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Torngat Mountains National Park is Canada's newest and鈥攍ike many other parks in the country鈥攑retty remote.
Torngat Mountains National Park is Canada's newest and鈥攍ike many other parks in the country鈥攑retty remote.

Exploring Canada鈥檚 Extremes

Five stunning national parks await beyond North America's 49th parallel. But beware: you'll face shifting ice, mercurial weather, and polar bears if you take this path less traveled.

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Want to get off the tourist-beaten track? Then look no farther than our northern neighbor, where a string of five national parks鈥攚ith shifting ice and steep-walled fjords鈥攑eer over North America鈥檚 49th parallel.

These Canadian preserves stretch from Newfoundland to high above the magnetic North Pole, offering stunning views and incredible access to the wild. But beware: these are regions where wildlife reigns supreme and humans submit to Mother Nature.听

We start with the southernmost of the parks, Gros Morne, and end with Quttinirpaaq, at the tip of the continent to the north. This is what you鈥檒l find if you follow the trail less traveled.

Gros Morne

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| (Douglas Sprott/)

Location: Newfoundland
Miles from the Arctic Circle: Roughly 1,200 (south)
Best Time to Visit: May through October
Getting There: Deer Lake airport is less than an hour's drive. Alternatively, a ferry from Nova Scotia docks at Port aux Basques, about four hours away. Because public transportation near the park is very limited, you'll have to have a vehicle to get around.

Sheldon Stone, of Parks Canada鈥檚 Western Newfoundland and Labrador Field Unit, knows 697-square-mile Gros Morne National Park is different. 鈥淭his is not the landscape that people expect for eastern Canada,鈥 he says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 bigger, wilder, and surprising.鈥 The park was even classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the late 1980s.

Challenge yourself by tackling the 鈥攁n unmarked, multi-day backpacking route听that requires excellent navigation skills and mental toughness. (Be prepared to get cold and wet.) But you鈥檒l be rewarded with breathtaking views of arctic highlands and the park鈥檚 huge lakes.

Must see: Stone suggests the . 鈥淚t鈥檚 a big, barren mountain that looks like it belongs on Mars, but it鈥檚 surrounded by dense, green boreal forest.鈥


Torngat Mountains

| (Parks Canada H Wittenborn)

Location: Newfoundland and Labrador
Miles from the Arctic Circle: Roughly 560 (south)
Best Time to Visit: Mid-July through mid-August
Getting There: Arrive via chartered boat or plane from Goose Bay, Nain, or Kangiqsualujjuaq (which is in Nunavik, northern Quebec).

With no direct roads connecting it to a larger hub, (established in 2008) is also one of the hardest to reach. Gary Baikie, Parks Canada鈥檚 visitor experience and product development manager, has been traveling here since 1981 and argues that the Torngat experience is worth the considerable effort involved in getting there. 鈥淭orngat includes spectacular views of the dramatic fjords and barren mountains that rise thousands of feet out of the Atlantic Ocean,鈥 says Baikie. 鈥淲ildlife, such as polar bears, roam freely on the coastline, and visitors experience an arctic ecosystem that meets a southern one.鈥

Travelers seeking out this remote, above鈥搕ree line beauty should enter the Torngat Mountains with flexible plans and an open mind鈥攚hich means being prepared for mercurial weather. Making the most of the park also means utilizing the local wisdom. 鈥淭he absolute best way to explore the听Torngat听Mountains is with the Inuits from the area,鈥 Baikie explains.

