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From left: Suite life; fireside cocktails the Vira Vira way; fly-fishing the Liucura River; goat cheese starts here; house-made ricotta.
From left: Suite life; fireside cocktails the Vira Vira way; fly-fishing the Liucura River; goat cheese starts here; house-made ricotta. (Courtesy of Hacienda Hotel Vira Vira (5))

Don’t Let Volcanoes Scare You Away from This Sprawling Lodge

Spring in South America means snow, whitewater, and adventure everywhere you look

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(Photo: Courtesy of Hacienda Hotel Vira Vira (5))

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Puc贸n, a town of about 22,000 situated halfway down Chile鈥檚 spine, is the Southern Hemisphere鈥檚 Jackson, Wyoming. It鈥檚 perched in the mountains and offers endless outdoor options. The key difference: Puc贸n is surrounded by a group of active volcanoes, the most famous of which is 9,341-foot Villarica, a popular destination for trekking and backcountry skiing that blew its top last March. The eruption momentarily scared off travelers; that, combined with the arrival of shoulder season, makes this the perfect time to head south.

Stay at , a sprawling adventure resort on the banks of the Liucura River. The place was opened by former Swiss banker Michael Paravicini in 2014, when he and his wife decided to switch continents and start over. His first step was to buy riverfront property (smart); his second was to hire head guide Edgardo Songer, who spent 18 years leading trips for the iconic (smarter).

Once you arrive, you鈥檒l have your pick of adventures鈥攅specially in the Chilean spring, from September to November, when there鈥檚 snow up high and roaring water below. Want to work your thighs? There鈥檚 a 12,393-foot volcano to climb up and ski down. Want to catch fish? Pluck a fat brown trout from the Liucura, out the hotel鈥檚 back door. Want more adrenaline? Take a raft down the raging lower Trancura River, where, says Paravicini, 鈥渢he chance you will fall off the boat is really high.鈥 Want to keep it mellow? The hotel operates its own organic farm; help out with the day鈥檚 chores for the full farm-to-table experience. Whether you pitch in or not, you will be treated to multicourse meals sourced from the property, served with Chile鈥檚 justly renowned red wines.听

Plan Your Trip

Access:Fly LAN to Temuco, 90 minutes north of Puc贸n, where Vira Vira staff will pick you up. From $1,650 for three nights, .

Weather Report:听64掳 high, 40掳 low in October

Detour:听Borrow a mountain bike from the lodge for a 20-mile ride through to soak in the 106-degree Geometricas hot springs.听

Indulge:This is red-meat country. Tackle an enormous slab of beef like a real huaso鈥攁 Chilean cowboy鈥攁t in town.

From 国产吃瓜黑料 Magazine, October 2015 Lead Photo: Courtesy of Hacienda Hotel Vira Vira (5)

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