trails in the area. For a little more solitude, check out the moderate nine-mile hike to Hilton Lakes.

The Cost: $35 per night

Book It: available six months in advance, May through September

 


Jenna Blough听is an avid camper and fan of western deserts. She is the author of three Moon travel guides to California including and . When she鈥檚 not planning her next camping adventure, you will find her hiking a canyon or driving a dirt road, because that鈥檚 where all the good stuff is. She lives in Los Angeles with her husband and daughter and never gets tired of exploring the Golden State.

Headshot of author Jen Blough
The author camping in the Mojave Desert. (Photo: Courtesy of Jenna Blough)

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How to Pack for Air Travel Like the Ultimate Pro /adventure-travel/advice/packing-tips-air-travel/ Sat, 05 Apr 2025 09:00:30 +0000 /?p=2699840 How to Pack for Air Travel Like the Ultimate Pro

When it comes to flying, expect the unexpected, and make sure the gear in your suitcase reflects that鈥攕o you can save yourself the headache later

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How to Pack for Air Travel Like the Ultimate Pro

It鈥檚 fun to imagine an apocalyptic scenario, and purchase the kind of neon green tomahawk you think will help you defeat zombie hoards. (Spoiler alert: it won鈥檛.) But when it comes to preparing for more likely situations鈥攕ay, an emergency while traveling鈥攎any of us are guilty of being caught flat-footed.

I get it. With severely limited space in carry-on luggage, plus the very real possibility of never seeing anything you check ever again, it鈥檚 easy to focus on the destinations on the other side. But travel often involves as much frustration as it does excitement. Based on over three decades of regular air travel both here in the United States and abroad, here are some simple changes I鈥檝e made to what I pack that help eliminate or address common problems.

Make the Most of Multiple-Use Clothing

Clothing is absolutely ket. For example, when packing for a backpacking trip, the key to saving weight is to only bring items that serve multiple purposes. A puffy jacket can keep you warm and be your pillow. Duct tape can fix torn clothing and prevent blisters. With space so limited inside a carry-on, adopting that same approach works just as well while traveling. Clothing will take up the most space in your luggage by far, so getting the most out of your clothes is key to travel preparedness.

Wool is a super-fabric that helps keep you cool when it鈥檚 hot, and warm when it鈥檚 cold. Versus cotton, it dries much faster and compared to synthetics, it can last through many more unwashed wears before getting stinky. Merino is softer next to the skin than other varieties.

Switching cotton socks and t-shirts to merino items is an obvious trick. Less so is the button down dress shirt. By packing one of those made from lightweight wool, not only do you get a single item that will better resist wrinkles and smells versus your standard cotton items, but also something that when paired with that merino t-shirt, quickly becomes a performance mid-layer, adding insulation and moisture wicking to your layering system. Last summer, I wore a ($168) to walk around Paris sightseeing all day, then headed to Frenchie for the five-course tasting menu. I was comfortable and looked good throughout.

Another versatile item is the shacket. Heavier than a button down and lighter than most jackets, a good shaket (or jac-shirt) can be left unbuttoned to dress up a tee, or snapped closed with the collarturned up to serve as a warm mid-layer. Depending on the time of year and destination, I choose from items made from polyester fleece, wool, or down, and am rewarded with a layer that transitions easily from mountain to city, or outdoor activity to indoor environment. For more casual environments, I practically live in a black ($129).

The final piece in any layering system is the shell. These seal out wind and precipitation, and trap warm air in your other layers, keeping you toasty and dry. And while really hard, persistent rain demands the reliability of a waterproof-breathable membrane, high levels of activity, and changing conditions work better without one. Because waxed-cotton canvas can be adapted to increasing needs for waterproofness with the application of more wax, because it breathes better than any membrane, and because it can be dressed up or down to suit scenarios ranging from airport terminals to fancy restaurants, I鈥檝e transitioned to wax cotton shells for travel. ($250) features a classic style that looks good in pretty much any environment while providing ample weather protection.

On the upper half of your body, there are very few conditions that layering a merino t-shirt, a wool button down, a jac-shirt, and a waxed cotton shell will not be able to handle.

Arcade belt
The two-way stretch of the Arcade Hardware belt makes it comfortable even through long haul flights, while the robust construction means it can support heavy loads from tools or other gear. The polymer buckle means you won’t need to take it off to go through a security screening. (Photo: Arcade)

Carry Cords Compatible with Common Outlets, Plus Extra Power

Traveling between countries with different plug designs can be a nightmare. Because of that, many planes, hotel rooms, and offices have added USB-A compatibility to their power outlets. But few devices still use that design. Before you fly, purchasing cables that start with USB-A, and end in whatever style of port your devices require will simplify your packing and guarantee you鈥檒l be able to plug in no matter where you find yourself.

