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Will your first loaf be perfect? Maybe not. But here鈥檚 a secret: even bad homemade bread is better than most store-bought loaves.
Will your first loaf be perfect? Maybe not. But here鈥檚 a secret: even bad homemade bread is better than most store-bought loaves. (Photo: Nadya Spetnitskaya/Unsplash)
DIY

Tips for Baking Homemade Bread

If you haven't ever baked a loaf, or haven't baked one since that time you tried it in college, it鈥檚 time to try again. Here's some expert advice to help you get started.

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Will your first loaf be perfect? Maybe not. But here鈥檚 a secret: even bad homemade bread is better than most store-bought loaves.
(Photo: Nadya Spetnitskaya/Unsplash)

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For as long as I can remember, my mom has made bread by feel. Start with a听little yeast, add some flour and water, maybe throw in the dregs of that morning鈥檚 oatmeal, and, finally, mix.听

As a recipe devotee, rather than baking by feel, I process how I feel by baking.听Somewhere in the quiet calm of reading the instructions, weighing out flour, and听kneading the dough until it just bounces back under my palm, I come to grips with听whatever听I鈥檓 dealing with.

This probably explains why there are two loaves of sourdough听rising on my counter, half a loaf of raisin rye resting听on a cutting board, and eggs set aside for making challah this weekend. It鈥檚 been a week. It鈥檚 been a month. Honestly, it鈥檚 been three years. Bread making has helped me get through it all.听

If you haven鈥檛 ever baked a loaf鈥攐r haven鈥檛 baked one since听you tried it in college鈥攏ow is a great time听to try again.听

Bread takes time and tending, a thing almost all of us suddenly have in bulk. You can mix in the morning, thenlet the dough rise like your blood pressure as you manage your Zoom conference and your rowdy colleagues. Then听deflate the dough after lunch, and give it a second rise. Turn on the oven as you wind down your workday. Pop it in. By dinner听you have a听fresh loaf.

While that鈥檚 a comfort in and of itself, I鈥檝e found that there鈥檚 one other big reason to make bread these days: it鈥檚 impossible to scan Twitter for news (and a thousand bad takes about that news) while your hands are covered in bread dough. Put down your phone and dive in. I promise, you can do this鈥攜ou may even enjoy it.听

To take听you through the process, we enlisted Susan Reid, 鈥檚 senior recipe tester. Reid has worked for the Vermont-based B Corp for 19 years, helping home bakers tackle everything from basic sandwich loaves听to showy braided Christmas breads and buttery brioches. She makes it all day, every day, for a living, and then comes home and bakes some more. If she says you can do this, you should believe her. She鈥檚 coached a million noobs to glutenous success.听Her tips are mostly aimed at yeast-bread recipes, though some of them (like how to measure flour) will make all your baking better.

Get to Know Your Yeast

鈥淧eople are afraid of yeast,鈥 Reid听says, adding that many bakers who love making cookies or cakes just can鈥檛 take the leap on yeast. 鈥淭hey get freaked out because it鈥檚 alive. They鈥檙e worried that they might kill it.鈥 Sure, you might. But yeast is hardier than you think, and the worst that can happen is you have to start over. It鈥檚 really not that big of a deal.听

The key thing you need to know about yeast is that it likes what you like. Most recipes call for lukewarm water. 鈥淚f it feels comfortable for you, it鈥檚 comfortable for them,鈥 she says. Yeast, like us, also loves carbs. Give it warmth, flour, maybe a touch of sugar, and time,and it鈥檒l do exactly what you want.听

My mom always proofed her yeast, a step where you let it bloom in warm water with maybe a pinch of flour or sugar before adding it to your mix. The idea here is that you鈥檒l know the yeast is alive and well before adding it听to the rest of your ingredients. I inherited this practice, but Reid says there鈥檚 no need to do that these days, 鈥渦nless you鈥檙e incredibly neurotic.鈥 (Point taken.) The drying process for yeast has improved dramatically over the years, and it鈥檚 rare to have it dead on arrival. The only exception to this rule would be if you were baking with yeast that鈥檚 mysteriously shown up in the back of a cupboard and you have no clue what decade听it鈥檚听from.听

Finally, try to buy regular听yeast, not the rapid- or quick-rise type. Those 鈥渁re sprinters, not long-distance runners,鈥 Reid听explains: while they work well for a quick pizza dough, which only gets one rise, they tend to tap out during their second rise. The result is a final product that won鈥檛 be as light as it should be.听

