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Joe Buffalo Child rejoices at seeing the northern lights dance in the sky above Yellowknife, in Canada鈥檚 Northwest Territories.
(Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)
Joe Buffalo Child rejoices at seeing the northern lights dance in the sky above Yellowknife, in Canada鈥檚 Northwest Territories.
Joe Buffalo Child rejoices at seeing the northern lights dance in the sky above Yellowknife, in Canada鈥檚 Northwest Territories. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

Northern Lights Hunting with This Indigenous Tracker Was the Most Moving 国产吃瓜黑料 of My Life


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Joe Buffalo Child has a deep connection to the auroras, which his people, the Dene, believe carry messages from their ancestors. We headed into the boreal forest seeking light.


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Joe Buffalo Child grew up beneath the northern lights, but one starry winter night in particular remains etched in his memory. He was six years old and camping with his grandparents to monitor the family trapline, a 50-mile stretch of snares set for rabbits and muskrats in the snowy boreal forest outside Yellowknife, the capital of Canada鈥檚 Northwest Territories. Slipping out of the cozy tent, his breath fogging as he gazed skyward, it wasn鈥檛 long before Buffalo Child found what he was seeking: 鈥淚t was stars, stars, stars, then鈥boom! The aurora鈥檚 there,鈥 he told me, his eyes sparkling at the flashback.

On trapline trips like these, learned about the many ways nature was tied to the traditions of his people, the , who have inhabited central and northwest Canada for over 30,000 years. By day, his grandfather took him hunting or fishing鈥攐utings that came with important lessons, like how to predict an approaching storm by studying the movement of the clouds or the height of a seagull鈥檚 flight. Come dusk, bathed in the gas lamp鈥檚 honey glow, his grandmother shared spiritual beliefs, like how Buffalo Child鈥檚 beloved tie-dyed sky dance, known in the Denesuline language as ya鈥檏e ngas (鈥渢he sky is stirring鈥), carried messages from his ancestors.

鈥淚 was on the land under the aurora even as a baby,鈥 he said. 鈥淭he aurora鈥檚 always been part of our life.鈥

This deep knowledge of nature and cultural connection to the night sky were foundational to his future as a professional northern-lights chaser and guide for his company . Now 60 years old, Buffalo Child has spent nearly two decades sharing his aurora-tracking abilities with those willing to make the journey up to Yellowknife. He is considered one of the most well-known aurora hunters in North America.

Northern lights and the Milky Way, taken outside Yellowknife, in the Northern Territories
As particles from solar winds hit earth鈥檚 atmosphere, they interact with different gasses, resulting in different colors of auroras: green (the most common) is caused by oxygen, blues and purples by nitrogen, and red (rarely seen) by less concentrated oxygen at higher altitudes. (Photo: HeatherECampbell/iStock/Getty)
In addition to aurora hunts, Buffalo Child leads day trips around greater Yellowknife, including stops at the Dene First Nation community of Ndilo.
In addition to aurora hunts, Buffalo Child leads day trips around greater Yellowknife, including stops at the Dene First Nation community of Ndilo. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

My own aurora-chasing adventure in Yellowknife this September began with the odds stacked against me. The city is a dream destination for astrotourists, thanks to its location within the auroral oval鈥攖he doughnut-shaped zone of northern-lights activity. The ribbons dance here an average of 240 nights annually. Even so, the recommends staying a minimum of three nights to give the weather and solar activity a chance to align.

Flight delays robbed me of one precious night, and thick cloud cover the following day only amplified my anxiety. I passed the hours I spent waiting for Buffalo Child to pick me up for my first aurora chase of the trip by frantically refreshing the forecast app on my phone in search of a clear-sky prediction.