Pro Tip: Even if you find yourself in a hotel or office without USB-A wall outlets, televisions, monitors, and many other devices will include one. Look behind those before declaring defeat.

But as devices have moved away from USB-A, so have power bricks. To solve that problem, I recently upgraded to . That packs a wall charger, two USB-C outlets, one USB-A outlet, and a 10,000mAh battery all into one $70, cigarette pack-sized, multiple use device.

Dose Your Liquids and Don’t Forget the First-Aid Kit

Grab this assortment of travel-sized, color-coded, , and take the time to measure out the amount of potions and medications you need for the duration of your trip. Write out the contents on the bottle using a Sharpie.

In addition to everyday necessities ( and toothpaste), I like to bring some ibuprofen, Pepto Bismol, peppermint Dr. Bronners, a prescription antibiotic (ask your doctor), and a travel-size pack of skin-friendly wet wipes. For a first-aid kit, I carry a small role of duct tape, a tube of 0.5-ounce tube of Neosporin, and a pack of 0.17-ounce .

Properly Light Your Way at Night

Phone flashlights are all well and good鈥攗ntil it鈥檚 dark out and you need to see something further away than right in front of you. Plus, phone flashlights aren’t hands-free by nature and they suck battery when you鈥檙e trying to conserve the last few bars of precious juice. This is going to be a radical suggestion, I know, but carry a dedicated flashlight.

In my carry-on, I keep an 听($32). That gives me the easy ability to switch from a 130-yard spot beam to a very bright 500-lumen flood, to a night vision-preserving red light that鈥檚 capable of flashing for visibility, all with an intuitive, rotating, physical knob. The tiny 2.25-inch package can then be clipped to a backpack strap, shirt pocket, or hat should you need to go hands free, or inside a tent or to a curtain should you need area illumination.

I鈥檝e used mine to add extra evening visibility to a crappy rental bike and to hike nighttime trails. With a battery life that lasts 144 hours on its lowest brightness and an hour and 21 minutes on full blast, I just charge it before I fly somewhere.

Save Your Documents

My wife had her passport stolen out of her purse during our last visit to London, while her purse was hanging on the back of my chair at a pub so I could guard it. Because we snapped a picture of that way back when it was renewed, then emailed a copy of that image to both of our email accounts (complete with an easily searchable subject line), it didn鈥檛 cause us more than an hour of inconvenience, since we had proof of ID ready to go when we swung by the embassy for a replacement. Do the same with your driver鈥檚 license, and any visas or other travel documents. Should the worst happen, and your phone be lost, stolen, or disabled, you can log into your email from another person鈥檚 phone, or at an Internet cafe, and print out what you need to cross a border, rent a car, check into a hotel, or deal with the police. Though, it’s also important to know that many officials will not accept a digital I.D., this is a good starting point to have your details handy.

keychain toolkit
This is my usual keychain tool kit, which is currently lost somewhere in my gear closet.

Bring Gear to Fix Problems

Tim Leatherman came up with the idea for the original multitool while on vacation in Italy way back in 1975. But the perfect solution for a toolkit you can fit in your pocket isn鈥檛 much use if you can鈥檛 bring it through security. Enter the : a keychain-sized tool designed for TSA compliance, but which the company 鈥渞etired鈥 in 2023. You can still find them and brick and mortar retailers.

I鈥檝e had one on my keychain for over a decade now, and have used it to fix everything from cars and motorcycles, to opening up a foreign power outlet to rig a connection with a plug from another country. It sails through security here in the U.S., but I have had them confiscated in European airports.

There are a variety of other TSA-compliant multitools out there, but I鈥檝e yet to find anything else that combines Leatherman鈥檚 quality with the practicality of having both pliers and scissors onboard. The is one such option, and at just $20, it’s cheap enough you won’t miss it if you do have to leave it behind at security.

In addition to the multitool, I like to bring along a few feet of paracord, one or two safety pins, and a Bic lighter. None of that takes up any noticeable space, and all three can be used to repair luggage, hang a clothesline (the Dr. Bronner鈥檚 in your toiletries means you can do laundry in a sink), drain a blister, or light a fire.

What About Your Feet?

Everyone has a different style, different needs, and different feet. Finding a boot that鈥檚 all-day comfortable, looks nice with a pair of jeans, and that provides the traction and weather resistance necessary for your destination and plans is both the solution, and the challenge.

For more casual travel to more outdoorsy destinations, I like to find a high quality leather hiking boot, then wear those for pretty much everything. Since I鈥檓 of German descent, it鈥檚 no surprise that brands like 听and 听fit me best. Your results will differ.

