Rolando Garcia led his first group of trekkers to the top of 9,220-foot Mount Roraima in 1983, while he was still a teenager. He would go on to summit the mountain,听the highest point in Venezuela鈥檚 Canaima National Park, at least 250 times during听his career as one of the best guides in the region.
Garcia honed his craft in the time of 鈥渢he other Venezuela,鈥听when the country was the wealthiest in Latin America, during the last decades of the 20th听century. The prosperity helped create听a steady stream of adventurous Venezuelans and international tourists to Canaima to see Angel Falls, the world鈥檚 highest waterfall, and the ancient landscape that inspired Arthur Conan Doyle鈥檚 The Lost World. During that time, the park also attracted听climbers seeking new big-wall routes up听its听giant tabletop mountains, called听tepuis, including Kukenan and Roraima, which have hosted some of the most famous accomplishments of听,听,听.
Straddling the main road that cuts through Canaima to the Brazilian border, and sitting at the base of Roraima, the indigenous Pem贸n village of Kumaracapay became a key stop for those听coming to the park. It was also home to Garcia and his wife,听Zoraida Rodriguez, who hosted climbers and trekkers in their household.
Many members of Garcia鈥檚 community might never get the chance to venture beyond their own corner of the park, but his听career as the country鈥檚 most famous guide听gave Garcia the chance to travel throughout Venezuela.
鈥淧eople who saw Rolando at home in his hammock might think he had never left his village,鈥 says Daniel Mamopulakos, 鈥渂ut this guy has been everywhere.鈥 Mamopulakos, a climber and mountain biker who lives roughly 600 miles northwest of Canaima听in Caracas, first met Garcia in 2002 and became close with him over dozens of backcountry trips.

I met Garcia in April 2018. He was my guide for a two-week expedition in Canaima听with the an organization of Venezuelan rock climbers developing sustainable tourism in the park.听He had a compact build and a quick smile. He wasn鈥檛 an obvious athlete until you saw the grace of his movement. Garcia knew every rock from his years guiding听but was no less engaged than I was seeing this landscape for the first time.
While we were together,听Garcia explained how he and his wife helped make Kumaracapay a destination for visitors, their fight to keep tourism in the park alive in the face of political upheaval, and his vision for the future of the park and the Pem贸n when the country stabilized and visitors returned.
鈥淭he Garcia family is famous among people who know the history of trekking in the area,鈥 says Mamopulakos. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e one of the few families who have managed to continue in tourism despite our country鈥檚 struggles.鈥
Venezuela鈥檚 economy has been in free fall for nearly a decade due to听corruption and crumbling infrastructure under the leadership of Hugo Ch谩vez and his handpicked successor, Nicol谩s Maduro. Years of crisis also caused a dramatic shift in the economy of Canaima National Park. As tourism dollars declined, the Pem贸n turned increasingly to work in听 in and around the park. All around Garcia, guides and porters were becoming miners. Once popular destinations were in danger of becoming mining pits.
Despite these changes, Garcia was determined to continue his family鈥檚 traditional way of life.听To earn income outside of guiding, he听and his wife opened a store outside their home on the main road through Canaima. They sold empanadas to truck drivers on their way to the Brazilian border and served meals of chicken, rice, and beer to the trekkers and touring mountain bikers that still came to the park. The family made wood carvings, weavings, and other crafts to sell to tourists as well, small mementos of time spent in the family鈥檚 home in the shadow of the mountains.
Because his chosen profession was听becoming untenable, Garcia was eager to help the r. The group argues that even a small number of steady jobs in the tourism industry have the potential to create an economic alternative to mining, providing opportunities for indigenous communities while protecting the environment.
In recent years, Garcia was also spending time in the backcountry with members of the听organization. Those expeditions were part of a larger mission to train a new generation of Pem贸n guides. Garcia was听important to their work鈥攁n example to the younger porters that it was once听possible to earn their livelihood in the mountains and could be again.
However, in February of this year, the full force of Venezuela鈥檚 most recent听crisis descended on the quiet town.
The current turmoil was touched off in January when opposition leader and president of the National Assembly Juan Guaid贸 invoked the constitution to declare himself the legitimate president, citing irregularities in Maduro鈥檚听2018 reelection. Recognized by the United States and more than 50 other countries as Venezuela鈥檚 rightful leader, Guaid贸 began coordinating with the U.S., Brazil, and Colombia to provide humanitarian aid for the country鈥檚 impoverished citizens. Maduro viewed the arrival of foreign food and medicine as a threat to his regime and sent military forces to block the aid shipments from entering the country. Pem贸n leaders听 their intention to peacefully intervene in support of the aid, setting the stage for a showdown with Maduro鈥檚 government.
Venezuelan government forces entered Kumaracapay in the early hours of February 22, on their way to block the aid at the Brazilian border. Villagers attempted to stop them. It鈥檚 unclear whether they set up a physical or human barrier. In a cell-phone video taken that morning, more than a dozen armed soldiers are seen entering the village on foot. A man can be heard addressing them calmly: 鈥淚f you want to enter, you have to leave your weapons behind.鈥 As the soldiers continue to advance, he pleads with them to 鈥渞espect the people.鈥 Then the shooting begins.
Zoraida Rodriguez听confronted the soldiers, asking them to leave. She was shot point-blank and died just steps from her doorway. Garcia ran to her aid and was shot in the abdomen. He survived a six-hour transport by car to a hospital in Brazil听but died on March 2 after a week in intensive care.
The couple had five children, ages 10 through 19.听Their eldest daughter witnessed the attack. Her account was relayed to me by Mamopulakos and by another eyewitness interviewed by Foro Penal, a Venezuelan human-rights organization. My attempts to contact Garcia鈥檚 daughter were unsuccessful.听

In addition to Garcia and Rodriguez, the attack killed Kliber P茅rez, a 24-year-old mountain guide. Eleven others were wounded. Later that day, the assault on protesters continued in the nearby town of Santa Elena de Uair茅n, at the southern gateway of the park. In total, Foro听Penal听听that seven died, more than 40 were wounded, and more than 60 were illegally detained during the attacks on the two villages.
The Bolivar state governor, a member of the ruling Socialist Party,听blamed the Pem贸n听for the attacks, in an from March, calling听the Kumaracapay residents鈥櫶齛ctions听鈥渢errorist acts.鈥
Many from Garcia鈥檚 village have since fled to Brazil in fear of further government reprisal. This exodus includes his five children, who were able to join their father at his bedside before he died. Since contacting听friends of the family听to announce their parent鈥檚听deaths, they鈥檝e听gone deeper into hiding in听Brazil and are out of contact. I tried to reach them multiple times听but was unsuccessful.
In recent months, Venezuela has suffered听 that have brought major cities to the brink of anarchy and made communicating with remote parts of Canaima even more difficult than usual. While there have been no reports of further violence,听 the possibility of a renewed assault on the Pem贸n as Maduro clings to power.
During my expedition with Garcia, he described a hoped-for future in which the situation in Venezuela stabilizes听and the tourists return. He knew he was getting too old to take rock climbers and other adventurers on some of the more arduous trips into the tepuis. He dreamed of opening a school to teach the next generation of Pem贸n guides, having witnessed the beginnings of this goal with the Tepui Project鈥檚 work and looking on with pride as some of the best climbers in Venezuela taught young Pem贸n rope skills.
As the crisis in Venezuela continues, Garcia鈥檚听own long-term vision for his people and the future of Canaima itself remain uncertain. But Garcia was a mountain guide. He knew how to navigate uncertainty and the rewards that lay on the other side.