This fretting continued until 10 P.M., when a booming voice in my hotel lobby set the night鈥檚 adventure in motion. It was Buffalo Child. 鈥, let鈥檚 go!鈥

Buffalo Child looked as much like a football coach as he did a tour guide, with his baseball cap, jet-black joggers, and Nike trainers. I stashed my phone, then ran to greet him and meet the rest of the tour group. Buffalo Child鈥檚 wide smile and the slogan on the back of his company shirt put my weather woes at ease: 鈥淎s long as I can see the land I know everything will be okay.鈥

Buffalo Child shares tribal traditions with his tour groups. He learned many life lessons while fishing with his grandfather on Great Slave Lake (pictured).
Buffalo Child shares tribal traditions with his tour groups. He learned many life lessons while fishing with his grandfather on Great Slave Lake, pictured here. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)
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(Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

Spotting the northern lights is never guaranteed, something I鈥檝e learned in the five years I鈥檝e hunted auroras around the world. And while this fact twists my belly into sailors鈥 knots, it鈥檚 why I love it. It鈥檚 about the chase, the spontaneity, and鈥攁s Buffalo Child told our group of six as we set off in the tour van鈥攖he adrenaline.

When Buffalo Child launched his company in 2007, nearly all his tourism peers had taken a stationary, more comfort-oriented approach to aurora-borealis-watching. They built camps with toasty tepees and fires to keep guests warm while awaiting the show. 鈥淎s a single father, I didn鈥檛 have the resources for a camp,鈥 he said. Instead, he developed an experience inspired by his favorite show, the Discovery Channel鈥檚 .

Buffalo Child鈥檚 approach is true aurora hunting, I thought as we motored north up Highway 4, also known as the Ingraham Trail. And he is a master tracker. On suboptimal nights, like this one threatened to be, Buffalo Child uses his grandfather鈥檚 weather-prediction training. He also relies on a regional network of Dene pals, who text him sky-clarity updates, helping him find elusive gaps in the clouds through which the colorful pillars can be seen.

Our outing would test him, however. Thick clouds cloaked the sky for the first two hours. The only thing we had going for us was their speed, which revealed brief patches of stars. Around midnight, we pulled off the road for a break. Buffalo Child scanned the heavens while we stretched our legs and sipped hot cocoa. I pointed my iPhone camera toward a patch of stars and hit the shutter button. While my eyes weren鈥檛 adjusted enough to the dark to see it, my camera caught a brief burst of purple pillars between the clouds.

鈥淛oe, they鈥檙e up there!鈥 I squealed. He raced over to me, but within seconds the cloud gap had closed. Still, catching some听activity gave us hope.

Buffalo Child鈥檚 beloved tie-dyed sky dance, known in Denesuline language as ya鈥檏e ngas (鈥渢he sky is stirring鈥), carried messages from his ancestors.

Back on the hunt, around 1 A.M., Buffalo Child decided that it was time to follow his grandfather鈥檚 golden rule when it came to bad weather: Don鈥檛 wait for the dark clouds to pass鈥攔ide straight through the storm and clear skies will follow.

He looked at us with a mischievous grin. 鈥淟et鈥檚 go into the storm,鈥 he said.

The atmosphere turned electric, with communal nerves so palpable that the van felt like the starting line of a marathon. We knew this was our final shot. I smooshed my nose against the cold window, willing stars to appear.

Less than 20 minutes later I spied a glittery dot, then more, then the full outline of the Big Dipper. Soon after, the other side of the vehicle erupted in cheers. 鈥淭he lights are out!鈥 shrieked my seatmate from Toronto.

We reached a roadside turnout and scrambled out the door. Lavender and lime streamers sashayed through a wide hole in the clouds. Giddy chatter filled the air. When Buffalo Child shot off his precautionary bear flare, it felt like celebratory fireworks.