For dressier cities and countries, I鈥檝e found that , an Italian brand imported by Huckberry, is just the ticket for walking all over during the day, then looking nice at night.

Whatever you buy, replacing the the insoles with higher-quality items made by a brand like 听will offer dramatically improved comfort and support.

Putting in the effort to find the right footwear will give you the ability to move through airports and cities in comfort, hike trails safely, and run away from anything that threatens you.

The Bottom Line

Travel already costs a ton of money, flight delays and cancellations already cause enough headaches. There’s not a lot you can do about either, but some basic preparedness can prevent other variables like weather or walking distances from becoming major problems.

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The Goldilocks Tent That Changed It All, 搁贰滨鈥檚 Iconic Half Dome Turns 45 /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/the-goldilocks-tent-that-changed-it-all-reis-iconic-half-dome-turns-45/ Wed, 02 Apr 2025 13:24:38 +0000 /?p=2699148 The Goldilocks Tent That Changed It All, 搁贰滨鈥檚 Iconic Half Dome Turns 45

The tent that launched a whole new generation of backpackers is now more comfortable, convenient, and protective than ever

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The Goldilocks Tent That Changed It All, 搁贰滨鈥檚 Iconic Half Dome Turns 45

Will Dunn owes his life鈥攁nd maybe his marriage鈥攖o his REI Co-op Half Dome tent.

鈥淭he tent was a gift from my now-in-laws before we were in-laws,鈥 he says. 鈥淚t was my first backpacking tent, and it got us through some pretty delightful hikes鈥攁nd some pretty harrowing ones.鈥 On one trip, Dunn and his now-spouse were backpacking in Utah鈥檚 Canyonlands when a windstorm swept in out of nowhere.

鈥淲hen it hit us, it hit hard鈥攖here were rocks and sticks beating down on the sides of the tent, and we didn鈥檛 know when it would end鈥 sure was happy to have that shelter.鈥

 

Dunn鈥檚 love letter to his Half Dome is one of thousands. After all, when a tent has been around since 1980鈥攁nd is built to last through decades of use鈥攊t should be no surprise that it has racked up a serious fan club among REI members. And in this case, the Half Dome didn鈥檛 just exist for 45 years鈥攖hanks to member feedback it remained at the forward edge of shelter design for its category. It still is. That鈥檚 not surprising considering that when the tent first debuted in 1980, it revolutionized backpacking for a whole generation of hikers.

The Origins of a Legend

If you wanted to buy a tent back in the late 鈥70s, your options were pretty limited. You had your heavy synthetic dome tents, flimsy A-frame pup tents, and the old-school canvas numbers your local scouting troop probably lugged around on character-building expeditions. You could choose between a lightweight design and a livable one. Very few brands were building shelters that ticked both boxes鈥攖hat is, until decided to reinvent the tent back in 1979.

REI
(Photo: REI)

The goal: straighter walls and more livability, all in a lightweight, weatherproof package. Ambitious? Yes. But the team tackled the challenge the same way it did with any new gear project. It polled REI members, gathered feedback, and set to work creating something that really answered the needs of the hiking community.

After a few iterations, the REI design team drew up a cross-pole design with a single entryway. The vertical walls made it easy to organize gear, get dressed, and play cards without bumping nylon. That first tent, released in 1980 and dubbed the Half Dome, was already a game changer. Then David Mydans got ahold of it.

Mydans was a backpacker and climbing bum who got his start at Chouinard Equipment before REI brought him on as a product designer in 1988. He was famous for spending hours on the cutting room floor, sewing up prototypes and tearing them apart, creating gear piece by piece the old-fashioned way.

REI Half Dome tent
(Photo: REI)

鈥淧roduct design at REI is still very hands-on, but he was really passionate about it,鈥 says David Crumrine, 搁贰滨鈥檚 current gear design lead. When he started thinking about tent design, Mydans knew he was tired of crawling over his backpacking partners to get to his sleeping bag. He also knew REI Co-op members wanted more livability. 搁贰滨鈥檚 ethos has always been to let member feedback drive innovation, and the Half Dome鈥檚 progression owes a lot to that philosophy. But for years, further improvements to the tent鈥檚 livability proved elusive. Then, around 2000, Mydans had an epiphany.

鈥淗e realized he could create a tent with two doors and two vestibules,鈥 Dunn says. (Since that fateful Canyonlands trip so many years ago, Dunn has become 搁贰滨鈥檚 staff historian and archivist.) After months of tinkering, Mydans turned his epiphany into a prototype: a two-door tent that was comfortable, lightweight, and easy to set up. He dubbed it the Half Dome 2.