Mix with Care

One of the worst things you can do to your bread is add too much flour. Extra flour takes water away from the yeast, which needs moisture to do its leavening thing. You鈥檒l end up with a dense, dry loaf. Unfortunately, most of us at home are not measuring flour the right way. In much of the world and in restaurants, baking is done by weight. You should bake this way, too. But听if all you have are measuring cups, Reid urges you to听听on how to properly measure flour.听

Most bread recipes are written with a flour range, because things like humidity affect how much of it听you鈥檒l ultimately need. Start by adding the lowest amount of flour the recipe suggests, and then mix. If the bread is simply too sticky to work with, add a bit more. What you don鈥檛 want to do is get to the point where your bread feels like a dry rubber band, Reid says. That鈥檚 a sign you鈥檝e used too much flour.听

If this happens, all is not lost! You can add more water to bring things back to level. When you think you鈥檙e done mixing, finger-touch听the top of your dough; it should lift off, with maybe a tiny bit of dough stuck to it, but not so much that your finger is coated in something like pancake batter.

Kneading Is听Optional

You read that right.

Kneading is the process of developing the gluten found in flour. It鈥檚 what gives bread its chewy, sumptuous texture. 鈥淗ere鈥檚 the good news: if you combine water, flour,听and yeast, and you mix it together, the gluten will happen all by itself, it just takes a lot longer,鈥 Reid says. There are many no-knead recipes that call for hardly any kneading at all, because they just let the dough sit for 12 to 24听hours.听

If, however, you want your bread today, you鈥檒l have听to knead it. This is not a violent activity. 鈥淵ou should treat your dough gently. The dough should not have to pay for the therapy you are not paying for,鈥 Reid says. Kneading is essentially a mix of pushing, rolling,听and folding the dough around. (And, yes, she听 for how to do it.) You鈥檒l feel the bread moving from slack to almost elastic to somewhat firm as you work听through the kneading process. Until you get a feel for these changes, aim for six to eight minutes of hand kneading, Reid suggests. And if you have a stand mixer with a dough hook? You鈥檒l never hand-knead again. Turn that puppy on, and let it work for you.听

Wait (and Wait Some More)

Most yeast breads require two rises, and there鈥檚 really not a lot here to screw up. I cover the bowl with a plastic shower cap, which is more or less infinitely reusable. Then I place it somewhere warm and wait.

After the first rise, you鈥檒l give your dough a tiny bit more kneading鈥攋ust a few turns鈥攁nd then shape it into a loaf and plop it into your bread pan. Here鈥檚 a fun fact: most people have five-by-eight-inch loaf pans, but most sandwich-bread recipes are written for 4.5-by-8.5-inch pans, says Reid. If it feels like your loaf is never as tall as it should be, this may be why. Also, your loaf won鈥檛 reach its final height before it goes into the oven. In fact, you don鈥檛 want it to. That final 鈥渙ven spring鈥 makes for a light, soft finished product.

If it doesn鈥檛 seem like your bread is rising, don鈥檛 panic. Give it a bit more time and听it may perk up. If time won鈥檛 fix it, go ahead and finish the recipe off听and bake it anyway. A few times, I鈥檝e had dough that seemed like it was dead resurrect itself in the oven. It happens! And if it鈥檚 a complete disaster? Well, turn that awful loaf into this听, or cut it up and toast it into fresh croutons.听

Finally, Don鈥檛 Sweat It

Bread is more forgiving than you think, Reid says. 鈥淧eople tend to treat recipes like they鈥檙e a zip line over the Grand Canyon鈥攐ne finger off and it鈥檚 all over,鈥 she says. That鈥檚 simply not true. Will your first loaf be perfect? Maybe not. But here鈥檚 a secret: even bad homemade bread is better than most store-bought loaves.听

Four Recipes to Get You Started

If you鈥檙e still too scared to dive into yeast听breads, start with beer bread, which gets its leavening from beer and baking powder.听 recipe, and almost any beer you鈥檝e got on hand will work.听If you鈥檙e ready to play with yeast but not quite ready to knead or shape a loaf, try this听. For crusty-loaf lovers, this no-knead recipe for听听is a great place to start. For those of you wanting to get totally fancy, I regularly bring听 to parties, where it鈥檚 always gobbled up. And if you are specifically interested in sourdough, here is a piece听we ran in听November covering听that type of bread听in detail.听

Lead Photo: Nadya Spetnitskaya/Unsplash

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