I felt tingly while gazing heavenward, the fluorescent hues intensifying as my eyes adjusted to the dark. Awe-striking moments like these put me in a kind of flow state, where my senses heighten and something near transcendence settles in. I wasn鈥檛 alone. Buffalo Child had described similar sentiments earlier that day: 鈥淲hen you鈥檙e under the aurora, you鈥檙e overcome with this profound feeling鈥攜ou know you鈥檙e in the right place, at the right time in your life, to see it.鈥

Buffalo Child sets off preventative flares to discourage wildlife in the surrounding forest outside Yellowknife from approaching.
Buffalo Child sets off preventative flares to discourage wildlife in the surrounding forest from approaching. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)
A burst of radiant auroras burst through the clouds above the boreal forest outside Yellowknife, in the Northern Territories.
The reward for persevering through the night: a burst of radiant color atop the clouds (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

We only had ten minutes to enjoy the fluorescent show before the curtain of clouds closed, but that brevity didn鈥檛 disappoint. We felt triumphant, and back in the van we shared photos and relived the night鈥檚 adventure.

I realized that Buffalo Child wasn鈥檛 among us. Peeking out the back window, I saw him standing alone, peering up at the obsidian sky.

鈥淚 step away and talk to my grandparents鈥 in these moments, he told me later.

Buffalo Child鈥檚 Dene upbringing did more than hone his night-sky savvy. His grandparents filled his childhood with love and taught him to be hardworking and self-sufficient. He believes that these traits protected him 鈥渓ike a body of armor鈥 when, just months after his cherished aurora-streaked trapline trip, the Royal Canadian Mounted Police forced him into a government-funded residential school. The institution was designed to assimilate Indigenous youth into white culture by alienating them from their families; Buffalo Child remembers it as an abuse-riddled environment.

Buffalo Child鈥檚 Dene grandparents
Buffalo Child鈥檚 Dene grandparents, Joe and Judith Buggins 听(Photos: Courtesy Joe Buffalo Child)

Decades later, as an adult, Buffalo Child鈥檚 strong cultural ties inspired him to swap a stifling engineering job for a passion-fueled tourism business, where he could preserve and share the best lessons of his childhood.

Buffalo Child鈥檚 grandparents never got to see him take this leap, so he makes a point to demonstrate his gratitude when he feels their presence the most鈥攂eneath the lights. After each successful aurora hunt, he says, 鈥淕ranny, grandpa, I hope I鈥檓 still doing you proud.鈥

I resonate with this deeply. I didn鈥檛 find the courage to quit my lackluster communications career to become a travel writer until my dad鈥檚 passing in 2018, something that opened my eyes to life鈥檚 fleetingness. This dream job, which has since taken me around the world, was largely inspired by my dad鈥檚 adventurous, no-regrets approach to life. I would give anything to show him how far I鈥檝e come.

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Each time I鈥檓 under an aurora, I feel like I can. I view the lights, particularly the luminous shows that all the forecasts said 蝉丑辞耻濒诲苍鈥檛 have happened, as a wink from him鈥攁 sign that he鈥檚 up there pulling strings. I鈥檝e caught the colors on way too many seemingly hopeless nights.

And thank goodness my dad pulled those strings during my Yellowknife trip, because on that adrenaline-filled hunt, and the successful chase the following evening, Buffalo Child reaffirmed what I knew in my heart to be true: beneath the lights, you鈥檙e never alone.

鈥淢y grandmother said that when you see the aurora dancing fast, it means somebody you knew, or a family member who passed on, is sending back a message of goodwill,鈥 he said. 鈥淚鈥檓 OK over here, you don鈥檛 need to be sad. Keep living a good life, and we鈥檒l meet again one day.鈥

On even the cloudiest nights, Buffalo Child knows how to find brief breaks in the clouds鈥攍ike this one on the author鈥檚 first outing with him.
On even the cloudiest nights, Buffalo Child knows how to find brief breaks in the clouds鈥攍ike this one on the author鈥檚 first outing with him. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

Joe Buffalo Child鈥檚 Best Tips for Northern-Lights Hunting

Most of us didn鈥檛 grow up under the northern lights or in a location where they are prevalent, but aurora activity has spiked in the lower 48 this year, and more opportunities to see them are on the horizon. This is a result of solar maximum, a roughly 11-year peak in activity that鈥檚 now underway and expected to last through at least mid-2025.