Wind Testing on Highway 410

Of course, comfort and convenience weren鈥檛 the only essential criteria. If this thing was going to work for hardcore backpackers like Mydans, it also needed to be protective.

REI Half Dome tent
(Photo: REI)

Enter wind-resistance testing 1.0. Back then, product quality and safety standards hadn鈥檛 really been established yet. REI often had to create its own to make sure new gear was up to snuff. To test wind resistance, REI fashioned a DIY 鈥渓aboratory鈥: an employee鈥檚 green pickup truck with a giant wooden platform bolted onto it. Whenever the gear team had a new tent to test, they鈥檇 lash it to the platform and drive down a stretch of Highway 410 at 65 mph. A passenger would observe the tent and take diligent notes while the walls flapped thunderously in the wind.

鈥淭he testing was actually pretty scientific for the setup they had. They鈥檇 test a tent with the door closed, door open, guyed out, not guyed out鈥攜ou name it,鈥 Dunn says. REI did this from the mid-1970s all the way up until 1993. (The iconic green pickup is now retired; in the 鈥90s, the co-op switched to wind tunnel analysis. Today, it relies more on computer modeling and in-depth materials testing.)

Awards and Innovation听

When the two-door Half Dome 2 launched in 2001, campers quickly fell in love with it. Then, Backpacker Magazine put the Half Dome on the map, awarding the tent a coveted after two staffers survived a blizzard in it in 2002.

REI
(Photo: REI)

Backpacker also gave the tent an Editors鈥 Choice Gold Award in 2010. That鈥檚 about the time Mydans introduced a new dual hub design that vastly improved the tent鈥檚 interior space and livability. (Again, this was a piece of member feedback the gear team took to heart and brought to life.)

Later, the tent got inducted into the Backpacker Gear Hall of Fame and earned 国产吃瓜黑料 Magazine鈥檚 Gear of the Year Award. For the editors, nominating it felt like a no-brainer.

鈥淭he Half Dome鈥et a new standard in livability and affordability for a two-person tent,鈥 Backpacker then-editor-in-chief Dennis Lewon .

But the story doesn鈥檛 end there. Over the years, REI kept pushing the envelope. As with its other products, the co-op leveraged new materials and modern technology, finding ways to do more with less weight. Ultimately, designers were able to dramatically expand the Half Dome鈥檚 interior space without making it any heavier. The tent became the centerpiece of . The fan club only grew.

REI
(Photo: REI)

鈥淭he Half Dome is the bestselling tent at REI by a large margin,鈥 says Rick Meade, a senior product manager and the brand鈥檚 former tent buyer. 鈥淲e call it the Goldilocks of tents. It鈥檚 like your all-wheel-drive SUV鈥攊t does everything well, and it鈥檚 your trusted companion for all your adventures.鈥

A New Take on a Timeless Classic

Now, REI is once again relaunching its fan-favorite Half Dome, once again with member-requested updates.

鈥淲e did a complete nationwide study a few years back where we went to all the major regions of the U.S., getting out with co-op members in the field and doing interviews,鈥 Crumrine says. 鈥淚 remember being with a member in their house and just filling up their living room setting up their new Half Dome tent. We鈥檝e done that kind of thing with other products over the years, and we always learn so much through that cooperative research.鈥

The new tent doesn鈥檛 just leverage those recent takeaways鈥攊t also stands on the shoulders of 45 years of member inputs and feedback. The result: an all-new Half Dome 2, Half Dome 2 Plus, and Half Dome 3.

REI Half Dome Tent

The new tents boast best-in-class comfort, more interior volume, and better weather protection than ever before. All the tent鈥檚 outer coatings now have nonfluorinated durable water-repellent (DWR) that helps moisture bead up on the surface, and the rainfly material is more durable thanks to an all-new ripstop reinforcement. And like all REI gear, it鈥檚 and backed by the co-op鈥檚 100% satisfaction guarantee. In sum: It鈥檚 a tent by the people, for the people.

鈥淲hat I really love about the Half Dome tent is its intersection with design and community,鈥 Dunn says. 鈥淚t meets those community needs. It鈥檚 everybody鈥檚 tent.鈥

Give Back Bonus

REI Co-op is teaming up with the National Parks Conservation Association to defend America’s favorite places. Your Half Dome tent purchase helps power this partnership. From March 25 through April 30, REI will donate 20% of proceeds from full-price Half Dome tent sales to the National Parks Conservation Association. Since 1919, the nonpartisan, nonprofit organization has been the leading voice in safeguarding our national parks.


is a consumer cooperative that exists to inspire and equip everyone to get outside. Everything it makes is created with the mindset and community of a co-op. From the backyard to base camp, 搁贰滨鈥檚 products are designed to be best in class for the great outdoors and the greater good.

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