The听Torngat听Mountains Base Camp, which is all-Inuit staffed, provides everything from 鈥淏ear Guards鈥 for warding off those predators during hikes to a memorable hospitality crew. Because the park is home to both black and polar bears, Torngat Mountains National Park requires visitors to register before exploring the region, as well as to take part in a mandatory bear-safety briefing. The park staff strongly recommends hiring an armed Inuit Bear Guard (visitors aren't permitted to carry their own firearms).听


Auyuittuq

| (Mike Beauregard/)

Location: Baffin Island (Nunavut)
Miles from the Arctic Circle: 0 (the Arctic Circle passes through this park)
Best Time to Visit: Early spring or late summer
Getting There: Even though it鈥檚 the most accessible park in the Nunavut territory, traveling to requires serious planning. Depending on ice conditions, the park can be reached over snow or by boat via Pangnirtung Fjord (from Pangnirtung) or North Pangnirtung Fjord (from Qikiqtarjuaq). When ice is breaking up midsummer, the park is inaccessible.

Polar guide听听lives on Baffin Island. Boasting the largest uninterrupted cliff face in the world (Mount Thor) and world-renowned Mount Asgard, this park is a mountaineer鈥檚 dream, she says. Mountains named after Norse gods tower over the valley, and the park offers something for adventurers of every stripe: from hiking up the valley system, to traversing the Penny Ice Cap, to climbing one of the impressive peaks.听

This dynamic place isn鈥檛 quiet, due in large part to its brutal climate. The blustery weather that can torment area visitors has ripped away shelters (McNair-Landry says the gales whipping through the park鈥檚 Windy Lake campsite have snatched away a number of tents over the years), and high glacial melt in midsummer turns brooks into roaring rivers.

You鈥檒l safely enjoy the park鈥檚 incredible beauty if you do your homework ahead of time. That means reading up on local resources, including the park鈥檚 visitor-information package, and considering exploring the region with a guide.听


Sirmilik

| (Mike Beauregard/)

Location: Northern Baffin Island (Nunavut)
Miles from the Arctic Circle: 509 (north)
Fair-Weather Friendly: Early spring or late summer
Getting There: Iqaluit, the hub airport Nunavut, offers flights to the communities of Pond Inlet and Arctic Bay. From there, local outfitters can assist with boat or snowmobile travel into the park.

The fifth-largest island in the world, Baffin has ample room to support two of Canada鈥檚 national parks: Auyuittuq and . In the latter, slow rivers of ice traverse the park鈥檚 8,571 square miles.听

Visitors to Sirmilik are brought into close proximity with polar bears, so sighting one is not uncommon. The park also offers explorers the chance to observe narwhals and seabird colonies in season. Addressing the park鈥檚 diversity of wild inhabitants, Garry Enns, external relations manager in Parks Canada鈥檚 Nunavut field office, has this to say: 鈥淲ildlife-viewing in and along the park鈥檚 edges will give anyone taking the time for this trip an entirely new understanding of what 鈥榳ild鈥 really means.鈥

Because the park is so isolated, each visitor is required to attend an orientation that includes information on polar-bear safety. Here, awareness is key: make sure you review the brochure the park gives out before entering it.


Quttinirpaaq

| (Parks Canada Wayne Lynch)

Location: Northern Baffin Island (Nunavut)
Miles from the Arctic Circle: 1,113 (north)
Fair-Weather Friendly: Late May to mid-August
Getting There: Fly to Resolute Bay from Iqaluit, then charter a flight to the park. If you aren鈥檛 looking for an extended stay, traveling aboard an ice-breaking cruise ship will afford you a taste of the park.

Fittingly, the Inuit name for this means 鈥渙n top of the world.鈥 Here, expect wildlife鈥攊ncluding arctic wolves, hares, and Peary caribou鈥攖o approach closely and without fear of humans.

Harsh weather is another reality. 鈥淰ery few visitors really understand the meaning of 鈥榳eather permitting鈥 until they鈥檝e been caught in a fog that threatens to stay for weeks鈥攎aybe months,鈥 says Enns. 鈥淎nyone planning a trip to this area must allow extra time.鈥澨

Because any emergency help is far away, you have to take the time to slow down. Bring topo maps and a GPS. Decisions that are usually of little note in other areas (traveling when visibility is low) can turn into a life-or-death situation in a place this remote.

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