I asked Buffalo Child how to successfully catch the show. Read on for his expert advice.

Head to Dark-Sky Destinations at High Latitudes

Man watching beautiful display of Aurora Borealis. Chunks of ice on black sand beach with dramatic sky. Majestic view of nature at night.
The author recommends Iceland as a prime destination for northern-lights hunting. With minimal light pollution and some spectacular scenery, like this black-sand beach, covered with shards of ice, the effects are stunning.听(Photo: SimonSkafar/Getty)

During solar maximum, your odds of catching the spectacle in lower latitudes like Michigan鈥檚 Upper Peninsula are improved, but you still need relatively strong storm activity to see them. In high-latitude locales like Yellowknife, or Fairbanks, Alaska, the northern lights should be active most nights. 鈥淚n 2022, we saw auroras every night for six weeks,鈥 says Buffalo Child.

When deciding between destinations, take weather into consideration. For example, Yellowknife is inland and tends to experience less cloud cover than Iceland鈥攁lso favored by lights hunters鈥攚hich has a moodier coastal climate.

Not sure where to head? I recently wrote about the best places to see the northern lights around the world,听including the places that were most successful for me.

Use the Right Data

Pull up an aurora-chasing app and you鈥檒l inevitably see a Kp rating, which predicts geomagnetic activity on a zero to nine scale (the higher, the better). According to Buffalo Child, 鈥淜p doesn鈥檛 matter.鈥 It鈥檚 rarely an accurate real-time measure of whether you鈥檒l actually see the lights, especially at high latitudes, he told me.

Instead, Buffalo Child suggests downloading the听app to track the speed and density of the solar wind, which carries charged particles from the sun to earth; as speed and density increase, the likelihood of a prominent display does too.

Buffalo Child also suggests learning to read cloud forecasts to understand timing and movement of the clouds; my go-to app for this is.

Visit a Northern-Lights Destination in the Right Season

An aurora spans the sky above the boreal forest outside Yellowknife.
An aurora鈥檚 organic movement, its flow, and its vibrant colors all contribute to the spectacle of the hunt.听(Photo: NZSteve/iStock/Getty)

At high latitudes, you can鈥檛 see the northern lights during the summer, due to the midnight sun. Buffalo Child says that Yellowknife usually has minimal cloud cover in September, August, March, and April鈥攊n that order.

In general, the best seasons for viewing the northern lights are fall through winter, usually September through late March. But reach out to a local tourism bureau for the most accurate information for that area.

Tour with a Local Company

That said, it鈥檚 always better to tap a local expert鈥攅specially someone like Buffalo Child who can predict cloud movements without technology.

鈥淐onnect, engage, and consult with a local鈥攊deally an Indigenous company,鈥 Buffalo Child says. There are countless reasons, but here are three big ones: local guides are well-versed in the roadways, in wildlife risks, and in regional weather patterns.

Plus, supporting Indigenous guides helps people like Buffalo Child keep valuable traditions alive. 鈥淲ith residential schools, we lost a lot of our skills, and we need to try to get those back,鈥 he says. Tourism is an important avenue. 鈥淭his is our land,鈥 he told me, 鈥渁nd through tourism, I show people that we can be ourselves and make a living.鈥

听general aurora-hunting tours with a local Indigenous guide and large groups start at $107. Buffalo Child, however, only leads small group tours, which start at $143. If you鈥檙e looking for a multi-night adventure, book a fall package (from $633) for three nights of guided aurora hunting, plus a sightseeing tour of Yellowknife and Indigenous storytelling at the Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre. Accommodations are not included. I like the centrally located .


Stephanie Vermillion in Iceland
The author in southern Iceland听(Photo: Courtesy Jessica Cohen-Kiraly)

国产吃瓜黑料 and astrotourism writer Stephanie Vermillion has chased the lights around the world for years, from waterfalls in Iceland to remote sheep farms in Greenland. Her book 听is out December 3.

Looking for more great travel intel? 听Or for more inspirational听features like these,听.

Lead Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion